Nice video! We totally agree that track time is extremely important. It's also very interesting to take your stock car to the track to benchmark it before doing any mods, that way you can see exactly where you made improvements.
I like your videos man, I got a S60 2.4T, S40 2.4i, and a S40 T5 AWD. These cars are addicting, back in HS I was into VW's with my GTi, now I guess its Volvo's. Seeing how many you have and had makes me feel better. Keep up the good work!
Nice simple video, very easy what you can do with these cool cars. I had a C30 back in 2009 and had a crash, now I want one again for tuning and upgrading. Thanks for the Tips
I have a S40 T5 and we did exactly all of that you suggested before i actually saw your video, and you are absolutely correct, wow i was so imprest with the difference, my Vollie is a monster now compared to stock.
Just bought an S40 2.4i, was looking for a T5 for a good while now but got an insanely good deal on the 2.4i so... oh well. honestly, still feels PLENTY powerful, fun to drive, gets way better fuel economy than i expected and i really like the look of it as well. And i mean, cant really go wrong with a 5 banger. i wanna keep it mostly stock in terms of engine, maybe get an intake/exhaust setup and a tune-up, appearently you can get around the 200 hp mark with that and a tune which seems worth it to me. any recommendations in terms of exhausts? Im hoping to get some more sound and better flow, i dont want it to scream to insanity or anything like that tho. preferably a catback because, legality and also, not too loud. Anyway, thanks a lot for this video-series, i feel like the P1 Volvos are kind of underappreciated or rather, overshadowed by the 850´s and V70´s. Great to see some love and help for them.
Do88 makes a great front mount intercooler. I would definitely keep the stock intake box for the coldest air possible. The stock radiator is usually perfectly sufficient for most street builds. You may want to consider an external oil cooler if things get really hot.
What’s the best high temp brake fluid for my Volvo C30? Upgraded the front brake calipers and Brembo rotors/brakes all around, and stainless steel brake lines.
@@markveith9468 Absolutely. Unlike brake pads, where track compounds are not very good on the street, racing DOT4 brake fluid is perfectly acceptable in a street car. These cars require DOT4 fluid. The only main difference between when Volvo sells and the Motul RBF660 is that the Motul fluid has a much higher boiling point.
I like that my 2009 C30 R is kind of a "sleeper" car. Nobody expects these things to be as quick as they are. However, I want it faster. As you stated, my first mod will be a tune, I'm thinking the Polestar Optimization simply because the car was designed and built with this in mind. But what are your thoughts? My end goal is to be in the 300ish hp range.
Don't waste your money on Polestar. It's only for stock parts, which will only ever get you to 230ish whp. If you want 300hp, you need bolt ons and a real tune, which would make Polestar a $1k waste of money. If you want more power before the bolt ons, pick a tuner and have them write you a Stage 1 tune that will out perform Polestar for a fraction of the cost.
TY. Follow-up question. I'm not super savvy when it comes to working on vehicles. I took your advice, reached out to a local shop. I was told that they can do the bolt-ons but that Hilton Tuning (hiltontuning.com) will write the tune and then submit it to my local shop. Does that sound right to you? I'm in Denver and I'd really like to find an all-in-one type shop. Berg Performance does everything, but only for Porsche, Audi, VW. Any help is appreciated.
@@kellyshelton8733 Hilton tunes are loaded via the Dice unit. This could be done on your own, or a shop could do it. I would suggest handling the tuning yourself, as it's as simple as connecting your computer to a car and waiting on the software to download. This also leaves you in charge of your tune file, in the event that you ever need to go back to stock or upgrade the tune. A friend of mine owns a shop just north of Denver. He is extremely knowledgeable on P1 Volvos, has done an AWD and K16 swap on his own car, and completed an AWD swap and manual swap on another friend's car. I could not recommend a better shop to take your car to, if you're in the Denver area. Fairlane Auto Repair, ask for James. www.fairlaneautorepair.com
So what suggestions do you have on a 2009 c 70 and can you give me a list of brands as well since I have learned some aftermarket items don’t last as long as the manufacturer parts
This list remains the same for the C70. 1. I like the Elevate rear sway bar. 2. Genuine efocus torque mount is good, but as are the whiteline and powerflex inserts for the stock mount. 3. Wheels and tires are your own preference. 4. Suspension depends on what you want. KW make great coilovers. But adjustable Bilstein shocks/struts with lowering springs are a nice setup too. 5. Most C70s already have the 320mm front brakes. So just upgrade the pads and fluid, unless you want a big brake kit. 6. Do88 and Snabb both have good intake pipes that work well with the factory air box. 7. Any intercooler upgrade is better than stock. Do88 makes the best available option. 8. The Elevate GT exhaust (for the C30) is one of the best exhaust options. Elevate's 3" is also nice, but can be a bit too loud for some people. 9. Eurosport Tuning and Viva have some good down pipe options with cats. If you're going catless, any cheap downpipe will work so long as the flex pipes are quality. 10. Avoid Elevate and Shark for tuning. I can only recommend Hilton.
Great content on this channel! I find a lot of your videos useful for maintaining and upgrading my 07 C30. I just got a set of Odysseus Volvo wheels from a P3 S80. They are 18x8 with 55mm offset. I see a lot of confusing info on the forums about the tire size I should go with. 225,235 or 245/40R18... What do you think? Thanks for the input!
Stock tire size is 215/45/18. My personal preference is 235/40/18. This is very close to the stock diameter tire, so no major error with the speedometer. 235 also sits nice and square on an 8" wide wheel with a good beefy sidewall. 245 gets a little too wide and may rub on some things. 225 does not provide sufficient sidewall flex on an 8" wide wheel. While 225 is great if you keep with a 7.5" wide wheel, 235 is my recommendation. With a 55mm offset, depending on your ride height, you may need to consider small spacers to prevent a 235 tire from rubbing the inside of the wheel wells at full steering lock.
On which car? The S40, everything was custom. The V50 had the factory dynamic trim. The C30 had the factory V2.0/R design trim. Then I went a bit crazier with the C30. ruclips.net/video/mOktQemekws/видео.html
#2. I have the 5-speed 2.4i, is there a torque mount option that will *reduce* vibration and road noise? Would a new OEM be better choice? #10. Does the polestar tune have adverse effects on mpg, engine wear, or engine life? Are you swapping performance for longevity? As always thanks for the awesome content!
Any of these aftermarket torque mounts will improve driving feel from a performance standpoint, but add noise, vibration, and harshness. If you want smooth, stock is your best option. The Polestar tune is a factory option and does not hurt the car (Volvo wouldn't have offered a factory option and still honored the warranty if it did). Most basic Stage 1 tunes from aftermarket tuners are perfectly safe as well. Because tunes are optimizing your car for a certain octane rating, you'll generally see improved fuel economy as the car doesn't have to dial itself back for unknown or varying grades of fuel. For standard commuting, a lot of people find that because the car gets up to speed a little bit faster with minimal effort, they are accelerating less aggressively and for a shorter period of time, ultimately saving fuel. But from an enthusiast standpoint, a tune makes it harder to have self control and not floor the car every chance you get. Even with all the bolt ons and a more aggressive tune, you're really not adding any more to engine wear or decreasing engine life until you start messing with internals and a bigger turbo. But Polestar is only available for the T5. While some aftermarket tuners do offer a tune for the 2.4i, the 2.4i is already near maxed out compared to Volvo's 2.4. At that point, it's not worth spending $600+ for another 5-10hp at the crank.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken dude you are the man. Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. I started following you on YT and IG but if there's any other way I can support your engagement lmk, you are helping keep the P1 community alive. (P.S. I know you published a bit on FCP euro, do you have a blog or other resources/ forums you can recommend for me to learn on my own? I want to be respectful of your time)
@@mattybrews Liking, commenting, and subscribing is the best way to give back! I recently started selling a Porsche shirt on my RUclips merch store. There will be some Volvo shirts in the future. Buying a shirt is also a way to support the channel. SwedeSpeed.com is the best forum for all things P1 Volvos. It's not as active as it was back when the cars were new, but we compiled a valuable library for DIY projects. www.swedespeed.com/forums/s40-v50-2005-2012.54/ C30Crew.com is another forum for the C30, which has a lot of relevant content for all P1 Volvos. That forum is a bit of a ghost town, but there are cool builds to look up if you need inspiration.
Want to highlight that bigger brake rotors do not increase braking performance. You might get a slightly better heat dispersion but other than that it is not a worthwhile upgrade if it is stopping power you’re after.
