My stepfather (who actually raised me as his own son) was a carpenter for 40 years, until his untimely death at 57 (in may of 2019), and he taught me almost word for word what you’ve laid out in this video.
The blood of the covenant is thicker than the water of the womb. My step-dad is my dad. I call him my dad. If your dad raised you as his own, he's your dad. Especially the person who knew you were worthwhile, who decided to teach you what he knew.
I’ve been a finish carpenter for 22 years and these are great tips. My best trick is measuring to the middle on a long baseboard. Pull 100 inches off the right side and make a mark, then measure to your mark from the left side. Add 100 to the number and you have a perfect measurement. Also burning an inch. When you need to cut from the back of a board for an out side to outside you can make your mark on the 1” mark to measure accurately. You will have to add one inch to the measurement since you burned an inch. Also back burning. If you want to install a screw without splitting the wood, you can set your driver on reverse and burn the screw into the wood. It will act as a pre drill. ✌️🤠
Everything is fantastic and I am so honoured to take away these tips. One I disagree with though is the marking with a knife. Yes it is more accurate but I think if diligence, competency and accuracy is taken seriously with the measuring device there shouldn’t be a issue … wicked video man👍🙂
I would add to this Jimmy DiResta's "If it looks straight it is straight". I once built a small oak wall cabinet that had a raised panel door above a drawer and the grain on the drawer front and the face frame behind it made it look crooked. I had to pull out my tape to prove to several people that it was in fact straight, but had to admit that it didn't look straight. I wound-up tilting the drawer front just a tad and it looked perfect, even though I knew better. If it looks straight, it is straight. Excellent video. Scott
Met a guy who did home reno’s when I renovated my old house.I helped out,as he was on his own.I learned more from him then I ever learned from my school tech shop all those years ago.These tips do help for do it yourselfers like me.👍
When you talked about marking cuts with a utility knife, you marked a cut for the top of a kitchen unit, but what you did, without mentioning, is mark which way you wanted to cut the angle at the end of the board, which I thought was a brilliant tip in itself.
Pro Finish Carpenter here. One tip I would add for baseboard is go to Home Depot or Lowe's spend $10 on one of their 3 small pry bar sets. Nothing screams butcher quite like gaped copes. It takes all of 10 seconds to get in behind a piece of base with a mini pry bar and pull the cope tight but many pro's leave it to painter's to caulk. Tip 2. If you find yourself more often than not saying "The painters will get it." Stop what you're doing, get online and look for a framing job. You're not cut out to be a finish carpenter. Tip 3. Learn a tape measure as a second language. There's really no such thing as "34 and an 1/8 inch" more times than not it's going to be "34 and and 1/8 inch light or heavy" depending on where it falls on the tape. These few tips I've given can mean the difference between naming your price and being the first guy laid off during lean times.
These are very true! I use my trim bar all the time. I never nail the base that comes under the cope on the bottom until after the cope is nailed to it. Lets you get easier movement with the trim bar. Never heard "light" and "heavy" but I use "plus" for eighth, "plus plus" for thirty second and minus for an eighth behind. Say you butt into a wall and the measurement is 54 7/16, I'd just call that 54 1/2 minus and move on. Helps keep me from cluttering up my board with an excess of numbers.
@@Polecat_FTP Sounds like we use different language but understand the same concept. I don't actually write out the entire words light and heavy though. It's just the numbers then a little L or H beside it followed by nothing for a flush cut or LC, RC for cope or LO, RO for cuts that have miters. If it's 34 1/8 heavy with a left cope and right outside miter my cut sheet would say 34 1/8 H LC RO. It let's me measure out an entire house of base and know what every piece is without having to rely on memory.
@@Polecat_FTP I've trained a lot of new guys and always say that it doesn't matter how you do something as long as it looks good and doesn't take 3 times as long to do something. Some guys have the my way is the only way attitude and it's actually pretty dumb. Everyone sees things and works through problems differently. The one thing I will say for the light/heavy system is it's actually allowing me to get into 64's of an inch territory without having to actually memorize that entire system. You know if we do have that 34 1/8 H what it's really saying is 34 9/64 then if it's closer to the middle or more to 34 3/16 but not quite, 34 3/16 L is right around 34 11/64. Memorizing the 64ths system by number would be a nightmare though and not that useful since tapes only go into 16ths. I guess the L/H system is just a cheat sheet for that. Quick visual reference with really accurate results. Anyway, that's why I like it.
