I just remodeled my bathroom and the plain wax ring on the toilet had simply dissolved. It was leaking but did not rock. I tried this green Sanii Seal gasket and it worked a treat. It really made reseating the toilet easy because it holds the bolts up straight. It allows multiple repositions and makes a tight seal with a leak-proof funnel. It's much tougher than a wax seal. Time will tell on its reliability, but I was impressed with it.
I have use 5 of these in our home and they are fantastic. I would never use a wax ring again! I started using these because I replaced a toilet in the basement with a wax ring after just a few days I notice a faint sewer gas aroma. The floor was tiled and it was higher than the flange causing the wax ring to leak sewer gas. I found these saniseal rings and they compressed down and around the flange (unlike a wax ring). Iv also read of people having the same issue with a gap so big that they had to use two of these foam rings on top of each other and it worked beautifully. I recently replaced a floor in our bathroom that I had put a new toilet in using a saniseal ring about two years ago. It was so nice to just remove the toilet put down the new flooring and then reinstall the toilet using the same saniseal ring. The ring was is perfect shape. It was also really nice to not have to scrape off all the nasty old wax from a wax ring.
I just remodeled our bathroom and had to put toilet temporarily,prior to that the toilet was replaced and one of these similar seals were used. After i remove the toilet and kept working on the remodeling never had any issues even without any bolts on it. Product is really great.
newbie here, used this and I am amazed. My plumbing also had a older, bigger 5 inch opening and this fits it like a champ. In my youth, I watched and helped my dad for years struggle with wax rings. hard to believe this a relatively new idea in toilet seals. never going back to wax, its pointless and messy now.
The flange on my toilet is uneven. This caused issues with the wax ring. Tried this product and so far so good. The best part was that I had to move the toilet a bit while installing it and unlike a wax ring, it held up very well.
I've been using these SaniSeals for 4 years and love the fact that we can remove and reinstall the toilet a few times without clearing off wax and placing a new wax ring. Many times We have to have working toilets in my remodel properties, and so we'll pull one off to tile the floor, then put it back afterwards. sometimes we decide to change out a vanity and need the space and have to pull the toilet temporarily and replace it. Love the guide holes to hold the toilet bolts straight upward, it allows me to place a toilet by myself by standing over it.
Agreed--when you need to remove and replace a toilet several times these really cone in handy. And, for rental properties where it's likely that a toilet will be replaced in a few years anyway, these will save time.
Thank you for info on this bc I am looking at having to remove and replace toilet several times, and was wondering/dreading wax ring! Unknown issues may await me, but I somehow feel better about multiple removal/replacements after your video! Thanks again, I'm a lot less scared!
i know this is an old video but thank you for posting your opinion. we had to replace a wax ring a couple years ago and it's already leaking again. i am certain it was because of our slipshod diy attempt, so we may have to give this a shot.
I am with you on the comment in your description regarding the long term of this product, if it will corrode and break down. Never the less I am going to trade out the item I purchased for installing our new toilet after watching your video and try the foam, instead of the wax I had planned on using with our older than dirt cast iron flange and pipes! Thx for sharing your thoughts on this!
My floor tilts and despite my best efforts, the bowl does shift. The wax ring works for a time but the seal breaks. This product maintains the seal, even if the bowl shifts. It is fantastic for older, settled buildings.
The new foam/rubber rings might be good for rental homes/apartments. Some folks pour hot water in the bowl without flushing right away. I found out it melts the wax.
You appear to be a professional plumber. On behalf of the community, I'd like to thank you for freely imparting your experience with us and helping the DIYers "flush" away their plumbing issues. See what I did there?
For years, and probably still, the seal between the tank and the bowl was/is foam like this ; pink or black. that's worked well for that application. I'll give this one a go
Wish i seen this video yesterday when i had to replace a toilet and the flange was cocked a little bit . I used the funnel type and an original type on top of each other but this would have been so much easier...... thanks for the video and will use it on other installations
your video was very helpful. the bottom of my toilet is leaking and after watching a few videos i'm pretty sure it has to do with the wax seal. i'm not a plumber, so i don't have the confidence to use a wax seal. i may screw up on the first time i try to set the toilet. i'm not that strong, either, so i doubt it will work out perfect the first time i try. so, thank you. i'm going to get this tomorrow and fix the toilet all by myself!
Good luck! When lifting the toilet into place try standing over it from the front, facing the tank. Then you can lift from the edges and sight down each side to see that the bolts are lining up with the holes.
These work great. My only concern with it is that when the toilet flange is set on top of the finished floor, as it should be, it takes quite a bit of force to compress the foam to the point where the toilet sits flats on the floor and stops rocking. Leaning on it with one side of my body while I screwed on a nut would not completely compress the foam for me. It seems to be made with enough room to handle flanges that are (incorrectly) seated below the floor level. It has a goof factor for the DIY crowd and lazy plumbers. I've worried about cracking the porcelain, because I had to screw the bolts more than hand tight and more than I felt comfortable to keep the toilet on the floor and stop rocking. I was relieved when it didn't crack.
I agree--I don't use these except for unique circumstances where a wax seal isn't working well or when I know the toilet will be off and on several times. The porcelain is probably sturdier than you think. I've never cracked one by tightening the bolts and when I throw old ones six feet off my truck onto a concrete floor at the transfer station, sometimes they don't even crack then!
I agree. Installed one where the flange is sitting on the finished floor and cannot get the toilet to sit flush with all my bodyweight on it. I like the idea, but need to make a thinner one for correct set flanges
When I remoed our only bathroom last year I saw this and figured it would be good since I had to put the toilet back every night. It worked very well. Only thing is by the end of the week when I was finishing it started to tear so when I put the toilet on for good I used a wax ring which I had also bought when I bought this because I wasnt sure about it at the time. But I would probably have kept it if it hadnt torn.
