The injector line being off is concerning. Makes me think someone has been trying to bleed the injection pump and gave up. If it has a stuck metering valve or stuck injection plungers you will have your work cut out for you. Looks like it uses a Bosch rotary injection pump which I've never tangled with. Good luck guys!
You do good work and I thought the same thing with that line being off. I knew some guys that had a 5 ton log truck. It would NOT start with the starter but you could pull or push it 6 inches and it'd fire. A multi-fuel I'd say. That's how they started it. Don't ask me. They were older guys and had logged all their lives.
A few points of this. 1) It is not a deuce-n-half which denoted a 2.5 ton. It is an M54 Series 5 ton. The give away is the front grill, location of air intake, and of course the data plate denoting a much higher capacity as you stated. 3) the "hand throttle" is not something you use as a cruise control. It is used as a high idle for warm ups, and for providing higher rpms for models that are wreckers to power the PTO winch or a lifting boom and such. I have operated these very vehicles in Korea 45 years back and they are great trucks. Have a great day. These vehicles sure required a lot of TLC. One lasting till today is amazing. Great video.
My dad served 8 years in national guard and told mr those deuce and a half was a force to recon with. Pull hell off hinges without even trying. That truck a beast
Probably the injector pump. I'd check that. This would definitely be an awesome rig if you can get it running and driving. 👍 Looking forward to seeing the next video.
I drove those in the US Army back in the 80s, btw Hamiltonville Farm that's a 5 ton, not a duece. I'm surprised that big boy is still sitting there. There are people who would buy that thing in a hot minute. Especially with all the unrest in the country right now. Some disaster prepper would probably love to have it as a bug-out vehicle after putting some TLC into it.
As a Army mechanic. You need to remove the fuel filters and put clean fuel in them. If there is a hand prime pump on the fuel filters pump that till it gets hard and crank the engine keep pumping the hand primer till it is running it should run . Or maybe you might have to crack some fuel lines at the injector pump or injectors. But first fill the fuel filters and try the prime pump if it has one. If not. Try this but be careful. Take the fuel cap off. Take a portable air compressor and a rag put about 10 psi on the fuel tank with a rag over the air line. Presher the fuel tank and fuel will go where you want. And crank engine while you presher the tank and it should start. But not to much pressure. All this should work. Or any on should. I'm a retired Army veteran and still work on miltary vehicles. So any on of these things should work for you.
Don't even mess with the filters. Get a nurse tank, boat tanks work great because they have a primer bulb on them. Put an inline electric fuel pump between the tank and the injector pump. You can get 12V off the first battery in a 24V system for the inline fuel pump. Crack all the injector lines open and crank it until you get good air free pulses out of the lines. Re tighten the injector lines and fire it up.
That is an old 809 5 ton truck with the multi fuel. You want to bleed the filters that are down below the steering hydraulic system. The top ones are the oil filters. You should hear fuel returning to the tank with the pump left on. Next open the side door where the fuel shut off rod is and check for free return. Then if no fuel pull the center bolt on the hydraulic head and make sure the plunger is moving up and down freely.
You're right it does make me cringe sometimes when you miss something "obvious" to someone more experienced, but not in a bad way, i like it as you're learning on the job (the best way) and it also gives folk a chance to pipe up and help out if it's something they happen to know about. I like that too, gives your viewers a chance to feel good and help someone out, even if 50 other folks have already said the same further down the comments doesn't matter. We can all share and learn new stuff too.
Try this: crack the line on the INPUT to the injection pump. Leave the fuel pump RUNNING for enough time to fill the various filters, etc. When you get the air purged, and the injector pump operating, the engine should start. DO NOT connect the #6 injector until you see fuel squirting out of it. The line should should quickly flush out the dirt in it. Remember injectors have many hundreds of pounds of fuel pressure on them! As I remember, the military standard multi fuel engines will self bleed the injectors. And, add around another 10 gallons of fuel to the tank, just for starters.
Hey use what you have to. I was moving a 5 ton package unit and come to find out there was a nest of hornets on the back side. I went to the truck and all that I could find was that spray on headliner glue and hey it worked.
Yeah I want to see this thing crank up! I would go about checking the lift pump and then crack open all the injector lines to make sure they are getting fuel. Hopefully you don’t have clogged injectors. Great vid guys!!