I am so appreciative of the videos, many tips, tricks and opininons that come from respectable, hands on knowledge. Clear precise and to the point! keep it up!
I normally make furniture, but I do trim carpentry in my own home sometimes. Something that holds true from furniture making it that the less you rely on measuring the better. As you said, mark cuts with a knife, holding boards up to other boards. Reference off of existing materials and cuts as much as possible and you'll get much tighter fits than marking using a tape measure and a pencil. This is especially important for stain grade trim, where you can't just caulk and paint over gaps.
republishing my prior comment. Tip #4 - Mark Cuts with a Knife: excellent advice - based on a woodworker's use of a striker or marking knife. My preferred method for general marking (not fine finish/trim) is to use a spring punch, couple pumps and I know to use the center of the divot for chalkline / straightedge/etc. Also, because its right there in my bag its how I mark for screws/create a small pilot - and it can often substitute for pre-drilling on some screws. Works on any just about any material - metal studs, wood, Hardi, pvc, conduit, coil, vents, masonry . . .
Im a young finish Carpenter (im always looking to learn more) **** Anybody looking for good info that will help you not look like a schmuck on a jobsite... you're in the right place. As soon as I saw the "home-improvement" style back drop i said " oh yeah this guy knows what's up" All tricks I use daily.
I suggest people make a reveal block. I made a couple 16” long reveal blocks. I rabbit a 3/16 groove along the block and then do the same on each end. That way you can quickly mark reveals for your trim, or you can simply hold the block and butt the trim to it, rather than marking off multiple spots on a door jamb or window. I always mark the corners, so my hands are free to nail the miters, but then quickly use the block to nail off the rest of the reveal. Also a angle finder can be your best friend! Often people only cut 45 degrees when doing base on an outside corner. But very rarely is the corner perfect. It could be 92 degrees, so you would cut your base on a 46 degree rather than a 45 to get the perfect outside miter for that particular wall
I'm a finish carpenter. If whatever I'm working on requires a 3/16 reveal, and it's going to be painted, I set my combination square so I can pencil a line 3/16th's line completely on all the reveal edges. If I'm nailing on a stain finish, I set my combo square to 3/16" and use it as an reveal guide at each nail.
re tip 1. The way I check a miter saw's square cut is to cut two 1x4's four side down at the saw's 45 deg horizontal stop. Once cut, put the cut joints together to make a right or 90 degree angle. Compare that angle to your 16 x 24 inch framing square.
The only tip I don’t like is the last one. Instead of doing that… lower the blade onto the piece you want cut and see where the teeth hit and adjust accordingly
one of my least favourite parts of the job, going back and forth all the time to the saw and working overhead or on your knees with a very "floppy" material is very tedious and frankly annoying.
i always measure out a room at a time, then go cut it all at once. Of course some recuts will be necessary, but I find it goes quicker with less physical exertion- that many less times getting up and down off the floor, trips to the saw, etc. also have a kneeling pad or knee pads.
@@JimTom. and obviously this method involves a cut list, write down measurements, outside to outside, outside to inside, or outside to inside butt or cope scribe, etc
@@chrisburns5691 id rather stand at the saw with a list than go back and forth. i guess its the re-cutting thats the hassle, especially with fragile coped miters
My stepfather (who actually raised me as his own son) was a carpenter for 40 years, until his untimely death at 57 (in may of 2019), and he taught me almost word for word what you’ve laid out in this video.
The blood of the covenant is thicker than the water of the womb. My step-dad is my dad. I call him my dad. If your dad raised you as his own, he's your dad. Especially the person who knew you were worthwhile, who decided to teach you what he knew.
I’ve been a finish carpenter for 22 years and these are great tips. My best trick is measuring to the middle on a long baseboard. Pull 100 inches off the right side and make a mark, then measure to your mark from the left side. Add 100 to the number and you have a perfect measurement. Also burning an inch. When you need to cut from the back of a board for an out side to outside you can make your mark on the 1” mark to measure accurately. You will have to add one inch to the measurement since you burned an inch. Also back burning. If you want to install a screw without splitting the wood, you can set your driver on reverse and burn the screw into the wood. It will act as a pre drill. ✌️🤠
Great tips
Guys ~ Had to pull and republish this video. I forgot to add my endscreen. Thanks ROB
Had to re-like the video. Im a DIYer and this video inspired me to calibrate my miter saw.