Thanks for a great video. I’m about to set a new toilet in a new basement bathroom, directly on the slab and with a slightly cocked flange. I’m sold. The only reservation I have is that this is also an offset flange so I’m thinking I might need to customize the shape of the “funnel” a bit.
I wonder if the Sani-seal unit will hold up well after using cleaning fluids to clean the toilet? Anybody have any info on this? Excellent video by the way. Thanks for sharing!
downhilltwofour00 truthfully you’re gonna a have to search that specifically but I’m sure as to how many people are using it I bet Lysol and comet or anything else you may want to use probably has no affect overall it’s gonna be rinsed off pretty fast if you think about how a toilet works nothing sits on the seal it’s quickly rushes through after enough water let’s it vacuum over the “p” or “u” trap
A lot of people complain of the thin plastic coating on the sani-seal breaking or getting punctured which makes the foam in the inside become waterlogged. The thing becomes deformed at that point. It's a problem the company knows about.
Yes, I've read the same complaints. As I've said, I don't use these foam seals as my main go-to. I sill prefer the wax. However, I've seen plenty of wax seals with improper installation too. Either way, you need to install the seals with some degree of competence and care. I've used the same foam seal to repeatedly install and remove a toilet when it was the only bath in the house and it didn't tear. So, I know it can be installed carefully without too much trouble. I've also seen homeowners and clueless handymen install wax seals improperly by choosing the wrong size for the application, by moving the toilet after the wax was crushed, or by misaligning the ring during installation. The result was a leak. The lesson is that all seal types must be installed well to work well.
My floor has heating coils in it and the tile floor isn't flat. I replaced the wax ring with another wax ring and I bolted the toilet to the floor as securely as I could. After a few uses, however, the toilet rocked a bit and I added some wood shims between the floor and toilet. After a month, however, the toilet started to leak again. Tomorrow I go shopping for one of these babies.
Let's unpack this a little more. First, it is a known problem that radiant heating can actually melt wax rings, which is why electric or forced water radiant heat is not supposed to be located under or near the toilet. As for your rocking throne, there are some tricks to fix that. First, you should make certain your toilet flange is securely screwed to the floor. There are repair rings available if needed. Second, you should be using plastic shims, not wood. You can buy small ones intended for toilet use, or larger ones in the door and window section of your box store. Third, once the toilet is leveled and bolted to the flange, you need to seal the edge to the floor, which also helps keep it in place. Silicone sealant is fine, but for tiled baths I will grout the edge of the toilet. It looks much better and it also provides a solid foundation for instances when the floor is not dead flat. You can match the color of the existing tile grout, of course.
Interesting! First time hearing about this product, I have always picked up the funnel kind of wax rings as well. I probably would have thought this was kinda a gimmic item too if I had gone to the store and seen them on the shelf.
+Mopardude My only concern is long term use. Will cleaning chemicals cause a problem over the long haul? Will the foam eventually lose it's form? I don't know. I'll probably stick with wax for most projects and maybe try this when circumstances make it attractive.
Just installed one on my downstairs toilet after i saw water coming up through the bolt holes. Ill keep an eye out and see how this ends up working out. Day 1 good so far
Keep a close eye. If plumbed correctly and if there is no clog, there really shouldn't be any reason for water to be backing up. I have seen, though, where older marginal plumbing design and newer toilets with more velocity to their flush have become a problem.
Fernco 4 in. 3 X 4 in. Wax Free Toilet Seal is ribbed and is force sealed inside the drain pipe. BY FAR the most superior and cleanest toilet seal available
I haven't seen that one yet. I did notice that in the last year or two there has been a whole bunch of new products both for flange repair and for seals. Honestly, I still use wax rings with a funnel and I'm happy enough with that solution still.
krn14242 we have a one bathroom house and I literally have a 'pot to piss in' that my mother used to use as a planter. Have never used it but it's better than a mayonnaise jar or a Folgers can (which are now plastic and only 1 lb size). Fun trivia...that phrase came from the time when leather was tanned with urine. People could make a few cents when they sold their urine but only if they had a pot to piss in. Really poor people did not.
Thanks for the advice, I thought it could be a venting problem. I will look on the roof vent and start there. Newer Toilets are out we had these for a while with no problems. Thanks again for the reply.
When a shower is being used and a toilet is flushed sometimes water will back-up the through the bottom of the toilets. This happens in both bathrooms. 3 bedroom 2 bath house. Looking down the clean out the water flows as it should. Any thoughts as to what is wrong?
Do you mean that you see water flowing from under the base of the toilet where it rests on the floor? And, it only happens when the shower is running? If so, the venting would be suspect. Every trap and every toilet in the house should have a vent which eventually leads to a pipe through the roof. Some fixtures may a share a vent if it is sized correctly. If these vents become clogged (bees nests, dead rats, debris or muck inside the pipe where the vent attaches) then there is no longer make-up air to allow the water to flow properly. Without venting the water may flow slowly and with the shower running the marginal venting may be overwhelmed. A clog in the main drain pipe or near that pipe is also a possibility. The shower water may again take up what little drainage capacity there is and when the toilet is flushed it has nowhere to go. If you recently had newer toilets installed, they likely are flushing with more velocity than the older style and that can also compound the problem. All you can do is look and/or snake the vents from the room and any cleanouts you can find. Many plumbing companies also have specialized tools to view or clear inside pipes. Removing a toilet, running the shower and watching while you poor a five gallon bucket down the hole may also help you find the issue.
pretty sure foam will eventually leak, just like any seal that loses elasticity. Main thing is get flange square at correct height. Use silicone to exclude air from metal rings.
