Hello I replaced the shift solenoids on one of these transmissions and prior to this everything worked fine however after doing it and ensuring fluid is topped off I started car and at first it wouldn't move at all after a while though the car did move however it goes forward in drive neutral and reverse. I don't know what would cause reverse to drive forward but hoping you may know if the manual valve could cause this? My linkage came off during installation and I reattached it but I didnt know which tooth the little gear the linkage attaches too mattered. Any input would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏽 I cannot find any information online about the fix only that something similar has happened to others after the same procedure
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thankyou for your prompt response I'll open it up again and make sure the manual valve linkage is attached properly. And on the same tooth as the one in your video. My reverse lights do come on when put in reverse it just drives forward when I give it gas. Was this transmission pulled out with the car in park? This way I can confirm when opening again that the stud on top is orientated the same way as yours just to ensure its not my shifter cable going to the "PRNDL" is installed incorrectly. Regardless I do appreciate the help because there is very little information about this issue online and I realize my best bet is to retrace all my steps because it was working before opening it up other than the burnt up solenoid A for the 1-2 gears.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I opened everything back up and sure enough the linkage unhooked somehow. I made sure before putting the cover back on it was connected but I guess I must've bumped it while placing it on the first time. Luckily the second time opening everything up went by way faster and smoother and I got it fixed in about an hour. Thankyou for your help with this issue!
Am currently rebuilding my own 4t45e and have found your videos really helpful, only question I have is what you're putting on the back of the bearings and if it's necessary, keep up the great work Tom!
Thanks. It is assembly lube. I use the green as it is the thickest on bearings and washers to hold them in place. The gold I use for lubing up lip seals in this video is no longer available. I am currently using the blue. is a little thick for my tastes, but I don't use the red which is thinner because when it melts people think the transmission is leaking if it is used outside the case. You can use Vaseline, but it is way too thin for me.
Looking to get my Pontiac tuned here soon and this popped up in my recommendations tab, what is RUclips trying to tell me!? 😂 yes mine has this trans in it atm, I’m shooting for 250-270hp before I swap for a manual, what are your thoughts?
I responded to this post the day it posted, don't know why it did not post. Sorry about that. The manual transmission will probably hold up better than this unit. This unit is not very strong. There are no upgrades to make this unit stronger that I am aware of.
How are you dear. I have a 2008 Cobalt with a 2.2 engine and an automatic transmission. There is a problem: when I start driving the car, the transmission gear becomes hard shift after driving for 5 minutes and then When I turn off the car and restart it and drive it again, the transmission becomes normal and smooth shift. But after continuing to drive the car for 10 minutes, the transmission returns to becoming hard shift, knowing that there is a code p1811(maximum adapt and long shift). what do you think about this problem?
First thing I would check would be the tubes in the bottom pan for cracks. If they are not cracked, you will have either an EPC solenoid problem or a problem with one of the clutches or bands.
Great video!! Happy birthday!! Here in Brazil, everyone rests the discs in the fluid before assembly. Is this necessary? If so could you teach me your technique?
Thank you for this video. I got a 2008 pontiac g6 gt , I think it got the same transmission, the problem is water got in the transmission I flush the trany and filled with new fluid to the right level, now when you go over 45 mph start slipping when it command to go in 4th. the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoid they turn on and off meaning ,1-2 stay on a low speed and 2-3 stay off and then when it get to speed the 1-2 solenoid turns off and 2-3 turns on , in my opinion the the shift soleniod are working ok. looking at a scan tool noticed that it go true 1-2 -3 shift and when it get to 4 it slips . Do you gat any clues what it may be. thank again and have a blessed day
Once water gets in there the damage is done. Flushing it out and putting new fluid will not fix it. It will need to be rebuilt. All bands, clutches and rubber molded pistons. The torque converter will need to be replaced as well. You won't know until you get in there, but anything plastic may need to be replaced as well. You will be surprised at the damage it can do.
I just pulled a 4t45e out of my 2000 Oldsmobile Alero and am about to disassemble it. It was at first slipping in 2nd gear and then finally completely skipping over 2nd gear (shifting from 1st straight to 3rd) before I pulled it. I was using the car to tow a pretty heavy boat around. Any pointers for what I should look for when I disassemble it?
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionthanks for the reply. The support does not appear to be cracked at the weld. The sprog on the first drum seems to hold torque in one direction although it squeaks in the opposite free running direction. Does the squeaking mean it’s bad? I can’t apply much torque by hand in the locking direction so I’m not sure if it’s bad or not.
The squeeking does not mean anything, especially if it is dry. The sprags don't go bad very often. Are the 2nd clutches burned? What damage is obvious?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks again for your reply! The second gear steels have a blotchy "blued" look to them but still have a smooth finish and appear flat. The friction discs look dark but all still have friction material on them. Are these conditions enough to cause them to slip? I also examined the 1-2 accumulator piston for damage like cracks but did not find any. I also connected a bicycle pump to the 2nd gear clutch piston port on the support and the piston appeared to hold pressure with only a slow leak down although I didn't apply much pressure. Anything else I might look for?