The 2004 V40 is a Nedcar and not a P1. I don't have any recommendations for your platform, but iPd, Eurosport tuning, and Viva Performance and great places to start.
Brembo makes rotors in all sizes. If you're asking if the 300mm rotors will fit the 320mm calipers, then no. You need rotors that fit your brake setup.
What kind of power and response does those engine mods increase, both in terms of daily driving experience and overall acceleration? Not looking to build a drag racer, but something to have fun and blast around town with.
With the items in the video, you'll be around 250-260whp, about 330ftlbs to the wheels, and the car should do 0-60 in the low 5 second range. Still very daily drivable, but with the power there when you want it.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken hell yeah! I’m big on torque. I had a 2005 SRT-4 stage 2 turbo upgrade which made that much power and it was a blast to drive. I like the C30’s two door hatch look over the sedan though. I think people over look usuable mid-range torque, but that’s what you feel day in day out when going about your business. I test drive a 2015 Focus RS recently and was blown away by how much fun it was to drive! Looking forward to test driving the 2009 C30 /stick shift I am interested in. Thanks for the tips!
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken hell yeah! I’m big on torque. I had a 2005 SRT-4 stage 2 turbo upgrade which made that much power and it was a blast to drive. I like the C30’s two door hatch look over the sedan though. I think people over look usuable mid-range torque, but that’s what you feel day in day out when going about your business. I test drive a 2015 Focus RS recently and was blown away by how much fun it was to drive! Looking forward to test driving the 2009 C30 /stick shift I am interested in. Thanks for the tips!
Hi, you mention better wheels and tyres, what size? I just picked up a V50 T5 FWD and comes with as standard 205/50/17. Pretty narrow to be honest. What’s your recommendation?
I have found 235/40/18 to sit pretty square on an 8" wheel with minimal speedometer error. 225 can be a little stretched on an 8" wide wheel, which greatly hinders performance. As for wheel size, both 18" and 17" are a good size. 17s will be more comfortable and sometimes lighter, but 18s allow for a stiffer tire sidewall and good traction. Ultimately, this decision is up to you. But from a performance standpoint, 19s are too big and heavy, while 16s are too small and sometimes have fitment issues with 320mm calipers.
Buying a 2008 c30 this week stoked to do some stuff to it... I got 5k to spend on it... wondering what would be best for speed and cosmetics.. dm me if you have any suggestions.. I’ll send you a pic of the car! Appreciate any help from car enthusiasts!
I'm not sure... There might be some tuning options available. But for anything less than the T5, the best thing you can do is upgrade the suspension and simply enjoy a good handling car.
Are parts like exhaust, intercooler, intake, downpipe, brake, suspensions , sway bars all interchangeable across P1 volvos? Particularly asking whether they'd fit a C30
Yes, all P1s are essentially the same. The only difference will be the exhaust system (tip placement varies between models), the downpipe is different between FWD and AWD, and the rear suspension components are different between FWD and AWD models.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken yep, well, stock wheels on S40 and C30 are 7" wide with MONSTROUS offsets, like ET52. I couldn't really find an 8" wide wheel with bigger than ET46 offset, and this is what puzzles me.
I bought OEM rotors off FCP Euro for the lifetime warranty. Slotted are nice. I don't like drilled, they make a lot of noise and are more prone to cracking. I've seen people fail track inspection with lightly used drilled rotors.
@@markveith9468 I had drilled rotors on my C30 when it was just a daily and I hated it. Constant clicking noise of air being pushed through the holes every time it passed through the calipers. They look cool and are a bit better in the rain, but I've come to prefer slotted. That's just my preference though!
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken which brand 320mm should I go with? I might do slotted then, I have stock sizes Brembos drilled all around but they don’t make the whooshing sound at all lol . But they aren’t cutting it with the power I threw at the c30 … Hilton tune stage 2 and downpipe… many other mods
@@markveith9468 Anything FCP Euro sells will be tested and proven. I've bee a fan of StopTech and Brembo in the past. I've also used Zimmerman and been pleased.
For the front, you need the calipers with the caliper brackets, the larger rotors, and you may want to get the larger dust shields or be prepared to bend your current dust shields for fitment. There is no plug and play 320mm rear upgrade for these cars. My setup is custom. Many people opt for a larger Mazda rear brake kit.
Definitely upgrade the suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires. But when it comes to the bolt on engine parts, an intake and exhaust and purely just for sound on the N/A motors. Volvo did a pretty good job of nearly maxing them out for performance.
Stupide question, I have a Volvo s60R 2004, my head gasket is blown and I’ve got a misfire this week. Can I do the head gasket by myself? I would like to keep my car the longest as possible.
That's entirely dependent upon your skill level, tools, and how long you can go without a car. Head gaskets aren't too complicated on Volvos, but there's a lot to disconnect in the process. You'll want a proper set of cam locks and a locking pin to hold the engine in top dead center. You'll need to be comfortable with removing the timing belt and associated components, as messing these up could immediately destroy engine internals. It's a good time to replace a bunch of parts while everything is apart. There's some good write ups online, so familiarize yourself with the process, buy the parts and tools you need, and then take the project on! Considering that it's already "broken" it can't get too much more broken, so it's a good opportunity to learn.
I have a Volvo S40 1.8 2004 I have done the glove test and it's blowing the glove up. I've been told that it's my breather box that is clogged up. Is this a difficult job to replace the breather box. Seen as we are on lockdown in the UK I thought maybe it's a job that I could do. If i can get the parts.
I'm not sure how the job is on the 1.8. But on the T5, it's fairly easy and can be completed in about 30 minutes once the intake box is out of the way.
Appreciate the video, but we needs EXAMPLES of the recommended parts to purchase for the upgrades! Makes, models, and/or part numbers, please! By the way, are these parts interchangeable for the models in the description? Looking for '09 C70 upgrade recommendations! Thank You!!!
I post regular videos about my C30 where I cover the specific parts, why I have what I have, and what I would choose if I were building the car again today. ruclips.net/p/PL-_SgeO7iTPMin0JZaIs_XtexjctjULP8 Yes, these parts are interchangeable for all P1 Volvos. C30, P1 C70, P1 S40, and V50. My same list applies for all of them.
my little 06 s40 with stock suspension and conti tires handles great on tight mountain roads! more top end hp to actually be able to use its 7k redline would be nice though, its pretty flat after 5k
This is where the old non cvvt white blocks were great. A little cam timing adjustment shifts the power up and pulls to redline. Granted the bigger turbo helps to lol. A tune would greatly improve in your situation. Or a downpipe if you already have the tune. They get choked up high rpm. But with a tune an increase in boost pressure you won't need above 5k. These cars make tq down low. That's where your power Is. "Hp sells cars, tq wins races". -Carol Shelby-
Avoid Elevate and Shark for a tune. Both have terrible tuning support and customer service. I only recommend Hilton now. You should already be running premium fuel!!! Especially on a turbo cars like these, running anything less can result in engine knock and additional wear. Not to mention, it has been tested and proven that these cars get better fuel economy with 91+ octane, thus being more economical to drive with the more expensive fuel. The cars are detuned so that you can run regular fuel if needed, but this should not be common practice.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken I second this as I have a Hilton Stage 2+ tune....however that was done in 2022. As of 2023 a lot of people (including myself, a paid customer) are having a lot of trouble getting any responses from Hilton. I've inquired to Hilton about some adjustments to my tune and have never heard back, and I'm not the only one. So beware. The tune itself was great, but the customer service has not been.
is anybody in a community for building volvos? I don’t understand why it’s so hard to find aftermarket parts for these cars and/or forums for building these cars.
What is a good, affordable suspension set up for casual driving and making the car just look better. I'm considering just slapping lowering springs on ny S40(AWD) and calling it a day but I want to weight my options
Just adding lowering springs is a great way to improve handling and appearance, though many consider lowering springs to still sit too high, especially on AWD. Depending on the age of your car, you may also need to replace the shocks and struts when lowering. I would suggest going with coilovers, as this will give you the adjustability to set whatever height you want. BC makes coilovers for AWD cars that seem to have fairly good reviews among the P1 Volvo community. KW also makes a great coilover option, but these can be a lot more costly (though worth it).
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Thank you! I'll probably try out some lowering springs since I just want my S40 to sit a little lower since its my daily. If I decide I don't like it I can always save up for some coils. Do you recommend any specific brand for lowering springs?
