GM 4T65E Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- 2004 Chevy Uplander. Fix for 1811 max adapts, long shift code.
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransm...
Transtar: www.transtar1....
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fi...
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource...
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Update: 06/05/21. Trans is operating smoothing. This video and other info really helped with my rebuild. I took my time and didn't skip replacing what needed to be replaced. Even did a few valve body upgrades. Thanks again Tom!
Glad it helped.
Hey brother that little metal lever that works both ways by the transmission does the mountain part go against the filter or does it go down
This is for Nathan Hayden, for some reason it is not showing your comment here or letting me answer it. So hopefully you see this. I always take the output shaft off and the clip that holds it in the diff. When assembling it I put it in from the drivers side, once it is through I put the clip back on then install the diff. Check out the 1:25:40 mark.
Tom, thank you so much for the knowledge, detailed explanation of assembly in this video. I run compact demo derby at a very competitive level. I completed my first full rebuild using this video in conjunction with a manual, and my first run on it led me to a win + aggressive driver award.
My biggest problem is I keep breaking the diode sprag. The two that broke are a different style than in this video, they do not click. Would the clicking style be stronger by chance? Additionally, would it be a straight over swap? I don't have the tag code on hand, but the trans is originally from a 3.4 2000 Impala.
They claim the non-diode is stronger. You could always try them, but no it is not a straight swap. Make sure the height is the same and they use different teeth on the clutches. Glad I was able to help, it is why I do these, pass my knowledge on before I am not able to do this no more. Congratulations on the win and the award.
Great transmission rebuild master you have great talent very professional great experience and good knowledge explaining 👍
I admire your work
Thanks 👍
do all the master leave all the screw bolts and nuts just sitting in their work area mixed together n not organized
My 4t45e got the p1811 code
Gotta keep going at this time
Thx for your knowledge
Any student in automotive classes should have your type of content in their library. I would love to be an apprentice under you
Thanks for watching.
Hoping an axle seal will take care of my leak. When I got my 01 silhouette used, both inner cv joints were shot to the point that they caused a vibration under load comparable to a tire out of balance. Replaced the cv axle a, but currently adding around a quart or 2 between oil changes. Guess I can't complain, this trans is still going strong at 200k. (Knocking on wood)
Hope so. If it is the passenger side the odds are pretty good the bushing in the housing is worn out. If it is it won't stop leaking till you replace that bushing. Pretty good mileage out of it.
Well, I replaced the seal about a month ago when I had it apart to change the control arms and brakes. So far leak has not returned. Will just have to keep an eye on it and see what happens. I think I hear pink Floyd at 1:13:48!
Forgot to add. A friend was able to pull service records. At 20k miles, 3rd clutches got replaced under warranty apparently. Not sure why.
So far since the axle seal replacement, fluid level has held. Might have gotten lucky. I think I am going to try and find one at a junkyard to build while this one is still working. At 209k now so that transmission is always on my mind for longevity
I am on the fence about getting my transmission rebuilt. 256K on a 2007 Pontiac. I ordered a Cadillac, and who knows when I will get it. Hopefully my transmission will last until the new car comes in. )
Thanks for your help previously. My RE4F02A is still smooth. Will the Raysbestos stage 1 clutches provide better performance on the 4t65e? Also will i need to change the sun gear if my 4th clutch shaft splines are worn? Thanks again.
Glad to hear it. These units work well if you do the upgrades I show in the video. I don't know that you will see that much difference in the clutches. I have never needed to change the sun gear for that. Usually the splines on the shaft are all that go. Only have had to change the sun gear because of pitting on the teeth.
I've been rebuilding mine after studying this video and and using the ATSG guide. I'm at the end just have to put the valve body back on. This video makes it seem so simple and goes very in-depth but I'm beating myself up because I think I did something wrong 😅
Why do you think that?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission first time ever doing any transmission work and it was a full rebuild with no help. Other than your video and the book. Scared I'm going to put it back in and blow $3000 worth of parts lol
@@SidyDidIt It can be daunting I know, just trust that you've done everything correctly.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission that's what I'm gonna do
Will a trans cooler help with the performance of these do you suggest putting one on?
Not performance but longevity. The cooler you can keep the transmission, the longer it will last. If you have room enough to put one where it gets good air flow, yes. Run it in parallel not series like it shows in the instructions. And don't use the plastic straps to push through the radiator and condensor coils. Mount it with hardware. Most good ones come with it now. I prefer a Hayden cooler.
