2:42 Thank you for showing your discharge next to the house! I might look into doing something like this here in maine. Currently there's one of those freeze guard pieces installed at the transition. The problem is, most of the time the water discharges from the freeze guard opening, where it pools right next to the house and goes back down into the sump pit. The 4" corrugated pipe used to discharge underground, and I thought maybe that was restricting it.. So I put in a 4" pop up emitter, which unfortunately didn't fix the backing up issue. I know pop up emitters might not be the best idea in freezing climated, but I thought it was worth a shot.. Sorry for rambling, I'm just not sure what to do, who to call next. To make matters worse, it discharges under my deck, which only has about 1' of crawling around space underneath. edit: in another comment I think I saw you say you replace this with a rubber coupling after inspection, I think that may give me the pressure I need to keep things flowing and not discharge next to the house..
As a young home owner who has a lot to update on my 1953 home and does most everything myself I genuinely appreciate this video. Currently our pump pumps into our sewer line (which I think is out of code?) however our “waste water” on our water bill is usually double than the usage itself during the wet months. I have a nice sized ditch I’ve been planning on routing the sump pump to. Thankyou for the great detail. I live in central IN and have wondered about what would happen if it freezes. Thanks again! I’m sure I’ll be back later this summer 👍🏼
Same here and it's out of code. They had it routed outside originally but when they finished the basement they piped into sanitary sewer. When we have heavy rains it can't send the water out due to backup on the street! Good luck with your project
Keep it tied into it. Who cares play the ignorant card if anything gets inspected. You aren't a licensed plumber right? Then what do you know. Have 2 discharges one exterior one interior run interior 99% of the time and if the sewer ever backs up you can quickly switch the discharge route through a shutoff valve. Hopefully that doesn't happen but don't put it outside. Also how can they charge you for waste water disposal? How would they have any idea how much is going into the sanitary? It's based off your water bill usage if anything. They don't have a meter showing waste water going through that doesn't make sense. You shouldn't be paying anymore then your usage=discharge. You aren't using water when discharging with the sump pump. There is no way they can determine each home for discharge besides annual usage.
The overflow protector in my system literally saved my basement! I had a huge leak that we think was from the water-powered backup sump pump. The pop-up drainage emitter in the corner of the yard was completely covered with grass and mud and couldn't actually "pop up." All the effluent ended up being dumped into the side yard...which is definitely better than the basement getting wet. 😂
You need a new pop-up emitter, a better pop-up emitter. ruclips.net/p/PLjFCqaZ4v1BXt8vDpjMmvJXxMn8Tgw0wA&si=3l0BPgIbv2KFgGjT 4 in Pop-Up Emitter for Corrugated & Turf Restrictor Plate frenchdrainman.com/product/4-in-corrugated-pop-up-emitter/
Great video. Did the same to my sump pump. But that the day light end I used a 4in T fitting . The bottom is open, lined with landscape fabric and crushed stone. This has reduced the muddy spot on my lawn.
I thought we don't put pvc in the ground-per all of your other videos? Getting ready to trench my sump discharge to the ditch and was going to use the high octane for the underground run. Thoughts?
I live in Clinton township Michigan and just bought a house. The sump has no drain. And there is a pool around the pipe coming out from the house. Thanks for the advice!
Thanks a lot for your video! Could you please explain in more detail how the connection with the 1-1/2" pipe above the ground is made? What are the parts? Also, does the underground line need to be sloped? Finally, I don't have a ditch I could run it to. Could I take it out of the ground far enough from the house and then make a bend pointing back to the ground? Thanks again.
Great video thanks for the clear explanation. On the subject, do you recommend running a check valve inline after your sump pump in cold climate regions? I installed a Wayne sump pump and followed the instructions which included to add an inline check valve. Low and behold when it got cold this winter the 1.5” pvc discharge pipe has frozen which resulted in the sump pump running constantly - luckily I got it before a fire started or the breaker blew, but the pump was hot to the touch. My thinking is without the check valve the line will be less likely To freeze. When I contacted Wayne they said they recommend this to prevent all the water flowing back into the sump pit and causing the pump to cycle on again... My sump pit is a fairly large capacity (over 2’ in diameter) a so I’m thinking this isn’t as much as an issue as the line freezing. I should mention the original sump pump did not have a check valve....
