I have several of the NiceCNC bits for my SMCR, and I am very happy with the fit and finish. I have some KTM PP, some SM project too, the Nice CNC quality is good, just like the look of some of the other brands.
My concern with when I installed the case guard is unless the chain guide is EXACTLY the correct thickness you may have incorrect clamping force on the clutch slave. That billet aluminum won't be flexing. If the chain guide is too thick you don't get proper clamping force on the slave. If the guide is too thin the aluminum will be trying to bend to clamp the chain guide in place. It all depends on a factory frame welded part for things to align. For the factory case guard that frame weld does not need to hold a tight tolerance.
I don't have a concern here, because the fasteners do not bottom out, so we are able to correctly torque the screws to 7.4 ft /lbs. (10Nm) Also worth noting that this update has been reliable for over 10,000 miles of riding so far. Thanks for the comment!
@@dualsportgarage You missed the point entirely. It has nothing to do with bottoming out. The factory guard is plastic with 2 bolts. It flexes so the two bolts clamp properly. The billet is three bolts. It doesn't flex. Unless all three mating points are exactly correct in three dimensional space the rigidity of the guard will prevent something from clamping properly. In my case if I finger snug the two clutch slave bolts the plastic guard won't fit in. So if you loosen the other bolts to force it in, the billet guard is trying to keep the top clutch slave bolt from clamping. Unless the whole thing can bend enough in the middle to let the bolt clamp down. Hope that makes it easier to visualize.
Okay now I gotcha, sounds like something is not seated properly, because I found that all mating surfaces matched perfectly with the plastic guide in place when I did the install...and this case saver is effectively the same design as most other popular chain guards for the 690/701, so I don't think there is a design problem...not trying to question your work, but I'm concerned that your clutch slave may not be seated fully or perhaps the rubber seal is pinched which has happened to other riders I know...not hard to do because the mating surface has a very sharp edge... it is easy to catch and cut the rubber "donut" on the edge. (...that rubber seal is replaceable if that were to happen) Hope you get it sorted.
@@dualsportgarage The clutch slave is too low, not too high. The chain slider is too thick essentially. I have the Vanasche BTW. The likely scenario is tolerance in the frame weld point. That the guard designer can't control.
You are definitely not alone… whether to install gaskets dry is a healthy debate… Each of us has our own personal experience that informs our decisions…I have several decades of racing, only having installed dry gaskets …obviously that makes me comfortable with that approach… But I’ve also reached out to a couple of manufacturers to get their feedback on the subject as well which I will add to this thread… In the end I’m not really trying to change minds… because each of us has our own riding style which contributes significantly to how our machines perform and last…with that said I’m gonna say keep doing what works for you…as long as it’s on two wheels it’s all good.
These are Rade Garage Adventure Pegs, also listed on their site as KTM larger lower pegs. They are 10mm lower than stock. They work great. I will post the install video on these soon. Thanks!
Hi , The owners manual calls for Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 (not mineral oil). I can't say what was used from the factory. Dot 5.1 is basically a newer version of Dot 4 with the same glycol base but Dot 5.1 has a higher boiling point 260C vs 230C. Never use Dot 5 or Mineral Oil in this system these are not at all compatible. You can however add Dot 4 with Dot 5.1 as they are perfectly compatible. Hope that helps, Thanks.
Installed mine last night and replaced my engine oil today,when I let the bike idle for a few minutes oil is dripping from the bottom of the slave cylinder,would this be,a bad seal?
if you’re sure the clutch slave is leaking there is a chance it was not seated properly…in which case I would remove and inspect the clutch slave, gasket and o-ring for damage or defect… if they all look good then reinstall it careful to apply good even pressure on all sides so it seats properly inside the opening (o-ring needs to be all the way in the bore) this way the gasket gets good pressure all the way around the flat surface of the engine case… this is best achieved by completely lubing the o-ring and tightening each bolt a little at a time alternating bolts so the O-ring does not get hung up on any one side by accident. Good luck!
Some owners have had issues with the inner seal in the clutch slave on the KTM 690 and husky 701 from 2018 - 2020. In fact KTM/Husqvarna recently issued a recall on this part, on these bikes. Fortunately your machine is old enough that it should be fine :)
Yes, it could… this was just a precaution. But if you’re careful to retighten the bleeder before you release the clutch lever each time…you should be able to avoid drawing air back into the clutch slave.