I need a thermostatic element (121) for a 4t65e. I changed the fluid in mine and it was in the pan. I took it out so that I could figure out how to put it back in and had planned on doing another pan drop this weekend because the fluid was in bad shape and now it's gone. I really need one and I'm pretty sure you can't buy those. I haven't been able to find them. So if you ever change a case or break down a 4t65e for parts I would definitely buy that part from you or your shop. Thanks and keep up the videos!
Are you missing the whole thing or just the plate? If just the plate I can send you a picture of the demensions and you can make your own. Have to do that on Instagram though , it won't let you do it here.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission as far as I know just the plate. The plate pins are still attached and there was nothing else in the pan. I'll have to make another Instagram, I deleted my old one. What's yours under and when I get mine going I'll send you a message
CurmudgeonTransmission@Instagram
This is an awesome video. Got my transmission back in but I can't get the range selector to go in park. I click it counterclockwise and the furthest it goes has my reverse lights coming on.
Thanks. Did you get the detent lined up inside the neutral switch? If you missed it, which I bet you did, you don't have to take it all the way back out and apart. It can be fixed in the vehicle but it is a pain. You will need to get the side cover off. Remove the detent. And bend the neutral switch past the channel plate, being careful not to break it. Then install the detent in it's proper spot.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yep the detent spring and roller is definitely nowhere near the neutral safety switch. Thank you so much bc I wasn't finding any information on this at all.
@@jhaxondelphi1538 No problem, glad I could help.
How do you install Superior K4T65-E and Superior KO98? Any special tools needed?
No special tools needed. A drill, punch, scribe and small brake hone come in handy. Aerokroil or PB blast for lubrication. I install them both in the video, should help you. I have two videos on the 65 so if it is not a good enough view on one watch the other and see if it is better. But both come with instructions.
Since this is a whole sale job. What makes it different than a retail job?
Mostly a shorter warranty, if I can make a part last for that shorter period I will do that instead of replacing it. A retail job I wouldn't take chances.
How.many hours take to you to take it down, inspect and repair, then put it back and test?
I don't put them back in but the rest of it about 4 1/2 hours total. 30 to tear down, couple to wash everything and a couple to build this particular unit. While it is washing I am building a different unit.
Thanks for making this video. Do you have any reccomendations on safely moving the transmission onto and off of a work table after getting it out of the vehicle? Like a cherry picker/crane with a sling or would it be easier/simpler to do a two-person lift thing?
Either. 2 people work well but cherry picker is easier on the back.
you find worn parts and the customer does not want them replaced?
You would be surprised by some of the things we are asked to do by people that don't want to spend money, especially by wholesalers. Some things you can get by with for a while some just can't be done. If it can be done the warranty or lack of one will be reflected, it's their choice. Most will choose to fix it properly, especially if you show and explain it to them. It is a rare thing but does happen.
Hi im a 16 year old fixing a car i bought of my grandpa and i pulled the transmission out and wanna go the cheapest path im thinking about rebuilding. Could you reccomend me a complete rebuild kit? 2007 pontiac grand prix 4t65e it only went into reverse. Thank you so much.
Do yourself a favor and don't try and cheap out on this unit. There are places out there selling what they consider everything you need. Problem is they are full of Chinese parts. I don't use them. Almost everything we use is from WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description. Use a Transtec kit with Raybestos clutches and bands. Filtran filter. Durabond bushings. What I am really getting at is use quality parts, you will be glad you did. WIT and Transtar will sell you the Chinese stuff also if you want it, INSIST they don't. This is a lot of work to not do it right. Trust me you really do not want to do it again. I can just about gaurantee the forward band is broken. Usually burns the 2-1 band also when this happens. The parts you see me put in this one are the MINIMUM I install on these units.
I know this video is 3 years old. Hope you found a new transmission place to work for. 😊. Sounds like your boss wants to do it the cheapest way possible
I rebuilt a 4t65e and now it wants to go forward in reverse and in neutral but not in park im gonna open it back up just wondering if you have an idea what might be wrong
Probably do not have the manual valve linkage right.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you that's where i was leaning
What happens when oil leaks from the transmission breather
A few things will cause that. Transmission being overfull, overheating, restriction in the cooler. If the oil gets hot enough it will catch fire.
The channer plate gasket is bad needs to be replace
Hey tom. I tried rebuilding my 4t65e ive replaced all bushing clutckes and steels and all 3 bands. Before it would only go in reverse. I have now reinstalled the transmission and now no gear engage. Would you have an idea what might be the problem any help would be appreciated thanks in advance
Need to check line pressure. If it has pressure, maybe the linkage. If not, pump, torque converter or filter.
Привет Том! Спасибо за хорошее видео по ремонту 4t65e! С приветом из РОССИИ!
Привет из Америки. Спасибо и спасибо за просмотр.
