At the time of you putting this video out , I had a 240 on my bench with the same the same issues by the sounds. Replaced all the fuel lines and bypassed the primer bulb. Six pulls and it goes yeah. There was a mark on the fuel line a possible pin hole or a faulty primer bulb with an air leak, the thing will idle for ten minutes restarts easy even after sitting for 20 minutes. Have a good one.
Right on I suspect the high speed check valve as well, Most of the carburetors on the throw away(cheap) stuff especially Zama,very seldom can be fixed with a kit. Stihl school graduate my self.
i LOVE mine, most used saw. the only thing i do not like is needing the allen wrench to change chain. i ran over my first one with tractor and missed it so much ordered another ASAP and it is just as good.
Afleetcommand - great fix for the Jon Cutter 2500.....would you happen to have a little more info about those "Husqvarna Handle Screws" you used for the retrofit ? A possible link or more part number ? Thanks again for your informative videos......great job ! Joe
The more you show that joncutter and talk about how good it is the more im convincing myself i need one of those haha. But i also have a few 18v makita batteries so i could try and get one of those 2 battery makita saws instead. Sometimes when working inside a house pulling out a gas saw is a really bad idea. A battery one would be extremely handy indoors. Great videos as always! Alot to learn from them.
The 10 and 12 inch Chinese bars meant for the 25cc top handles don't have issues like you had with the longer husqvarna bar. My Chinese top handle doesn't have that problem at all. I had a tank vent issue and the fuel line leaked at the joint, these were easy fixes tho. I swapped in a new vent from a parts saw and replaced the fuel line fitting with one I had that was a hair bigger. I think the joncutter is a little better built than the Chinese one I have, I have the g5800 too, it's a solid good running saw.
NSEric 123 I agree. I bought the Joncutter bar with the chainsaw and it seems to work fine without this issue. I think the issue is the Husqvarna bar not the chainsaw. Great saw by the way.
Great video. I love my jC g2500 as well. Took a chance buying it and it paid off. Great solution to the bar issue. Mine now has a leaking gas cap. Can you recommend a gas cap that would fit? The farmertec site charges an absurd amount of shipping to Canada.
I love my little Prowler Pup. 2 problems with it. The bar slop you addressed; I can’t wait to do this. The other is the saw break, it’s garbage. I even ordered a replacement and it’s just as bad. I wonder if mine came out of a bad batch from factory? Regardless, I love this little saw so much I ordered 2 more when they had them on sale at Christmas time. They remain in the box untouched. I also purchased a G111 (stihl 200T) top handle saw. It’s probably twice the HP of the Pup, but it’s also twice the weight. It sits on the shelf while the G2500 is my go to saw.
I bought this saw a year ago, and love it. Bit I had a 14 inch bar on it. Didnt like it in 6 to 8 inch pieces. Chattered a lot. Just put the husqvarna 12 inch bar on it and yeah found the same problem of the bar moving. Bit It has made it money back 2 fold or more.
Hi Walt..I know your pain with 240 ,there just tricky... their in the price range here in Ireland makes em popular and dealers don't mind sell em... there is a gasket between manifold and carb that may be the issue...them carbs are odd even to tune up...
I have owned tonhusqvarna 240’s at one time or another. I sold one and gave the other one to my son in law. I did not like them because they slobber bar oil like a drunk sailor. My son in law stumbles into a reason to crank up his 240 every several years and it cranks every time and runs good. I put him a 16 inch bar on it last year and dumped out the old fuel and retuned it for the longer bar. It ran fine but I do mix him up good, stabilized gas.
I was given a blown up 235E. Rebuilt it with Farmertec Cylinder kit, bearings, seals, fuel line.... Basically saved the plastics. Gave me headaches for months. Finally got it to run after soaking original carb in Marvel Mystery Oil and Star-tron stabilizer. The carb settings seem to be very sensitive. Will never build another 235E/240E style saw again. I only have $30 in it but way too much time!
I just ordered a G2500 the other night based on how you like the saw. I’m looking forward to getting it. Edit- after having my little JonCutter saw and running about 15 tanks of the 25:1 mix through it I really like it. I did the guide bar mod to it like it was mentioned in the video and everything works great on it. I’d have no problem buying another one but I mentioned it on a forum I frequent and it didn’t get a very good reception lol. Oh well, let them pay triple or more for the same size Echo or other brand.
