Every echo I've owned starts easily. That's why I like them. Nothing worse than struggling to start a piece of equipment and being out of breath and sweaty before you even start working.
I've had great luck with used Echo or Shindaiwa saws. I've worked on the grey and orange echoes without any issues. Plus they run great. I'm currently running 3 saws Shindaiwa 488, Shindaiwa 377 and a Jonsered 625.
To remove the plastic limiter caps, insert a drywall screw into the center of the cap and thread it in a couple of turns. Pull the cap, cover and related with a pair of plyers. Once you have the limiter caps out, use a razor blade to cut the tabs off the sides so that they are fully adjustable. With the caps in place the jets wont move from vibration. Good Video. Its hard to beat a good running gray Echo. They really went out of their way to bullet proof the saws.
It might be to much but i clean mine after every use. Plus it's still under warranty for the 4 years and i've kept my equipment clean and well taken care of the best i can
You should grab a Zama and Walbro metering lever gauge, even if you are reusing the old one its best to check its clearance to make sure it will work properly. A two pack of them is cheap and good insurance against opening a carb over and over! :) Also, Walbro makes a new style metering diaphragm that is much more resistant to warping and drying out, as well as ethanol resistant. Makes a rebuilt carb world better than an overseas knockoff.
I fix a few saws and trimmers and blowers from time to time. I can not believe some of this equipment doesn't melt down from overheating they are so dirty. To see you clean it before you worked on it warms my heart, because I don't work on them dirty either. Sometimes I have more time digging them out than I do fixing them. Great job on the diaphragm call. when I saw the wrinkles, I said there it is. I've had success popping the limiter caps with a small pick. Once they are proud, you can grab them with needle nose pliers. Good job
We have an Echo 4400 (a previous model to yours), and it has been a very good saw. I have upgraded the carb diaphragm to the spiral ones from Walbro. I also second what @admiralDG says. Those little tools have been a lifesaver. So yeah, I would get one of those saws for sure!
Dude, you earned a subscriber when you said take it to someone else and let them leave it dirty. And the fact that if you break something you will fix it when many others would try to put that on the customer, some try that. Cleaning to me says you take pride in your work, and that's awesome. Not many do these days. It's like many orher things that use to be a must growing up. Like respect and manners, which few have these days!! Great job man and good work.
I enjoyed the video. Short and sweet well done. I’m a Stihl guy but echo is my second choice. I would have replaced the carb. But it’s guyslike you that makes me want to watch.
I commend you for cleaning the machine before working on it. My question is what cleaner do you use? I’m impressed that when it is applied it seems to cut through the grease, oil and dirt immediately and when rinsed is clean. I want some!
Great homeowner-size saw! So is the cs352, cs3510, and cs400. That one also looks MINTY fresh. I havent finished the video yet, but i'm guessing carb kit gets it done.
Nice Repair Just Ditch That Anti Kickback Bar Tip Guide When You Take it Apart to Sharpen The Chain So You Can Still Do Plunge Cuts and Get The Bar Tip In Deep When Felling a Tree 😀😀 The Earliest Echos Were all Metal and Orange I’d Take The Grey Saw Too 😀
Echo, Shindaiwa and Husqvarna are the brands I’d prefer, having worked on these as well as Stihl and others. Better quality and for the most part better engineered and lower prices on parts.
Looks like a good saw to me. Enjoying your experiment with the new cleaning machine. Don’t know that I would have thought about putting the jar in the machine. Following your logic on buying bulk why not just consider replacing the carb floppy parts.
Informative video! I bought an Echo CS-3510 at a local swap meet. It looked new, no sign either tank had ever had anything them but it was missing the chain and both the oil and gas caps. After replacing those items the saw started easily and idled fine. If I slowly rev it up it runs and cuts great. However, if I quickly press the trigger it stalls. I've not removed the limiting caps yet. Do you think the HI adjustment was not set right at the factory?
thanks for the comment. If I had to guess they were set correctly. However or time, the metering diaphragm could be hardening up "just a tiny bit" which could show up in the engine behaving the way you're describing. If it was me I would remove the cap, turn the L screw out a quarter turn and then replace the cap.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I got the limiter caps out and adjusted the carb to fix the problem of the saw stalling when it's quickly reved up. One thing that seems odd, though, is the LOW adjustment only moves a quarter turn even with the cap off. The HI has a few complete turns of movement. I'm thinking I might have bent the LO or damaged its threads when I put the drywall screw in. Should the LO back out a couple of full turns after being screwed all the way in, just like the HI?