Привет из Ленинградской области! Как коробка после переборки? Мы только собираемся ремонтировать
Mr thank you for your video, i can repair all the transmition , you are a big master
Glad I could help
What transmission rebuild kit and other parts would you recommend? Retail to last a long time. Slip shift from stop. 2005 Chevrolet Impala base 3.4 L engine 4T65E Transmission
This what I usually end up putting in this unit: Trantec kit with clutches and pistons, chain, all 3 accumulators and pins, Forward band ( if the band is broken or breaking, the 2-1 band also is usually burnt, if not it is ok to reuse it), add a 2nd steel and a shaved off clutch material outside teeth clutch in the 3rd stack, superior K4T65-E and K098 kit and case bushing. That is usually the minimum it needs, goes up from there. Oh and of course, torque converter from Precision of New Hampton.
You wrote Trantec kit. I cannot find Trantek; however, I did find Transtek. Did you mean Transtec? If you met Trantek, can you send me a link to them?
My screw up, sorry. It is Transtec, we get ours from WIT or Transtar, links are in the description.
Great video I see it many times lol , I follow up to repair my broken forward band , I disassembled for one side until reach the broken band , then I assembled again , quick question , now is assembled and mounted in the van with the cv axles installed, i put in parking but no stop neither wheel, looks like there is in neutral, is normal without oil or I need to disassembled again ? thanks in advance
Each wheel will turn independetly, try turning them together the same direction and it should hold park.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Make sense I will do before continue with frame assembly Best regards
Question for you I have A volvo S80 T6 it has the GM 4T65EV-GT transmission upon teardown I found the Sunring outer surface to be cupped from wear and the band to be really worn down. I started to get slipping going into first gear with a long shit then a long shift into second gear I didn't have any codes tried the sonax accumulator rebuild and filter replacement and fluid replacement no change finally received a code P0842 transmission fluid pressure sensor/switch A circuit low. So I know for certain there was an issue no codes for the long shift. So I know the sunring gear needs replacement which I got a replacement. I just want to ensure during the rebuild I fix what caused the sunring to fail any pointers. I did buy a rebuild kit from triple edge performance the stage one kit so I will replace the recommended valves and coils that are in the kit. If you have any pointers for the specific problem I have it would be greatly appreciated.
Usually the forward band is broken or breaking. When it does the 2-1 band will burn very badly and usually take out the sun gear drum. I am not familiar with triple edge performance or their stage 1 kit. I use a Transtec kit and Raybestos clutches and bands. Superior K4T65E and K098 kits. Sonnax is now making a longer servo pin for the forward servo to help keep the band from breaking. Most parts we buy from WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission so the kit they sell has Raybestos or Borg Warner frictions bands. So the kit has 2 oversized steels for the second clutch pack, a transgo shift kit, Sonnax TCC apply valve, Sonnax Tcc relief valve, Sonnax Performance ratio boost valve kit, thrust washer kit, new 4th clutch hub with heat treated splines Stator support bearing the kit has all new bushings, input to sunring drum bearing, new lube dam, forward apply band, 2-1 coast band high energy, reconditioned input clutch apply piston, borg warner pressure control solenoid Borg warner Tcc Solenoid, 2 OE shift solenoids, new Chain set I did notice a little slop in the chain, I am also replacing the torque converter and the pressure switch manifold. New radiator/transcooler new fluid and filter and all associated gaskets. I just wanted to see if there was anything to look at in the valve body that could be the culprit of causing the sun ring band to wear like it did. The only major issues I saw were were the 1-2 clutch pack wear and the sunring and the apply band being visibly damaged. Thanks for responding I will be completing the rebuild on this this week.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission So could the slipping clutch from 1-2 cause the sun ring damage as well. Several of the clutches are worn to bare metal no friction material. Just trying to justify what caused the damage to those components. This transmission has the ability to do a manual shift which I did use a few times to stop quickly and downshift to avoid an accident I am sure it had some affect on this condition.
Could be. Usually is caused when the forward band has an issue. They are so bad they should be replaced even if they look good. Sounds like a thorough kit. I don't use the Sonnax or Transgo kits on this, so I cannot speak to them. There are issues with the valve body and the AFL valve. That is why I use the 2 Superior kits I mentioned. Do be careful mixing kits, that can create problems of their own.
I just finished the rebuild. Now I don't have forward or reverse or any manual gears. No codes and input shaft speed is 0% and tc is 0% duty cycle no matter the throttle input. I'm thinking the tc has mechanically failed
Sounds like it or the pump.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission dang...