Hello Today I have replaced and change parts out of this same 4T45E transmission and I have watched your video on how to rebuild the 4T45E Transmission. I went to start the car and the transmission didn't come on nor the wheel start spinning when shifting the gear. Do you know if the transmission control module have to be relearn or something else?
I am assuming the engine started, just no engagements. I would bet it is either not full of fluid or the linkage is off of the manual valve in the valve body. There is a pressure port under the cooler lines. Hook a gauge, at least one that reads to 300psi, and see if you have pressure. If you do, I will bet the linkage is off.
Hey Tom nice work where are you located? I have a 2010 4t45e that I want to install a lsd so I get get more traction on the track could you help me out.
I don't own the shop, just one of the reasons I don't give out where I am. I seen the parts in a video. Never installed them myself. Thanks for watching. If you need help finding a shop go here. atra.com/ShopFinder
Hey Tom, I just had a 4T45-E that was making a grinding noise in drive. Took the pan off and found lots of metal shavings in there. Decided to follow your disassembly video and found the differential planetary gears were stripped. Turns out that when the LH axle seal and cup was replace, they pulled the entire shaft out but the inner C clip broke in half and that half stayed in the transmission. This was a few months ago so until this week 3/6/20 the grinding noise started. Could the piece of the C clip that fell off the shaft cause the gears to strip? I thought it would have fallen into pan and got caught in the magnet.
Yes it can cause that. You would have been lucky if had just dropped to the pan, sounds like it did not and got caught up in the gears and broke them. Had an R&R guy that did that on a 4T65E fresh rebuild. Didn't even make it off the lift. He thought it was no big deal that it would drop to the pan, didn't, hell of a mess.
Hey Tom, 2009 Chevrolet Cobalt with 4T45E. There was an ATF leak for a while due to improperly sealing transmission drain plug washer (I had installed an aftermarket Dorman transmission pan that has a drain plug on it). The car would surge (buck) into each gear. Eventually, it set DTCs P0573, P0700, P0974. Even after refilling the ATF, this problem persists. I could rebuild the entire transmission myself. But, I'm debating doing so because not sure how long we plan to keep the car. I want to do it to get the experience (I used to be a dealer tech but never rebuilt an A/T), but again, I am not sure I want to invest the money for this car. Decisions, decisions. What are the odds that clutches burnt up and can cause those DTCs versus it just being an issue with the shift solenoid(s)? Obviously, lot less work just replacing the electronics versus complete rebuild. I would appreciate your thoughts.
573 is a brake switch short, 974 is 1-2 shift solenoid short to power. I think that you may be looking at a wiring problem. Constantly running low on fluid is not good though. hopefully you have not done any damage.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you. I read a bulletin regarding the possibility of wiring damage causing transmission or electrical communication DTCs. I will take a look at the wiring harness and go from there. I always appreciate your knowledge!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I looked around the engine oil filter housing, as that seemed to be the most common occurrence of harness damage, but it appeared intact. So, I inspected the rest of the harness and found the culprit: imgur.com/a/ip25D6D When the Chevrolet dealership replaced the rear main seal and all the front end seals, they removed the entire engine. This made it easier for the technician to perform the job. When the tech re-installed the engine, he neglected to place that section of the harness back onto its bracket, thus allowing the harness to contact the engine block and eventually melt over time. I recall there was a nut lying on the windshield that the tech didn't replace. Obviously it was for the bracket for this harness. imgur.com/p1QZShI I'll replace the harness and then re-evaluate the performance of the transmission after that. Hopefully things return to normal. I'm just glad the car didn't catch on fire. Thanks again for your help.
Juat got an 07 saturn ion that i replaced the motor and trans in from a car with 170k on it. After about 150 miles, i noticed that when accelerating and im under 60mph in 3rd or 4th gear, it kinda stutters slightly like it has a misfire, but no engine codes are coming up. But once im cruising, there's no issue. Im assuming 3-4 clutches are getting bad? Changed fluid with no difference. Used tcm from donor car with also no difference. I do have a spare 06 4t45e that I'm tossing around the idea of rebuilding as well. Any reccomendations on rebuild kits? It will be my first a/t rebuild
Just because there are no misfire codes does not mean it is not misfiring. You will need to watch live data on a scanner when it is happening. It will probably be a misfire or a T/C shudder. You can watch T/C slip rpm also.
Hey Tom, I have watched your videos quite a bit and they have been extremely helpful. I cant tell if my case bushing is causing my axle to wobble or if it is my spider gears in my final drive. Ive torn the the transmission down per your videos. Yes the axle was replaced in the vehicle and I tried every external possible solution before digging in to the trans. I found that there was excess wobble in my extension shaft when in the diff. Once everything was removed the case bushing looked to be okay even though i have a new one. It just seems as though the gear that rides on my sun gear in my diff has extreme up and down play and my whole diff wobbles quite a bit now that it is removed. The gears have some wear but not too bad and the rotational play /backlash looks alright/normal. It is just the whole darn thing wobbles quite excessively on the axis of the extension shaft on the drivers side. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your videos with us!
