I had the same ccv delete, that little filter kept getting nasty and oil. Oil would blow all over the firewall etc and gradually everything would get all nasty. Now I just run a hose down over the frame, had a small port welded onto the straight pipe well past the turbo and connect it to the exhaust. No more mess
In the market of getting me another 3500 I'm taking your steps and advice on it once I get it. Can't wait to see yours when its complete, I'm watching everytime you drop a video....
That pretty much what i ended up doing, except i ran a hose to the frame instead of the little filter. I tried the whole gutting/hose to frame but didnt care for the mess it made in the driveway and the smell of the fumes. A new filter and hose to the frame seems to be working great
Your still going to get the code to service soon and you will smell oil in the cab when you run your heater. For that code not to come back the sensor at the ccv outlet must detect pressure changes created by the turbo.
Really should gut it and run a hose to the frame area. IMOP you made the factory setup worse because the hose to the turbo helps pull vacuum on a restricted area/ filter. now you have nothing assisting in pulling the blowby from the motor and that little filter is yet another restriction. I have run mine gutted with the hose to the frame and don't notice any fumes or mess. after 80K plus miles i think i have had maybe 10 drips from the hose. if you run the setup to the ground and its pushing a lot of oil you have bigger problems. Anyways i like the videos keep up the good work. nice to see someone putting good content out there. Now that your deleted you might do a video on valve lash adjustment as you should now close the clearances up a little.
This is definitely the proper way to do it, If you want a ccv delete, delete the filter inside as well. If your doing a ccv delete without gutting the filter your causing a restriction. Hose down to the frame like all the big rigs on the road
Thats what I did at first but that filter is good for maybe 10,000 after deleted. Home depot 5/8s black dishwasher house to the frame works and looks good.
If I delete my get and ccv on my Cummins 6.7 2017 Ram will it affect the engine as far as codes and will it work with my Bullydog gt tuner I’ve order the parts and have them but was told if I do this it will put my truck in limp mode is that true
Ive been waiting for this video ik I need to do mines my truck is about to roll over that 100k mark ... And idk if anyone else is having problems with the link but I am 🤷🏿♂️
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL . I have a 15 that i just did this to. I keep getting a crank case ventilation disconnected cel. I have done the following combos and have the same effect. Any further info would be great. 1. Plugged intake tube, little filter with 90* tubing for vent 2. Plugged intake tube, new ccv filter and 90* tube with little filter vent 3. Plugged intake tube, gutted ccv filter, 90* tube with little filter 4. Plugged intake tube, gutted ccv filter, 3/4” hose ram down frame rail All still trip the cel for ccv. Do i have to remove or keep the little flapper door inside ccv engine cover? Right before ccv sensor?
Run a heater hose to the axle or down below. The filter will clog over time and cause back pressure on seals less cost effective . Leaving the filter will cause wear and tear if you forget routine maintenance. 3rd gens didn’t have this issue as bad as fourth gen recommend gutting the filter and saving the money compared to resin stalling the filter causes back pressure from clogging and headaches.
I'm surprised you didn't get another Beans Diesel billet valve cover and delete all that, that thing was nice man. They're a bit pricey for me, I got one from Kingspeed and ran 2 -12 AN lines to a catch can
Shoot I'm pretty glad my 5.9 2 gen doesn't have ccv into the turbo.... Always life motivational to me.... Salute to everyone grind, Motivations, accomplishments , families , goals.....
Profile pic doesn’t show a 2022 , is this a 2022 or earlier model ? You mentioned the truck had a tune but from what I’ve found no tunes are available for the 2022’s yet ?
I gutted my filter a while back. I thought that was a must. I didn’t know you could leave the filter in. Will it damage or hurt the motor if the filter is gutted?
hi brother I see all your videos but I don't understand much English it would be burno with the substitutes in Spanish it would be wonderful and you will have many followers Thank you
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL I’m a new follower love your work brother! But why no catch can? Will you just replace the ccv filters as they wear out? I had a hard time getting those mailed to Cali.
Yes…why don’t you want to use a catch can? I just put one on my 2012, after watching your video on your catch can 😂. I looked at the crap on my turbo inlet and figured the catch can was a great idea. Why the change of heart?
I did the ccv delete on my 2016 Ram 2500 6.7 and I had no problems ! I also did the heater Grid delete with the Pusher plate . I'm in SC by the beach ⛱️ right below you Bro ! I'm getting I code now P2609 ? How can I disable this ? My truck is stock now . Next is turbo silence ring off ! Then I would like to get Banks Tuner Derringer I'm thinking 🤔
What up brother. Question on the CCV delete on your fourth GEN did you ever experience the smell of oil fumes within the cab after doing this mod. I have put this mod in place before with a catch can but was experiencing the fumes within the cab wondering how to prevent that. Thanks for taking the time reading and hopefully get some helpful information back.
Bro I dam near killed myself after I did this with the little elbow and filter on top!! Them fumes are relentless!!! Then I tried to use a 4ft hose and run it down the passenger wheel well and the intake still sucked the fumes in.......then I got a freakin 20ft long hose and ran that shit all the way to the back of the flat bed and fumes STILL get in the cab and they still smell outside the truck! So I also heard that there was a method to the madness about the reason. Behind how they have it vented thru the turbo........the oil fumes are supposed to lubricate the turbo???? How true is that???
