Agreed on DSPs. I got an “old” Helix DSP and I can control the dang _thoughts_ of the music. People think it’s witchcraft… and I can’t say I disagree. Being able to control timing, setting up your own slopes for the filters, & controlling the range each and every channel is playing (when running an active setup), is absolutely amazing. You can get the sound to move around, you can get rid of peaks you don’t like, or correct sibilance in harsh tweeters and the like, you can fill in voids, heck you can make crappy speakers sound like magic. Of course, this is all with correct and fairly meticulous installation but still, if you’re using a DSP proficiently, you probably know your way across a proper install. Man I miss how simple it was to do installs and change gear on old cars… thank god I still got some old ones laying around, even if some are from family members. They’re always happy to get that call about you wanting to try out some gear and you don’t wanna touch your system. 😂
Thank you for the video. Cool to see people enjoying the gear we work hard to design and develop. It would be so awesome for us to be able to hook you up with some subs to change those links in your description! We believe 💯 you will be surprised with our latest VS, Y, VC and soon to be XC that will dominate anything in their class 🙂
Im shocked you haven't done this before! It sounded pretty amazing for what it was lol. You made an excellent choice too! I kinda wish I didn't just go straight to Skar for mine lol. You're making me wanna re-do lol.
I remember in the 80's & early 90's having some sort of molded cardboard behind 6x9's mounted in the rear deck lid. I personally think they assisted a good bit. That is sort of what I thought at 1st when I saw your nvx speakers but then realized they are in their stock shipping Styrofoam package & I beleive they'd sound much better spaced 1-3 mm away from thr Styrofoam. These days, most modern sterios have tracking, & logging capabilities. Tracking every move & every cell phone, every door opening & so on. Your vehicles tracking info can be used against you in court! & has been in more then one case!
I love your videos man, I have 2 sets of the 6.5, one in the front and one in the back paired with a 400 rms taramps, they shake everything in the car, I like the NVX brand, not bad for the price
If you have optical out from the Dayton audio DSP and optical out from the amp pro why not utilize it and avoid 6 rcas and possibly get less noise from signal?
🔴 Definitely want a dedicated video of the PAC product install. I installed my AMPSUB PRO on my Escalade and im having the same problem.... bass louder than highs. I'll be trying my luck with the AP4-gm61 for my application, its basically the same thing you have , just the model my Escalade uses. I have 13 speakers and I just dont know how I'll amplify everything with only front and rear channels from the ap4-gm61. I guess I'll have to find some 3way components and maybe buy the audio control amplifier with built in dsp❗️
the x9's , for being nearly a third the cost of the 3 way, sound pretty identical. I imaging the big dif will be the elevation of the sound stage in the car since with the 3 way, you are basically getting 300 hz and up coming from the dash / windshield area, where as with the x9, your getting 3k and up, since there's no midrange driver up there.
I have a question. I want to replace the stock speakers in my 2012 equinox ltz. It has the factory pioneer system. I want to retain the radio but i want to use amps. What integration harness do i use?
My short experience is the opposite, OEM door speakers tend to have a little bit more bass in them than aftermarket ones. I dont know maybe its cause aftermarket ones are made with a thought that the buyer is more likely to have a subwoofer as well.
Same experience the crappy looking factory speakers had better bass but were not as bright. Sent my car in for warranty work and it came back with stock not working so I was forced to swap in JBL components and while I was at it added sound dampening to the doors. Still less bass so it means adding a sub.
