A stainless fender washer on each end of the roller helps protect the nylon/plastic roller core. Also helps keep dirt out. Good lubricant point using silicone spray.
Your original roller was probably smaller when first made, overtime rubber cracks and can expand with heat. I bet if your old one wasn't cracked, it may be a lot closer in size to that new one.
The second end cap is installed with two hammers, one to back up at the end of the shaft, and then one to tap the end cap on. The first endcap is simply installed by driving the shaft into the endcap on the concrete floor. Appreciate the Super Thanks!
This is the most realistic boat dyi video I have ever seen. Guy expects to replace $20 keel roller that’s gone bad. 10 minute job, pry end cap off, swap new roller in and job is done. Nope…cap is seized on, has to cut existing shaft, then upon removing roller, realizes it’s not the same size. Browses internet for hours trying to find a replacement and even calls original manufacturer to try find a replacement. Can’t find replacement so is stuck with short roller. Then has to modify existing trailer bracket to fit shorter new $20 shaft. Installs new set up 10 minute $20 job Turns into 8 hour $50 ordeal
@@ProWrenchingI’m going through the exact same issue with my 2006 stratos. My roller is 9 inches and they don’t exist apparently. The shaft is also 12 inches…they also don’t exist apparently…
Hey....thats what happens when its a DIY. Something is always gonna happen. You can make anything work on paper but in reality it dont always work, being a country boy as I am.....we had a term for that....(N*gg*r Rigging) No offence being made. But you did what had to be done to make it work. I will say that on my 88 Stratos sitting on the trailer the only roller that the boat touches is the roller up at the winch. Once the boat comes up on the trailer it should rest on the bunks and not on the rollers.
That's exactly what I need on my Sunbirds a bigger one at the end of my trailer because it doesn't even touch the boat but the rest of them do even though they are smaller like the one you have
I have to ask, why not use vice grip plier and straight slot screwdriver to grip twist and pry that push cap? Could save and reuse of done correctly. I just did a 1980s trailer and reused all caps with same method. Admittedly used pb blast night before to help loosen rust. When nut off, remove rod, with 0000 steel wool and pb, wipe, reinstall and using scrap wood on opposite side tap old cap back on with hammer. Just wanted to share. Great boat you have.
@ProWrenching I have a local built trailer. The roller rods are solid vs. hollow they are selling these days. And funny you mention as the rollers I removed has metal liners even. Now just polyurethane with plastic inserts. Smh as built to last no longer seems the purpose for most manufacturers. Great video and great boat. Hope you're fishing tomorrow friend.
Also when traveling down the road the boat flexes and comes into contact with the keel rubber roller protecting the boat. I am in the process of replacing my rubber 12” keel it’s 40 years old and dry rotted. Also adjust it up where it contacts the boat for best results. Mine has like 3” of adjustment up and down to properly adjust the roller to the boat.
Thank you. I have a 84 Calkins trailer and had no idea how to switch these out.
Glad my video helped-thanks!
A stainless fender washer on each end of the roller helps protect the nylon/plastic roller core. Also helps keep dirt out. Good lubricant point using silicone spray.
That’s a great tip. I’ll have to try that on the next one I change out.
I did that to mine installed 2 fender washers 1 per side.
I do appreciate you on this information really helpful to the point .
Thank you!
Your original roller was probably smaller when first made, overtime rubber cracks and can expand with heat. I bet if your old one wasn't cracked, it may be a lot closer in size to that new one.
Thanks!
I was wondering how to get the 2nd end cap on. Thanks!
The second end cap is installed with two hammers, one to back up at the end of the shaft, and then one to tap the end cap on. The first endcap is simply installed by driving the shaft into the endcap on the concrete floor. Appreciate the Super Thanks!
very helpful! Thanks!
Thank you!
This is the most realistic boat dyi video I have ever seen.
Guy expects to replace $20 keel roller that’s gone bad. 10 minute job, pry end cap off, swap new roller in and job is done.
Nope…cap is seized on, has to cut existing shaft, then upon removing roller, realizes it’s not the same size. Browses internet for hours trying to find a replacement and even calls original manufacturer to try find a replacement.
Can’t find replacement so is stuck with short roller. Then has to modify existing trailer bracket to fit shorter new $20 shaft.
Installs new set up
10 minute $20 job
Turns into 8 hour $50 ordeal
Yep- you nailed it exactly! Just out here keeping it real. Thanks for watching!
@@ProWrenchingI’m going through the exact same issue with my 2006 stratos. My roller is 9 inches and they don’t exist apparently. The shaft is also 12 inches…they also don’t exist apparently…
Hey....thats what happens when its a DIY. Something is always gonna happen. You can make anything work on paper but in reality it dont always work, being a country boy as I am.....we had a term for that....(N*gg*r Rigging) No offence being made. But you did what had to be done to make it work. I will say that on my 88 Stratos sitting on the trailer the only roller that the boat touches is the roller up at the winch. Once the boat comes up on the trailer it should rest on the bunks and not on the rollers.
Very useful thank you
Thanks!
That's exactly what I need on my Sunbirds a bigger one at the end of my trailer because it doesn't even touch the boat but the rest of them do even though they are smaller like the one you have
I have to ask, why not use vice grip plier and straight slot screwdriver to grip twist and pry that push cap? Could save and reuse of done correctly. I just did a 1980s trailer and reused all caps with same method. Admittedly used pb blast night before to help loosen rust. When nut off, remove rod, with 0000 steel wool and pb, wipe, reinstall and using scrap wood on opposite side tap old cap back on with hammer. Just wanted to share. Great boat you have.
Yes- sounds like excellent technique! PB blaster is good stuff. I’ll bet the original hardware is better quality than the new stuff.
@ProWrenching I have a local built trailer. The roller rods are solid vs. hollow they are selling these days. And funny you mention as the rollers I removed has metal liners even. Now just polyurethane with plastic inserts. Smh as built to last no longer seems the purpose for most manufacturers. Great video and great boat. Hope you're fishing tomorrow friend.
Good option tanks. I don't have a cutting tool.
Hi. Did you have anything propping the boat up and off the keel roller?
That keel roller only touches the boat when the boat is being loaded, so I didn’t need to prop it up.
Hola me gusto el vídeo ya que me sacó de unas dudas que tenía muchas gracias amigo saludos.
Gracias! Thank you
Agri Supply has the larger roller and the smaller roller. I ran into same problem.
Thanks for the info. I’ll check that out. I have a couple more rollers to replace.
Why does the roller not touch the boat keel?
The roller touches the hull of the boat when you drive the boat onto the trailer.
@@ProWrenching thank you.
Also when traveling down the road the boat flexes and comes into contact with the keel rubber roller protecting the boat.
I am in the process of replacing my rubber 12” keel it’s 40 years old and dry rotted. Also adjust it up where it contacts the boat for best results. Mine has like 3” of adjustment up and down to properly adjust the roller to the boat.
Thanks buddy
Wouldn’t you use a little lithium grease? Should roll a little better and keep the shaft from rusting.
Certainly wouldn’t hurt.
So much easier to do with the boat off the trailer
Nice
Thank you
Yates makes the rollers
Thanks!