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with the ceiling I'm pretty sure you either need to either have kind of open-air venting, or completely fill the void between the roof and ceiling panels with some kind of closed cell foam, otherwise the condensation is still going to condense from the warm air on to the cooler surface.
40 years in building trades has taught me that everyone has an opinion, so here's mine. Your approach to solving the condensation problem is the correct one. The more you can prevent warm, moist air from getting past the insulation, the more you will reduce condensation. 'Dead air' will insulate but just like 'hermetically sealed' is a lofty goal.
You are doing the right thing for that condensation humidity. Restricting any interior air from getting near the roof is the key. Vapor barriers are performing this function in housing. If you still detect moisture… just find where the barrier on the interior is imperfect…rather than going from the outside. Great fun to see the awesome projects you take on.
G'day Crew, Great to see new vids from you , hope to see more in 2025. Always enjoy the episodes you produce, with marine tech being my favourite. Been watching you from your very first vid, keep them comming . Best wishes for 2025 , Happy New Year. Respect...!
You should be able to find an eaves filler strip which is designed to go under the roofing sheet where it meets the top of the wall plate, if not you can measure the air gaps on the roof panels and then 3D print a template so you can make foam stoppers to fill those gaps and stop the cold air getting under the sheets
You really answered your question by yourself. Vapour barrier. it goes on the bottom side of the insulation. Tape up all the seams as you did the insulation.Really you should do the walls too, but atleast just doing the roof will help out immensely!
At a minimum to cure the condensation problem, you should have a sheet plastic vapor barrier between the metal roof panels and the ceiling insulation panels. The vapor barrier would hopefully allow the condensate to flow out from the edges of the roof. As is, the water will eventually cause mold issues and eventually attack the insulation panels as well.
@@timfish correct, it needs to be on the lower side (inside) - you need to stop the warm air (containing more water) getting in contact with a cold surface
@kaydesign A '77 El Camino, 86k, a '64 Buick LaSabre, 33k, 425 nail head, bought to race, and a 1927 Model T w/ less than 1000 miles. Used as a Doodlebug for 5 years before being parked in '32. 5 ? You ?
The moisture on your ceiling is not coming from the gaps in the roofing panels. It comes from inside and condenses on the cold underside of the roof. The sealing tape will help as would a complete vapour barrier and better ventilation inside
Agreed, it's mostly coming from the exhaled moisture in your breath. Proper ventilation will help unless the outside air is saturated as well. You might have to use a dehumidifier. With the ceiling sealed up, it will just condense somewhere else, most likely on the windows or any exposed steel.
@@thomask.8533 We use dehumidifiers in our art studio and main house to keep moisture down to an acceptable level. The UK is particularly damp during the winter months. And with the added need to prevent heat loss our older homes become breeding grounds for damp and condensation as we add draught proofing and insulation. If I had the money I'd install an air to air heat exchanger with dehumidifier.
Halo, the best way to eliminate condensation is to place the insulation on the outside or ensure that no warm air comes into contact with the metal roofing. This can be achieved by using expanding foam (closed cells low expansion) to securely attach the insulating material with no air gap.
On a “normal” house, the insulation and the tiles also have space where air can circulate, and on the inside you have a “humidity barrier”, so the humidity from the inside can’t affect the insulation and create condensation. Your roof, insulation and inside are not separate and you will probably get the problem again if you don’t “close” the inside to the outside. You should have put up a “barrier” on the inside against the insulation.
You will still get condensation above your sheets my friend , were there is a Air gap in the sheet valleys it will form . You need to take them all down then spray foam the sheet first then re- fit them 😁👍
If your taping seals the inside completely you will not have any more condensation. There are a lot of tinkerers around ventilation and humidity barriors but you are on the right track, it is the hot inside air (that can carry more humidity) that is condensating on the cold metal roof. Also you should try to achieve a slight "under pressure" inside so you dont push out the inside air into the insulation, easiest achieved by drawing air out with fans (typically in kitchen and bathroom) and having inlets in the other rooms. This is the simplest form of working ventilation.
The ridges or channels in the underside of the ceiling steel can serve as ventilation channels for air to flow from eves to a ridge vent. Circulate air drawn in around the perimeter and vent it out the centre/top. It doesn't have to have high volume to keep the condensation down, it just has to be moving.
Just in case you are not aware, they make an EVA foam profile seal that fits the contour of your roofing material. It's cheap and you just place it into the irregular gap and it seals out weather, insects, etc.
If you heat the vent convers with a heat source, you can bend them to match the radius of the pipe. Used that method several times with my 3D prints. Nice work!
Big fan, sorry to hear of your troubles with the roof. Building science can be a bugger, but its pretty simple once you get a hang of it. You need what is called a vapor diffusion port. That should fix your issue, along with a dehumidifier possibly and a heat pump water heater. All the best.
No thats not the only Problem. He got condenastion from the inside with the heated and moist Air on all the airgaps between the Panels but also on the seems to the steel structure. Since the Steel is cold on the outside. He can try to solve it with the Tape or a vapor barrier. BUT he got also Condenastion on the outside above the insulation. Thats from the outside air comming into the airgap below the metal roof. AND outside air condenastion in the gaps between the panels and in the ssems to the metal beams, petruding fasteners and wallpaneljoints and so on. He have to solve the Proplem from both sides! With a vaporbarrier claerly but also from the outside against standing and runnig water. Not even the Rain or Snow thats an extra Layer. Just for the condenastion or directly freezing water on the oputside of the insulation layer. I would say rip off the existing roof and put the wallpanels all arround without any gaps above all Metal Beams. Connect this Insulation layer airtight to the Wallpanels and close the gaps with a adhesive water and vaportight tape.
