I've been plumbing for the past 60 years and it's nice to see someone like you to take the time to show others how to do their own work. I would like to add though that it would also be helpful if you mentioned the importance of well fluxed joints in addition to the importance of the cleaning because it requires both to ensure a leak free job. In addition, to be sure that you have no leaks when soldering any fitting, you should always put flux on both the fitting, and on the pipe. One leak in the basement of a two story home after you turn on the water is not worth the extra work you'll have to go through after you've filled the entire system with water and have to wait for it to drain in order to fix the leak. Finally, while a solder joint with lead drippings all around the pipe might work fine, it sure looks a whole lot better if the joint is wiped with a piece of steel wool or a rag after the joint is full, and says a lot about someones work ethic. The best part is, it only takes a second to clean it. Keep up the good work.
Sharkbites in my opinion are great for quick fixes in areas you can see, but I would never put them in a wall their are many things that come with putting a sharkbite on, many put them on wrong for example your not supposed to sand the copper ( don’t believe me it’s on their website) and they just aren’t as secure again in my opinion over press, crimp, solder, etc.
You clearly don't know what you are talking about, I hope your not a licensed plumber and instead just some "ill do it cheap" handy man doing some tacky work with this "knowledge" you have.
I am a retired plumbing contractor and all I can say is thanks to RUclips and the invention of Pex many plumbers are out of business. Pex is a cheap material to install water supply to fixtures. It also may cause pressure imbalances which can lead to scalding. I never used the stuff and ALWAYS used copper for my water supply lines. Pex has a smaller ID which can cause these imbalances.
I agree it has changed the industry but things change it's just the way it goes it's always been that way from the first model t to come off the assembly line now to address the other if you have 50 psi in a 1/2 inch pipe or a 10 inch pipe it's still 50 psi all we've changed is the volume and today's single handle valves being pressure balancing and all I don't see it making any noticeable difference I've also been In the business a very long time and run miles and miles of copper do i like pex not so much from a standpoint of doing a nice neat job but does it perform as they say it does that I have to agree on and cpvc as well I've never seen it fail over time such as copper does under a slab perhaps or somewhere in a very bad place to repair in fla we don't have basements and everything is run under the slab with no soldered joints all soft copper and it fails very often whereas the other products as cheap and flimsy as they are have a better reputation for not failing it can even touch concrete and not have any adverse effect on it accept rubbing no electrolysis or other such. Things that can happen to copper I don't like it any more than you do but you have to admit it has its place no ?
I'm an HVAC tech, i am constantly doing torch work. A simple piece of small sheet metal will protect that wood that can ignite very easily, especially older pine. otherwise, great video. thanks for taking the time to make it.
That's right, Rob! Even better, solder together first away from wood locations. Once you have the roughing in place with a dry fit, solder together your build, then cool it off to touch with a handy bucket of water and a rag. It only takes a couple of seconds! Not keeping a healthy habit of whipping water clean, all your soldering at the joint promotes acid-like copper turning early. The elbow ears land too close to the corner, and not at the center (the meat) of the wood framing. Short cuts are not for me! Once you break out and start the torching, why not finish it uniformly with copper? APEX is a degrade at this point!
I am headed to a friend's house tomorrow morning, to replace his shower valve. The plumbing is currently copper and we are converting to PEX. Thank you for this video!
I don't know if this will help anyone but I use a small piece of Scotch tape on the crimp ring when I'm lining it up. Just tape it to the pipe where you want it right before you crimp it and it won't go anywhere. There's totally room for a little error with these crimp rings but I personally like to be sure it's right the first time. Saves a lot of frustration on vertical lines, too. :)
First off - I absolutely love your videos and find them very useful. So don't take this as being critical. Just my personal take on how I'd approach this, but I always try to absolutely minimize the amount of flame soldering I have to do near the framing. So I personally would have sweated your tub-spout piece onto the control manifold on a bench, or table, held in a vise. Much safer and more comfortable. None of that flame-work needed to be done up against the framing. And for the sweat->pex adapters on the two feeds,, where you have to do it within the framing, just for safety, I always use a spray bottle with water to wet the wood around the area where I'm using my torch. Especially within old, existing framing that may have wood that has been dried out for decades and catches fire like a paper. Takes 10 seconds to spray things down and make things way safer. Basically, once I get the copper->pex adapters in place, I don't usually see any reason to use a flame near wood again.
Code requires a Shut-Off or Stopcock at every hot or cold line at lavatory & kitchen sinks, toilets and laundry, but they are not required at the tub and shower. Whenever possible, I always add ball valve stopcocks at the tub & shower if at all possible, with an access panel through the wall of the adjacent room. Nice to be able to turn the water off at the tub & shower, without shutting down the entire house if you have to change a valve cartridge, if the valve does not have integrated shut-offs. The stopcocks also serve as caps during the installation. Once the tile or surround goes in, this area can be very difficult to address any future issues.
@@SovereignTroll Yes, I mentioned valves with integrated shut-offs and I'm pleased to see that they are becoming more common from a number of manufacturers.
I'm hesitant to say anything since I don't want to jinx it, but I actually cut off the copper pipes and soldered the fittings and attached pex pipes. I have a lot more to do, but just getting that done was huge. I never would have attempted this before I watched this video. I flooded the bathroom (and two rooms below it)a couple weeks ago and I had a leak for a while and had to dump out water several times a day. I managed to finally get it stopped but was unsure what to do. The lowest estimate I got for replacing the faucets was 1000 and part of the reason I' m doing the work myself is to save money. I really believe I can do this now. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I always enjoy Mr. Thorman's videos. They're very instructive. In this copper to PEX video, he seems to gloss over the application of flux prior to soldering. Putting flux on both pieces to be joined is imperative. It's a point that needs to be driven home for DIY folks. Also, I've always used aluminum foil or sheet metal to cover any nearby framing to protect it from the torch. You'll notice the studs glowing red during the torching. That makes me a little nervous, especially when instructing inexperienced people.
i'm 68 years old and learned soldering from my father who learned from his father who was a "pipefitter" by trade. my dad taught me to always "tin" every solder joint first before the final soldering. for those who don't know what solder "tinning" is - you basically heat up each joint and apply a coat of solder around the entire joint. you do this on EVERY pipe end and coupling. then when you go to solder each component together, you heat up the pipe and/or adapter/coupling and because both pieces have solder already on them, there is no chance of missing a spot which could create a leak. Tinning is an additional step in soldering but i believe it is a common practice with all "old" plumbers.
Jeff, you are an outstanding instructor. Your delivery inspires confidence and your teaching technique is clear and visually effective. Thank you for teaching us amateur handypeople.
Thank you for a great video - very nice job! I'm not a professional plumber but learned as a teen next to a WWII greatest generation grandfather who was. May I suggest a few small additions? First, wear leather gloves and eye protection in case a beginner sweeps their hand/face with torch flame, drops the torch, or touches the pipe while being heated. Second, after cutting the copper pipe with the pipe cutter, de-burr the cut end of the pipe on the inside and outside. You made a nice clean cut using slow quarter inch increasing pressure turns, but a beginner may end up with burs. Having a sopping wet rag nearby allows you to wipe the excess solder off the joint and cool it down faster. It you are sweating together pipe and a fitting not connected to the house yet, hold the pieces with vise-grip pliers that can handle the flame/heat and drop the joined pipe and fitting into a bucket of water to immediately quench the soldered joint and cool everything off. Always have a fire extinguisher nearby in case the torch ignites old sawdust or (it happens), the plumber's clothing/hair! Last, show the viewer the pipe dope you applied and apply the acid paste to BOTH the pipe and the inside of the fitting to make sure no missed spots. Just a few things I learned from a wonderful, hard working man who took the time to teach me when I was young.