Well, as I said in the video, I still use wax seals most of the time. However, these foam seals are quite a tight fit and I have little doubt they will maintain the seal over time. Some have indicated they believe the foam soaks up water over time, but I wonder if the seal is torn during installation in that instance. It takes quite a lot of downward pressure to seat the toilet with these seals, and possibly a lot of jostling around could be a problem.
Just as a follow-up to this comment, I used this foam ring and it made all the difference in the world! I ended up having to reset the toilet a few times because the area where my toilet sits is very tight. It I had a wax ring, it would have been money wasted. Thanks again for this video.
I have a Stephen jones 3"x4" PVC offset flange which has an oval opening, would you recommend the Foam ring vs. wax ring? Pros and cons etc. Thanks for your help.
Just to clarify for others, the flange is the same circular outside dimension on an offset flange. However, instead of the internal pipe dropping straight into the drain pipe, there is an offset. The point of this special flange is to allow connection to the drain pipe when there are fitment problems with framing or when there is some other difficulty getting the flange to connect with the drainpipe. Offset flanges are only used when all other possibilities are exhausted. Since there isn't a clear shot into the drain pipe you are effectively narrowing or constricting the internal size of the pipe, which means it will be less efficient at clearing. That may or may not present a problem, and the danger is that solids will not clear quickly enough, which could result in water backing up behind the solids and overflowing at the flange-toilet connection. So, would a foam gasket be better able to resist such a backup? Well, drains are not intended to be used under pressure. That includes a foam seal. My preference is always the wax seal over a foam seal, and that's still what I use the vast majority of the time. You could make an argument that a foam seal would resist backpressure more effectively than a wax seal, and that may be correct. However, some water is likely still going to leak out and that's still a problem. So what, really, have you bought yourself by pretending that a foam seal offers better protection? A little water will rot the wood subfloor as effectively as a lot of water. My advice would be to use whichever seal you feel comfortable using, but recognize that you don;t have a standard installation. If you can minimize that toilet to liquids rather than solids, I would do so. And, it wouldn't be a bad idea after a year or two to pull the toilet up and just check that you aren't getting leaks. I can recall one bath remodel I did where I was stuck and had to use an offset flange. I took special precaution there to seal the wood subfloor and underlayment and cause any water that escaped to stay on top of the tile. Though code does require sealing the edge of the toilet, I leave a couple of inches in the back unsealed so that if there is a water leak it will escape into the room, hopefully to be noticed by the homeowner.
Only years of time and experience will tell. I still use the wax seals in most instances, but for some circumstances and for amateurs the foam is a viable option.
I have a flange which is slightly below the floor, and I tried a normal wax ring and an extra-thick, reinforced wax ring, and both leaked. I decided to try the Sani Seal waxless ring you showed in your video, and ended up having to stack two of them on top of each other (as the package says you can do). So far, so good! No leaks. I also would give this waxless ring two-thumbs up. I put a bead of caulk between the two rings for good measure, since I'm a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy, but that probably is overkill. YMMV.
I'm glad it's working, but I wish you had seen my other video about toilet flange heights. There are means to raise the flange to the correct height before you install the ring. Take a look at that video if you have further trouble.
I find these are hit or miss. If you have marginal gaps (a little under 1/2" flange above floor) between flange and floor and cant get the correct seating of bowl on flange it kind of wobbles. Didn't have this problem with wax that forms necessary gap to seal water without impacting bowl sitting on floor/flange. Just my experience.
A plumber with 30 years experience told me not to use anything but wax. He claimed every house he went into to fix leaks, were using alternate rings like this. Stick with what works.
I agree that wax is best, assuming you use a ring with a built-in funnel. That's what I use the vast majority of the time. In unique circumstances, though, this is another option.
Upgrading my toilet and I have the chance to put a new seal, I have the same idea of sticking with wax (don't re-invent the wheel) but this product does seem good... in a very normal circumstance, should I use this?
another quick question, if my flange is broken, can I use a repair ring and screw it on top of the existing flange? Or should I go through the process of removing the old flange and putting a new one in? www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Oatey-Stainless-Steel-Replacement-Flange-Ring-427782/303864005 - that
That depends on the type of flange (was the original cast iron, PVC, PVC-Steel hybrid, etc.) and how damaged it is. The condition of the underlayment and subfloor are also a consideration if the new screws won't hold. I'd recommend finding a local plumbing supply store rather than Home Cheapo, though, because the the plumbing supply store will have far more options as far as repair flanges and expert advice as well.
I still use wax rings for most installations. Actually, the cleaners that sit in the tank (in the form of tablets, pucks or hanging bottles) are bad news in general. The heavy chlorine and whatever else is in them will eat away at the seals and valves in the toilet. I advise clients not to use them at all.
enduringcharm only used those in the tank tablets once and soon after had issues. I started to notice very very blue green seepage. The drop in was not blue though. I think I'm dealing with a metal issue...like deteriorating brass screws. Will find out today. Am going to attempt to fix myself with my plumber on speed dial. Got a different kind of ring not wax but silicone. May return to Home Cheapo and get this kind. Only because my floors are not the most level and other videos mention that this kind is seal may be better. And that securing of the upright screws is a game changer when doing this yourself. I can hear me swearing now trying to do this alone.
Do you know yet how these hold up? We were going to try one instead of the wax ring because it looked easier. Somebody on YT said that if the shiny lamenated coating cracked that the inside was like a sponge and just soaked up water. Now I don't know what to do. HELP
I do still prefer the wax rings with incorporated funnel. They aren't that hard to install, so I do recommend you try that route first. I've heard the stories of failed foam too, but so far have not experienced the issue.
