How To Get MORE Free Horsepower - Ford Pinto
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- How I got MORE free horsepower with no downsides, no money and no internal parts upgrades.
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The Engine, commonly known as Dyno Dog.
- 2.0L Ford Pinto
- 32/36 DGAV
- Mild compression increase
- Light port work cylinder head
- Ashley 3 branch small bore
- Short circuit f2 oval cam
How to get more horsepower.
- Remove carburettor / carburetor Choke Flaps
- Installed Stub Stack
- Removed Butterfly screws, replaced with Weber DCD Screws
- Streamlined Auxiliary Venturi
- Bored chokes, from 26/27mm to 28/29mm 
Авто/Мото
you could say... across the 2 videos, all the free horse power mods combined were worth 10.5 hp... which is actually quite significant 👍👍
Great to see someone still willing to try hard with the O. H. C. Thank you for your videos.
Our pleasure!
Thanks for this video! I like your ideas, keep the momentum!
Love the vid man no nonsense just results.
I like it, 0 bs, mod, test, result, very nice.
More old tricks, porting and smoothing oil pump passages, same to the water. Pump and thermostat housing. Every sharp edge removed and your going to see some gains.
Every bit helps 👍
Keep them coming, your channel is gold.
Thanks, will do!
Great video 👍
Nice vid Graham 👍🏻👍🏻
Go Big or go home 🤣🤣
Back in the day baffle out of exhaust on my Honda mb50 made a racket never did go any faster 😂
The edge sharpening of the circle on the aux. Venturi is a old Italian trick... They say it's to "invitate the air" !!!
I know this is old but I'll put some stuff here anyway.
I built my 2.0L pinto motor up a bit. One of the early stock modifications is to retard the stock cam a few degrees. I didn't have an adjustable so I just filed the keyway 3/64". That made a noticeable difference in drivability.
After that I put a really good street cam and the legendary Holly 390 4V on a weiand manifold and a set of headers, into stock exhaust. I had the engine apart so I had it all checked for cracks and balanced. I also put a aftermarket pointless ignition and was able to shift at 7000 RPM. (The 4 speed stock transmission did not like that one bit).
I absolutely loved that engine.
The coupling between the header and the exhaust kept coming lose. After putting back on several times I realized I was pushing too much air for the stock muffler and it was blowing off.
Thanks! The Carbspacer works really well in my 1600 ohc!
Accelerating and RPM range runs better.
Glad to of helped :)
IT'S COMING !!!!!!!
I love Easter Eggs!!!!!
Good video Graham , your right in the scheme of things anything is better than nothing , so your saying 10+ hp gain on spacers and other minimal mods. Did the mixtures need fettling at all ....
the manifold mods didn't effect the AFR, but the spacer under the carb did, after fitting that I had to increase the size of the mains, and im pretty certain i had to go bigger still on the mains after i bored the chokes
Be interesting to know how you rejetted the carb
I remember back in the day all of us pulling the choke flaps and bar out thinking it made loads of power 😂😂😂. What it would do these days is save you about £3 in wasted fuel every time you cold start so gota be worth it for that
More tutorials plz
There was an outbreak of insanity that made guys throw away their chokes and even mill down the choke towers on Holley four barrels. Now it is nearly impossible to find a used one that isn't butchered. The parts thrown away cost a fortune to replace. Of course there was no horsepower gain. Also, the engines subjected to this abuse got the cylinders washed down with fuel as guys tried to start a chokeless engine. And the valves got burnt as guys drove around on an engine running too lean. "Duh. Works just fine... ahhh don need no choke..." said Bubba. Before he put rear shackles on the back springs...
carburetor manufacturers are not stupid, they are not going to design a carb with a choke mechanism that badly restricts airflow, a quick look should show you that the choke opening surface area is the biggest part of the carb, so most airflow restriction must be below it
Superb content!
Have you tested knife edging the throttle plates?
I did years ago, the difference was tiny if any, so unless you are after every last fraction of power it’s pointless. Throttle spindle and screws are far more significant
@@PenguinMotors Thank you, and thanks for all the dyno testing, the information is priceless!
Is your 32/36 still progressive or do you run a sync-link?
progressive, but it makes no different to WOT.
I would love to know what timing curve did you test at. (Base timing) vs advance per rpm. Peak advance. At what rpm. Wondering how much is too much. When do you encounter knock/ destination. Very interested 🙏
I feel like that would be a good video if you hadn't gone over that yet.
it was a while ago now, but timing would of been around 10-12 degrees 1000rpm, 28-30 @3500. if the fuel has a high enough octane to suit the compression/cam combo, you wont run into detonation until you have advanced the timing enough that it no longer adds power. the trick is to creep up on it and use as little timing as possible to make the biggest numbers.
