Never heard about the drill bit thickness benefit of not being wider than the thickness of the material being drilled. I have experienced the affects often. ;-) Thank you for this trick. ⛵
Buddy, back in the day the western union splice was the first thing a wireman learned,cool. Those welds were art. Ya the trailer is going to get wet to the waterline I hope the tongue is long enough and the lights are perfect. I'm looking forward to seeing how the mast is cradled and if you are considering a cover of some sort. 👍 Bob keeps walking the walk 👍
Great shout out to Chuck! I've been watching his channel for years. His haven build and yours were two very different ways to end up with almost the same thing. He muscled through it while you crafted artwork. And I deeply enjoyed watching both.
Robert, I do believe that your trailer will be submerged often enough, so making everything submersible is important. Great video Bob, and it is a beautiful design.
ATD = attention to detail (and action this day): this build has been a superb example. The workmanship has been exemplary and the end result is certainly beautiful.
Great video, again! Unless you cut out the bad parts, this went extremely well,lol. What a special moment it is when you lift her off the cradle and put her on the trailer. Congrats Bob. It is at least as big a moment as turning her over. I wish more people could experience the level of satisfaction and accomplishment that these projects bring. You are inspiring me to do some work on an old trailer frame that I have laying around. I’d bought an axle and wheels assembly some years ago. You’ve encouraged me to get that project rolling. Thanks for the shout out. Cheers, Chuck
Those are some nice welds and the trailer looks great. I would suggest drilling some drain holes to prevent any standing water in the frame and rounding the trailing edge that the keel rests on. Another well thought out design. Well done.
Really amazing work, Bob! The trailer looks fantastic! 😃 And finally the boat met one of its homes... Now it needs to meet the other one! The sea! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It’s all coming together. I’ve been watching since the beginning and have thoroughly enjoyed each episode. One thing I’ve been wondering about is how a carvel planked boat can be “trailerable”? The taking up of the planks could be as much as a week. Then plank shrinkage happens very quickly as the boat dries out on the trailer. I assume you’ll launch and come out of the water seasonally on a nearby body of water and not be going in and out multiple times at different locations. Can’t wait to see her in the water.
Good looking trailer for a good looking boat. You deserve to take a lot of pride in each of them. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
You may want to consider making a lifting bridle for the boat. At our club, all of the boats the size of your Haven are launched via dock cranes, and it’s a one man operation. I used to single hand my 16 ft sailboat that way, and launching via crane and lifting bridle was less wear and tear on the boat.
If you ever come down to the Louisville Sailing Club, we do as do many sailing clubs in the Midwest. Just saying it should be an option in case you visit a club with those facilities.
Great work as always. One thing you may want to consider is to swap out your tongue jack for a nose wheel. It makes it a lot easier on the back for moving around.
Thanks Bob, I had the choice of what type of trailer jack I wanted. I am not fan of jacks with wheels. I've had trailers with wheel jacks that were not on level ground and not attached to the boat roll on me. I prefer stable footed jacks like the one I used. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Bob
very cool tutorial on that. The only advice I have is to drill drain holes into the bottom of the adjustable support tubes. If they fill with water, they will quickly rust.
You’ve really surprised me Bob, I thought you would have got your trailer galvanised. My boat trailer and most others you see in Europe are nearly all galvanised. No more painting and just a quick wash off when you emerge from the sea.
My boat will be sailed in fresh water. I could have had it galvanized which would be a must with salt water. The galvanizer in my area is quite backed up. Not sure they could have it done in time for the Wooden Boat Show. So all things considered painting was the best option. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful trailer! Three things I wanted to mention based on many years of experience with small sailboat trailers that may improve your experience over time. The first is the location of the tail lights. I realize you probably have them "outboard" for visibility, but they stick out so much that you are likely to gouge your thigh walking past it if not paying attention, especially with a rather sharp angle iron end. Also they hang out enough that they are likely to get broken even protected as you mention when the trailer is being moved around in a tight spot. Did you consider having them "inboard", essentially under the boat or at least putting some kind of padding on the end to protect your leg? I have a trailer with a similar set up at shin height and I finally cut them off and relocated inboard after whacking my shins for years. The second is consider having a direct ground wire instead of one that uses the trailer. My experience with these is they always fail due to corrosion (especially if launching in salt water) and it's so easy to knock the ground wire connection off with your chains etc when moving the trailer around. Also if you have a little rust on either the male of female part of the hitch the lights won't work well until it gets scraped off and may send you down a time sink tracing something that is really a simple ground issue. Not really a problem for a new trailer, but it doesn't take much time outside before it does become a problem. The last is now that you know where the bunks lay, you might want to alter them to fit smooth so you don't have a flat bunk on a round surface that might result in a flat spot. Hope these ideas help and really looking forward to seeing the launch. I have really enjoyed watching the series as I am partial to these kinds of boats having grown up MA near a large fleet of H 12-1/2s and my Dad had a Bullseye (the L Francis Herreshoff fiberglass version of the 12-1/2) for 60 years.