I am more than impressed with my g2500. But the chain tensioner seems weird on mine as well. Maybe I should look into doing something like this. I just sold a 42cc poulan pro I could never keep it running constantly. I get it tuned in one day then the next time i grabbed it it needed to be adjusted again. You pretty well had to keep a carb adjustment tool in your back pocket at all times and the saw was brand new! So enough of that i sold the thing. But my jon cutter g2500, and g5800 never fail to impress.
When ordering parts in general for a joncutter. What do I buy? Everyone has parts for a husky,stihl,echo,etc... but when looking no one says will fit a joncutter 2500,4500,5800.
I was given a 235 that was almost new that somehow had a bent piston skirt. I threw a farmertec 240 top end on it, and I never was able to make it run like I felt like it should(carb never seemed right,) but I was able to make it run decent and reliable so I sold it as fast as I could. Even at its absolute best it was very dissapointing being I grew up with 133 series saws in the truck...
I have to do the same thing to my Jon Cutter 2500 thanks for posting this. The screws do not hold bar in place right. You say that they are the Huskvarner screws. The joncutter screws in mine do not even seem to have contact with the bar. I do not know how they should be expected to work. DO i need to modify the screws in there already? How in the heck did you get that bar to sit there while you were putting the chain back on?
"My attitude sucks" lol don't be too hard on yourself there these types of things can be absurdly frustrating!!! Are you using 25:1 mix in that Jon Cutter? I've got the Scheppach-CSP2540 badged version (seems there's at least 3-4 versions of this saw for 100-150 on amazon/ebay), it says 40:1 and I've been using 45:1 as it's easier to just have 1 fuel for all my machines, it's been 6mo and I use it as my 'daily driver' saw for climbing and have been astounded at its performance, it's my most-used saw and it's required zero tuning so far (have never touched its H/L/Idle settings once!), I have a 33cc top-handle (tanaka tcs33edtp) with a 16" for things I can't hit w/ my Scheppach/John.C but am so in-love w/ my Scheppach I'm ordering a 2nd one simply to avoid having a day where it breaks on me and I'm stuck carrying that ~12lbs Tanaka on my belt all afternoon! BUTTTT.....there's another reason for the 2nd one and am glad to hear someone besides me think it: "I think it's probably worth trying to get these to run as well as some of the $500 options out there yknow just for fun, I don't know if you can but.. It's a simple little saw" THIS!!! I was thinking to modify mine but didn't want to mess w/ it til I had the 2nd one in-hand! Out of curiosity, what approaches would you be considering when modding it? Mine's bone-stock excepting removal of spark-arrester (I'm in humid FL), removal of that front bumper w/ the dogs (lose >1.5" of cutting-length to have dogs on a 25cc? No thanks!), and I swapped the 10" oregon bar&chain it came with for a 12" echo setup that's kept razor-sharp & rakers are kept pretty low/aggressive, even still I can plunge it into anything 11.50" or shorter and it does the job!!! Thanks for this vid, I haven't had as much of a problem as you describe w/ the bar moving however on the 2 instances that others used my saw, both had that issue (and both were bogging-down in-cut), I suspect it was a combo of too-much force on the saw (not 'letting it do the work') and not making perfectly-straight cuts, I'm a very small guy so am pretty sure the loosening is more of 'man-handling' it but at the same time it'd be nice to put a bit of extra force in w/ confidence so am certainly doing this mod today/soon, what a cleverly-simple&staight-forward fix you came up with!! (also I'm very thankful for your discussion through the vid, I'd almost gotten a 192/193 instead, hell if someone offered me that husq 240 as-trade I would've jumped on it because, yknow, husqvarna....after all that I've learned in the past year as I got into fixing&rebuilding 2-strokes[much of my arsenal is resurrected 'trash'!], I've realized just how much of a PITA it can be and how many things can go wrong w/ petrol saws and while using good fuel goes a long way, my "ideal saw" is no longer a modded 200/201t but rather whatever 40 or 60V top-handle is best when I've got the $$ to go for one :D )
I've got a Pollan I picked up off the curb. I just thought I'd fiddle with it and see if I could get it running good. Same experience as you with the husky 240. The carb design is maddening and has sucked out my tinkering desires! 🥴 Why does Husqvarna do this? It really hurts their reputation.
Great video. What max RPM have you set your G2500 at? Website says 8500 which seems a little low. I turn my H screw in till I was at 11000 but haven't had a chance to cut with it yet.