@@Total_Egal I was assuming the roof was air sealed, getting everything sealed and perfect is hard unless you use spray foam. I'd recommend open-air venting with a peaked roof then you can just do a ceiling of gypsum board, insulation and thats it. You don't need a vapor barrier because the gypsum board is the vapor barrier. But if you don't go this route and everything is closed you need to seal everything and use a vapor barrier. As well as the vapor diffusion port. That's very complicated though and all that requires expensive barriers, expensive insulation, expensive caulks, etc. With open air, its not only simpler, but cheaper.
Watching this episode and what the topics were, why not use the fans to help with the moisture problem. Evac the smoke to the area above the foam and thus out from under the edge of the roof. The moving air may push some of the moisture out and get the both issues fixed together.
Use cans of instant spray foam sealer in the trapezoid gaps on the outside. The foam will expand and seal each side there fore stopping the ingress of the cold into the ceiling.
Yes, the answer is one of two options to eliminate condensation - increase airflow in a void (which you just sealed), or completely seal up all voids. You need a better roof substrate and a rubber membrane.
I'd use the "alutrix" steam barrier on your metal roof. Frim top to bottom : the roof, the isolation, then the Alutrix steam barrier. Finishing the details with Tescon tape :-)
you can buy eave fillers for that roof sheet profile which go on the outside capping off the ends of the steel sheets stopping more air from flowing through
What you need to do to fix the condensation problem is spray foam insulate the entire under surface of the roof metal. As long as you have the metal sheet exposed to the cold exterior air and the warm moist interior air, it will make condensation. Sealing the cracks with tape will only hold the moisture in the ceiling and cause mold and corrosion.
Let's see... I'm pretty sure that the source of the water above your ceiling is from the cold surface (roof) condensing the humidity from the cabin. Like others have suggested, you need to either eliminate the source of water (humidity) flowing to the cold surface or insulate the cold surface. Possibly the easiest solution would be to make a low volume, closed loop air circulation system that flows air between the ceiling insulation and the cold roof. Inline with that air loop, ideally, there would be some sort of de-humidifier which directs the condensate overboard or a desiccant that you can change periodically. I suggest a "closed loop" system so you do not loose too much cabin heat through the cold roof due to convection, although some loss is inevitable... Simply "sealing" the insulation with tape will just trap the water that does get in (it will) and create an incubating space mold or fungus.
Hallo, ich finde gut wie sich alles bei dir entwickelt und folge deinen Weg schon lang. Mich würde dein Batteriespeicher mit den Victron Komponenten interessieren. Gibt es dazu auch ein Video? Ich konnte dazu bisher nichts finden. Viele Grüße und einen guten Rutsch ins Jahr 2025 Volker
People spill drinks. I'd make the box round the batteries waterproof. BTW, what you call duck tape most people in the English-speaking world would call masking tape.
Die Idee mit dem Diffussionssperrentape ist ja nett. Klappt aber so nur bei Gebäuden mit hoher Luftfeuchtebelastung von Innen und Dichter Gebäude Außenhülle. Dort ist die Problemlage aber andersn. Der Taupunkt sitzt somit dort in der Wand und dort drinne kann keine Feuchte aus der in der massiven Wand ja nicht vorhandenen Luft auskondensieren. Dein Problem ist unter dem Dachblech kommt sehr leicht Außenluft hinein und kondensiert dort aus. Ebenso Durchbrechen die Stahlträger die Dämmschicht und wirken als Kondensationspunkte. Alles in allem ist die Konstruktion so leider nicht sinnvoll. Beis in den Sauren Apfel und bau ein Dach mit den Wandelementen. Halt nicht rund sondern als Spitzdach leicht Schräg mit Dachspitze oder als Pultdach. Alle Wand Anschlüße definitiv gründlich verschäumen und offene Dämmstellen und Schaum mit Dichtband versehen. Das noch Verblechen oder Verkleiden gegen Witterung, Viechzeug und weils bessere Aussieht. Für einfache Betretbarkeit kann man immer noch Laufstege auf beide Seiten mit etwas Abstand aufbauen oder gar ein ganzes Schutzdach über der eigentlichen Hülle verbauen. Z.b. mit dem bisherigen Trapezblech mit 5cm Abstand. Dann hast du da Luftspalt über deinem eigentlichen Dach. Wäre Regen und Sonnenschutz und kannst die Zwischenlage im Sommer als natürlich ventiliertes Dach kühler bekommen. Was du da definitiv brauchst ist ein vollwertiges dichtes Dachsystem das quasi so auch bei Häusern eingesetzt wird mit entsprechender Lage für Wasserablauf bei Regen und Schnee . Sowie eben vollständige Luft/Wasserdichtigkeit nach beidne Seiten und in der Dämmebene gegen dein Kondenastionsproblem. Dein Taupunkt der außenluft liegt dort nunmal außen fast auf der Dämmlage bzw. eben unter dem Trapezblech hier. Diese Verbindung zwischen den Schichteh muss Luftdicht (bzw. Wasserdampfdicht) sein. Und gleichzeitig muss diese Außenlage aber ebenso Kondensationswasser bzw. gefrierendes Kondensationswasser wie rauhreif, Eis oder eben Tau als Laufwasser ableiten. Wetterdicht bzw. Regendicht/Schneefest könnte auch eine weitere Lage mit etwas Abstand sein. Oder die Außenhaut muss eben alles auf einmal leisten. Das ist dein Außenluft Kondensationsproblem. ABER du hast ebenso ein Innenluftkondensationsproblem! All die Stahlträger, durchstechenden Verschraubungen, Rohren, die Luftspalte zwischen den Platten um die Träger ringsrum. All das sind Kältepunkte bei denen dein Innenraumwasserdampf ebenso den dort befindlichen Taupunkt erreicht und ebenso auskondensiert. Du hast also das Kondensationsproblem von beiden Seiten. Ich sehe da nur diese Wandplatten als komplett durchgehende isolationslage als die Lösung die irgendwie Handhabbar ist.