From what I've heard over time from guys that run diesels, if the injector pump loses its prime, you have to reprime it by bleeding air out of the system up to the pump. Some I've seen guys work a priming pump at either the filters or the injector pump. The old fuel filters may be plugged or totally dry. As was suggested, loosen the nuts on the filters and see if any fuel runs out. Check the line into the injector pump and see if there is fuel to there. Trace the fuel line from the water separator to at least the filters and make sure as some suggested there's not a fuel cutoff switch or valve. If that unconnected line is from that last injector, reconnect it and try and get the injector pump primed. Surely a diesel mechanic on here can offer help, too. Absolutely keep us updated on her successful startup!
the filters you pointed at are oil filters the fuel filters are farther back. there's a fuse on the fuel pump, its under the plastic cover. if it doesnt work its fine just give her some bill cosby in a can (ether) and she'll start without a fuel pump, drain your primary filter which is on the passenger side under the truck by the front axle, spray some diesel and rinse it off and shove it back in, mine wouldnt turn on and cleaning the filters did the trick. them primary filters are reusable. then check the secondaries. the top wing valve will bleed em both (if you get your fuel pump working) your injectors should be fine, just remove one of the lines at one of the injectors and crank it over to see if its spitting fuel out, you dont need to "bleed " the lines or any of tht bs cranking it over will do the job. chances are your injector pump is trashed, its a bosh style but the one on it is strictly for them trucks.. you can get a used one off ebay or off another truck. if you cant get the fuel pump just get a electric one from yer autoparts store. also make sure the engine stop plunger is all the way in. got a duece myself, its on my channel as well. check out big mikes motor pool for parts, good stuff on his website
@@HamiltonvilleFarm haha, great! and no problem. tactical repair has a channel dedicated to fixing them trucks as well he does great work. hope ya get it running
Check and see if the shut off plunger on the injection pump is pushed in. I was a 5-ton g.i. myself and drove the 2 1/2's some but a 5 a lot more. Continental multi-fuels. 1970. So there you go! God Bless All Yall! And the injection pump may be gone and that's why the injector line is off. Someone before was trying to get fuel through it. Ought to be a bleeder on that pump or crack the injector lines at the injector. Cat is 3/4.
Check the fuel shutoff valve on the injection pump. It’s connected to the engine shut off cable inside the cab. You will have to push the valve in at the injection pump.
Most of those M35A2’s are ether baby’s. The in cab fuel primer is missing. I was a mechanic in the army, I’ve spent a lot of time underneath the hood of those old deuce n a halfs.
There’s normally a bleed screw on top of the filters. And a hand lift fuel pump to bleed air out of system. Also that blocked injector line don’t look good. I’d say problems with injectors also.
Basically with all diesels you need to get the air out of the system or it won't start., so crack the rest of the fuel lines at the injector. There will most likely be a pump with a knurled knob that unscrews to become the plunger for the pump. Pump it till its develops resistance. then screw it back in. It will be by the fuel filter or injector pump. Now with the injector lines loose crank it until it squirts fuel from the injector pipes. tighten the injector pipes and crank it and it should start after a few seconds. Diesels that have been sitting unused may jam on full throttle when started so disconnect the air intake pipe from the manifold so you can put a piece of board across the intake to starve it of air because if it becomes a "runaway" That they only way to stop it.
There's two things that could be wrong with that some of those old military vehicles had a manual shut-off but they also had an electric shut off the manual one was the emergency stop at the emergency stop was pulled it has to be reset underneath the engine if it's not resetting fuel off if the injector pump the other one isn't there's an electric solenoid that goes to the bottom of the jector pump there's one wire that runs in on it if that isn't working right it won't open a while the fuel through the injector pump so you won't get any fuel up to your injectors and most of those old trucks were 24 volt you needed a for battery system series parallel
This is all correct. The solenoid often gets stuck, 24 V (4 Battery for cranking) is a must, Reset the engine shut off at the engine (follow the cable), bleed out the old fuel, ensure the filters are full, and spray either into the air intake while cranking.
That green lever was your turn signals and not the brakes. I can hear my fire team leader yelling now! " That's not for cruise control Kernen!!" It won't shut off when you hit the brakes. It's for running up RPM's during winching operations
I have a love hate relationship with the old deuce and half. Drove a lot of miles in them, could go almost any where. But... once you got them stuck, it was game over. Would love to come and help you get it running just so I could take a spin round the block. Keep working at her.
First I would make sure all of the fuel filters are full. Second I would try to start it with the liquid wrench. It seams like that is working on everything for you lately.
With any military truck that is running a multifuel engine like this start off with the fuel, you will have 3 filters, a separator on the frame(which you were working on) and then two secondary filters on the block(they point down, the oil filters point up) and then you have technically 3 fuel pumps, the electric in tank pump which you have working, the booster pump on the side of the injector pump, and the hydraulic head. First get fuel flowing from the electric pump through the filters to the booster pump, (the booster pump is on the side of the injector pump body) if you have fuel to there and past it (crack the line) look at the fuel shut off it is on the side of the pump you should have two flat head screws holding it closed under it you should see a arm(fuel shutoff lever) that arm should move freely if its stuck that is your problem. If its moves freely move up to the top of the injector pump you will see the injector lines and in the center a bolt take off that bolt after cleaning around it. Then place a wood dowel rod in the hole of the bolt and crank the engine, if the rod moves up and down a small amount you most likely have a broken spider (it holds the injector button to the bottom of the shaft or you have a broken bow tie) if it dosen't move up and down at all you have a frozen injector pin and the hydraulic head will most likely need replaced. If you want to know move about these military engines look at theses videos at tactical repair. He has a series of videos on these injector pumps. ruclips.net/video/FmPb5KGu9fk/видео.html
Seems as you have this correct but their may be a solenoid shut off . It could be a 24 volt system. Seems as it cranking right. Other then that I'd try purging it more, as in the filters thru the filters back out to the pump. The bottom line is you cant make assumptions w/out verifying your are for certain the pump is being fed. Fuel has to be at the intake port for sure. It may take some tyme to do this. Once you do get fuel to the pump it can take some cocsing in getting it to feed the injectors.