Seems like no matter how I shim or curse at my toilet it will not NOT stay still. All the rocking around leads to wax deformation and leaks. The spring back feature on this may be just the ticket...
A foam seal may help, but I'd rather see you address the root cause. There are two primary reasons a toilet won't stay put. First, the toilet pipe flange may not be screwed down to the floor securely or it may be broken. Since the toilet bolts to the flange, a broken or loose flange is a problem! They make all sorts of special repair flanges which can be used over the existing broken one if you need it. If the existing one is just loose, then using different sized or additional screws should secure the flange to the floor. The other common problem is an uneven floor, which doesn't allow the toilet itself to properly seat at it's base. Shims can help you get the toilet level and seated, but that's not all you need. From that point I like to use the same grout that is used on the floor tile (if the bath is tiled) and grout completely around the toilet base, which will hold the shims in place and also provide additional support. Once the grout dries, that toilet isn't going anywhere. You can remove the grout with a scraper if the toilet ever needs replacing. If the floor is not tiled, you can use silicone caulk to accomplish the same task, going heavy underneath the toilet but wiping it clean at the very edge. In any case, all toilets are supposed to be sealed around the base anyway, according to code. So, when you next remove your toilet, use a foam seal if you like, but check these other issues too.
Some people have reported that certain cleaning products would create the problem you describe, but I have also read that the problem was a temporary issue since resolved by manufacturers. I have not witnessed the problem myself. In any case, I also still prefer wax rings, though the foam is great for temporary use.
I just pulled off a toilet that had this in use and the surrounding floor area was all wet. Not sure what happened but we will try this again after the floor area dries and see we reinstall the foam ring.
Thanks! I’m a rookie, the green thing seems easier. I’ll pay the extra five bucks. Probably save me money anyway cause I’m probably ruining the first couple wax rings I do
frank sieckmann - Yea Frank things can go wrong when installing wax seal; I hear that. The one the plumbers put in lasted about 2 years and the one I put in lasted less than a year. One problem I noticed is that the weak ABS flange is tweeked upward on one side thus the toilet is slightly off center on the wax. Also when I set the toilet by myself I was jossling it around and most likely shifted the wax seal out of place. If I use wax again I will stick it in the waste line instead of on the bottom of the bowl.
Tried this after watching video and unfortunately it does not compress enough to prevent toilet from wobbling-it’s not thin enough. Had to go back to wax.
No, the built in funnels don't cause clogs. First, you really have to work at it to clog a modern toilet manufactured in the last, say, ten years. They are much better engineered than in previous decades. Second, if a clog occurs it's in the porcelain trap, not the funnel. The trap is a more restrictive opening than the funnel of the wax ring, so if it gets that far it's going down! Third, the built-in funnel is preferred because it directs water down into the pipe even if the wax doesn't seal perfectly. I don't know a single plumber who still uses a plain wax ring anymore.
What is a "little" high? You can try seating the toilet without any wax ring at all and see if it stays flat. If it does, then try using a wax ring without the funnel and it may work. Sometimes the built-in plastic funnel of the wax rings prevents fell seating when the flange is high. If it still rocks a bit, you can use plastic shims to level the toilet and then grout around the edge of the toilet using the same grout you used for the floor tile.
Cool...i got to replace the toilet..the cap from my shaving cream fell from my cab into trap its wedged and not buging and its avalve efect the way its weged in the trap and i snaked it 5 times no luck
You should have a healthy dose of skepticism with any review on any product on any interweb site. Some are actual fakes, some are ill-informed, some have ulterior motives. As I've said many times, I still primarily use wax rings but I present the foam product as an option for some circumstances. It may not be for you. I've also read the stories of supposed failure, but I've not seen any myself in the field.
I just remodeled my bathroom and the plain wax ring on the toilet had simply dissolved. It was leaking but did not rock.
I tried this green Sanii Seal gasket and it worked a treat. It really made reseating the toilet easy because it holds the bolts up straight. It allows multiple repositions and makes a tight seal with a leak-proof funnel. It's much tougher than a wax seal.
Time will tell on its reliability, but I was impressed with it.
I used this Sani Seal product when I installed a new toilet, a few years ago. It's worked great. Not a single problem since I installed it.
I have use 5 of these in our home and they are fantastic. I would never use a wax ring again! I started using these because I replaced a toilet in the basement with a wax ring after just a few days I notice a faint sewer gas aroma. The floor was tiled and it was higher than the flange causing the wax ring to leak sewer gas. I found these saniseal rings and they compressed down and around the flange (unlike a wax ring). Iv also read of people having the same issue with a gap so big that they had to use two of these foam rings on top of each other and it worked beautifully. I recently replaced a floor in our bathroom that I had put a new toilet in using a saniseal ring about two years ago. It was so nice to just remove the toilet put down the new flooring and then reinstall the toilet using the same saniseal ring. The ring was is perfect shape. It was also really nice to not have to scrape off all the nasty old wax from a wax ring.
I have watched about 30 videos to get the right explanation. Finally saw yours and really answered all my questions. Thanks man!!!
I just remodeled our bathroom and had to put toilet temporarily,prior to that the toilet was replaced and one of these similar seals were used.
After i remove the toilet and kept working on the remodeling never had any issues even without any bolts on it.
Product is really great.
newbie here, used this and I am amazed. My plumbing also had a older, bigger 5 inch opening and this fits it like a champ. In my youth, I watched and helped my dad for years struggle with wax rings. hard to believe this a relatively new idea in toilet seals. never going back to wax, its pointless and messy now.
The flange on my toilet is uneven. This caused issues with the wax ring. Tried this product and so far so good. The best part was that I had to move the toilet a bit while installing it and unlike a wax ring, it held up very well.