Got this saw a few months ago from my father In law... Its great and just needed to be tuned because the throttle response sucked. But all around the saw is like a sthil 261 damn near I believe it has 45 CC
I have both the grey version exactly like you repaired and it’s newer version a few cc’s more in the orange and I must say I prefer the grey one. I did have a problem with the carb at one time and a wizard fixed it but not before I purchased the new one as a back up. The grey one is close to 30 years old now and has more mustard then the new one. In fact. I switches the 18 inch bar that came with the orange one and for the 16 inch one and it goes through firewood better then new one. I’m not a diehard echo fan. I’ve owned Huskvarnas also. Tried the Stihl but it vibrated too much in my opinion.
Good afternoon, using my homelite trimmer, turned it off and when I am ready to restart it again it would not start, have any solutions as to why that happened
I just got one in a lot of old chainsaws. I am going to get it running and use it. Supposedly the gray ones aren't as good as the older or newer ones. They were orange, went to gray, and back to orange over the years.
Did it go back together at the same setting 1.25 L just shy of 3 H? Ive been in the process of fixing up an old cs3400, t-handle. The L was around 1.5 with the H about 2.25. Everything i read says start at L 1.25/1.5 H 1.5 idk seems everyone wants something diff. Looking for good throttle response. But still just a wee bit rich at the very upper end. She'll scream at 1.25H but that seems to lean to me. 🤷♂️
you can use a starting setting, but never use someone else's setting. The setting for your machine will not be the same for someone else. Don't use my setting either .. they may not work .
@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yea diff gas temp and elevations going to play into it. Was just curious if the 3 out was where that one wanted to run. Seems like a lot. Without clarification wasn't sure if someone had done that to bandaid the bad metering diaphragm. Thus requiring a more normal setting once corrected.
Just out of curiosity as customer wanted it ready for storing, did you sharpen the chain? Just to do for storage he should empty fuel and run the fuel dry.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Stihl sells a foolproof tool that sharpens and touches up the depth gauges at the same time. One for each size of chain. When I purchase my next one (to do another size chain I’ll get it directly from the manufacturer at a lower price. I’ve been sharpening since the ‘70’s and this tool does a better job than hand filing or using any other gadgets.
I just got done putting a new carb on my cs300. I did this about 2 years ago for basically the same reason. Now it's acting like it's messing with me intentionally. I put new fuel in and pulled twice and it started. Yay right? Then I shut it down and put on the bar and chain. I was so happy. Then I pulled and pulled, and choked and it finally started but died. Then I adjusted the low screw and it started. And ran fine. I shut it down myself and carried it to the trees I'm working on. It won't start. I pulled it about 8 times and nothing. So I took it into my utility room and adjusted it a bit more open on the low end. After 3 pulls it started, ixled great and revved just fine. I intentionally turned it off and then tried to start it again. 🤯. No rrstart. I'm at my wits end with this saw. When it runs, it runs and cuts great. But this constant inconsistency is so aggravating. I got the saw free and I put all new hoses, filter, tank vent etc on it. But it has been so inconsistent in its running. But I cannot see dumping it, but I swear it's definitely taxing my patience. Thanks for your video.