@@PenguinMotors hello,did the pinto like to use more advance from low to high rpm .have pinto turbo with megasquirt and at the moment is at 36 degrees advance from 2500 rpm to the red line at 100 kpa is it good ? what is the best timing at all
but did you increase the main jets after going up 2mm on the chokes?? it MUST have run weaker after boring them out ! go up 0.10 on the mains and test again!!
The test was done a while ago so I don’t remember jetting details, but yes I would of gone up on the mains. AFR is monitored every dyno test and backed up by checking the spark plug colour
My Ford 2.0 engine
I got better gas mileage and better performance when I order a electronic ignition system and installed it and stopped using the standard points in the distributor 👍🌎🇺🇸
Joey ⚓
Have you ever tested out the low compression vs high compression pinto?
not a back to back test as such, but high compression makes more power :)
Do you have a link for the dcd spindal screws?
No but google eurocarb they have them
does higher octane fuel make any difference?
No you only need enough octane to suit your setup/compression more gives no benefit
Hey man.like your videos. I'm from SA and bought a Pinto engine 205 block. Standard engine.want some advice and parts.how can I get in touch with you pls.
Penguinmotors@outlook.com if you want to drop us an email. We don’t retail parts though
One more question: When boring the chokes, would the jet size have to be adapted? If so, means bigger choke size a bigger (bc more airflow) or smaller (bc less velocity in venturi) jet?
Bigger chokes require bigger main jets
Thank you, helpfull as always!
Can I reach out to you via email, I have two not yet tested stub stacks for the 32/36 I would donate to you for testing if you are interested, I will cover shipping expenses.
Your back to back dyno testing is so valuable, would like to contribute!
Best regards,
Martin
Many thanks penguinmotors@outlook.com
@@PenguinMotors Thanks, I send you an email
Would love to hear those bike carbs
its in the pipeline.....
I'm curious to see if they flow better than the dcoe carbs. Really diggin your content, great work!
Dónde comprar la polea del árbol de levas?
Plenty to choose from on the internet
So can you now test the 38dgas with no mods to the modified 32/36
might do some day, but i can tell you now the modded 32/36 would win
@@PenguinMotors I have all the mods on a 32/36 on one of my engines but not the spacers it’s ported standard valves 275 deg cam 290 lift on the lobe making 121hp at the tyres in a Mk 3 cortina it’s done 10.23 on the 1/8th. I did have trouble getting it rich enough like you with the twin choke 40 I ended up raising the float level as well to get the fuel in. My Capri has a bp285 standard valves but ported 38dgas and has done 10:23 also it has not been on the dyno. I think the cortina motor is better it pulls like crazy. I have twin 40 dellortos to fit one day both are street engines the bp285 is not as good on the street as it falls off the cam. Love your work. 👍
Some ppl say ±6bhp of gain swapping for electric fan ...
And some ppl say that engine LOVE some ignition advance and colder spark plugs ("helps to warm the heart!") !!!
@@21camaleonte i run 205 on LPG xD and have a lot adv time
3bhp still is a lot with fast mods! on stock 205 will be aroud 2hp ez
I'm surprised that removing the choke flaps made no difference and possibly even lost power in the lower RPM range. As those flaps cut across the bore at a different angle to the auxiliary venturis, is it possible that this sets up a sort of twist in the airflow, creating swirl which improves combustion? If yes, could sidedraughts benefit from having some sort of swirl vane added inside the trumpets?
Regarding the airhorn, you said you found an inexpensive 3D printed item on eBay. I can only find an expensive aluminium billet item. I guess your testing shows that it's not a part worth paying money for, no matter the price.
i actually wondered the reverse, are the flaps helping to straighten out the air flow? i would be interested to try an actual ram pipe rather than a stub, i think that would work better on this carb
@@PenguinMotors Given your experience vs mine, you're probably right. Although wouldn't straightening of the airflow help across the range? Would something like a smoke machine be an aid in determining what's occurring?
@@andrewleonard9257 low rpm, full throttle air speed is very slow through the carb which might be why it only hurt it low down
@@PenguinMotors Probably so. Does removing the choke flaps improve the CFM? Have you seen many cases of mods improving flow but making no difference on the dyno, or even producing less BHP?
@@andrewleonard9257 on a flow bench you will see a small airflow gain removing choke flaps. Flowbench gains do not always show up as more power on the dyno
There is no substitute for cc
Perhaps but you can’t add capacity using just a drill and scrap metal