Thank you. This is such a good video for those of us who know nothing about plumbing. During Uri a plumber asked $400 to cut my copper line to an exterior faucet and cap it so we could turn our water back on for the house until he could return months later and gauge me again. I'll never forget those days without water. Or what he charged me to do what I could've done myself if I had a clue. Live and learn. Currently, still working on that same plumbing job after the 4th plumber came and did another halfa-- job. Uri was in 1921. All I want is a good, honest plumber. That might be me at this rate.
You have become my go-to guy for renovations. not only are your explanations very easy to understand but your sense of humor adds to the quality of your tutorials. thanks.
I am an ex city trader who has ventured into holiday lets and property flips in the UK. However - on the next one *budget in speculative area* i have decided to do as much as i can myself. I have marathoned these videos and the way you demonstrate and explain has filled me with great confidence. Great channel and thanks for breaking everything down for us unskilled.
The most complete, comprehensive, articulate, well lighted, well videographer, well explained guide on almost ANYTHING I've ever Googled. Simply amazing. Thank you so much. I'm guessing you have to be careful what product you recommend; however, I'm in a 2013 Athens Mt Pine mobile home (fitted throughout with Pex) and need to replace the shower-only valve (no tub), meaning I've got quite a project ahead. I have 2 questions if you have time: 1) What TOP LINE replacement might you recommend and 2) Do I have to replace the shower faucet as well or can I just use the same existing one (for now I don't care if the shower head and faucet don't match!). Ever so grateful for this video. It is so thorough, so complete, no questions as to removal/replacement.
Your son does a good job with the camera. If he's as smart as I think he is, he'll learn as much about home maintenance and such from you as he can. I worked alongside my Dad when I was a kid. As an adult, I've almost never had to pay anyone else to repair anything I own. It's a huge financial advantage.
People were giving you different opinion, because they got nothing better to do or to concerns themselves with. I am a big fan of yours and have learned a lot from your videos. Thank you so much
In school I learned to finalize the solder joint with a rag. I’m not keen on using the flux brush as it may cool the joint too quickly. I would also use a heat shield behind that valve while torching.
Jeff I am sure someone has already told you this but just in case. Tip, sand the pipe before you cut it, it's easier the pipe does not move! Love your show even as a master plumber, electrician and HVAC mechanic I don't know much about remodel work as I am on the service side only, no remodel or new construction work yet! Also I would suggest soldering the copper on the shower valve prior to mounting it to the support. This will avoid burning the board or the homeowner not just dripping flux on the tub which will wipe off, however when they use excess solder and that hot solder drops on the tub that's another situation.
Excellent instructional. I always refer to this video with my customers when they have diy copper to pex questions. As far as the plug in the drop ear where the shower arm goes, Home Depot sells 1/2 in male shower test plugs for $3 a pop.
Love your videos!! Thank you so much!! It took days to get my courage up to try soldering copper pipes today I converted to pex requiring 3 solders and first time crimper lol, success!! It is a start now that I have gained some confidence will design the system with drains etc for winterization....you're an amazing teacher especially for video's as you have mastered the right amount of chat to keep it interesting and personable - like we are hanging out lol, also appreciate your information on how it works and why things are done a certain way. Much Appreciation!!
I have to say This Man is the Ultimate Translator. For All those who Disliked this Video. Get a Life. Thank You Jeff for Step by Step Break Down of Everything. From Every DYI'er Out there, You were Our Personal Instructor. Blessings and Remember Haters are Probably Your Biggest Fans 😁😁😁😂😂😂 Good Work I am Definitely Subscribing
Wish I had seen this video before I ordered pex B to plumb my tiny house. I’ll be using Shark Bite knockoff connectors for the push to connect features. If I had it to do over again, I would’ve bought the crimp tool and connected that way. The expansion ring tool was out of my range and I didn’t want to do the manual expansion tool because I’m 68 and not very nimble once I’m on the floor. Thanks for this video. One very good tip I did take away is the correct technique for cutting PEX tubing.
For anyone who wants to install PEX, try to use Uponor-type fittings where you EXPAND the PEX pipe over the fitting instead of crimping the PEX pipe over the fitting because the 'expanded-PEX' type fittings have a much larger opening in them, so you get a faster flow of water when the job is finished. Avoid SharkBite fittings in closed walls. But if the pipe is going to a toilet or a sink then it doesn't matter there since the final pipe is going to be a really small 3/8" riser tube anyways, so a crimped-type of fitting on 1/2" PEX pipe is totally okay in those areas.
I agree Pex A avoids necking down at the fitting as much as Pex B. The hand tool to expand on Amazon with an automatic head rotation was about $160. It came with 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1" expanders and a cutter and a tool to cut off a Pex plastic ring if you make a mistake. I paid just over $4 for 25 Pex A plastic expansion rings. Pex A 1/2" pipe is currently $35 for 100 feet.
I also thought pex A with expansion fittings was a superior product when first learning about pex. My mind has changed since learning that pex A leaches significant chemicals and is no longer recommended for potable water systems. That bit of info explained why I have only ever seen Pex B with crimp fitting used in residential houses.
Jeff! I cannot thank you enough for all of the help that you have provided through your videos. Kudos to you for taking the time to help others be successful, rather than criticizing home owners for trying to do things on their own. I am very grateful! My question for you: In this video, you mentioned that some manufacturers thread some of the holes to attach the valve to the wall blocking. On my valve, all four holes are threaded but no machined screws were included in the kit. Do I need to try and find the right threaded machined screws or can I simply attach via nail, or slightly smaller screw? Thank you!
Your Show is amazing and helpful this week I called plumber for 25minutes put shower mixture from copper to PX charged150.00 CAD and 60.00 CAD for 5feet PX 1/2inches and 4 elbow joint. You taught me lot. Shawn from CAN
Thanks for speaking 'english' and your clarity of instructions for the DIYer. Really enjoyed your instructions, even after doing much of my own DIY projects.
So nice to see someone who understands soldering so many people/videos use the torch to melt the solder. If the workpiece it's self is not hot enough to melt the solder it will not form the necessary amalgam. This is also true of electrical soldering apply the solder to the workpiece not the iron or torch. Nice video.
One of my first jobs after getting out of the Marine Corps was at a machine shop soldering carbide tool tips to steel mounting pieces. You are SO right! If you try to force the solder in by melting it instead of the workpiece, you don't get good adhesion and your piece will fall apart under pressure.
First off, I suspect the down comments are by profession plumbers who hate that you show how easy it is for the home handy person to do. At what height did you set the top drop earned connector for the shower spout? I am getting ready to install my pex. I will be switching to a copper pipe for the tub stub out as well. I was not sure when I purchased my stuff. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos.
You are a really good teacher. Your video is perfect!!! The filming, the comments, the work, everything. You were born to do this!!! Thanks a million!!!