Thank you for your skills and knowledge
Thanks for watching
When rebuilding a 2000 to 2002 unit is it recommended or beneficial to switch to the 2003+ Diode style Sprag and the 2003+ Input clutch set that matches? Also I think you called something an LS kit at the beginning, is that a brand name of the rebuild gasket and seal kit? Thank you
They claim the diode style is stronger. I have had the diode style fail, I have never seen the other style failed. It is very rare I see a failure on the diode style, usually it has been abused. L/S is our term for a kit with clutches but no steels.
What would cause you pump shaft to not be able to spin once the pump and valve body is torqued down i had my chains explode in mine have a turbo build 600whp did a full rebuild and cant get the pump shaft to turn once i torque down the pump the shaft wont spin input still spins
It is a little burr around where the channel plate sleeve fits into the valve body or where the pump fits down into the valve body. Take a pocket knife and run it around the edge in those two places, should fix your problem. You would be surprised don't take much of a burr to cause the problem.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission i just checked didnt see anything it is a 2000 4t65e hd anything else i should look for have u seen the channel plates or valve bodys warp when the chains let go not sure where to turn after this everything spins freely with the pump off and valve body on just once the pump is bolted down it wont turn
@@00grandprixgtp Even if you can't see it run a blade around that hole. If you have a large aluminum file you can run it across it. Transtar and WIT sell a builder's stone. It is basically a large knife sharpening stone with a coarse and a fine side. Don't use it for anything but doing this as it needs to be even. Yes they can warp, but usually when it locks down it is because of the burr I am telling you about. Do both sides.
Thank you my friend .. I have a LS4 engine . 2006 Chevy Impala and the transmission on these all ways go out .. I guess it the higher power output .. Going rebuilt it soon. What brand kit you use ?
I like Transtec the best get it with either Raybestos or Borg Warner clutches and not the offshoot they will tell you is only available (Exedy). If you can get the bands with the green lining I think those are better. Always replace the forward band even if it looks good. Follow the updates I show in the video and you should have a good unit. Good luck.
Tom Bearden Thanks again.. Not the best view for everything but you did a great job for the most part . Been waiting for a video of the 4T65E for years!! Most people only take them apart or only replace the 4th clutches .. You did the full job!
@@FreshPS3gamer Working on what I can do with the camera to get a better view but it still not be in the way. Also forgot to say when you order the filter get a good one, Filtran is the best, do not get the cheap Chinese ones, you will regret it.
I'm currently rebuilding my 4t65e-hd out of an LS4 and everything went good except when I put the valve body on and torque It down, I can't turn the Input shaft/torque converter shaft (not the pump shaft). It gets extremely tight until I loosen the valve body again, then It turns freely. I made sure all the clutches were all the way seated.
@@mrkeithleeman1998 If you don't want to take everything off down to the support, take a punch and get on the 4th shaft and give it a couple of whacks. This is probably where the problem is. The bearing will walk out and when you tighten everything up it locks that shaft down. At the 30:48 mark when I am putting that plastic washer on the support, that bearing that is under it is the one I am talking about.
my question is when I'm driving 10 to 15 mi an hour in 3rd gear and if I dropp the shift from 3rd to 2nd, it bangs in really hard into 2nd. I just had the transmission rebuilt for months ago and it does it ever since. It also shudders once in awhile from 40 miles an hour or. I have the 4t65e in my Buick Lucerne, It has all new engine mounts and everything checked and tuned up. Would appreciate any help thank you
First thing I would do is make sure the adaptives were reset after the rebuild. Might try doing it again and relearning the shifts. If that does not take care of it we will discuss other things.
Mine works in all shifts except when you put D first shifts feels like neutral
Once you get it going with 1 option and is up to 25 mph you can switch to D and it will go smooth to all gears any suggestions bro??
Sounds like the forward band is broke.
In your experience, have you found the p1811 code for a 4t65e being caused by faulty solenoids or worn clutches?
It's been occasionally shifting harsh on the 1-2 and delayed on the 2-3. Been doing this on my mother's rendezvous for 5 years, hoping it's an easy fix (solenoids/shift kit) and preparing for a rebuild if not. Vehicle has 240k miles on the original engine/transmission and she certainly babies it.
Worn clutches and AFL valve. The 2nd and 3rd clutches from the factory with new clutches are close to the max specs already, does not take much to make them out of spec. That's why we add a steel to each one, they have that much clearance.
Hi Tom, I sat through another video on 4T65e! I know your in a busy shop. Would be nice if better camera capture, editing, and more detail explanations. I’ve done RUclips vids in the past like this, but fortunately I had a camera man haha!
Hey, is it absolutely necessary to change both sets of Teflon seals on turbine shaft and input clutch third clutch shafts? I don’t have the sizing tools, is warm water and feeler gauge technic good.
