I remember watching you work with Tommy Walsh when I was a kid and loved the show . Glad to see you still doing the woodwork. All so Just wondering if you still talk to him if so how is he
Hi Aaron, Thanks for your message and sorry for late reply. Spoke to him about a year ago and he was fine, we've not had a proper catch up for sometime due to work commitments. Cheers, Alan.
Funny enough, all the way from Canada, I have the exact same chair with a broken leg! However, it's the back leg that's broken at the other end, about 6 inches from the floor end of the leg. That part is quite thin and curved. The dowel would have to be about 8 inches long. Is it safe to use only Cascamite to glue the two pieces together without the dowel?
Dear Alan, I was wondering how a dowel could be somehow introduced between the two parts. My other question is with the hole made with your 3D bit. Could you not have followed with a straight drill bit of same diameter afterwards rather than trim dowel??? I can't wait to see the finished article. Kind regards.
Hi, The biggest consideration when carrying out this kind of repair is what I can do to meet the customer's spend budget and the integrity of the finished chair. I would have liked to make a new Cabriole leg but the cost of such an exercise would outweigh the value of the chair and its accompanying set. I use a 3D drill bit for this restoration because it does not carry a "Camming" effect that you would encounter when using an Auger or twist drill, to explain this further, when a cut has to be made through 2 sets of end grain from the chair rail tenons and also a cut almost vertically down end grain all at the same time there is a big risk of timber trapping around the outside of the cut and in the blink of an eye this will force out a tenon or worse spelch out the leg face. To then run an Auger bit with no side cut down the hole made from the 3D bit would create another "Camming" effect which without doubt destroy the junction of joints, it is a much safer operation to alter the dowel and allow the PU glue to take up the small voids. Great question from you.
@@alanherd2468 Dear Alan, Thank you very much for your courteous reply & your detailed explanation. I guess just like most folks we clearly do not think of these technical issues a drill bit might encounter whilst trying to drill through various woods in different grain orientations. This only comes from your many years of experience which I am sure you might have got caught yourself & made a mental note never to repeat said mistake. But just like you've said in the past, one doesn't learn without making a few mistakes from time to time. I will try to remember this in future so as to be caught unaware. Many thanks for enlightening me; one learns every day. Kind regards.
@@llessibm Dear Sir, Thank you very much for your comment. Indeed there is nothing more enlightening than seeing an expert doing what he/she does best followed by explanations. This is how one learns in my humble opinion. Kind regards.
Done this type of work for many years. I would have done the same repair. I would have used a metal rod instead of wood. A smaller diameter metal rod will have the same or greater lateral strength than wooden one. Epoxy is the glue of choice to set it in once your ready. I like to use drill bits that have a long rod welded to them. The weld ground off and smooth. 2 ways they can be used. First, as you did in the video. Watch carefully from ALL sides and above. Going slowly. Making sure of the direction that are going. Second, they can be set up on a long board. With 2 blocks screwed to it. With a hole of the proper size in each. This board can then be clamped to the workpiece. The blocks have to be sized for each repair, each individual situation. Time consuming but necessary. This set up, allows the long bit to be controlled as it drills. I preferred this method of course. But it's not always possible. Hope this is some what clear and helpful. Please don't misunderstand my intentions!!!! I'm just suggesting a variation in the concept. I'm NOT criticizing your work in the least!. You did a very fine repair on that leg. As good as is possible under that circumstances. Cheers!
Indeed, I have embraced this approach in recent years, on repairs and new work. I typically use 3or 4 6mm stainless thread rods with epoxy. No reports of failure to date.
@@gav2759 I wonder if that would complicate any future needed repairs as wood can be cut/drilled through more easily., may be a reason to stick with wood dowels.
@@DaedalusDesign It is a a question of what repair we regard as appropriate for a given situation. That judgement is at least as important as the execution of the repair it's self. I would certainly advocate traditional methods as the first option and as you suggest there is nothing worse to encounter down the line, than nails or screws in a joint where they were never meant to be. However, when for instance it is a leg, arm, or other member which has been subjected to some irresistible force and has given way, we might be able to innovate and make a viable repair rather than go the wooden dowel route leaving it permanently compromised. The other option is to replace a part which could prove prohibitively complex and expensive. It comes back to judgement.
What a great pair of videos on this repair. Sensible, eloquent, & down to earth workmanship. I salute you sir.
"You learn much faster by making mistakes" very true
When I use a dowel I flute them a few times, it allows glue to flow and reduce hydraulic pressure. Just run it thru a saw blade
Where is part three?
Great video. Shame you don’t seem to make them anymore. Thanks for sharing. 🇦🇺👴🏻
what has happed to part three ,you said was to follow, ????
I remember watching you work with Tommy Walsh when I was a kid and loved the show . Glad to see you still doing the woodwork. All so Just wondering if you still talk to him if so how is he
Hi Aaron,
Thanks for your message and sorry for late reply.