Now you have isolated the Perspex plates with Ducttape, you need to cover the whole sealing from left to right and from front to back with a plastic layer that locks your inner space in a air tight way so that no air or moisture can pass this barrier. So all this plastic tracks should also be taped with plastic isolation tape (that’s is better than duct tape) . Only than you will have a real isolation that is airtight and closed!
Stacking the fans so close is a poor idea. The second one will do little, You could do with separating them if you can, ideally between sections to the air stop rotating between them, but at least a few inches between would help (especially with some fins in it to stop the air rotating, as you have a printer). Getting one that has reverse blades would work so close, but you cant just turn the one you have around and run it backwards, thats the same as it is now.
Add a ducted fan along one side of the ceiling, for it to blow through the gaps. It will cycle the moist air out from the roof. Even better if you can drop the ceiling by 2cm
when you screw inox/stainless steel on the regular boat structure steel, I'd expect corrosion sources from electrolysis over time, if not isolated (sika around screws zum Beispiel) 🤔?
ja ich glaub das ist ein klassisches beispielt für "dampfsperre vergessen". Die warme luft kann mehr feuchtigkeit aufnehmen und kondensiert an der kalten decke ab. eine einfache PVC folie unterhalb der isolierung sollte das verhindern.
Always enjoy your videos whatever the content. I was thinking that a coat of FlexSeal on the roof might help with the condensation issue. Have a great New Year!
The condensation also happens on the outside of the Insulation layer. Yea sure Sometimes also below the Roofmetal but dripping onto the insulation Layer below. But allways in this Airgap. He needs something like a sprayfoam insulation (who might not be working as well es some might think. Since there are steelbeams petruding the Insulation Layer! But better would be to change the roof to the wallpanel system. Since there is no airgap between the outer vapor and raintight shell and the insulation layer.
Erstmal danke für deine Videos. Ich habe keine Ahnung ob das funktioniert, aber würde es nicht helfen von einer Seite zur anderen eine Art Lüftung durch die Kanäle zu schaffen? Damit würde doch verhindert, das dort sich Staunässe bildet.
He could but you can not realy asure you close all airgaps. Maybee with Sprayfoaminsulation. But the steelbeams are still petruding the insulation layer. On them will be Condenastion from the outside and the inside air. You could hope for the beast putting sprayfoam all arrund and a vapor barrier from the inside. But in my optinion the only solution is to use the wallpanels above the steel construction as a roof. Connect the Insulation layer airtight to the wall. Vaporbarrier from both sides. And additional the outside needs protection layer against Weather, Rain, Condenastion and so on... he got a serious problem inherent in the (wrong) base construction of that thing. RV Camper, Arctic/Sibierian Expedition Vehicles, Commercial Housboats.. all those constructions got a not interrupted continous watertight and airtight insulation layer all arround. Usually a booring rectangular box made out of composit panels like he used on the walls. Interresting to know the first Arctic Expedition Vehicle also got a water condensation problem with Insualtion Layer petruding Stuff. Simple a Screws holding the Panels, a weldet on Standoff, surely Steelbeams or even only the Steel Edge Protection of the Panels or the Doorjam (metal) Profile. all of it was a condensation point or in this extreme conditiond even got that cold it was having ice on the srewheads inside the cabin. Forming long Ice neadles. Its an extreme Example but it ilustrates the Problem he got verry well.
Ceiling will not be vapor proof this way. You still need another layer of vapor barrier hermetically closed in within the 10°C (or better 12°C) line of Your temperature profile. Condensation is a b**ch on boats, and it gets nastily unhealthy real quick.
For me as long as it's this boat or the original one I'm happy. However I do understand your comment. First this was a party boat, then a house boat and now a podcast studio?
Agreed. Also doing stuff for expediency (walls and ceilings need vapour barrier to keep out condensation) which will have to be revisited again in future, and doing it “close enough” just doesn’t do it for me. I subscribed for a houseboat build that’s non-existent… I’m out.
😮 mon ami, je sais que les batteries produisent un gas chimique qui peu produire un risque pour la santé. Ça serait peut-être bien de faire un échappement d’air pour dégager ce danger.