I would put a new case bushing in no matter what the one that is in there looks like. Is there any way you can video your diff and post it to either your channel or to my Instagram?
Hey Tom, 2007 / 2008 Saturn Vue Hybrid with 2.4 engine automatic transaxle has the “4T45E transaxle”. But I am told the “non Hybrid” Saturn Vue that also has the “4T45E” transaxle is not interchangeable with the “Hybrid “. What is different? Can I get a non hybrid transaxle and switch some parts around so it will work in my hybrid? Thanks, Eric
I have not worked on one of those yet. Only seen pictures and read a couple of articles. However I can tell you everything from the channel plate up is totally different. Now from the channel plate down there may be some parts that are the same. There is a person on here that is a subscriber that I bet you he has worked on them. He is a GM tech. His handle is Allison Duramax. I will reach out to him and see what he says.
I thought I bought my seal drivers from Atec Transtool but looked on their site and did not see them. Most of my sockets and pry bars are from Snap-On. Don't recall any other special tools. Here is Atec site, if you just type in their name and click on their site it never seems to let you look at anything but this site seems to have most of their stuff.www.toolsource.com/atec-transtool-m-22166.html. I will look at my seal installers Monday and see if there is a name on them. Any other tools just let me know and I will see what I can do.
Have not forgot about the seal drivers. There was no name or number on them. Have been looking and have not seen them yet. Talked to my supplier and he was supposed to try and find out about them but have not heard back from him yet.
Atec had a plastic set they used to sell that I used before I got the steel ones. My supplier contacted them and not only do they not sell that one any more but they said they never sold a steel one. For the life of me I can not remember where I got it. I have been searching around and can not find it. Closest one I came to is sold by Cobra Transmission. They show it to be out of stock but you might try contacting them.
Thanks for the help i installed my rebuilt transmission 4t40e everything works except when i put in D for drive car won't move. Shifting manually 1-2-3 and reverse all works can't figure out what i did wrong! any suggestion. thanks
Yes i have only low and reverse now i found a site GM 4t40e on how things operate and i have a Acel scan tool will check it out more when in drive the shift solenoids should be on but there not . Thanks have great weekend
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I did just that! Found an ATRA shop and dropped it off this morning. Thank you for this video, transmission specialists such as yourself are a blessing to us all. Take care
Hello, man that is a great video! Can you post the kit #'s and manufacturer? Also, i see you are putting new piston in as well. is there a kit for those?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission do these t45's have a common failure point? 170,000 on mine fluid never changed. Last weekend was shifting HARD from 1-2, 2-3 after driving 30mins. Shut car off 5 mins then acting normal till another 30 mins. Did that for 2 days then stopped. . Hasn't done since. I'm old school don't change fluid with all those miles. What about you?
@@keithlong2788 No, don't change the fluid. Sounds like there is a code stored even if the light is not on. That would raise the line pressure causing the harsh shift. Shutting it off will reset it until it happens again.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission hmm, they just did inspection and emissions and he said he didn't see any stored codes. Can old fluid raise line pressure? I've never had ANY problems with this trans and this behavior was out of the blue.
No old fluid is not going to do that. What I would do is go and get it to happen and take and have the codes read without shutting it off and see if it has any then.
I broke the reverse band in my tranny. We are putting it back together but theres not enough room for the final support plate to fit. We are about 1/4 inch shy. Any ideas?
If you could help te that would be great got the same transmission changing the solenoids all of then the one on the bottom towards the radiator it seems it wont go back in. It is sloppy loose but wont go any father i feel it should go in farther but i cant get i to do anything. Feels like its bottomed out bot dont really know. sure hope you can help me i cant find anything anywhere thank you ps love the commercials
The solenoid should be flush up against the valve body. It will wiggle in the bore. Go to my Instagram and send me a request and I can show you a video of it there. CurmudgeonTransmission
Great video, but I was wondering if you could help me. I was finishing tightening down the last bold of the side case after changing some solenoids and heard a pop. Then I looked at my axle seal and there is a spring stuck in between the seal and axle about the thickness of the "manual valve link". What could this be? I have a photo of it as well.
The spring is probably off the axle seal. One of the reasons I don' put the axle seals in till I have the cover on. There are 2 pieces to it. You can put the main seal in . After the cover is on I put the cup in to the proper depth.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks, it is starting to make sense. How much of the transmission will I need to disassemble to fix it? I have a new axle seal to put in, but I don't see a spring anywhere. I was squeezing my hands in there to replace the solenoids. I appreciate your help, it means a lot.
@@jam0n85 None of it probably. Take the seal back out. While putting the new seal in run a lip seal tool around the inside of it between it and the cup till it gets started around it and then install the seal to the proper depth.