Hey bro what's up? That was a lot of work just to get the carburetor off that chainsaw bro. Since my chainsaw doesn't have a purge bulb I start mine exactly the same way you did bro. As for your question, I believe that you already know my answer😅
GOOD idea to clean engine, and around carburetor prior to disassembly. How many videos do you see on YT, where the mechanic is tearing apart a filthy dirty carburetor? Keeping hands clean is only one issue. Clean parts mean less chance of getting dirt in your carburetor and cylinder. You may also be able to visually see something amiss, which otherwise would be covered in dirt. Finally when running again, a clean engine is a cool running engine, AND your oiler will also work like it should, at least not be plugged up from something stupid like sawdust. I prefer to use a scraper type razor blade to remove the gaskets and metering diaphragm rather than a fat screwdriver. Back in the day before the infernal limiter caps, sometimes it was possible to simply clean the low & hi speed jets. First: You'd count the turns in to stop, so you'd have a better idea where to turn them back to for initial startup adjustment. Then remove jet adjustment screws. Grab your carburetor spray cleaner with straw nozzle & spray a couple of good shots into the holes. Replace adjustment screws, keeping them straight: hi screw in the hi hole and low screw in the low hole 🙄 and voila; oftentimes your bogging down problem just went bye bye. Now then this would not work on a badly neglected, very dirty carburetor. Also it goes without saying you'd need to test out the saw thoroughly, because one which has been sitting oftentimes soon develops other fuel related issues when you begin running the saw, with all that heat and vibration going on. Two or three days later you might still need to go all the way into it. Oftentimes though this little trick was all you needed to get going again, and take care of that storm clean up or cut some firewood before the big snow hit. No ultrasonic cleaner at my house. I've done right well over the years however, by using a stripped bread tie wire, to insure the passages were open and then spraying them all out with carburetor cleaner. Typically they do not give you a Welch plug in these kits, and so if there is severe contamination hiding in behind those you are stuck. Usually have found that area to be clean - most of the time. Good luck, and thanks for the good video. 👍
Heck I'd go after the grey version,as long as you service them like you demonstrated if needed,they will outlast a newer brand,just my opinion though,nice tune-up by the way......
I would've blown the sawdust off around the carb and opened the lo-speed jet up 1/4 turn and see what that did. Might have to salivate the limiter. Time would tell. And that's me. Blessings
I prefer Echo over Stihl in large part to the ease of starting. Which is aided by a primer bulb. So I'd prefer an Echo chainsaw with a primer bulb, regardless of color.
Replacing a carburetor should always be a last resort measure. Trust me, unless you pay a fortune for a model-specific one an aftermarket will always have a tiny difference that won't allow you to use it. My Homelite for example has an extra pulse line to pressurize the oil tank and send oil to the chain. If i were to replace it with whatever Walbro i could find I'd loose that function completely and might even damage the engine. Then there's the throttle lever which is always different, the choke might be integrated into the carb when it needs to be external, etc. Take the time to clean and rebuild what you have, replace all the valves and gaskets and unless the saw was working fine before never pay attention to where the mixture screws are at. Start with 1.5 turns out and go from there
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I've never replaced/bought a carburetor, ever. Just by working on multiple machines I know they all have subtle differences on the outside and can be a pain to source, that's why I never bother. Besides, these Walbro/Zama carburetors are practically unbreakable, you'd have to purposely smash one with a hammer to actually damage it. 99% of the time they just need a new kit and some tuning, which is nice because on the cheaper machines buying a new carb simply isn't worth it.
Been awhile since I used mine also since a repaired it not much use for me and I was gifted another one just like it from a co worker bad news it's in pieces but the Same poulan chainsaw I did a video on awhile back fixing
I will stay with echo and I bought a old echo and 2 new echo when they were on sale... New echo comes right off the shelf with a 5 year warranty and you could add to it by buying extra warranty . When other chainsaw don't have that kind of warranty
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Every echo I've owned starts easily. That's why I like them. Nothing worse than struggling to start a piece of equipment and being out of breath and sweaty before you even start working.
I know right, the frustration can be very off putting
Yeah both my Echos out start my Stihl MS251 any day. And that includes the CS 620PW without even using the compression release.
I've had great luck with used Echo or Shindaiwa saws. I've worked on the grey and orange echoes without any issues. Plus they run great.
I'm currently running 3 saws Shindaiwa 488, Shindaiwa 377 and a Jonsered 625.
very nice selection!
