Thanks for making these videos. I just made a 1500 mile trek in the rain to get my car. I wanted one that needs tinkering with to learn about these cars. Adding a fuel gauge is my first task. I will be watching many of your videos, I am sure.
Good luck with your project. I highly recommend getting the "Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook" by Les Andrews. Volume 1 is the most important of his three volumes for learning what you need for repairing and maintaining your new car.
James, Thank you for your comments. When I made this video, I had the Model A for less than one month. I have learned quite a bit since then. Happy touring in the A-Bone!
Just put a new brass float on my 1930 Model A today. Don't forget to unhook the main fuse or battery first,you have hot wires right in front of the open gas tank.
Thanks for the reply, I have one to replace on my 30' sports coupe that i'm restoring, I had bought both cork & plastic floats so i'll give the cork a try, those A's are fun to work on I built a 30 p/u from an old AA cab that was a basket case and bought a new p/u bed for it along with rear fenders and running boards, new stuff doesn't like to match up with old without using a drill to re-align holes, I have a 29 fire truck running chassis minus the body i'm working on at the time 2-b, continud
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Only took 10 minutes. Now I have a working gauge on my 29 Model A Tudor. I found that if you just replace the neoprene ring the slip ring is not needed. Thanks again.
A very basic arrangement, part of Henry's philosophy of keeping things on his cars as simple as possible. Of course that line of reasoning couldn't last forever but at that point in time it served the motoring public very well, providing them with an easy to maintain reliable automobile.
@john6218att I heard the same but found that the corks are specially treated to withstand modern fuel. I have had this one in service for two years without any deterioration and the cork I replaced was in great shape after being in the tank for at least twenty years. I replaced the old one because it was improperly installed, not because of any cork problems. Also, the Model As and Model Ts were designed to run on pure ethanol so modern blended fuels should not be any problem at all.
Next time, show close-ups of the parts including the gasket. Then I'd like to see the installation more closely. While I like your comments, it's like watching you do this from across the street at dusk. For the next video, show me how you mount a tire and tube.
The actual job is harder than the video suggests. It can be difficult to remove the old gauge. It's a two person job: one to hold the wrench in position while he sits in the driver's seat and another person , standing outside the car, who moves the pipe extension you will have to put on the end of the rather short handled wrench.
David, I can understand that many can be challenging to remove, especially if they have been in place a long time. Luckily, mine came out with very little effort, and that gauge had been in place since 1953.
How about a video on "Death Wobble" and it's various causes? One of which is bad bushings in the front spring and or the spring perches. Another chronic problem is rebuilding the steering box.
That is a good idea. If I had the "Death Wobble" I would document the troubleshooting and repair. I recommend reading the discussion thread at The Ford Barn www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84418&showall=1 for information about this problem.
Duane, I'm already a member! But I have three Mod. A s all of which have had "Death Wobble" at some time and I'm sure there's someone out there who's got the problem. First let me say that I've had it and the causes are never the same. I've rebuilt all three steering boxes only to find out that wasn't the cause But it was partially. In one car, it was my king pins and later, I discovered it was the bushings in the springs and the perches. I would like to see a video that tells a new comer all of the causes because it can have a bad effect on you when you have something like Death wobble to diagnose and it still isn't right after you've fixed three or four things and it's still there. Terry
Thanks for the comments. Those are great suggestions. I have another gas gauge with all the gaskets so I can shoot a video of all the individual parts. It will make a lot more sense then. I just changed four tires but next time I will film that procedure also.
Michael Noel Hi Michael, the brass slip ring is used with cork gaskets. I used the neoprene and that does not require it. I have had this in place for many years with no leaking. Thanks for your comment.
ahhh..ok Duane thanks...now can you explain the order of assembly when using the cork gasket, please.. i'm doing one tomorrow...31 pickup.. (gasket first,against the tank, then float assembly next, brass ring, then large nut to tighten it all down?)
Apply a small amount of gas resistant sealant on both sides of large cork gasket and place this gasket in the gas tank gauge hole. Insert gauge Assembly in the hole placed against the gasket. Use two thin brass washers as thrust slip washers for the outer ring nut. Apply a thin coat of oli on the two brass washers. Good luck.