Run the hose down the frame. It still smells but not as bad as it does when vented in the engine compartment. Both my 2500 and 3500 have it to the frame.
Yooo!! My guy! Another great video!!📹 Should you pull that plug to drain it at all? Or, how often should you change the breather filter? Maybe need to change the ccv filter more often now that the turbo isnt sucking the fumes out any more? I have been smelling what seems like gear oil in the cab. Wonder if any of this is the cause?
Been there, done that. Personally, I would never run this mod without a gutted filter. That filter is super dense, easily clogs up with oil and restricts air flow. Remember, you're no longer relying on the turbo to suck air through it. I initially installed an S&B mini filter with the 90 degree elbow. Looks way cool. But when I got tired of cleaning the filter and oil spatter all over the place I decided to ditch it and run a rubber hose down the firewall and plugged it into a hole on the outside of my frame rail...like so many others have done. Crankcase pressure is zero or close to it at all times...even less than what I was seeing with the S&B. But hey...to each his own. ;-) Oh...Semper Fi brother.
I did it like this on my 3rd gen and never had oil puking out the filter, in terms of crank pressure never had a issue. I've ran catch can, gutted filter before and hose down the frame and this is the best method I've found. If that method works for you good. These engines are positive vacuum they don't require anything to exhaust crank cases unlike a gas engine. In terms of airflow no airflow is needed by the engine it will exhuast as much out as it needs too.
I did this mod. But I ran a 3/4” hose to the frame. I put a new ccv filter in place. A lot of confusion on forms and RUclips of people gutting them and just putting a new filter in.
Why the change of view on gutting the ccv filter? I gutted mine because you said that was best when doing a ccv delete. I actually leaned how to gut it from your video. I'm not blaming you for anything. It didn't hurt anything by doing it and I don't have any leakage or seepage. Just curious why your view changed is all.
when i gutted my filter on my 3rd gen it made a mess everywhere after like 6 months, the ccv filter acts as a gasket as well so when u gut it, it makes the filter flimsy and can lead to oil residue on side of your valve cover. but if you didn't have any issues with doing it that way then thats awesome!!
i did the ccv delete on my truck and the fumes were too overwhelming. i did however gut the filter when i did the delete. i since put a replacement filter back in. do you think since i put a new filter in if i put the external vent on will i still get those fumes
I did a ccv delete on my 3 gen and a cat delete. No check engine light but it does keep coming up on my display. I have to reset it every 50 miles. It's really annoying 😒 I was told that I should be able to cut it off on the tune.
So I did the exact same thing on 2014 and I got a cel I have efi live tuning and my tuner wants me to pay him more to code out this ccv code any input?
so what's causing the check engine light to come on? is it because your plugging the turbo side of the hose? would maybe adding a another filter on the turbo side prevent from the engine check light from coming on? here in cali there are rumors of smog checks checking for mods the the ecu. would love to delete it until i need a smog check
There is so much miss information about modern diesel emissions systems, and your advice belongs near the top of that list. Because you can’t afford to properly maintain your diesel, and you won’t educate yourself about the emissions system; the rest of us have to breathe the pollution from your stinking diesel. I suggest you educate yourself about the emissions system prior to sharing your illegal advice. Just to clarify one point you made. The oil vapor going into your turbo doesn’t help or hurt your turbo. Turbos are indirectly damaged by the oil vapor. Oil vapor eventually makes its way into the DPF. Your DPF must regenerate more frequently in order to burn off the oil sludge. Since the turbo is driven by the hot exhaust gases. It’s the extreme heat from additional DPF regenerations that transfers into the turbo and all the other exhaust components. This eventually leads to higher repair cost. Your long term operating cost will be much less when the emissions system operates as it was designed. Frequent oil changes with the highest quality oil is critical for modern diesels. YourJake Leg repair is intended to deal with excessive blow-by that was caused by not changing cheap oil often enough. Learn about the difference between bore glazing and bore polishing. Learn about Post Injection. Learn about the crankcase ventilation system. Learn how the EGR system operates. Learn about how the dirty air filter increases blow-by at the piston rings. Learn about NOACK Volatility, HTHS, SAPS, and how soot clumps together. Amazon should be ashamed of themselves for selling this garbage. I guess they got a little bit of pay back. Mercedes sold Amazon 40,000 BlueTec diesel Sprinters that were the absolute worst vehicle for short stop and go deliveries. They were so unreliable that Amazon had to dump them, for the same basic reason you’re doing your Micky Mouse modification.
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL yes when doing it that way . I have installed 3 of that style ccv kit every single one i had the smell burnt oil in my cab. Ran a hose to a catch can . Problem went away. If you do your research there are alot of people that have the same problem when they installed that style of ccv delete.