Thanks for sharing, I have really enjoyed watching your videos for many years now. External insulation is a good idea. I use 45 mm thick Eva insulated rubber horse mats on my boat roof which is also curved. These mats are normally used to go on the floors of very fancy stables...They are extremely weatherproof and long lasting.. I just placed them directly on top of my roof and then weigh them down with a high density heavy rubber mat on top against the wind.... They also spread out any loads so that it feels fine to walk around on top of the roof.... Best wishes and do keep up all your wonderful work. Thanks again
I have been subscribed and watching since your first boat. I hate duck tape, you are using much more advanced tape to seal out internal moisture that is getting up there to condensate (probably dozens of experts are going to tell you how to "fix" that) so that is an insult to quality tape everywhere. LOL. I also like gaffers tape (for mike/speaker cables and other things I don't want covered with duck tape splooge), kapton/polyimide tape to isolate things electronically and sometimes chemically as it doesn't typically outgas (they use in on orbital platforms on the ISS), wiring loom cloth tape for low temp wires where I don't what to use more expensive tapes, PTFE tape (for battery cables, high temp things), liquid electrical tape and then there is copper and aluminum tape. Traditional duck tape (at least on the American side) is an abomination).
condensation, winter problem only..? use a positive pressure heating sytem.. this means cool air from outside, superheated, pumped inside. hot air furnace is game. I live in maine usa..even wooden houses do weird things. I had a couple of all steel mobile huts as well. Something as simple as a little wabasto gets a lot of it.
Schade zu sehen wie sehr du dein Potenzial verwirfst. Eine absolute Schande ist dein lüftungssystem. Eine ausrangierte dunstabzugshaube hätte es 20mal effektiver getan. Die kleinen Lüfter sind nie gebaut worden große luftmengen zu bewegen, sondern viel statischen Druck zu erzeugen.
I was a fan of your channel, but now nothing is finished. Also your ceiling will be a swimming pool above the plates. Condesation will stay there and rotten your plates. Sorry but i will unfollow you.
I have been with you since the beginning, and the reason I watch your channel was to watch you finish (Your First Boat) I have been patiently waiting for you to finish the (first boat) ,but as you have begun 15 different projects and still haven't finished (Your First Boat ) in 2+ years ,I am beginning to get kinda frustrated with never finishing said "Boat " I bet you 90% of your subscribers really don't care if your roof leaks on the 800 hundredth project we just want you to finish at least the first 2 boats good grief, I will give you a few more episodes but you really need to get with the program and FINISH YOUR FIRST BOAT. please. At this point you could change your channel name to (half done sczophoenic projects channel ) Your craftsmanship is outstanding but unless you are going to start rehabbing a damn UBOAT I will have to unfollow you unless you can change directions. Please get back to the other boats and not the discotheque please.
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Don’t miss out on Bambu Lab’s exciting deals of the year!
shrsl.com/2p9t9-2yn7-1cwx9
From December 3rd to January 3rd, explore amazing offers on our XMAS Page and grab the best deal of the season. 🎄
#bambulab #bambulabA1 #bambulabp1s #bambulabs
with the ceiling I'm pretty sure you either need to either have kind of open-air venting, or completely fill the void between the roof and ceiling panels with some kind of closed cell foam, otherwise the condensation is still going to condense from the warm air on to the cooler surface.
40 years in building trades has taught me that everyone has an opinion, so here's mine. Your approach to solving the condensation problem is the correct one. The more you can prevent warm, moist air from getting past the insulation, the more you will reduce condensation. 'Dead air' will insulate but just like 'hermetically sealed' is a lofty goal.
You are doing the right thing for that condensation humidity. Restricting any interior air from getting near the roof is the key. Vapor barriers are performing this function in housing.
If you still detect moisture… just find where the barrier on the interior is imperfect…rather than going from the outside.
Great fun to see the awesome projects you take on.
G'day Crew,
Great to see new vids from you , hope to see more in 2025. Always enjoy the episodes you produce, with marine tech being my favourite. Been watching you from your very first vid, keep them comming .
Best wishes for 2025 ,
Happy New Year.
Respect...!
You should be able to find an eaves filler strip which is designed to go under the roofing sheet where it meets the top of the wall plate, if not you can measure the air gaps on the roof panels and then 3D print a template so you can make foam stoppers to fill those gaps and stop the cold air getting under the sheets
You really answered your question by yourself. Vapour barrier. it goes on the bottom side of the insulation. Tape up all the seams as you did the insulation.Really you should do the walls too, but atleast just doing the roof will help out immensely!
drinks... above the batteries... i love it!
Great job!👍🤝
At a minimum to cure the condensation problem, you should have a sheet plastic vapor barrier between the metal roof panels and the ceiling insulation panels. The vapor barrier would hopefully allow the condensate to flow out from the edges of the roof. As is, the water will eventually cause mold issues and eventually attack the insulation panels as well.
Nope, you need to stop the water getting to the cold surface. Putting a water barrier between the metal roof and insulation will do virtually nothing
@@timfish correct, it needs to be on the lower side (inside) - you need to stop the warm air (containing more water) getting in contact with a cold surface
Vapor barrier ought to be between the room and the innermost, warmest surface You got.
