It's something else: .0005" smaller or larger main bearing clearance won't cause zero oil pressure. (30 degrees temperature change can cause .0003" size difference on your micrometer)
The low oil pressure at idle is caused by a multiple of factors. Mostly it is a poor rocker design by the manufacturer, but also an aging motor contributes to it. Up until 2006 the rocker arms had a oil pressure relief hole that was about 1/8" in diameter(the same size as the hole in the lifter tip) and pointed strait up out of the rocker. After 2006 they changed the design and made the hole only about a 1/16" and pointed the hole towards the camshaft for better lubrication. This in turn increased the oil pressure in the whole system. As the engine wears, tolerances increase, the oil pressure lowers, and the lifters hydraulic pressure is also reduced. Over time the lifter springs also fatigue and are less effective. The hydraulic pressure from the oil helps combat the fatiguing springs. The 2006 rocker update helps mitigate the loss of oil pressure due to normal wear by increasing the total oil pressure in the system.
I gather an updated rocker is must have. I only have 320k on this engine. Oil pressure drops off at idle. Have to neutral the tranny & keep the rpms up to keep oil pressure. My rockers have the big hole at the top. Perhaps new lifters too?
Man that is some great information I rebuild an engine and didn't last six months I'm rebuilding it again now and I'm just putting the same bearings in standard bearings that I bought at a local shop here so I'm glad I saw this video before I torque down the bed plate
nice job... all too often we go with the recommendation from the machine shop(engine builder) because they're the experts. .. Another case of" if you want it done right... Do it yourself"...👍
I have a 2005 dodge Ram v8 4.7 it’s about to hit 200000 miles with no problem. The engine has been awesome. No problem. I did have it run it rich one time because a muffler place put the wrong muffler . But other than that no problems. But I bought my truck brand new.
Hello there, I ran into the same issue you did with the bearings, ordered according to the tone wheel and when i checked the clearances it was different.. Also for anyone reading this that plans to rebuild the 4.7, DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET TIMMING SET, i gurantee you will be hearing chain slap after about 5k miles and your rockers will start popping off randomly, get the Mopar chains, guides and tentioners, or you will be sorry. Use synthetic 5WXX, not 10WXX in this engine, the clearances are very tight if built correctly, My idle never drops below 20PSI at idle, and dont use the electronic oil pressure gauge either, it will fail eventually from bad connections in the front control module, hook up a mechanicle gauge. Just my 2 cents from my experience from building these engines.
edward johnson i get 15psi at idol on my mechanical gauge. have about 7,000 miles on the motor now and it has held consistent oil pressure across all rpms. 15psi at idol. 40 psi at 1500 rpm or 50MPH, and 60psi at 2000 rpm or 70MPH. a big difference form my 0psi at idol and 10 psi at 2000 rpm before the rebuild.
+edward johnson Yeah all Chrysler tolerances are extremely tight. This is great in an engine but I do have to say since I live in NY the tight tolerances they use on things like axle shafts and so forth on the suspension almost fuse together with rust. I was doing a CV shaft on a 1500 4X4 and the little tiny intermediate shaft in the transfer case got stuck in the shaft and after heating, beating several times (so hot the shaft cup turned cherry red) I had to finally plasma cut a relief cut in the cup and it finally came out. Saved me from waiting on a special order but damn. A lot of people blame the wheel bearing being driven on too long being bad but honestly it is the tight tolerances and driving on it just compounds the problem. I will say Chrysler builds some very nice engines, and some OK trannys. No Engineer can predict the future so thats why I like many different brands of cars. But Chrysler tolerances in their engines are really specific and tells me the engines are just plain awesome. I also like a lot of GM stuff and some Ford stuff. I don't really sway to far from Domestic cars and trucks though. Sounds like you did a nice job on your rebuilds.
A high polish on that crank, wouldn't change the specs very much, but can add as much as 20 horsepower. And making sure you use the cams from a 2008, is worth about 30 horsepower. Just make sure you use the same cam timing plates that came off your engine. And I don't recall what year that is but make sure that you try and use at least a 2006 to 2007 heads they are a bit more beefy.