Hey bro that dpf back pressure sensor that has those steel lines that’s up by the transmission when I do the weight reduction do I leave it plugged in and just remove the steel lines or do I unplug and remove the lines as well?? @EVERYTHANGDIESEL this is for the 3rd gen 6.7cummins btw ? 2008
Ran my 2016 this way after deleted for about 5months. Noticed bad oil smell/fumes in cab while stopped at idle. Knew it was ccv filter cause was last thing I did before noticed smell. Gutted ccv, removed elbow filter and just ran hose to a catch can and hose down under engine compartment on exit side. No more oil burning smell. Im assuming it just couldn't vent well enough w filter in there after delete. Just a heads up incase yourself or anyone else runs into this issue w the oil burning smell after ccv delete w filter still in
good stuff, yeah i did this setup before and never had that issue. for me personally this worked for me but there is different ways to skin a cat. good stuff man!
Bro I dam near killed myself after I did this with the little elbow and filter on top!! Them fumes are relentless!!! Then I tried to use a 4ft hose and run it down the passenger wheel well and the intake still sucked the fumes in.......then I got a freakin 20ft long hose and ran that shit all the way to the back of the flat bed and fumes STILL get in the cab and they still smell outside the truck! So I also heard that there was a method to the madness about the reason. Behind how they have it vented thru the turbo........the oil fumes are supposed to lubricate the turbo???? How true is that???
I just purchased my first cummins, also being a Laramie Longhorn Megacab 4 days ago like I said in a previous comment on an earlier video and so far it has been def and egr deleted. Also looks like it has the block heater delete as well
For what it’s worth just go with OEM off Amazon 70-80ish dollars for a filter isn’t that much especially if you’re doing it yourself I mean if you going to be that cheap just buy a gas truck don’t risk it on high dollar items I might could agree with y’all but don’t cheap out of those trucks and don’t go based only off reviews
I agree with what your saying but since this video has been made I still have the same filter in my truck and have had zero issues from it. Just saying. Don't believe the everything u read on Facebook or forums.
The theory I hear over and over is “they designed it that way for a reason” but I really wanna do this mod Also sometimes I get a exhaust odor at idle already in my cab with heater on. I don’t want fumes from the crankcase in here too. Would a draft tube underneath the cab work too? All the Cummins engine equipped semis I drive at work just have a tube running from the crankcase to the oil pan
There’s just no need for this. Just add a catch can. There’s no point in venting all of that to atmos and having the engine now under pressure instead of vacuum.
The only reason I have not done it is in my head I imagine that removing the vacuum effect from the turbo from the ccv filter makes me wonder if without the vacuum.. will the blow by get to the filter correctly and cycle through properly? Or will it lose vacuum because it is not connected and then the blow by just sits stagnant somewhere else or not making into the filter properly. Any thoughts on this? I’d love to do it if I can answer this question. Thanks!
I did this Sunday and Monday morning had code p04DB reset couple times light keeps coming on maybe not worth it seems like we might need the vacuum mines 2016 Cummins
So the options are to either save my wallet/bank account from the potential of shrinking thousands of dollars or the environment for which I’m consistently taxed day in and day out anytime I fill up, pay my registration or any other way the government thinks it can squeeze money out of me? Hmmmmm let me ponder that for awhile!! 🤔😳🤣✌🏽🇺🇸
I always find it amusing how people spend $50,000+ on a truck and then try to skimp on maintenance to try to save a buck, and often it costs more in the long run and creates more problems. I would not recommend this mod, or anything similar in fact. Look at reputable manufacturers of diesel performance products like Banks, ATS, etc. - are they developing and selling these kits??? Uhhhh....NO. Why do you think that is? Pro tip: Cummins engineers designed the CCV system the way they did for a reason, so maybe it's best not to try to "fix" it. There's a service reminder in the dash cluster for a reason, to remind the owner to perform required maintenance! Just change the CCV at the recommended interval and you shouldn't have any issues. Use a quality filter (Fleetguard is the brand of filter made by Cummins). It's not that expensive and anyone with a lick of mechanical aptitude can do it in under 30 minutes. If you keep your truck for 300,000 miles you'll change it what, 3 or 4 times? How many people keep their trucks that long anyway (besides me - my 2005 has 327,000)?? I have 125,000 miles on my 2017. I changed the CCV at about 75,000 miles (recommended interval was 67,500 IIRC). I did my diff oil at the same time and installed aftermarket covers as well. First trans service at 100,000 miles and installed a deep pan at that time. I tow a 13,000 lb. camper every year, spring through fall. I don't baby my truck, but I don't beat on it like an idiot either. I take care of it, it takes care of me. So far it's been 100% reliable - no issues. I'm an ASE Master Certified Diesel Technician with over 20 years of professional experience too, so I might know a thing or two about what I'm saying. Don't take my word for it though - check to see if any reputable aftermarket manufacturers sell them or recommend them and do some real research.