Fuel filters change also bleed screws open to get fuel then tighten up and plus get a grey bottle of STP Total Treatment fuel injection put in fuel tank also open injectors too till get Fuel!
I wish I were there I could point it out but crack the bolts open on the 2filters to see if fuel bubbles up if not there's clogs in filters but ya you will get it
Start with starter fluid then swap to spray lube to keep it running. Diesels will run on spray lube but not start on it. This way you can keep it running without drying out cylinder and rings.
We had a diesel mechanic that worked for my dad who used to work at Peterbilt. Started everything on silicone spray! Lubes and the silicone is highly flammable!
I’d pull the injector lines and clean them one at a time with a air compressor. I’d keep checking the line up from the known last good fuel pressure location. The thing looks bullet proof tho.
Check the filters take off the injector lines off one at a time blow compressed air from your portable air tank to blow out the lines. Then bleed the air out of the injector lines so you know ya straight diesel coming out.
Change the Filters, Bleed them, then bleed the injector pump. Have to have fuel to and through the pump. Will have to bleed each injector before you even try to start the engine. Cannot have any air in the system.
If you think those nameplates are bad for army proofing the truck, you should see the multiple pages I have to follow to start just one 20 cylinder MTU on my cutter. We have 2 of those main engines and 3 Cummins generators to fire up. Can take up to an hour to go through every step. That's the military lol. Thanks for the vid.
Please have another go. How about checking the mechanical pump on the engine, or as ya said, check those large fuel filters are getting a feed from the pump. Maybe try to release a line on the mechanical pump as ya crank? It could be still air locked too. 👍👍👍
Yank the injector lines out...soak um in gas. Use weed whacker line to clear your injector lines. Fill ALL your filters with fresh fuel. Check if your engine got a Compression Release (it'll save your batteries). Release the compressionb & spin the engine...have ALL injector line loose @ the injectors (will save you time bleeding out ALL the air in the system. Good luck with your 5 Ton Kaiser!!! Should make a Ramp truck out of it for your Channel!!!! Aloha, "Mama Leigh"
Those 2filters open top a lil bit see if fuel is getting to the filters on moter .crack open the bolts on top and as it's pumping fuel it would bubble out top of them .if no fuel there then keep checking backwards to see where fuel is getting up to but good luck bud
"We're gonna see how mad we can make these bad boys" @ 3:22 ... hilarious famous last words. I reckon a few adventure videos of Hank destroying some really big in-ground wasp nests with petrol, fire, a dozer and some liquid wrench would make for superb viewing!
Should be a primer pump of some kind. If not just crack the filters loose to prime them one at a time bc you're not getting fuel to the injection pump. Just go piece by piece down the line till you get fuel all the way down the line.
Crack the bleed on the injection pump (tap on side of mechanical pressure pump)and then try the primer pump (electric pump). Its more than likely not sending fuel up due to the crimped pipe
Try bleeding air out of fuel filters, then if injector pump is able to bleed, then losses each injector And bleed, you guys have all the fun. Great videos.
Crack to bleeder valve on top of the two big filters turn on fuel pump let it Pump Fuel till it comes out the bleeder if that don't work you may have to bleed each line individually
About trying to get it to start other people already commented on what i was thinking, but looking at other videos on starting diesels, using a very little either is ok but too much can lower your compression and cause it not to start, use wd 40 in the cylinders ups compression. Just some info to help, love your videos.
Buenas tardes willi eres el Magiver de los motores increíble te admiro mucho desde Nicaragua muy bonito y bueno tu canal bendiciones Will a ti y tu equipo de reparaciones
Its no different to any old mechanical injection system. It has to be bled to the injection pump. Then crack all the injection line at the injectors, all at once. No need for 1 at a time. Then once they start squirting fuel tighten them up. Ohh as a foot note. Number 1 cylinder is alway nearest the fan. Even a V engine has number 1 offset forward
I think you are close to firing it up Hank!! With the tank that dry. You probably have to prime every part of the system! Hope you get it! Have a good week!!