Do you have any videos showing how the drain is connected to the storm drain? I want to dig up my sump drain and add a bigger one, but i dont know what to expect on the other side. Im in Macomb County near you.
@FRENCHDRAINMAN thank you so much. I know my sump drains to an undersized 1.5" pvc. Should I assume the storm drain is cored to that little pipe or could I get lucky to see a bigger hole already cored there? It's in my backyard and I wanted to upsize it if possible.
Man after my heart. You literally hit every point in order that I myself make to homeowners on this subject here in Nodak. Love the business name. I do basement drain tile systems myself.
One other question, the sump pump water discharge line coming out of the house appears to have DWV 90 degree fittings on there and I know they are not supposed to be used under pressure (I have read maximum of 5 psi). I have no idea what kind of pressure can be built by a sump pump (likely not more than 15-25psi but that is just a guess), but should PVC Sch 40 fittings that are rated for pressure be used on the line instead? I can see it not being an issue once it dumps in to the 4" line since there will never be any pressure there.
Yes, I saw the power of my sump pump and it shot the water out from the house. They are intense. Use sch40 pressure treated - which will have a smaller internal diameter - for a sump pump. My relief valve also points horizontal, not down, because if it's necessary it will shoot the water a good 3' from the opening instead of shooting into the ground - making it a little harder to get into the foundation.
What is the connection that goes "up and down like this" :-) Inspector just noted that the closed pipe system I just installed should be "open" and I see the grate type overflows but I see you have a "super duper" overflow in the form of a tee and a 90. Just wondering what the slip joint connection is :-) thanks FDM
Great information. Thanks! So in summary, don't use Sch 40 instead of the thin wall (ASTM D 2729 Sewer and Drain Pipe), use 4" not 3", and use pipe with a bell end instead of a coupler. So why did the original one fail? Was it because it was 3" or because it was thin wall D 2729 Sewer and Drain Pipe?
How do you prevent the discharge line from FREEZING ? That's always been my issue... the 1.5 inch line simply freezes and will notdischarge 75 feet away from the house. It works great otherwise but the pesky winter months.
I looked at specs the Cresline is .075" thick, same as bell end Charlotte sewer line, do you use it awell? Also I'm SE Iowa how deep is that shallow install, and grade drop, I have roughly 140 foot to get to the ditch here and two 90's degree to get around gas and well line. I'll have to hand dig to find their depth, and travel over or under as needed. Thanks
@FRENCHDRAINMAN Thanks here a short vid of my project. In it I forgot to mention that I have a water softener that drains into the sump. The little bit of salt is probably why it doesn't freeze. I wish you were in my area I'd just let you do it. ruclips.net/video/m1qphEwxSlk/видео.htmlsi=QZOORq826n3ultPE
Hey frenchdrainman great video! what exactly is the design where the sump line comes out of the house and enters the Tee? What pieces are involved so that the PVC can move up and down? Is that just a reducing bushing, meaning the top of the tee is 'open'? If its a reducing bushing is it a 2" so that the 1 1/2" line has room to move? I'm currently re-doing my sump drain line(old glazed clay tile full of roots/mud)and I like the idea of expansion/contraction.
It all depends on what the grade is like on the yard and where I'm taking the sump pump discharge line because if it's going to daylight, it's going to be shallow. There's no way around it. It has to be.
@@FRENCHDRAINMAN I was going to go with 1.5” to 3” coupling reducer, then 3” to 4” coupling reducer, then 4” to 6” coupling reducer for a 6” catch basin drain.
everyone who has a sump system in the cold needs to see this. I did mine myself but i run my drainage line over ground into a pond on my property so i don't have to worry so much about ice. but i'm tempted to bury it now that i've seen this. i'm in NY btw
@M L very true witch is why i have my dranage line a 4 inch pipe and moving water doesn't freeze so even if it freezes a little bit it is never enough to block that 4 inch diameter.
PVC glue is basically a solvent. Both pieces dissolve partly (aka melt) and then solidify together as one piece of solid PVC. Don't make more holes with screws. I would maybe use some flex rubber aka Fernco flexible rubber couplings if the pipe was really long to allow flexibility.