For the doubters I used one 10 years ago on my master bathroom, it’s still holding up.
Ben, it's good to see someone confirm long term durability of this product. Do you know how it holds up to cleaning chemicals (bleach vs. non-bleach)?
I've been using these SaniSeals for 4 years and love the fact that we can remove and reinstall the toilet a few times without clearing off wax and placing a new wax ring. Many times We have to have working toilets in my remodel properties, and so we'll pull one off to tile the floor, then put it back afterwards. sometimes we decide to change out a vanity and need the space and have to pull the toilet temporarily and replace it. Love the guide holes to hold the toilet bolts straight upward, it allows me to place a toilet by myself by standing over it.
Agreed--when you need to remove and replace a toilet several times these really cone in handy. And, for rental properties where it's likely that a toilet will be replaced in a few years anyway, these will save time.
jeffostroff no leaks jeff?
Thank you for info on this bc I am looking at having to remove and replace toilet several times, and was wondering/dreading wax ring!
Unknown issues may await me, but I somehow feel better about multiple removal/replacements after your video! Thanks again, I'm a lot less scared!
i know this is an old video but thank you for posting your opinion. we had to replace a wax ring a couple years ago and it's already leaking again. i am certain it was because of our slipshod diy attempt, so we may have to give this a shot.
We've had them in both our bathrooms for several years, also swapped out toilets in one of them two years ago and reused the seal with no issues
I am with you on the comment in your description regarding the long term of this product, if it will corrode and break down. Never the less I am going to trade out the item I purchased for installing our new toilet after watching your video and try the foam, instead of the wax I had planned on using with our older than dirt cast iron flange and pipes! Thx for sharing your thoughts on this!
I like this product a lot too. I have used a couple of them and am sold on it.
My floor tilts and despite my best efforts, the bowl does shift. The wax ring works for a time but the seal breaks. This product maintains the seal, even if the bowl shifts. It is fantastic for older, settled buildings.
Gordon Adams just curious, have you tried putting shims?
The new foam/rubber rings might be good for rental homes/apartments. Some folks pour hot water in the bowl without flushing right away. I found out it melts the wax.
You appear to be a professional plumber. On behalf of the community, I'd like to thank you for freely imparting your experience with us and helping the DIYers "flush" away their plumbing issues. See what I did there?
Actually, I'm a remodeler, but I do this sort of thing all day long.
For years, and probably still, the seal between the tank and the bowl was/is foam like this ; pink or black. that's worked well for that application. I'll give this one a go
I've been watching a lot of your videos recently, thank you for the quality content and knowledge!
Wish i seen this video yesterday when i had to replace a toilet and the flange was cocked a little bit . I used the funnel type and an original type on top of each other but this would have been so much easier...... thanks for the video and will use it on other installations
Listening to the old plumbers complain is just fear speaking through them. This is a great product .
your video was very helpful. the bottom of my toilet is leaking and after watching a few videos i'm pretty sure it has to do with the wax seal. i'm not a plumber, so i don't have the confidence to use a wax seal. i may screw up on the first time i try to set the toilet. i'm not that strong, either, so i doubt it will work out perfect the first time i try. so, thank you. i'm going to get this tomorrow and fix the toilet all by myself!
Good luck! When lifting the toilet into place try standing over it from the front, facing the tank. Then you can lift from the edges and sight down each side to see that the bolts are lining up with the holes.
These work great. My only concern with it is that when the toilet flange is set on top of the finished floor, as it should be, it takes quite a bit of force to compress the foam to the point where the toilet sits flats on the floor and stops rocking. Leaning on it with one side of my body while I screwed on a nut would not completely compress the foam for me. It seems to be made with enough room to handle flanges that are (incorrectly) seated below the floor level. It has a goof factor for the DIY crowd and lazy plumbers. I've worried about cracking the porcelain, because I had to screw the bolts more than hand tight and more than I felt comfortable to keep the toilet on the floor and stop rocking. I was relieved when it didn't crack.
I agree--I don't use these except for unique circumstances where a wax seal isn't working well or when I know the toilet will be off and on several times. The porcelain is probably sturdier than you think. I've never cracked one by tightening the bolts and when I throw old ones six feet off my truck onto a concrete floor at the transfer station, sometimes they don't even crack then!
I agree. Installed one where the flange is sitting on the finished floor and cannot get the toilet to sit flush with all my bodyweight on it. I like the idea, but need to make a thinner one for correct set flanges
When I remoed our only bathroom last year I saw this and figured it would be good since I had to put the toilet back every night. It worked very well. Only thing is by the end of the week when I was finishing it started to tear so when I put the toilet on for good I used a wax ring which I had also bought when I bought this because I wasnt sure about it at the time. But I would probably have kept it if it hadnt torn.
Thanks for a great video. I’m about to set a new toilet in a new basement bathroom, directly on the slab and with a slightly cocked flange. I’m sold. The only reservation I have is that this is also an offset flange so I’m thinking I might need to customize the shape of the “funnel” a bit.
Great for a heated floor as well.
I wonder if the Sani-seal unit will hold up well after using cleaning fluids to clean the toilet? Anybody have any info on this? Excellent video by the way. Thanks for sharing!
downhilltwofour00 truthfully you’re gonna a have to search that specifically but I’m sure as to how many people are using it I bet Lysol and comet or anything else you may want to use probably has no affect overall it’s gonna be rinsed off pretty fast if you think about how a toilet works nothing sits on the seal it’s quickly rushes through after enough water let’s it vacuum over the “p” or “u” trap
Started using these about 6 years ago. Like this one better than the fluid master type.