@@afleetcommand I don't know but the spark plug in those models had too small of a gap, after a few runs it clogs up and won't idle or stay running. I bent it open a bit more and has worked fine since, but if you haven't already tried, might be worth it or just tossing in a different one. Love your videos btw, thanks so much, they have really helped! =D
love them 2 saws , i used alot of top hande saws i just got a old power mac 6 its looks half the size of all my other top handle saw so im going to get it running and do some mods to make it run a longer bar but not a race saw ill try to keep it a work saw but its nice ill see what they go for first so if that dont work i may get a jon cuter or look a like or fix the old stile 200t its missing couple parts
I got the new G2500 saw and I did the mod like you did right away using Allen head screws similar to the one that is on the clutch cover of the saw. I think the head is just a little too proud on them though as the clutch cover doesn’t clamp down tight on the bar and when I took the cover off to see what was up with the chain loosening up a lot on the first engine start I can see the screw head impressions on the metal piece on the clutch cover so I might have to carefully grind off a bit of the screw heads to make them work. I was surprised that the saw uses 3/8 pitch chain. I thought they’d use .325...?
That is a neat trick did you use a machine thread or plastic thread tap for the mod? I have a Red one that I'm sure was probably made by the same manufacturer, although mine was from EBay but looks almost identical, and I agree it's the best little lightest limbing saw I've ever used, mine sports a little 10" 3/8 bar & chain. Your not crabby them pull'n pull'n pull'ns will cause ones blood pressure to rise almost instantly, funny how some people want you to turn a turd into a bar of gold.🤬👹🤯💣
I'm thinking about getting a jon cutter g5800 I see your running a husqvarna bar on the small one there just wondering are all the joncutter saws husqvarna mount and oilers line up been searching for an answer for few days now can't find out
I have one, thought I haven't fired it up yet but I had the bar issue, I was hoping to use the smaller bar I had ordered for the G372xp but it did not fit, nor my other china saw that is about the same model. I happen to order a 24" bar that lined up perfect though. *"24" OREGON Guide Bar 248RNDK095 3/8-058-84DL Husqvarna 359 560 Jonsered 2159"* www.ebay.com/itm/24-OREGON-Guide-Bar-248RNDK095-3-8-058-84DL-Husqvarna-359-560-Jonsered-2159/382448779165?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Hope that helps. The 24 is a bit to long but it's just for fun, Fine one that size, hope it helps!
The joncutter g5800 takes a small mount husky bar, like the one for a 450,346,51,550, etc. They come with a 3/8 rim sprocket so you need a 3/8 bar/chain or a .325 rim and bar/chain. I like 16 inch bars on these saws as they're front heavy and slow with 20 inch bars. I put 3/8lp on mine. I have a stihl 025 14 inch bar, which specs a 50 link chain with a 52 link Oregon chain with the stock rim sprocket.
take that 4300 and remove the exhaust, pull the center plate with the cat. throw it in the trash. put some putty in the exhaust port, with the piston at top. clean up the port with a dremel. sand it smoth with some 800 grit. clean out and reassemble. mine runs like a banshee now.
Uh...OK. I believe I heard you say it was a “handle screw.” Do you know what model or models use this screw and where it is on the saw? The video doesn’t show the original or modified screw in sufficient detail for visual recognition.
I just went the hardware store and got two Allen screw screws like he showed in the video. Don’t get machine screws get a thread like a sheet metal screw would have so you can just screw then in. I can’t remember if I had to drill two holes or if the say had holes for screws already and I might have had to make the screw holes larger if it did have them. Remember that you’ll probably have to grind down the head of the screw a tad if it protrudes past the thickness of the chain bar or else the cover won’t seat properly.
I absolutely agree on the 235/240 Husqvarna, horrid saws. I’ve worked on a lot of the Poulan saws, and I fully believe Husqvarna actually made the design worse. That said, I have one of the joncutter g2500s on the way. I ordered a bar with it, but noticed you had a Husqvarna bar on yours. Which bar mount does it use? I couldn’t find any info on that anywhere.
worst saw to raise blood pressure??? the McC 'timber bear' ....the ignition coils give internitmant spark so you end up chasing carb probs and then killswitch short......only to find out the coil modual cost more that that shitty saw.
anybody know how to remover the whole chainbrake and gaurd assy???i'm a climber and on my stihls it was easy (they get in my way in tight trees). no safetly lectures plz.