@@TheKreattion AWD lowering spring options are fairly limited. Elevate, Eibach, H&R, or any other common brand springs would be good. They're all pretty much the same and offer the same drop and spring rates.
So what will catless DP and elevate CBE with full turbo front intake and 93 tune do maybe intercooler later when i do meth injection so what hp would it put me at 300-330hp?
Do not wait on the intercooler, it's an absolute must when going for anything more than a Stage 1 tune (which you'll be doing if you're upgrading the downpipe). These cars can suffer from heat soak on even the stock tune. Those parts will give you the foundation for a "Stage 3" tune and will put you around the 250-260whp mark.
A better flowing intake would require less throttle input to achieve the same acceleration and performance, theoretically allowing you to improve fuel economy. However, if you intend to drive the exact same and install a better flowing intake, then you would be introducing more air into the engine and this would be balanced out with more fuel, therefore improving the performance but hindering the fuel economy.
I have a 2012 C70 D3. A heavy car. When suspension gives up I will replace with aftermarket as standard seems to fail. Can u recommend ?. Also can u recommend a drop in panel filter upgrade? K&n ?
KW makes a great set of coilovers for these cars. There are some other good coilovers and lowering spring options. But the main thing is to make sure you get a suspension setup that allows for adjustable damping. I'm not sure what drop in panel filter options there are for the D3. K&N is good if you're okay with the oiled filter. iPd also has a drop in filter option that I know is well reviewed and compatible with the T5.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken That’s great thanks Will check out kw We use our c70 for holidays so need g stiffen rear to take luggage K&N been in my 850R 20 years, no problems
I thought the stock air box was the most efficient currently? Most of the other intakes bring in hotter air from the engine bay, thereby reducing performance right? And the few that don't just use higher flow filters?
The stock airbox can handle about 320hp worth of modifications, but many upper intake pipe modifications won't fit the stock airbox, so you're missing out on improvements to inflow there. The big benefit of removing the stock airbox is accessibility for other things like the oil filter, PCV, alternator, and the intercooler to intake hose there. Most intakes put the filter directly behind the radiator where heat soak can be an issue, but there are other options for those willing to do more customization that don't heat soak and remove that bottleneck.
@@colezajicek3180 I don't know of any intake pipes that won't fit the stock intake. Certainly the two large ones (in the US that is Snabb and Elevate) do fit. Considering the maf is between the stock box and the intake tube, unless you're doing a lot of work replacing the maf, more than most people would ever do, it's not going to be worth replacing as far as straight numbers go. (again, in the US. This is all based on US spec T5 cars and current tuning capabilities that I'm aware of) You are right about better access to certain engine components though. The aftermarket solutions do help that greatly
@@John..D Correct, the stock airbox is best for anyone with the K04 or even K16, but you do want to upgrade to a higher flow panel filter and an upgraded intake pipe to eliminate the bottle neck of Volvo's pipe and the restrictive intake resonator.
1 question tho... I already have a very exposed stock radiator, which degrades really fast because of the weather conditions (Netherlands). Do you have a suggestion where i can put my intercooler, otherwise than in front of my other radiators? I was thinking like on the side(s). Like Mini Coopers have.
There's no point in adding an intercooler if your car is NA, they're only for turbo cars. The front is the best place for an intercooler, even cars like the WRX with top mounts have relocation kits to the front, as that always sees fresh air. Most aftermarket intercoolers have much sturdier fins than radiators do, so it won't get as beat. But if that's a concern, I would suggest getting some mesh to make an insert for that front grille area.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken tnx for the suggestion, im currently waiting for a custom turbo kit. I seem to have found a mesh which does a decent job protecting my front radiators
No. I did this on my S40 and it was terrible. Way too loud, sounded like a tractor at idle, and a significant loss of low end torque. Do it right and buy a quality exhaust. ruclips.net/video/7YGaSfPJpw0/видео.html
I've got a 2009 V50 T5 R-Design (M66, FWD). I watched your QnA and you suggested that its probably best if I don't upgrade the suspension since my car sits lower and handles a bit tighter from factory since I've got the R-Design sport package. Would you stick by this statement or suggest to upgrade? It's a daily driven car with the very rare track day, but plenty of spirited road driving.
With the R-design suspension, I would say it's worth staying stock until the suspension is need of refreshing. Then I would go with Bilstein, Koni, or another reputable brand for shocks and struts. They can retain good daily comfort levels, stock height with your stock springs, but better damping for performance driving.
The Belgian Bar is the upper rear chassis brace, connects behind the back seats. Elevate bought the design from TheBelgian and now sells it. Only the 0.5" factory strut bar has flex issues, it's basically cosmetic only. The Volvo 1" factory strut bar is perfectly sufficient if you already have that one.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken how do I know if it’s the one inch bar do I just measure mine it’s a 2011 T-5 R design with the polestar tune I don’t want the Belgian bar then since I don’t plan on tracking the vehicle I want performance for the street not the track thanks
@@waltervila33 Best to just measure it. Volvo started including the 0.5" bar as a common option just so they could say the car had a strut bar, making the 1" bar an optional add on. The Belgian bar makes a nice improvement on street as well. As a commuter, not so much. But if you enjoy this car as a "sports car" on the weekends, you'll likely enjoy the improved rotation and better predictability that it gives the car.
@@waltervila33 That's the EuroSport Tuning Strut bar. It's actually a 3 piece design which makes it convenient to remove for brake fluid changes and replacing the battery.
Which dp do you have on the c30? I’m looking for a decat dp and exhaust system. For the downpipe I’m thinking manzo and exhaust system maybe elevates. Also looking for coilover recommendations, any help will be greatly appreciated!
I have the Manzo DP and Elevate catback with a res delete. The Manzo DP is great value for the money, but don't expect the flexpipe to last more than 60k miles. It's easy enough to cut out and welded in a better flexpipe once it does break. For coilovers, KW is pretty much the best you can buy for these cars. There are some other options, but the primary thing is to find coilovers that offer height control and adjustable damping. Built in camber plates are also a plus.
i have a question a little off topic but is it hard to install a new sound system like subwoofer or new speakers i've heard it's quite difficult to do so. cheers =D
You can add in a secondary amp for wiring up a sub or powering larger speakers. You could also just swap the factory speakers. But head unit swaps get complicated with the fiber optic system. BluePower is the only company that offers a plug and play head unit upgrade, but it has a lot of negative reviews.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Ah good to know thank you. also do you know if the high performance package comes with a center speaker i've searched every where but all i can find is about the premium sound. sorry for all the questions. =D
@@den-gula-grodan3600 High Performance does not, unless the car was specifically built with an optioned dash speaker. High Performance is actually the entry level sound package for these cars. Dynaudio and Premium should both include the center dash speaker.
Visual would be entirely based upon personal preference. If you have any questions about the cosmetic modifications to my S40s, I'd be more than happy to answer. www.michaelchallock.com/
I got some very basic and small visual mods that everyone can do. Not necessarily what you are looking for but check them out if you want in deviantart searching my account; rq5-hunter. I'm just a student so I haven't had time or money to do a whole lot but additionally to what I've done I'm thinking to add more aggressive looking front splitter (most likely will have to be custom made from some other model) and also maybe custom rear bumper but it's gonna be a big project so I'm not too sure about that myself. I don't want to do too much for it to shine out but I want to do little things that most non-volvo people might think that it could be stock. Ofc the eyelids give it away but I like the aggressiveness it alone gives. My biggest mods definitely would be in the performance side (I already got wider wheels and stiffer and lower suspension) but as I'm studying I can't really save up for those so I might end up going with a tune alone.
@@65EKS65 I built this car as a full time student. One part at a time as I could afford it, going for an OEM+ appearance. Started getting a little more extreme after college, and then I sold it within months of graduating. forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?177336
No. The engine mount holds the engine and is under the coolant reservoir. The transmission mount is under the battery box. The torque mount attaches to an arm the back of the transmission and prevents the engine/transmission from rotating under load. Ford and Mazda call it a rear motor mount, but it doesn't actually bolt to the motor. ruclips.net/video/E0SwjTEh8rA/видео.html
Which torsion bar are you referring to? I have the Elevate rear sway bar, direct from Elevate. But there are plenty of options for the Focus and Mazda Speed 3 that will be a cheaper and thicker bar upgrade for the P1 Volvos.