Clearly there's somebody your trying to impress but it won't be around here. #1 reason why big brand companies don't sell those kits is 1 because profit margins are little to none and 2 its technically not legal because that falls under the emissions system. Not to mention one of those companies u named sells turbos. So if a turbo goes out from that sludge and crap that's just another place where u can buy a replacement. Being 20year diesel tech I'm sure u know these things but don't want to say anything for some reason probably because your the one telling customers they need new turbos and up charging them on that. I've ran a ccv delete for 80k miles on my previous 6.7 cummins 3rd gen and had zero issues from it and it had 200k before I sold it. So it's hard to believe all this stuff you said. Sorry bud maybe somewhere else. Yes the filter is inexpensive and easy to change but not everyone has a stock turbo for that also when u take your intake off and see the mess it makes Why would u be fine with that??? Your logic isn't there
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL Bud, believe what you want. There's so many things wrong in your reply to me, I don't even know where to start, and I'm not even sure it would matter (I mean, did you just admit that putting a CCV delete on is a Federal crime?? Sure seems so). I have no one to impress nor any need to. You need to educate yourself. I'm also not trying to sell anyone anything - I work in a fleet shop currently and we have hundreds of Cummins engines in our fleet (6.7L and 15L). Based on the Amazon affiliate links and Amsoil link on your YT channel, you ARE trying to sell stuff. I have zero to gain here by commenting. I really don't know why people think they "know better" than the company that designed and built the engine. Cummins has a reputation for dependability, and if the current CCV system was killing turbos I can't imagine they'd continue to run that system as-is. They'd re-design it. Period. If people are experiencing turbo issues, I'll bet 99% of them are not related to a properly operating and serviced CCV system. Here's a link to some Cummins VGT info regarding failures: cdn.ymaws.com/diesel.org/resource/resmgr/turbocharger/cummins_turbo_technologies_t.pdf Maybe take a look at that. Or don't, I don't much care either way. You do you. If I had a shop of my own, or worked in a customer-pay shop/dealership, I'd tell them the same thing I said here, because I'd want the same thing for their truck as I do mine: reliability and longevity.
You are great. Your videos are giving me confidence to work on mine.
Then the motor blew? Any idea what caused the motor to go?
Has you pickup thrown a code after you deleted your CCV?
I ran a heater hose from crank case to frame and the floor is the catch floor.
Thats another common method too
I just deleted mine thanks to everythangdiesel
I had the same ccv delete, that little filter kept getting nasty and oil. Oil would blow all over the firewall etc and gradually everything would get all nasty. Now I just run a hose down over the frame, had a small port welded onto the straight pipe well past the turbo and connect it to the exhaust. No more mess
that sucks, i never had that issue before doing it this way. the hose method is just as good too!
Clear too see this man’s a mechanic not as easy as u claim
Thank you for your service bro
I appreciate that! thank you!
Thanks Cam!
In the market of getting me another 3500 I'm taking your steps and advice on it once I get it. Can't wait to see yours when its complete, I'm watching everytime you drop a video....
appreciate that man, it will be a solid build!!
Thank you Semper Fi
Thanks
No problem
That pretty much what i ended up doing, except i ran a hose to the frame instead of the little filter. I tried the whole gutting/hose to frame but didnt care for the mess it made in the driveway and the smell of the fumes. A new filter and hose to the frame seems to be working great
that works excellent too! when u gut the filter it causes the fumes to just run loose which is why i didnt do it this time but it acts as a baffle
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL yep, exactly ehy i switched back lol
S&B bro is a great air intake
yes they are!!
Your still going to get the code to service soon and you will smell oil in the cab when you run your heater. For that code not to come back the sensor at the ccv outlet must detect pressure changes created by the turbo.
Why didn't you install the catch can like you done in your old truck? Did you not like the catch can?
another one on my to do list
Easy job all day!
Got the braces off and the open bite fixed. Looks good.
thanks
Really should gut it and run a hose to the frame area. IMOP you made the factory setup worse because the hose to the turbo helps pull vacuum on a restricted area/ filter. now you have nothing assisting in pulling the blowby from the motor and that little filter is yet another restriction. I have run mine gutted with the hose to the frame and don't notice any fumes or mess. after 80K plus miles i think i have had maybe 10 drips from the hose. if you run the setup to the ground and its pushing a lot of oil you have bigger problems.
Anyways i like the videos keep up the good work. nice to see someone putting good content out there. Now that your deleted you might do a video on valve lash adjustment as you should now close the clearances up a little.
This is definitely the proper way to do it, If you want a ccv delete, delete the filter inside as well. If your doing a ccv delete without gutting the filter your causing a restriction. Hose down to the frame like all the big rigs on the road
Thats what I did at first but that filter is good for maybe 10,000 after deleted. Home depot 5/8s black dishwasher house to the frame works and looks good.
idk about 10k, i had one on my 3rd gen for 15-20k and never leaked or made a mess ever. but the hose method is just as good too!
If I delete my get and ccv on my Cummins 6.7 2017 Ram will it affect the engine as far as codes and will it work with my Bullydog gt tuner I’ve order the parts and have them but was told if I do this it will put my truck in limp mode is that true
Nice to see you still doing it!
Good video man! Digging the new rig!
thank you man!
I could read and write so I joined the Army 🤣 Spray cleaning the Turbo every 30k or so helps as well. Nice Video Devil Dawg 🤙🏼Send it!
Great vid and explanation. Happy New Year
Thank you! Happy new years as well sir!
Ive been waiting for this video ik I need to do mines my truck is about to roll over that 100k mark ... And idk if anyone else is having problems with the link but I am 🤷🏿♂️
its a excellent mod that is cheap and takes care of your turbo, i checked the links and they working fine for me.
You do great videos, just baught my first dodge ,2007 3500 crew with a 6.7.
thank you man and congrats on the truck!!
Could you put some kind of catch can in place of the breather?