You are top notch. Pls ignore all the thumb downs, I'm sure you take constructive constructive criticism and make note of it. So many fools don't take time out to make anything but are quick to criticize other people's work.
Yep, this is best that I've ever seen. I'm a home flipper and always have to do a bathroom update/remodel. Good at tiling but this video changes the game for me. I've watched it multiple times and have did the Pex upgrade 6 times. Thanks for saving me the money!
going to be replacing the shower valve and shower surround at the cottage this September. This video is very helpful and gives me the confidence to do this on my own, especially since there isn't a plumber close or willing to take a half hour boat ride to the cottage.
To watch all the videos in this project click this link. ruclips.net/video/ziYQaxYQv94/видео.html And remember with playlists you can scroll through the videos using the arrows in the bottom left corner.
Jeff, love the show(s). Have you tried to use Uponor piping? aka. Pex-a. The tool is a bit expensive but making connections in tight spaces is a lot easier. Personally, I think it is even faster than using the crimp style piping.
Home RenoVision DIY maybe you can help me with something, a few months ago I put a single lever of those moen but it turns out that when I turn it on, water comes out from below and also a little above, maybe I put it wrong because it is the first time with that work you could tell me that I did wrong please?
Thank You for a straight forward video! Things have changed considerably since I replaced the plumbing in our house trailer! Went from the gray plastic >:( to white pex. I used the quest and flair-it fittings, they worked well, simple to install. Now almost impossible to find for the 12x24 mini-home I'm finishing out. Looks like more tools and new pex to buy. Oh"Yeah! thanks for the soldering tip, you just explained why MY sauter runs out of my joint, and leaks. I've been heating at the seam! This why pex & swage rings were made..... for people who cannot sauter!!!! heh-heh-heh
Okay. Now that I’ve removed all in one tub shower surround unit I see that I cannot just put concrete boards and seal. Darn it! The copper pipes are in the way! So I guess this in when I change over to plex tubing to simplify the process of replacing all in one t/s surround with a tube and tiled walls. My dear husband will assist with crimping. Yours truly, 64 year old female DIYer. Thanks Sir Thorman for all that you share🤗🤓
Great videos. I'm doing by my bathroom currently. I'm wondering why copper on tub line and PEX on two feed and shower not all PEX like in your other video explaining same thing.
Hey Joe you can't use PEX on the spout because it will not allow all the diverter inside your spout to work properly the inside of PEX pipe it's just slightly different than the inside of copper
@@Jlambert1213 my guess was that the spout needs to be attached to something solid, the copper is a lot more rigid than the pex. You dont want the tub spout connected to a flimsy piece of PEX.
you have two options to attach the tub spout... a long nipple (pipe thread) or 1/2" copper pipe. the other end needs to be anchored and pex does not have the strength. The brass elbow that is attached to the wood is made more rigid by the copper from the valve.
PEX won't flow as well as copper. Sometimes the shower will still spray water even with the diverter in the open position. If you read the instructions that come with most faucets, you'll see that the manufacturers specifically recommend using copper or steel only for the spout connection.
TXEN EMIT if we all give just 5% of what we save by watching all these DYI RUclips videos, these guys could make a small fortune and keep giving is money saving tips. And remember Black Rifles Matter!
Good video, and you explain things well. I'm an old fossil. If I were able to do the work I'd still use copper, but that's just me. I always had plenty of supplies and could sweat just about anything. I wish you had wiped the joints while the soldier was hot. Always kept a clean damp rag handy. Wiped joints are easier to feel leaks in a blind spot. Also the sign a pro did the job.
Not wanting to scan through 1,700+ comments thus far - is there a reason why you do not ream the insides of the copper pipe portion prior to soldering or pex connection? I was told that reaming prevents noise (from inside water turbulence) and also avoid possible pin hole leaking over time. True? Great video Jeff - you’re my go-to channel for all things Reno:). Jim
The reason why is because this dude is a handyman and not actually a plumber so he thinks he knows what he’s doing but really just causing issues for the customer in the future if you noticed when he capped off the pex line on the left he didn’t get the whole crimp this is bad I know he didn’t leave the cap in there permanently but what if he was to leave it that would cause issues in the future never use a handyman for plumbing or as a career plumber myself I’ve had to fix many issues caused by handymen get someone licensed to do the job right.
@@Apple-es8zr that crimp on the hot side (permanent one) 90 was half crimped. i feel bad for the homeowner when they are informed the wall needs to be opened to make a repair that takes 3 minutes.
@@stevenf3149 this is why I mentioned always get a real and licensed plumber to get the job done handyman no matter how good they want to be just aren’t it.
Just to add a lil more info. Make sure to ream and clean deburr every time you make a new cut on copper or any other pipes.it help the flow of water and prevent a future leak in the joint coused by turbulence in the water.👍👍good video
The DYI folks depend on quality videos like this - great work - you inspire confidence for the guy wanting to do his own work - keep up the great work! Cheers!
I’m an actual plumber. All I’m gonna say is thanks People like you keep me busy. It’s always more expensive to come re do something than if they’d just called me the first time. Do you do your own dental work too? Tell ya what. You do your job. Make money. Call experienced people to do their job Especially with plumbing or electrical. Unless of course you like water damage and fires
With what plumbers charge these days, it's no wonder people take on these projects themselves. Local plumber wanted $2500 to install tub. I said no thanks, and did it myself and it's been just fine. That said, there is a point where the level of skill required exceeds my abilities. But small stuff like this anyone can and should learn.
I like the ease in which you speak, just the facts, not a lot of over talking, to the point, clear concise. I learn from you. So thankful for your videos. Me and a friend gonna attempt to do a whole house plumbing replacement... gonna need to watch some more videos. 🤓
You are wonderful gentleman , very helpful, you give good guidance on how to proceed on doing the work and it helps in taking precautions for the DIY people who are novice. Your instructions are clean and clear and easily understandable. This is Anthony de Souza from Goa, India.
I had a plumber install a water heater hybrid style. He used this system to run lines from old site in laundry room to new site in the garage. Saves time and money.
Great video like always Jeff. Much appreciate you taking the time to explain in detail and love your energy and the way you work. Wondering if it's possible to add the names of list of items you used to finish this job. I take notes as I watch along to buy/rent the list of tools. Would be awesome if each video has a list of all tools used in it's own section in it's description
Thanks for demystifying solder joints - I wouldn't have dared try it for fear of not filling the joint proper. Now I understand how it works. Why do you still use copper for the faucet? Just rigidity? I asked my plumber to switch out the copper in my 1892 rowhouse for pex when he was installing my soaker tub (had to move the plumbing up), but he left copper between the shower head and faucet. (I figured that I'd never have to worry about a pinhole leak from corrosion in my old age if I upgraded as I do renos.)
How come you did not clean the soldered joints with a wet rag after you soldered but before it cooled, to take the excess flux off the copper so it does not corrode the copper over time?
jeff, I've learned a bunch from you sir. You've been a great help. I even watch some videos on things i'm not even currently doing because I just love your teaching style. great energy.
I love and learn so much from your instructional videos. Why are you not using red and blue pex? Also why did you use copper on the tub line? Thank you for all your postings.