Thanks You! I've spend over a year thinking, designing, and considering all the things you mentioned and more. I too have had many trailers over the years and it is with those experiences that I've made my design decisions. I'm extremely happy with the design and outcome. Rust is apart of steel vs. water. The answer is good maintenance. Hull supports are to support the hull not lift it. The weight of the boat should be on the keel. If you have seen flat spots on hulls it is because the owner had the support so tight they were lifting the boat. I too am looking forward to the launch. Cheers,
As an electrician I have heard about western Union splices, but can’t use them because code requires all connections to be done with compression connectors. I never thought of using it on my trailer lights though. I’m always fighting corrosion with the aluminum but splices and ring terminals. I am going to try it now, but I think I will add some solder to it as well. By the way, you crimped your ring terminal wrong. The crimper jaws should squeeze the top and bottom together, not the sides.
Looks more than adequate, Bob. Having it welded professionally makes good sense, even though I have no doubt your skills would have been up to the task. Surprised to hear she's headed for the east coast. Are you moving?
No concerns. When loading from the water the trailer will be angled the same as the boat ramp. The boat will be level with the water, so the fore end of the keel will meet the trailer first. Thanks for watching!
I've built a boat but Bob's a bit more skilled. I was imagining doing this sort of video myself, and realized he'd left out one major thing: the cussing.
Hi Bob, The trailer looks great but please make sure you carry a spare tire. I have blown out a tire on the highway before and was very grateful to have a spare and tire jack.
That's a solid trailer! With all the amazing detail in the boat building, I'm surprised you didn't form the HDPE around the channel. Some clamps, boards, and a heat gun, and it could be one piece. You could cover the upper edges and ends that way, too, as I'd be concerned with the boat yawing a bit on the water and the channel biting the keel when loading. Of course, you could always form some strips around the tops (or use some other soft product) later. If doing so with HDPE, I would overlap them over the inside liner pieces and plastic weld them at least at intervals to assist any adhesive. Hate to throw up something that seems like criticism on such an incredible build that I could never approach the quality of, so I hope this comes across more as suggestive and helpful in tone.
Forming the HDPE was my first thought. I did try heating a scrap up. Not as easy as I had wished. The fillet in the channel is quite tight and not easy to get the HDPE to bend that tight. Also don' think it would have been easy to keep the 3' length consistently warm. I'm very happy with the 3 piece solution. Thanks for watching!
Great build those folding rules Looks like you have an inside read Bummer that most that are sold are outside have about 7 From various companies Craftsman, stanley, Lufkin Milwaukee and Hultafurs Only the Milwaukee is inside The Stanley has the sliding inside extension Those and my folding 2 and 3 foot rules are what I use the most I use a tape measure a lot less And, the one I have has the Center point A guy that worked on the whaling ship the Morgan said he uses the 6 foot folding rule the most Since he seldom measured anything over 6 feet
Solder makes the joints brittle. I have had them break off on the wire side of the joint multiple times. I no longer solder wire joints where movement/vibration is involved
@@lanesteele240 Thanks for your reply. As they say … a good mechanical connection makes for a good electrical connection. I have seen a lot of unsoldered joints oxidize and lose connection over time. I’m not a fan of most mechanical splices for that reason.
Why do you use 3 individual wire strands and not a single (shielded) cable with the three wires inside? And furthermore why don't you use (several) rollers underneath the keel but instead use a C-channel? And do I see it correctly that the stands are just held in place by gravity? Does that not become an issue when you drive around (on bumpy roads/potholes) without a load? Does your self-built trailer need to be checked/certified before using it on the road? This is very dependent on the country you live of course, here in The Netherlands you need to let it certified and approved by the government. Such a lose item that can fall out and is not secured would be for sure a failure-item on that check. In the EU in general it is not worth the effort to build yourself a trailer as you need all kind of approvals to use it on the road. Its better to buy a base trailer and modify it and let that modification be checked.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
I never knew there were so many trailer construction guru’s in your audience! If it works for you, it’s a winner!