Your close Hank, the fuel pump itself that pressurizes the injectors must have a solenoid on it to turn on or off the fuel hence the switch and so follow the lines back from top of engine to this mystery fuel pump. the one in the tank is a transfer pump and gets it to the actual fuel pump which operates at a very high pressure. The line hanging in the wind could be a injector line but thinking it goes to the return line as it doesn't burn every drop that comes through the line. That pump should have just as many lines as cylinders unless the valve system does the injecting then it gets simpler. a common line going up and the valve system telling which cylinder gets fuel is the key then. Still that pump on the engine itself is the high pressure pump. It is on the key that says go or no go. (switch)I would say that it come off or the solenoid is stuck. Take the handle on that crescent wrench and tap lightly as its going to or not one or the other hence giving them trouble and so park it an also check the wire attached to it and see if it is getting current. Since that truck is wired in series, its all 24 volt system.
IMHO, you were on the right track. See if fuel is getting thru those filters is the next thing I'd do personally. But I'm not a real mechanic either! :)
Enjoyed this video with you and Mr. Tommy. Brandell will say you could have gotten the truck started if he had been there. Lol. Brandell is a wise man for spending the day with his wife because of Mama ain't happy the no one is happy. Enjoyed the attempt and look forward to Part 2.
The injector line being off is concerning. Makes me think someone has been trying to bleed the injection pump and gave up. If it has a stuck metering valve or stuck injection plungers you will have your work cut out for you. Looks like it uses a Bosch rotary injection pump which I've never tangled with. Good luck guys!
Thanks Wes. Did you catch the part where i called you a real mechanic 😊👍
You do good work and I thought the same thing with that line being off. I knew some guys that had a 5 ton log truck. It would NOT start with the starter but you could pull or push it 6 inches and it'd fire. A multi-fuel I'd say. That's how they started it. Don't ask me. They were older guys and had logged all their lives.
@@HamiltonvilleFarm Sure did, but I'm not sure it's true!
Watch wes work your great!
@@WatchWesWork Yes you are Wes, These Good O'l Boys don't do to bad either !!! lol
Doesn't matter if it starts or not, its just a blast watching! Thanks guys!
LOL. Thanks for watching! We appreciate the comment
A few points of this. 1) It is not a deuce-n-half which denoted a 2.5 ton. It is an M54 Series 5 ton. The give away is the front grill, location of air intake, and of course the data plate denoting a much higher capacity as you stated. 3) the "hand throttle" is not something you use as a cruise control. It is used as a high idle for warm ups, and for providing higher rpms for models that are wreckers to power the PTO winch or a lifting boom and such. I have operated these very vehicles in Korea 45 years back and they are great trucks. Have a great day. These vehicles sure required a lot of TLC. One lasting till today is amazing. Great video.
Thanks for watching 👍
My dad served 8 years in national guard and told mr those deuce and a half was a force to recon with. Pull hell off hinges without even trying. That truck a beast
Probably the injector pump. I'd check that. This would definitely be an awesome rig if you can get it running and driving. 👍 Looking forward to seeing the next video.
Fingers crossed!
Just wanted to say I subscribed for the simple fact that you say God bless at the end of your videos!
Thanks Don. He's sure been good to us.
Hamiltonville Farm he is good! That’s for sure!
I drove those in the US Army back in the 80s, btw Hamiltonville Farm that's a 5 ton, not a duece. I'm surprised that big boy is still sitting there. There are people who would buy that thing in a hot minute. Especially with all the unrest in the country right now. Some disaster prepper would probably love to have it as a bug-out vehicle after putting some TLC into it.
You're right. Thanks 👍
Im no prepper but id buy that truck in a heartbeat.
As a Army mechanic. You need to remove the fuel filters and put clean fuel in them. If there is a hand prime pump on the fuel filters pump that till it gets hard and crank the engine keep pumping the hand primer till it is running it should run . Or maybe you might have to crack some fuel lines at the injector pump or injectors. But first fill the fuel filters and try the prime pump if it has one. If not. Try this but be careful. Take the fuel cap off. Take a portable air compressor and a rag put about 10 psi on the fuel tank with a rag over the air line. Presher the fuel tank and fuel will go where you want. And crank engine while you presher the tank and it should start. But not to much pressure. All this should work. Or any on should. I'm a retired Army veteran and still work on miltary vehicles. So any on of these things should work for you.
Thanks brother.hua
Don't even mess with the filters. Get a nurse tank, boat tanks work great because they have a primer bulb on them. Put an inline electric fuel pump between the tank and the injector pump. You can get 12V off the first battery in a 24V system for the inline fuel pump. Crack all the injector lines open and crank it until you get good air free pulses out of the lines. Re tighten the injector lines and fire it up.
Thanks
When we ran them out of fuel had to fill the tank then fill the filters the crack the line at each injector until fuel comes out then they start
Thanks Randy 👍
That is an old 809 5 ton truck with the multi fuel. You want to bleed the filters that are down below the steering hydraulic system. The top ones are the oil filters. You should hear fuel returning to the tank with the pump left on. Next open the side door where the fuel shut off rod is and check for free return. Then if no fuel pull the center bolt on the hydraulic head and make sure the plunger is moving up and down freely.