@@diegomenendezmiguelez5387 That is the Eurosport Tuning strut brace, which you can buy direct from them. The three piece design may not be quite as rigid as a single bar, but it allows for easy removal when removing the intake pipe, battery replacement, or brake fluid access without having to unbolt the whole bar from the strut towers. It's also a lot more rigid than the factory 1" bar.
In Spain, I'm not sure what options you'll have easy access to. FWD or AWD? Elevate makes a nice downpipe, as does Eurosport tuning. The Manzo downpipe you can get on ebay is great for the price, but expect the flex pipe to need replacing after about 50k miles.
@@LORDCOOLER714 Low mileage is good, is it up to date on maintenance? $9500 just seems like a lot to spent on a 13 year old car that will have outdated tech and inevitable old car problems. $7k or less would be more reasonable in my opinion. But if it all checks out, these can be great cars.
I'm sorry, I'm not sure what the part number is off the top of my head. But if you search for S40 AWD, V50 AWD, P1 C70, MazdaSpeed 3, for Focus ST, you should be able to find them. Just double check they are the 320mm calipers, as all of these models can come with different size brakes. Don't forget you will also need the caliper hanger bracket and brake pad spring. But when buying used, it usually includes everything.
I would say the rear sway bar first, as it's directly connected to the rear suspension for stability. The Belgian bar is an absolute must-have upgrade for C30s, but it's main purpose is to minimize body flex. While both make a noticeable improvement, the sway bar should come first.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Saved the day again....does anyone do a tune for pre 08' models? I've an 05'. By the way, NO ONE on youTube has EVER answered a subscriber question as quickly as you....and you ALWAYS do. Thx
@@raymondtuckerjr1886 I would suggest going with Hilton. Shark and Elevate will also tune your car, but I have had some bad experiences with their tuning over recent years. hiltontuning.com/
@@raymondtuckerjr1886 Always happy to help! I try to answer all questions posted on my videos, so if I ever fail to respond, it's likely because I missed the notification.
Depends on the parts you go with and if you can find them used, group buys, etc. I got my V50 to Stage3 performance for less than $2500. But at retail price, could have been nearly $10k.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken i work at a volvo dealer and someone brought in a 6 speed awd s40 that has bent valves so it would need a new head, but im a serious muscle car guy, im only thinkin about it if i can get the can for a couple hundred bucks
The Factory Volvo 320mm calipers are a solid upgrade for the C30 and have never left me desiring more. I had the 6 piston Wilwood kit and later sold it. It was definitely worth the cost, but overkill. The factory 320mm were common on the AWD manual S40/V50 and can also be found for the Mazda Speed 3 and Focus ST. Direct bolt on upgrade and then you can just use 320mm pads/rotors from the S40/V50.
I love the Wayne that your speaking about volvo. I ve got one : s40, 2009, 136cv, rdesign.2 D. But i m living in Reunion island. There is nothing here for volvo. (Pieces...) any suggestions website ? And , im french, so i don't understand anything you talk about. But im sure it's interresting. Any site web for translation ? Thk you Richard
I am not sure of parts suppliers for your area, sorry! Google has some subtitle translation options that might work with my videos if you are interested.
@@4lilbro The Elevate GT exhaust (previous Kpax) is probably the best sounding and best performing exhaust you can buy right now. But anything other than the stock muffler will be a performance improvement.
The radio is NOT a worthwhile upgrade that I would suggest. The BluePower headunit is the only plug and play aftermarket option for these cars and BluePower has pretty terrible reviews on all of their products. I would not recommend them as the system is much slower than stock for things like climate controls. While the stock radio is definitely lacking, there are no good upgrade options without trying to go custom.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken And buying original sat nav from some scratched car? Or instalation requies changing something in electricity? Btw. i dont have even on board computer to check mpg it was like in audi- just need to be active, or have to install module?
@@Ulthion You would need the sat nav, the dash (or cut into your current dash to make it fit), the steering wheel for the controls, and then you'd need software to make it all work. There may be more to it than that, as new maps are loaded via CD, so depending on what CD player and sound system you have, it might not work. To get the gauge display to read out various data, you will need a software update and you will need the turn signal stalk that has the menu dial on it.
Anything suspension and handling is relevant to all P1 Volvos. But with the 2.4i, there aren't really any modifications you can do to greatly improve the horsepower or torque numbers.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken would I still be able to do a chip tune for it at least? I'm coming off of a 2004 Saturn Ion that had pretty much no upgrades available for it so I'm new to both Volvos and upgrading my car in general.
@@soitsu96 No, the 2.4i is darn near maxed out for performance. While you can tune it, a tune is only going to be good for about +10hp, which isn't worth the $700+ price tag and will be barely noticeable. I highly discourage doing any modifications for more power on the 2.4i. If you want more power, sell the car and buy a T5. Otherwise, just enjoy the car for how it handles.
An upgrade for you, a new microphone. Keeps watchers happy and produces more
👍🥰🤘
👍😎👍MDS
stfu it aint that bad lol
@@dennydevilla5737 2:30 mate
Nice video! We totally agree that track time is extremely important. It's also very interesting to take your stock car to the track to benchmark it before doing any mods, that way you can see exactly where you made improvements.
I like your videos man, I got a S60 2.4T, S40 2.4i, and a S40 T5 AWD. These cars are addicting, back in HS I was into VW's with my GTi, now I guess its Volvo's. Seeing how many you have and had makes me feel better. Keep up the good work!
Nice simple video, very easy what you can do with these cool cars. I had a C30 back in 2009 and had a crash, now I want one again for tuning and upgrading. Thanks for the Tips
I have a S40 T5 and we did exactly all of that you suggested before i actually saw your video, and you are absolutely correct, wow i was so imprest with the difference, my Vollie is a monster now compared to stock.
I will probably buy an V50 1.8 this Christmas from my grandma. 😊
Sweet, you get it?
Thanks man, really appreciate what you telling us in your videos about much hated P1s by P2s and other Volvo owners :D
Just bought an S40 2.4i, was looking for a T5 for a good while now but got an insanely good deal on the 2.4i so... oh well. honestly, still feels PLENTY powerful, fun to drive, gets way better fuel economy than i expected and i really like the look of it as well.
And i mean, cant really go wrong with a 5 banger.
i wanna keep it mostly stock in terms of engine, maybe get an intake/exhaust setup and a tune-up, appearently you can get around the 200 hp mark with that and a tune which seems worth it to me.
any recommendations in terms of exhausts?
Im hoping to get some more sound and better flow, i dont want it to scream to insanity or anything like that tho. preferably a catback because, legality and also, not too loud.
Anyway, thanks a lot for this video-series, i feel like the P1 Volvos are kind of underappreciated or rather, overshadowed by the 850´s and V70´s. Great to see some love and help for them.
I have a t5 if you want it
@@zionstki want it
Good video 😎 my first modification on my C30 T5 : EGT + WIDEBAND
Just bought a v50 T5 AWD as my first car!
There is no v50 AWD variant standard, double check that. AWD came only with the R’s not the T5’s.. unless some money has been spent on it..
@@Benji5PoT You can get AWD on T5s and Rs
@@user-rg4wp7xw9n literally been waiting for someone to reply to this so I can correct myself.. just couldn’t find this video
Thank you for your suggestions 😊
Btw,may i ask some suggestions for the cooling system of t5 engine? That's big problem in some tropical area
Do88 makes a great front mount intercooler. I would definitely keep the stock intake box for the coldest air possible. The stock radiator is usually perfectly sufficient for most street builds. You may want to consider an external oil cooler if things get really hot.
Do you have links for all the stuff that you mentioned? I drive a 2012 c70 and I have trouble finding upgrades for it.
What’s the best high temp brake fluid for my Volvo C30? Upgraded the front brake calipers and Brembo rotors/brakes all around, and stainless steel brake lines.
Motul RBF660 is what I run in all of my cars. Never had an issue at the track.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken thanks man i actually was going to go with this one!
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken ooh! Good call! Motul's awesome.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken is it okay to use for daily driver use
@@markveith9468 Absolutely. Unlike brake pads, where track compounds are not very good on the street, racing DOT4 brake fluid is perfectly acceptable in a street car. These cars require DOT4 fluid. The only main difference between when Volvo sells and the Motul RBF660 is that the Motul fluid has a much higher boiling point.
I like that my 2009 C30 R is kind of a "sleeper" car. Nobody expects these things to be as quick as they are. However, I want it faster. As you stated, my first mod will be a tune, I'm thinking the Polestar Optimization simply because the car was designed and built with this in mind. But what are your thoughts? My end goal is to be in the 300ish hp range.