I'm building a 4.7l now because the #7 & #8 connecting rod bearing got toasted. I got a .10 crank and bearing kit. two new connecting rods and one piston. I'm going to give it a shot and make something out of it. its the 16 tooth ring and I couldn't find a good used motor with the right millage, so I'm doing the rebuild in house.
I suspect the cause of the low oil pressure was a bad oil pump which caused the mains to fail. The difference from the smallest bearing to the biggest is about .001, standard size bearings would have at worst given either .0027 or .0007 clearance , with in spec. An additional .0015 might cause a slight drop in oil pressure, not 40 psi. Mopar could have made the oil pump from cast iron instead of aluminum , which wears from the steel rotor and different rates of expansion . Ever notice big block mopars dont have oil pressure issues ?
I have to agree with you. Excess clearance for the main bearings would cause low oil pressure for the entire oil system. That would spell disaster for all the other bearings - not enough film strength in 5w-20 for clearances that great.
I have a problem of the oil light going on at cold start & at a long idle on my 2003 4.7. When moving for 10 seconds or so the light goes off & stays off until it idles for a bit. Hopefully not a main bearing issue. Your video is very informative, but I don't have the right tools & know how to do a complete rebuild as you can. Appreciate the video. All the best & stay well !!!
Yes... it does blow up if u dont look into the issue... lmfao im in prossess of removing my engine and replacing it as we speak. Wish id have found your video before she went kabloooie n locked up on me. Thanks guy u helped alot
Hi, thanks to share your experiences. May be you could help me to resolve my failure. My 2012 ram 4.7l have trouble about oil pressure. When idle is under 700 rpm oil pressure fall down. I have already changed pressure sensor. But this truck have 175 000miles and I would like to know how can i be sure if it's a bearing problem or an oil pump problem ? Thank you.
Easy to solve that problem when you rebuild a 4.7 just have the crank resurfaced to the next undersize. That way easy to find bearings and your 100% sure you have a perfect fitting crank.Having a crank done is not that expensive. Also if the people that build the engine had done their job it would have shown up during assembly.
prime example of why I trust a 200,000 mile engine MORE than I trust a 20,000 mile engine. Me personally (I know the videos past its time) but I would just have the machine shop hone the new bearings to match your crank, as well as while the cranks out just have them re-balance it... because why not? Its already out. But again, thats just me.
Well a rebuilt engine isn't a factory problem, it's the rebuilders problem. Any engine needs to be properly fit. This isn't a 4.7 problem. Make sure your mechanic knows how to do the job.
i've watched all your vids on this rebuild. Thanks a ton, very helpful. Do you have a rough figure as to how much the rebuild cost, parts, machine shop costs, hours invested? I'd appreciate it, I'm currently thinking of doing the same for my 4.7, plus a transmission overhaul (NV3500). My guess is it wouldn't be worth my time and money when weighted against the aggravation of not having an appropriate space/garage/lift/stand etc. Thanks again for making these films, very helpful.
Funny the 4.7 in my ram is almost at 300.000 k/m and never gave me a problem .I swapped out the alternator once .I find many people put off regular oil changes on their vehicles and then blame it when it fails them.
Man have the crank turned .don't gamble with just polishing the crank .Those journals may look great but I promise if you plasta gauge the new bearings you will find they're not tru
I wish I knew that about the 4.7 problems before I purchased my 2003 Dodge Durango new back in the day. It had well above average maintenance & still went thru a tranny, rear end had to be re-built, & now I have an oil pressure prob at cold start & at idle with the oil light going on. Gonna' do a pressure test 1st just to rule out a bad oil pressure sensor & hopefully this Harbor Freight Engine & Transmission oil pressure test kit I purchased today works well enough to troubleshoot to the next step tomorrow.
my brother in law paid 3k for a 2003 ram with the hemi with rebuild heads had a rough idle the seller said it was just a coil but it wasn't I checked it out and it was piston #3 not working he had the heads resurfaced again and fixed the problem I dont have a ram or gm or Ford but if a had to choose I'd go with Ford no question asked
I've pulled apart chevy small blocks with 8 different sized pistons in them, and mis-matched bearings.. Its not just dodge. Chevy is usually the worst for not matching their own blue prints. Ford seems a little closer to spec. But the majority of customer engines were chevy small blocks. And HUGE mopar boat anchor big blocks.