Thank you Rob!
You're right it does make me cringe sometimes when you miss something "obvious" to someone more experienced, but not in a bad way, i like it as you're learning on the job (the best way) and it also gives folk a chance to pipe up and help out if it's something they happen to know about. I like that too, gives your viewers a chance to feel good and help someone out, even if 50 other folks have already said the same further down the comments doesn't matter. We can all share and learn new stuff too.
This is true. Thanks Dan. 👍
Try this: crack the line on the INPUT to the injection pump. Leave the fuel pump RUNNING for enough time to fill the various filters, etc. When you get the air purged, and the injector pump operating, the engine should start. DO NOT connect the #6 injector until you see fuel squirting out of it. The line should should quickly flush out the dirt in it. Remember injectors have many hundreds of pounds of fuel pressure on them! As I remember, the military standard multi fuel engines will self bleed the injectors. And, add around another 10 gallons of fuel to the tank, just for starters.
Good call Neil
Hey use what you have to. I was moving a 5 ton package unit and come to find out there was a nest of hornets on the back side. I went to the truck and all that I could find was that spray on headliner glue and hey it worked.
There is a restriction fitting on the fuel line before or after fuel governor or filter housing sucking air.
Yeah I want to see this thing crank up! I would go about checking the lift pump and then crack open all the injector lines to make sure they are getting fuel. Hopefully you don’t have clogged injectors. Great vid guys!!
Thanks 👍 I appreciate it
Another great video!!! Love old military vehicles! MORE PLEASE! Love y'all!
Thanks Joshua 👍 we appreciate you watching
What’s the fun when you always know what you’re doing!
That’s right!
From what I've heard over time from guys that run diesels, if the injector pump loses its prime, you have to reprime it by bleeding air out of the system up to the pump. Some I've seen guys work a priming pump at either the filters or the injector pump. The old fuel filters may be plugged or totally dry. As was suggested, loosen the nuts on the filters and see if any fuel runs out. Check the line into the injector pump and see if there is fuel to there. Trace the fuel line from the water separator to at least the filters and make sure as some suggested there's not a fuel cutoff switch or valve. If that unconnected line is from that last injector, reconnect it and try and get the injector pump primed. Surely a diesel mechanic on here can offer help, too. Absolutely keep us updated on her successful startup!
Thanks 👍
the filters you pointed at are oil filters the fuel filters are farther back. there's a fuse on the fuel pump, its under the plastic cover. if it doesnt work its fine just give her some bill cosby in a can (ether) and she'll start without a fuel pump, drain your primary filter which is on the passenger side under the truck by the front axle, spray some diesel and rinse it off and shove it back in, mine wouldnt turn on and cleaning the filters did the trick. them primary filters are reusable. then check the secondaries. the top wing valve will bleed em both (if you get your fuel pump working) your injectors should be fine, just remove one of the lines at one of the injectors and crank it over to see if its spitting fuel out, you dont need to "bleed " the lines or any of tht bs cranking it over will do the job. chances are your injector pump is trashed, its a bosh style but the one on it is strictly for them trucks.. you can get a used one off ebay or off another truck. if you cant get the fuel pump just get a electric one from yer autoparts store. also make sure the engine stop plunger is all the way in. got a duece myself, its on my channel as well. check out big mikes motor pool for parts, good stuff on his website
Thanks a lot John. I appreciate the comment. The Bill Cosby part made me laugh :)
@@HamiltonvilleFarm haha, great! and no problem. tactical repair has a channel dedicated to fixing them trucks as well he does great work. hope ya get it running
Is there a stop cable disconnected? Try bleeding the injection pump and filters. Westen Champlin has one of these too. Good Luck!
Thanks for watching!
Check and see if the shut off plunger on the injection pump is pushed in. I was a 5-ton g.i. myself and drove the 2 1/2's some but a 5 a lot more. Continental multi-fuels. 1970. So there you go! God Bless All Yall! And the injection pump may be gone and that's why the injector line is off. Someone before was trying to get fuel through it. Ought to be a bleeder on that pump or crack the injector lines at the injector. Cat is 3/4.
thanks Lewie
@@HamiltonvilleFarm I try, Buddy!
Check the fuel shutoff valve on the injection pump. It’s connected to the engine shut off cable inside the cab. You will have to push the valve in at the injection pump.
Thanks Marshall
Most of those M35A2’s are ether baby’s. The in cab fuel primer is missing. I was a mechanic in the army, I’ve spent a lot of time underneath the hood of those old deuce n a halfs.
There’s normally a bleed screw on top of the filters. And a hand lift fuel pump to bleed air out of system. Also that blocked injector line don’t look good. I’d say problems with injectors also.