After some research, I found this answer... "The tub spout can be copper, brass, or galvanized pipe. You cannot use pex because the pipe coming out of the valve needs to be able to support the weight of the tub spout and handle the abuse of pulling/ pushing down of the divirter built into the spout." Reference: www.plumbingforums.com/threads/why-copper-required-for-valve-to-tub-spout.7076/post-63194
@@BLUEmistRAY .... Don't know if this is true ,,, but from another PEX video ,,, copper used on the tub spout was because the Inside Diameter of PEX is not 1/2" ,, and having both Hot and Cold water on would put too much pressure on the spout and cause the water to backup in the system . I'll post a link to the video . He talks about it in the video ,,,, along with the crimping of PEX fittings . I always wondered ,,,, would it also be true for the shower ,, kitchen ,, and bathroom systems ? ( Because ,, most of those are using a 2 to 1 ,, Hot and Cold to one outlet ,, system ,,, ??? ) .
@@KZ3W Ah interesting... thanks He had logical reasoning so I'm going to assume it's true. Now I wondering though... what if 3/4" pex was used, then would it be OK?
You only need a turn and a half with sand cloth. All you need is to make a spiral like a gun barrel and by not de burring the inside of the copper you risk having that waterfall found or whistle. Keep up the clean work . Been plumbing 45 years
Do you ever need to put a heat shield behind what you're aiming the torch at, or is that one of those things where if you think you need it you're doing it wrong in the first place?
I know a plumber that burned down a apartment building, he was changing a shower valve and some embers went up inside the wall into the attic and started the fire.
Thank you . For taking the time to make these videos ,on how to replace or install things . I really like the way you talk us through everything. Keep up the good work and thank you again for time God bless
Good video I thought Flux was always used during soldering though. Also an option would have been to use a sharkbite adapter for the copper to pex conversion.
He uses flux, however only on the fittings, not on the copper side, which is actually why his copper soldered like it did and wasn't sticking; also, Sharkbites are lousy, would end up ripping open the wall after a couple years, I would only recommend for situations where there's not many options.
Thanks! To pressure test the spout, a friend had a pressure test stopper, though a shark bite type stopper would work too, to skip soldering on a copper stopper temporarily. For testing the shower head, I used an old shower spout with a 1/2" threaded valve on it. That setup had 8-12 sweat connections, and I was happy it ended up straight and tight the first time. This time, like your video I'll be switching over to pex somewhere.
One tip from my experience, some types of flux expire, and no longer work over time, so if you have some flux from years ago, throw it out and buy some fresh stuff.
Yes sir I've had that happen which to me was a surprise after being in the business 30 plus years it was the first time I had flux go bad since copper is being phased out I've not been doing much copper but back in the day I ran what must have been miles and miles of copper piping my hands were green sometimes when I didn't wear gloves anyway great video
One time, I bought the white flux Jeff was using, NEW. I did everything correct, but the joints would not take the solder. I then bought the kind that I always used, the kind that looks like grease. Then I had no problem. I then made "test soldered joints" just to see. The white flux failed every time, the grease kind worked every time.
That really is it. You can do different trades, it is awesome. I only do plumbing. You only missed one thing. Reaming the copper pipe after cutting. Not the end of the world but it is a must. Great informative video! 👍
"That's what it said on the box," I liked that part. You remind me of Bob Ross as he demonstrated painting "Happy little trees," calm, not stressed or trying to hard, just knows what he's doing and pleasant to learn from..
Have you heard of our lord and savior, Jeff Thorman? Thank you, Jeff, for putting these videos together. I am learning so much. Getting ready to take our tub and tile out in a few weeks and these will help me save a ton of money!
I teach my 1st yr apprentice class how to solder, braze,, lead and okum with a running rope you can teach techniques and do it clean and correctly. Information was clear i just never expected to see an improper display of the solder running.
Great Stuff J.T.!! Your Presentation Is Excellent!! I Have Been Interested In ALL Things Related To Building/Renovation/Et-Al; 'Forever'!! Finally, This Year(Late), I'll Be Able, To Begin Satisfying My 'Addiction', Even To The Point Of Earning A Living At Them, And, Even As I Realize, It Is Possible, To Learn From 'Most Anyone, At Least A Little-Bit(And I TRY To), I Also Realize, That There Are Some Instructors, That Just Explains Things In A Way, 'Suits' The Learner. So Far In My Learning-Curve, For Me, It's You & Mike Holmes. MANY Thanks!! Best-To-You-Brother!!
So helpful....I am getting prepared to gut out small bathroom and renovate which will include this part. I didn't see what part on the faucet your turned to open the cold water line but will look on mine. Also, some other RUclipsrs suggest checking every pex crimp with the go/nogo tool, but you don't. Why is that?
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I've been plumbing for the past 60 years and it's nice to see someone like you to take the time to show others how to do their own work. I would like to add though that it would also be helpful if you mentioned the importance of well fluxed joints in addition to the importance of the cleaning because it requires both to ensure a leak free job. In addition, to be sure that you have no leaks when soldering any fitting, you should always put flux on both the fitting, and on the pipe. One leak in the basement of a two story home after you turn on the water is not worth the extra work you'll have to go through after you've filled the entire system with water and have to wait for it to drain in order to fix the leak. Finally, while a solder joint with lead drippings all around the pipe might work fine, it sure looks a whole lot better if the joint is wiped with a piece of steel wool or a rag after the joint is full, and says a lot about someones work ethic. The best part is, it only takes a second to clean it. Keep up the good work.
Sharkbites in my opinion are great for quick fixes in areas you can see, but I would never put them in a wall their are many things that come with putting a sharkbite on, many put them on wrong for example your not supposed to sand the copper ( don’t believe me it’s on their website) and they just aren’t as secure again in my opinion over press, crimp, solder, etc.
@@LK-vb2pl are you giving the 60 year plumber crap and in the same sentence saying shark bites are good for permanent joints? LOL
You clearly don't know what you are talking about, I hope your not a licensed plumber and instead just some "ill do it cheap" handy man doing some tacky work with this "knowledge" you have.
Im a licensed master plumber. This video is garbage. How do you as a real plumber respect his plumbing videos?🤦🏼♂️
Don't see you reaming the insides of the copper pipes.
I am a retired plumbing contractor and all I can say is thanks to RUclips and the invention of Pex many plumbers are out of business. Pex is a cheap material to install water supply to fixtures. It also may cause pressure imbalances which can lead to scalding. I never used the stuff and ALWAYS used copper for my water supply lines. Pex has a smaller ID which can cause these imbalances.
I agree it has changed the industry but things change it's just the way it goes it's always been that way from the first model t to come off the assembly line now to address the other if you have 50 psi in a 1/2 inch pipe or a 10 inch pipe it's still 50 psi all we've changed is the volume and today's single handle valves being pressure balancing and all I don't see it making any noticeable difference I've also been In the business a very long time and run miles and miles of copper do i like pex not so much from a standpoint of doing a nice neat job but does it perform as they say it does that I have to agree on and cpvc as well I've never seen it fail over time such as copper does under a slab perhaps or somewhere in a very bad place to repair in fla we don't have basements and everything is run under the slab with no soldered joints all soft copper and it fails very often whereas the other products as cheap and flimsy as they are have a better reputation for not failing it can even touch concrete and not have any adverse effect on it accept rubbing no electrolysis or other such. Things that can happen to copper I don't like it any more than you do but you have to admit it has its place no ?