Don't waste your money on Polestar. It's only for stock parts, which will only ever get you to 230ish whp. If you want 300hp, you need bolt ons and a real tune, which would make Polestar a $1k waste of money. If you want more power before the bolt ons, pick a tuner and have them write you a Stage 1 tune that will out perform Polestar for a fraction of the cost.
TY. Follow-up question. I'm not super savvy when it comes to working on vehicles. I took your advice, reached out to a local shop. I was told that they can do the bolt-ons but that Hilton Tuning (hiltontuning.com) will write the tune and then submit it to my local shop. Does that sound right to you? I'm in Denver and I'd really like to find an all-in-one type shop. Berg Performance does everything, but only for Porsche, Audi, VW. Any help is appreciated.
@@kellyshelton8733 Hilton tunes are loaded via the Dice unit. This could be done on your own, or a shop could do it. I would suggest handling the tuning yourself, as it's as simple as connecting your computer to a car and waiting on the software to download. This also leaves you in charge of your tune file, in the event that you ever need to go back to stock or upgrade the tune.
A friend of mine owns a shop just north of Denver. He is extremely knowledgeable on P1 Volvos, has done an AWD and K16 swap on his own car, and completed an AWD swap and manual swap on another friend's car. I could not recommend a better shop to take your car to, if you're in the Denver area. Fairlane Auto Repair, ask for James. www.fairlaneautorepair.com
Aight bout to save this video for N/A 1.9 Diesel S40 😎
Buying a v50 t5 r design in couple months :) just gonna do fmic, stage 1 tune, and cold air intake
could you list where to buy the parts?
is it worth it to upgrade 1.6d volvo c30?
Remapping a 1.6d takes it from 109bhp to around 140bhp and a big increase in torque.
Do you have any links to where you found these parts? Or general volvo performance part shopping site suggestions.
Brilliant video i enjoyed that very much
So what suggestions do you have on a 2009 c 70 and can you give me a list of brands as well since I have learned some aftermarket items don’t last as long as the manufacturer parts
This list remains the same for the C70.
1. I like the Elevate rear sway bar.
2. Genuine efocus torque mount is good, but as are the whiteline and powerflex inserts for the stock mount.
3. Wheels and tires are your own preference.
4. Suspension depends on what you want. KW make great coilovers. But adjustable Bilstein shocks/struts with lowering springs are a nice setup too.
5. Most C70s already have the 320mm front brakes. So just upgrade the pads and fluid, unless you want a big brake kit.
6. Do88 and Snabb both have good intake pipes that work well with the factory air box.
7. Any intercooler upgrade is better than stock. Do88 makes the best available option.
8. The Elevate GT exhaust (for the C30) is one of the best exhaust options. Elevate's 3" is also nice, but can be a bit too loud for some people.
9. Eurosport Tuning and Viva have some good down pipe options with cats. If you're going catless, any cheap downpipe will work so long as the flex pipes are quality.
10. Avoid Elevate and Shark for tuning. I can only recommend Hilton.
Great content on this channel! I find a lot of your videos useful for maintaining and upgrading my 07 C30. I just got a set of Odysseus Volvo wheels from a P3 S80. They are 18x8 with 55mm offset. I see a lot of confusing info on the forums about the tire size I should go with. 225,235 or 245/40R18... What do you think? Thanks for the input!
Stock tire size is 215/45/18. My personal preference is 235/40/18. This is very close to the stock diameter tire, so no major error with the speedometer. 235 also sits nice and square on an 8" wide wheel with a good beefy sidewall. 245 gets a little too wide and may rub on some things. 225 does not provide sufficient sidewall flex on an 8" wide wheel. While 225 is great if you keep with a 7.5" wide wheel, 235 is my recommendation. With a 55mm offset, depending on your ride height, you may need to consider small spacers to prevent a 235 tire from rubbing the inside of the wheel wells at full steering lock.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken Thank you very much for this information! I’ll go with 235/40s then!
What body kit do you have? I’ve been looking for one for my s40 but have had no luck
On which car? The S40, everything was custom. The V50 had the factory dynamic trim. The C30 had the factory V2.0/R design trim. Then I went a bit crazier with the C30. ruclips.net/video/mOktQemekws/видео.html
#2. I have the 5-speed 2.4i, is there a torque mount option that will *reduce* vibration and road noise? Would a new OEM be better choice? #10. Does the polestar tune have adverse effects on mpg, engine wear, or engine life? Are you swapping performance for longevity? As always thanks for the awesome content!
Any of these aftermarket torque mounts will improve driving feel from a performance standpoint, but add noise, vibration, and harshness. If you want smooth, stock is your best option.
The Polestar tune is a factory option and does not hurt the car (Volvo wouldn't have offered a factory option and still honored the warranty if it did). Most basic Stage 1 tunes from aftermarket tuners are perfectly safe as well. Because tunes are optimizing your car for a certain octane rating, you'll generally see improved fuel economy as the car doesn't have to dial itself back for unknown or varying grades of fuel. For standard commuting, a lot of people find that because the car gets up to speed a little bit faster with minimal effort, they are accelerating less aggressively and for a shorter period of time, ultimately saving fuel. But from an enthusiast standpoint, a tune makes it harder to have self control and not floor the car every chance you get.
Even with all the bolt ons and a more aggressive tune, you're really not adding any more to engine wear or decreasing engine life until you start messing with internals and a bigger turbo.
But Polestar is only available for the T5. While some aftermarket tuners do offer a tune for the 2.4i, the 2.4i is already near maxed out compared to Volvo's 2.4. At that point, it's not worth spending $600+ for another 5-10hp at the crank.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken dude you are the man. Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. I started following you on YT and IG but if there's any other way I can support your engagement lmk, you are helping keep the P1 community alive.
(P.S. I know you published a bit on FCP euro, do you have a blog or other resources/ forums you can recommend for me to learn on my own? I want to be respectful of your time)
@@mattybrews Liking, commenting, and subscribing is the best way to give back! I recently started selling a Porsche shirt on my RUclips merch store. There will be some Volvo shirts in the future. Buying a shirt is also a way to support the channel.
SwedeSpeed.com is the best forum for all things P1 Volvos. It's not as active as it was back when the cars were new, but we compiled a valuable library for DIY projects. www.swedespeed.com/forums/s40-v50-2005-2012.54/
C30Crew.com is another forum for the C30, which has a lot of relevant content for all P1 Volvos. That forum is a bit of a ghost town, but there are cool builds to look up if you need inspiration.
Want to highlight that bigger brake rotors do not increase braking performance. You might get a slightly better heat dispersion but other than that it is not a worthwhile upgrade if it is stopping power you’re after.
I know its been a while but I've got to ask i have a 1.8 4 cylinder with 134hp should i do a down pipe what do you say
Great video! Was are there Volvo V40 2004 sway bar and strut bars you recommend? Where should i look or what should take into account?
The 2004 V40 is a Nedcar and not a P1. I don't have any recommendations for your platform, but iPd, Eurosport tuning, and Viva Performance and great places to start.
Do Brembo brake rotors 300mm fit the focus st bigger brake calipers from 2010 ? I have them but i thought my Brembo a were 320 not 300
Brembo makes rotors in all sizes. If you're asking if the 300mm rotors will fit the 320mm calipers, then no. You need rotors that fit your brake setup.
What kind of power and response does those engine mods increase, both in terms of daily driving experience and overall acceleration? Not looking to build a drag racer, but something to have fun and blast around town with.
With the items in the video, you'll be around 250-260whp, about 330ftlbs to the wheels, and the car should do 0-60 in the low 5 second range. Still very daily drivable, but with the power there when you want it.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken hell yeah! I’m big on torque. I had a 2005 SRT-4 stage 2 turbo upgrade which made that much power and it was a blast to drive. I like the C30’s two door hatch look over the sedan though. I think people over look usuable mid-range torque, but that’s what you feel day in day out when going about your business. I test drive a 2015 Focus RS recently and was blown away by how much fun it was to drive! Looking forward to test driving the 2009 C30 /stick shift I am interested in. Thanks for the tips!