Not if they fit snug in their respective bores. On stuff I don't have the re-sizing tools I stretch them by hand just big enough to get them on and use a hose clamp to resize for a few minutes then put them in whatever they ride in and let them resize to that till I am ready to assemble that part. I hardly ever do the turbine shaft ones on these but I always do the input housing. Working on everything else, work in progress.
I have a few questions. How do you know for sure the 2nd drum is seated fully on the reverse shell? Should there be a small gap between that bearing and 2nd drum? And should the reverse shell have any play when 2nd drum is installed?
Yes there will be a gap. The 2nd drum is held up by the shell. The bearing rides on the support. You will know it is down if the 4th gear support sits below the case. The end clearance is adjusted by the washer that is under the bearing of the input drum. You have to either install the differential or push up on the ring gear to get the proper reading. You measure from the case to the support after that. Should be .006-.020. If it is off let me know by how much and what the thickness of your washer is and I can tell you which washer you need.
Thank you, I'll measure.
Im assembling now. I noticed the 2nd piston seal had a small tear. Not large at all on the inner seal.. should I order a new seal?
@@brandonhoud42 Absolutely. It should be changed even if it looks good.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission this was my new seal unfortunately
@@brandonhoud42 Oh. Still, yes I would change it.
I have one from a 98 Grand Prix gtp with about 180k on it that would loose all gears when it got hot (about 10 min driving) I tried replacing the filter and while it did help the transmission would start acting up (hard shifts) on longer drives (hour plus). I replaced it with one from another gtp but still have it in storage I’m guessing I need to rebuild it but do you know what could cause it to behave like that?
Filter is sucking itself shut. Usually, it is full of converter clutch material. With that kind of mileage there will be a bunch more parts that are worn out. You are correct, time for a rebuild.
Hi Tom, Thanks for the video and your willingness to share your experience and knowledge. Have viewed it several times and gearing up to rebuild my trans. I noticed when referring to that one bushing, you stated "Case" bushing. Is that correct?
Is it necessary to use a spring compressor for any of the clutch packs when removing/installing the snap rings? I am actually about to order one.
I see you go off camera for a sec with the input drum and wondering what you did. Press in a piston?
Thanks again!
Yes, well it's full description is extension housing case bushing. Transtar's number is 64060. I always get the right one because my parts guy knows what I always order. This unit you might get away without a spring compressor if you have strong fingers, but yes that is what I am doing. I actually don't use one to take it apart but I do when I put it together. Don't have a set up for the camera there and it is a bit much of work trying to get the camera everywhere I go. Could use several cameras, lol, but alas they cost money.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hey. Thanks for the help and the info. No worries....you are working with what you have. I and others do appreciate what you have done.
@@donaldtaylorjr9878 Thanks, smooth rebuilding vibes to ya.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hey Tom! Was curious about what you think as far as clearance on 3rd clutch? I saw on another video someone recommended maybe adding a steel or two to the 3rd clutch pack.
Have you done this?
I know about maybe adding a thicker steel to the 2nd clutch pack.
@@donaldtaylorjr9878 Yes, on every one. Take a third clutch with the outside teeth and remove the lining and add it on top of the cushion plate. Add a steel anywhere in the 2nd drum, putting two steel together.
Would I be able to rebuild a unit like this without all the tools the ATSG manual says you need?
This is one of the easiest transmissions to do as far as needing tools. You can get by with very little.
When replacing the pressure switch manifold does it need to be programed
No programming needed.
You mentioned using Superior Brand kits. Where do you order them from?
The Superior kit is the valve body kit, for rebuild kits I like Transtec the best, filters get Filtran if possible. We have 2 major suppliers, Transtar and WIT.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Awesome. Thank you
Do you know the part number for the bearing you installed in the extension housing at the end of the video? I cannot find it anywhere! Thanks
If you are talking about the bushing, Transtar's # is 64060.
What is the blue o-ring/seal sizing tool called and how do I get one?
The one I bought I think I got from Atec Transtool, tried to find it but did not come across it. Here is one from Adapta Case, this is Transtar's number. TRANSTAR PART NUMBER: T-34741SAC
Whats the name of the tool you can use to install all the internals at once, my trans is still in the car an reassembling it is difficult
www.toolsource.com/clutch-service-tools-c-1321_119_123/gm-clutch-assembly-final-drive-removerinstaller-p-94379.html?tsqtid=690047
@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you, your videos was extremely helpful, I'm just impatient
GM says parts have been discontinued, where else can I find these parts in Northern California.
Try WIT or Transtar, links are in the description.
Thanks I'll try that.
Great video! - I love to watch these. Does the "T" and "L" in the GM transmission tag code stand for "Transverse" and "Longitude" with respect to how they are arranged in the vehicle?
