Those headlamps are a big step up. Volvo p1 headlamps have to be the easiest to remove in all of the automotive world. Refurbishment of my headlamps was my first diy success. I used ceramic coating at the end....came out very nice.
That sounds like an issue with the bulb being near the end of it's life. Is it always the same side that goes out? Try swapping the bulbs and see if the problem moves. When HID bulbs begin to die, they'll randomly go out for months before they completely fail to come on.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken that's my conclusion, I thought for the longest time that I had a ballast problem since the bulbs aren't that old. I swapped the igniters last week, the bulb that keeps turning off stayed lit up longer but still turned off, replaced the ballast yesterday and there is no change at all. So it's most likely the bulb
Hi Michael, as always thanks for the great Volvo content. I still have yet to upgrade to porsche but have acquired a 2nd s40 with bad motor. Is there anything in particular I should save from the bad engine car before it goes to the scrapyard? Both are 2.4i but the junk one has heated seats and upgraded stereo..
It's worth saving anything that has value to you. Some parts might be worth selling on ebay to offset your costs. You may also want to keep some of the sensors and things for quick swapping and diagnostics in case anything ever goes wrong with your car.
I would start with 610 transferred to 1200 or 1500, with a rubbing you should not have to do much work after using 1500, caution do not stay on the one part for too hard or too long you will get friction burn a squirter of water whilst rubbing in the compound
This applies to all P1 Volvos. Many people with S40s and V50s have upgraded to the Morimoto projectors and the process is the exact same. If you have factory bixenon, you can get the same projectors that I have.
Vida is not needed, just a wrench. ruclips.net/video/Xgx5OrwnFxU/видео.html Factory xenon have a sensor that adjusts self leveling, but you can still manually adjust the default level. Just be certain that your car is sitting on level ground when making the adjustments. I usually leave my headlights plugged in with the car running when I aim the lights; only pulling the lights out far enough to make my adjustments before putting them back into place to check the level.
Hey man! First of love your content, i have a V50 2.0d and your vids has helpt alot :D i do have a question tho, where did you buy the fender flares on the c30? And how much wider does it get with them?
I think they were 70mm, but from where they mount on the body of the car, it only extends about 35mm further than the stock. More info here: ruclips.net/video/mOktQemekws/видео.html
Here is a DIY: ruclips.net/video/zYIsw5aF2J4/видео.html But I highly suggest going with the Morimoto HID kit and not ProTuning. I swapped out the ProTuning kit for MoriMoto's after about a year and was super pleased with the better light output.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken I've heard the morimoto is one of the best on the market, I currently have a second set of assemblies and I'm gonna do some of the mods you did on your various P1 projects. Thanks for the reply!
Among the reasons I subscribe to your channel is your knowledge and explanations, and your encouragement to DIY. Here's an issue I'm having. I saw an IPD video on You Tube about their turbo blocking plate, part# 121388. The video explains how it works, the benefits, and I'm all in to upgrade. The video further states that there are two different turbos for my car, and one is a Mitsubishi model. I sent an email to IPD with my car's vitals to identify which turbo I have two days ago....no response, not even an acknowledgement. Would you know how I can find out??
There is only one turbo option available for the gasoline P1 Volvos, and that is the Mitsubishi K04. iPd may have been referencing the K16, which is a direct bolt on upgrade, but this is not a factory option. Both the K04 and K16 use the same compressor bypass valve, which is why their block off plate would be listed as available for both turbos. Now that being said, the CBV is there to recirculate the compressed air when the throttle body closes, preventing that air from flowing back upstream into the turbo or building to the point that it can pop a hose clamp off. Popping hose clamps is really only a concern on high boosted cars. There are some CBV options that will vent to the atmosphere rather than recirculate. The block off plate should only be considered an option when you are choosing to run a separate blow off valve or recirculation valve. You do not want to completely block it off without giving that air somewhere else to go. This can lead to damage within the turbine itself, which is very common with Toyotas, Subarus, Porsches, and other turbo cars. Some people have still installed a block off plate and will argue that it does not cause any damage because every time you lift off the throttle, there is a brief moment where air can flow upstream into the turbo. To me, it has not been proven long term on these cars and is not worth the risk to find out. If you're concerned that the CBV is worn or the spring is so weak that it does not close fast enough, there are many upgraded CBV options that you can get for these cars (video on that coming eventually). Yes, you will have quicker throttle response when changing gears if you did not have a CBV, ideal for building a drag car that sees these short spurts of hard acceleration. But this is not something I would encourage for a track car or a daily driver.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Reading this gave me a lot more insight than the ipd video did. I better understand how the entire turbo system works. What I was attempting to do was have less turbo lag, better and smoother rpm and acceleration management. So thankful that I asked you about it first. Probably saved me cash, engine problems AND heartache. Thanks
![How To Install Retrofit Projectors With Bi-Xenon [10 Steps]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aesyBC6sSjY/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm super happy to have won the giveaway, thanks!
Those headlamps are a big step up. Volvo p1 headlamps have to be the easiest to remove in all of the automotive world. Refurbishment of my headlamps was my first diy success. I used ceramic coating at the end....came out very nice.
I have needed a headlight upgrade for awhile. Thanks bud.
Nice one! I have my 5.0s ready to install on the v50. This guide came out right when I needed it.
lately I have been appreciating your videos wayyy more. your content is top notch on these c30s
Keep up with the good volvo content!
Is it possible to go from the Halogen headlight assembly to the bi-xenon headlight assembly by simply swapping the headlight assemblies?
Is it possible to just upgrade my projectors (but keep the halogens)?
Is it swappable?
Do the facelift c30 projectors come out of the back or does headlight need splitting for this
Can you "talk" about repair of door (gate ramp)?[hinge]
Wow looks clean! Great job!!
