Kawasaki KLR 250 - Project: Commuter #02 Valve Clearances
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- A little more love for the engine. In this one, i check the clearances after stripping many parts to get to the task at hand. A discovery is made which could provide insight about issues revealed in the oil change of last video.
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Thanks for watching!
Wow that explanation was the best ever.... I'm picking up my "new" KLR250 250 tomorrow, and it has a little valve knock... but after this I'll be all over that!! cheers Bro!
I hope it went well but a common klr 250 problem is how they eat cams so watch out for that
Just bought a 97 klr 250 with the cam problem why do they go
Im picking up a KLR 600 at the weekend so this video series will be helping me out along the way. I plan to get her running and mechanically ready but essentially cosmetically modifying her for a military rugged look. Nice work!
Thanks for the comments. Hope it does help you. Your plan sounds pretty cool tho, they do look good in that style.
Ive made more progress on mine and still need to make an update video for it but essentially I'm riding it and its a great. Still some tweaking of things here and there but when does that ever finish? 😏
@@MechitBetter Im glad the bike is serving you well! please do a folow up video it would be good to hear about your experiences. Do you know if there is a way to use crash bars with the 600? Ive looked at the mounting points on the 650 and Im wondering if with some persuasion it could be done. P.s I have subbed for more. Roll on the weekend!
@@SurreyRider any luck with the crash bars? Got a 600 myself and would love those military hand guards and at least an engine cage on mine
@@spitthatmoraleout8603 I think military style is great especially on an older bike!
Hand guards should be a universal item so shouldn't be a problem to find one that fits. Then its just a case of prep prime and paint👍
As for the engine bars they are gonna be a bit more scarce. Good luck finding them buddy!
The axe part is hilarious ^^. Nice bike, I've just bought an '85 one myself.
Great content thank you. This is my next project for my 2004 KLR
Awesome video! Very helpful.Attention to detail is great. Love the accent.
Really appreciate the response. Always great to hear when a video has helped someone. Have you had a go at the task yet or just building up to it?
Ha, im sure my accent changes depending who im talking to... 😁 Where do i sound like im from?
WARNING! The T mark on the flywheel is not for setting valve clearance. It is the TDC top dead center mark . At that point there is already lift and the clearance at that point is zero. The correct procedure is to align the dots on the cam sprockets towards the outer edges of the cylinder head. One to the front and one to the rear of the machine. There is no accompanying flywheel mark at this point. Both exhaust and intake valves will be fully closed and the cam at it's lowest point and ready for clearance checking.
Hi John.
Thanks for your input.
We did follow the official service manual for this task which states that the "T" mark on the magneto flywheel should be aligned with the slit in the inspection window in order to check/adjust clearances.
I believe this is about ⅓ of a turn (counter clockwise) past the point where the valves have finished opening and closing.
The alignment of the dots on the cams, as you mentioned, is noted as a necessary step for setting the correct cam chain timing.
Exhaust cam dot pointing to the front of the bike, aligned with the cylinder head upper surface. The inlet cam dot pointing to the rear, must be positioned upward about 3° from the cylinder head upper surface.
Hope that clears it up.
Cheers
Valves is my last option to check before I take my klr to a shop next year, thanks for the tutorial if this solves my problem I’ll be able to ride until late dec
What problems are you having with the engine? Always good to know if we helped someone out. Good luck
I was practicing wheelies for 3 hrs, rode it around the block and it started dying. Afterwards I’d run it and when I’d give it throttle it would turn off. Week after it was even harder to get it to run
I also placed a new spark plug / carburetor / battery etc
maybe that with front up high, oil swamp didn;t't have oil to suck cause all was in back of engine, so ti runed without lubrication... Worst scenario engine ruined
Great video magnet clued on bottom of cam cover is good to pick up metal flakes
Nice walk thru.
Again, thanks for this. Tackling this job myself today and the video has set me up nicely. Carbs all done, mine was rotten inside but running nice now. Strange choke behaviour but putting that down to a starting knack which I'm yet to learn. Doesn't help it's freezing cold out. Mine has a wire heading in just to the side of the spark plug and your connector looked mangled. Assuming it's oil pressure switch? Worth noting the locking nuts need 25Nm torque. Spotted that in the manual after mine came loose again.
well done! solid content, and good flow.
Thanks bud. Appreciate the positive comment. It's really encouraging.
@@MechitBetter could you recommend a solid source to download the service manual for the KLR250 like the one you used in the video??
I tend to find "manualslib" is one of the 1st places to look. I checked and they appear to have it. Not sure what is involved in downloading it but it is an option on there.
You will ideally need to get the base manual as well (klr 600) as a lot of the 250 supplement asks you to refer to base but noting specific differences.
Hope that helps.
Your doing well enjoyed it
Thanks, as always. Nice to have the positive vibes
Solid video.
Thanks dude. Was a good challenge to do by myself but seems to have had the desired result
Thank you very much.
So I'm doing my valves. In the inspection stuff. My KLR does not have any markings
Need to know where the valve will be when it'd be if in t marking
Did you get that hammer from Ichiban moto?
Nope, All my own bodged creation.
The handle on my stubby hammer broke and a hefty bit of box section was feeling lonely... so they got together and hit it off 😏
Was it hard to start cold before you did valves?
I've been told that valves don't need to be adjusted as often if you do frequent oil changes. Any truth to that?
Hi, sorry for the delay.
It sounds reasonable.
I think the idea is to ensure you have the correct level of oil as it would slow the wear on the various parts (and therefore increase time between adjustments).
If the oil is changed in line with the servicing schedule you're giving the engine the best chance to perform as it should before having to open it up again and tinker.
I got my valves readjusted in my first and last week of prison
So I did like the walk thru, but have run into a snag, I can't seem to tighten them down without snapping bolts, I'm at 3 bolts busted now. :( I thought I had the tight but it then had oil come out. Any idea I would love to hear from you. I have followed the Manuel per the torque spec as it's the same you say. What was your trick?
What ended up being the issue?
@cyclonus01 over torquing the bolt. They don't take much to tighten it. It's up and running now. I also added a little lock tight to the bolt so they don't back out.
@No_one1776 nice how often do you have to do the valve adjustments on these bikes.
@cyclonus01 that's a good question. I really don't know. The only reason I did it was because it was ticking a lot. 2 of the values were out of specifications and it quited the tick. I'm sure it's in the service manual which I could find the whole book.
and what about if tou put the gauge in between the de cam lobe and the rocker
Hi,
Thanks for getting in touch but I'm not sure I fully understand your question.
Are you talking about taking readings from a different place or suggesting something else?