Thank Tom, welcome to RUclips! Lots of keyboard experts out there.
Good Deal, that's probably the most beautifully welded boat trailer in the country!
Never heard about the drill bit thickness benefit of not being wider than the thickness of the material being drilled. I have experienced the affects often. ;-) Thank you for this trick. ⛵
Was not expecting the Easter Bunny to bring a new Art of Boat Building episode this morning! ⛵🐇🐣
Finally! Someone who uses cutting oil when drilling steel/iron. I'm so tired of seeing WD40 used as a drilling or cutting lube.
Buddy, back in the day the western union splice was the first thing a wireman learned,cool. Those welds were art. Ya the trailer is going to get wet to the waterline I hope the tongue is long enough and the lights are perfect. I'm looking forward to seeing how the mast is cradled and if you are considering a cover of some sort. 👍 Bob keeps walking the walk 👍
Great shout out to Chuck! I've been watching his channel for years. His haven build and yours were two very different ways to end up with almost the same thing. He muscled through it while you crafted artwork. And I deeply enjoyed watching both.
Hi Dwayne!
Robert, I do believe that your trailer will be submerged often enough, so making everything submersible is important. Great video Bob, and it is a beautiful design.
Congratulations Bob! I wish you could see the big grin on my face from seeing the Haven on its beautiful new trailer ☺ Almost done now!
Hi Tony,
Indeed I did have a big smile. It was almost as great as the hull flip. Big milestone!
Official launch in June!
ATD = attention to detail (and action this day): this build has been a superb example. The workmanship has been exemplary and the end result is certainly beautiful.
Great video, again! Unless you cut out the bad parts, this went extremely well,lol. What a special moment it is when you lift her off the cradle and put her on the trailer. Congrats Bob. It is at least as big a moment as turning her over. I wish more people could experience the level of satisfaction and accomplishment that these projects bring. You are inspiring me to do some work on an old trailer frame that I have laying around. I’d bought an axle and wheels assembly some years ago. You’ve encouraged me to get that project rolling. Thanks for the shout out. Cheers, Chuck
Of course! Bob builds his own trailer! Another great video Bob!
Bob another fine piece of work. See you on the east coast soon! Off to see Steve and Arabella next weekend. Cheers Bill.
Those are some nice welds and the trailer looks great. I would suggest drilling some drain holes to prevent any standing water in the frame and rounding the trailing edge that the keel rests on. Another well thought out design. Well done.
It is beautiful Bob, when it was suspended in air I could begin to see her on the water. Very pretty!
Nice trailer design. Look forward to the launch.
Really amazing work, Bob! The trailer looks fantastic! 😃
And finally the boat met one of its homes... Now it needs to meet the other one! The sea!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It’s all coming together. I’ve been watching since the beginning and have thoroughly enjoyed each episode. One thing I’ve been wondering about is how a carvel planked boat can be “trailerable”? The taking up of the planks could be as much as a week. Then plank shrinkage happens very quickly as the boat dries out on the trailer. I assume you’ll launch and come out of the water seasonally on a nearby body of water and not be going in and out multiple times at different locations. Can’t wait to see her in the water.
Nice job Bob!
Trailer is very nice looking, they did a great job on it. The loading real well. I bet you can't wait to get her on the water.
Beautiful trailer! Well done, sir.
Gorgeous!
Quedó muy bonito el remolque.Felicidades.
Good looking trailer for a good looking boat. You deserve to take a lot of pride in each of them. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
absolutely beautiful
Lovely video and workmanship as usual, over here in Australia and NZ we use a lot of rollers on our trailers.
A great looking trailer Bob!
Bob - your truck and trailer combo play a lovely Cello note at 31:13 😁
Great job, and as always amazing quality and attention to detail.
You may want to consider making a lifting bridle for the boat. At our club, all of the boats the size of your Haven are launched via dock cranes, and it’s a one man operation. I used to single hand my 16 ft sailboat that way, and launching via crane and lifting bridle was less wear and tear on the boat.
We do not use or have dock cranes in the mid west. All boat of this size are launched by boat ramps.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers
If you ever come down to the Louisville Sailing Club, we do as do many sailing clubs in the Midwest. Just saying it should be an option in case you visit a club with those facilities.
Beautiful! Nicely done! Happy sailing!
Thank you!
Great work as always. One thing you may want to consider is to swap out your tongue jack for a nose wheel. It makes it a lot easier on the back for moving around.
Thanks Bob, I had the choice of what type of trailer jack I wanted. I am not fan of jacks with wheels. I've had trailers with wheel jacks that were not on level ground and not attached to the boat roll on me. I prefer stable footed jacks like the one I used.