Heya, I have a 4t45e that has lost 4th gear. I tore it apart, and both the 4th gear clutchplates and the metal plates are burnt. Can I continue using the metal plates with said hotspots, or should I replace them? The rest of the transmission is ok though. Also, what size are the checkballs for the valve body? I removed mine to clean it and I lost one.
Which ones are you thinking are 4th gear? 4th on this transmission is the band under the support, it's actually 2nd and 4th. As far as hot spots on steels, that is a judgement call. Any doubts you have and I would replace them. The check balls are .250.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ah, my mistake. It’s just the outermost clutch packs. This is my first time rebuilding a transmission, and I am in college for automotive. This is more of a learning experience for me. As for the hotspots, can they cause premature wear, even if they are very minor? Thank you so much
@@thefrostypineapple9780 If they are very minor you will probably be okay.. If you're talking about the largest clutches just under the support, those are the 2nd clutches.
Hey Tom, great step by step videos.....i have a 4t45e. with 130K ...it started leaking fluid from cv axle seal and my son is 16 and typical teenager so he decided to keep quiet after it started slipping and acting up until he parked on a very steep hill facing down ...he said he couldnt get it to bk up the hill he said he mashed gas to floor until it creeped up the hill then called me .....now its stuck in drive even when i shift it to reverse (reverse lights come on)it still trys to drive forward and when in park if i press on gas it acts like it wants to go forward yet also acts like someone is pushing the brakes and the rear end kind of hunkers down ??? i have changed pan gasket ,fluid,and filter, changed the shift solenoids and it is no different .....after i watched your step by step video i feel like i could rebuild it myself but i have never rebuilt or swapped one before.... could you steer me in right direction maybe ? the guessing game is killing my bank account....should i rebuild the trans or buy a used one and swap them ,what do you recommend or do you have a idea of what might be causing this problem ? If i was going to guess again and try to replace another part i was going to try the neutral safety switch because i can shift out of park without even pressing the brake and i can crank it in any gear i have it in and with it being stuck in drive i think the switch should be keeping it from cranking? thanks Tom!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I had a 4 tab tan one in where this one beloned between Forward Clutch hub and cover so I switched that our. Now I have that 4 tab tan one to find its place. It is 2.60 OD and 2.18 ID. Can you help me with this? Thank you
@@CurmudgeonTransmission tks but I was asking about the one in the transmission The new seal bushing type have no oil hole in it I was wondering if we must make a hole in it or when we install the line it will make one by the line push in
Tom how ya doing new sub here ..was asking for the guru's help ..I see your qiiet the builder with your eyes closed .haaa.. so I picked up a tranny from junkyard for my 2006 HHR Chevy I cracked open the case there & when I put it back happened to notice a small dowel like laying on the ground..(looks like a dowel from the battleship board game ) lol 😆 but look like bout 1inch & a half or so.. with a skinnier tit on one end & small hole on opposite end PLEASE could this have come from. Thr gear selector when I manually shifted the lever when the case was open PLEASE help me save this tranny ...WHERE MIGHT IT GO 🤔 👀 thanks for your time boss GOD BLESS 🙏. (Think at the beginning of your tear down video you stated something about it that (oh it comes out here.. but I couldn't see where .) Think that might be the part 🤔
@@CurmudgeonTransmission hey bud I posted a vid on my channel lol..only way I knew how... it was super late so please excuse me ...please let me know what ya think 🙏..God bless
Great video! Learned LOTS! I'm not longer afraid of a transmission breaking!!!
Thanks for watching.
Really helpful video. Thank you for sharing your craft.
Glad it helped thanks for watching.
Hello I replaced the shift solenoids on one of these transmissions and prior to this everything worked fine however after doing it and ensuring fluid is topped off I started car and at first it wouldn't move at all after a while though the car did move however it goes forward in drive neutral and reverse. I don't know what would cause reverse to drive forward but hoping you may know if the manual valve could cause this? My linkage came off during installation and I reattached it but I didnt know which tooth the little gear the linkage attaches too mattered. Any input would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏽 I cannot find any information online about the fix only that something similar has happened to others after the same procedure
Sounds like the linkage is not hooked up correctly or came loose.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thankyou for your prompt response I'll open it up again and make sure the manual valve linkage is attached properly. And on the same tooth as the one in your video. My reverse lights do come on when put in reverse it just drives forward when I give it gas. Was this transmission pulled out with the car in park? This way I can confirm when opening again that the stud on top is orientated the same way as yours just to ensure its not my shifter cable going to the "PRNDL" is installed incorrectly. Regardless I do appreciate the help because there is very little information about this issue online and I realize my best bet is to retrace all my steps because it was working before opening it up other than the burnt up solenoid A for the 1-2 gears.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I opened everything back up and sure enough the linkage unhooked somehow. I made sure before putting the cover back on it was connected but I guess I must've bumped it while placing it on the first time. Luckily the second time opening everything up went by way faster and smoother and I got it fixed in about an hour. Thankyou for your help with this issue!