I like old saws& new stuff does anyone have an opinion on or know who makes Ryobi gas powered chainsaws I found some in a discount place for $50 each 16 inch Ryobi chainsaw 10 day guarantee
from my research i've done on cheap ryobys all i could find is that they are a basic chinese saw based on some old design that most cheap chinese saws are based on.
I did the mod to my saw. What a big improvment. Thanks for posting this
Great mod on the Jon cutter! Also appreciate your honest opinions regardless of brand or make. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you 😊
Just bought one of those little ones thanks for sharing
At the time of you putting this video out , I had a 240 on my bench with the same the same issues by the sounds. Replaced all the fuel lines and bypassed the primer bulb. Six pulls and it goes yeah. There was a mark on the fuel line a possible pin hole or a faulty primer bulb with an air leak, the thing will idle for ten minutes restarts easy even after sitting for 20 minutes. Have a good one.
Right on I suspect the high speed check valve as well, Most of the carburetors on the throw away(cheap) stuff especially Zama,very seldom can be fixed with a kit. Stihl school graduate my self.
The Husky badge on the bar gives it class!
i LOVE mine, most used saw. the only thing i do not like is needing the allen wrench to change chain. i ran over my first one with tractor and missed it so much ordered another ASAP and it is just as good.
I stopped in at Cutting Edge last week when visiting my sister in NY. Turns out my Dad knows the owner. Very Nice shop and excellent staff.
Stephen Mose are you talking about Harry B ?
I have a 1979 powermac 310. Same issue. Closeups are Helpful.
Afleetcommand - great fix for the Jon Cutter 2500.....would you happen to have a little more info about those "Husqvarna Handle Screws" you used for the retrofit ? A possible link or more part number ? Thanks again for your informative videos......great job ! Joe
The more you show that joncutter and talk about how good it is the more im convincing myself i need one of those haha. But i also have a few 18v makita batteries so i could try and get one of those 2 battery makita saws instead. Sometimes when working inside a house pulling out a gas saw is a really bad idea. A battery one would be extremely handy indoors. Great videos as always! Alot to learn from them.
Yup, go Makita....:)
Just ordered one of these. Would love to see a video of you inspecting the cylinder and possibly trying some port tweaking for some extra power/rpm.
I love my joncutter Thanks nice 👍 fix I’m gonna do that to mine
The 10 and 12 inch Chinese bars meant for the 25cc top handles don't have issues like you had with the longer husqvarna bar. My Chinese top handle doesn't have that problem at all.
I had a tank vent issue and the fuel line leaked at the joint, these were easy fixes tho. I swapped in a new vent from a parts saw and replaced the fuel line fitting with one I had that was a hair bigger.
I think the joncutter is a little better built than the Chinese one I have, I have the g5800 too, it's a solid good running saw.
NSEric 123 I agree. I bought the Joncutter bar with the chainsaw and it seems to work fine without this issue. I think the issue is the Husqvarna bar not the chainsaw. Great saw by the way.
Great video. I love my jC g2500 as well. Took a chance buying it and it paid off. Great solution to the bar issue. Mine now has a leaking gas cap. Can you recommend a gas cap that would fit? The farmertec site charges an absurd amount of shipping to Canada.
Love the info. Been on the fence about trying the joncutter for a truck saw. Thanks Walt
I love my little Prowler Pup. 2 problems with it. The bar slop you addressed; I can’t wait to do this. The other is the saw break, it’s garbage. I even ordered a replacement and it’s just as bad. I wonder if mine came out of a bad batch from factory? Regardless, I love this little saw so much I ordered 2 more when they had them on sale at Christmas time. They remain in the box untouched. I also purchased a G111 (stihl 200T) top handle saw. It’s probably twice the HP of the Pup, but it’s also twice the weight. It sits on the shelf while the G2500 is my go to saw.
Hey I totally understand your attitude!!
I bought this saw a year ago, and love it. Bit I had a 14 inch bar on it. Didnt like it in 6 to 8 inch pieces. Chattered a lot. Just put the husqvarna 12 inch bar on it and yeah found the same problem of the bar moving. Bit It has made it money back 2 fold or more.
I’ve got the makita a blue 1 just like you said great saw
Hi Walt..I know your pain with 240 ,there just tricky... their in the price range here in Ireland makes em popular and dealers don't mind sell em... there is a gasket between manifold and carb that may be the issue...them carbs are odd even to tune up...