Thanks. Yes sir.
Is the chain supposed to hit back of the 4th clutches plate? Mine seems like its touches just a hair..
No it should not be touching. Check the bearing that is in the support that the sprocket runs on. See if has moved up, take a punch and knock it down some. Pretty common for it to move up out of position.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok so I figured it out why it was touching...now my other problem is the channel plate won't seat all the way...it rocks left to right a bit on the trans
What was making it touch? If everything is in it's place the channel plate should fit flat. Make sure the 4th clutches are in the right position.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission it was a plastic washer on both the drive and driven sprockets...They had came out of the grooves and that little little space made the difference...Thank you so much for replying to me...I know you don't have to respond to anyone but I hope your channel grows and your business booms..🙂
Thanks I appreciate that.
Very nice good job ser and thank you for the video
Thanks for watching.
0ne last question Sir. Does it require an $800 tool to replace the oversized 1-2 accumulator valve on the 4t65e?
Yes it does.
quetal buenas noches desde cdmx. podrias ayudar, tengo una duda por que se bota el reten del lado de la turbina de una transmision 4t60
I don't think this came through on the translator. I am not understanding the question. Expound please.
Hello are there any upgrade kits you recommend for this trans??
I find it only necessary to do what I do in this video, there are other parts available depending on how much money you want to spend. The 2 kits I use and the other things in the video I do will give you a good working unit.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission well reason I'm asking is because I have an LS4 I had it rebuilt a little over an year now spent about $2700 bucks was trying to see is that about right for a good transmission rebuild
@@tman8023 Depending on what they did and how much warranty, yes, sounds about right.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission what city are you located in if I ever needed you to rebuild mines?
@@tman8023 No offense but I don't give that info out, been asked several times. When I started doing this it is just one of those things I decided. Not doing this to get business anyways, just passing on what I have learned over the last 36 yrs.
I rebuilt mine and did everything you did and it won't shift into second gear. What should I be looking at. On a side note the one I rebuilt came out of a car one year newer. I noticed the harness was different and swapped it with the original. Haven't drven it yet. Could there be a big difference between 04 and 05 Pontiac Grand Prix comp g harnesses.
There are several different harnesses depending on what computer and solenoid setup you have. There are models with Internal Mode Switch, some have 1 wire Pressure Swith Manifold and some 4. Did you replace the piston in the second drum? Possible you might have broken a vespel ring on the support.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I replaced everything you did in the video. The pin out on the harness was different so I'm hoping that's all it is. All new electronics were also put in the valve body. I'll let you know how it goes.
My accumulator tube have some slop in them. They don't fit snug in the servo holes. Is that common.
@@lancer367 Yes. They need to be replaced. I would replace the pins also.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission would that cause it to not shift into 2nd. I did the shift kit and the pins fit snug.
hello i tried my best to follow your rebuild video and i feel that i couldnt have even got it back together without this video but i am experiencing the transmission not upshifting and some vibration with some clunk noises. any idea what i missed
Vibrations and noises are hard to know what they are without experiencing them and even then they can be hard to figure out. As far as not shifting, are we talking it's taking off in 1st and not upshifting or is it taking off in a higher gear? Be as detailed as possible, helps with diagnosis. Is the check engine light on?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission check engine light is not on. i believe it is starting in first gear. I have noticed that only in forward gears the noise is present. when putting my foot on accelerator in park and neutral engine accelerates as should. In forward gears accelator when pushed all the way does nothing not even rev the engine. The vibrations come right about 30mph. feels more like side to side if that makes sense. I did notice just now i can see small amount of smoke looks like from around closer to bell housing are not really under the car
Here is what I would do first. Double check that all your mounts and frame bolts are tight. Unplug and replug the main harness on the transmission, make sure you can hear it click when plugged in. Check your fuses.
hello again would a bad pump shaft seal cause no upshift? upon looking closer I realized a small leak at bell housing so I pulled torque converter and side cover and found what looks like a damaged section of the blue teflon shield on pump shaft
@@ryulagan1 Don't know, never run into that. Possible, would be losing pressure there. While you have it out double check nothing got damaged from that. ( burned clutches and bands )
Can you show how to pop out the passenger side axle seal where the cv axle goes in ?
Might be a while before I get another one in. Nothing special about it. If the transmission is still in the vehicle they make seal pullers pullers or you can use a screwdriver and hammer and get behind the lip of the seal and deform it enough to pop it out. If the transmission is out and the housing is off you can come in from where the differential would sit with a screwdriver and hammer and knock it out.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission awesome thanks for the help had troubles finding a video on it, great videos you make !