Am currently rebuilding my own 4t45e and have found your videos really helpful, only question I have is what you're putting on the back of the bearings and if it's necessary, keep up the great work Tom!
Thanks. It is assembly lube. I use the green as it is the thickest on bearings and washers to hold them in place. The gold I use for lubing up lip seals in this video is no longer available. I am currently using the blue. is a little thick for my tastes, but I don't use the red which is thinner because when it melts people think the transmission is leaking if it is used outside the case. You can use Vaseline, but it is way too thin for me.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission what part or parts go bad the most in
these that kills forward and reverse gears?
Looking to get my Pontiac tuned here soon and this popped up in my recommendations tab, what is RUclips trying to tell me!? 😂 yes mine has this trans in it atm, I’m shooting for 250-270hp before I swap for a manual, what are your thoughts?
I responded to this post the day it posted, don't know why it did not post. Sorry about that. The manual transmission will probably hold up better than this unit. This unit is not very strong. There are no upgrades to make this unit stronger that I am aware of.
How are you dear. I have a 2008 Cobalt with a 2.2 engine and an automatic transmission. There is a problem: when I start driving the car, the transmission gear becomes hard shift after driving for 5 minutes and then When I turn off the car and restart it and drive it again, the transmission becomes normal and smooth shift. But after continuing to drive the car for 10 minutes, the transmission returns to becoming hard shift, knowing that there is a code p1811(maximum adapt and long shift). what do you think about this problem?
First thing I would check would be the tubes in the bottom pan for cracks. If they are not cracked, you will have either an EPC solenoid problem or a problem with one of the clutches or bands.
Great video!! Happy birthday!! Here in Brazil, everyone rests the discs in the fluid before assembly. Is this necessary? If so could you teach me your technique?
Thanks. I have never seen a difference soaking them and not. As long as you are using a quality clutch. So I choose not to.
Thank you for this video. I got a 2008 pontiac g6 gt , I think it got the same transmission, the problem is water got in the transmission I flush the trany and filled with new fluid to the right level, now when you go over 45 mph start slipping when it command to go in 4th. the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoid they turn on and off meaning ,1-2 stay on a low speed and 2-3 stay off and then when it get to speed the 1-2 solenoid turns off and 2-3 turns on , in my opinion the the shift soleniod are working ok. looking at a scan tool noticed that it go true 1-2 -3 shift and when it get to 4 it slips . Do you gat any clues what it may be. thank again and have a blessed day
Once water gets in there the damage is done. Flushing it out and putting new fluid will not fix it. It will need to be rebuilt. All bands, clutches and rubber molded pistons. The torque converter will need to be replaced as well. You won't know until you get in there, but anything plastic may need to be replaced as well. You will be surprised at the damage it can do.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you so much for your reply and knowledge. Have a blessed day
I just pulled a 4t45e out of my 2000 Oldsmobile Alero and am about to disassemble it. It was at first slipping in 2nd gear and then finally completely skipping over 2nd gear (shifting from 1st straight to 3rd) before I pulled it. I was using the car to tow a pretty heavy boat around. Any pointers for what I should look for when I disassemble it?
Look closely where the 2 halves of the support are welded together. Have seen them crack there. That and the sprag assembly, make sure it is holding.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionthanks for the reply. The support does not appear to be cracked at the weld. The sprog on the first drum seems to hold torque in one direction although it squeaks in the opposite free running direction. Does the squeaking mean it’s bad? I can’t apply much torque by hand in the locking direction so I’m not sure if it’s bad or not.
The squeeking does not mean anything, especially if it is dry. The sprags don't go bad very often. Are the 2nd clutches burned? What damage is obvious?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks again for your reply! The second gear steels have a blotchy "blued" look to them but still have a smooth finish and appear flat. The friction discs look dark but all still have friction material on them. Are these conditions enough to cause them to slip? I also examined the 1-2 accumulator piston for damage like cracks but did not find any. I also connected a bicycle pump to the 2nd gear clutch piston port on the support and the piston appeared to hold pressure with only a slow leak down although I didn't apply much pressure. Anything else I might look for?
Hello Today I have replaced and change parts out of this same 4T45E transmission and I have watched your video on how to rebuild the 4T45E Transmission. I went to start the car and the transmission didn't come on nor the wheel start spinning when shifting the gear. Do you know if the transmission control module have to be relearn or something else?
I am assuming the engine started, just no engagements. I would bet it is either not full of fluid or the linkage is off of the manual valve in the valve body. There is a pressure port under the cooler lines. Hook a gauge, at least one that reads to 300psi, and see if you have pressure. If you do, I will bet the linkage is off.
Hey Tom nice work where are you located? I have a 2010 4t45e that I want to install a lsd so I get get more traction on the track could you help me out.