To remove the plastic limiter caps, insert a drywall screw into the center of the cap and thread it in a couple of turns. Pull the cap, cover and related with a pair of plyers. Once you have the limiter caps out, use a razor blade to cut the tabs off the sides so that they are fully adjustable. With the caps in place the jets wont move from vibration. Good Video. Its hard to beat a good running gray Echo. They really went out of their way to bullet proof the saws.
thank you
I have two and love them but I’m replacing the carbs on both. This video was a BIG help!
It might be to much but i clean mine after every use. Plus it's still under warranty for the 4 years and i've kept my equipment clean and well taken care of the best i can
nothing wrong with that
You should grab a Zama and Walbro metering lever gauge, even if you are reusing the old one its best to check its clearance to make sure it will work properly. A two pack of them is cheap and good insurance against opening a carb over and over! :)
Also, Walbro makes a new style metering diaphragm that is much more resistant to warping and drying out, as well as ethanol resistant. Makes a rebuilt carb world better than an overseas knockoff.
The Walbro K1-WYTA Spiral Diaphragm Upgrade Kit? About s expensive as a replacement carb. At least, a Chicom knockoff carb.
great advice
I fix a few saws and trimmers and blowers from time to time. I can not believe some of this equipment doesn't melt down from overheating they are so dirty. To see you clean it before you worked on it warms my heart, because I don't work on them dirty either. Sometimes I have more time digging them out than I do fixing them. Great job on the diaphragm call. when I saw the wrinkles, I said there it is. I've had success popping the limiter caps with a small pick. Once they are proud, you can grab them with needle nose pliers. Good job
thank you very much! I appreciate your time !
We have an Echo 4400 (a previous model to yours), and it has been a very good saw. I have upgraded the carb diaphragm to the spiral ones from Walbro. I also second what @admiralDG says. Those little tools have been a lifesaver. So yeah, I would get one of those saws for sure!
thank you, I'll have to look into getting one.
Great video and very nice work, Echo is a great brand, I have 2 older Echo saws that are pre chain brake era, a 550 evl and a 60S.
wow very nice!
Dude, you earned a subscriber when you said take it to someone else and let them leave it dirty. And the fact that if you break something you will fix it when many others would try to put that on the customer, some try that. Cleaning to me says you take pride in your work, and that's awesome. Not many do these days. It's like many orher things that use to be a must growing up. Like respect and manners, which few have these days!! Great job man and good work.
I really do appreciate that Mitchell Crager!
I enjoyed the video. Short and sweet well done. I’m a Stihl guy but echo is my second choice. I would have replaced the carb. But it’s guyslike you that makes me want to watch.
thank you I appreciate it
I commend you for cleaning the machine before working on it. My question is what cleaner do you use? I’m impressed that when it is applied it seems to cut through the grease, oil and dirt immediately and when rinsed is clean. I want some!
sure thing, it's the only degreaser harbor freight sells. It does not have what I would call an official name and when you see it, you'll understand
Great homeowner-size saw! So is the cs352, cs3510, and cs400.
That one also looks MINTY fresh.
I havent finished the video yet, but i'm guessing carb kit gets it done.
pretty much, just a cleaning and new metering diaphragm
Nice Repair Just Ditch That Anti Kickback Bar Tip Guide When You Take it Apart to Sharpen The Chain So You Can Still Do Plunge Cuts and Get The Bar Tip In Deep When Felling a Tree 😀😀 The Earliest Echos Were all Metal and Orange I’d Take The Grey Saw Too 😀
thank you
Echo, Shindaiwa and Husqvarna are the brands I’d prefer, having worked on these as well as Stihl and others. Better quality and for the most part better engineered and lower prices on parts.
you are absolutely right about that
I was just given a grey echo chainsaw. replaced the diaphragm and it works great. Quality machines
yes they are!
Looks like a good saw to me. Enjoying your experiment with the new cleaning machine. Don’t know that I would have thought about putting the jar in the machine. Following your logic on buying bulk why not just consider replacing the carb floppy parts.
thanks, and I'm still working on what the best cleaning solution is.
