You CAN also plug the heater ports with this method if you desire. Many people say that you shouldn't do that because LSx engines need the Heater Flow for proper cooling system operation. I've never found this to be true, but I have only blocked the ports one or two times.
That's silly anyone would say that. The heater core doesn't remove heat unless heat is commanded on. And alot of cars running LS swaps have heater control valves which block flow until heat is commanded on. Never seen anyone overheat
@@ryanericw I don’t think it is true either but every time I discuss this someone brings it up. The idea is, that the LS cooling system (factory) flows coolant through the heater core whether the thermostat is open or not. So people assume it MUST do that. But a lot of systems do that and people have been blocking them off for decades without issue.
Honestly this can be done on other projects as well. It just made sense to make this about LS stuff. On an older engine you could just install the AN Fittings into the already existing NPT Ports and run hoses like that. Its a simple detail that makes a project stand apart. Most folks wouldn't think to ditch traditional heater hoses entirely.
I have a garage full of GM NOS parts. Plus, I have a 2003 Tahoe 5.3L going into my 1967 C10. The water pumps design is not disrupted is both heater hose holes are plugged. Folks have to remember, this is a reverse flow coolant system with a “Two-Stage” thermostat. If the heater connections are plugged, the coolant simple is rotated back into the system, block and heads. If too hot, the stat opens and allows flow thru the radiator as normal. I had a customer who swore the heater core allowed a sweet smell into the cabin. I had my K-D hose pinch pliers and two needle nose vise grips on the heater hoses for two hours at normal op temperature. It had not noticeable issues with cooling running the engine at two different speeds using the “Brake Pedal” tool on the gas pedal. Then, I let the customer drive the vehicle for 3 days in July. No problems and I got my pliers back. After the pliers came off, another three days changed nothing. Thanks for the cool install/update. Looks very clean. Nice! Omaha.
Dean Kay yea I worked on a couple LS Swapped cars back in Texas in the middle of the summer that didn’t have heater cores at all and never had a problem. Good info 👍🏻
That is interesting, my 2004 1-ton van has the LQ4 in it. They sure leak oil and break exhaust manifold studs. I will have to research options on swapping accessory drive parts, for some reason I need a 2005 model engine to install a dual alternator kit so perhaps it's just a matter of getting extra parts to make the kit fit.
The exhaust manifold studs are a PIA. Oil leaking however isn't typically a terrible problem. Sure some valve cover gaskets and a rear main seal from time to time, maybe an oil pan gasket, but I've never had one be a terrible leaker. At least not compared to say a classic Small Block Chevy motor.
Have you ever routed those into the front and rear stream ports? I was going to do what you did and tap the ports and then reduce them down to run a sending and return line but to front and rear stream port lines.
This makes me super nervous. Have you considered AutoPlumb AN fitting adaptors? Seems to be a zero risk way for similar results. Obvoiusly tapping the holes permits AN fitting use in the tightest space possible.
I think the video I did right after this one was about using the Auto-Plumb AN adapters. They are not for converting a regular heater hose nipple to AN, they are for converting AC Bulkhead fittings to AN. They are what I used on the other end of the heater hoses on this project to attach to the firewall bulkhead. This is the video (the adapters are made under the brand AeroFlow but sold by AutoPlumb): ruclips.net/video/D0ERyNBoISU/видео.html I totally get a lot of folks wouldn't be comfortable with this mod, and they shouldn't do it if they are. I've done it on numerous cars without issue. The only problems I can see are: 1) Potentially cracking the pump while tapping or threading in fittings (hasn't happened to me). 2) Metal shavings damaging the pump if you don't clean them out. 3) If your pump goes bad for normal reasons, you have to do this again on the replacement pump (and void the warranty most likely). None of which are reasons to avoid it in my eyes. It is a custom detail touch or race car modification, not a daily driver type of thing.
This truck features an entire front suspension kit that is a redesign, so I cannot offer that information. I don’t recommend rack kits on stock suspensions usually they rarely feature geometry properly design to work together. It’s most often just a company saying “sure we can make a bracket kit to mount a rack on that”, not actually designing an application specific assembly. Sorry.
@hotrodhippie I have an L92 Gen IV truck water pump. Could you twist out the water neck on the top to also tap and install an AN adapter? Would you happen to know which tap size is recommended? I see a lot of radiator hoses are using 20 AN. The inlet hole may also be a 1.5".