When you see a opportunity you jump on it. I also have to many (cool) projects, but when you enjoy them, why not? Keep it up! 🛠⚡️🏆
I have a boat from 1958. 5 classic cars, 3 classic motorcycles and a 200 years old house 😅
3 classic cars, 11 classic bicycles, and 114 year old house. 😅
@@Peter-jo3wt Haha! Super! We should start a club! ☝️😅🛠️
@@Peter-jo3wt And now I wonder: which cars you have? Love to know!
@kaydesign
A '77 El Camino, 86k,
a '64 Buick LaSabre, 33k, 425 nail head, bought to race,
and a 1927 Model T w/
less than 1000 miles.
Used as a Doodlebug for 5 years before being parked in '32.
5 ? You ?
The moisture on your ceiling is not coming from the gaps in the roofing panels. It comes from inside and condenses on the cold underside of the roof. The sealing tape will help as would a complete vapour barrier and better ventilation inside
Agreed, it's mostly coming from the exhaled moisture in your breath. Proper ventilation will help unless the outside air is saturated as well. You might have to use a dehumidifier. With the ceiling sealed up, it will just condense somewhere else, most likely on the windows or any exposed steel.
@@thomask.8533 We use dehumidifiers in our art studio and main house to keep moisture down to an acceptable level. The UK is particularly damp during the winter months. And with the added need to prevent heat loss our older homes become breeding grounds for damp and condensation as we add draught proofing and insulation. If I had the money I'd install an air to air heat exchanger with dehumidifier.
Wij wensen jullie een gezond en voorspoedig 2025 💖💖💥
Bedankt voor de leuke video’s
You should use spray foam, no gaps for condensation to form.
Halo, the best way to eliminate condensation is to place the insulation on the outside or ensure that no warm air comes into contact with the metal roofing. This can be achieved by using expanding foam (closed cells low expansion) to securely attach the insulating material with no air gap.
On a “normal” house, the insulation and the tiles also have space where air can circulate, and on the inside you have a “humidity barrier”, so the humidity from the inside can’t affect the insulation and create condensation.
Your roof, insulation and inside are not separate and you will probably get the problem again if you don’t “close” the inside to the outside.
You should have put up a “barrier” on the inside against the insulation.
You will still get condensation above your sheets my friend , were there is a Air gap in the sheet valleys it will form .
You need to take them all down then spray foam the sheet first then re- fit them 😁👍
If your taping seals the inside completely you will not have any more condensation. There are a lot of tinkerers around ventilation and humidity barriors but you are on the right track, it is the hot inside air (that can carry more humidity) that is condensating on the cold metal roof. Also you should try to achieve a slight "under pressure" inside so you dont push out the inside air into the insulation, easiest achieved by drawing air out with fans (typically in kitchen and bathroom) and having inlets in the other rooms. This is the simplest form of working ventilation.
The ridges or channels in the underside of the ceiling steel can serve as ventilation channels for air to flow from eves to a ridge vent. Circulate air drawn in around the perimeter and vent it out the centre/top. It doesn't have to have high volume to keep the condensation down, it just has to be moving.
Just in case you are not aware, they make an EVA foam profile seal that fits the contour of your roofing material. It's cheap and you just place it into the irregular gap and it seals out weather, insects, etc.
If you heat the vent convers with a heat source, you can bend them to match the radius of the pipe. Used that method several times with my 3D prints. Nice work!
Big fan, sorry to hear of your troubles with the roof. Building science can be a bugger, but its pretty simple once you get a hang of it. You need what is called a vapor diffusion port. That should fix your issue, along with a dehumidifier possibly and a heat pump water heater. All the best.
No thats not the only Problem. He got condenastion from the inside with the heated and moist Air on all the airgaps between the Panels but also on the seems to the steel structure. Since the Steel is cold on the outside. He can try to solve it with the Tape or a vapor barrier.
BUT he got also Condenastion on the outside above the insulation. Thats from the outside air comming into the airgap below the metal roof.
AND outside air condenastion in the gaps between the panels and in the ssems to the metal beams, petruding fasteners and wallpaneljoints and so on.
He have to solve the Proplem from both sides!
With a vaporbarrier claerly but also from the outside against standing and runnig water. Not even the Rain or Snow thats an extra Layer. Just for the condenastion or directly freezing water on the oputside of the insulation layer.
I would say rip off the existing roof and put the wallpanels all arround without any gaps above all Metal Beams. Connect this Insulation layer airtight to the Wallpanels and close the gaps with a adhesive water and vaportight tape.
@@Total_Egal I was assuming the roof was air sealed, getting everything sealed and perfect is hard unless you use spray foam. I'd recommend open-air venting with a peaked roof then you can just do a ceiling of gypsum board, insulation and thats it. You don't need a vapor barrier because the gypsum board is the vapor barrier. But if you don't go this route and everything is closed you need to seal everything and use a vapor barrier. As well as the vapor diffusion port. That's very complicated though and all that requires expensive barriers, expensive insulation, expensive caulks, etc. With open air, its not only simpler, but cheaper.
Watching this episode and what the topics were, why not use the fans to help with the moisture problem. Evac the smoke to the area above the foam and thus out from under the edge of the roof. The moving air may push some of the moisture out and get the both issues fixed together.
Use cans of instant spray foam sealer in the trapezoid gaps on the outside. The foam will expand and seal each side there fore stopping the ingress of the cold into the ceiling.