Why didn’t you do the catch can and gut the filter?
Save your turbo…… blow your seals and gaskets hahaha love these channels, everybody’s got one!!! Too bad they give wrong information!!
😂 tf out of here lol
Why so defensive?? Buy a diesel truck and you’re EVERYTHING DIESEL !!!!! Hahaha sorry not buying it.
Couldn’t agree more anyone who has an actual clue and works on diesels knows this mod is an absolute joke and will do more harm than good
Nice one man ! I used the same setup. Works flawless 👍
thanks man and happy to hear that!
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL
. I have a 15 that i just did this to. I keep getting a crank case ventilation disconnected cel. I have done the following combos and have the same effect. Any further info would be great.
1. Plugged intake tube, little filter with 90* tubing for vent
2. Plugged intake tube, new ccv filter and 90* tube with little filter vent
3. Plugged intake tube, gutted ccv filter, 90* tube with little filter
4. Plugged intake tube, gutted ccv filter, 3/4” hose ram down frame rail
All still trip the cel for ccv. Do i have to remove or keep the little flapper door inside ccv engine cover? Right before ccv sensor?
Why did you not install a catch can like on your last ram
Didn't want to. No reason specifically
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL so can I install a catch can and replace the ccv filter also will the ccv filer get clogged up
Yea u can do that
Run a heater hose to the axle or down below. The filter will clog over time and cause back pressure on seals less cost effective . Leaving the filter will cause wear and tear if you forget routine maintenance. 3rd gens didn’t have this issue as bad as fourth gen recommend gutting the filter and saving the money compared to resin stalling the filter causes back pressure from clogging and headaches.
heater hose is just as good a method too, but i never had oil issues doing it this way.
SEMPER FI Brother
Gutted mine put a catch can inline..didn't want the oil dripping on the driveway
I'm surprised you didn't get another Beans Diesel billet valve cover and delete all that, that thing was nice man. They're a bit pricey for me, I got one from Kingspeed and ran 2 -12 AN lines to a catch can
oh trust me thats coming haha in time man!
So what about the sensor on the lower valve cover do you just leave it hooked up.
What’s next the catch can setup?
not sure if i will run a catch can setup. usually not needed unless for high hp setups
After the ccv mod how do I reset check engine light?
Do you need to reprogram anything if you delete ccv?
Any check engine light come on?
Shoot I'm pretty glad my 5.9 2 gen doesn't have ccv into the turbo.... Always life motivational to me.... Salute to everyone grind, Motivations, accomplishments , families , goals.....
Great tutorials Dude .
One question, what about the gunk that’s in the turbo ?
How do you get rid of it or is it necessary ?
What about a 1 year update? Any issues? Have mine ran same way
Installing this delete on my 2017 ram and how do I get rid of the check engine light, I am stock until Mr extended runs out in 3 years
Can you do this on a stock, non deleted truck?
Nvm 6:00 cleared it up 😂
I did this exact thing and I am getting really bad fumes smell in the cab. What can I do to get rid of the fumes smell?
run a rubber hose on the side of the cab frame.
Profile pic doesn’t show a 2022 , is this a 2022 or earlier model ? You mentioned the truck had a tune but from what I’ve found no tunes are available for the 2022’s yet ?
where’d you get the chrome oil cap
I gutted my filter a while back. I thought that was a must. I didn’t know you could leave the filter in. Will it damage or hurt the motor if the filter is gutted?
it wont hurt the motor if gutted just is a little more messier. if u gut the filter run a hose cause the little filter get dirty quickly.
Is this safe to do with the tyrannical gestapo style EPA?
What brand crankcase filter did you buy I'm Amazon
Links in the video description
hi brother I see all your videos but I don't understand much English it would be burno with the substitutes in Spanish it would be wonderful and you will have many followers Thank you
Man you gotta add a catch can with that!
I ran a catch can long time ago, I won't run one again unless I'm making like 800hp or more which I won't with this truck. Haha
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL I’m a new follower love your work brother! But why no catch can? Will you just replace the ccv filters as they wear out? I had a hard time getting those mailed to Cali.
Yes…why don’t you want to use a catch can? I just put one on my 2012, after watching your video on your catch can 😂. I looked at the crap on my turbo inlet and figured the catch can was a great idea. Why the change of heart?
I did the ccv delete on my 2016 Ram 2500 6.7 and I had no problems ! I also did the heater Grid delete with the Pusher plate . I'm in SC by the beach ⛱️ right below you Bro ! I'm getting I code now P2609 ? How can I disable this ? My truck is stock now . Next is turbo silence ring off ! Then I would like to get Banks Tuner Derringer I'm thinking 🤔
What up brother. Question on the CCV delete on your fourth GEN did you ever experience the smell of oil fumes within the cab after doing this mod. I have put this mod in place before with a catch can but was experiencing the fumes within the cab wondering how to prevent that. Thanks for taking the time reading and hopefully get some helpful information back.
Bro I dam near killed myself after I did this with the little elbow and filter on top!! Them fumes are relentless!!! Then I tried to use a 4ft hose and run it down the passenger wheel well and the intake still sucked the fumes in.......then I got a freakin 20ft long hose and ran that shit all the way to the back of the flat bed and fumes STILL get in the cab and they still smell outside the truck! So I also heard that there was a method to the madness about the reason. Behind how they have it vented thru the turbo........the oil fumes are supposed to lubricate the turbo???? How true is that???