I don't own the shop, just one of the reasons I don't give out where I am. I seen the parts in a video. Never installed them myself. Thanks for watching. If you need help finding a shop go here. atra.com/ShopFinder
Hey Tom, I just had a 4T45-E that was making a grinding noise in drive. Took the pan off and found lots of metal shavings in there. Decided to follow your disassembly video and found the differential planetary gears were stripped. Turns out that when the LH axle seal and cup was replace, they pulled the entire shaft out but the inner C clip broke in half and that half stayed in the transmission. This was a few months ago so until this week 3/6/20 the grinding noise started. Could the piece of the C clip that fell off the shaft cause the gears to strip? I thought it would have fallen into pan and got caught in the magnet.
Yes it can cause that. You would have been lucky if had just dropped to the pan, sounds like it did not and got caught up in the gears and broke them. Had an R&R guy that did that on a 4T65E fresh rebuild. Didn't even make it off the lift. He thought it was no big deal that it would drop to the pan, didn't, hell of a mess.
Hey Tom,
2009 Chevrolet Cobalt with 4T45E. There was an ATF leak for a while due to improperly sealing transmission drain plug washer (I had installed an aftermarket Dorman transmission pan that has a drain plug on it). The car would surge (buck) into each gear. Eventually, it set DTCs P0573, P0700, P0974. Even after refilling the ATF, this problem persists.
I could rebuild the entire transmission myself. But, I'm debating doing so because not sure how long we plan to keep the car. I want to do it to get the experience (I used to be a dealer tech but never rebuilt an A/T), but again, I am not sure I want to invest the money for this car.
Decisions, decisions.
What are the odds that clutches burnt up and can cause those DTCs versus it just being an issue with the shift solenoid(s)? Obviously, lot less work just replacing the electronics versus complete rebuild.
I would appreciate your thoughts.
573 is a brake switch short, 974 is 1-2 shift solenoid short to power. I think that you may be looking at a wiring problem. Constantly running low on fluid is not good though. hopefully you have not done any damage.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you. I read a bulletin regarding the possibility of wiring damage causing transmission or electrical communication DTCs. I will take a look at the wiring harness and go from there.
I always appreciate your knowledge!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I looked around the engine oil filter housing, as that seemed to be the most common occurrence of harness damage, but it appeared intact. So, I inspected the rest of the harness and found the culprit:
imgur.com/a/ip25D6D
When the Chevrolet dealership replaced the rear main seal and all the front end seals, they removed the entire engine. This made it easier for the technician to perform the job.
When the tech re-installed the engine, he neglected to place that section of the harness back onto its bracket, thus allowing the harness to contact the engine block and eventually melt over time. I recall there was a nut lying on the windshield that the tech didn't replace. Obviously it was for the bracket for this harness.
imgur.com/p1QZShI
I'll replace the harness and then re-evaluate the performance of the transmission after that. Hopefully things return to normal. I'm just glad the car didn't catch on fire.
Thanks again for your help.
Juat got an 07 saturn ion that i replaced the motor and trans in from a car with 170k on it. After about 150 miles, i noticed that when accelerating and im under 60mph in 3rd or 4th gear, it kinda stutters slightly like it has a misfire, but no engine codes are coming up. But once im cruising, there's no issue.
Im assuming 3-4 clutches are getting bad? Changed fluid with no difference. Used tcm from donor car with also no difference. I do have a spare 06 4t45e that I'm tossing around the idea of rebuilding as well. Any reccomendations on rebuild kits? It will be my first a/t rebuild
Transtec with raybestos clutches. Get the kit with pistons.
Just because there are no misfire codes does not mean it is not misfiring. You will need to watch live data on a scanner when it is happening. It will probably be a misfire or a T/C shudder. You can watch T/C slip rpm also.
Hey Tom, I have watched your videos quite a bit and they have been extremely helpful. I cant tell if my case bushing is causing my axle to wobble or if it is my spider gears in my final drive. Ive torn the the transmission down per your videos. Yes the axle was replaced in the vehicle and I tried every external possible solution before digging in to the trans. I found that there was excess wobble in my extension shaft when in the diff. Once everything was removed the case bushing looked to be okay even though i have a new one. It just seems as though the gear that rides on my sun gear in my diff has extreme up and down play and my whole diff wobbles quite a bit now that it is removed. The gears have some wear but not too bad and the rotational play /backlash looks alright/normal. It is just the whole darn thing wobbles quite excessively on the axis of the extension shaft on the drivers side. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your videos with us!
I would put a new case bushing in no matter what the one that is in there looks like. Is there any way you can video your diff and post it to either your channel or to my Instagram?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I could certainly do that by tomorrow. Man that is so much appreciated.
No problem, let me know when it is posted.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission it is posted! ruclips.net/video/bD3HmWrVB_M/видео.html
Muy buenos tus vídeos ton
Hey Tom,
2007 / 2008 Saturn Vue Hybrid with 2.4 engine automatic transaxle has the “4T45E transaxle”. But I am told the “non Hybrid” Saturn Vue that also has the “4T45E” transaxle is not interchangeable with the “Hybrid “. What is different? Can I get a non hybrid transaxle and switch some parts around so it will work in my hybrid?