For your roof, you might need some forced air venting to help evaporate the moisture, or at least force most of the moisture out.
Yes, the answer is one of two options to eliminate condensation - increase airflow in a void (which you just sealed), or completely seal up all voids. You need a better roof substrate and a rubber membrane.
I admire your attention to detail and your evaluation of the results of previous decisions.
Take spray foam and spray it on the end of the roof to prevent so much cold air from moving through that may help the condensation as well.
I'd use the "alutrix" steam barrier on your metal roof.
Frim top to bottom : the roof, the isolation, then the Alutrix steam barrier.
Finishing the details with Tescon tape :-)
you can buy eave fillers for that roof sheet profile which go on the outside capping off the ends of the steel sheets stopping more air from flowing through
What you need to do to fix the condensation problem is spray foam insulate the entire under surface of the roof metal. As long as you have the metal sheet exposed to the cold exterior air and the warm moist interior air, it will make condensation. Sealing the cracks with tape will only hold the moisture in the ceiling and cause mold and corrosion.
Get some dehumidifiers. The tape will help but because there is no air movement above the instillation you qill get humidity in there.
I would spray foam at the least the out side of the roof in the raised ridges. Then add sealant.
Let's see... I'm pretty sure that the source of the water above your ceiling is from the cold surface (roof) condensing the humidity from the cabin. Like others have suggested, you need to either eliminate the source of water (humidity) flowing to the cold surface or insulate the cold surface. Possibly the easiest solution would be to make a low volume, closed loop air circulation system that flows air between the ceiling insulation and the cold roof. Inline with that air loop, ideally, there would be some sort of de-humidifier which directs the condensate overboard or a desiccant that you can change periodically. I suggest a "closed loop" system so you do not loose too much cabin heat through the cold roof due to convection, although some loss is inevitable...
Simply "sealing" the insulation with tape will just trap the water that does get in (it will) and create an incubating space mold or fungus.
hi mate ,,,you can get foam insert strips to match your roof profile ,,,,probably from the same company tou got the sheets from ok cheers from the uk
can you use a dehumidifier to minimize the moisture on the inside of the roof?
Hi man,
Happy New Year.
Nice what you all achieved with the living boat
Hallo, ich finde gut wie sich alles bei dir entwickelt und folge deinen Weg schon lang. Mich würde dein Batteriespeicher mit den Victron Komponenten interessieren.
Gibt es dazu auch ein Video? Ich konnte dazu bisher nichts finden.
Viele Grüße und einen guten Rutsch ins Jahr 2025
Volker
People spill drinks. I'd make the box round the batteries waterproof.
BTW, what you call duck tape most people in the English-speaking world would call masking tape.
duct tape not duck tape
Spray foam will sort the roof mate, I had the same problem in my shed
Cool video, just add in a dehumidifier to help resolve moisture problem
spray foam then put the panels back would get rid of all the excess air space and would stay dry better
Die Idee mit dem Diffussionssperrentape ist ja nett. Klappt aber so nur bei Gebäuden mit hoher Luftfeuchtebelastung von Innen und Dichter Gebäude Außenhülle. Dort ist die Problemlage aber andersn. Der Taupunkt sitzt somit dort in der Wand und dort drinne kann keine Feuchte aus der in der massiven Wand ja nicht vorhandenen Luft auskondensieren.
Dein Problem ist unter dem Dachblech kommt sehr leicht Außenluft hinein und kondensiert dort aus.
Ebenso Durchbrechen die Stahlträger die Dämmschicht und wirken als Kondensationspunkte.
Alles in allem ist die Konstruktion so leider nicht sinnvoll.
Beis in den Sauren Apfel und bau ein Dach mit den Wandelementen. Halt nicht rund sondern als Spitzdach leicht Schräg mit Dachspitze oder als Pultdach.
Alle Wand Anschlüße definitiv gründlich verschäumen und offene Dämmstellen und Schaum mit Dichtband versehen. Das noch Verblechen oder Verkleiden gegen Witterung, Viechzeug und weils bessere Aussieht.
Für einfache Betretbarkeit kann man immer noch Laufstege auf beide Seiten mit etwas Abstand aufbauen oder gar ein ganzes Schutzdach über der eigentlichen Hülle verbauen. Z.b. mit dem bisherigen Trapezblech mit 5cm Abstand. Dann hast du da Luftspalt über deinem eigentlichen Dach. Wäre Regen und Sonnenschutz und kannst die Zwischenlage im Sommer als natürlich ventiliertes Dach kühler bekommen.
Was du da definitiv brauchst ist ein vollwertiges dichtes Dachsystem das quasi so auch bei Häusern eingesetzt wird mit entsprechender Lage für Wasserablauf bei Regen und Schnee . Sowie eben vollständige Luft/Wasserdichtigkeit nach beidne Seiten und in der Dämmebene gegen dein Kondenastionsproblem.
Dein Taupunkt der außenluft liegt dort nunmal außen fast auf der Dämmlage bzw. eben unter dem Trapezblech hier.
Diese Verbindung zwischen den Schichteh muss Luftdicht (bzw. Wasserdampfdicht) sein.