Looks very involved
@michael ever had trouble with your HID lights where both would light up fine but then one would turn off after a couple minutes?
That sounds like an issue with the bulb being near the end of it's life. Is it always the same side that goes out? Try swapping the bulbs and see if the problem moves. When HID bulbs begin to die, they'll randomly go out for months before they completely fail to come on.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken that's my conclusion, I thought for the longest time that I had a ballast problem since the bulbs aren't that old. I swapped the igniters last week, the bulb that keeps turning off stayed lit up longer but still turned off, replaced the ballast yesterday and there is no change at all. So it's most likely the bulb
Looking sweet!
Nice, good and interesting video. Tnx a lot!
Hello, do you by any chance have the (cutout) measurements of the Bosch adapter plate?
Hi Michael, as always thanks for the great Volvo content. I still have yet to upgrade to porsche but have acquired a 2nd s40 with bad motor. Is there anything in particular I should save from the bad engine car before it goes to the scrapyard? Both are 2.4i but the junk one has heated seats and upgraded stereo..
It's worth saving anything that has value to you. Some parts might be worth selling on ebay to offset your costs. You may also want to keep some of the sensors and things for quick swapping and diagnostics in case anything ever goes wrong with your car.
I would start with 610 transferred to 1200 or 1500, with a rubbing you should not have to do much work after using 1500, caution do not stay on the one part for too hard or too long you will get friction burn a squirter of water whilst rubbing in the compound
Would this pass the UK Mot test?
I don't know. But check Morimoto's website to see if their kits would comply. Their kits are legal in North America.
Aw man, I was soooo excited, but alas, this doesn't apply to my 05' S40t5....dang!
This applies to all P1 Volvos. Many people with S40s and V50s have upgraded to the Morimoto projectors and the process is the exact same. If you have factory bixenon, you can get the same projectors that I have.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken That's my issue....no factory xenon to begin with. Oh well, can't have it all.
Do you know how to aim the factory xenons? Is vida necessary?
Vida is not needed, just a wrench. ruclips.net/video/Xgx5OrwnFxU/видео.html
Factory xenon have a sensor that adjusts self leveling, but you can still manually adjust the default level. Just be certain that your car is sitting on level ground when making the adjustments. I usually leave my headlights plugged in with the car running when I aim the lights; only pulling the lights out far enough to make my adjustments before putting them back into place to check the level.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Thank you.
Bbbbbut, there's no spot for halos with these projectors is there? 😢
These only replace the stock projectors. You can still put halos behind the ring that surrounds the projector lens.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken ooooh, and re use the oem plastic price that surrounds the projector? Didn't think it'd still fit
@@troylittle5715 Yep, that is what most people have done to retain a clean OEM appearance for when the halos are off.
Hey man! First of love your content, i have a V50 2.0d and your vids has helpt alot :D i do have a question tho, where did you buy the fender flares on the c30? And how much wider does it get with them?
I think they were 70mm, but from where they mount on the body of the car, it only extends about 35mm further than the stock. More info here: ruclips.net/video/mOktQemekws/видео.html
Michael, do you have any advice retrofitting HIDs into halogen P1's?
Here is a DIY: ruclips.net/video/zYIsw5aF2J4/видео.html
But I highly suggest going with the Morimoto HID kit and not ProTuning. I swapped out the ProTuning kit for MoriMoto's after about a year and was super pleased with the better light output.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken I've heard the morimoto is one of the best on the market, I currently have a second set of assemblies and I'm gonna do some of the mods you did on your various P1 projects. Thanks for the reply!
Among the reasons I subscribe to your channel is your knowledge and explanations, and your encouragement to DIY. Here's an issue I'm having. I saw an IPD video on You Tube about their turbo blocking plate, part# 121388. The video explains how it works, the benefits, and I'm all in to upgrade. The video further states that there are two different turbos for my car, and one is a Mitsubishi model. I sent an email to IPD with my car's vitals to identify which turbo I have two days ago....no response, not even an acknowledgement. Would you know how I can find out??
There is only one turbo option available for the gasoline P1 Volvos, and that is the Mitsubishi K04. iPd may have been referencing the K16, which is a direct bolt on upgrade, but this is not a factory option. Both the K04 and K16 use the same compressor bypass valve, which is why their block off plate would be listed as available for both turbos.
Now that being said, the CBV is there to recirculate the compressed air when the throttle body closes, preventing that air from flowing back upstream into the turbo or building to the point that it can pop a hose clamp off. Popping hose clamps is really only a concern on high boosted cars. There are some CBV options that will vent to the atmosphere rather than recirculate. The block off plate should only be considered an option when you are choosing to run a separate blow off valve or recirculation valve. You do not want to completely block it off without giving that air somewhere else to go. This can lead to damage within the turbine itself, which is very common with Toyotas, Subarus, Porsches, and other turbo cars. Some people have still installed a block off plate and will argue that it does not cause any damage because every time you lift off the throttle, there is a brief moment where air can flow upstream into the turbo. To me, it has not been proven long term on these cars and is not worth the risk to find out. If you're concerned that the CBV is worn or the spring is so weak that it does not close fast enough, there are many upgraded CBV options that you can get for these cars (video on that coming eventually). Yes, you will have quicker throttle response when changing gears if you did not have a CBV, ideal for building a drag car that sees these short spurts of hard acceleration. But this is not something I would encourage for a track car or a daily driver.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Reading this gave me a lot more insight than the ipd video did. I better understand how the entire turbo system works. What I was attempting to do was have less turbo lag, better and smoother rpm and acceleration management. So thankful that I asked you about it first. Probably saved me cash, engine problems AND heartache. Thanks
Cool!!!!!!!!!!