@@lukieduke2003 Thanks, Thanks for watching.
So I just dine doing my rebuild and go to spin the final drive carrier should my trouqe converter input shaft spin to?
You should be able to turn the pump shaft and input shaft freely. As you turn the differential the input shaft may spin also, but you should be able to turn them independently.
So that first piece you put in that the first sprag goes on. It rides on a bearing so if my replacement bushing is tight and that piece doesn't spin. That isn't right correct?
I am not totally following you. But if you have a piece that rides on a bushing and when you put it on there and it will not turn, then no it is not correct.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok I think it turned but was very hard to turn I don't remember. The piece I put in that had that very tight bushing was the first one you dropped in in your video. The part that goes in on the final drive. I had to tap it down in there with a mallet and an extension so I may need to hit that bushing more with a emory cloth or get another bushing. Thanks for the fast response. Whatever happened this blew up the final drive for sure. I hope my internal gears are Ok I should know this week.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission 6:40 is the moment you dropped it in. That piece I had to beat down in. that replacement bushing may have too small of an ID
If you could turn it by hand, you are probably ok, but you don't want them too tight. Run the risk of spinning them out or welding stuff together. Be sure and check your cooler flow through the radiator. Don't want it happening again.
Exallant sir !! My question is would the 4t65e-hd be the same and are ther any tips for it also ?
It is the same. The difference is the differential. There are different pitches to the teeth and tooth counts, some point left, some right. If your reverse reaction shell and 2nd clutch drum has the 25 degree lugs change it to the 11 degree. Other than that do what was in the video and you should be good to go
Where are the bushings in a 4T65E transmission from a 2005 Chevrolet Impala Base 3.4 Liter?
Diff. housing, diff. support, fwd. band drum, reaction sun gear drum, input drum, 2nd drum, 2nd support, stator support, front planet, sun gear and torque converter. Think I named them all.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Which bushings do I need to replace during this transmission rebuild? Thanks
@@rickanderson3612 The 2 worst ones I would do no matter what would be the diff. housing and input drum. The next ones that are not usually that worn would be the the band drum and sun gear drum. The other ones are rare.
What gasket kit are you using please..it's for an 02 4t65e.
I use Transtec. We buy from Transtar or WIT. Links are in the description. Tell them what application you have and wether you want bonded pistons and pan gaskets and they will get you the correct kit.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you so much. Your videos are immensely helpful and I appreciate your reply knowing how busy a man you are. Hats off.
I have Chevy uplander 2005 i have problem when i stop light and have to acelerate hard able to run where is your shop sr
Are you saying it is slipping on takeoff? If so, the forward band is probably breaking.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes does not want run right a way when AM on the stop o simple when trying to drive i have do slow to able to change the speed i change the oil But i been doing this jumping
The band is probably breaking. Changing the fluid will not help. You can see the end of the band where it breaks with the pan off. Unfortunately, if it is breaking you are looking at a rebuild as it is the last thing to come out of the case when taking it apart.
I’m a Volvo enthusiast, I have owned lots and have a lot of knowledge on the asin aw55 and 42 trans but I have always wanted a 2.9t6 to build but they have this gm shit that dies all the time. Can these be built to handle 400hp/500tq safely with a good cooler??
Not that I know of for the Volvo. GM did make a hardened planetary set and differential. The planets will go in a Volvo, but the diff. is different.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the response on such a old vid! The same trans is in the impala ss and people have added boost in various ways and got their hp around 600hp, with a built tranny too. I wonder what components they are using.
@@ethandonivan5175I try my best to answer any questions someone might have. Not sure. Like I said Chevy for the Impala SS had hardened planets and diff assembly. Also had the 10 degree spline reverse shell and 2nd drum. That was an update for all models. That started sometime way back because of the problems they had. Also had the diode sprags. Supposed to be tougher but I have seen them fail just about as often as the other style.. Other than putting in high energy clutches and bands I don't know of anything else available.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for your help.
Awesome video as usual...Is the holding fixture home made?
Thanks. No, if I remember correctly I bought it from Atec transtool back in the day and it was made for the TH125. I have since drilled several holes in it to fit different transmissions.
Is it worth junking a car over one of these failing even if the rest is nearly flawless? I imagine rebuilds are no longer cheap, like $4000+ in Northern California easy...
I would say no, with the price of vehicles these days. But that is a personal decision.
How much do you charge for this rebuild I’m looking to rebuild the whole trans
I don't own the shop so I don't do the pricing. With the way everything has gone up I am not sure what the going rate would be. Also going to depend on what part of the country you are in and how much damage the unit has. They used to range 2500-3200 depending on the damage.
