Oh man. That is The Job. I just replaced entire rear suspension (trailing arms, upper link, lower two links, struts).... Cut my links as well. I better rebuild engine..... two days. 70% of the job is installing it back. I wish i video it. Thank you for shearing you heroic moments.
Okay, I survived this job. Took 5 hours; rented a lift. I basically followed this video, although I can offer some observations: 1) Driver's side is more difficult - exhaust pipe in the way. 2) I used a 4.5" angle grinder with cutting wheel, but due to clearance, only used it to make 1 out of the 4 cuts to the bolts. 3) I used a Sawzall to make the remaining three cuts. 4) The bolts are hardened. A standard Sawzall blade will not work. You need a carbide blade, or diamond grit blade. 5) After I cut through the bolts and pulled the arms down, I used a Mapp gas torch to melt and pick the rubber out of the bushings, and then pliers to wiggle the inner bushing out. 6) I used a mini, air powered, reciprocating saw from Harbor Freight to make two slices of the outer bushings; faster than using a hacksaw blade by hand. 7) I used a cold chisel to peel the outer bushing out of the arm; this was difficult because the outer bushing is so thin. 8) After cleaning up the hole in the arms with emery cloth, I used a similar bolt/washer/socket setup to install the new bushings. Thank God they went in straight. However, I had to use a ball joint tool (looked like a large C clamp) with an impact wrench (took a 2nd set of hands) to get the bushings the last one-third of the way in; the bolts only cut it so far. Hope this helps anyone who decides to tackle this difficult job. Thanks to Mr. Butler for posting this video, it gave me the inspiration to do it ... that and the fact that my wife's car needs new tires very soon, and thanks to this repair, the car will be able to be properly aligned with bolts that are no longer seized.
love the bolt trick to install the bushings just about to do this on my wifes car and was planning on renting a bushing tool but will try with the bolt first.
@@mr.coffee540 And ... job was a bitch, but I completed it successfully. Worst thing about removing the bushings was that the metal sleeve is very thin, which made sawing and chiseling on it a very difficult and delicate operation.
Way to make it work! You may use the same kit from HF that is used for wheel bearings, for this. I think I'm about to do this, so I will let you know! hahah
I have a pile of rust on my floor right now from replacing my subframe. watched this to figure out how the camber bolts worked. wish you showed that a little bit more
Thanks! The whole project took 2 evenings . Cutting through the inner race and bolt with the cut-off wheel took about 5 minutes once I got the hang of it. I had trouble with the wheel bucking after switching from a 3 inch to a 4 inch wheel, so I suggest using only a 4 inch wheel. Cutting through the outer race with a hack saw blade only took a few minutes. I had my best results when finishing the cut holding the blade by hand. The outer race is not that hard. The center punch knocked it loose with a few blows. Good luck!
William Butler Thanks man! I'm replacing the whole link and the cam bolts while I'm at it. Do you think that it will be hard for me to "eyeball" the alignment until I can immediately drive it to a shop to do an official alignment? If I mark it before take out the old bolt will it line up similarly?
At that absurd low RPM, there is no risk of an exploding disk causing injury.... Those disks are designed for a 10000 RPM air drill or die grinder... but I would still wear a full face shield....
@@billeb420 Thanks for the promt response. Your vid was very informative. My suby 2008 outback 167,000 Mi. I just did rear struts and end links which I cut out just because it's easier. I'm trying to decide which bushings I can do without access to a lift. I can puchase that arm with that bushing instaled for about $30. One question on the other end is the bushing in the trailing arm? Do you have any other subaru bushing vids Thanks
So what were the symptoms when driving before you replaced these? I'm thinking about replacing all of the bushings I can get to on the rear to fix a steering rack shake issue at high speeds after doing EVERYTHING to the front already.
Just ordered 2 complete arms with bushings already installed. Do u happen to remember what the part #s were for the nut/bolt towards the outside of vehicle?
Oh man. That is The Job. I just replaced entire rear suspension (trailing arms, upper link, lower two links, struts).... Cut my links as well. I better rebuild engine..... two days. 70% of the job is installing it back. I wish i video it.
Thank you for shearing you heroic moments.
Okay, I survived this job. Took 5 hours; rented a lift. I basically followed this video, although I can offer some observations: 1) Driver's side is more difficult - exhaust pipe in the way. 2) I used a 4.5" angle grinder with cutting wheel, but due to clearance, only used it to make 1 out of the 4 cuts to the bolts. 3) I used a Sawzall to make the remaining three cuts. 4) The bolts are hardened. A standard Sawzall blade will not work. You need a carbide blade, or diamond grit blade. 5) After I cut through the bolts and pulled the arms down, I used a Mapp gas torch to melt and pick the rubber out of the bushings, and then pliers to wiggle the inner bushing out. 6) I used a mini, air powered, reciprocating saw from Harbor Freight to make two slices of the outer bushings; faster than using a hacksaw blade by hand. 7) I used a cold chisel to peel the outer bushing out of the arm; this was difficult because the outer bushing is so thin. 8) After cleaning up the hole in the arms with emery cloth, I used a similar bolt/washer/socket setup to install the new bushings. Thank God they went in straight. However, I had to use a ball joint tool (looked like a large C clamp) with an impact wrench (took a 2nd set of hands) to get the bushings the last one-third of the way in; the bolts only cut it so far. Hope this helps anyone who decides to tackle this difficult job. Thanks to Mr. Butler for posting this video, it gave me the inspiration to do it ... that and the fact that my wife's car needs new tires very soon, and thanks to this repair, the car will be able to be properly aligned with bolts that are no longer seized.