Run the hose down the frame. It still smells but not as bad as it does when vented in the engine compartment. Both my 2500 and 3500 have it to the frame.
Yooo!! My guy! Another great video!!📹 Should you pull that plug to drain it at all? Or, how often should you change the breather filter? Maybe need to change the ccv filter more often now that the turbo isnt sucking the fumes out any more? I have been smelling what seems like gear oil in the cab. Wonder if any of this is the cause?
usually when u first notice it caked in oil but tbh i did it on my last truck and it never sprayed any oil at all.
I just bought a valve cover and ran the hose down; and no more CCV lol
nice!
You already did a grid heater delete on it?
No sir not yet
Once the ccv is deleted do you ever have to change the filter again?
hi I have a 2018 ram 3500 6.7... I put this filter on it but the check engine light came on... could someone tell me what I can do???
Can you tell me why my breather gets so much oil in it
Probably cause you need to change the ccv filter under the valve cover
Been there, done that. Personally, I would never run this mod without a gutted filter. That filter is super dense, easily clogs up with oil and restricts air flow. Remember, you're no longer relying on the turbo to suck air through it. I initially installed an S&B mini filter with the 90 degree elbow. Looks way cool. But when I got tired of cleaning the filter and oil spatter all over the place I decided to ditch it and run a rubber hose down the firewall and plugged it into a hole on the outside of my frame rail...like so many others have done. Crankcase pressure is zero or close to it at all times...even less than what I was seeing with the S&B. But hey...to each his own. ;-) Oh...Semper Fi brother.
I did it like this on my 3rd gen and never had oil puking out the filter, in terms of crank pressure never had a issue. I've ran catch can, gutted filter before and hose down the frame and this is the best method I've found. If that method works for you good. These engines are positive vacuum they don't require anything to exhaust crank cases unlike a gas engine. In terms of airflow no airflow is needed by the engine it will exhuast as much out as it needs too.
It's a reason why I left my ccv filter intact.
Cool, Happy Belated 248th!
I did this mod. But I ran a 3/4” hose to the frame. I put a new ccv filter in place. A lot of confusion on forms and RUclips of people gutting them and just putting a new filter in.
That works great too. I've gutted it in the past and it just makes a mess cause the cover doesn't make a good seal
Why the change of view on gutting the ccv filter? I gutted mine because you said that was best when doing a ccv delete. I actually leaned how to gut it from your video. I'm not blaming you for anything. It didn't hurt anything by doing it and I don't have any leakage or seepage. Just curious why your view changed is all.
Catch can setup looked clean too.. maybe later video or something.
when i gutted my filter on my 3rd gen it made a mess everywhere after like 6 months, the ccv filter acts as a gasket as well so when u gut it, it makes the filter flimsy and can lead to oil residue on side of your valve cover. but if you didn't have any issues with doing it that way then thats awesome!!
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL can you still use the catch can in this setup to minimize residual evaporation or is that overkill?
Yes u can if you would like.
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL think I might try it and see what it looks like and if it’s too much clutter.
Can u hook me up with the place for tunes I have efi tow tune at the moment and my service message is on at this moment lol
When I had my 2011 ccv deleted this way, I started leaking oil everywhere untill I gutted my filter.
never had a issue with mine leaking when i did it this way.
Hey brother, I wanna pull everything on my 2012, but I wanna leave my dpf. Will I see any gains in mileage? Appreciate the channel my man.
you cant delete your truck and leave the dpf on, the filter will clog eventually and create too much back pressure.
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL well, off it all goes I guess.
Do you get a check engine light doing this? I want to do it today just like you did
i talked about that in the video lol and no i didn;t
CIA NEXT?🔥
perhaps haha
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL I’ve been wanting one , just for more turbo noise lol. I took out the baffle already but want more !
i did the ccv delete on my truck and the fumes were too overwhelming. i did however gut the filter when i did the delete. i since put a replacement filter back in. do you think since i put a new filter in if i put the external vent on will i still get those fumes
I did the delete and ended up getting a bad smell in the truck even ram a hose down to the frame still get the smell but not as bad
if u dont gut the ccv filter u wont get the smell
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL didn’t gut mine and it’s still strong
I did a ccv delete on my 3 gen and a cat delete. No check engine light but it does keep coming up on my display. I have to reset it every 50 miles. It's really annoying 😒 I was told that I should be able to cut it off on the tune.
yea i had same problem on my 3rd gen and i just started ignoring it haha
So I did the exact same thing on 2014 and I got a cel I have efi live tuning and my tuner wants me to pay him more to code out this ccv code any input?
Get a new tuner, most tuners already have it disabled so the cel doesn't come on.
Since you did that ccv mod would you change the crank filter again and if so how many more miles would you wait?
so what's causing the check engine light to come on? is it because your plugging the turbo side of the hose? would maybe adding a another filter on the turbo side prevent from the engine check light from coming on? here in cali there are rumors of smog checks checking for mods the the ecu. would love to delete it until i need a smog check
When the truck doesn't sense the negative pressure it can possibly turn the light on
I have a 3rd gen like the one you used to have...do you like the 4th gen better?