I'm sure you're right 👍
LDS425 engine...multifuel, runs on Diesel#2 best. still have to add fresh filters, fuel...bar it over first 24v system
Thank you
Pull the bleed screw out of the injection pump and cycle the ignition on the fuel pump on and off until you see fuel.
Thanks Perry 👍
Basically with all diesels you need to get the air out of the system or it won't start., so crack the rest of the fuel lines at the injector. There will most likely be a pump with a knurled knob that unscrews to become the plunger for the pump. Pump it till its develops resistance. then screw it back in. It will be by the fuel filter or injector pump. Now with the injector lines loose crank it until it squirts fuel from the injector pipes. tighten the injector pipes and crank it and it should start after a few seconds. Diesels that have been sitting unused may jam on full throttle when started so disconnect the air intake pipe from the manifold so you can put a piece of board across the intake to starve it of air because if it becomes a "runaway" That they only way to stop it.
Thank you Andrew. I appreciate it buddy.
The truck needs at least 20 gallons to keep running. I have worked on them a lot. The injector lines have rusted up if left open to the air.
Yeah we found that out👍 thanks for watching.
It’ll take a while to fill those filters...
you just need to crack every joint in the fuel line and trace the fuel to the injectors ...
Thanks Robert
That lever on the steering column is not brakes. It’s the turn signal control arm. Even has a position for 4 ways.
Thanks
Brandel wasn’t there so right away I knew the chances weren’t great. I was surprised after all.
*keep on tractoring*
😂😂😂
You have an air bubble in the fuel line between the filters and the injectors
Simple plumbing guys crack lines until u find were fuel stops flowing with the switch on
Thanks
you need to prime the 2 filters should be able to just loosen the nut on top and kick the pump on
Thank you!
No Start - you need to drop & fill the primary & secondary fuel filters. Air in the fuel system will prevent it from starting
Thanks 👍
There's two things that could be wrong with that some of those old military vehicles had a manual shut-off but they also had an electric shut off the manual one was the emergency stop at the emergency stop was pulled it has to be reset underneath the engine if it's not resetting fuel off if the injector pump the other one isn't there's an electric solenoid that goes to the bottom of the jector pump there's one wire that runs in on it if that isn't working right it won't open a while the fuel through the injector pump so you won't get any fuel up to your injectors and most of those old trucks were 24 volt you needed a for battery system series parallel
Thanks Robert!
This is all correct. The solenoid often gets stuck, 24 V (4 Battery for cranking) is a must, Reset the engine shut off at the engine (follow the cable), bleed out the old fuel, ensure the filters are full, and spray either into the air intake while cranking.
Those small fuel lines have to be replaced regularly. I remember having to replace injector lines several times.
water seperator is usually on the return line to the tank from my experience re-hook that line with the rubber hose u attached
Thanks Larry👍
That green lever was your turn signals and not the brakes. I can hear my fire team leader yelling now! " That's not for cruise control Kernen!!" It won't shut off when you hit the brakes. It's for running up RPM's during winching operations
Lol. Yeah my bad. Thanks for watching 👍
Enjoy your show from over here in Northeast Florida
I have a love hate relationship with the old deuce and half. Drove a lot of miles in them, could go almost any where. But... once you got them stuck, it was game over. Would love to come and help you get it running just so I could take a spin round the block. Keep working at her.
Thanks Brian 👍
You'll getter Hank. Replace them two filters right before the injector rail and it'll run like "Snyders Hound". Guarantee it buddy.
Thanks Dean. I hope we get it👍
First I would make sure all of the fuel filters are full. Second I would try to start it with the liquid wrench. It seams like that is working on everything for you lately.
Thanks for watching 👍
Them old motors are tuff great job. Next time 👊
Yes they are
@@HamiltonvilleFarm If you said 10,000 pounds payload, that's a 5-ton instead of a 2 1/2!
With any military truck that is running a multifuel engine like this start off with the fuel, you will have 3 filters, a separator on the frame(which you were working on) and then two secondary filters on the block(they point down, the oil filters point up) and then you have technically 3 fuel pumps, the electric in tank pump which you have working, the booster pump on the side of the injector pump, and the hydraulic head.
First get fuel flowing from the electric pump through the filters to the booster pump, (the booster pump is on the side of the injector pump body) if you have fuel to there and past it (crack the line) look at the fuel shut off it is on the side of the pump you should have two flat head screws holding it closed under it you should see a arm(fuel shutoff lever) that arm should move freely if its stuck that is your problem. If its moves freely move up to the top of the injector pump you will see the injector lines and in the center a bolt take off that bolt after cleaning around it.
Then place a wood dowel rod in the hole of the bolt and crank the engine, if the rod moves up and down a small amount you most likely have a broken spider (it holds the injector button to the bottom of the shaft or you have a broken bow tie) if it dosen't move up and down at all you have a frozen injector pin and the hydraulic head will most likely need replaced.