These engines are sludge monsters from the factory, multiple oiling issues... Pick up tube cracks, O-ring goes out... The rear cylinders run hotter than the rest and the oil drains are too small causing the oil to cook and sludge up... Then the pickup screen gets clogged. The bearing thing can be an issue but something has to cause it to need to be rebuilt to begin with and theres a plethora of issues that can cause that light to come on for sure. Some engines run 300k and the owner never has a problem... Some didnt make it 20k miles
I'm currently rebuilding a 2006 4.7 well long story short rebuilt it things didn't go so well so pulled it and made the mistake of buy the wrong 4.7 .... It came out an 05 ram not going to work.... So maybe made this mistake thanks guess I'll tear it back down
Hi I just bought a used 07 Ram 4x4 pickup with that 4.7 with 159k miles, the previous owner lied to me it blow one head valve a lifter shot a hole threw the cover leaking oil then it overheated on them. I replaced both heads, timing chains and guides, water pump, power steering pump, thermostat and some other sensors. Test drove it it overheated on me but later I found out my mechanic replaced the new thermostat back in like the original witch was yeah backwards so henceforth the overheating I turned it around and also replaced the radiator with a new one didn’t want to chance it. Anyways two weeks later driving it just stalled and turns off at a traffic light and the oil gage dropped it did this several times I replaced the oil sensor and it was ok several weeks later it stalled on me again oil pressure down again. At restart it all went away. Am I having the same problem your describing? Please advise please thanks
Long time ago I just swap in HO.4.7 in a Ram and didn’t start, so after check all I found the problem and was the tone wheel they are different the old ones use 16 and the new ones use 32 tooth probably that was your problem someone use swap the original engine and use the original tone wheel.
IDK where he got his crank machined but when a machine shop polishes the crank, they will include the set of bearings to spec. This guy is obviously not a mechanic and is trying to do things by the book. It isn't gonna work out well.
My 03 ram had same issue, lose oil pressure once engine temp normalizes and on idle it would drop. I highly doubt its the crank bearing sizing is the issue, because no one had rebuilt my engine.
Goddamn those bearings were toast. Never should have happened. I hate when someone does something and don't read. Some people believe engines are built the same way they were 35 years ago and just slapping in standard bearings would be ok. This just proves that is not the case. I always check, double check and triple check things I do. Good thing it didn't kill the crank. That shit pisses me off. I had an engine that spun a bearing and seized. After getting it apart Cylinder 1 was toast along with the journal. Took a 280 buck crankshaft to repair when if not ran with water for oil the crank would have been ok. A girl owned it before me if that tells you anything. Albeit it wasn't a modern engine it was in an 89 Bonneville but still it looked like the oil hadn't been changed since 89 and the plugs were definitely stock 89 plugs and wires. Everything on it was straight stock and just as old as the car. Then it came down to a thing of weather to repair or cut my losses and junk it. I broke even on that car. Where as my 02 intrigue I made tons from. Bought for 100 took 100 to repair still driving it and still sounds great.
i figured the low oil pressure was the cause of the worn barrings, but you are saying the worn barrings are causing the low oil pressure. if this is the case, then what caused the barrings to wear out in the first place? lugging the engine in to high of a gear? or was it automatic and is not possible . or is it concluded that the re-manufactured motor had the incorrect sized barrings from the factory, low oil pressure should have been noticed from day 1. could have returned the motor for warranty ?
I think its a good motor but only for people that know how to take care of it. But as a mass production motor, i think it sucks. Either way, iv got one and have to deal with it haha
+rszombiesurvival exactly. you must know how it works in order to keep it running. i learned the hard way. only 146k miles on my original engine. new jasper engine is running like a raped ape and i know how to maintain it. they love amsoil to.
Chad Freznerdickson this is some good I have a jeep grand cherokee 4.7 v8 2001 and I fucking drift corners with it I know its a suv it can flip but that 4.7 spins all the wheels when I hit the corner.
they vary a couple of "tenths" as in .0001. Modern engines have tighter clearances , allowing the use of thinner oil. The bearing clearances on this engine run from .0006 to .0025, the latter the same as a chevy small block. Race engines are often built with .003 clearances . An additional .001 isnt going to drop your oil pressure 40lbs.
