Many thanks for all your great 107 videos. They are most helpful. I’ve done the sub and engine mounts on my slc. Upper and lower control,arms are off. Power steering pump threw off a lot of oil which means I don’t know if the oil pan gasket is leaking or not. As I haven’t torqued the mounts yet, I may drop the subframe to do the oil pan. I’ll have a cuppa or 2 an mull it over. Thanks again, great work and filming.
Wow - you have made great progress. I have not yet done any work on the power steering pump but from memory, this will have its own oil reservoir...so maybe the power steering pump oil has a small leak? Mike
Leak of biblical proportions which was left to leak. I’ve fixed one of these pumps before decided to go for a reconditioned unit to save time. Prior owner also let the master cylinder leak so small rust holes in lhs wheel well. Also leaked in to the booster -thanks for video on that. Front brake calipers rusted solid, new shocks and bushings. Mine came out very quickly. Southern car so mostly rust free except hole in boot. Did not bother to change rear window seal on slc so leaked. Also wrecked the back seat frame but leather is fine. Again thanks for video on changing the seats, the interior mat, fuel hoses need doing but tank is fine. Hope to be done by Xmas or shortly thereafter. Be well. @@MikesMercsandothercars
Sounds like you have got your work cut out...and if you get all that done by Christmas, you'll be making better progress than me!! Good luck and let me know how you go. Mike@@MJR67
Great video Mike and thanks! I currently have the engine and transmission out of my 1973 450 SLC. The front end needs a total rebuild so I'm dropping the subframe and renewing all suspension parts. Cheers from Nashville!
That;s great - over the next few days, I'll be doing a short series of videos about refurbishing and renewing all the suspension and steering parts so hopefully you will be able to save some money on parts. Mike
Awesome work, the best thing, thing to do,replace all the rusted parts, now then there is less of a headache, and you can enjoy your pride & joy,👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Mike, is there any reason why i couldnt just detach tie rods, sway bar, shock, undo brake lines and wires and drop the entire subframe still intact with springs and control arms still attached?
Thanks for your comment. I guess you might be able to do that depending on what your aim was. For example, you don't need to remove the springs if you were just replacing the subframe mounts. Just bear in mind that the subframe with control arms, discs and springs weighs an absolute ton. Mike
Thanks for your comment and sorry to hear that. I’m no expert, but from what I have been told, welding the subframe or control arms is a big no no. What country are you in- I have a sub frame on my parts car. Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars Ya, that’s the same info I’ve been reading. I’m being told to get a 560sl frame as they all have been supported originally. I’m in Los Angeles. Thanks for the offer though.
Hey Mike, I would never attempt this kind of work, though I would love to be an assistant. What a process, like a mechanical puzzle! I find all of this fascinating to watch. So many parts come together to create an amazing machine that I think about when behind the wheel driving. When you finally got it out, I can see it is a different design to the 85 US model subframe (prone to cracking at the A joint) The US models had a subframe issue that caused it to crack (early iron block engines). I think the weight of the engine was too much for the subframe. As I understand it, the 380SL had less of a problem due to the lighter 3.8 alloy engine. Still, it looks like a better design overall, one solid piece from side to side. Am I correct? Questions: With continued driving, wouldn't so many bolts work their way loose at some point and cause issues? How many miles are on this vehicle? Is the subframe cracked or just corroded? Thanks!!
These jobs always look difficult the first time you attempt them....but at the end of the day, it is only a few nuts and bolts. Yes some of the subframes were recalled due to cracking. Never a problem on the lighter 280sl. The control arm bolts have lock nuts and often you will find that bolts are 'stretch' one time use bolts. I don't recall how many miles that 280SL had...probably in excess of 200,000. The subframe was rusty but came up nicely after sandblasting and powder coating. Mike
Extremely well produced and informative video Mike. Thanks. I am restoring a 1987 SL and need to replace subframe mounts and lower A frame any links to parts supplier would be appreciated?.
Hello and thanks for our comment. At the end of all of my videos I always try to put where I got the parts from and list the part numbers. Where ever possible, I try to find the best quality parts at the lowest prices - in many cases there is a HUGE range in price for basically the same item. In the video below there is a link to a site which will give you all the merc part numbers. Once you have these, you can search ebay/amazon/SL shop etc: ruclips.net/video/bv-LFG88a2g/видео.html Mike
@@nickcroxton5056 I am based in the UK and use the Bilt Hamber Deox C cystals. They work great and work our much cheaper than things like Evaporust. Mike www.bilthamber.com/deox-c
Hey Mike , when you ordered your motor mounts did you order two of the same kind? are the mounts symmetrical? i have a 1973 450SLC US version and im having a hard time finding the correct mounts thank you
Thanks for your comment. Yes they are symmetrical. Maybe you can use the mb-teilekatalog.info site to get the part number. These mounts can be stupidly expensive....so good luck. Mike
Mike, your videos have been so helpful. I'm glad to donate some money to you for your effort I know that this is not an easy task to film these. Again my deepest appreciation!
Hello Mike,
Great video. Given me the confidence to tackle this (with no ramps). Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for your comment. Hope it all goes well. Mike
Really glad I watched this before doing the same on my W114 (same suspension.) Thank you!
Thanks for your comment - glad the video was useful. Mike
Many thanks for all your great 107 videos. They are most helpful. I’ve done the sub and engine mounts on my slc. Upper and lower control,arms are off. Power steering pump threw off a lot of oil which means I don’t know if the oil pan gasket is leaking or not. As I haven’t torqued the mounts yet, I may drop the subframe to do the oil pan. I’ll have a cuppa or 2 an mull it over. Thanks again, great work and filming.