3rd gen has a sweet spot with me but i do like the 4th gens!
Hows that crankcase filter doing? Thinking about getting one before i go buy it at an autoparts store for $150 or so
Doing fine. Works just like it's suppose to
Another thing i wanted to ask does the fuel rail plug throw a code when doing that mod?
No sir it doesn't
There is so much miss information about modern diesel emissions systems, and your advice belongs near the top of that list. Because you can’t afford to properly maintain your diesel, and you won’t educate yourself about the emissions system; the rest of us have to breathe the pollution from your stinking diesel. I suggest you educate yourself about the emissions system prior to sharing your illegal advice.
Just to clarify one point you made. The oil vapor going into your turbo doesn’t help or hurt your turbo. Turbos are indirectly damaged by the oil vapor. Oil vapor eventually makes its way into the DPF. Your DPF must regenerate more frequently in order to burn off the oil sludge. Since the turbo is driven by the hot exhaust gases. It’s the extreme heat from additional DPF regenerations that transfers into the turbo and all the other exhaust components. This eventually leads to higher repair cost. Your long term operating cost will be much less when the emissions system operates as it was designed. Frequent oil changes with the highest quality oil is critical for modern diesels. YourJake Leg repair is intended to deal with excessive blow-by that was caused by not changing cheap oil often enough.
Learn about the difference between bore glazing and bore polishing. Learn about Post Injection. Learn about the crankcase ventilation system. Learn how the EGR system operates. Learn about how the dirty air filter increases blow-by at the piston rings. Learn about NOACK Volatility, HTHS, SAPS, and how soot clumps together.
Amazon should be ashamed of themselves for selling this garbage. I guess they got a little bit of pay back. Mercedes sold Amazon 40,000 BlueTec diesel Sprinters that were the absolute worst vehicle for short stop and go deliveries. They were so unreliable that Amazon had to dump them, for the same basic reason you’re doing your Micky Mouse modification.
IF YOU'LL LIKE TO HEAR THE TURBO WHISTLE!! REMOVE THAT BIG ASS AIR BOX!!
AND INSTALL A CONE AIR FILTER!! IT WILL GIVE YOU COUPLE OF HP TOO!!
I’m looking into buying a 5th gen. where can I find a performance type intake manifold?
ebay is a good option.
I would just change the ccv filter yearly for $35
Absolutely
Lol it’s pulling vacuum leave it alone
Those style ccv delete will allow oil fumes to enter the inside of your cab and it smells horrible. Run a hose to a catch can is a better design
not when doing this way.
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL yes when doing it that way . I have installed 3 of that style ccv kit every single one i had the smell burnt oil in my cab. Ran a hose to a catch can . Problem went away. If you do your research there are alot of people that have the same problem when they installed that style of ccv delete.
Hey bro that dpf back pressure sensor that has those steel lines that’s up by the transmission when I do the weight reduction do I leave it plugged in and just remove the steel lines or do I unplug and remove the lines as well?? @EVERYTHANGDIESEL this is for the 3rd gen 6.7cummins btw ? 2008
everything after your down pipe can be removed.
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL so I leave the sensor unplugged?
@@chris24v literally when your removing your exhaust nothing stays connected
Ran my 2016 this way after deleted for about 5months. Noticed bad oil smell/fumes in cab while stopped at idle. Knew it was ccv filter cause was last thing I did before noticed smell. Gutted ccv, removed elbow filter and just ran hose to a catch can and hose down under engine compartment on exit side. No more oil burning smell. Im assuming it just couldn't vent well enough w filter in there after delete. Just a heads up incase yourself or anyone else runs into this issue w the oil burning smell after ccv delete w filter still in
good stuff, yeah i did this setup before and never had that issue. for me personally this worked for me but there is different ways to skin a cat. good stuff man!
Does you check engine light come on, sine your gutted the CCV?
Bro I dam near killed myself after I did this with the little elbow and filter on top!! Them fumes are relentless!!! Then I tried to use a 4ft hose and run it down the passenger wheel well and the intake still sucked the fumes in.......then I got a freakin 20ft long hose and ran that shit all the way to the back of the flat bed and fumes STILL get in the cab and they still smell outside the truck! So I also heard that there was a method to the madness about the reason. Behind how they have it vented thru the turbo........the oil fumes are supposed to lubricate the turbo???? How true is that???
Bang that fliter out you'll have some snacks for later. Lol
facts lmaoo
I just purchased my first cummins, also being a Laramie Longhorn Megacab 4 days ago like I said in a previous comment on an earlier video and so far it has been def and egr deleted. Also looks like it has the block heater delete as well
hell yeah man!
For what it’s worth just go with OEM off Amazon 70-80ish dollars for a filter isn’t that much especially if you’re doing it yourself I mean if you going to be that cheap just buy a gas truck don’t risk it on high dollar items I might could agree with y’all but don’t cheap out of those trucks and don’t go based only off reviews
I agree with what your saying but since this video has been made I still have the same filter in my truck and have had zero issues from it. Just saying. Don't believe the everything u read on Facebook or forums.