I think a lot of it is due to the installation. Look at how the OEM woofer comes mounted to the OEM bracket, it’s all one unit, perfectly sealed all around between the woofer and bracket, nice and rigid, and the front of the woffer’s also sealed to the door card with the correct length of extra bracket height and foam insulation all around. So it’s installed real solid in the door, sealed from the rear waves, and then the front of the cone is also sealed to the door card, so there’s no sound leaking from the front, into the door card, so it’s all basically using the door as an enclosure and taking steps to make sure the front waves are all directed and concentrated into the cabin through the grill in the door-card, without losing pressure, or causing interference or cancellation with the rear waves, while also minimizing rattles, if any. Plus, the door cards nowadays also have gear in them to seal out the holes in the doors themselves and contain insulation so as to contain the rear sound inside the door, making it into an enclosure, while also again controlling the rattles. Whereas when he replaced the speaker, he cut off the factory bracket, and just installed the new woofer with self tapping screws (and that’s what most people will do, if they even do _that_ good of a job). Now there are voids all around where the woofer meets the bracket, so that seal is now broken, and all that pressure and sound waves are gonna be lost and scattered, sounding into the door card and being canceled out and having interference with the rear waves. Same with the front of the woofer, he didn’t put back the foam insulation to seal it to the door card (it probably was a few mm off anyway since he cut off some plastic), so it’s gonna be leaking all that sound into the door card instead of firing it all into the cabin, so again interference and you don’t get the boost that you would if you had the door acting as an enclosure. That makes a WORLD of difference, that’s why people put so much effort on sub boxes. Well, the ones who are serious about bass/car audio anyway. You gotta either make your own custom bracket that will do all the things the OEM one did, or use the OEM one like he did but take steps to mitigate all the holes that are now gonna be created due to taking it apart and putting a different woofer in it. You gotta create a really good seal or else you’re gonna lose a TON of bass, and into the midbass, even if the aftermarket one is several times superior in every way to the OEM one. Car manufacturers have made insane improvements to their audio setups. Used to be that in your old car, anything you did made it sound better, and it was a lot easier to swap out all the gear and make a ton of changes. Now, they’re so well made and complex, that it’s harder to make changes and actually improve it a lot, specially when it comes to the electronics since they’ve become sooo much more integrated and complex. Before, you just swapped out a headunit in no time and you had control over everything. Now, you can alter components and add amps and whatnot, but on a ton of cars you’re still gonna be left with a source signal that’s already EQ’d and screwed up before it even gets to your amp, unless you really know what you’re doing. Not really for the novice anymore or the entry level DIY. Ok that was a lot longer than I meant it to be, but I had to get that across, and hope it helps anyone who might be passing by or to spread the conversation about these issues. Btw not hating on the video or anything, just talking about audio and why we get results like that.
I have the NVX X 6.5 to be swapping out previous Kicker KS. Curious to hear the sound difference. I def wanna get a DSP to be able to run them active instead of passive through the crossover
I wounder how the infinity kappa 6x9 sound components vs the nvx there basically the same price also similar in build styles they also have the kappa 61/2 components 💯 🤔🧐🎶🎵✌️
The best thing you can do to a stock system is to put insulation on the car. Doors, floors and trunk yield outstanding results. Stay away from BOSE, their OEM speakers are crap, everything is a gimmick and comes with a lot of electronics to make the sound. Changing speakers in modern cars has become somewhat of a hassle but it's worth it.
I know you are not really into proper testing equipment, but maybe for next time comparison, you can put the speakers in an open baffle set up. Because honestly, they both sound like crap. On another note, nvx makes some okay components. I would personally run cdt audio if I was looking to run a budget set up but over all great video
I appreciate you showcasing speakers other than subwoofers. Not too many of you guys doing this.
Glad I can help you with a different kind of audio upgrade!
Agreed on DSPs. I got an “old” Helix DSP and I can control the dang _thoughts_ of the music. People think it’s witchcraft… and I can’t say I disagree. Being able to control timing, setting up your own slopes for the filters, & controlling the range each and every channel is playing (when running an active setup), is absolutely amazing. You can get the sound to move around, you can get rid of peaks you don’t like, or correct sibilance in harsh tweeters and the like, you can fill in voids, heck you can make crappy speakers sound like magic. Of course, this is all with correct and fairly meticulous installation but still, if you’re using a DSP proficiently, you probably know your way across a proper install. Man I miss how simple it was to do installs and change gear on old cars… thank god I still got some old ones laying around, even if some are from family members. They’re always happy to get that call about you wanting to try out some gear and you don’t wanna touch your system. 😂
I swear, I am never EVER disappointed with the content on this page! always good stuff that'd help anyone at all.
I try my best to give a good explanation!
NVX Speakers surprised me... I installed some 4" NVX's in my old 89' 300E, and they jammed lol.
Glad to hear you're getting some good use out of them!
Thank you for the video. Cool to see people enjoying the gear we work hard to design and develop. It would be so awesome for us to be able to hook you up with some subs to change those links in your description! We believe 💯 you will be surprised with our latest VS, Y, VC and soon to be XC that will dominate anything in their class 🙂
Thanks for the offer! I'm always open to trying new gear. Send me an email and we can discuss it.