Nice clean older Echo chainsaw.
Sure is!
Well done repair Job. The Chain is more for polishing wood than cutting.
LOL!!
Informative video! I bought an Echo CS-3510 at a local swap meet. It looked new, no sign either tank had ever had anything them but it was missing the chain and both the oil and gas caps. After replacing those items the saw started easily and idled fine. If I slowly rev it up it runs and cuts great. However, if I quickly press the trigger it stalls. I've not removed the limiting caps yet. Do you think the HI adjustment was not set right at the factory?
thanks for the comment. If I had to guess they were set correctly. However or time, the metering diaphragm could be hardening up "just a tiny bit" which could show up in the engine behaving the way you're describing. If it was me I would remove the cap, turn the L screw out a quarter turn and then replace the cap.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I got the limiter caps out and adjusted the carb to fix the problem of the saw stalling when it's quickly reved up. One thing that seems odd, though, is the LOW adjustment only moves a quarter turn even with the cap off. The HI has a few complete turns of movement. I'm thinking I might have bent the LO or damaged its threads when I put the drywall screw in. Should the LO back out a couple of full turns after being screwed all the way in, just like the HI?
Got this saw a few months ago from my father In law... Its great and just needed to be tuned because the throttle response sucked. But all around the saw is like a sthil 261 damn near I believe it has 45 CC
nice!
I have both the grey version exactly like you repaired and it’s newer version a few cc’s more in the orange and I must say I prefer the grey one. I did have a problem with the carb at one time and a wizard fixed it but not before I purchased the new one as a back up. The grey one is close to 30 years old now and has more mustard then the new one. In fact. I switches the 18 inch bar that came with the orange one and for the 16 inch one and it goes through firewood better then new one. I’m not a diehard echo fan. I’ve owned Huskvarnas also. Tried the Stihl but it vibrated too much in my opinion.
very nice, thank you for sharing your experience
Outstanding information , Thanks.
thank you !
Good afternoon, using my homelite trimmer, turned it off and when I am ready to restart it again it would not start, have any solutions as to why that happened
Check for spark when it's hot. You could have a bad ignition coil that shorts out when hot
Do believe when I got it ( it's not new) they looked at the coil and changed it , could it have gone bad so quickly?
@@raphaelwisdom3054 i've had new coils fail within a week
more than likely the engines flooded with fuel, give it some time to dry out and then try starting it without the choke tho.
no It didn't go bad.
I just got one in a lot of old chainsaws. I am going to get it running and use it. Supposedly the gray ones aren't as good as the older or newer ones. They were orange, went to gray, and back to orange over the years.
thank you for the information
Great video.
I have been curious what you use to clean engines in most of your videos?
I use blue Dawn.
Cheers
thanks, and I've tried Dawn as well and it does okay, but I'm now using a strong degreaser instead. I have to be careful on painted surfaces though.
Did it go back together at the same setting 1.25 L just shy of 3 H?
Ive been in the process of fixing up an old cs3400, t-handle.
The L was around 1.5 with the H about 2.25.
Everything i read says start at L 1.25/1.5 H 1.5 idk seems everyone wants something diff.
Looking for good throttle response. But still just a wee bit rich at the very upper end.
She'll scream at 1.25H but that seems to lean to me. 🤷♂️
you can use a starting setting, but never use someone else's setting. The setting for your machine will not be the same for someone else. Don't use my setting either .. they may not work .
@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yea diff gas temp and elevations going to play into it.
Was just curious if the 3 out was where that one wanted to run. Seems like a lot.
Without clarification wasn't sure if someone had done that to bandaid the bad metering diaphragm. Thus requiring a more normal setting once corrected.
you are correct, I would consider 3 turns out to be near "excessive". Sorry I don't recall where the setting ended up on this one.
Just out of curiosity as customer wanted it ready for storing, did you sharpen the chain?