A lot of people complain of the thin plastic coating on the sani-seal breaking or getting punctured which makes the foam in the inside become waterlogged. The thing becomes deformed at that point. It's a problem the company knows about.
Yes, I've read the same complaints. As I've said, I don't use these foam seals as my main go-to. I sill prefer the wax. However, I've seen plenty of wax seals with improper installation too. Either way, you need to install the seals with some degree of competence and care. I've used the same foam seal to repeatedly install and remove a toilet when it was the only bath in the house and it didn't tear. So, I know it can be installed carefully without too much trouble. I've also seen homeowners and clueless handymen install wax seals improperly by choosing the wrong size for the application, by moving the toilet after the wax was crushed, or by misaligning the ring during installation. The result was a leak. The lesson is that all seal types must be installed well to work well.
Thank you Sir for this video sani seal I’m going to try it.
Again thank you Sir
My floor has heating coils in it and the tile floor isn't flat. I replaced the wax ring with another wax ring and I bolted the toilet to the floor as securely as I could. After a few uses, however, the toilet rocked a bit and I added some wood shims between the floor and toilet. After a month, however, the toilet started to leak again. Tomorrow I go shopping for one of these babies.
Let's unpack this a little more. First, it is a known problem that radiant heating can actually melt wax rings, which is why electric or forced water radiant heat is not supposed to be located under or near the toilet. As for your rocking throne, there are some tricks to fix that. First, you should make certain your toilet flange is securely screwed to the floor. There are repair rings available if needed. Second, you should be using plastic shims, not wood. You can buy small ones intended for toilet use, or larger ones in the door and window section of your box store. Third, once the toilet is leveled and bolted to the flange, you need to seal the edge to the floor, which also helps keep it in place. Silicone sealant is fine, but for tiled baths I will grout the edge of the toilet. It looks much better and it also provides a solid foundation for instances when the floor is not dead flat. You can match the color of the existing tile grout, of course.
Interesting! First time hearing about this product, I have always picked up the funnel kind of wax rings as well. I probably would have thought this was kinda a gimmic item too if I had gone to the store and seen them on the shelf.
+Mopardude My only concern is long term use. Will cleaning chemicals cause a problem over the long haul? Will the foam eventually lose it's form? I don't know. I'll probably stick with wax for most projects and maybe try this when circumstances make it attractive.
enduringcharm
I was kinda wondering the same thing. Like you said its nice to have options for the hard jobs.
Just installed one on my downstairs toilet after i saw water coming up through the bolt holes. Ill keep an eye out and see how this ends up working out. Day 1 good so far
Keep a close eye. If plumbed correctly and if there is no clog, there really shouldn't be any reason for water to be backing up. I have seen, though, where older marginal plumbing design and newer toilets with more velocity to their flush have become a problem.
Fernco 4 in. 3 X 4 in. Wax Free Toilet Seal is ribbed and is force sealed inside the drain pipe. BY FAR the most superior and cleanest toilet seal available
I haven't seen that one yet. I did notice that in the last year or two there has been a whole bunch of new products both for flange repair and for seals. Honestly, I still use wax rings with a funnel and I'm happy enough with that solution still.
interesting... ive messed up before and had to make a mad dash to the home cheapo myself...
Funny, needed a pot to piss in. lol. I have seen these in the store and always wondered how good they work. Thanks for the review.
krn14242 we have a one bathroom house and I literally have a 'pot to piss in' that my mother used to use as a planter. Have never used it but it's better than a mayonnaise jar or a Folgers can (which are now plastic and only 1 lb size). Fun trivia...that phrase came from the time when leather was tanned with urine. People could make a few cents when they sold their urine but only if they had a pot to piss in. Really poor people did not.
Thanks for the advice, I thought it could be a venting problem. I will look on the roof vent and start there. Newer Toilets are out we had these for a while with no problems. Thanks again for the reply.
When a shower is being used and a toilet is flushed sometimes water will back-up the through the bottom of the toilets. This happens in both bathrooms. 3 bedroom 2 bath house. Looking down the clean out the water flows as it should. Any thoughts as to what is wrong?
Do you mean that you see water flowing from under the base of the toilet where it rests on the floor? And, it only happens when the shower is running? If so, the venting would be suspect. Every trap and every toilet in the house should have a vent which eventually leads to a pipe through the roof. Some fixtures may a share a vent if it is sized correctly. If these vents become clogged (bees nests, dead rats, debris or muck inside the pipe where the vent attaches) then there is no longer make-up air to allow the water to flow properly. Without venting the water may flow slowly and with the shower running the marginal venting may be overwhelmed. A clog in the main drain pipe or near that pipe is also a possibility. The shower water may again take up what little drainage capacity there is and when the toilet is flushed it has nowhere to go. If you recently had newer toilets installed, they likely are flushing with more velocity than the older style and that can also compound the problem. All you can do is look and/or snake the vents from the room and any cleanouts you can find. Many plumbing companies also have specialized tools to view or clear inside pipes. Removing a toilet, running the shower and watching while you poor a five gallon bucket down the hole may also help you find the issue.
pretty sure foam will eventually leak, just like any seal that loses elasticity. Main thing is get flange square at correct height. Use silicone to exclude air from metal rings.
Well, as I said in the video, I still use wax seals most of the time. However, these foam seals are quite a tight fit and I have little doubt they will maintain the seal over time. Some have indicated they believe the foam soaks up water over time, but I wonder if the seal is torn during installation in that instance. It takes quite a lot of downward pressure to seat the toilet with these seals, and possibly a lot of jostling around could be a problem.
Thanks for this video! I was about to take the foam seal back but your video and review helped me make the decision to keep it.