I have owned tonhusqvarna 240’s at one time or another. I sold one and gave the other one to my son in law. I did not like them because they slobber bar oil like a drunk sailor. My son in law stumbles into a reason to crank up his 240 every several years and it cranks every time and runs good. I put him a 16 inch bar on it last year and dumped out the old fuel and retuned it for the longer bar. It ran fine but I do mix him up good, stabilized gas.
I was given a blown up 235E. Rebuilt it with Farmertec Cylinder kit, bearings, seals, fuel line.... Basically saved the plastics.
Gave me headaches for months. Finally got it to run after soaking original carb in Marvel Mystery Oil and Star-tron stabilizer. The carb settings seem to be very sensitive. Will never build another 235E/240E style saw again. I only have $30 in it but way too much time!
Great fix. I WANT ONE,!!
I just ordered a G2500 the other night based on how you like the saw. I’m looking forward to getting it.
Edit- after having my little JonCutter saw and running about 15 tanks of the 25:1 mix through it I really like it. I did the guide bar mod to it like it was mentioned in the video and everything works great on it. I’d have no problem buying another one but I mentioned it on a forum I frequent and it didn’t get a very good reception lol. Oh well, let them pay triple or more for the same size Echo or other brand.
The only complaint about my G2500 is the chain break engages a little to easy. Just the chain engaging the wood to hard and it trips it.
I am more than impressed with my g2500. But the chain tensioner seems weird on mine as well. Maybe I should look into doing something like this. I just sold a 42cc poulan pro I could never keep it running constantly. I get it tuned in one day then the next time i grabbed it it needed to be adjusted again. You pretty well had to keep a carb adjustment tool in your back pocket at all times and the saw was brand new! So enough of that i sold the thing. But my jon cutter g2500, and g5800 never fail to impress.
I got a Type 2500 Chinese Zenoah clone and it rocks
To do the mod on the JonCutter can you give me the size of the bolts and the size drill bit you used. Thanks!
When ordering parts in general for a joncutter. What do I buy? Everyone has parts for a husky,stihl,echo,etc... but when looking no one says will fit a joncutter 2500,4500,5800.
Probably one of the zenoah top handle saws, joncutters are zenoah clones
Great video. New subscriber
I have that saw and love it. It started leaking fuel today. Any idea what I should look for? Thank you
I was given a 235 that was almost new that somehow had a bent piston skirt. I threw a farmertec 240 top end on it, and I never was able to make it run like I felt like it should(carb never seemed right,) but I was able to make it run decent and reliable so I sold it as fast as I could. Even at its absolute best it was very dissapointing being I grew up with 133 series saws in the truck...
02.12.22
Can’t find the G 2500 cheap
plus the ones o found,come without bar and chain
I have to do the same thing to my Jon Cutter 2500 thanks for posting this. The screws do not hold bar in place right. You say that they are the Huskvarner screws. The joncutter screws in mine do not even seem to have contact with the bar. I do not know how they should be expected to work. DO i need to modify the screws in there already? How in the heck did you get that bar to sit there while you were putting the chain back on?
You need to pressure test the bottom cranks and see if the seals are leaking on the bottom of the crack case.
Maryland New York, just off route 7
"My attitude sucks" lol don't be too hard on yourself there these types of things can be absurdly frustrating!!!
Are you using 25:1 mix in that Jon Cutter? I've got the Scheppach-CSP2540 badged version (seems there's at least 3-4 versions of this saw for 100-150 on amazon/ebay), it says 40:1 and I've been using 45:1 as it's easier to just have 1 fuel for all my machines, it's been 6mo and I use it as my 'daily driver' saw for climbing and have been astounded at its performance, it's my most-used saw and it's required zero tuning so far (have never touched its H/L/Idle settings once!), I have a 33cc top-handle (tanaka tcs33edtp) with a 16" for things I can't hit w/ my Scheppach/John.C but am so in-love w/ my Scheppach I'm ordering a 2nd one simply to avoid having a day where it breaks on me and I'm stuck carrying that ~12lbs Tanaka on my belt all afternoon! BUTTTT.....there's another reason for the 2nd one and am glad to hear someone besides me think it:
"I think it's probably worth trying to get these to run as well as some of the $500 options out there yknow just for fun, I don't know if you can but.. It's a simple little saw"
THIS!!! I was thinking to modify mine but didn't want to mess w/ it til I had the 2nd one in-hand! Out of curiosity, what approaches would you be considering when modding it? Mine's bone-stock excepting removal of spark-arrester (I'm in humid FL), removal of that front bumper w/ the dogs (lose >1.5" of cutting-length to have dogs on a 25cc? No thanks!), and I swapped the 10" oregon bar&chain it came with for a 12" echo setup that's kept razor-sharp & rakers are kept pretty low/aggressive, even still I can plunge it into anything 11.50" or shorter and it does the job!!!