The gauge wrench is especially made to fit the retaining nut and star pattern of the inner piece. I got the two piece set at Snyder's and they are inexpensive. I recommend using a specially made tool like that. It will make the job much easier.
@@DuaneHinkle hi,. I have a 1930 and the gas gauge is leaking I need to replace the gasket. Where can I purchase those tools and the gaskets? Thank you Luis@LuisLeatherStuff.com
This isn't a good video as the best repair is to use a "cork" gasket first and then when the big ring nut is put in there is suppose to be a couple of "Brass" rings to make sure that the large nut seats the gas gauge is totally tight and won't leak. The neoprene gaskets as modern fuel will destroy them. The original Ford installation required one brass slip ring. Its been proved that two or more slip rings are much safer to avoid a leak (the original I just pulled off had three brass slip rings. You also don't say anything about the center parts of the fuel gauge. That has a gasket, then glass lens, than another cork gasket, the face plate (shows a line for gas level) and then the inner nut. Tom Endy has a nice article with a diagram, if you search "Tom Endy" you will find a web page with dozens of articles and videos by Tom and look for the one "Gas Gauge Repair"
Thanks for making these videos. I just made a 1500 mile trek in the rain to get my car. I wanted one that needs tinkering with to learn about these cars. Adding a fuel gauge is my first task.
I will be watching many of your videos, I am sure.
Good luck with your project. I highly recommend getting the "Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook" by Les Andrews. Volume 1 is the most important of his three volumes for learning what you need for repairing and maintaining your new car.
Thanks for taking the time to do a little "how to" video. It helps first timers who never have ventured into the gas tank.
James, Thank you for your comments. When I made this video, I had the Model A for less than one month. I have learned quite a bit since then. Happy touring in the A-Bone!
There is a thin metal washer, that goes in, before the outer ring is tightened.😄
Yes, that is a slip washer. I don't use those when I use neoprene washers and have had no problems.
Just put a new brass float on my 1930 Model A today. Don't forget to unhook the main fuse or battery first,you have hot wires right in front of the open gas tank.
Thanks, Steve. That is great advice. I did remove my fuse but forgot to mention it. I have never tried a brass float. How is it working out for you?
Thank you for that tip.
Thanks for the reply, I have one to replace on my 30' sports coupe that i'm restoring, I had bought both cork & plastic floats so i'll give the cork a try, those A's are fun to work on I built a 30 p/u from an old AA cab that was a basket case and bought a new p/u bed for it along with rear fenders and running boards, new stuff doesn't like to match up with old without using a drill to re-align holes, I have a 29 fire truck running chassis minus the body i'm working on at the time 2-b, continud
@509SC The brass washers are used with the cork gasket kits. The neoprene gaskets do not need the brass washers.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Only took 10 minutes. Now I have a working gauge on my 29 Model A Tudor. I found that if you just replace the neoprene ring the slip ring is not needed. Thanks again.
Thanks, Gary. I found that out the second time I replaced the cork.
A very basic arrangement, part of Henry's philosophy of keeping things on his cars as simple as possible. Of course that line of reasoning couldn't last forever but at that point in time it served the motoring public very well, providing them with an easy to maintain reliable automobile.
@john6218att I heard the same but found that the corks are specially treated to withstand modern fuel. I have had this one in service for two years without any deterioration and the cork I replaced was in great shape after being in the tank for at least twenty years. I replaced the old one because it was improperly installed, not because of any cork problems.
Also, the Model As and Model Ts were designed to run on pure ethanol so modern blended fuels should not be any problem at all.
Thanks Duane. This was a big help in replacing my '28 gas gauge.
Thanks for the feedback.
it helps to apply a small amount of oil to the neoprene seal/washer before installing
That is a great tip. Thanks.
Thanks for the help - how about a video on adjusting the idle on my '30 A?
Next time, show close-ups of the parts including the gasket. Then I'd like to see the installation more closely. While I like your comments, it's like watching you do this from across the street at dusk. For the next video, show me how you mount a tire and tube.
Thanks you so much Duane
You are very welcome
The actual job is harder than the video suggests. It can be difficult to remove the old gauge. It's a two person job: one to hold the wrench in position while he sits in the driver's seat and another person , standing outside the car, who moves the pipe extension you will have to put on the end of the rather short handled wrench.