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken hell yeah! I’m big on torque. I had a 2005 SRT-4 stage 2 turbo upgrade which made that much power and it was a blast to drive. I like the C30’s two door hatch look over the sedan though. I think people over look usuable mid-range torque, but that’s what you feel day in day out when going about your business. I test drive a 2015 Focus RS recently and was blown away by how much fun it was to drive! Looking forward to test driving the 2009 C30 /stick shift I am interested in. Thanks for the tips!
Where did you buy your fender flares looking for some for my s40
ebay ruclips.net/video/mOktQemekws/видео.html
Another quick mod would be getting adjustable upper rear control arms
Hi, you mention better wheels and tyres, what size? I just picked up a V50 T5 FWD and comes with as standard 205/50/17. Pretty narrow to be honest. What’s your recommendation?
I have found 235/40/18 to sit pretty square on an 8" wheel with minimal speedometer error. 225 can be a little stretched on an 8" wide wheel, which greatly hinders performance.
As for wheel size, both 18" and 17" are a good size. 17s will be more comfortable and sometimes lighter, but 18s allow for a stiffer tire sidewall and good traction. Ultimately, this decision is up to you. But from a performance standpoint, 19s are too big and heavy, while 16s are too small and sometimes have fitment issues with 320mm calipers.
Agreed I run focus st wheels 18s 235,40,18 ride awesome and look awesome.
Love the attitude. I just bought a C30 t5 R because im getting tired of the chevy fanboy attitude in the domestic car culture
Buying a 2008 c30 this week stoked to do some stuff to it... I got 5k to spend on it... wondering what would be best for speed and cosmetics.. dm me if you have any suggestions.. I’ll send you a pic of the car! Appreciate any help from car enthusiasts!
Any ideas for a 2.0D performance-wise?
I'm not sure... There might be some tuning options available. But for anything less than the T5, the best thing you can do is upgrade the suspension and simply enjoy a good handling car.
The biggest power bump for the diesel is going to be from tuning, but I agree with MNIWT that suspension is your best bet for that car.
Are parts like exhaust, intercooler, intake, downpipe, brake, suspensions , sway bars all interchangeable across P1 volvos? Particularly asking whether they'd fit a C30
Yes, all P1s are essentially the same. The only difference will be the exhaust system (tip placement varies between models), the downpipe is different between FWD and AWD, and the rear suspension components are different between FWD and AWD models.
I have a Volvo v40 but dont know where i can get upgrades for it in the uk
Wow, in my head I would never put 8" wide wheels on these Volvo models. Do you think it is a proper fit and I can put them on without worrying? 🤔
Depends on the offset, but yes, 8" is an ideal fit. The C70 came with 8" wide wheel options from Volvo.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken yep, well, stock wheels on S40 and C30 are 7" wide with MONSTROUS offsets, like ET52. I couldn't really find an 8" wide wheel with bigger than ET46 offset, and this is what puzzles me.
What 320mm brake rotors did you buy? I can’t decide on which ones to buy… I wanted slotted and drilled… stoptech?
I bought OEM rotors off FCP Euro for the lifetime warranty. Slotted are nice. I don't like drilled, they make a lot of noise and are more prone to cracking. I've seen people fail track inspection with lightly used drilled rotors.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken even if I’m mostly doing daily driving ? I might be doing light track down the road
@@markveith9468 I had drilled rotors on my C30 when it was just a daily and I hated it. Constant clicking noise of air being pushed through the holes every time it passed through the calipers. They look cool and are a bit better in the rain, but I've come to prefer slotted. That's just my preference though!
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken which brand 320mm should I go with? I might do slotted then, I have stock sizes Brembos drilled all around but they don’t make the whooshing sound at all lol . But they aren’t cutting it with the power I threw at the c30 … Hilton tune stage 2 and downpipe… many other mods
@@markveith9468 Anything FCP Euro sells will be tested and proven. I've bee a fan of StopTech and Brembo in the past. I've also used Zimmerman and been pleased.
For the C30 other than Calipers and Rotors, what else would I need to upgrade the front and rear to 320mm ?
For the front, you need the calipers with the caliper brackets, the larger rotors, and you may want to get the larger dust shields or be prepared to bend your current dust shields for fitment.
There is no plug and play 320mm rear upgrade for these cars. My setup is custom. Many people opt for a larger Mazda rear brake kit.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Thank you so much, I found a 2011 C70 at a salvage yard in my city. I didn't want to start taking parts that wouldn't work
Would any of these modifications be fruitless if the s40 does not have turbo?
Definitely upgrade the suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires. But when it comes to the bolt on engine parts, an intake and exhaust and purely just for sound on the N/A motors. Volvo did a pretty good job of nearly maxing them out for performance.
4:57 hahahahah that camera switch
Stupide question, I have a Volvo s60R 2004, my head gasket is blown and I’ve got a misfire this week. Can I do the head gasket by myself? I would like to keep my car the longest as possible.
That's entirely dependent upon your skill level, tools, and how long you can go without a car. Head gaskets aren't too complicated on Volvos, but there's a lot to disconnect in the process. You'll want a proper set of cam locks and a locking pin to hold the engine in top dead center. You'll need to be comfortable with removing the timing belt and associated components, as messing these up could immediately destroy engine internals. It's a good time to replace a bunch of parts while everything is apart. There's some good write ups online, so familiarize yourself with the process, buy the parts and tools you need, and then take the project on! Considering that it's already "broken" it can't get too much more broken, so it's a good opportunity to learn.
I have a Volvo S40 1.8 2004 I have done the glove test and it's blowing the glove up. I've been told that it's my breather box that is clogged up. Is this a difficult job to replace the breather box.
Seen as we are on lockdown in the UK I thought maybe it's a job that I could do. If i can get the parts.
I'm not sure how the job is on the 1.8. But on the T5, it's fairly easy and can be completed in about 30 minutes once the intake box is out of the way.
Appreciate the video, but we needs EXAMPLES of the recommended parts to purchase for the upgrades! Makes, models, and/or part numbers, please! By the way, are these parts interchangeable for the models in the description? Looking for '09 C70 upgrade recommendations! Thank You!!!
I post regular videos about my C30 where I cover the specific parts, why I have what I have, and what I would choose if I were building the car again today. ruclips.net/p/PL-_SgeO7iTPMin0JZaIs_XtexjctjULP8
Yes, these parts are interchangeable for all P1 Volvos. C30, P1 C70, P1 S40, and V50. My same list applies for all of them.
my little 06 s40 with stock suspension and conti tires handles great on tight mountain roads! more top end hp to actually be able to use its 7k redline would be nice though, its pretty flat after 5k
This is where the old non cvvt white blocks were great. A little cam timing adjustment shifts the power up and pulls to redline. Granted the bigger turbo helps to lol. A tune would greatly improve in your situation. Or a downpipe if you already have the tune. They get choked up high rpm. But with a tune an increase in boost pressure you won't need above 5k. These cars make tq down low. That's where your power Is. "Hp sells cars, tq wins races".
-Carol Shelby-
Is the elevate tune good or would you recommend any others? Also after tune and upgrades would you recommend running premium?
Avoid Elevate and Shark for a tune. Both have terrible tuning support and customer service. I only recommend Hilton now.
You should already be running premium fuel!!! Especially on a turbo cars like these, running anything less can result in engine knock and additional wear. Not to mention, it has been tested and proven that these cars get better fuel economy with 91+ octane, thus being more economical to drive with the more expensive fuel. The cars are detuned so that you can run regular fuel if needed, but this should not be common practice.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken I second this as I have a Hilton Stage 2+ tune....however that was done in 2022. As of 2023 a lot of people (including myself, a paid customer) are having a lot of trouble getting any responses from Hilton. I've inquired to Hilton about some adjustments to my tune and have never heard back, and I'm not the only one. So beware. The tune itself was great, but the customer service has not been.
is anybody in a community for building volvos? I don’t understand why it’s so hard to find aftermarket parts for these cars and/or forums for building these cars.
What is a good, affordable suspension set up for casual driving and making the car just look better. I'm considering just slapping lowering springs on ny S40(AWD) and calling it a day but I want to weight my options
Just adding lowering springs is a great way to improve handling and appearance, though many consider lowering springs to still sit too high, especially on AWD. Depending on the age of your car, you may also need to replace the shocks and struts when lowering. I would suggest going with coilovers, as this will give you the adjustability to set whatever height you want. BC makes coilovers for AWD cars that seem to have fairly good reviews among the P1 Volvo community. KW also makes a great coilover option, but these can be a lot more costly (though worth it).