Look it up the 4.7 has low oil pressure from the factory they run at 25 lb at 3000 rpm most cars run at 37 lb at 1600 rpm its a low pressure peace of shit another dodge peace of shit
Getting ready to rebuild my Jeep 4.7 HO and did not know about this issue. Thank you for this info.
It's something else: .0005" smaller or larger main bearing clearance won't cause zero oil pressure. (30 degrees temperature change can cause .0003" size difference on your micrometer)
The low oil pressure at idle is caused by a multiple of factors. Mostly it is a poor rocker design by the manufacturer, but also an aging motor contributes to it. Up until 2006 the rocker arms had a oil pressure relief hole that was about 1/8" in diameter(the same size as the hole in the lifter tip) and pointed strait up out of the rocker. After 2006 they changed the design and made the hole only about a 1/16" and pointed the hole towards the camshaft for better lubrication. This in turn increased the oil pressure in the whole system. As the engine wears, tolerances increase, the oil pressure lowers, and the lifters hydraulic pressure is also reduced. Over time the lifter springs also fatigue and are less effective. The hydraulic pressure from the oil helps combat the fatiguing springs. The 2006 rocker update helps mitigate the loss of oil pressure due to normal wear by increasing the total oil pressure in the system.
I gather an updated rocker is must have. I only have 320k on this engine. Oil pressure drops off at idle. Have to neutral the tranny & keep the rpms up to keep oil pressure.
My rockers have the big hole at the top. Perhaps new lifters too?
Wonder where the actual oil pump fits in here. Wouldn't a worn pump also contribute to low or NO oil pressure after warm up?
Man that is some great information I rebuild an engine and didn't last six months I'm rebuilding it again now and I'm just putting the same bearings in standard bearings that I bought at a local shop here so I'm glad I saw this video before I torque down the bed plate
nice job... all too often we go with the recommendation from the machine shop(engine builder) because they're the experts. .. Another case of" if you want it done right... Do it yourself"...👍
He's chasing his tail know because he didn't listen to the guy that does it for a living.
I have a 2005 dodge Ram v8 4.7 it’s about to hit 200000 miles with no problem. The engine has been awesome. No problem. I did have it run it rich one time because a muffler place put the wrong muffler . But other than that no problems. But I bought my truck brand new.
Hello there, I ran into the same issue you did with the bearings, ordered according to the tone wheel and when i checked the clearances it was different.. Also for anyone reading this that plans to rebuild the 4.7, DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET TIMMING SET, i gurantee you will be hearing chain slap after about 5k miles and your rockers will start popping off randomly, get the Mopar chains, guides and tentioners, or you will be sorry. Use synthetic 5WXX, not 10WXX in this engine, the clearances are very tight if built correctly, My idle never drops below 20PSI at idle, and dont use the electronic oil pressure gauge either, it will fail eventually from bad connections in the front control module, hook up a mechanicle gauge. Just my 2 cents from my experience from building these engines.
edward johnson i get 15psi at idol on my mechanical gauge. have about 7,000 miles on the motor now and it has held consistent oil pressure across all rpms. 15psi at idol. 40 psi at 1500 rpm or 50MPH, and 60psi at 2000 rpm or 70MPH. a big difference form my 0psi at idol and 10 psi at 2000 rpm before the rebuild.
+edward johnson Yeah all Chrysler tolerances are extremely tight. This is great in an engine but I do have to say since I live in NY the tight tolerances they use on things like axle shafts and so forth on the suspension almost fuse together with rust. I was doing a CV shaft on a 1500 4X4 and the little tiny intermediate shaft in the transfer case got stuck in the shaft and after heating, beating several times (so hot the shaft cup turned cherry red) I had to finally plasma cut a relief cut in the cup and it finally came out. Saved me from waiting on a special order but damn.
A lot of people blame the wheel bearing being driven on too long being bad but honestly it is the tight tolerances and driving on it just compounds the problem.