Wow - you have made great progress. I have not yet done any work on the power steering pump but from memory, this will have its own oil reservoir...so maybe the power steering pump oil has a small leak? Mike
Leak of biblical proportions which was left to leak. I’ve fixed one of these pumps before decided to go for a reconditioned unit to save time. Prior owner also let the master cylinder leak so small rust holes in lhs wheel well. Also leaked in to the booster -thanks for video on that. Front brake calipers rusted solid, new shocks and bushings. Mine came out very quickly. Southern car so mostly rust free except hole in boot. Did not bother to change rear window seal on slc so leaked. Also wrecked the back seat frame but leather is fine. Again thanks for video on changing the seats, the interior mat, fuel hoses need doing but tank is fine. Hope to be done by Xmas or shortly thereafter. Be well. @@MikesMercsandothercars
Sounds like you have got your work cut out...and if you get all that done by Christmas, you'll be making better progress than me!! Good luck and let me know how you go. Mike@@MJR67
Great video Mike and thanks! I currently have the engine and transmission out of my 1973 450 SLC. The front end needs a total rebuild so I'm dropping the subframe and renewing all suspension parts. Cheers from Nashville!
That;s great - over the next few days, I'll be doing a short series of videos about refurbishing and renewing all the suspension and steering parts so hopefully you will be able to save some money on parts. Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars Thanks so much Mike!
Amazing work and explanation! Keep up the great work, Mike! Thanks!!
Thanks for your comment - really appreciated. Mike
hello mike
you are my teacher
if i have some questions
please teach me
Thank you so much
Thanks for your comment. I'll try to help you if I can...the hardest thing about most of these jobs is having the confidence to have a go. Mike
Awesome work, the best thing, thing to do,replace all the rusted parts, now then there is less of a headache, and you can enjoy your pride & joy,👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Mike, is there any reason why i couldnt just detach tie rods, sway bar, shock, undo brake lines and wires and drop the entire subframe still intact with springs and control arms still attached?
Thanks for your comment. I guess you might be able to do that depending on what your aim was. For example, you don't need to remove the springs if you were just replacing the subframe mounts. Just bear in mind that the subframe with control arms, discs and springs weighs an absolute ton.
Mike
Thanks Mike.. My 84 subframe just cracked at the LCA. Is it possible to weld it and add the gussets or do I have to replace the entire subframe?
Thanks for your comment and sorry to hear that. I’m no expert, but from what I have been told, welding the subframe or control arms is a big no no. What country are you in- I have a sub frame on my parts car. Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars Ya, that’s the same info I’ve been reading. I’m being told to get a 560sl frame as they all have been supported originally. I’m in Los Angeles. Thanks for the offer though.
Hey Mike, I would never attempt this kind of work, though I would love to be an assistant. What a process, like a mechanical puzzle! I find all of this fascinating to watch. So many parts come together to create an amazing machine that I think about when behind the wheel driving. When you finally got it out, I can see it is a different design to the 85 US model subframe (prone to cracking at the A joint) The US models had a subframe issue that caused it to crack (early iron block engines). I think the weight of the engine was too much for the subframe. As I understand it, the 380SL had less of a problem due to the lighter 3.8 alloy engine. Still, it looks like a better design overall, one solid piece from side to side. Am I correct?
Questions: With continued driving, wouldn't so many bolts work their way loose at some point and cause issues?
How many miles are on this vehicle?
Is the subframe cracked or just corroded?
Thanks!!
These jobs always look difficult the first time you attempt them....but at the end of the day, it is only a few nuts and bolts.
Yes some of the subframes were recalled due to cracking. Never a problem on the lighter 280sl.
The control arm bolts have lock nuts and often you will find that bolts are 'stretch' one time use bolts.
I don't recall how many miles that 280SL had...probably in excess of 200,000. The subframe was rusty but came up nicely after sandblasting and powder coating. Mike
Extremely well produced and informative video Mike. Thanks. I am restoring a 1987 SL and need to replace subframe mounts and lower A frame any links to parts supplier would be appreciated?.
Hello and thanks for our comment. At the end of all of my videos I always try to put where I got the parts from and list the part numbers. Where ever possible, I try to find the best quality parts at the lowest prices - in many cases there is a HUGE range in price for basically the same item. In the video below there is a link to a site which will give you all the merc part numbers. Once you have these, you can search ebay/amazon/SL shop etc:
ruclips.net/video/bv-LFG88a2g/видео.html
Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars Thank you so much!!! Just a quick question what do you use in your de rust bath?
@@nickcroxton5056 I am based in the UK and use the Bilt Hamber Deox C cystals. They work great and work our much cheaper than things like Evaporust. Mike
www.bilthamber.com/deox-c
Hey Mike , when you ordered your motor mounts did you order two of the same kind? are the mounts symmetrical?
i have a 1973 450SLC US version and im having a hard time finding the correct mounts
thank you
Thanks for your comment. Yes they are symmetrical. Maybe you can use the mb-teilekatalog.info site to get the part number. These mounts can be stupidly expensive....so good luck. Mike
Great work - I think at this point you might as well remove the engine and transmission and do a complete cosmetic restoration.
Fantastic
Thanks!
Mike, your videos have been so helpful. I'm glad to donate some money to you for your effort I know that this is not an easy task to film these. Again my deepest appreciation!
Thanks - that is really generous of you. I'm glad the videos have been useful. Mike@@williamhoward7121
شكرأ مايك
انا اعمل في نظام سسبنشل سيرفيس بمرسيدس 34 سنه سوريا حلب
W121. /W111 /W110 /W109 W 115/ W116/ W123 /W124 /W140 W210/ W220/W211
Hi - good to hear from you. I hope one day there is peace in the country and people can just get back to living their lives.....and fixing cars! Mike
Thanks!
Thanks - really appreciated. So glad these videos have been helpful. Mike
Thanks!