Spoke to him about a year ago and he was fine, we've not had a proper catch up for sometime due to work commitments.
Cheers, Alan.
Why didn’t you use epoxy glue?
If you happen to see this, the 3D drill bit you mentioned, is that a Forstner drill bit or some other type? Thanks.
Dzięki. Mądry film.
Zdrowia życzę
Funny enough, all the way from Canada, I have the exact same chair with a broken leg! However, it's the back leg that's broken at the other end, about 6 inches from the floor end of the leg. That part is quite thin and curved. The dowel would have to be about 8 inches long. Is it safe to use only Cascamite to glue the two pieces together without the dowel?
Dear Alan,
I was wondering how a dowel could be somehow introduced between the two parts. My other question is with the hole made with your 3D bit. Could you not have followed with a straight drill bit of same diameter afterwards rather than trim dowel??? I can't wait to see the finished article. Kind regards.
Hi, The biggest consideration when carrying out this kind of repair is what I can do to meet the customer's spend budget and the integrity of the finished chair. I would have liked to make a new Cabriole leg but the cost of such an exercise would outweigh the value of the chair and its accompanying set. I use a 3D drill bit for this restoration because it does not carry a "Camming" effect that you would encounter when using an Auger or twist drill, to explain this further, when a cut has to be made through 2 sets of end grain from the chair rail tenons and also a cut almost vertically down end grain all at the same time there is a big risk of timber trapping around the outside of the cut and in the blink of an eye this will force out a tenon or worse spelch out the leg face. To then run an Auger bit with no side cut down the hole made from the 3D bit would create another "Camming" effect which without doubt destroy the junction of joints, it is a much safer operation to alter the dowel and allow the PU glue to take up the small voids. Great question from you.
@@alanherd2468
Dear Alan,
Thank you very much for your courteous reply & your detailed explanation. I guess just like most folks we clearly do not think of these technical issues a drill bit might encounter whilst trying to drill through various woods in different grain orientations. This only comes from your many years of experience which I am sure you might have got caught yourself & made a mental note never to repeat said mistake. But just like you've said in the past, one doesn't learn without making a few mistakes from time to time. I will try to remember this in future so as to be caught unaware. Many thanks for enlightening me; one learns every day. Kind regards.
Beat me to it, had the same question and as you said, the answer was enlightening
@@llessibm Dear Sir,
Thank you very much for your comment. Indeed there is nothing more enlightening than seeing an expert doing what he/she does best followed by explanations. This is how one learns in my humble opinion. Kind regards.
Hi, where would I get a copy of your series The Restoration Man DVD from??!! I've searched everywhere!! Cheers
Sorry for late reply, I will look in to it for you.
Cheers, Alan.
@@alanherd2468 Thank you!
Would two vertices lasers help with getting the right direction?
LOL, its the Quatermass Experiment, not Quatermass Experience !
Whoops, well spotted, hadn't realised I'd said that.
Cheers, Alan.
Done this type of work for many years. I would have done the same repair. I would have used a metal rod instead of wood. A smaller diameter metal rod will have the same or greater lateral strength than wooden one. Epoxy is the glue of choice to set it in once your ready. I like to use drill bits that have a long rod welded to them. The weld ground off and smooth. 2 ways they can be used. First, as you did in the video. Watch carefully from ALL sides and above. Going slowly. Making sure of the direction that are going. Second, they can be set up on a long board. With 2 blocks screwed to it. With a hole of the proper size in each. This board can then be clamped to the workpiece. The blocks have to be sized for each repair, each individual situation. Time consuming but necessary. This set up, allows the long bit to be controlled as it drills. I preferred this method of course. But it's not always possible. Hope this is some what clear and helpful. Please don't misunderstand my intentions!!!! I'm just suggesting a variation in the concept. I'm NOT criticizing your work in the least!. You did a very fine repair on that leg. As good as is possible under that circumstances. Cheers!
Indeed, I have embraced this approach in recent years, on repairs and new work. I typically use 3or 4 6mm stainless thread rods with epoxy. No reports of failure to date.
@@gav2759 I wonder if that would complicate any future needed repairs as wood can be cut/drilled through more easily., may be a reason to stick with wood dowels.
@@DaedalusDesign It is a a question of what repair we regard as appropriate for a given situation. That judgement is at least as important as the execution of the repair it's self. I would certainly advocate traditional methods as the first option and as you suggest there is nothing worse to encounter down the line, than nails or screws in a joint where they were never meant to be. However, when for instance it is a leg, arm, or other member which has been subjected to some irresistible force and has given way, we might be able to innovate and make a viable repair rather than go the wooden dowel route leaving it permanently compromised. The other option is to replace a part which could prove prohibitively complex and expensive. It comes back to judgement.