Per Oberon’s install instructions I lightly oiled the rubber diaphragm with engine/gearbox oil before inserting the slave cylinder…in this case some 10/40 that was sitting on the shelf.
I have not yet talked to anyone who has had a failure on the 2021, and yet I can find no new information saying that the o-ring or clutch slave are new and improved. That said I will keep checking and update when I find new info.
@@dualsportgarage Alright, I'm in the market for a 701 enduro. I reached out to KTM to see if they have an answer on that. I'll let you know if they respond.
@@dualsportgarage From KTM: "the slave cylinder, there is an update version of that part which should be installed on all 2020 models already." Not sure how much I trust that though.
I’m not saying they gave you bad info but it does seem suspect because I have personally talked to owners of 2020 701’s and 690’s that have experienced clutch failures.
Very True. Hopefully, this remains helpful for those riders who want to get this done quickly. This is an easy fix when the local bike shop is busy and wait times are long...this time of year it's painful to wait for a bike that's in the repair shop for weeks :)
The slave cylinder on my 2020 enduro r (US model) fail before first maintenance, will buy this upgrade.
Sorry to hear that...I hope the bike didn't leave you stranded!
I have several of the NiceCNC bits for my SMCR, and I am very happy with the fit and finish. I have some KTM PP, some SM project too, the Nice CNC quality is good, just like the look of some of the other brands.
I agree, there are a lot of good choices out there… this case saver seems like an excellent value priced option.
Very informative and helpful, thanks a lot!
Thank you! Glad it helps 👍
My concern with when I installed the case guard is unless the chain guide is EXACTLY the correct thickness you may have incorrect clamping force on the clutch slave. That billet aluminum won't be flexing. If the chain guide is too thick you don't get proper clamping force on the slave. If the guide is too thin the aluminum will be trying to bend to clamp the chain guide in place. It all depends on a factory frame welded part for things to align. For the factory case guard that frame weld does not need to hold a tight tolerance.
I don't have a concern here, because the fasteners do not bottom out, so we are able to correctly torque the screws to 7.4 ft /lbs. (10Nm) Also worth noting that this update has been reliable for over 10,000 miles of riding so far. Thanks for the comment!
@@dualsportgarage You missed the point entirely. It has nothing to do with bottoming out. The factory guard is plastic with 2 bolts. It flexes so the two bolts clamp properly. The billet is three bolts. It doesn't flex. Unless all three mating points are exactly correct in three dimensional space the rigidity of the guard will prevent something from clamping properly. In my case if I finger snug the two clutch slave bolts the plastic guard won't fit in. So if you loosen the other bolts to force it in, the billet guard is trying to keep the top clutch slave bolt from clamping. Unless the whole thing can bend enough in the middle to let the bolt clamp down. Hope that makes it easier to visualize.
Okay now I gotcha, sounds like something is not seated properly, because I found that all mating surfaces matched perfectly with the plastic guide in place when I did the install...and this case saver is effectively the same design as most other popular chain guards for the 690/701, so I don't think there is a design problem...not trying to question your work, but I'm concerned that your clutch slave may not be seated fully or perhaps the rubber seal is pinched which has happened to other riders I know...not hard to do because the mating surface has a very sharp edge... it is easy to catch and cut the rubber "donut" on the edge. (...that rubber seal is replaceable if that were to happen) Hope you get it sorted.
@@dualsportgarage The clutch slave is too low, not too high. The chain slider is too thick essentially. I have the Vanasche BTW. The likely scenario is tolerance in the frame weld point. That the guard designer can't control.
I never put a gasket on dry, always soak it with whatever fluid your working with. But it may be not matter, just saying.
You are definitely not alone… whether to install gaskets dry is a healthy debate… Each of us has our own personal experience that informs our decisions…I have several decades of racing, only having installed dry gaskets …obviously that makes me comfortable with that approach… But I’ve also reached out to a couple of manufacturers to get their feedback on the subject as well which I will add to this thread… In the end I’m not really trying to change minds… because each of us has our own riding style which contributes significantly to how our machines perform and last…with that said I’m gonna say keep doing what works for you…as long as it’s on two wheels it’s all good.
Hope you get to ride some miles soon!
Absolutely! I’ve only been out for a few hundred miles on my GS so far this year. I’m sure this bike will be even more fun!
Hello, if i understood you said that we do not need the two provided washers, right?
Thx for the video.
That is correct, those are provided for banjo bolt type connections…Thanks!