I'm an HVAC tech, i am constantly doing torch work. A simple piece of small sheet metal will protect that wood that can ignite very easily, especially older pine. otherwise, great video. thanks for taking the time to make it.
That's right, Rob! Even better, solder together first away from wood locations. Once you have the roughing in place with a dry fit, solder together your build, then cool it off to touch with a handy bucket of water and a rag. It only takes a couple of seconds!
Not keeping a healthy habit of whipping water clean, all your soldering at the joint promotes acid-like copper turning early. The elbow ears land too close to the corner, and not at the center (the meat) of the wood framing.
Short cuts are not for me! Once you break out and start the torching, why not finish it uniformly with copper? APEX is a degrade at this point!
I am headed to a friend's house tomorrow morning, to replace his shower valve. The plumbing is currently copper and we are converting to PEX. Thank you for this video!
I don't know if this will help anyone but I use a small piece of Scotch tape on the crimp ring when I'm lining it up. Just tape it to the pipe where you want it right before you crimp it and it won't go anywhere. There's totally room for a little error with these crimp rings but I personally like to be sure it's right the first time. Saves a lot of frustration on vertical lines, too. :)
I take my channelocks and give the ring a little squeeze and it stays put takes 2 seconds
Hold the ring with the pilers in place an crimp.
I also use a tampon when I’m plugging my vagina
@@coltonknowles1314 and to avoid making grooves with the channel locks, use the soft handle part to squeeze the ring.
First off - I absolutely love your videos and find them very useful. So don't take this as being critical. Just my personal take on how I'd approach this, but I always try to absolutely minimize the amount of flame soldering I have to do near the framing. So I personally would have sweated your tub-spout piece onto the control manifold on a bench, or table, held in a vise. Much safer and more comfortable. None of that flame-work needed to be done up against the framing. And for the sweat->pex adapters on the two feeds,, where you have to do it within the framing, just for safety, I always use a spray bottle with water to wet the wood around the area where I'm using my torch. Especially within old, existing framing that may have wood that has been dried out for decades and catches fire like a paper. Takes 10 seconds to spray things down and make things way safer.
Basically, once I get the copper->pex adapters in place, I don't usually see any reason to use a flame near wood again.
Code requires a Shut-Off or Stopcock at every hot or cold line at lavatory & kitchen sinks, toilets and laundry, but they are not required at the tub and shower. Whenever possible, I always add ball valve stopcocks at the tub & shower if at all possible, with an access panel through the wall of the adjacent room. Nice to be able to turn the water off at the tub & shower, without shutting down the entire house if you have to change a valve cartridge, if the valve does not have integrated shut-offs. The stopcocks also serve as caps during the installation. Once the tile or surround goes in, this area can be very difficult to address any future issues.
Buy the mixing valves that hotels use with cutoffs behind cover-is an avenue.
@@SovereignTroll Yes, I mentioned valves with integrated shut-offs and I'm pleased to see that they are becoming more common from a number of manufacturers.
I'm hesitant to say anything since I don't want to jinx it, but I actually cut off the copper pipes and soldered the fittings and attached pex pipes. I have a lot more to do, but just getting that done was huge. I never would have attempted this before I watched this video. I flooded the bathroom (and two rooms below it)a couple weeks ago and I had a leak for a while and had to dump out water several times a day. I managed to finally get it stopped but was unsure what to do. The lowest estimate I got for replacing the faucets was 1000 and part of the reason I' m doing the work myself is to save money. I really believe I can do this now. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Cheers Isabel. You got this!
I always enjoy Mr. Thorman's videos. They're very instructive. In this copper to PEX video, he seems to gloss over the application of flux prior to soldering. Putting flux on both pieces to be joined is imperative. It's a point that needs to be driven home for DIY folks. Also, I've always used aluminum foil or sheet metal to cover any nearby framing to protect it from the torch. You'll notice the studs glowing red during the torching. That makes me a little nervous, especially when instructing inexperienced people.
i'm 68 years old and learned soldering from my father who learned from his father who was a "pipefitter" by trade. my dad taught me to always "tin" every solder joint first before the final soldering. for those who don't know what solder "tinning" is - you basically heat up each joint and apply a coat of solder around the entire joint. you do this on EVERY pipe end and coupling. then when you go to solder each component together, you heat up the pipe and/or adapter/coupling and because both pieces have solder already on them, there is no chance of missing a spot which could create a leak. Tinning is an additional step in soldering but i believe it is a common practice with all "old" plumbers.
Jeff, you are an outstanding instructor. Your delivery inspires confidence and your teaching technique is clear and visually effective. Thank you for teaching us amateur handypeople.
You always need to ream your copper pipe.
Hes an idiot, he did sloppy work and skipped to many steps.
Thank you for a great video - very nice job! I'm not a professional plumber but learned as a teen next to a WWII greatest generation grandfather who was. May I suggest a few small additions? First, wear leather gloves and eye protection in case a beginner sweeps their hand/face with torch flame, drops the torch, or touches the pipe while being heated. Second, after cutting the copper pipe with the pipe cutter, de-burr the cut end of the pipe on the inside and outside. You made a nice clean cut using slow quarter inch increasing pressure turns, but a beginner may end up with burs. Having a sopping wet rag nearby allows you to wipe the excess solder off the joint and cool it down faster. It you are sweating together pipe and a fitting not connected to the house yet, hold the pieces with vise-grip pliers that can handle the flame/heat and drop the joined pipe and fitting into a bucket of water to immediately quench the soldered joint and cool everything off. Always have a fire extinguisher nearby in case the torch ignites old sawdust or (it happens), the plumber's clothing/hair! Last, show the viewer the pipe dope you applied and apply the acid paste to BOTH the pipe and the inside of the fitting to make sure no missed spots. Just a few things I learned from a wonderful, hard working man who took the time to teach me when I was young.
Thank you. This is such a good video for those of us who know nothing about plumbing. During Uri a plumber asked $400 to cut my copper line to an exterior faucet and cap it so we could turn our water back on for the house until he could return months later and gauge me again. I'll never forget those days without water. Or what he charged me to do what I could've done myself if I had a clue. Live and learn. Currently, still working on that same plumbing job after the 4th plumber came and did another halfa-- job. Uri was in 1921. All I want is a good, honest plumber. That might be me at this rate.
You have become my go-to guy for renovations. not only are your explanations very easy to understand but your sense of humor adds to the quality of your tutorials. thanks.
I am an ex city trader who has ventured into holiday lets and property flips in the UK. However - on the next one *budget in speculative area* i have decided to do as much as i can myself. I have marathoned these videos and the way you demonstrate and explain has filled me with great confidence. Great channel and thanks for breaking everything down for us unskilled.
The most complete, comprehensive, articulate, well lighted, well videographer, well explained guide on almost ANYTHING I've ever Googled. Simply amazing. Thank you so much. I'm guessing you have to be careful what product you recommend; however, I'm in a 2013 Athens Mt Pine mobile home (fitted throughout with Pex) and need to replace the shower-only valve (no tub), meaning I've got quite a project ahead. I have 2 questions if you have time: 1) What TOP LINE replacement might you recommend and 2) Do I have to replace the shower faucet as well or can I just use the same existing one (for now I don't care if the shower head and faucet don't match!). Ever so grateful for this video. It is so thorough, so complete, no questions as to removal/replacement.