Thanks for watching.
Cheers,
Bob
very cool tutorial on that. The only advice I have is to drill drain holes into the bottom of the adjustable support tubes. If they fill with water, they will quickly rust.
The hull support tubes are completely open on the bottoms!
Nice!
What size tires did you go with? I have a similar trailer and feel my tires are undersized.
15" here is the tire size ST205/75D15
Thanks for watching!
You’ve really surprised me Bob, I thought you would have got your trailer galvanised. My boat trailer and most others you see in Europe are nearly all galvanised. No more painting and just a quick wash off when you emerge from the sea.
My boat will be sailed in fresh water. I could have had it galvanized which would be a must with salt water. The galvanizer in my area is quite backed up. Not sure they could have it done in time for the Wooden Boat Show. So all things considered painting was the best option.
Thanks for watching!
Can’t wait to see it and you at Mystic. If you need a place to tuck in for a night, I’m one hour west of Mystic on RT 95.
Thanks for the offer. Looking forward to seeing her splash at the Seaport!
Классный трейлер! Пора на воду)
Mais uma obra perfeita.
The 'clips' are usually referred to as Adel clamps.
I was hoping for a 100% cast brass trailer. Lol.
Beautiful trailer! Three things I wanted to mention based on many years of experience with small sailboat trailers that may improve your experience over time. The first is the location of the tail lights. I realize you probably have them "outboard" for visibility, but they stick out so much that you are likely to gouge your thigh walking past it if not paying attention, especially with a rather sharp angle iron end. Also they hang out enough that they are likely to get broken even protected as you mention when the trailer is being moved around in a tight spot. Did you consider having them "inboard", essentially under the boat or at least putting some kind of padding on the end to protect your leg? I have a trailer with a similar set up at shin height and I finally cut them off and relocated inboard after whacking my shins for years. The second is consider having a direct ground wire instead of one that uses the trailer. My experience with these is they always fail due to corrosion (especially if launching in salt water) and it's so easy to knock the ground wire connection off with your chains etc when moving the trailer around. Also if you have a little rust on either the male of female part of the hitch the lights won't work well until it gets scraped off and may send you down a time sink tracing something that is really a simple ground issue. Not really a problem for a new trailer, but it doesn't take much time outside before it does become a problem. The last is now that you know where the bunks lay, you might want to alter them to fit smooth so you don't have a flat bunk on a round surface that might result in a flat spot. Hope these ideas help and really looking forward to seeing the launch. I have really enjoyed watching the series as I am partial to these kinds of boats having grown up MA near a large fleet of H 12-1/2s and my Dad had a Bullseye (the L Francis Herreshoff fiberglass version of the 12-1/2) for 60 years.
Thanks You! I've spend over a year thinking, designing, and considering all the things you mentioned and more. I too have had many trailers over the years and it is with those experiences that I've made my design decisions. I'm extremely happy with the design and outcome. Rust is apart of steel vs. water. The answer is good maintenance. Hull supports are to support the hull not lift it. The weight of the boat should be on the keel. If you have seen flat spots on hulls it is because the owner had the support so tight they were lifting the boat.
I too am looking forward to the launch.
Cheers,
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Maybe put some rubber on the exposed ends of the angle iron 🙂I hate to see you jam your leg.
As an electrician I have heard about western Union splices, but can’t use them because code requires all connections to be done with compression connectors. I never thought of using it on my trailer lights though. I’m always fighting corrosion with the aluminum but splices and ring terminals. I am going to try it now, but I think I will add some solder to it as well. By the way, you crimped your ring terminal wrong. The crimper jaws should squeeze the top and bottom together, not the sides.
Looks more than adequate, Bob. Having it welded professionally makes good sense, even though I have no doubt your skills would have been up to the task. Surprised to hear she's headed for the east coast. Are you moving?
Wooden Boat Show!
Please, where did you get the plans for the basic trailer? Thank-you.
I designed the trailer. The plans are for sale. DM me for details.
Any concerns about the 90 degree corner of the keel support gouging the boat if you are not exactly centered while recovering the boat from the water?
No concerns. When loading from the water the trailer will be angled the same as the boat ramp. The boat will be level with the water, so the fore end of the keel will meet the trailer first.
Thanks for watching!
I've built a boat but Bob's a bit more skilled. I was imagining doing this sort of video myself, and realized he'd left out one major thing: the cussing.
Thanks!