Hey my friend I have a question in an LS swap The water pump have 2 Nipples one bigger one is smaller. I nstall my vintage air.. and about to do the houses my question is which nipple off the water pump Should I connect the heater control valve.. on the smaller or bigger nipple If you can let me know appreciate thank you so much
This bit of tutorial is something you don't see everyday , it makes me want to swap my caddy motor for a GM LS1 conversion,but will the AN fitting application still work for Olds or Pontiac build cause I have a B.O.P 200r4 trans because it already contains this behind that awful 4.1 H.T.? It needs to go for somehow it has 169k miles on it documented.
I figured these little details are the things that often get overlooked in articles/build guides. I hate when I'm reading instructions or an install article and suddenly they jump over some detail work.
Sir, We really don’t have adequate room for the main top / inlet (I think this is the inlet) hose. We are using the IS3 Corvette water pump with the fitting that points straight forward. Have you ever tapped this fitting? Any help you can pass on would be greatly appreciated‼
CBM makes a Press-Fit replacement for that water neck that uses -16AN. It is available here: amzn.to/3DJxSdJ That said, a -16AN 90 degree fitting is still LARGE, and may not fit your situation either. I'd look at the dimensions and figure out what is going to fit your application.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread No, it is in fact National. Nominal Pipe Size refers to the size of a pipe itself. The threads on said pipe, are National Pipe Thread.
WD-40 is a lubricant. Per their website: WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and LUBRICATES almost anything. www.wd40.com/products/one-gallon/
Under normal circumstances I'd agree, but since he's only going into aluminum and doing it by hand WD40 would agree. +1 for tap magic on everything else
You CAN also plug the heater ports with this method if you desire. Many people say that you shouldn't do that because LSx engines need the Heater Flow for proper cooling system operation. I've never found this to be true, but I have only blocked the ports one or two times.
That's silly anyone would say that. The heater core doesn't remove heat unless heat is commanded on. And alot of cars running LS swaps have heater control valves which block flow until heat is commanded on. Never seen anyone overheat
@@ryanericw I don’t think it is true either but every time I discuss this someone brings it up. The idea is, that the LS cooling system (factory) flows coolant through the heater core whether the thermostat is open or not. So people assume it MUST do that. But a lot of systems do that and people have been blocking them off for decades without issue.
Finally a straight forward video about sizing. Getting ready to start an ls3 build and wasnt able to find definite sizing until now. Much appreciated.
I don’t have an LS, but I still found some of the information quite useful. Keep it up.
Honestly this can be done on other projects as well. It just made sense to make this about LS stuff. On an older engine you could just install the AN Fittings into the already existing NPT Ports and run hoses like that. Its a simple detail that makes a project stand apart. Most folks wouldn't think to ditch traditional heater hoses entirely.
Putting an ls3 in a 78 c3 Vette and I think this video is exactly what I needed! Thanks man keep it up
I have a garage full of GM NOS parts. Plus, I have a 2003 Tahoe 5.3L going into my 1967 C10. The water pumps design is not disrupted is both heater hose holes are plugged. Folks have to remember, this is a reverse flow coolant system with a “Two-Stage” thermostat. If the heater connections are plugged, the coolant simple is rotated back into the system, block and heads. If too hot, the stat opens and allows flow thru the radiator as normal. I had a customer who swore the heater core allowed a sweet smell into the cabin. I had my K-D hose pinch pliers and two needle nose vise grips on the heater hoses for two hours at normal op temperature. It had not noticeable issues with cooling running the engine at two different speeds using the “Brake Pedal” tool on the gas pedal. Then, I let the customer drive the vehicle for 3 days in July. No problems and I got my pliers back. After the pliers came off, another three days changed nothing.
Thanks for the cool install/update. Looks very clean. Nice! Omaha.
Dean Kay yea I worked on a couple LS Swapped cars back in Texas in the middle of the summer that didn’t have heater cores at all and never had a problem. Good info 👍🏻
Keep going, the content is great and very informative
Thank you, no end in sight. 👍👍
Awesome work! Miss your content!
Woohoo! I was the 100th guy to click the thumbs-up. This was a really great video. I don't understand why it only has 800 views?
Thanks. There is never really a rhyme or reasons why videos hit or don’t as far as I can tell. I just keep making them and what happens happens. 🤷🏻
Thanks for your help !
Great option
Like how u do things 👌🏿
Pretty cool
Thank you
I dig it!!
Glad you did 👍👍👍
That is interesting, my 2004 1-ton van has the LQ4 in it. They sure leak oil and break exhaust manifold studs. I will have to research options on swapping accessory drive parts, for some reason I need a 2005 model engine to install a dual alternator kit so perhaps it's just a matter of getting extra parts to make the kit fit.