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Thank you! I'll probably try out some lowering springs since I just want my S40 to sit a little lower since its my daily. If I decide I don't like it I can always save up for some coils. Do you recommend any specific brand for lowering springs?
@@TheKreattion AWD lowering spring options are fairly limited. Elevate, Eibach, H&R, or any other common brand springs would be good. They're all pretty much the same and offer the same drop and spring rates.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Awesome, thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. I appreciate it!
So what will catless DP and elevate CBE with full turbo front intake and 93 tune do maybe intercooler later when i do meth injection so what hp would it put me at 300-330hp?
Do not wait on the intercooler, it's an absolute must when going for anything more than a Stage 1 tune (which you'll be doing if you're upgrading the downpipe). These cars can suffer from heat soak on even the stock tune.
Those parts will give you the foundation for a "Stage 3" tune and will put you around the 250-260whp mark.
If I do the custom intake it would theoretically improve economy if I drive the same?
A better flowing intake would require less throttle input to achieve the same acceleration and performance, theoretically allowing you to improve fuel economy.
However, if you intend to drive the exact same and install a better flowing intake, then you would be introducing more air into the engine and this would be balanced out with more fuel, therefore improving the performance but hindering the fuel economy.
I have a 2012 C70 D3. A heavy car. When suspension gives up I will replace with aftermarket as standard seems to fail. Can u recommend ?. Also can u recommend a drop in panel filter upgrade? K&n ?
KW makes a great set of coilovers for these cars. There are some other good coilovers and lowering spring options. But the main thing is to make sure you get a suspension setup that allows for adjustable damping.
I'm not sure what drop in panel filter options there are for the D3. K&N is good if you're okay with the oiled filter. iPd also has a drop in filter option that I know is well reviewed and compatible with the T5.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken
That’s great thanks
Will check out kw
We use our c70 for holidays so need g stiffen rear to take luggage
K&N been in my 850R 20 years, no problems
im getting c70 2.3t as my first car :D
I thought the stock air box was the most efficient currently? Most of the other intakes bring in hotter air from the engine bay, thereby reducing performance right? And the few that don't just use higher flow filters?
The stock airbox can handle about 320hp worth of modifications, but many upper intake pipe modifications won't fit the stock airbox, so you're missing out on improvements to inflow there. The big benefit of removing the stock airbox is accessibility for other things like the oil filter, PCV, alternator, and the intercooler to intake hose there. Most intakes put the filter directly behind the radiator where heat soak can be an issue, but there are other options for those willing to do more customization that don't heat soak and remove that bottleneck.
@@colezajicek3180 I don't know of any intake pipes that won't fit the stock intake. Certainly the two large ones (in the US that is Snabb and Elevate) do fit. Considering the maf is between the stock box and the intake tube, unless you're doing a lot of work replacing the maf, more than most people would ever do, it's not going to be worth replacing as far as straight numbers go. (again, in the US. This is all based on US spec T5 cars and current tuning capabilities that I'm aware of) You are right about better access to certain engine components though. The aftermarket solutions do help that greatly
@@John..D Correct, the stock airbox is best for anyone with the K04 or even K16, but you do want to upgrade to a higher flow panel filter and an upgraded intake pipe to eliminate the bottle neck of Volvo's pipe and the restrictive intake resonator.
1 question tho... I already have a very exposed stock radiator, which degrades really fast because of the weather conditions (Netherlands). Do you have a suggestion where i can put my intercooler, otherwise than in front of my other radiators? I was thinking like on the side(s). Like Mini Coopers have.
There's no point in adding an intercooler if your car is NA, they're only for turbo cars. The front is the best place for an intercooler, even cars like the WRX with top mounts have relocation kits to the front, as that always sees fresh air. Most aftermarket intercoolers have much sturdier fins than radiators do, so it won't get as beat. But if that's a concern, I would suggest getting some mesh to make an insert for that front grille area.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken tnx for the suggestion, im currently waiting for a custom turbo kit. I seem to have found a mesh which does a decent job protecting my front radiators
How do u get the polestar tune?
Would you delete the muffler?
No. I did this on my S40 and it was terrible. Way too loud, sounded like a tractor at idle, and a significant loss of low end torque. Do it right and buy a quality exhaust. ruclips.net/video/7YGaSfPJpw0/видео.html
I've got a 2009 V50 T5 R-Design (M66, FWD). I watched your QnA and you suggested that its probably best if I don't upgrade the suspension since my car sits lower and handles a bit tighter from factory since I've got the R-Design sport package. Would you stick by this statement or suggest to upgrade? It's a daily driven car with the very rare track day, but plenty of spirited road driving.
With the R-design suspension, I would say it's worth staying stock until the suspension is need of refreshing. Then I would go with Bilstein, Koni, or another reputable brand for shocks and struts. They can retain good daily comfort levels, stock height with your stock springs, but better damping for performance driving.
What’s the Belgian bar is that the strut tower brace bar since the stock one flexes a lot
The Belgian Bar is the upper rear chassis brace, connects behind the back seats. Elevate bought the design from TheBelgian and now sells it.
Only the 0.5" factory strut bar has flex issues, it's basically cosmetic only. The Volvo 1" factory strut bar is perfectly sufficient if you already have that one.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken how do I know if it’s the one inch bar do I just measure mine it’s a 2011 T-5 R design with the polestar tune I don’t want the Belgian bar then since I don’t plan on tracking the vehicle I want performance for the street not the track thanks
@@waltervila33 Best to just measure it. Volvo started including the 0.5" bar as a common option just so they could say the car had a strut bar, making the 1" bar an optional add on.
The Belgian bar makes a nice improvement on street as well. As a commuter, not so much. But if you enjoy this car as a "sports car" on the weekends, you'll likely enjoy the improved rotation and better predictability that it gives the car.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken where did you get the strut bat that’s on your C30 it looks stout
@@waltervila33 That's the EuroSport Tuning Strut bar. It's actually a 3 piece design which makes it convenient to remove for brake fluid changes and replacing the battery.
Which dp do you have on the c30? I’m looking for a decat dp and exhaust system. For the downpipe I’m thinking manzo and exhaust system maybe elevates. Also looking for coilover recommendations, any help will be greatly appreciated!
I have the Manzo DP and Elevate catback with a res delete. The Manzo DP is great value for the money, but don't expect the flexpipe to last more than 60k miles. It's easy enough to cut out and welded in a better flexpipe once it does break.
For coilovers, KW is pretty much the best you can buy for these cars. There are some other options, but the primary thing is to find coilovers that offer height control and adjustable damping. Built in camber plates are also a plus.
i have a question a little off topic but is it hard to install a new sound system like subwoofer or new speakers i've heard it's quite difficult to do so. cheers =D
You can add in a secondary amp for wiring up a sub or powering larger speakers. You could also just swap the factory speakers. But head unit swaps get complicated with the fiber optic system. BluePower is the only company that offers a plug and play head unit upgrade, but it has a lot of negative reviews.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Ah good to know thank you. also do you know if the high performance package comes with a center speaker i've searched every where but all i can find is about the premium sound. sorry for all the questions. =D
@@den-gula-grodan3600 High Performance does not, unless the car was specifically built with an optioned dash speaker. High Performance is actually the entry level sound package for these cars. Dynaudio and Premium should both include the center dash speaker.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken hmm intressting well now i know thanks alot for the info
So how does one get a hold of shark? I have no social media and I sent them an email months ago to get no response.
Go with Hilton, not Shark. Shark has really dropped the ball, they've left me without any support, and I now discourage anyone from going with them.
Ok, I have the elevate tune on my s40 and I'm just overall not satisfied with their tuning at all
Love the videos... And spot on the last bit. Respect other people's build... gulp... even stance... 😁
Do a video on visual modifications, my s40 looks too plain
Visual would be entirely based upon personal preference. If you have any questions about the cosmetic modifications to my S40s, I'd be more than happy to answer. www.michaelchallock.com/
I got some very basic and small visual mods that everyone can do. Not necessarily what you are looking for but check them out if you want in deviantart searching my account; rq5-hunter.
I'm just a student so I haven't had time or money to do a whole lot but additionally to what I've done I'm thinking to add more aggressive looking front splitter (most likely will have to be custom made from some other model) and also maybe custom rear bumper but it's gonna be a big project so I'm not too sure about that myself. I don't want to do too much for it to shine out but I want to do little things that most non-volvo people might think that it could be stock. Ofc the eyelids give it away but I like the aggressiveness it alone gives. My biggest mods definitely would be in the performance side (I already got wider wheels and stiffer and lower suspension) but as I'm studying I can't really save up for those so I might end up going with a tune alone.