Und gleichzeitig muss diese Außenlage aber ebenso Kondensationswasser bzw. gefrierendes Kondensationswasser wie rauhreif, Eis oder eben Tau als Laufwasser ableiten. Wetterdicht bzw. Regendicht/Schneefest könnte auch eine weitere Lage mit etwas Abstand sein. Oder die Außenhaut muss eben alles auf einmal leisten.
Das ist dein Außenluft Kondensationsproblem.
ABER du hast ebenso ein Innenluftkondensationsproblem! All die Stahlträger, durchstechenden Verschraubungen, Rohren, die Luftspalte zwischen den Platten um die Träger ringsrum. All das sind Kältepunkte bei denen dein Innenraumwasserdampf ebenso den dort befindlichen Taupunkt erreicht und ebenso auskondensiert.
Du hast also das Kondensationsproblem von beiden Seiten. Ich sehe da nur diese Wandplatten als komplett durchgehende isolationslage als die Lösung die irgendwie Handhabbar ist.
Don't forget to add ventilation on the battery box
Aren't you afraid of the formation of mould between the roof and the insulation?
A forced ventilation would help?
Now you have isolated the Perspex plates with Ducttape, you need to cover the whole sealing from left to right and from front to back with a plastic layer that locks your inner space in a air tight way so that no air or moisture can pass this barrier. So all this plastic tracks should also be taped with plastic isolation tape (that’s is better than duct tape) . Only than you will have a real isolation that is airtight and closed!
Stacking the fans so close is a poor idea. The second one will do little, You could do with separating them if you can, ideally between sections to the air stop rotating between them, but at least a few inches between would help (especially with some fins in it to stop the air rotating, as you have a printer). Getting one that has reverse blades would work so close, but you cant just turn the one you have around and run it backwards, thats the same as it is now.
Even then, I don't think that setup will pull enough volume.
Add a ducted fan along one side of the ceiling, for it to blow through the gaps. It will cycle the moist air out from the roof. Even better if you can drop the ceiling by 2cm
I think if you had it sprayed with foam it would seal it there wouldn't be any air space.
when you screw inox/stainless steel on the regular boat structure steel, I'd expect corrosion sources from electrolysis over time, if not isolated (sika around screws zum Beispiel) 🤔?
Du brauchst zwischen der Isolierung und dem Blechdach eine Dampfsperre.
ja ich glaub das ist ein klassisches beispielt für "dampfsperre vergessen". Die warme luft kann mehr feuchtigkeit aufnehmen und kondensiert an der kalten decke ab. eine einfache PVC folie unterhalb der isolierung sollte das verhindern.
I would buy a pockethole jig, a lot of your wood screws + dowels could be replaced with a hidden pockethole instead.
Spray foam on the roof inside is probably the answer.
I foresee a lot of rattles when the music goes on?
The party boat will be sweaty anyway lol :D
e: love the stretched grills from blender :)
At this point I think you could rename the channel Blue Balls Boat Restoration! 😅
Always enjoy your videos whatever the content. I was thinking that a coat of FlexSeal on the roof might help with the condensation issue. Have a great New Year!
The condensation also happens on the outside of the Insulation layer. Yea sure Sometimes also below the Roofmetal but dripping onto the insulation Layer below. But allways in this Airgap.
He needs something like a sprayfoam insulation (who might not be working as well es some might think. Since there are steelbeams petruding the Insulation Layer!
But better would be to change the roof to the wallpanel system. Since there is no airgap between the outer vapor and raintight shell and the insulation layer.
Just redefine "Finished". No need to feel bad about needing variation and change. Much respect for what you do and dare to take on!
you need spray foam. no air between insulation and steel. look for Shipping container insulation. you face the same problem.
Erstmal danke für deine Videos. Ich habe keine Ahnung ob das funktioniert, aber würde es nicht helfen von einer Seite zur anderen eine Art Lüftung durch die Kanäle zu schaffen? Damit würde doch verhindert, das dort sich Staunässe bildet.
Da hast du dir ja schön das ganze Kondenswasser eingeschlossen!
Could you use expanding foam in voids of the roof?
He could but you can not realy asure you close all airgaps. Maybee with Sprayfoaminsulation.
But the steelbeams are still petruding the insulation layer. On them will be Condenastion from the outside and the inside air.
You could hope for the beast putting sprayfoam all arrund and a vapor barrier from the inside.
But in my optinion the only solution is to use the wallpanels above the steel construction as a roof.
Connect the Insulation layer airtight to the wall. Vaporbarrier from both sides. And additional the outside needs protection layer against Weather, Rain, Condenastion and so on... he got a serious problem inherent in the (wrong) base construction of that thing.
RV Camper, Arctic/Sibierian Expedition Vehicles, Commercial Housboats.. all those constructions got a not interrupted continous watertight and airtight insulation layer all arround. Usually a booring rectangular box made out of composit panels like he used on the walls.
Interresting to know the first Arctic Expedition Vehicle also got a water condensation problem with Insualtion Layer petruding Stuff.
Simple a Screws holding the Panels, a weldet on Standoff, surely Steelbeams or even only the Steel Edge Protection of the Panels or the Doorjam (metal) Profile. all of it was a condensation point or in this extreme conditiond even got that cold it was having ice on the srewheads inside the cabin. Forming long Ice neadles.
Its an extreme Example but it ilustrates the Problem he got verry well.