Your son does a good job with the camera. If he's as smart as I think he is, he'll learn as much about home maintenance and such from you as he can. I worked alongside my Dad when I was a kid. As an adult, I've almost never had to pay anyone else to repair anything I own. It's a huge financial advantage.
People were giving you different opinion, because they got nothing better to do or to concerns themselves with. I am a big fan of yours and have learned a lot from your videos. Thank you so much
In school I learned to finalize the solder joint with a rag. I’m not keen on using the flux brush as it may cool the joint too quickly. I would also use a heat shield behind that valve while torching.
Jeff I am sure someone has already told you this but just in case. Tip, sand the pipe before you cut it, it's easier the pipe does not move! Love your show even as a master plumber, electrician and HVAC mechanic I don't know much about remodel work as I am on the service side only, no remodel or new construction work yet! Also I would suggest soldering the copper on the shower valve prior to mounting it to the support. This will avoid burning the board or the homeowner not just dripping flux on the tub which will wipe off, however when they use excess solder and that hot solder drops on the tub that's another situation.
Excellent instructional. I always refer to this video with my customers when they have diy copper to pex questions. As far as the plug in the drop ear where the shower arm goes, Home Depot sells 1/2 in male shower test plugs for $3 a pop.
ⁿ⁰
Love your videos!! Thank you so much!! It took days to get my courage up to try soldering copper pipes today I converted to pex requiring 3 solders and first time crimper lol, success!! It is a start now that I have gained some confidence will design the system with drains etc for winterization....you're an amazing teacher especially for video's as you have mastered the right amount of chat to keep it interesting and personable - like we are hanging out lol, also appreciate your information on how it works and why things are done a certain way. Much Appreciation!!
If you can learn to make a solder joint you have limitless opportunities to renovate your shower. DIY and make money and enjoy your shower. Cheers!
You Rock Man!!!
Shows a real knowledgeable, confident and competent plumber. I wish I had the pleasure of knowing one like him.
I have to say This Man is the Ultimate Translator. For All those who Disliked this Video. Get a Life. Thank You Jeff for Step by Step Break Down of Everything. From Every DYI'er Out there, You were Our Personal Instructor. Blessings and Remember Haters are Probably Your Biggest Fans 😁😁😁😂😂😂 Good Work I am Definitely Subscribing
Cheers James!
Wish I had seen this video before I ordered pex B to plumb my tiny house. I’ll be using Shark Bite knockoff connectors for the push to connect features. If I had it to do over again, I would’ve bought the crimp tool and connected that way. The expansion ring tool was out of my range and I didn’t want to do the manual expansion tool because I’m 68 and not very nimble once I’m on the floor. Thanks for this video. One very good tip I did take away is the correct technique for cutting PEX tubing.
For anyone who wants to install PEX, try to use Uponor-type fittings where you EXPAND the PEX pipe over the fitting instead of crimping the PEX pipe over the fitting because the 'expanded-PEX' type fittings have a much larger opening in them, so you get a faster flow of water when the job is finished. Avoid SharkBite fittings in closed walls. But if the pipe is going to a toilet or a sink then it doesn't matter there since the final pipe is going to be a really small 3/8" riser tube anyways, so a crimped-type of fitting on 1/2" PEX pipe is totally okay in those areas.
Alot more of an expensive pex system the fittings an pipe cost more an the tool to expand the pex isnt cheap
@@shawngiguere3025 'and' not 'an'.
Sounds like 2year old bro. And I know you're not 2!
That is for pex-a and the tool is more expensive than a crimper
I agree Pex A avoids necking down at the fitting as much as Pex B. The hand tool to expand on Amazon with an automatic head rotation was about $160. It came with 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1" expanders and a cutter and a tool to cut off a Pex plastic ring if you make a mistake. I paid just over $4 for 25 Pex A plastic expansion rings. Pex A 1/2" pipe is currently $35 for 100 feet.
I also thought pex A with expansion fittings was a superior product when first learning about pex. My mind has changed since learning that pex A leaches significant chemicals and is no longer recommended for potable water systems. That bit of info explained why I have only ever seen Pex B with crimp fitting used in residential houses.
Jeff! I cannot thank you enough for all of the help that you have provided through your videos. Kudos to you for taking the time to help others be successful, rather than criticizing home owners for trying to do things on their own. I am very grateful! My question for you: In this video, you mentioned that some manufacturers thread some of the holes to attach the valve to the wall blocking. On my valve, all four holes are threaded but no machined screws were included in the kit. Do I need to try and find the right threaded machined screws or can I simply attach via nail, or slightly smaller screw? Thank you!
I wished I had a Dad like you to work with when I grew up. Thank you for a great video!
Your Show is amazing and helpful this week I called plumber for 25minutes put shower mixture from copper to PX charged150.00 CAD and 60.00 CAD for 5feet PX 1/2inches and 4 elbow joint. You taught me lot.
Shawn from CAN
nice job sir, from one heavy breather to another...
Thanks for speaking 'english' and your clarity of instructions for the DIYer. Really enjoyed your instructions, even after doing much of my own DIY projects.
So nice to see someone who understands soldering so many people/videos use the torch to melt the solder. If the workpiece it's self is not hot enough to melt the solder it will not form the necessary amalgam. This is also true of electrical soldering apply the solder to the workpiece not the iron or torch. Nice video.
Thanks, I try to show good methods. Cheers!
agreed; I hadn't appreciated that point until I watched this. makes sense.
One of my first jobs after getting out of the Marine Corps was at a machine shop soldering carbide tool tips to steel mounting pieces. You are SO right! If you try to force the solder in by melting it instead of the workpiece, you don't get good adhesion and your piece will fall apart under pressure.
First off, I suspect the down comments are by profession plumbers who hate that you show how easy it is for the home handy person to do. At what height did you set the top drop earned connector for the shower spout? I am getting ready to install my pex. I will be switching to a copper pipe for the tub stub out as well. I was not sure when I purchased my stuff. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos.
You are a really good teacher. Your video is perfect!!! The filming, the comments, the work, everything. You were born to do this!!! Thanks a million!!!
Cheers Richard, we appreciate that!
You are top notch. Pls ignore all the thumb downs, I'm sure you take constructive constructive criticism and make note of it. So many fools don't take time out to make anything but are quick to criticize other people's work.
Yep, this is best that I've ever seen. I'm a home flipper and always have to do a bathroom update/remodel. Good at tiling but this video changes the game for me. I've watched it multiple times and have did the Pex upgrade 6 times. Thanks for saving me the money!
If this guy is the best you've seen then u havent seen much.
Lost me at home flipper lol
going to be replacing the shower valve and shower surround at the cottage this September. This video is very helpful and gives me the confidence to do this on my own, especially since there isn't a plumber close or willing to take a half hour boat ride to the cottage.
To watch all the videos in this project click this link. ruclips.net/video/ziYQaxYQv94/видео.html And remember with playlists you can scroll through the videos using the arrows in the bottom left corner.
Home RenoVision DIY pex sucks👎copper is your friend 👍
Have you ever tried the piece of bread trick for holding water back before soldering, it works, white not wheat.
Thank you sr u are the best
Jeff, love the show(s). Have you tried to use Uponor piping? aka. Pex-a. The tool is a bit expensive but making connections in tight spaces is a lot easier. Personally, I think it is even faster than using the crimp style piping.