I love to demo the subs myself I own vc but wanna see how the other performance was
Love nvx my whole system is NVX ,whole car , sounds badass
Abt to add some 6.5 fronts to my 21 crv and scratching my head on my 1st real install. Modding the existing frame, genius. Thx for the vid bro 🏆
Glad it helped! 😁
I have ran their components, coaxials and tweeters. They have great sound and even better with a dsp.
@@anthonybrown6143 I know it gotta sound like a concert frfr!
@@Kdizzle989 yessir! Long as you set it up right with no distortion.
Im shocked you haven't done this before! It sounded pretty amazing for what it was lol. You made an excellent choice too! I kinda wish I didn't just go straight to Skar for mine lol. You're making me wanna re-do lol.
Give them a try; you can always return them if you don't like them. 👌
Nice, soon I'll be changing my door speakers I just bought great video.
I hope the installation goes smoothly!
I remember in the 80's & early 90's having some sort of molded cardboard behind 6x9's mounted in the rear deck lid. I personally think they assisted a good bit. That is sort of what I thought at 1st when I saw your nvx speakers but then realized they are in their stock shipping Styrofoam package & I beleive they'd sound much better spaced 1-3 mm away from thr Styrofoam. These days, most modern sterios have tracking, & logging capabilities. Tracking every move & every cell phone, every door opening & so on. Your vehicles tracking info can be used against you in court! & has been in more then one case!
I love your videos man, I have 2 sets of the 6.5, one in the front and one in the back paired with a 400 rms taramps, they shake everything in the car, I like the NVX brand, not bad for the price
That's a great setup. You've got a good system going there!
If you have optical out from the Dayton audio DSP and optical out from the amp pro why not utilize it and avoid 6 rcas and possibly get less noise from signal?
🔴 Definitely want a dedicated video of the PAC product install. I installed my AMPSUB PRO on my Escalade and im having the same problem.... bass louder than highs. I'll be trying my luck with the AP4-gm61 for my application, its basically the same thing you have , just the model my Escalade uses. I have 13 speakers and I just dont know how I'll amplify everything with only front and rear channels from the ap4-gm61. I guess I'll have to find some 3way components and maybe buy the audio control amplifier with built in dsp❗️
the x9's , for being nearly a third the cost of the 3 way, sound pretty identical. I imaging the big dif will be the elevation of the sound stage in the car since with the 3 way, you are basically getting 300 hz and up coming from the dash / windshield area, where as with the x9, your getting 3k and up, since there's no midrange driver up there.
You can go full active and grab the 3" mid to go with the 6x9 set.
I have a question. I want to replace the stock speakers in my 2012 equinox ltz. It has the factory pioneer system. I want to retain the radio but i want to use amps. What integration harness do i use?
My short experience is the opposite, OEM door speakers tend to have a little bit more bass in them than aftermarket ones. I dont know maybe its cause aftermarket ones are made with a thought that the buyer is more likely to have a subwoofer as well.
That's a good point.
Same experience the crappy looking factory speakers had better bass but were not as bright. Sent my car in for warranty work and it came back with stock not working so I was forced to swap in JBL components and while I was at it added sound dampening to the doors. Still less bass so it means adding a sub.
I think a lot of it is due to the installation. Look at how the OEM woofer comes mounted to the OEM bracket, it’s all one unit, perfectly sealed all around between the woofer and bracket, nice and rigid, and the front of the woffer’s also sealed to the door card with the correct length of extra bracket height and foam insulation all around. So it’s installed real solid in the door, sealed from the rear waves, and then the front of the cone is also sealed to the door card, so there’s no sound leaking from the front, into the door card, so it’s all basically using the door as an enclosure and taking steps to make sure the front waves are all directed and concentrated into the cabin through the grill in the door-card, without losing pressure, or causing interference or cancellation with the rear waves, while also minimizing rattles, if any. Plus, the door cards nowadays also have gear in them to seal out the holes in the doors themselves and contain insulation so as to contain the rear sound inside the door, making it into an enclosure, while also again controlling the rattles. Whereas when he replaced the speaker, he cut off the factory bracket, and just installed the new woofer with self tapping screws (and that’s what most people will do, if they even do _that_ good of a job). Now there are voids all around where the woofer meets the bracket, so that seal is now broken, and all that pressure and sound waves are gonna be lost and scattered, sounding into the door card and being canceled out and having interference with the rear waves. Same with the front of the woofer, he didn’t put back the foam insulation to seal it to the door card (it probably was a few mm off anyway since he cut off some plastic), so it’s gonna be leaking all that sound into the door card instead of firing it all into the cabin, so again interference and you don’t get the boost that you would if you had the door acting as an enclosure. That makes a WORLD of difference, that’s why people put so much effort on sub boxes. Well, the ones who are serious about bass/car audio anyway. You gotta either make your own custom bracket that will do all the things the OEM one did, or use the OEM one like he did but take steps to mitigate all the holes that are now gonna be created due to taking it apart and putting a different woofer in it. You gotta create a really good seal or else you’re gonna lose a TON of bass, and into the midbass, even if the aftermarket one is several times superior in every way to the OEM one.