If you want to know move about these military engines look at theses videos at tactical repair. He has a series of videos on these injector pumps.
ruclips.net/video/FmPb5KGu9fk/видео.html
Thanks so much Gabe. I appreciate that comment. I'll definitely look at that👍 have a good one!
Seems as you have this correct but their may be a solenoid shut off . It could be a 24 volt system. Seems as it cranking right. Other then that I'd try purging it more, as in the filters thru the filters back out to the pump. The bottom line is you cant make assumptions w/out verifying your are for certain the pump is being fed. Fuel has to be at the intake port for sure. It may take some tyme to do this. Once you do get fuel to the pump it can take some cocsing in getting it to feed the injectors.
Thanks 👍
I think it will start, gotta have faith, this is what RobbieJo says, my rescue Doxie.
Thanks
Be safe!! take care! Go ahead!!! Nice to see you
Thanks for taking the time to watch and make the comment. I truly appreciate it! Have a good day.
You're making positive progress so far that's right you got the wasp nest crank up I gave you two thumbs up on that
LOL! Thanks!
Quiero volver a mi negosio de recostruir camiones en colombia
Fuel filters change also bleed screws open to get fuel then tighten up and plus get a grey bottle of STP Total Treatment fuel injection put in fuel tank also open injectors too till get Fuel!
Thanks
I wish I were there I could point it out but crack the bolts open on the 2filters to see if fuel bubbles up if not there's clogs in filters but ya you will get it
Thanks Brian
Check out all of the fuel lines and injectors and fresh fuel and filters might help alot.
Thank you!
I like Tommy ( Love the GOOD oldens , Can learn so much from us oldys )
Thank you!
Probably something with the injection pump, that'd be my guess. Them old army trucks are cool, hope you get it going hank!
Thanks 👍 we do too! Appreciate you watching 👍
Crack open the last me from back to front bleed them till u find the clog or maybe it's just needs bleed
Thanks Michael 👍
Those trucks are great. I'm sure you'll get it.
Thanks Jason👍
That's was awesome thanks for sharing
Pop one of the injector lines loose and turn the motor over there still could be air in the system
Thanks Jesse
I love that old truck! I wished I had one, but that one seems to have a different shift pattern than I remember.
Thanks for watching 👍
Start with starter fluid then swap to spray lube to keep it running. Diesels will run on spray lube but not start on it. This way you can keep it running without drying out cylinder and rings.
Thanks 👍
We had a diesel mechanic that worked for my dad who used to work at Peterbilt. Started everything on silicone spray! Lubes and the silicone is highly flammable!
I’d pull the injector lines and clean them one at a time with a air compressor. I’d keep checking the line up from the known last good fuel pressure location. The thing looks bullet proof tho.
Good call👍
Check the filters take off the injector lines off one at a time blow compressed air from your portable air tank to blow out the lines. Then bleed the air out of the injector lines so you know ya straight diesel coming out.
Thanks 👍
No problem anytime I can help
Change the Filters, Bleed them, then bleed the injector pump. Have to have fuel to and through the pump. Will have to bleed each injector before you even try to start the engine. Cannot have any air in the system.
Thanks Bob👍
If you think those nameplates are bad for army proofing the truck, you should see the multiple pages I have to follow to start just one 20 cylinder MTU on my cutter. We have 2 of those main engines and 3 Cummins generators to fire up. Can take up to an hour to go through every step. That's the military lol. Thanks for the vid.
lol. I hear ya! Thanks for watching!
Please have another go. How about checking the mechanical pump on the engine, or as ya said, check those large fuel filters are getting a feed from the pump. Maybe try to release a line on the mechanical pump as ya crank? It could be still air locked too. 👍👍👍
Yeah I think I agree with you on that. Thanks!
Trust me I knew a few folks who needed those plates
Lol
Yank the injector lines out...soak um in gas. Use weed whacker line to clear your injector lines. Fill ALL your filters with fresh fuel.
Check if your engine got a Compression Release (it'll save your batteries). Release the compressionb & spin the engine...have ALL injector line loose @ the injectors (will save you time bleeding out ALL the air in the system.
Good luck with your 5 Ton Kaiser!!! Should make a Ramp truck out of it for your Channel!!!!
Aloha,
"Mama Leigh"
Right on👍 thanks for the comment!
Those 2filters open top a lil bit see if fuel is getting to the filters on moter .crack open the bolts on top and as it's pumping fuel it would bubble out top of them .if no fuel there then keep checking backwards to see where fuel is getting up to but good luck bud
Ah! Good point. I will try that
"We're gonna see how mad we can make these bad boys" @ 3:22 ... hilarious famous last words. I reckon a few adventure videos of Hank destroying some really big in-ground wasp nests with petrol, fire, a dozer and some liquid wrench would make for superb viewing!