Home RenoVision DIY maybe you can help me with something, a few months ago I put a single lever of those moen but it turns out that when I turn it on, water comes out from below and also a little above, maybe I put it wrong because it is the first time with that work you could tell me that I did wrong please?
Thank You for a straight forward video! Things have changed considerably since I replaced the plumbing in our house trailer! Went from the gray plastic >:( to white pex. I used the quest and flair-it fittings, they worked well, simple to install. Now almost impossible to find for the 12x24 mini-home I'm finishing out. Looks like more tools and new pex to buy. Oh"Yeah! thanks for the soldering tip, you just explained why MY sauter runs out of my joint, and leaks. I've been heating at the seam! This why pex & swage rings were made..... for people who cannot sauter!!!! heh-heh-heh
I love the "workman's bandaid" ! :)
Okay. Now that I’ve removed all in one tub shower surround unit I see that I cannot just put concrete boards and seal. Darn it! The copper pipes are in the way! So I guess this in when I change over to plex tubing to simplify the process of replacing all in one t/s surround with a tube and tiled walls. My dear husband will assist with crimping. Yours truly, 64 year old female DIYer. Thanks Sir Thorman for all that you share🤗🤓
Great videos. I'm doing by my bathroom currently. I'm wondering why copper on tub line and PEX on two feed and shower not all PEX like in your other video explaining same thing.
Hey Joe you can't use PEX on the spout because it will not allow all the diverter inside your spout to work properly the inside of PEX pipe it's just slightly different than the inside of copper
@@Jlambert1213 my guess was that the spout needs to be attached to something solid, the copper is a lot more rigid than the pex. You dont want the tub spout connected to a flimsy piece of PEX.
you have two options to attach the tub spout... a long nipple (pipe thread) or 1/2" copper pipe. the other end needs to be anchored and pex does not have the strength. The brass elbow that is attached to the wood is made more rigid by the copper from the valve.
THE TUB SPOUT HAS TO BE RIGID, OR THE SHOWERHEAD WILL DRIP, I LEARNED THE HARD WAY AND HAD TO TAKE THE PEX OFF AND REPLACE IT😣😤😤😤😡😠😡😠
PEX won't flow as well as copper. Sometimes the shower will still spray water even with the diverter in the open position. If you read the instructions that come with most faucets, you'll see that the manufacturers specifically recommend using copper or steel only for the spout connection.
Thanks!
Man I love this dude his videos are saving me thousands already.
TXEN EMIT if we all give just 5% of what we save by watching all these DYI RUclips videos, these guys could make a small fortune and keep giving is money saving tips.
And remember Black Rifles Matter!
His advice on using pex is also destroying your health.
@@truthseekerKJV what are you referring to?
Good job I appreciate it
Good video, and you explain things well. I'm an old fossil. If I were able to do the work I'd still use copper, but that's just me. I always had plenty of supplies and could sweat just about anything.
I wish you had wiped the joints while the soldier was hot. Always kept a clean damp rag handy. Wiped joints are easier to feel leaks in a blind spot. Also the sign a pro did the job.
Not wanting to scan through 1,700+ comments thus far - is there a reason why you do not ream the insides of the copper pipe portion prior to soldering or pex connection? I was told that reaming prevents noise (from inside water turbulence) and also avoid possible pin hole leaking over time. True? Great video Jeff - you’re my go-to channel for all things Reno:). Jim
The reason why is because this dude is a handyman and not actually a plumber so he thinks he knows what he’s doing but really just causing issues for the customer in the future if you noticed when he capped off the pex line on the left he didn’t get the whole crimp this is bad I know he didn’t leave the cap in there permanently but what if he was to leave it that would cause issues in the future never use a handyman for plumbing or as a career plumber myself I’ve had to fix many issues caused by handymen get someone licensed to do the job right.
@@Apple-es8zr that crimp on the hot side (permanent one) 90 was half crimped. i feel bad for the homeowner when they are informed the wall needs to be opened to make a repair that takes 3 minutes.
@@stevenf3149 this is why I mentioned always get a real and licensed plumber to get the job done handyman no matter how good they want to be just aren’t it.
Just to add a lil more info.
Make sure to ream and clean deburr every time you make a new cut on copper or any other pipes.it help the flow of water and prevent a future leak in the joint coused by turbulence in the water.👍👍good video
The DYI folks depend on quality videos like this - great work - you inspire confidence for the guy wanting to do his own work - keep up the great work! Cheers!
I’m an actual plumber. All I’m gonna say is thanks People like you keep me busy. It’s always more expensive to come re do something than if they’d just called me the first time. Do you do your own dental work too? Tell ya what. You do your job. Make money. Call experienced people to do their job Especially with plumbing or electrical. Unless of course you like water damage and fires
With what plumbers charge these days, it's no wonder people take on these projects themselves. Local plumber wanted $2500 to install tub. I said no thanks, and did it myself and it's been just fine. That said, there is a point where the level of skill required exceeds my abilities. But small stuff like this anyone can and should learn.
Home RenoVision DIY
Greetings from Denmark . Your (sandpaper) is called Emery Cloth .
Thank you and Cheers to Denmark!
Tela esmeril ( in Argentina)
You are a Godsend for showing us how this works. Thank you. Very nice and clear.
Incredible video! I never thought I'd feel confident doing this level of plumbing work, but your video changed my mind!
This is, hands down, THE best DIY pex teaching video I've seen yet! Thank you!!
I got to meet this guy, Going to put it on my bucket list.
I learned how to solder many moons ago...but that info on the solder following the heat is new to me...THANK YOU!!!
I like the ease in which you speak, just the facts, not a lot of over talking, to the point, clear concise. I learn from you. So thankful for your videos. Me and a friend gonna attempt to do a whole house plumbing replacement... gonna need to watch some more videos. 🤓
Your great. Very good teacher, not all the blabbing that most youtubers add to the videos, direct and to the point - Excellent!
The best videos I ever seen for this subject. I learned a lot. Thanks bro.
I second that !!!!
You are wonderful gentleman , very helpful, you give good guidance on how to proceed on doing the work and it helps in taking precautions for the DIY people who are novice. Your instructions are clean and clear and easily understandable. This is Anthony de Souza from Goa, India.
At last someone with an easy talking but definite instruction I’ll look you up again .Stay simple
I had a plumber install a water heater hybrid style. He used this system to run lines from old site in laundry room to new site in the garage. Saves time and money.
Great video like always Jeff. Much appreciate you taking the time to explain in detail and love your energy and the way you work. Wondering if it's possible to add the names of list of items you used to finish this job. I take notes as I watch along to buy/rent the list of tools. Would be awesome if each video has a list of all tools used in it's own section in it's description
Thanks for demystifying solder joints - I wouldn't have dared try it for fear of not filling the joint proper. Now I understand how it works.
Why do you still use copper for the faucet? Just rigidity? I asked my plumber to switch out the copper in my 1892 rowhouse for pex when he was installing my soaker tub (had to move the plumbing up), but he left copper between the shower head and faucet. (I figured that I'd never have to worry about a pinhole leak from corrosion in my old age if I upgraded as I do renos.)
How come you did not clean the soldered joints with a wet rag after you soldered but before it cooled, to take the excess flux off the copper so it does not corrode the copper over time?
a little green stuff won't hurt long term.