Hi Bob, The trailer looks great but please make sure you carry a spare tire. I have blown out a tire on the highway before and was very grateful to have a spare and tire jack.
You bet I will. I have one you can see it at 24:30 in the background. Just waiting on the bracket to be delivered.
Thank for watching!
That's a solid trailer! With all the amazing detail in the boat building, I'm surprised you didn't form the HDPE around the channel. Some clamps, boards, and a heat gun, and it could be one piece. You could cover the upper edges and ends that way, too, as I'd be concerned with the boat yawing a bit on the water and the channel biting the keel when loading. Of course, you could always form some strips around the tops (or use some other soft product) later. If doing so with HDPE, I would overlap them over the inside liner pieces and plastic weld them at least at intervals to assist any adhesive. Hate to throw up something that seems like criticism on such an incredible build that I could never approach the quality of, so I hope this comes across more as suggestive and helpful in tone.
Forming the HDPE was my first thought. I did try heating a scrap up. Not as easy as I had wished. The fillet in the channel is quite tight and not easy to get the HDPE to bend that tight. Also don' think it would have been easy to keep the 3' length consistently warm. I'm very happy with the 3 piece solution. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful as usual Bob. Do you have any concerns about water getting trapped between the HDPE and the paint?
Not at all
Boa tarde Bob. Fiz o meu atrelado da suspensão de um citoen 2 CV. Ao ver o seu, lembrei-me das voltas que dei para o construir.
Em Portugal exigem matrícula e luzes. Um abraço
Olá Guilherme
Me chamo Antônio
Estou tentando obter uma carreta para um barco desse tipo.
Você tem uma?
@@antoniovalenca1983 não tenho, já vendi
Great build those folding rules Looks like you have an inside read Bummer that most that are sold are outside have about 7 From various companies Craftsman, stanley, Lufkin Milwaukee and Hultafurs Only the Milwaukee is inside The Stanley has the sliding inside extension Those and my folding 2 and 3 foot rules are what I use the most I use a tape measure a lot less And, the one I have has the Center point A guy that worked on the whaling ship the Morgan said he uses the 6 foot folding rule the most Since he seldom measured anything over 6 feet
Geez Bob…. A corded drill… is this the last one in captivity?😂
Indeed!
Thanks for watching!
I hope the supports have drain holes in the bottoms
They do!
Yes they are open in the bottoms.
Surprised you do not seem to need indicator, reversing or perhaps fog lights on the trailer in the US. That would be necessary in Europe
Just tail lights, brake lights and turn signals are required. Longer trailers will also have side indicator lights as well.
Spare wheel, safety chain from trailer to car tow bar!
I have all those. Fabricator added the safety chain and have a spare ready for mounting.
Aren't you worried that the vibrations from driving are going to loosen the screws, especially the scaffolding supports?
The Hull supports will be locked in place.
Thanks for watching!
You should put drain holes some of the tubing.
There are drain holes. The tubes are completely open on the bottoms.
Do boat trailers not have brakes?
Trailers with an empty weight of under 3,000 pounds are not required to have brakes. The trailer weight with the boat is under 3000 pounds.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Ah I see, thanks for the reply.
No solder?
Solder makes the joints brittle. I have had them break off on the wire side of the joint multiple times. I no longer solder wire joints where movement/vibration is involved
@@lanesteele240 Thanks for your reply. As they say … a good mechanical connection makes for a good electrical connection. I have seen a lot of unsoldered joints oxidize and lose connection over time. I’m not a fan of most mechanical splices for that reason.
No concern that you’re gluing the HDPE to the paint and not directly to the steel?
No concern. The steel must be protected or it will rust under the HDPE.
Why do you use 3 individual wire strands and not a single (shielded) cable with the three wires inside? And furthermore why don't you use (several) rollers underneath the keel but instead use a C-channel? And do I see it correctly that the stands are just held in place by gravity? Does that not become an issue when you drive around (on bumpy roads/potholes) without a load? Does your self-built trailer need to be checked/certified before using it on the road? This is very dependent on the country you live of course, here in The Netherlands you need to let it certified and approved by the government. Such a lose item that can fall out and is not secured would be for sure a failure-item on that check. In the EU in general it is not worth the effort to build yourself a trailer as you need all kind of approvals to use it on the road. Its better to buy a base trailer and modify it and let that modification be checked.
I used a wiring harness made for this type of trailer. Rollers are not needed for this type and size of boat.
I'm surprised you didn't solder the Western Union splices. Ignorance on my part?
Needs carpet on your pads. As is, they're going to scratch the paint.
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