I will say Chrysler builds some very nice engines, and some OK trannys. No Engineer can predict the future so thats why I like many different brands of cars. But Chrysler tolerances in their engines are really specific and tells me the engines are just plain awesome. I also like a lot of GM stuff and some Ford stuff. I don't really sway to far from Domestic cars and trucks though.
Sounds like you did a nice job on your rebuilds.
A high polish on that crank, wouldn't change the specs very much, but can add as much as 20 horsepower. And making sure you use the cams from a 2008, is worth about 30 horsepower. Just make sure you use the same cam timing plates that came off your engine. And I don't recall what year that is but make sure that you try and use at least a 2006 to 2007 heads they are a bit more beefy.
I'm building a 4.7l now because the #7 & #8 connecting rod bearing got toasted. I got a .10 crank and bearing kit. two new connecting rods and one piston. I'm going to give it a shot and make something out of it. its the 16 tooth ring and I couldn't find a good used motor with the right millage, so I'm doing the rebuild in house.
I suspect the cause of the low oil pressure was a bad oil pump which caused the mains to fail. The difference from the smallest bearing to the biggest is about .001, standard size bearings would have at worst given either .0027 or .0007 clearance , with in spec. An additional .0015 might cause a slight drop in oil pressure, not 40 psi. Mopar could have made the oil pump from cast iron instead of aluminum , which wears from the steel rotor and different rates of expansion . Ever notice big block mopars dont have oil pressure issues ?
I have to agree with you. Excess clearance for the main bearings would cause low oil pressure for the entire oil system. That would spell disaster for all the other bearings - not enough film strength in 5w-20 for clearances that great.
I have a problem of the oil light going on at cold start & at a long idle on my 2003 4.7. When moving for 10 seconds or so the light goes off & stays off until it idles for a bit. Hopefully not a main bearing issue. Your video is very informative, but I don't have the right tools & know how to do a complete rebuild as you can. Appreciate the video. All the best & stay well !!!
Did you figure out the issue?
Yes... it does blow up if u dont look into the issue... lmfao im in prossess of removing my engine and replacing it as we speak. Wish id have found your video before she went kabloooie n locked up on me. Thanks guy u helped alot
Hi, thanks to share your experiences. May be you could help me to resolve my failure. My 2012 ram 4.7l have trouble about oil pressure. When idle is under 700 rpm oil pressure fall down. I have already changed pressure sensor. But this truck have 175 000miles and I would like to know how can i be sure if it's a bearing problem or an oil pump problem ?
Thank you.
I like how your showing use to rebuild a motor... Bruce O Cole
They are all A's now because the cranks been polished. You are chasing your tail. Listen to the guy that does it for a living.
Easy to solve that problem when you rebuild a 4.7 just have the crank resurfaced to the next undersize. That way easy to find bearings and your 100% sure you have a perfect fitting crank.Having a crank done is not that expensive. Also if the people that build the engine had done their job it would have shown up during assembly.
ruclips.net/video/JRi3ZQdUK1s/видео.html
prime example of why I trust a 200,000 mile engine MORE than I trust a 20,000 mile engine. Me personally (I know the videos past its time) but I would just have the machine shop hone the new bearings to match your crank, as well as while the cranks out just have them re-balance it... because why not? Its already out. But again, thats just me.
you dont hone bearings, you either regrind the crank or you match the bearings.
Well a rebuilt engine isn't a factory problem, it's the rebuilders problem. Any engine needs to be properly fit. This isn't a 4.7 problem. Make sure your mechanic knows how to do the job.
i've watched all your vids on this rebuild. Thanks a ton, very helpful. Do you have a rough figure as to how much the rebuild cost, parts, machine shop costs, hours invested? I'd appreciate it, I'm currently thinking of doing the same for my 4.7, plus a transmission overhaul (NV3500). My guess is it wouldn't be worth my time and money when weighted against the aggravation of not having an appropriate space/garage/lift/stand etc. Thanks again for making these films, very helpful.
Funny the 4.7 in my ram is almost at 300.000 k/m and never gave me a problem .I swapped out the alternator once .I find many people put off regular oil changes on their vehicles and then blame it when it fails them.
your correct I had 240k miles on my 4.7 until it blow up never had a problem till then
You can only abuse a vehicle so long .