Just to do for storage he should empty fuel and run the fuel dry.
so after the video I did sharpen it, but I'm not very good at it. I told them they would need a new one or have it sharpened
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE thank you😀🇦🇺
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE
Stihl sells a foolproof tool that sharpens and touches up the depth gauges at the same time. One for each size of chain. When I purchase my next one (to do another size chain I’ll get it directly from the manufacturer at a lower price. I’ve been sharpening since the ‘70’s and this tool does a better job than hand filing or using any other gadgets.
I just got done putting a new carb on my cs300. I did this about 2 years ago for basically the same reason. Now it's acting like it's messing with me intentionally. I put new fuel in and pulled twice and it started. Yay right? Then I shut it down and put on the bar and chain. I was so happy. Then I pulled and pulled, and choked and it finally started but died. Then I adjusted the low screw and it started. And ran fine. I shut it down myself and carried it to the trees I'm working on. It won't start. I pulled it about 8 times and nothing. So I took it into my utility room and adjusted it a bit more open on the low end. After 3 pulls it started, ixled great and revved just fine. I intentionally turned it off and then tried to start it again. 🤯. No rrstart. I'm at my wits end with this saw. When it runs, it runs and cuts great. But this constant inconsistency is so aggravating.
I got the saw free and I put all new hoses, filter, tank vent etc on it. But it has been so inconsistent in its running. But I cannot see dumping it, but I swear it's definitely taxing my patience.
Thanks for your video.
no problem and it certainly sounds like yours is messing with you
Hey bro what's up? That was a lot of work just to get the carburetor off that chainsaw bro. Since my chainsaw doesn't have a purge bulb I start mine exactly the same way you did bro. As for your question, I believe that you already know my answer😅
I do thanks again
GOOD idea to clean engine, and around carburetor prior to disassembly. How many videos do you see on YT, where the mechanic is tearing apart a filthy dirty carburetor? Keeping hands clean is only one issue. Clean parts mean less chance of getting dirt in your carburetor and cylinder. You may also be able to visually see something amiss, which otherwise would be covered in dirt. Finally when running again, a clean engine is a cool running engine, AND your oiler will also work like it should, at least not be plugged up from something stupid like sawdust.
I prefer to use a scraper type razor blade to remove the gaskets and metering diaphragm rather than a fat screwdriver. Back in the day before the infernal limiter caps, sometimes it was possible to simply clean the low & hi speed jets. First: You'd count the turns in to stop, so you'd have a better idea where to turn them back to for initial startup adjustment. Then remove jet adjustment screws. Grab your carburetor spray cleaner with straw nozzle & spray a couple of good shots into the holes. Replace adjustment screws, keeping them straight: hi screw in the hi hole and low screw in the low hole 🙄 and voila; oftentimes your bogging down problem just went bye bye.
Now then this would not work on a badly neglected, very dirty carburetor. Also it goes without saying you'd need to test out the saw thoroughly, because one which has been sitting oftentimes soon develops other fuel related issues when you begin running the saw, with all that heat and vibration going on. Two or three days later you might still need to go all the way into it. Oftentimes though this little trick was all you needed to get going again, and take care of that storm clean up or cut some firewood before the big snow hit.
No ultrasonic cleaner at my house. I've done right well over the years however, by using a stripped bread tie wire, to insure the passages were open and then spraying them all out with carburetor cleaner. Typically they do not give you a Welch plug in these kits, and so if there is severe contamination hiding in behind those you are stuck. Usually have found that area to be clean - most of the time.
Good luck, and thanks for the good video. 👍
thank you I thought It was a good idea.
Heck I'd go after the grey version,as long as you service them like you demonstrated if needed,they will outlast a newer brand,just my opinion though,nice tune-up by the way......
agreed
I have a chainsaw that has compression and it will start then pop and mist will come out of the air filter hole have any idea what it could be?
sure, I'd do a compression test first and if that's good, I'd remove the flywheel to see if the key is sheared.
i often wonder if the people who drop stuff off ever watch your videos
some do, but most do not and it shows
What cleaner are you using?
I use the only degreaser harbor freight sells
TY for Sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video
You're welcome
The fact that it has the pancake shaped air filter is insane. Definitely an older model from what I can tell. 1998 ish maybe?