Hello folks... a Canadian here having difficulty with the name of the parts especially the Tee used. We are still in lockdown here in Ontario and so I cannot go into Homedepot (or any store) to look for the parts required. Trying to find and order the parts online is extremely frustrating and people answering the phones are not much help unless I have the part number or the sku# then I end up with the wrong part with no returns until the lockdown is over. The only difference is I have a 2 inch pipe coming from the sump pump.
A storm sewer drain (on your property or a neighboring property )is always the best option, excavating to a ditch or curbside is second best..(if proper pitch can be maintained..pop up drain solutions present their own problems in areas of snow and ice..that would be a last resort for me.
I need help and was wondering if any of you had some creative ideas. I bought a house with 2 water drainage systems running over the side walk, 1 from the gutters and another from a sump pump (first time homebuyer, didn't know shit at the time and still learning). I now know thats illegal and a safety hazard to others, so is there a quick fix solution to ensure water doesn't make it to the side walk without me redoing the whole system?
Hi Rob. If there was no inspection required would you still use PVC schedule 40 ? Would you design something similar to your downpipe adapter with the clean out as the freeze overflow ? 🇨🇦 Thanks
You have to get a schedule 40.. if you want more surface area for the glue and primer to do its thing you need to use the recommended coupler not a drain waste and vent coupler
The larger the diameter of a pipe, the stronger it becomes, even if it's made of the same material and the wall thickness is the same. Not to mention that if there is any settling of the ground and a little bit of a belly forms, you can recover with a 4-inch pipe where, with a 3-inch pipe, there's no recovery.
![BACKYARD SUMP PUMP For Yard Drainage Part 4 [ How to Figure Depth & Height of Sump Pump System ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qBE2ANQcAvo/mqdefault.jpg)
![BACKYARD SUMP PUMP For Yard Drainage Part 4 [ How to Figure Depth & Height of Sump Pump System ]](/img/tr.png)
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ruclips.net/video/20Msql_O5a4/видео.html
Where can I get that cressline PVC? thanks for the video👍🏽
2:42 Thank you for showing your discharge next to the house! I might look into doing something like this here in maine. Currently there's one of those freeze guard pieces installed at the transition. The problem is, most of the time the water discharges from the freeze guard opening, where it pools right next to the house and goes back down into the sump pit. The 4" corrugated pipe used to discharge underground, and I thought maybe that was restricting it.. So I put in a 4" pop up emitter, which unfortunately didn't fix the backing up issue. I know pop up emitters might not be the best idea in freezing climated, but I thought it was worth a shot.. Sorry for rambling, I'm just not sure what to do, who to call next. To make matters worse, it discharges under my deck, which only has about 1' of crawling around space underneath.
edit: in another comment I think I saw you say you replace this with a rubber coupling after inspection, I think that may give me the pressure I need to keep things flowing and not discharge next to the house..
👍
As a young home owner who has a lot to update on my 1953 home and does most everything myself I genuinely appreciate this video. Currently our pump pumps into our sewer line (which I think is out of code?) however our “waste water” on our water bill is usually double than the usage itself during the wet months. I have a nice sized ditch I’ve been planning on routing the sump pump to. Thankyou for the great detail. I live in central IN and have wondered about what would happen if it freezes.
Thanks again! I’m sure I’ll be back later this summer 👍🏼
Same here and it's out of code. They had it routed outside originally but when they finished the basement they piped into sanitary sewer. When we have heavy rains it can't send the water out due to backup on the street! Good luck with your project
Keep it tied into it. Who cares play the ignorant card if anything gets inspected. You aren't a licensed plumber right? Then what do you know. Have 2 discharges one exterior one interior run interior 99% of the time and if the sewer ever backs up you can quickly switch the discharge route through a shutoff valve. Hopefully that doesn't happen but don't put it outside. Also how can they charge you for waste water disposal? How would they have any idea how much is going into the sanitary? It's based off your water bill usage if anything. They don't have a meter showing waste water going through that doesn't make sense. You shouldn't be paying anymore then your usage=discharge. You aren't using water when discharging with the sump pump. There is no way they can determine each home for discharge besides annual usage.