I have 230000 on mine right now and it sounds and runs like brand new.
Man have the crank turned .don't gamble with just polishing the crank .Those journals may look great but I promise if you plasta gauge the new bearings you will find they're not tru
The 4.7L is a problematic engine. I cant believe Dodge put that 4.7L in a full size truck. They don't run good in lighter vehicles. Great video!
Runs absolutely minty in my 02 Durango
I wish I knew that about the 4.7 problems before I purchased my 2003 Dodge Durango new back in the day. It had well above average maintenance & still went thru a tranny, rear end had to be re-built, & now I have an oil pressure prob at cold start & at idle with the oil light going on. Gonna' do a pressure test 1st just to rule out a bad oil pressure sensor & hopefully this Harbor Freight Engine & Transmission oil pressure test kit I purchased today works well enough to troubleshoot to the next step tomorrow.
my brother in law paid 3k for a 2003 ram with the hemi with rebuild heads had a rough idle the seller said it was just a coil but it wasn't I checked it out and it was piston #3 not working he had the heads resurfaced again and fixed the problem I dont have a ram or gm or Ford but if a had to choose I'd go with Ford no question asked
I have low oil pressure at idle , not zero but low ,, ALL my bearings looked great at the teardown
worn oil pump
27mm deep socket for oil sending unit sensor 👌
Just turn idle up to 1,700 and roll with it
Great video thank you
why would dodge use differance size bearing on the crank
I've pulled apart chevy small blocks with 8 different sized pistons in them, and mis-matched bearings.. Its not just dodge. Chevy is usually the worst for not matching their own blue prints. Ford seems a little closer to spec. But the majority of customer engines were chevy small blocks. And HUGE mopar boat anchor big blocks.
These engines are sludge monsters from the factory, multiple oiling issues... Pick up tube cracks, O-ring goes out... The rear cylinders run hotter than the rest and the oil drains are too small causing the oil to cook and sludge up... Then the pickup screen gets clogged. The bearing thing can be an issue but something has to cause it to need to be rebuilt to begin with and theres a plethora of issues that can cause that light to come on for sure. Some engines run 300k and the owner never has a problem... Some didnt make it 20k miles
I'm currently rebuilding a 2006 4.7 well long story short rebuilt it things didn't go so well so pulled it and made the mistake of buy the wrong 4.7 .... It came out an 05 ram not going to work.... So maybe made this mistake thanks guess I'll tear it back down
Hi I just bought a used 07 Ram 4x4 pickup with that 4.7 with 159k miles, the previous owner lied to me it blow one head valve a lifter shot a hole threw the cover leaking oil then it overheated on them. I replaced both heads, timing chains and guides, water pump, power steering pump, thermostat and some other sensors. Test drove it it overheated on me but later I found out my mechanic replaced the new thermostat back in like the original witch was yeah backwards so henceforth the overheating I turned it around and also replaced the radiator with a new one didn’t want to chance it. Anyways two weeks later driving it just stalled and turns off at a traffic light and the oil gage dropped it did this several times I replaced the oil sensor and it was ok several weeks later it stalled on me again oil pressure down again. At restart it all went away. Am I having the same problem your describing? Please advise please thanks
Long time ago I just swap in HO.4.7 in a Ram and didn’t start, so after check all I found the problem and was the tone wheel they are different the old ones use 16 and the new ones use 32 tooth probably that was your problem someone use swap the original engine and use the original tone wheel.
IDK where he got his crank machined but when a machine shop polishes the crank, they will include the set of bearings to spec. This guy is obviously not a mechanic and is trying to do things by the book. It isn't gonna work out well.
How did the rebuild hold up over the long-term? Are you still driving it?
I put 80,000 miles on it and sold it to a friend. Started to get a coolant leak towards the end, but it did hard work for the 80k miles.
My 03 ram had same issue, lose oil pressure once engine temp normalizes and on idle it would drop. I highly doubt its the crank bearing sizing is the issue, because no one had rebuilt my engine.
Mines is doing that now. Changed sending unit. Changed different oil filter thicker oil. Same problem
@@ElSlickVic damn. That was my next plan of attack(replacing sending unit)
Have you guys found out the issue?