@@Total_Egal vapor barrier from the inside
Keep up the good work 🌞🌞👏👏
What a waste of what could be a beautiful and comfy live-aboard boat.
Ceiling will not be vapor proof this way. You still need another layer of vapor barrier hermetically closed in within the 10°C (or better 12°C) line of Your temperature profile. Condensation is a b**ch on boats, and it gets nastily unhealthy real quick.
I've been working and living on boats for 35 years, they are never done until the day you sell them.
I really hated to give a thumbs-down for the video. I'm an absolute fan of your channel. But please... finish something.
For me as long as it's this boat or the original one I'm happy. However I do understand your comment. First this was a party boat, then a house boat and now a podcast studio?
Agreed. Also doing stuff for expediency (walls and ceilings need vapour barrier to keep out condensation) which will have to be revisited again in future, and doing it “close enough” just doesn’t do it for me. I subscribed for a houseboat build that’s non-existent… I’m out.
Sadly your inspiration for the video is your sponsor 😢, again and again 😮
I enjoy the videos regardless of what he wants to do with his many boats.
I follow these videos from the Philippines.
Happy New Year to all.
@JaakkoHeikura he has no idea where to waste money next would be great to see one boat finished and sold
Putting a countertop for drinks directly above your electronics is probably not a good idea.
Is there a name for the disorder you have with all them boats?
when I saw the title I thought you were gonna be building a yacht xD P.S. SMOKE MACHINE!!!
13:20 not going to work, you need to air gap everything.
Warum keine DIY Raumlufttechnischeanlage (RLT)? Ähnlich wie die Foganlage.
Can you fish from the boat and make a soup at it?
Happy New Year
I just want you to finish the boat I started watching the channel for.
I dont really care about an electronic music dance hall boat tbh.
😮 mon ami, je sais que les batteries produisent un gas chimique qui peu produire un risque pour la santé. Ça serait peut-être bien de faire un échappement d’air pour dégager ce danger.
Thanks for sharing, I have really enjoyed watching your videos for many years now. External insulation is a good idea. I use 45 mm thick Eva insulated rubber horse mats on my boat roof which is also curved. These mats are normally used to go on the floors of very fancy stables...They are extremely weatherproof and long lasting.. I just placed them directly on top of my roof and then weigh them down with a high density heavy rubber mat on top against the wind.... They also spread out any loads so that it feels fine to walk around on top of the roof.... Best wishes and do keep up all your wonderful work. Thanks again
Amazing Craftsmanship and Restoration 👍🏻👍🏽👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
Fix the ceiling right or the MOLD will kill you!
EDM showcase on a boat....this is aggressively German.
Keep up the good work. I also need variety in my projects to keep me motivated.
I have been subscribed and watching since your first boat. I hate duck tape, you are using much more advanced tape to seal out internal moisture that is getting up there to condensate (probably dozens of experts are going to tell you how to "fix" that) so that is an insult to quality tape everywhere. LOL. I also like gaffers tape (for mike/speaker cables and other things I don't want covered with duck tape splooge), kapton/polyimide tape to isolate things electronically and sometimes chemically as it doesn't typically outgas (they use in on orbital platforms on the ISS), wiring loom cloth tape for low temp wires where I don't what to use more expensive tapes, PTFE tape (for battery cables, high temp things), liquid electrical tape and then there is copper and aluminum tape. Traditional duck tape (at least on the American side) is an abomination).
condensation, winter problem only..? use a positive pressure heating sytem.. this means cool air from outside, superheated, pumped inside. hot air furnace is game. I live in maine usa..even wooden houses do weird things. I had a couple of all steel mobile huts as well. Something as simple as a little wabasto gets a lot of it.
👍🏻
Did you cut your hair?
Ok this is where I unsubscribe. Good luck.
I’m outta here!!!
Best wishes and happy New year and good 2025
Schade zu sehen wie sehr du dein Potenzial verwirfst. Eine absolute Schande ist dein lüftungssystem. Eine ausrangierte dunstabzugshaube hätte es 20mal effektiver getan. Die kleinen Lüfter sind nie gebaut worden große luftmengen zu bewegen, sondern viel statischen Druck zu erzeugen.
I enjoy seeing your floating "village" of boats.
You finally lost me at electronic music and smoke machine, good grief.
🎉
👍
50% here and 50% there equals 100% Nature of the beast.
I was a fan of your channel, but now nothing is finished. Also your ceiling will be a swimming pool above the plates. Condesation will stay there and rotten your plates. Sorry but i will unfollow you.
My first flotilla?
I have been with you since the beginning, and the reason I watch your channel was to watch you finish (Your First Boat) I have been patiently waiting for you to finish the (first boat) ,but as you have begun 15 different projects and still haven't finished (Your First Boat ) in 2+ years ,I am beginning to get kinda frustrated with never finishing said "Boat " I bet you 90% of your subscribers really don't care if your roof leaks on the 800 hundredth project we just want you to finish at least the first 2 boats good grief, I will give you a few more episodes but you really need to get with the program and FINISH YOUR FIRST BOAT. please. At this point you could change your channel name to (half done sczophoenic projects channel )
Your craftsmanship is outstanding but unless you are going to start rehabbing a damn UBOAT I will have to unfollow you unless you can change directions. Please get back to the other boats and not the discotheque please.