Everything is fantastic and I am so honoured to take away these tips. One I disagree with though is the marking with a knife. Yes it is more accurate but I think if diligence, competency and accuracy is taken seriously with the measuring device there shouldn’t be a issue … wicked video man👍🙂
I would add to this Jimmy DiResta's "If it looks straight it is straight". I once built a small oak wall cabinet that had a raised panel door above a drawer and the grain on the drawer front and the face frame behind it made it look crooked. I had to pull out my tape to prove to several people that it was in fact straight, but had to admit that it didn't look straight. I wound-up tilting the drawer front just a tad and it looked perfect, even though I knew better. If it looks straight, it is straight. Excellent video. Scott
Great story, thanks for sharing
Met a guy who did home reno’s when I renovated my old house.I helped out,as he was on his own.I learned more from him then I ever learned from my school tech shop all those years ago.These tips do help for do it yourselfers like me.👍
Good Tips. When you mark the floor for the location of the studs and electrical boxes, write the height of the center of the box at the same time.
Good one
When you talked about marking cuts with a utility knife, you marked a cut for the top of a kitchen unit, but what you did, without mentioning, is mark which way you wanted to cut the angle at the end of the board, which I thought was a brilliant tip in itself.
Pro Finish Carpenter here. One tip I would add for baseboard is go to Home Depot or Lowe's spend $10 on one of their 3 small pry bar sets. Nothing screams butcher quite like gaped copes. It takes all of 10 seconds to get in behind a piece of base with a mini pry bar and pull the cope tight but many pro's leave it to painter's to caulk.
Tip 2. If you find yourself more often than not saying "The painters will get it." Stop what you're doing, get online and look for a framing job. You're not cut out to be a finish carpenter.
Tip 3. Learn a tape measure as a second language. There's really no such thing as "34 and an 1/8 inch" more times than not it's going to be "34 and and 1/8 inch light or heavy" depending on where it falls on the tape.
These few tips I've given can mean the difference between naming your price and being the first guy laid off during lean times.
These are very true! I use my trim bar all the time. I never nail the base that comes under the cope on the bottom until after the cope is nailed to it. Lets you get easier movement with the trim bar.
Never heard "light" and "heavy" but I use "plus" for eighth, "plus plus" for thirty second and minus for an eighth behind. Say you butt into a wall and the measurement is 54 7/16, I'd just call that 54 1/2 minus and move on. Helps keep me from cluttering up my board with an excess of numbers.
@@Polecat_FTP Sounds like we use different language but understand the same concept. I don't actually write out the entire words light and heavy though. It's just the numbers then a little L or H beside it followed by nothing for a flush cut or LC, RC for cope or LO, RO for cuts that have miters. If it's 34 1/8 heavy with a left cope and right outside miter my cut sheet would say 34 1/8 H LC RO. It let's me measure out an entire house of base and know what every piece is without having to rely on memory.
@@Polecat_FTP I've trained a lot of new guys and always say that it doesn't matter how you do something as long as it looks good and doesn't take 3 times as long to do something. Some guys have the my way is the only way attitude and it's actually pretty dumb. Everyone sees things and works through problems differently. The one thing I will say for the light/heavy system is it's actually allowing me to get into 64's of an inch territory without having to actually memorize that entire system. You know if we do have that 34 1/8 H what it's really saying is 34 9/64 then if it's closer to the middle or more to 34 3/16 but not quite, 34 3/16 L is right around 34 11/64. Memorizing the 64ths system by number would be a nightmare though and not that useful since tapes only go into 16ths. I guess the L/H system is just a cheat sheet for that. Quick visual reference with really accurate results. Anyway, that's why I like it.
We’ll said!
An 8th inch light or heavy is why we have 16ths, 32nds, and 64ths. Learn division instead of saying that stupid shit. You're welcome.
I am so appreciative of the videos, many tips, tricks and opininons that come from respectable, hands on knowledge. Clear precise and to the point! keep it up!