I wish you guys who rebuild your engines would tell us how much each step costs.
Goddamn those bearings were toast. Never should have happened. I hate when someone does something and don't read. Some people believe engines are built the same way they were 35 years ago and just slapping in standard bearings would be ok. This just proves that is not the case.
I always check, double check and triple check things I do. Good thing it didn't kill the crank. That shit pisses me off. I had an engine that spun a bearing and seized. After getting it apart Cylinder 1 was toast along with the journal. Took a 280 buck crankshaft to repair when if not ran with water for oil the crank would have been ok.
A girl owned it before me if that tells you anything. Albeit it wasn't a modern engine it was in an 89 Bonneville but still it looked like the oil hadn't been changed since 89 and the plugs were definitely stock 89 plugs and wires. Everything on it was straight stock and just as old as the car. Then it came down to a thing of weather to repair or cut my losses and junk it. I broke even on that car. Where as my 02 intrigue I made tons from. Bought for 100 took 100 to repair still driving it and still sounds great.
A 5.2 is a 318, what is a 4.7 possibly a 292 v8. Didn't Dodge have a 292 straight six. Or was that Chevy ?
i figured the low oil pressure was the cause of the worn barrings, but you are saying the worn barrings are causing the low oil pressure. if this is the case, then what caused the barrings to wear out in the first place? lugging the engine in to high of a gear? or was it automatic and is not possible . or is it concluded that the re-manufactured motor had the incorrect sized barrings from the factory, low oil pressure should have been noticed from day 1. could have returned the motor for warranty ?
yeah the incorrect bearings were installed. causing premature wear, and that lead to low oil pressure.
Some of the crank bearings were too tight. Just look at them. It’s obvious.
Do you think my jeeps 4.7 would be the same size?
notouchninja it's literally the same thing
Plastic gauge??
Was it making any noise
how much it cost to do that
I would have just turned the crank and run .010 bearing.
Where can I find a copy of the instructions
Just go to my facebook page and PM me I'll send you a link to a downloadable copy.
What manual is that print out from?
+Jeffrey Bright Chryslers.
what year was this 4.7l?
Looks like a 2002-2003
Either he didn't change the oil after the rebuild, or the rebuilder didn't know what they were doing!
Looks to be the latter, moron didn't bother to use the right parts! At least you'll know its done right this time.
compactc9
Hey that was me!
is hemi with same sh..t on there crank
I hate to say it, but it is a 4.7. I have never heard anything good of this motor. My only experience with one had the same problems you had.
I think its a good motor but only for people that know how to take care of it. But as a mass production motor, i think it sucks. Either way, iv got one and have to deal with it haha
+rszombiesurvival exactly. you must know how it works in order to keep it running. i learned the hard way. only 146k miles on my original engine. new jasper engine is running like a raped ape and i know how to maintain it. they love amsoil to.
Chad Freznerdickson this is some good I have a jeep grand cherokee 4.7 v8 2001 and I fucking drift corners with it I know its a suv it can flip but that 4.7 spins all the wheels when I hit the corner.
Never heard anything good from idiots that did 10K+ mile oil changes...right
Was it only low at idle?
+Daniel Ricany no all across. cant remember now but i think no more then 20 psi at 3000 rpm
Sounds like a hassle.
Makes me feel good about tossing a 500 dollar engine in with 200k I’m sure I’ll get another 100k out of it
It's just normal dude lol
Mega-technical....
What was Dodge thinking when every single crank journal is a different size bearing not very smart of Dodge
they vary a couple of "tenths" as in .0001. Modern engines have tighter clearances , allowing the use of thinner oil. The bearing clearances on this engine run from .0006 to .0025, the latter the same as a chevy small block. Race engines are often built with .003 clearances . An additional .001 isnt going to drop your oil pressure 40lbs.
So basically the 4.7 Dodge engine is bs basically huh guys?
NetWork Production No. It’s an amazing reliable V8 when you take care of them properly.
They build that engine wrong !!!
always plastiguage
Look it up the 4.7 has low oil pressure from the factory they run at 25 lb at 3000 rpm most cars run at 37 lb at 1600 rpm its a low pressure peace of shit another dodge peace of shit