Just as a follow-up to this comment, I used this foam ring and it made all the difference in the world! I ended up having to reset the toilet a few times because the area where my toilet sits is very tight. It I had a wax ring, it would have been money wasted. Thanks again for this video.
I have a Stephen jones 3"x4" PVC offset flange which has an oval opening, would you recommend the Foam ring vs. wax ring? Pros and cons etc. Thanks for your help.
Just to clarify for others, the flange is the same circular outside dimension on an offset flange. However, instead of the internal pipe dropping straight into the drain pipe, there is an offset. The point of this special flange is to allow connection to the drain pipe when there are fitment problems with framing or when there is some other difficulty getting the flange to connect with the drainpipe. Offset flanges are only used when all other possibilities are exhausted. Since there isn't a clear shot into the drain pipe you are effectively narrowing or constricting the internal size of the pipe, which means it will be less efficient at clearing. That may or may not present a problem, and the danger is that solids will not clear quickly enough, which could result in water backing up behind the solids and overflowing at the flange-toilet connection.
So, would a foam gasket be better able to resist such a backup? Well, drains are not intended to be used under pressure. That includes a foam seal. My preference is always the wax seal over a foam seal, and that's still what I use the vast majority of the time. You could make an argument that a foam seal would resist backpressure more effectively than a wax seal, and that may be correct. However, some water is likely still going to leak out and that's still a problem. So what, really, have you bought yourself by pretending that a foam seal offers better protection? A little water will rot the wood subfloor as effectively as a lot of water. My advice would be to use whichever seal you feel comfortable using, but recognize that you don;t have a standard installation. If you can minimize that toilet to liquids rather than solids, I would do so. And, it wouldn't be a bad idea after a year or two to pull the toilet up and just check that you aren't getting leaks. I can recall one bath remodel I did where I was stuck and had to use an offset flange. I took special precaution there to seal the wood subfloor and underlayment and cause any water that escaped to stay on top of the tile. Though code does require sealing the edge of the toilet, I leave a couple of inches in the back unsealed so that if there is a water leak it will escape into the room, hopefully to be noticed by the homeowner.
Only thing I would wonder about is how long will it be before the rubber or foam starts to deteriorate.
Only years of time and experience will tell. I still use the wax seals in most instances, but for some circumstances and for amateurs the foam is a viable option.
I have a flange which is slightly below the floor, and I tried a normal wax ring and an extra-thick, reinforced wax ring, and both leaked. I decided to try the Sani Seal waxless ring you showed in your video, and ended up having to stack two of them on top of each other (as the package says you can do). So far, so good! No leaks. I also would give this waxless ring two-thumbs up.
I put a bead of caulk between the two rings for good measure, since I'm a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy, but that probably is overkill. YMMV.
I'm glad it's working, but I wish you had seen my other video about toilet flange heights. There are means to raise the flange to the correct height before you install the ring. Take a look at that video if you have further trouble.
Thanks! I'll check it out.
I find these are hit or miss. If you have marginal gaps (a little under 1/2" flange above floor) between flange and floor and cant get the correct seating of bowl on flange it kind of wobbles. Didn't have this problem with wax that forms necessary gap to seal water without impacting bowl sitting on floor/flange. Just my experience.
A plumber with 30 years experience told me not to use anything but wax. He claimed every house he went into to fix leaks, were using alternate rings like this. Stick with what works.
I agree that wax is best, assuming you use a ring with a built-in funnel. That's what I use the vast majority of the time. In unique circumstances, though, this is another option.
Hi all, I wonder if it's a good idea to add some caulking along the edge of this ring to make absolute sure it won't leak??? Thank you
An old plumber told me never use silicone or caulk on this type of ring. If you ever have to replace it cleanup is a nightmare.
Upgrading my toilet and I have the chance to put a new seal, I have the same idea of sticking with wax (don't re-invent the wheel) but this product does seem good... in a very normal circumstance, should I use this?
I still use the wax seal with the integrated funnel unless there is special circumstances. It remains the best choice for all typical installations.
@@enduringcharm ok great, thanks for the reply!
another quick question, if my flange is broken, can I use a repair ring and screw it on top of the existing flange? Or should I go through the process of removing the old flange and putting a new one in? www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Oatey-Stainless-Steel-Replacement-Flange-Ring-427782/303864005 - that
That depends on the type of flange (was the original cast iron, PVC, PVC-Steel hybrid, etc.) and how damaged it is. The condition of the underlayment and subfloor are also a consideration if the new screws won't hold. I'd recommend finding a local plumbing supply store rather than Home Cheapo, though, because the the plumbing supply store will have far more options as far as repair flanges and expert advice as well.
I’d be afraid that over time toilet bowl cleaners would deteriorate that foam ring. I will still with the tried and true wax ring.
I still use wax rings for most installations. Actually, the cleaners that sit in the tank (in the form of tablets, pucks or hanging bottles) are bad news in general. The heavy chlorine and whatever else is in them will eat away at the seals and valves in the toilet. I advise clients not to use them at all.
enduringcharm only used those in the tank tablets once and soon after had issues. I started to notice very very blue green seepage. The drop in was not blue though. I think I'm dealing with a metal issue...like deteriorating brass screws. Will find out today. Am going to attempt to fix myself with my plumber on speed dial. Got a different kind of ring not wax but silicone. May return to Home Cheapo and get this kind. Only because my floors are not the most level and other videos mention that this kind is seal may be better. And that securing of the upright screws is a game changer when doing this yourself. I can hear me swearing now trying to do this alone.
@@enduringcharm what do you recommend for cleaning toilets (once a month)? Also, do you have any long term durability information?
What if the flange sits slightly below the surface of the floor? For example, if it sits on concrete sub floor and the toilet sits on tile?