I normally make furniture, but I do trim carpentry in my own home sometimes. Something that holds true from furniture making it that the less you rely on measuring the better. As you said, mark cuts with a knife, holding boards up to other boards. Reference off of existing materials and cuts as much as possible and you'll get much tighter fits than marking using a tape measure and a pencil. This is especially important for stain grade trim, where you can't just caulk and paint over gaps.
I'm liking this series, huge time savers. Thank you 🤜🤛
Glad you like them!
republishing my prior comment. Tip #4 - Mark Cuts with a Knife: excellent advice - based on a woodworker's use of a striker or marking knife.
My preferred method for general marking (not fine finish/trim) is to use a spring punch, couple pumps and I know to use the center of the divot for chalkline / straightedge/etc. Also, because its right there in my bag its how I mark for screws/create a small pilot - and it can often substitute for pre-drilling on some screws. Works on any just about any material - metal studs, wood, Hardi, pvc, conduit, coil, vents, masonry . . .
Rob, what a blessing are you!
That last one of how to take a slight blade off a piece is ingenious in my opinion.
Im a young finish Carpenter (im always looking to learn more) **** Anybody looking for good info that will help you not look like a schmuck on a jobsite... you're in the right place. As soon as I saw the "home-improvement" style back drop i said " oh yeah this guy knows what's up"
All tricks I use daily.
Thanks
Thank you!
You are the most pro on the web!
Wow, thanks!
Oh great another channel I have to subscribe to! Thank you!
I found this incredibly useful! Can’t wait to implement this in the future. Great to chat with you.
Nice chat today Micah!
Great Information
Excellent video. Thank you
Awesome video. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching!
tip#6 is also called spring boarding , tip # 11 glue a piece of formica to the face of your tape measure for taking notes and complex measurements
Wow, fantastic tips. Instant sub
Great channel. Drove my job site saw purchase. Eventhough it took me 6 months to decide. (Metabo won and it was dead on out if the box,)
Great video
I suggest people make a reveal block. I made a couple 16” long reveal blocks. I rabbit a 3/16 groove along the block and then do the same on each end. That way you can quickly mark reveals for your trim, or you can simply hold the block and butt the trim to it, rather than marking off multiple spots on a door jamb or window. I always mark the corners, so my hands are free to nail the miters, but then quickly use the block to nail off the rest of the reveal. Also a angle finder can be your best friend! Often people only cut 45 degrees when doing base on an outside corner. But very rarely is the corner perfect. It could be 92 degrees, so you would cut your base on a 46 degree rather than a 45 to get the perfect outside miter for that particular wall
I'm a finish carpenter. If whatever I'm working on requires a 3/16 reveal, and it's going to be painted, I set my combination square so I can pencil a line 3/16th's line completely on all the reveal edges. If I'm nailing on a stain finish, I set my combo square to 3/16" and use it as an reveal guide at each nail.
Ill have to give #10 a try when i do trim next
Nice video
re tip 1. The way I check a miter saw's square cut is to cut two 1x4's four side down at the saw's 45 deg horizontal stop. Once cut, put the cut joints together to make a right or 90 degree angle. Compare that angle to your 16 x 24 inch framing square.
really great content
Thank you
this guy is good
Great tips
Thank rob
I already know them tricks tnx
Nice one. Thanks :)
The only tip I don’t like is the last one. Instead of doing that… lower the blade onto the piece you want cut and see where the teeth hit and adjust accordingly
👍
Pencil under the board when cutting on a mitre saw seems pretty dodgy.
Are you a finish carpenter that transitioned into woodworking?
not sure - do a lil of both
one of my least favourite parts of the job, going back and forth all the time to the saw and working overhead or on your knees with a very "floppy" material is very tedious and frankly annoying.
i always measure out a room at a time, then go cut it all at once. Of course some recuts will be necessary, but I find it goes quicker with less physical exertion- that many less times getting up and down off the floor, trips to the saw, etc. also have a kneeling pad or knee pads.
@@chrisburns5691 Good idea. Anything helps
@@JimTom. and obviously this method involves a cut list, write down measurements, outside to outside, outside to inside, or outside to inside butt or cope scribe, etc
@@chrisburns5691 id rather stand at the saw with a list than go back and forth. i guess its the re-cutting thats the hassle, especially with fragile coped miters
@@JimTom. i find it way easier..
😆🍻🍺😊
Last tip, use metric system 🤣😂
haha, sad but true