Thanks,
Eric
I have not worked on one of those yet. Only seen pictures and read a couple of articles. However I can tell you everything from the channel plate up is totally different. Now from the channel plate down there may be some parts that are the same. There is a person on here that is a subscriber that I bet you he has worked on them. He is a GM tech. His handle is Allison Duramax. I will reach out to him and see what he says.
This just helped me so much. I need to do this my 2010 G6 with the 4t45e. Can you post links to the seal drivers and tools you used?
I thought I bought my seal drivers from Atec Transtool but looked on their site and did not see them. Most of my sockets and pry bars are from Snap-On. Don't recall any other special tools. Here is Atec site, if you just type in their name and click on their site it never seems to let you look at anything but this site seems to have most of their stuff.www.toolsource.com/atec-transtool-m-22166.html. I will look at my seal installers Monday and see if there is a name on them. Any other tools just let me know and I will see what I can do.
Have not forgot about the seal drivers. There was no name or number on them. Have been looking and have not seen them yet. Talked to my supplier and he was supposed to try and find out about them but have not heard back from him yet.
Atec had a plastic set they used to sell that I used before I got the steel ones. My supplier contacted them and not only do they not sell that one any more but they said they never sold a steel one. For the life of me I can not remember where I got it. I have been searching around and can not find it. Closest one I came to is sold by Cobra Transmission. They show it to be out of stock but you might try contacting them.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for your help and tracking down some of the tools.
@@ericbean2719 Wished I could have been more help.
Thanks for the help i installed my rebuilt transmission 4t40e everything works except when i put in D for drive car won't move. Shifting manually 1-2-3 and reverse all works can't figure out what i did wrong! any suggestion. thanks
I would say a bad or backwards low sprag.
Yes i have only low and reverse now i found a site GM 4t40e on how things operate and i have a Acel scan tool will check it out more when in drive the shift solenoids should be on but there not . Thanks have great weekend
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks it was backward sprag now it driving great
My 4T45e just failed with 216,000 miles. Looking to get it rebuilt!
Go to ATRA ( Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association ) and the shop finder tab, they will give you recommendations.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I did just that! Found an ATRA shop and dropped it off this morning. Thank you for this video, transmission specialists such as yourself are a blessing to us all. Take care
Glad to help, you as well.
Hello, man that is a great video! Can you post the kit #'s and manufacturer? Also, i see you are putting new piston in as well. is there a kit for those?
Thanks. 14008APW from Transtar, WIT should be the same. Links are in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission do these t45's have a common failure point? 170,000 on mine fluid never changed. Last weekend was shifting HARD from 1-2, 2-3 after driving 30mins. Shut car off 5 mins then acting normal till another 30 mins. Did that for 2 days then stopped. . Hasn't done since. I'm old school don't change fluid with all those miles. What about you?
@@keithlong2788 No, don't change the fluid. Sounds like there is a code stored even if the light is not on. That would raise the line pressure causing the harsh shift. Shutting it off will reset it until it happens again.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission hmm, they just did inspection and emissions and he said he didn't see any stored codes. Can old fluid raise line pressure? I've never had ANY problems with this trans and this behavior was out of the blue.
No old fluid is not going to do that. What I would do is go and get it to happen and take and have the codes read without shutting it off and see if it has any then.
Whats your go to kit for these?
Transtec with Raybestos clutches.
I broke the reverse band in my tranny. We are putting it back together but theres not enough room for the final support plate to fit. We are about 1/4 inch shy. Any ideas?
Either the ring gear is not all the way down or there is a bearing out of place.
If you could help te that would be great got the same transmission changing the solenoids all of then the one on the bottom towards the radiator it seems it wont go back in. It is sloppy loose but wont go any father i feel it should go in farther but i cant get i to do anything. Feels like its bottomed out bot dont really know. sure hope you can help me i cant find anything anywhere thank you ps love the commercials
The solenoid should be flush up against the valve body. It will wiggle in the bore. Go to my Instagram and send me a request and I can show you a video of it there. CurmudgeonTransmission
Great video, but I was wondering if you could help me. I was finishing tightening down the last bold of the side case after changing some solenoids and heard a pop. Then I looked at my axle seal and there is a spring stuck in between the seal and axle about the thickness of the "manual valve link". What could this be? I have a photo of it as well.
The spring is probably off the axle seal. One of the reasons I don' put the axle seals in till I have the cover on. There are 2 pieces to it. You can put the main seal in . After the cover is on I put the cup in to the proper depth.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks, it is starting to make sense. How much of the transmission will I need to disassemble to fix it? I have a new axle seal to put in, but I don't see a spring anywhere. I was squeezing my hands in there to replace the solenoids. I appreciate your help, it means a lot.
@@jam0n85 None of it probably. Take the seal back out. While putting the new seal in run a lip seal tool around the inside of it between it and the cup till it gets started around it and then install the seal to the proper depth.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ok. So the spring was in the rubber of the seal? I thought it was just rubber. That's great news. Thanks
@@jam0n85 Yes. If you will look at the new seal, on the inner lip. Roll it back a little and you will see it.
