Great Video. However at 11:50 when you start stacking the first steel, it would appear there is a different steel in the diagram(at least for a 2010 690 OEM parts). The very first steel is labeled (STEEL DISK 1,5MM NITRIDED- part #75032112100) vs all the other steels are labeled (STEEL DISK 1,5 MM LC4 ´07 | 07- part #75032112000). Not sure what the difference is, but the diagram shows it, so might take note.
Great video! Thank you! When taking the clutch apart, you unbent a washer. When you were assembling, I didn't see you bend it back to lock the nut in place. Did I miss it?
So the new washer that you used before locking down the clutch pack doesn’t need to be bent over locking the nut in place like the one that you removed during disassembly? If not then could you explain the difference between the two washers? Thanks
Very easy and straight forward replacement. Just remember to precisely measure each and every old fiction plate before throwing them in the bin.😆 Jk. Looks to be an easy job for the home mechanic.👍
Witam czyli te przekładki metalowe patrząc na założone sprzęgło powinny być zamontowane zaokrągloną częścią na zewnątrz silnika a ostrą krawędzią skierowane do silnika?
Great video! It seems my 2012 KTM 690 has the bend over lock washer on the main nut. When buying a new one it seems from 2017 onwards this changed to a flat non bend washer. The part number is the same. Is it replaced with this non bend washer and do I fit it instead?
I have changed all the discs and I did the process as you did and all the changes fit perfectly and the changes do not slip but the quick shifter does not work, does anyone know what it could be?
Hello, The original clutch slave gave me problems on my bike (ktm 690 SMR), it was jamming when hot. I have replaced it with an Oberon CLU-1201 (1 april 2021). I have bled the system and I used new minaral oil like KTM suggests. The clutch works fine, but weirdly enough the clutch fluid level keeps rising, until it overflows out of the resevoir. My bike didn't do that with the old slave cylinder. It has happend two times now and I have ridden about 1000 (600 miles) kilometers with the new slave cylinder. Another extra bled didn't solve the issue. Is it impossible that the new clutch slave cylinder is faulty? Or is something else going on? Thanks in advance.
is there a reason why you guys removed the whole clutch basket to replace the plates? Could the plte swap be done without removing the basket like most bikes
It's not like most bikes. It's typically easier and faster to remove the nut anyway, and since you're right there, it's a good idea to take one extra minute and inspect the basket. -Charles
Nice video. I need to replace the inner clutch hub. I'm a bit worried, because on the internet people talk about how hard it's to undo the 30mm nut without the impact gun. Your video makes it easy. So any advice on that ?
We've had 690's and 701's with over 20k miles and no issues, then others with only 5k miles that were abused and burned up. A lot of it just depends on the rider and how it's ridden. -Charles
Really clear and concise presentation. Many thanks!!
Great Video. However at 11:50 when you start stacking the first steel, it would appear there is a different steel in the diagram(at least for a 2010 690 OEM parts). The very first steel is labeled (STEEL DISK 1,5MM NITRIDED- part #75032112100) vs all the other steels are labeled (STEEL DISK 1,5 MM LC4 ´07 | 07- part #75032112000). Not sure what the difference is, but the diagram shows it, so might take note.
Best install video on the internet super precise on every procedure. 👌
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank you! When taking the clutch apart, you unbent a washer. When you were assembling, I didn't see you bend it back to lock the nut in place. Did I miss it?
Good call man. Was wondering same thing
Noticed that too
I think u can choose, either u use locktide or you can use the bend washer not sure but i think so
Excellent video, Charles. Very helpful. Thank you.
So the new washer that you used before locking down the clutch pack doesn’t need to be bent over locking the nut in place like the one that you removed during disassembly? If not then could you explain the difference between the two washers? Thanks
He used a plain washer, and instead of the locking washer, he used Loctite on the nut.
That is such a great video! you make it look so easy!
Awesome tutorial thank you !
Excellent video! Thank you!