I wanna get the whole trans rebuilt everything but the shell. the gears everything I want it all replaced to a high performance I plan on lowering and turbocharging my impala so I don’t want anything to break fast
@@jonathanyoung2082 Could not begin to think how much that would add but you will be looking at much more than the 3200. They make HD planets and differential for the SS version. Have a buddy that just had one that needed the diff and they couldn't find it. I have a video on the HD unit if you want to see what they look like.
I’m not the type of guy to care about price but I want it rebuilt to performance and it goes on my 3500 v6 07 impala I’m gonna put a turbo and stuff on it so the trans has to be able to handle the power if you find all performance parts for this transmission comment on here I’m on RUclips everyday I will see your comment I just wanna do something everyone else hasn’t done yet so please try to find stuff for me to even click on links or something I just need it rebuilt to go fast lol
Sorry but I don't have that kind of time. I work 70 hrs. a week and most of my off time is spent editing these videos. You are going to have to do your own searching for these parts. Thanks for watching.
I'm having a little trouble. I can't get the support to go down far enough on the input drum
More than likely you do not have the input drum clutches splined all the way down on the sprags. That or the second drum is not all the way down on the input drum.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission how far is the second drum supposed to go. I seem to only get it to show the second one ring on the input drum
@@vegeto186 sounds like the second drum is down, don't think the input drum is. Should have a really solid feel and sound when you barely lift it up and let it fall against the sprags.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission turns out I was an idiot and flipped the reverse band around so the drum was contacting it. Thanks man. Not often anyone replies especially on a one year old video.
I try and respond to everyone. To me it is a part of it if you are going to post videos. Thanks for watching.
What parts do you replace on a retail job?
That varies from unit to unit. If we are talking about this particular unit. L/S kit with pistons, filter, case bushing, forward band, Superior K098 and K4T65E kits, usually all the accumulators with pins, usually the chain, torque converter and then just whatever hard parts are needed.
Thanks
Welcome
is the 4th clutches different on the tap shift version
There are 2 different sets of clutches. The GM double sided and the Volvo single sided. I have a subscriber that put the Volvo clutches in a GM and he said they worked fine but 4th gear was firmer than before. I personally have never tried it.
I watched your Volvo build and those are the 4th clutches in my tap shift. Do these kits usually have both types because I have both. Should I use the type intended for my application even though that isn't what was in it. Obviously someone had this apart before. Thanks for you help.
Did some searching and the Volvo and GM Tap Shift are the same, they use one sided clutches. The regular GM use two sided. So what you have is correct. I guess I have never had a tap shift come in as I have not seen them in a GM model. So learn something new every day. Thanks for the question or I would not have known.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you. My only other thing is the bottom plate is ridged and none of the new steels are so I will just use the ridged bottom and the new flat steels.
No problem, I think that would be wise.
Where do you get your rebuilt kits? Thanks
WIT or Transtar, links are in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission oh ok thanks didn’t even see em
No problem, thanks for watching.
Здравствуйте Том!!! Скажите у вас есть ватсап? В этом видео вы сверлили сверлом пластину,какой размер сверла?
5 holes in total. 2 are .031, 3 are .086. I do not have WhatsApp.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission это в дюймах?
Yes
Спасибо!!!!!!!!
my 4t65e takes off in second then slams into first intermittently shortly after that 4th gear is now neutral too bad only had 105000km
How can I contact you ?
Here or my Instagram. CurmudgeonTransmission.
Cool video , did a kagillion 65e repairs at a
gm dealer . Don't drive a gm after working there .
Thanks. Think that is true with all kinds of stuff. I remember when I was a kid we slaughtered all our chickens and processed them. Could not eat chicken for about 10 years after that. Although I can not think of a single vehicle I would buy right now.
You are a great builder but you are held back and forced to build with less than perfect parts by upper management you should open your own shop I know it’s easy to say but just my opinion I’d rather have a bigger bill then transmission problems 5000 miles out of warranty god bless you
Thanks for watching.
Hello sir I'm deaf can you add the subtitles
RUclips was supposed to do them automatically and I can see they have not. I will do it but it may take me a while to get it up. It's a painful process to do it manually.
Good Job 👍 but your camera need to be closer
Yeah, sorry. Best I have been able to come up with so far. Best of both worlds. Very high production shop, usually rebuilding 10-15 a week, so I don't have a lot of time to mess with the camera and editing. Am constantly looking at how I might change things. I'm either too close it gets in the way or when it's out of my way it is a little too far.
Po1811
What about it? If you are wanting to prevent it put the extra steels in and the 2 valve body kits I put in.
I know this video is 3 years old. Hope you found a new transmission place to work for. 😊. Sounds like your boss wants to do it the cheapest way possible