The overflow protector in my system literally saved my basement! I had a huge leak that we think was from the water-powered backup sump pump. The pop-up drainage emitter in the corner of the yard was completely covered with grass and mud and couldn't actually "pop up." All the effluent ended up being dumped into the side yard...which is definitely better than the basement getting wet. 😂
You need a new pop-up emitter, a better pop-up emitter.
ruclips.net/p/PLjFCqaZ4v1BXt8vDpjMmvJXxMn8Tgw0wA&si=3l0BPgIbv2KFgGjT
4 in Pop-Up Emitter for Corrugated & Turf Restrictor Plate
frenchdrainman.com/product/4-in-corrugated-pop-up-emitter/
@@FRENCHDRAINMAN Next house for sure 🤘
I pulled some grass & laid river rock around my current emitter to keep it exposed
I live here in Clinton township, I'll keep you guys in mind for any future work I might need! great video fellas 🤙
Great video. Did the same to my sump pump. But that the day light end I used a 4in T fitting . The bottom is open, lined with landscape fabric and crushed stone. This has reduced the muddy spot on my lawn.
I thought we don't put pvc in the ground-per all of your other videos? Getting ready to trench my sump discharge to the ditch and was going to use the high octane for the underground run. Thoughts?
The inspector demanded it. It's his world and we are all living in it 🤷🏻♂️
Great info! I live in Michigan and I'm in the process of planning to have my sump pump discharged through a drain pipe.
I live in Clinton township Michigan and just bought a house. The sump has no drain. And there is a pool around the pipe coming out from the house. Thanks for the advice!
Thanks a lot for your video! Could you please explain in more detail how the connection with the 1-1/2" pipe above the ground is made? What are the parts? Also, does the underground line need to be sloped? Finally, I don't have a ditch I could run it to. Could I take it out of the ground far enough from the house and then make a bend pointing back to the ground? Thanks again.
It looks like he used a bushing 4" to 2"
Great video thanks for the clear explanation.
On the subject, do you recommend running a check valve inline after your sump pump in cold climate regions? I installed a Wayne sump pump and followed the instructions which included to add an inline check valve. Low and behold when it got cold this winter the 1.5” pvc discharge pipe has frozen which resulted in the sump pump running constantly - luckily I got it before a fire started or the breaker blew, but the pump was hot to the touch. My thinking is without the check valve the line will be less likely
To freeze.
When I contacted Wayne they said they recommend this to prevent all the water flowing back into the sump pit and causing the pump to cycle on again... My sump pit is a fairly large capacity (over 2’ in diameter) a so I’m thinking this isn’t as much as an issue as the line freezing. I should mention the original sump pump did not have a check valve....
frenchdrainman.com/product/4-in-hinged-back-flow-preventer/
Do you have any videos showing how the drain is connected to the storm drain? I want to dig up my sump drain and add a bigger one, but i dont know what to expect on the other side. Im in Macomb County near you.
ruclips.net/video/kj0fJtvWnuY/видео.htmlsi=OgkfqpXml2p-X2Yb
@FRENCHDRAINMAN thank you so much. I know my sump drains to an undersized 1.5" pvc. Should I assume the storm drain is cored to that little pipe or could I get lucky to see a bigger hole already cored there? It's in my backyard and I wanted to upsize it if possible.
Man after my heart. You literally hit every point in order that I myself make to homeowners on this subject here in Nodak. Love the business name. I do basement drain tile systems myself.
Great for the video . what about 4" corrugated flex pipe, can it withstand the freezing temp? Thanks from Canada.
Yes a good virgin material works our High Octane Armor Pipe in now in Canada.
Had no idea you work in my neck of the woods. That’s good to know. Great videos
Thank you for watching
One other question, the sump pump water discharge line coming out of the house appears to have DWV 90 degree fittings on there and I know they are not supposed to be used under pressure (I have read maximum of 5 psi). I have no idea what kind of pressure can be built by a sump pump (likely not more than 15-25psi but that is just a guess), but should PVC Sch 40 fittings that are rated for pressure be used on the line instead? I can see it not being an issue once it dumps in to the 4" line since there will never be any pressure there.
Yes, I saw the power of my sump pump and it shot the water out from the house. They are intense. Use sch40 pressure treated - which will have a smaller internal diameter - for a sump pump. My relief valve also points horizontal, not down, because if it's necessary it will shoot the water a good 3' from the opening instead of shooting into the ground - making it a little harder to get into the foundation.