@@dualsportgarage Thx mon ami!
Great video! Hey.... Why don't you use the supplied washers on the clutch cable?
Thanks! The washers are for a 90 degree connector (banjo bolt) like you typically see on a front brake line.
@@dualsportgarage oh ok. I get it. Thanks for getting back to me, otherwise I would have used the washers for no reason. Thanks again
What brand foot pegs are those. Nice informative instruction. Thanks
These are Rade Garage Adventure Pegs, also listed on their site as KTM larger lower pegs. They are 10mm lower than stock. They work great. I will post the install video on these soon. Thanks!
Do you know what oil was used by the factory with the original slave? I understand you can use either mineral oil or brake fluid.
Hi , The owners manual calls for Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 (not mineral oil). I can't say what was used from the factory. Dot 5.1 is basically a newer version of Dot 4 with the same glycol base but Dot 5.1 has a higher boiling point 260C vs 230C. Never use Dot 5 or Mineral Oil in this system these are not at all compatible. You can however add Dot 4 with Dot 5.1 as they are perfectly compatible. Hope that helps, Thanks.
Installed mine last night and replaced my engine oil today,when I let the bike idle for a few minutes oil is dripping from the bottom of the slave cylinder,would this be,a bad seal?
if you’re sure the clutch slave is leaking there is a chance it was not seated properly…in which case I would remove and inspect the clutch slave, gasket and o-ring for damage or defect… if they all look good then reinstall it careful to apply good even pressure on all sides so it seats properly inside the opening (o-ring needs to be all the way in the bore) this way the gasket gets good pressure all the way around the flat surface of the engine case… this is best achieved by completely lubing the o-ring and tightening each bolt a little at a time alternating bolts so the O-ring does not get hung up on any one side by accident. Good luck!
Hi, may I ask which tank is mounted? Yours Karl
Hi, So, this is the 701 enduro Long Range equipped with two fuel tanks from the factory. Is this what you are asking about?
Thanks.
Glad it's helpful!
why do you change this part? I have a Ktm 690 from 2012. do i also need to change it?
Some owners have had issues with the inner seal in the clutch slave on the KTM 690 and husky 701 from 2018 - 2020. In fact KTM/Husqvarna recently issued a recall on this part, on these bikes. Fortunately your machine is old enough that it should be fine :)
@@dualsportgarage okey thank you for that clearance
It could be done without the one direction valve?
Yes, it could… this was just a precaution. But if you’re careful to retighten the bleeder before you release the clutch lever each time…you should be able to avoid drawing air back into the clutch slave.
What oil did you use on the rubber gasket?
Per Oberon’s install instructions I lightly oiled the rubber diaphragm with engine/gearbox oil before inserting the slave cylinder…in this case some 10/40 that was sitting on the shelf.
@@dualsportgarage so now you mixed oil with brake fluid ..... i would have just used a bit of btake fluid
@@mikeenorris8499 No the clutch fluid is sealed on the other side,the side that he oiled will end up getting engine oil on it when he rides anyway
@@dualsportgarage I made the mistake of forgetting to oil the rubber and that's why mine spot and leaked...New one on the way!
Cool thanks
Glad it helps!
Do you know if they fixed this issue in 2021 models?
I have not yet talked to anyone who has had a failure on the 2021, and yet I can find no new information saying that the o-ring or clutch slave are new and improved. That said I will keep checking and update when I find new info.
@@dualsportgarage Alright, I'm in the market for a 701 enduro. I reached out to KTM to see if they have an answer on that. I'll let you know if they respond.
@@dualsportgarage From KTM: "the slave cylinder, there is an update version of that part which should be installed on all 2020 models already." Not sure how much I trust that though.
I’m not saying they gave you bad info but it does seem suspect because I have personally talked to owners of 2020 701’s and 690’s that have experienced clutch failures.
I just purchased a 2021 model here in Australia and was told by the dealer that the slave cylinder has been upgraded.
Luckily we dont need this product anymore as the the factory recall fix this problem
Very True. Hopefully, this remains helpful for those riders who want to get this done quickly. This is an easy fix when the local bike shop is busy and wait times are long...this time of year it's painful to wait for a bike that's in the repair shop for weeks :)
Was the recall just for the 701? I have a fe350 and I'm having the same problem
Nice instruction. But you should wear gloves, that brakefluid is no good to your hands.
Yes, you are right...but alas I am often remiss :)