Thanks for this vid, I haven't had as much of a problem as you describe w/ the bar moving however on the 2 instances that others used my saw, both had that issue (and both were bogging-down in-cut), I suspect it was a combo of too-much force on the saw (not 'letting it do the work') and not making perfectly-straight cuts, I'm a very small guy so am pretty sure the loosening is more of 'man-handling' it but at the same time it'd be nice to put a bit of extra force in w/ confidence so am certainly doing this mod today/soon, what a cleverly-simple&staight-forward fix you came up with!!
(also I'm very thankful for your discussion through the vid, I'd almost gotten a 192/193 instead, hell if someone offered me that husq 240 as-trade I would've jumped on it because, yknow, husqvarna....after all that I've learned in the past year as I got into fixing&rebuilding 2-strokes[much of my arsenal is resurrected 'trash'!], I've realized just how much of a PITA it can be and how many things can go wrong w/ petrol saws and while using good fuel goes a long way, my "ideal saw" is no longer a modded 200/201t but rather whatever 40 or 60V top-handle is best when I've got the $$ to go for one :D )
I've got a Pollan I picked up off the curb. I just thought I'd fiddle with it and see if I could get it running good. Same experience as you with the husky 240. The carb design is maddening and has sucked out my tinkering desires! 🥴 Why does Husqvarna do this? It really hurts their reputation.
Great video. What max RPM have you set your G2500 at? Website says 8500 which seems a little low. I turn my H screw in till I was at 11000 but haven't had a chance to cut with it yet.
I just set it by ear have no idea on that little saw, just shoot for a little 4 stroking at the top of the rpm scale on it
Good job i have same problem nou i fiks main to....
Didn't those have a spark plug gap issue, at least the poulans of that model. I know it fixed one of mine.
Might, I'm all ears on how to get that POS to run well.
@@afleetcommand I don't know but the spark plug in those models had too small of a gap, after a few runs it clogs up and won't idle or stay running. I bent it open a bit more and has worked fine since, but if you haven't already tried, might be worth it or just tossing in a different one. Love your videos btw, thanks so much, they have really helped! =D
Walt what have you done to the 240 so far?
Walt, what happens with the accelrator pump if it has one(can't remember) they score the bore and then they leak. see reply down below.
Walt do the G2500 take the A041 or K095 bar mount bars? I've got one coming this week and wondered what bar to get.
I don't know, it was what ever Husqvarna uses on their Top Handle saw.
love them 2 saws , i used alot of top hande saws i just got a old power mac 6 its looks half the size of all my other top handle saw so im going to get it running and do some mods to make it run a longer bar but not a race saw ill try to keep it a work saw but its nice ill see what they go for first so if that dont work i may get a jon cuter or look a like or fix the old stile 200t its missing couple parts
How do you go about getting an ignition coil for this saw
ebay? Or email farmertec I guess. I haven't tried to see if there are others to retro in. Suspect there are.
I got the new G2500 saw and I did the mod like you did right away using Allen head screws similar to the one that is on the clutch cover of the saw. I think the head is just a little too proud on them though as the clutch cover doesn’t clamp down tight on the bar and when I took the cover off to see what was up with the chain loosening up a lot on the first engine start I can see the screw head impressions on the metal piece on the clutch cover so I might have to carefully grind off a bit of the screw heads to make them work. I was surprised that the saw uses 3/8 pitch chain. I thought they’d use .325...?
Screws can't protrude past the thickness of the bar as I mentioned,
afleetcommand Ok I didn’t catch that.
That is a neat trick did you use a machine thread or plastic thread tap for the mod?
I have a Red one that I'm sure was probably made by the same manufacturer, although mine was from EBay but looks almost identical, and I agree it's the best little lightest limbing saw I've ever used, mine sports a little 10" 3/8 bar & chain.