Car manufacturers have made insane improvements to their audio setups. Used to be that in your old car, anything you did made it sound better, and it was a lot easier to swap out all the gear and make a ton of changes. Now, they’re so well made and complex, that it’s harder to make changes and actually improve it a lot, specially when it comes to the electronics since they’ve become sooo much more integrated and complex. Before, you just swapped out a headunit in no time and you had control over everything. Now, you can alter components and add amps and whatnot, but on a ton of cars you’re still gonna be left with a source signal that’s already EQ’d and screwed up before it even gets to your amp, unless you really know what you’re doing. Not really for the novice anymore or the entry level DIY. Ok that was a lot longer than I meant it to be, but I had to get that across, and hope it helps anyone who might be passing by or to spread the conversation about these issues. Btw not hating on the video or anything, just talking about audio and why we get results like that.
@groundcontrol6876 read it all. Thanks you making so much sense i never realised
@@tholo86 My comment was a little rushed and maybe a bit long winded, so I’m glad it still helped. :)
Are you still rocking the NVX 6x9s? I was wondering if they “broke in” and loosened up any? Would you recommend NVX? I can’t lie, they look sweet!
Yes I still have them. No compaints
That three way set looks 👌🏽 …what DSP you rockin?
Dayton Audio DSP408
Ive got some of the nvx 4x6 in truck they sound great
What quick disconnects were those on the crossover? They looked cool
They were just pushed terminals from a dead subwoofer I had laying around.
@@BudgetBassHead I see
I have the NVX X 6.5 to be swapping out previous Kicker KS. Curious to hear the sound difference. I def wanna get a DSP to be able to run them active instead of passive through the crossover
That's a great setup to have. I'm sure you'll enjoy the improvement.
I wounder how the infinity kappa 6x9 sound components vs the nvx there basically the same price also similar in build styles they also have the kappa 61/2 components 💯 🤔🧐🎶🎵✌️
The best thing you can do to a stock system is to put insulation on the car. Doors, floors and trunk yield outstanding results. Stay away from BOSE, their OEM speakers are crap, everything is a gimmick and comes with a lot of electronics to make the sound. Changing speakers in modern cars has become somewhat of a hassle but it's worth it.
Sound deadening definitely makes a difference. But the skill level required is definitely above novice. Good tip.
I know you are not really into proper testing equipment, but maybe for next time comparison, you can put the speakers in an open baffle set up. Because honestly, they both sound like crap.
On another note, nvx makes some okay components. I would personally run cdt audio if I was looking to run a budget set up but over all great video
Great tips. Thanks
1 set in the front, other in the rear if they fit
3:00 8mm = 5/16". Did you possibly mean eleventeen ninety-eighths?
The correction was 7 mm
@BudgetBassHead okay, I suppose we can let you off with a caution this time! 😁 Ps Great work, love your channel
Key words premium cost and dyi
My wifes Cadillac had the bose "premium" audio system and it sounded like trash. Nothing premium about it.
People definitely have mixed opinions about BOSE 😄
I can’t be the only one cringing at this video
I have NVX 3 way components in my raptor. Videos on my page
Cool! I'll check it out.
I just checked out your setup and the vocals sounded really really good on that three-way. Especially the R&b tracks. good job.
@ thanks man ! Anyway i can get access to these test songs you were using ? I get copy righted on my videos RUclips not pushing it out at all lol
Most of my music is from Epidemic Sounds.