Lol. That Liquid wrench worked really good👍😂
They are some great pieces of equipment excellent work and thanks for the content stay safe and have a nice day bud 👍
Thanks, you too!
Hamiltonville Farm Thank you
Should be a primer pump of some kind. If not just crack the filters loose to prime them one at a time bc you're not getting fuel to the injection pump. Just go piece by piece down the line till you get fuel all the way down the line.
Thanks Aaron 👍
@@HamiltonvilleFarm np I'm a shade tree mechanic too
Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching
Crack the bleed on the injection pump (tap on side of mechanical pressure pump)and then try the primer pump (electric pump).
Its more than likely not sending fuel up due to the crimped pipe
Thanks Darren 👍
that line is a return line the actual inlet is the screen above that section
Thanks
Try bleeding air out of fuel filters, then if injector pump is able to bleed, then losses each injector
And bleed, you guys have all the fun. Great videos.
Thanks brother. We appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching
Yeah wes is a cool dude and a pretty fair mechanic
Yeah he is awesome 👍 Thanks for watching
change the fule filter from the fule filter take the line off that go to the engin put the ruber hose from the fule filter to were it gos to the engin
Thanks Donald!
Check it and see if it's getting it to the pump and then bleed the pump
Crack to bleeder valve on top of the two big filters turn on fuel pump let it Pump Fuel till it comes out the bleeder if that don't work you may have to bleed each line individually
Check both the filters and the gas tank
Thanks 👍
That’s a very cool truck, thanks for posting
Thanks for watching 👍
Try to fix the fuel injection pump and the filters for the fuel and if that don't work then try to fix the injectors
Buddy, I wished I was there for that one.
I know..me too
Pressure the fuel tank,open bleeder on pump when fuel comes out of bledder turn off
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Awesome I love the vids and watch Wes work south main auto to lol
Thanks for watching 👍
About trying to get it to start other people already commented on what i was thinking, but looking at other videos on starting diesels, using a very little either is ok but too much can lower your compression and cause it not to start, use wd 40 in the cylinders ups compression. Just some info to help, love your videos.
Thanks Billy. I appreciate it 👍
Buenas tardes willi eres el Magiver de los motores increíble te admiro mucho desde Nicaragua muy bonito y bueno tu canal bendiciones Will a ti y tu equipo de reparaciones
Thanks for watching
I am familiar with Watch Wes Work. I like him too!
Yeah I like his stuff. He's super smart.
Its no different to any old mechanical injection system. It has to be bled to the injection pump. Then crack all the injection line at the injectors, all at once. No need for 1 at a time. Then once they start squirting fuel tighten them up. Ohh as a foot note. Number 1 cylinder is alway nearest the fan. Even a V engine has number 1 offset forward
Cool thanks Duane.
I think another good charge on those batteries, and crack all of the injector lines, you might be good. PS, glad I missed the day where it was 150*!
Missed you dog👍
they have an emergancy fuel shut off make sure that it has not been pulled. If it has been pulled you need to reset it before it will start .
Thanks for watching
I think you are close to firing it up Hank!! With the tank that dry. You probably have to prime every part of the system! Hope you get it! Have a good week!!
Thanks John👍
This is not a deuce, this is a 5 ton. You can tell by the air filter on the fender.
Thanks
Your close Hank, the fuel pump itself that pressurizes the injectors must have a solenoid on it to turn on or off the fuel hence the switch and so follow the lines back from top of engine to this mystery fuel pump. the one in the tank is a transfer pump and gets it to the actual fuel pump which operates at a very high pressure. The line hanging in the wind could be a injector line but thinking it goes to the return line as it doesn't burn every drop that comes through the line. That pump should have just as many lines as cylinders unless the valve system does the injecting then it gets simpler. a common line going up and the valve system telling which cylinder gets fuel is the key then. Still that pump on the engine itself is the high pressure pump. It is on the key that says go or no go. (switch)I would say that it come off or the solenoid is stuck. Take the handle on that crescent wrench and tap lightly as its going to or not one or the other hence giving them trouble and so park it an also check the wire attached to it and see if it is getting current. Since that truck is wired in series, its all 24 volt system.
Thanks Morgan 👍
IMHO, you were on the right track. See if fuel is getting thru those filters is the next thing I'd do personally. But I'm not a real mechanic either! :)
Thanks for watching 👍
Enjoyed this video with you and Mr. Tommy. Brandell will say you could have gotten the truck started if he had been there. Lol. Brandell is a wise man for spending the day with his wife because of Mama ain't happy the no one is happy. Enjoyed the attempt and look forward to Part 2.
That's right! Yeah he had a better time than we did for sure😀👍
Under the cover on the fuel tank there should be a auto fuse. They sometimes go bad.
Thanks
I would go directly to the fuel injector and then fuel filters.
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I think you should crack all the injector lines if that don’t work maybe replace the injection lines
Thanks Tim