This guy's an idiot
The blue test tool you used is available in yellow at home depot in the PEX fitting section.
jeff, I've learned a bunch from you sir. You've been a great help. I even watch some videos on things i'm not even currently doing because I just love your teaching style. great energy.
This is a very good video for homeowners and even plumber's apprentice has on how to install this well done
Hey Jeff...Try crimping the whole ring. My OCD is over the top now.
I know I was screaming at the screen in my head lol
I love and learn so much from your instructional videos. Why are you not using red and blue pex? Also why did you use copper on the tub line? Thank you for all your postings.
Question... why did you use copper for the down line to the tub spout instead of pex?
Also, amazing video! Thanks
After some research, I found this answer...
"The tub spout can be copper, brass, or galvanized pipe. You cannot use pex because the pipe coming out of the valve needs to be able to support the weight of the tub spout and handle the abuse of pulling/ pushing down of the divirter built into the spout."
Reference:
www.plumbingforums.com/threads/why-copper-required-for-valve-to-tub-spout.7076/post-63194
@@BLUEmistRAY .... Don't know if this is true ,,, but from another PEX video ,,, copper used on the tub spout was because the Inside Diameter of PEX is not 1/2" ,, and having both Hot and Cold water on would put too much pressure on the spout and cause the water to backup in the system .
I'll post a link to the video .
He talks about it in the video ,,,, along with the crimping of PEX fittings .
I always wondered ,,,, would it also be true for the shower ,, kitchen ,, and bathroom systems ? ( Because ,, most of those are using a 2 to 1 ,, Hot and Cold to one outlet ,, system ,,, ??? ) .
ruclips.net/video/92x9z6uQbV4/видео.html .
Link to the video about using copper
tub spout .
( It's at the 9:35 mark )
@@KZ3W
Ah interesting... thanks
He had logical reasoning so I'm going to assume it's true.
Now I wondering though... what if 3/4" pex was used, then would it be OK?
Thanks Jeff. Slowed down and watched 3 videos.
Confident now.
That was an excellent how to video! Thanks for posting this it made a lot of sense on how to go from copper to pex. 👍🏼
Indeed. Pex doesn't bang around and it doesn't burst if a line happens to freeze.
Appreciate your videos. I'm an RV park manager, and your channel is really helping me out.
Where can I get the shower valve from? What is the brand you used in the video?
You only need a turn and a half with sand cloth. All you need is to make a spiral like a gun barrel and by not de burring the inside of the copper you risk having that waterfall found or whistle. Keep up the clean work . Been plumbing 45 years
every video is amazing. thank you Jeff
Thank you Jack. Cheers!
Renovating a tub / shower to a walk-in shower and this was very helpful in understanding what I'll need to do, minus the tub spout of course. Thanks!
Do you ever need to put a heat shield behind what you're aiming the torch at, or is that one of those things where if you think you need it you're doing it wrong in the first place?
heat shields are for protecting flammable things, i prefer to have a spray bottle near by.
I know a plumber that burned down a apartment building, he was changing a shower valve and some embers went up inside the wall into the attic and started the fire.
Yes, he just a contractor
@@nomanjones4803 Ex plumber now?
Thank you . For taking the time to make these videos ,on how to replace or install things . I really like the way you talk us through everything. Keep up the good work and thank you again for time God bless
Glad to help, Cheers!
Your awesome.. your my kind of inspiration doing my diy home renovation.
Happy to help. Best of success. Cheers!
Awesome video, I've hated sweating pipe but your pointers are great! Love how that Pex comes together, very cool. Thank you!
Good video I thought Flux was always used during soldering though. Also an option would have been to use a sharkbite adapter for the copper to pex conversion.
He uses flux, however only on the fittings, not on the copper side, which is actually why his copper soldered like it did and wasn't sticking; also, Sharkbites are lousy, would end up ripping open the wall after a couple years, I would only recommend for situations where there's not many options.
Excellent how to vid. Jeff gives me confidence to do this. And i hate dealing with anything water related.
Excellent job very very professional👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks! To pressure test the spout, a friend had a pressure test stopper, though a shark bite type stopper would work too, to skip soldering on a copper stopper temporarily. For testing the shower head, I used an old shower spout with a 1/2" threaded valve on it. That setup had 8-12 sweat connections, and I was happy it ended up straight and tight the first time. This time, like your video I'll be switching over to pex somewhere.
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One tip from my experience, some types of flux expire, and no longer work over time, so if you have some flux from years ago, throw it out and buy some fresh stuff.
Yes sir I've had that happen which to me was a surprise after being in the business 30 plus years it was the first time I had flux go bad since copper is being phased out I've not been doing much copper but back in the day I ran what must have been miles and miles of copper piping my hands were green sometimes when I didn't wear gloves anyway great video
One time, I bought the white flux Jeff was using, NEW. I did everything correct, but the joints would not take the solder. I then bought the kind that I always used, the kind that looks like grease. Then I had no problem. I then made "test soldered joints" just to see. The white flux failed every time, the grease kind worked every time.
That really is it. You can do different trades, it is awesome. I only do plumbing. You only missed one thing. Reaming the copper pipe after cutting. Not the end of the world but it is a must. Great informative video! 👍
"That's what it said on the box," I liked that part. You remind me of Bob Ross as he demonstrated painting "Happy little trees," calm, not stressed or trying to hard, just knows what he's doing and pleasant to learn from..
Have you heard of our lord and savior, Jeff Thorman?
Thank you, Jeff, for putting these videos together. I am learning so much. Getting ready to take our tub and tile out in a few weeks and these will help me save a ton of money!
Happy to help Joe!
This was extremely helpful. Now I need to see how you would run lines to a vanity faucet
Keith Reynolds John guest tubing
Thank you you have been a great source of professional wisdom to this hack that can't afford a professional.
Thank you very much for your teaching now I’m sure I can do that
I teach my 1st yr apprentice class how to solder, braze,, lead and okum with a running rope you can teach techniques and do it clean and correctly. Information was clear i just never expected to see an improper display of the solder running.
Very few tradesman can teach. You sir are the exception.
Great Stuff J.T.!! Your Presentation Is Excellent!! I Have Been Interested In ALL Things Related To Building/Renovation/Et-Al; 'Forever'!! Finally, This Year(Late), I'll Be Able, To Begin Satisfying My 'Addiction', Even To The Point Of Earning A Living At Them, And, Even As I Realize, It Is Possible, To Learn From 'Most Anyone, At Least A Little-Bit(And I TRY To), I Also Realize, That There Are Some Instructors, That Just Explains Things In A Way, 'Suits' The Learner. So Far In My Learning-Curve, For Me, It's You & Mike Holmes. MANY Thanks!!
Best-To-You-Brother!!
Could learn when to use capital letters? Weird
WoW! A lot of info. packed into 30 mins. Amazing! BTW, can I ask about the model of Dewalt cordless drill your using ? Thanks for posting this.
It looks to be a Dewalt 20v Impact Driver
So helpful....I am getting prepared to gut out small bathroom and renovate which will include this part. I didn't see what part on the faucet your turned to open the cold water line but will look on mine. Also, some other RUclipsrs suggest checking every pex crimp with the go/nogo tool, but you don't. Why is that?
Great video. Thanks Jeff. Comprehensive and clear detailed training. Excellent job!😉
Cheers!