What is the connection that goes "up and down like this" :-) Inspector just noted that the closed pipe system I just installed should be "open" and I see the grate type overflows but I see you have a "super duper" overflow in the form of a tee and a 90. Just wondering what the slip joint connection is :-) thanks FDM
I second this question.
It's called a Bushing. It probably a 4 inch to 2 inch.
Great information. Thanks! So in summary, don't use Sch 40 instead of the thin wall (ASTM D 2729 Sewer and Drain Pipe), use 4" not 3", and use pipe with a bell end instead of a coupler. So why did the original one fail? Was it because it was 3" or because it was thin wall D 2729 Sewer and Drain Pipe?
How do you prevent the discharge line from FREEZING ? That's always been my issue... the 1.5 inch line simply freezes and will notdischarge 75 feet away from the house. It works great otherwise but the pesky winter months.
You need 4" diameter pipe. It displaces so much more area, it can't freeze up.
It has to be sloped all the way to the end. If there's any kind of valley in the tube it will collect water and it will freeze.
I looked at specs the Cresline is .075" thick, same as bell end Charlotte sewer line, do you use it awell?
Also I'm SE Iowa how deep is that shallow install, and grade drop, I have roughly 140 foot to get to the ditch here and two 90's degree to get around gas and well line.
I'll have to hand dig to find their depth, and travel over or under as needed.
Thanks
You need to use only 45° And keep them at least 2ft apart. 42" depth to get out of the frost otherwise you should use rubber couplings.
@FRENCHDRAINMAN Thanks here a short vid of my project. In it I forgot to mention that I have a water softener that drains into the sump. The little bit of salt is probably why it doesn't freeze.
I wish you were in my area I'd just let you do it.
ruclips.net/video/m1qphEwxSlk/видео.htmlsi=QZOORq826n3ultPE
What does the 1.5" line coming out of the house go into - is that a 2" bushing glued in the 4" pvc?
Yes
Love the outside sump pump discharge pipe for the north GREAT 👍 👌 👏 idea
Code inspector requested. It's his world and we are all just living in it. I did use rubber couplings once it was inspected. We have our tricks.
@@FRENCHDRAINMANcan you explain what this means?
Hey frenchdrainman great video! what exactly is the design where the sump line comes out of the house and enters the Tee? What pieces are involved so that the PVC can move up and down? Is that just a reducing bushing, meaning the top of the tee is 'open'? If its a reducing bushing is it a 2" so that the 1 1/2" line has room to move? I'm currently re-doing my sump drain line(old glazed clay tile full of roots/mud)and I like the idea of expansion/contraction.
Yes
was wondering this too
Is this a 1-1/2 into a 4” T? Or a 2” into a 4” T? If it’s a 2” are your normally using 2” out of sump pumps?
frenchdrainman.com/product/fdm-exterior-sump-pump-discharge-line-freeze-protection/
Where do you buy the crestline schedule 40!?
www.cresline.com/pvc-pressure-pipe-3
Thanks but this isn’t an easy order for a small job at home. I guess I’m stuck with the Hone Depot solution. .
If only I could hire you! What kind of contractor am I trying to get. A plumber turned me down.
Yard Drainage contractor near me"
Would it be bad if the PVC took a 45 degree turn in the ground?
I will do a video on PVC and bends allowed.
Do you have a minimum depth you like to place your discharge lines at?
It all depends on what the grade is like on the yard and where I'm taking the sump pump discharge line because if it's going to daylight, it's going to be shallow. There's no way around it. It has to be.
Trying to figure out what to connect to the discharge end of a 1.5 inch pvc pipe connecting to a sump pump.
Code is 3" pipe minimum. If it's flat 4" minimum
@@FRENCHDRAINMAN I was going to go with 1.5” to 3” coupling reducer, then 3” to 4” coupling reducer, then 4” to 6” coupling reducer for a 6” catch basin drain.
Thanks a lot for this, such a detailed and helpful video
everyone who has a sump system in the cold needs to see this. I did mine myself but i run my drainage line over ground into a pond on my property so i don't have to worry so much about ice. but i'm tempted to bury it now that i've seen this. i'm in NY btw
@M L very true witch is why i have my dranage line a 4 inch pipe and moving water doesn't freeze so even if it freezes a little bit it is never enough to block that 4 inch diameter.