The theory I hear over and over is “they designed it that way for a reason” but I really wanna do this mod
Also sometimes I get a exhaust odor at idle already in my cab with heater on. I don’t want fumes from the crankcase in here too. Would a draft tube underneath the cab work too?
All the Cummins engine equipped semis I drive at work just have a tube running from the crankcase to the oil pan
i never seen a draft tune, but i would assume it should. and if you do it this way you wont get a smell. i never had.
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL *draft TUBE* my bad.
Anyways I just ran mine down to the frame
There’s just no need for this. Just add a catch can. There’s no point in venting all of that to atmos and having the engine now under pressure instead of vacuum.
The only reason I have not done it is in my head I imagine that removing the vacuum effect from the turbo from the ccv filter makes me wonder if without the vacuum.. will the blow by get to the filter correctly and cycle through properly? Or will it lose vacuum because it is not connected and then the blow by just sits stagnant somewhere else or not making into the filter properly. Any thoughts on this? I’d love to do it if I can answer this question. Thanks!
over thinking i think haha. newton law, past of least resistance, and in this case its where the breather filter is at.
I did this Sunday and Monday morning had code p04DB reset couple times light keeps coming on maybe not worth it seems like we might need the vacuum mines 2016 Cummins
So the options are to either save my wallet/bank account from the potential of shrinking thousands of dollars or the environment for which I’m consistently taxed day in and day out anytime I fill up, pay my registration or any other way the government thinks it can squeeze money out of me?
Hmmmmm let me ponder that for awhile!! 🤔😳🤣✌🏽🇺🇸
I always find it amusing how people spend $50,000+ on a truck and then try to skimp on maintenance to try to save a buck, and often it costs more in the long run and creates more problems. I would not recommend this mod, or anything similar in fact. Look at reputable manufacturers of diesel performance products like Banks, ATS, etc. - are they developing and selling these kits??? Uhhhh....NO. Why do you think that is?
Pro tip: Cummins engineers designed the CCV system the way they did for a reason, so maybe it's best not to try to "fix" it. There's a service reminder in the dash cluster for a reason, to remind the owner to perform required maintenance! Just change the CCV at the recommended interval and you shouldn't have any issues. Use a quality filter (Fleetguard is the brand of filter made by Cummins). It's not that expensive and anyone with a lick of mechanical aptitude can do it in under 30 minutes. If you keep your truck for 300,000 miles you'll change it what, 3 or 4 times? How many people keep their trucks that long anyway (besides me - my 2005 has 327,000)??
I have 125,000 miles on my 2017. I changed the CCV at about 75,000 miles (recommended interval was 67,500 IIRC). I did my diff oil at the same time and installed aftermarket covers as well. First trans service at 100,000 miles and installed a deep pan at that time. I tow a 13,000 lb. camper every year, spring through fall. I don't baby my truck, but I don't beat on it like an idiot either. I take care of it, it takes care of me. So far it's been 100% reliable - no issues. I'm an ASE Master Certified Diesel Technician with over 20 years of professional experience too, so I might know a thing or two about what I'm saying. Don't take my word for it though - check to see if any reputable aftermarket manufacturers sell them or recommend them and do some real research.
Clearly there's somebody your trying to impress but it won't be around here. #1 reason why big brand companies don't sell those kits is 1 because profit margins are little to none and 2 its technically not legal because that falls under the emissions system. Not to mention one of those companies u named sells turbos. So if a turbo goes out from that sludge and crap that's just another place where u can buy a replacement. Being 20year diesel tech I'm sure u know these things but don't want to say anything for some reason probably because your the one telling customers they need new turbos and up charging them on that. I've ran a ccv delete for 80k miles on my previous 6.7 cummins 3rd gen and had zero issues from it and it had 200k before I sold it. So it's hard to believe all this stuff you said. Sorry bud maybe somewhere else. Yes the filter is inexpensive and easy to change but not everyone has a stock turbo for that also when u take your intake off and see the mess it makes Why would u be fine with that??? Your logic isn't there
@@EVERYTHANGDIESEL Bud, believe what you want. There's so many things wrong in your reply to me, I don't even know where to start, and I'm not even sure it would matter (I mean, did you just admit that putting a CCV delete on is a Federal crime?? Sure seems so). I have no one to impress nor any need to. You need to educate yourself. I'm also not trying to sell anyone anything - I work in a fleet shop currently and we have hundreds of Cummins engines in our fleet (6.7L and 15L). Based on the Amazon affiliate links and Amsoil link on your YT channel, you ARE trying to sell stuff. I have zero to gain here by commenting.
I really don't know why people think they "know better" than the company that designed and built the engine. Cummins has a reputation for dependability, and if the current CCV system was killing turbos I can't imagine they'd continue to run that system as-is. They'd re-design it. Period. If people are experiencing turbo issues, I'll bet 99% of them are not related to a properly operating and serviced CCV system. Here's a link to some Cummins VGT info regarding failures: cdn.ymaws.com/diesel.org/resource/resmgr/turbocharger/cummins_turbo_technologies_t.pdf
Maybe take a look at that. Or don't, I don't much care either way. You do you.
If I had a shop of my own, or worked in a customer-pay shop/dealership, I'd tell them the same thing I said here, because I'd want the same thing for their truck as I do mine: reliability and longevity.