The exhaust manifold studs are a PIA. Oil leaking however isn't typically a terrible problem. Sure some valve cover gaskets and a rear main seal from time to time, maybe an oil pan gasket, but I've never had one be a terrible leaker. At least not compared to say a classic Small Block Chevy motor.
Have you ever routed those into the front and rear stream ports? I was going to do what you did and tap the ports and then reduce them down to run a sending and return line but to front and rear stream port lines.
This makes me super nervous. Have you considered AutoPlumb AN fitting adaptors? Seems to be a zero risk way for similar results. Obvoiusly tapping the holes permits AN fitting use in the tightest space possible.
I think the video I did right after this one was about using the Auto-Plumb AN adapters. They are not for converting a regular heater hose nipple to AN, they are for converting AC Bulkhead fittings to AN. They are what I used on the other end of the heater hoses on this project to attach to the firewall bulkhead.
This is the video (the adapters are made under the brand AeroFlow but sold by AutoPlumb): ruclips.net/video/D0ERyNBoISU/видео.html
I totally get a lot of folks wouldn't be comfortable with this mod, and they shouldn't do it if they are. I've done it on numerous cars without issue.
The only problems I can see are:
1) Potentially cracking the pump while tapping or threading in fittings (hasn't happened to me).
2) Metal shavings damaging the pump if you don't clean them out.
3) If your pump goes bad for normal reasons, you have to do this again on the replacement pump (and void the warranty most likely).
None of which are reasons to avoid it in my eyes. It is a custom detail touch or race car modification, not a daily driver type of thing.
How about a video on installing a rack and pinion on the C10 (seen below the fittings you were installing)???
This truck features an entire front suspension kit that is a redesign, so I cannot offer that information. I don’t recommend rack kits on stock suspensions usually they rarely feature geometry properly design to work together. It’s most often just a company saying “sure we can make a bracket kit to mount a rack on that”, not actually designing an application specific assembly. Sorry.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks Alan. I agree most companies are as you say. There is one that I would trust. Keep up the good work!
@hotrodhippie I have an L92 Gen IV truck water pump. Could you twist out the water neck on the top to also tap and install an AN adapter? Would you happen to know which tap size is recommended? I see a lot of radiator hoses are using 20 AN. The inlet hole may also be a 1.5".
Tiktok brought me to the hotrod hippie
Hey how did you install the flashpower billet heater & a/c bulkhead into the firewall?
Good question, I'd like to know as well
Hey my friend I have a question in an LS swap The water pump have 2 Nipples one bigger one is smaller. I nstall my vintage air.. and about to do the houses my question is which nipple off the water pump Should I connect the heater control valve.. on the smaller or bigger nipple If you can let me know appreciate thank you so much
does this work on an ls1 water pump?
This bit of tutorial is something you don't see everyday , it makes me want to swap my caddy motor for a GM LS1 conversion,but will the AN fitting application still work for Olds or Pontiac build cause I have a B.O.P 200r4 trans because it already contains this behind that awful 4.1 H.T.? It needs to go for somehow it has 169k miles on it documented.
I figured these little details are the things that often get overlooked in articles/build guides. I hate when I'm reading instructions or an install article and suddenly they jump over some detail work.
Sir, We really don’t have adequate room for the main top / inlet (I think this is the inlet) hose. We are using the IS3 Corvette water pump with the fitting that points straight forward. Have you ever tapped this fitting? Any help you can pass on would be greatly appreciated‼
CBM makes a Press-Fit replacement for that water neck that uses -16AN. It is available here: amzn.to/3DJxSdJ
That said, a -16AN 90 degree fitting is still LARGE, and may not fit your situation either. I'd look at the dimensions and figure out what is going to fit your application.
Thank You I appreciate the info. The search continues….
👍😎👍
nominal pipe thread not NATIONAL
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread
No, it is in fact National. Nominal Pipe Size refers to the size of a pipe itself. The threads on said pipe, are National Pipe Thread.
Please tell me you're not using WD-40 as a lubricant... It's NOT a lubricant. You should be using something like Tap Magic.
The manufacturer advertises it as a lubricant (although not specifically for tapping threads).
WD-40 is a lubricant.
Per their website:
WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and LUBRICATES almost anything.
www.wd40.com/products/one-gallon/
Under normal circumstances I'd agree, but since he's only going into aluminum and doing it by hand WD40 would agree. +1 for tap magic on everything else