Heya, I have a 4t45e that has lost 4th gear. I tore it apart, and both the 4th gear clutchplates and the metal plates are burnt. Can I continue using the metal plates with said hotspots, or should I replace them? The rest of the transmission is ok though. Also, what size are the checkballs for the valve body? I removed mine to clean it and I lost one.
Which ones are you thinking are 4th gear? 4th on this transmission is the band under the support, it's actually 2nd and 4th. As far as hot spots on steels, that is a judgement call. Any doubts you have and I would replace them. The check balls are .250.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ah, my mistake. It’s just the outermost clutch packs. This is my first time rebuilding a transmission, and I am in college for automotive. This is more of a learning experience for me. As for the hotspots, can they cause premature wear, even if they are very minor? Thank you so much
@@thefrostypineapple9780 If they are very minor you will probably be okay.. If you're talking about the largest clutches just under the support, those are the 2nd clutches.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission got it. Thank you so much!
@@thefrostypineapple9780 Anytime
Hey Tom, great step by step videos.....i have a 4t45e. with 130K ...it started leaking fluid from cv axle seal and my son is 16 and typical teenager so he decided to keep quiet after it started slipping and acting up until he parked on a very steep hill facing down ...he said he couldnt get it to bk up the hill he said he mashed gas to floor until it creeped up the hill then called me .....now its stuck in drive even when i shift it to reverse (reverse lights come on)it still trys to drive forward and when in park if i press on gas it acts like it wants to go forward yet also acts like someone is pushing the brakes and the rear end kind of hunkers down ??? i have changed pan gasket ,fluid,and filter, changed the shift solenoids and it is no different .....after i watched your step by step video i feel like i could rebuild it myself but i have never rebuilt or swapped one before.... could you steer me in right direction maybe ? the guessing game is killing my bank account....should i rebuild the trans or buy a used one and swap them ,what do you recommend or do you have a idea of what might be causing this problem ? If i was going to guess again and try to replace another part i was going to try the neutral safety switch because i can shift out of park without even pressing the brake and i can crank it in any gear i have it in and with it being stuck in drive i think the switch should be keeping it from cranking? thanks Tom!
something is stuck. Him being on the forward down incline pushed something into a position it shouldn't be in
do i need a press for some of the retainer clips ?
Yes, it would be very helpful.
Thanks
I have a 3 tab Black Washer I can't figure out where it goes
It measures 2.47 OD and 2.0 ID any idea where it goes?
Thank you
There are two 3 tab washers. One goes on the back of the case cover. The other goes between the forward clutch hub and the forward clutch housing.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I had a 4 tab tan one in where this one beloned between Forward Clutch hub and cover so I switched that our. Now I have that 4 tab tan one to find its place. It is 2.60 OD and 2.18 ID. Can you help me with this? Thank you
Can you post a picture to my Instagram? Are they round tabs or rectangular?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission half round tabs
@@CurmudgeonTransmission on the gear wear input shaft it fits with tabs in gear
Gud video sir vich cars useing this gearbox
Thanks. "A" body Chevy, Saturn and Pontiac's
Link to all the replacement/rebuild pack?
www.transtar1.com/
I waited 71 minutes to see how he would install the trans cooler line gaskets…
Just tap them in with a hammer till flush with the case.
Those cooler line seal are plug new
What the process @@CurmudgeonTransmission
@@DanielTremblay-oj7ym ruclips.net/video/7-5yGiJYXYM/видео.html
@@CurmudgeonTransmission tks but I was asking about the one in the transmission
The new seal bushing type have no oil hole in it
I was wondering if we must make a hole in it or when we install the line it will make one by the line push in
@@DanielTremblay-oj7ym Oh. When you install the line it will punch a hole in it.
Tom how ya doing new sub here ..was asking for the guru's help ..I see your qiiet the builder with your eyes closed .haaa.. so I picked up a tranny from junkyard for my 2006 HHR Chevy
I cracked open the case there & when I put it back happened to notice a small dowel like laying on the ground..(looks like a dowel from the battleship board game ) lol 😆 but look like bout 1inch & a half or so.. with a skinnier tit on one end & small hole on opposite end PLEASE could this have come from. Thr gear selector when I manually shifted the lever when the case was open PLEASE help me save this tranny ...WHERE MIGHT IT GO 🤔 👀 thanks for your time boss GOD BLESS 🙏. (Think at the beginning of your tear down video you stated something about it that (oh it comes out here.. but I couldn't see where .) Think that might be the part 🤔
Thanks for the sub. Post a picture like I commented on your other comment and I will look at it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission hey bud I posted a vid on my channel lol..only way I knew how... it was super late so please excuse me ...please let me know what ya think 🙏..God bless
Help ! I have the same issue OG SHAKER ! saw your video and pic ! WHERE DOES THAT PIN GO ?????