Great info! Do you recommend taping and/or screwing the pipes together in addition to gluing them?
PVC glue is basically a solvent. Both pieces dissolve partly (aka melt) and then solidify together as one piece of solid PVC. Don't make more holes with screws. I would maybe use some
flex rubber aka Fernco flexible rubber couplings if the pipe was really long to allow flexibility.
Absolutely not
Hello folks... a Canadian here having difficulty with the name of the parts especially the Tee used. We are still in lockdown here in Ontario and so I cannot go into Homedepot (or any store) to look for the parts required. Trying to find and order the parts online is extremely
frustrating and people answering the phones are not much help unless I have the part number or the sku# then I end up with the wrong part with no returns until the lockdown is over.
The only difference is I have a 2 inch pipe coming from the sump
pump.
Best French Drain and Yard Drainage Contractor
frenchdrainman.com/
What do you do at the END of the line?
A storm sewer drain (on your property or a neighboring property )is always the best option, excavating to a ditch or curbside is second best..(if proper pitch can be maintained..pop up drain solutions present their own problems in areas of snow and ice..that would be a last resort for me.
ruclips.net/video/hywnU4VM3MI/видео.htmlsi=nsm-pyYK2h7joySg
I need help and was wondering if any of you had some creative ideas. I bought a house with 2 water drainage systems running over the side walk, 1 from the gutters and another from a sump pump (first time homebuyer, didn't know shit at the time and still learning). I now know thats illegal and a safety hazard to others, so is there a quick fix solution to ensure water doesn't make it to the side walk without me redoing the whole system?
Hi Rob. If there was no inspection required would you still use PVC schedule 40 ? Would you design something similar to your downpipe adapter with the clean out as the freeze overflow ? 🇨🇦 Thanks
Dualwall
ruclips.net/video/LMNrmZpUeGg/видео.html
For my house should I be using 4" or 6" for an active sump pump and washer machine? I'm in the cold north east...thank you
If you have slope 4" No Slope 6"
@@FRENCHDRAINMAN Thanks for the help,I laid 130' of "belled" schedule 40...seems to drain nice.🙂🤠
What is the name of the piece between the Tee and the discharge, it looks like the flange for a toilet bowl?
I think you are asking about the 4 inch pipe to 2 inch pipe bushing.
Do you have the ability to camera a existing system and repair as nessairy
Yes. We have a great camera for videos that we run through drainage systems.
Would a plumbing supply store have it like Vic Bonds?
Yes a place like Ferguson Enterprises
You have to get a schedule 40.. if you want more surface area for the glue and primer to do its thing you need to use the recommended coupler not a drain waste and vent coupler
Haven't watched it all but if your sump is 1.5" why go 4"?
The larger the diameter of a pipe, the stronger it becomes, even if it's made of the same material and the wall thickness is the same. Not to mention that if there is any settling of the ground and a little bit of a belly forms, you can recover with a 4-inch pipe where, with a 3-inch pipe, there's no recovery.
Thank you.@@FRENCHDRAINMAN
how much does something like this cost?
Great job thanks 🇨🇦👍
Schedule 40 is too brittle. There is flexible thin wall and rigid. The flexible three ply, is for above frost.
Michael O'Hara the building codes and Departments Require it to be Schedule 40 PVC. Thank you for commenting
Seems to me the discharge line should leave the sump pump underground and avoid that mess outside the exterior wall.
Watch "Sump Pump Discharge Line Failure and Fix" on RUclips
ruclips.net/video/6YpZ6wrtzKU/видео.html
I live in Michigan
Man has PVC gone up in price!
ruclips.net/p/PLjFCqaZ4v1BX_ZMbxsYVB6CNFoeAmuPxX&si=LyIMEFSpeY6luxg8
Wow. Here at 18 n hayes
👍
❤️❤️👋👋👋
Where is the how to part you didn't show anything nor really show how it failed holding on your sign for almost 25% of the video waste of time.
How much does something like this cost?
A lot of variables come in to play, so it is not a one price fits all. Not even close.