Cheers Will. Gonna be starting my bushings this weekend all four for me plus the further four in front.
This should save me a fortune in garage costs.
Wrenching on the Subaru with classic rock in the background. That's how I do it.
Top tier job. Not for the inexperienced.
Pink Floyd in the background deserves a +1
Love the Pink Floyd song in the background.
love the bolt trick to install the bushings just about to do this on my wifes car and was planning on renting a bushing tool but will try with the bolt first.
Very helpful. I had to cut mine off too. Needed to make sure the opening was oval just like yours. Thankfully it is! Lol Had me concerned.
Not the easiest/proper way to do it, but definitely gotta give you props for making it work.
It's still pretty clean under there. Would expect this kind of trouble on my Impreza where it rains shards of rust if you hit anything with hammer.
I am going to be doing this job on the wife's 2004 Outback tomorrow ... I will post an update
And?
@@mr.coffee540 And ... job was a bitch, but I completed it successfully. Worst thing about removing the bushings was that the metal sleeve is very thin, which made sawing and chiseling on it a very difficult and delicate operation.
Way to make it work!
You may use the same kit from HF that is used for wheel bearings, for this.
I think I'm about to do this, so I will let you know! hahah
My negative camber is very bad on my 2002 Subaru legacy wagon. Winter here so it will go to my mechanic.
Which tool are you using with the circular saw blade?
@@christophermonson3214 a corded drill
One of my control arms is busted and is making my tires bold I assume that I can realine the back until I have enough time to fix it
So the legacy has rear adjustment for camber? The alignment place said the back suspension was not adjustable on my 02 outback.
Jacana Productions, Only the alignment is adjustable.
You fit a camber bolt to the top strut hole on the knuckle to adjust camber as comes standard on the front
I have a pile of rust on my floor right now from replacing my subframe. watched this to figure out how the camber bolts worked. wish you showed that a little bit more
Great video! How long did the whole project take you? Also, how long did it take to cut through each bushing and chisel out the race?
Thanks! The whole project took 2 evenings . Cutting through the inner race and bolt with the cut-off wheel took about 5 minutes once I got the hang of it. I had trouble with the wheel bucking after switching from a 3 inch to a 4 inch wheel, so I suggest using only a 4 inch wheel. Cutting through the outer race with a hack saw blade only took a few minutes. I had my best results when finishing the cut holding the blade by hand. The outer race is not that hard. The center punch knocked it loose with a few blows. Good luck!
William Butler Thanks man! I'm replacing the whole link and the cam bolts while I'm at it. Do you think that it will be hard for me to "eyeball" the alignment until I can immediately drive it to a shop to do an official alignment? If I mark it before take out the old bolt will it line up similarly?
@@detroitcity8193 Take a photo of each bolt before you cut them out, and install the new bolts in the same position.
What camera did you use?
Lock in bolts are crazy 😂😂😂
Dude! great video, but please, next time use protection for the disk. It can crack in your face
At that absurd low RPM, there is no risk of an exploding disk causing injury.... Those disks are designed for a 10000 RPM air drill or die grinder... but I would still wear a full face shield....
What was the reason for not removing the whole arm?
I figured that it would be frozen
@@billeb420 Thanks for the promt response. Your vid was very informative. My suby 2008 outback 167,000 Mi. I just did rear struts and end links which I cut out just because it's easier. I'm trying to decide which bushings I can do without access to a lift. I can puchase that arm with that bushing instaled for about $30. One question on the other end is the bushing in the trailing arm? Do you have any other subaru bushing vids Thanks
@@martinsmythe3414 Thanks for watching. That's the only bushing video I have.
Thanks for the video....I was gonna shit can my car but that doesn't look too bad to do.
Did you do the job?
Definitely not easy, but do-able. Not worth junking an otherwise good car over.
So what were the symptoms when driving before you replaced these? I'm thinking about replacing all of the bushings I can get to on the rear to fix a steering rack shake issue at high speeds after doing EVERYTHING to the front already.
Brandon Allen On my '99, my only symptom was that the wheel was out of alignment and the bolt would not turn properly to align it.
@@FCFordLord That is the same reason I have to do this job on my wife's 2004 Outback
why didnt you just loosen the other side of it ? i mean it would have taken you much less time to replace the bushing if the whole arm was out
And just to be sure the cam bolt is a 22m?
It's been awhile, I don't remember
Yes, the cam bolt is 22 mm; the nut on the other end is 17 mm.
No thanks Marcus from HP Logics ruined that style of cutting near my face, its Sawzall now thanks :D
Just ordered 2 complete arms with bushings already installed. Do u happen to remember what the part #s were for the nut/bolt towards the outside of vehicle?
No I don't.
Crazy why anyone would purchase the genuine Subaru parts, our genuine parts failed after 74,000 ks.
good! use facial protection dude!!! accident can destroy your face!
Cheers Will. Gonna be starting my bushings this weekend all four for me plus the further four in front.
This should save me a fortune in garage costs.