Your not crabby them pull'n pull'n pull'ns will cause ones blood pressure to rise almost instantly, funny how some people want you to turn a turd into a bar of gold.🤬👹🤯💣
plastic
Is the impulse tube and the fuel inlet tube reversed?
I'm thinking about getting a jon cutter g5800 I see your running a husqvarna bar on the small one there just wondering are all the joncutter saws husqvarna mount and oilers line up been searching for an answer for few days now can't find out
I have no idea until I get one...:)
I have one, thought I haven't fired it up yet but I had the bar issue, I was hoping to use the smaller bar I had ordered for the G372xp but it did not fit, nor my other china saw that is about the same model. I happen to order a 24" bar that lined up perfect though. *"24" OREGON Guide Bar 248RNDK095 3/8-058-84DL Husqvarna 359 560 Jonsered 2159"* www.ebay.com/itm/24-OREGON-Guide-Bar-248RNDK095-3-8-058-84DL-Husqvarna-359-560-Jonsered-2159/382448779165?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Hope that helps. The 24 is a bit to long but it's just for fun, Fine one that size, hope it helps!
The joncutter g5800 takes a small mount husky bar, like the one for a 450,346,51,550, etc.
They come with a 3/8 rim sprocket so you need a 3/8 bar/chain or a .325 rim and bar/chain.
I like 16 inch bars on these saws as they're front heavy and slow with 20 inch bars.
I put 3/8lp on mine. I have a stihl 025 14 inch bar, which specs a 50 link chain with a 52 link Oregon chain with the stock rim sprocket.
take that 4300 and remove the exhaust, pull the center plate with the cat. throw it in the trash. put some putty in the exhaust port, with the piston at top. clean up the port with a dremel. sand it smoth with some 800 grit. clean out and reassemble. mine runs like a banshee now.
The Makita...its a sweet little saw as it is actually. Although that eco muffler gets pretty hot.
@@afleetcommand just pull the cat. its three piece muffler. no welds.
There is a carb on amazon that will fit that saw.
Where is the carb adjustment screws on this saw?
Love it.👍 Nice.😆
The 236 and 240 are both a huge let down for anyone who owns them and have done so much damage to the Husqvarna brand name.
i was considering buying one this year, but i've managed to revive my dad's old 40/45
Where's the oiler on the 2500
I bought a brand new Husqvarna arborist saw. It never worked right.
I don’t recall...did you muffler mod the Joncutter at all?
Nope, I want it quite
I do too. Dont want ear plugs on one of my saws. Lol
Do you have a part number for those Husqvarna screws?
no
Uh...OK. I believe I heard you say it was a “handle screw.” Do you know what model or models use this screw and where it is on the saw? The video doesn’t show the original or modified screw in sufficient detail for visual recognition.
I just went the hardware store and got two Allen screw screws like he showed in the video. Don’t get machine screws get a thread like a sheet metal screw would have so you can just screw then in. I can’t remember if I had to drill two holes or if the say had holes for screws already and I might have had to make the screw holes larger if it did have them. Remember that you’ll probably have to grind down the head of the screw a tad if it protrudes past the thickness of the chain bar or else the cover won’t seat properly.
I see the little woman of the house is the troubleshooter LOL
lmao , Walt , we all have those days... you're just as human as the rest of us.
Take one drive link out of it to put the bar into the case more
i'd love to try and revive that 240
I absolutely agree on the 235/240 Husqvarna, horrid saws. I’ve worked on a lot of the Poulan saws, and I fully believe Husqvarna actually made the design worse.
That said, I have one of the joncutter g2500s on the way. I ordered a bar with it, but noticed you had a Husqvarna bar on yours. Which bar mount does it use? I couldn’t find any info on that anywhere.
Like Bob said Walter, the 240 is junk. Working on junk makes no saw guy very happy or motivated!
worst saw to raise blood pressure??? the McC 'timber bear' ....the ignition coils give internitmant spark so you end up chasing carb probs and then killswitch short......only to find out the coil modual cost more that that shitty saw.
anybody know how to remover the whole chainbrake and gaurd assy???i'm a climber and on my stihls it was easy (they get in my way in tight trees). no safetly lectures plz.
I like old saws& new stuff does anyone have an opinion on or know who makes Ryobi gas powered chainsaws I found some in a discount place for $50 each 16 inch Ryobi chainsaw 10 day guarantee
from my research i've done on cheap ryobys all i could find is that they are a basic chinese saw based on some old design that most cheap chinese saws are based on.