David, I can understand that many can be challenging to remove, especially if they have been in place a long time. Luckily, mine came out with very little effort, and that gauge had been in place since 1953.
@@DuaneHinkle I suspect mine was there since 1931. . I was glad to have an able helper on this project. There was no trace of the old float .
How about a video on "Death Wobble" and it's various causes? One of which is bad bushings in the front spring and or the spring perches. Another chronic problem is rebuilding the steering box.
That is a good idea. If I had the "Death Wobble" I would document the troubleshooting and repair. I recommend reading the discussion thread at The Ford Barn www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84418&showall=1 for information about this problem.
Duane, I'm already a member! But I have three Mod. A s all of which have had "Death Wobble" at some time and I'm sure there's someone out there who's got the problem. First let me say that I've had it and the causes are never the same. I've rebuilt all three steering boxes only to find out that wasn't the cause But it was partially. In one car, it was my king pins and later, I discovered it was the bushings in the springs and the perches. I would like to see a video that tells a new comer all of the causes because it can have a bad effect on you when you have something like Death wobble to diagnose and it still isn't right after you've fixed three or four things and it's still there.
Terry
Thanks for the comments. Those are great suggestions. I have another gas gauge with all the gaskets so I can shoot a video of all the individual parts. It will make a lot more sense then.
I just changed four tires but next time I will film that procedure also.
Excellent video, thanks!
Great vid, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
I've heard different opinions about using cork vrs a solid plastic float that won't decompose with todays gas.
I replaced mine a second time with cork but next time I'll use neoprene. That should last longer than four years.
NIce video...what about the brass slip ring? I didn't see that anywhere.
Michael Noel Hi Michael, the brass slip ring is used with cork gaskets. I used the neoprene and that does not require it. I have had this in place for many years with no leaking. Thanks for your comment.
ahhh..ok Duane thanks...now can you explain the order of assembly when using the cork gasket, please.. i'm doing one tomorrow...31 pickup.. (gasket first,against the tank, then float assembly next, brass ring, then large nut to tighten it all down?)
Apply a small amount of gas resistant sealant on both sides of large cork gasket and place this gasket in the gas tank gauge hole. Insert gauge Assembly in the hole placed against the gasket. Use two thin brass washers as thrust slip washers for the outer ring nut. Apply a thin coat of oli on the two brass washers. Good luck.
hi nice video...will this gauge work on any gas tank,,,,i need one for my 51 fordf1
very good video. my ford 1930 fordor briggs body is leaking...
what happened to the brass washers?
Where do I get a replacement gage and the tools to do the job?
www.macsautoparts.com/ is a good source. They have the entire kit including gaskets and they sell the special wrench and star tool needed.
My gauge will not come out of the tank it's loose and moves around but will not come out
Hi Terry, can you look down the gas filler hole to see what the obstruction is?
What size is the wrench to tighten the nut ? Is it home made ??
The gauge wrench is especially made to fit the retaining nut and star pattern of the inner piece. I got the two piece set at Snyder's and they are inexpensive. I recommend using a specially made tool like that. It will make the job much easier.
@@DuaneHinkle hi,. I have a 1930 and the gas gauge is leaking I need to replace the gasket. Where can I purchase those tools and the gaskets?
Thank you
Luis@LuisLeatherStuff.com
Its hard to see from the back seat!!?
When I replace it next time, I'll get a closer, more detailed look at how things go together.
This isn't a good video as the best repair is to use a "cork" gasket first and then when the big ring nut is put in there is suppose to be a couple of "Brass" rings to make sure that the large nut seats the gas gauge is totally tight and won't leak. The neoprene gaskets as modern fuel will destroy them. The original Ford installation required one brass slip ring. Its been proved that two or more slip rings are much safer to avoid a leak (the original I just pulled off had three brass slip rings. You also don't say anything about the center parts of the fuel gauge. That has a gasket, then glass lens, than another cork gasket, the face plate (shows a line for gas level) and then the inner nut. Tom Endy has a nice article with a diagram, if you search "Tom Endy" you will find a web page with dozens of articles and videos by Tom and look for the one "Gas Gauge Repair"