Thanks for the info. I will make a follow up and see how the carb held up. It still has the rom dip when tipped forward which I think is in the carb so we can check the needle tip during that time.
Of course, you could always set the metering lever as the carb makers suggest, using their $7 tool if need be, but depending on the carb a straight edge might work as well. Then you could set up the mixture screws, as the saw maker recommends, using a tachometer - less than $20 on ebay.
Meh if you have a muffler mod or a intake mod or even just a long bar you can completely skip the manufacturers specs since the load and mix becomes different
Thanks for the comment. This saw does have a compression release as the compression is pretty high for a 50cc. That may be what you are seeing on start ups.
Your saw struggles in the wood because it's down on compression. It pulls over with very little resistance. Also the carb diaghrams are shot. When the metering side is wrinkled like that, it's lazy on the needle arm. Needs a complete carb kit. And pumper carbs get "pressure tested", not vacume. Good luck.
Thanks for the view and observations. I have a playlist on this saw that goes over most of these if you are interested. You seem pretty into saws so I think you might enjoy the journey. Thanks again!
That chain needs sharpened and some bar oil
If the metering lever is low. It will run lean
If metering lever is too high. It’ll run rich
Keep it level as per gauge
That's like a double issue if the high low screws are out of adjustment.
Is that at idle also or just full throttle?
Never pull a vacuum on the inlet, prob ruined the Viton needle tip...use 7-8# pressure only.
Thanks for the info. I will make a follow up and see how the carb held up. It still has the rom dip when tipped forward which I think is in the carb so we can check the needle tip during that time.
I too was wondering about a vacuum test on the inlet. I just haven’t seen it and didn’t know it to ruin something.
Great saw real nice carb not like today's junk
Thanks for comment and totally agree. Way more fun wrenching on the old stuff with quality materials and not cheap plastics for everything.
Thanks man, also liked the flex tape video. cheers
Thanks! I hope to have a new one shortly. Should be a lot of fun with a few original tunes.
The gasket has to be on the correct side of the diaphram too, if not the diaphram flaps won't function correctly
Of course, you could always set the metering lever as the carb makers suggest, using their $7 tool if need be, but depending on the carb a straight edge might work as well. Then you could set up the mixture screws, as the saw maker recommends, using a tachometer - less than $20 on ebay.
Meh if you have a muffler mod or a intake mod or even just a long bar you can completely skip the manufacturers specs since the load and mix becomes different
Check valve keeps the engine from flooding if im not mistaken.
Compression? Never heard of it
Don't look like much compression to me.... I take it back that looks like about 0 compression, lol
Thanks for the comment. This saw does have a compression release as the compression is pretty high for a 50cc. That may be what you are seeing on start ups.
Your saw struggles in the wood because it's down on compression. It pulls over with very little resistance. Also the carb diaghrams are shot. When the metering side is wrinkled like that, it's lazy on the needle arm. Needs a complete carb kit. And pumper carbs get "pressure tested", not vacume. Good luck.
Thanks for the view and observations. I have a playlist on this saw that goes over most of these if you are interested. You seem pretty into saws so I think you might enjoy the journey. Thanks again!
Your low needle screw looks bent.
Thanks for pointing out. I will check this out but it would explain the issues I have at idle.
You are out of the camera view, in case you don't know.
Just worn out buck don't be so cheep and bye a new saw with some dam power or you could keep playing with that shit box.