Well, have I got a video for you! ruclips.net/video/DixhpVg9o40/видео.html
"Home Cheapot" lmfao
For septic too?
Septic or municipal sewer doesn't matter.
What if the flange is below the tile floor would this ring seal ok?
No, if it's below the tile you should raise the flange up using spacers first. Se my video here:
ruclips.net/video/DixhpVg9o40/видео.html
Thank you for the informative video. It helped, for sure.
Thank you...
Do you know yet how these hold up? We were going to try one instead of the wax ring because it looked easier. Somebody on YT said that if the shiny lamenated coating cracked that the inside was like a sponge and just soaked up water. Now I don't know what to do. HELP
I do still prefer the wax rings with incorporated funnel. They aren't that hard to install, so I do recommend you try that route first. I've heard the stories of failed foam too, but so far have not experienced the issue.
Thank you for the answering so fast.
Seems like no matter how I shim or curse at my toilet it will not NOT stay still. All the rocking around leads to wax deformation and leaks. The spring back feature on this may be just the ticket...
A foam seal may help, but I'd rather see you address the root cause. There are two primary reasons a toilet won't stay put. First, the toilet pipe flange may not be screwed down to the floor securely or it may be broken. Since the toilet bolts to the flange, a broken or loose flange is a problem! They make all sorts of special repair flanges which can be used over the existing broken one if you need it. If the existing one is just loose, then using different sized or additional screws should secure the flange to the floor. The other common problem is an uneven floor, which doesn't allow the toilet itself to properly seat at it's base. Shims can help you get the toilet level and seated, but that's not all you need. From that point I like to use the same grout that is used on the floor tile (if the bath is tiled) and grout completely around the toilet base, which will hold the shims in place and also provide additional support. Once the grout dries, that toilet isn't going anywhere. You can remove the grout with a scraper if the toilet ever needs replacing. If the floor is not tiled, you can use silicone caulk to accomplish the same task, going heavy underneath the toilet but wiping it clean at the very edge. In any case, all toilets are supposed to be sealed around the base anyway, according to code. So, when you next remove your toilet, use a foam seal if you like, but check these other issues too.
enduringcharm yeah the floor is uneven, and the shims keep slipping, I will try the grout though, thank you.
Excellent answer. Thanks for the information.
Use plastic shims
Been there tried that. The latex or whatever coating on the foam failed, ring filled with fanky squat water. Back to the wax.
Some people have reported that certain cleaning products would create the problem you describe, but I have also read that the problem was a temporary issue since resolved by manufacturers. I have not witnessed the problem myself. In any case, I also still prefer wax rings, though the foam is great for temporary use.
I just pulled off a toilet that had this in use and the surrounding floor area was all wet. Not sure what happened but we will try this again after the floor area dries and see we reinstall the foam ring.
Will this fit a 5" opening for my camper toilet?
I'm afraid camper toilets are above my pay grade! Maybe somebody else knows...
Home cheapo... that nugget was worth my 7 minutes alone.
Ha! I got a million of 'em!
Thanks! I’m a rookie, the green thing seems easier. I’ll pay the extra five bucks. Probably save me money anyway cause I’m probably ruining the first couple wax rings I do
frank sieckmann - Yea Frank things can go wrong when installing wax seal; I hear that. The one the plumbers put in lasted about 2 years and the one I put in lasted less than a year. One problem I noticed is that the weak ABS flange is tweeked upward on one side thus the toilet is slightly off center on the wax. Also when I set the toilet by myself I was jossling it around and most likely shifted the wax seal out of place. If I use wax again I will stick it in the waste line instead of on the bottom of the bowl.
Tried this after watching video and unfortunately it does not compress enough to prevent toilet from wobbling-it’s not thin enough. Had to go back to wax.
Sounds like your flange is a little higher off the floor than it should be.
They also make plastic shims for when the floor is uneven or the flange is up to high.
ive heard that the funnel causes more clogs by other plumbers. hmmm
No, the built in funnels don't cause clogs. First, you really have to work at it to clog a modern toilet manufactured in the last, say, ten years. They are much better engineered than in previous decades. Second, if a clog occurs it's in the porcelain trap, not the funnel. The trap is a more restrictive opening than the funnel of the wax ring, so if it gets that far it's going down! Third, the built-in funnel is preferred because it directs water down into the pipe even if the wax doesn't seal perfectly. I don't know a single plumber who still uses a plain wax ring anymore.
Cow patties might get stuck in the funnel!
my flange was a lil high so my toilet rocks back and forth
What is a "little" high? You can try seating the toilet without any wax ring at all and see if it stays flat. If it does, then try using a wax ring without the funnel and it may work. Sometimes the built-in plastic funnel of the wax rings prevents fell seating when the flange is high. If it still rocks a bit, you can use plastic shims to level the toilet and then grout around the edge of the toilet using the same grout you used for the floor tile.
Cool...i got to replace the toilet..the cap from my shaving cream fell from my cab into trap its wedged and not buging and its avalve efect the way its weged in the trap and i snaked it 5 times no luck
These are good..used these before..Can''t stand the wax rings..
i read many 1 star review on amazon.com.... wondering why
You should have a healthy dose of skepticism with any review on any product on any interweb site. Some are actual fakes, some are ill-informed, some have ulterior motives. As I've said many times, I still primarily use wax rings but I present the foam product as an option for some circumstances. It may not be for you. I've also read the stories of supposed failure, but I've not seen any myself in the field.
Like this
Home Cheapo:-):-):-):-)
I used this product on my toilet...I am the idiot who decided to remodel the bathroom with a 7mo pregnant wife
+damasydia You survived, I guess! You must have done something right.
But it's green! Eww!
And your point is?
It’ll be brown soon enough!