Very easy and straight forward replacement.
Just remember to precisely measure each and every old fiction plate before throwing them in the bin.😆
Jk.
Looks to be an easy job for the home mechanic.👍
Witam czyli te przekładki metalowe patrząc na założone sprzęgło powinny być zamontowane zaokrągloną częścią na zewnątrz silnika a ostrą krawędzią skierowane do silnika?
What a great explained video 👍🏼 thx for :))
Great video! It seems my 2012 KTM 690 has the bend over lock washer on the main nut. When buying a new one it seems from 2017 onwards this changed to a flat non bend washer. The part number is the same. Is it replaced with this non bend washer and do I fit it instead?
Yes, they made a running change with the lock washer. You should be fine with ordering and installing the new part number. - Wes
Thanks for confirming! Again thanks for all your great videos. They're always very helpful.
Thanks for the tutorial.
I have changed all the discs and I did the process as you did and all the changes fit perfectly and the changes do not slip but the quick shifter does not work, does anyone know what it could be?
going to try this next week
Hello,
The original clutch slave gave me problems on my bike (ktm 690 SMR), it was jamming when hot. I have replaced it with an Oberon CLU-1201 (1 april 2021). I have bled the system and I used new minaral oil like KTM suggests.
The clutch works fine, but weirdly enough the clutch fluid level keeps rising, until it overflows out of the resevoir. My bike didn't do that with the old slave cylinder.
It has happend two times now and I have ridden about 1000 (600 miles) kilometers with the new slave cylinder. Another extra bled didn't solve the issue.
Is it impossible that the new clutch slave cylinder is faulty? Or is something else going on?
Thanks in advance.
Is this the same process for a 2020 ktm 690 enduro r?
is there a reason why you guys removed the whole clutch basket to replace the plates? Could the plte swap be done without removing the basket like most bikes
It's not like most bikes. It's typically easier and faster to remove the nut anyway, and since you're right there, it's a good idea to take one extra minute and inspect the basket. -Charles
On the steel plates does it matter what way they go around on the smooth edge or the sharp edge.
It doesn't matter which way they face as long as they all face the same direction when installing.
Nice video. I need to replace the inner clutch hub. I'm a bit worried, because on the internet people talk about how hard it's to undo the 30mm nut without the impact gun. Your video makes it easy. So any advice on that ?
Either air gun or hub to basket holder
You can put in a piece of fabric to lock the gears
excellent
Do some tight single track and they don't last long at all... My 701 started slipping at around 8500kms.
Just happened to me at 10k. Barely limped home.
Mine started at 4400 miles.
Recluse auto clutch with quick shifter will help it last longer
Where do I get that clutch kit from husqvarna at?
Anyone know the thread measurements for the 4x special screws used to hold the hub into the basket? Need to know length, diameter, thread pitch.
Hope this schematic helps: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/40?FirstChoice=KTM&SecondChoice=99376&ThirdChoice=102432&assemblySchematic=102538
Mine is slipping when driving in 4th en giving full gas. It isn’t slippen when i’m driving full gas in 1/2. ODO is 12.000 KM is that normal?
how much miles got this bike with the old clutch ?`
We've had 690's and 701's with over 20k miles and no issues, then others with only 5k miles that were abused and burned up. A lot of it just depends on the rider and how it's ridden. -Charles
@@rmatvmc right on, I hope mine will last 20k
Update, it didn't lol, but it did last 12k miles.
Hola,yo le cambié los embragues a mi moto. Y ahora me cuesta meter el punto muerto. Debo de pulgar el embrague? Un saludo
Thank you
Does it really not matter which way the steel plates face?
Гайка на 30 если че
you left the four 5mm x 35mm bolts inside the engine!!! you used them at the 5 minute mark and then left them in! what is up with that???
You can see us remove these bolts at 15:43 in this video.
He clearly doesn't leave them in.....🙄👀
t=5:31.5 4 clutch springs