@@65EKS65 I built this car as a full time student. One part at a time as I could afford it, going for an OEM+ appearance. Started getting a little more extreme after college, and then I sold it within months of graduating. forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?177336
RQ5-Hunter I’ve already got a tune, works really well but my car doesn’t scream “race me” since it looks like some old lady’s daily driver
RQ5-Hunter also, that’s a very nice car!
Could someone tell me if a torque mount is the same as an engine mount? I’m interested in doing this upgrade
No. The engine mount holds the engine and is under the coolant reservoir. The transmission mount is under the battery box. The torque mount attaches to an arm the back of the transmission and prevents the engine/transmission from rotating under load. Ford and Mazda call it a rear motor mount, but it doesn't actually bolt to the motor. ruclips.net/video/E0SwjTEh8rA/видео.html
where did you buy the torsion bar and the rear sway bar??????
Which torsion bar are you referring to? I have the Elevate rear sway bar, direct from Elevate. But there are plenty of options for the Focus and Mazda Speed 3 that will be a cheaper and thicker bar upgrade for the P1 Volvos.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken i mean the one positioned in the engine
@@diegomenendezmiguelez5387 That is the Eurosport Tuning strut brace, which you can buy direct from them. The three piece design may not be quite as rigid as a single bar, but it allows for easy removal when removing the intake pipe, battery replacement, or brake fluid access without having to unbolt the whole bar from the strut towers. It's also a lot more rigid than the factory 1" bar.
Okey thx so much
Great video
Im searching a downpipe for my volvo v50 p1, anyone knows where i can get one (im from spain)
In Spain, I'm not sure what options you'll have easy access to. FWD or AWD? Elevate makes a nice downpipe, as does Eurosport tuning. The Manzo downpipe you can get on ebay is great for the price, but expect the flex pipe to need replacing after about 50k miles.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken its FWD 2.0D, manzo downpipes looks good, ill think about it. Thanks for the help!!
Hello, can you please make de video with CC?
There’s a 2008 Volvo v50 for sale with 48k miles for $9500, should I buy it?
It’s the 5 cylinder version
It’s in excellent condition and everything.
@@LORDCOOLER714 Low mileage is good, is it up to date on maintenance? $9500 just seems like a lot to spent on a 13 year old car that will have outdated tech and inevitable old car problems. $7k or less would be more reasonable in my opinion. But if it all checks out, these can be great cars.
Is there anything I can do a petrol 2.0 SE LUX?
For power, there's not a lot that can be improved. But suspension and handling upgrades are all the same.
Do you know the part numer for the brake calipers?
I'm sorry, I'm not sure what the part number is off the top of my head. But if you search for S40 AWD, V50 AWD, P1 C70, MazdaSpeed 3, for Focus ST, you should be able to find them. Just double check they are the 320mm calipers, as all of these models can come with different size brakes. Don't forget you will also need the caliper hanger bracket and brake pad spring. But when buying used, it usually includes everything.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTakenThanks, great video btw.
Great video, thanks for continuing to add to the community!
Question though... would you updrade rear sway bar over The Belgian bar?
I would say the rear sway bar first, as it's directly connected to the rear suspension for stability. The Belgian bar is an absolute must-have upgrade for C30s, but it's main purpose is to minimize body flex. While both make a noticeable improvement, the sway bar should come first.
Help! Where can I access the Polestar stage 1 tune for my s40?
Polestar only offers one "stage" and it can only be purchased / loaded by the Volvo dealership.
Only available for 2008+ models.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Saved the day again....does anyone do a tune for pre 08' models? I've an 05'. By the way, NO ONE on youTube has EVER answered a subscriber question as quickly as you....and you ALWAYS do. Thx
@@raymondtuckerjr1886 I would suggest going with Hilton. Shark and Elevate will also tune your car, but I have had some bad experiences with their tuning over recent years. hiltontuning.com/
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken you're STILL numero uno. Thx.
@@raymondtuckerjr1886 Always happy to help! I try to answer all questions posted on my videos, so if I ever fail to respond, it's likely because I missed the notification.
Is your C30 a petrol or diesel model?
We only got the T5 here in the US.
man you gotta tell us where to buy these things!!!
Where can I find that tuner?
Here are the tuners that I suggest for these cars:
hiltontuning.com/
sharktuned.com/
www.elevatecars.com
How much would all of this cost??
Depends on the parts you go with and if you can find them used, group buys, etc. I got my V50 to Stage3 performance for less than $2500. But at retail price, could have been nearly $10k.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken i work at a volvo dealer and someone brought in a 6 speed awd s40 that has bent valves so it would need a new head, but im a serious muscle car guy, im only thinkin about it if i can get the can for a couple hundred bucks
Can someone point me to a brake upgrade? I'm a noob. The elevate kit is like 1500 bucks?
The Factory Volvo 320mm calipers are a solid upgrade for the C30 and have never left me desiring more. I had the 6 piston Wilwood kit and later sold it. It was definitely worth the cost, but overkill. The factory 320mm were common on the AWD manual S40/V50 and can also be found for the Mazda Speed 3 and Focus ST. Direct bolt on upgrade and then you can just use 320mm pads/rotors from the S40/V50.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken thanks.
MyNameIdeasWereTaken hey man, can I message you? Privately? Facebook? Email?
@@fodolocraigo8426 @MyNameIdeasWereTaken on instagram, or facebook: facebook.com/xhallock
MyNameIdeasWereTaken I message you on ig ☺️
I love the Wayne that your speaking about volvo. I ve got one : s40, 2009, 136cv, rdesign.2 D. But i m living in Reunion island. There is nothing here for volvo. (Pieces...) any suggestions website ? And , im french, so i don't understand anything you talk about. But im sure it's interresting. Any site web for translation ?
Thk you
Richard
I love the Way*
I am not sure of parts suppliers for your area, sorry! Google has some subtitle translation options that might work with my videos if you are interested.
What exhaust did you put on your c30?
Manzo Catless DP and Elevate 3" catback without resonators. This was about 10 years ago before there were many options available...
MyNameIdeasWereTaken is there something better that you would recommend
@@4lilbro The Elevate GT exhaust (previous Kpax) is probably the best sounding and best performing exhaust you can buy right now. But anything other than the stock muffler will be a performance improvement.
Alright, thank you so much
Radio!!!!! There is some android radio for this and what not cos 500$?
The radio is NOT a worthwhile upgrade that I would suggest. The BluePower headunit is the only plug and play aftermarket option for these cars and BluePower has pretty terrible reviews on all of their products. I would not recommend them as the system is much slower than stock for things like climate controls. While the stock radio is definitely lacking, there are no good upgrade options without trying to go custom.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken And buying original sat nav from some scratched car? Or instalation requies changing something in electricity?
Btw. i dont have even on board computer to check mpg it was like in audi- just need to be active, or have to install module?
@@Ulthion You would need the sat nav, the dash (or cut into your current dash to make it fit), the steering wheel for the controls, and then you'd need software to make it all work. There may be more to it than that, as new maps are loaded via CD, so depending on what CD player and sound system you have, it might not work.
To get the gauge display to read out various data, you will need a software update and you will need the turn signal stalk that has the menu dial on it.
It's not "Chass-ees" it's "chassee"
Chassis is pronounced "Cha-see" Not "Cha-sis"
good.....you use HATE......wrong word in this qonversation......use Dislike......
Only a mad man would grow hair on his face like that.
I just bought a 2007 S40 2.4i, how many of these upgrades would be viable for it? Or do you have any other suggestions?
Anything suspension and handling is relevant to all P1 Volvos. But with the 2.4i, there aren't really any modifications you can do to greatly improve the horsepower or torque numbers.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken would I still be able to do a chip tune for it at least? I'm coming off of a 2004 Saturn Ion that had pretty much no upgrades available for it so I'm new to both Volvos and upgrading my car in general.
@@soitsu96 No, the 2.4i is darn near maxed out for performance. While you can tune it, a tune is only going to be good for about +10hp, which isn't worth the $700+ price tag and will be barely noticeable. I highly discourage doing any modifications for more power on the 2.4i. If you want more power, sell the car and buy a T5. Otherwise, just enjoy the car for how it handles.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Well, I just brought it home from the dealership today after some joyriding and I think I'm just fine with 170hp lol