I think you're right!
Is makes a nice residential chainsaw. 👍🙏👍🙏
yes it does
That saw looks like brand new unbelievable
it certainly has very little hours on it.
Good job
Thanks
Look at the fine saw dust around carb area (dull chain) dirty air filter.
you are correct,
Everybody usually has the tools to replace a carb but not always the right tools to correctly clean one.
Got to have a good pair of boots.
well said
@@lewiemcneely9143 That's a good start, maybe a wrench or 3. Lol
And gloves!@@GuysPlayingWithTools
A half price echo? I'd grab it fast. They are very good units.
yes they are
I would've blown the sawdust off around the carb and opened the lo-speed jet up 1/4 turn and see what that did. Might have to salivate the limiter. Time would tell. And that's me. Blessings
yep you took the words out of my mouth
Doesn’t matter on brand it’s the engine, electrical system parts that run that gets the job done even the cheapest unit does good
I like this comment
I prefer Echo over Stihl in large part to the ease of starting. Which is aided by a primer bulb. So I'd prefer an Echo chainsaw with a primer bulb, regardless of color.
nice choice
Replacing a carburetor should always be a last resort measure. Trust me, unless you pay a fortune for a model-specific one an aftermarket will always have a tiny difference that won't allow you to use it.
My Homelite for example has an extra pulse line to pressurize the oil tank and send oil to the chain. If i were to replace it with whatever Walbro i could find I'd loose that function completely and might even damage the engine.
Then there's the throttle lever which is always different, the choke might be integrated into the carb when it needs to be external, etc.
Take the time to clean and rebuild what you have, replace all the valves and gaskets and unless the saw was working fine before never pay attention to where the mixture screws are at. Start with 1.5 turns out and go from there
really? your experience must be unique as I've always had great success.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I've never replaced/bought a carburetor, ever. Just by working on multiple machines I know they all have subtle differences on the outside and can be a pain to source, that's why I never bother.
Besides, these Walbro/Zama carburetors are practically unbreakable, you'd have to purposely smash one with a hammer to actually damage it. 99% of the time they just need a new kit and some tuning, which is nice because on the cheaper machines buying a new carb simply isn't worth it.
well for me it does differ but yeah Echo and Stihl are good products and that,s for sure.
they sure are
Been awhile since I used mine also since a repaired it not much use for me and I was gifted another one just like it from a co worker bad news it's in pieces but the Same poulan chainsaw I did a video on awhile back fixing
I'll have to take a look
Gray good for me
good choice
I would buy a used Echo chainsaw. They are common here, & seem well built. Put a carb kit in, & provided it's done properly, it should be good to go.
agreed, I think they're a wonder choice
I go to pawn shops & look for older echo, shindawia chainsaw
good choice
I will stay with echo and I bought a old echo and 2 new echo when they were on sale... New echo comes right off the shelf with a 5 year warranty and you could add to it by buying extra warranty . When other chainsaw don't have that kind of warranty
nice thank you letting us know that.
Hey buddy how are you
good How are you?
I'm good, I had to buy a new carburator kit for my weed weed eater because the other carb wasn't working when I repaired it
Mine runs and accelerates but after 3 minutes of use runs out of ⛽️.
farm boy echo is god
I wont work on filthy stuff. I clean everything first. Gunk and water. Echo stuff is the best.
yes it does make it a bit tough to work on when it's dirty
Sounds like a fuel delivery system problem with this chain saw that you are working on
yes you are correct.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE okay thanks for your reply on me being correct on this chainsaw issue I.h.g
That’s a very old echo chainsaw!
yes it is but it still looks great for it's age
I got a stihl ms180c chain saw for free and it is blown up and I will probably buy a $35 engine for it with a new muffler
very nice
Yeah I wouldn’t mind buying a grey echo chainsaw
it's a good choice
today i was CORNERED by my coworker
LOL!!! it happens more than I like to admit
Are you paying for premium water cuz how you making that shit look so good
LOL!!!!, Nah,, just a good degreaser.