I was a fencer in NZ in the seventies. All axe, spade and chisel work. Our stay blocks were one metre set in solid ground horizontally. Interesting watching the young dudes and there ideas.
I've never put up a fence like we saw in this video, but I remember belonging to the Southend Motorcycle Club getting on for 60 years ago. Every year we put on a motocross event (we called it scrambles back then) and had to drive in hundreds of posts to fence off the track from the spectators. I grew up and worked on a farm and. and was fitter than most, but I dreaded that job. Hardest thing I've done in my life. There were some older guys who seemed to make light work of it, and come to think of it, they were also farm workers.
I'd normally do it following crew 1 however we'd always install the first post with the sap facing away from the stay so when that rots and falls off you don't lose tension on all wires. Both methods work and have their advantages and disadvantages.
Me being a newbie on fencing , it has helped a lot on how & what to do.There has been many video's i have watched ,& many different ways These video's i find the best Thanks Tim.
Both very good methods. The height is important as you have pointed out, the only thing I would prefer is a slightly longer stay. It appeared to be 3 metres or 10 feet, I always liked 12 feet. I had a plough disc with a piece of pipe welded on to it about a foot long with a v shaped jaw on it to put the stay on for doing the ends. They never got away and the saw was away from the ground. I have had very good results with concrete stay blocks, the end of the stay is out of the ground and they are quick, no digging needed. Also it effectively lengthens the stay as it is above ground and gives a better triangle. Jeff
I always have a weed spray bottle with a sump oil mix In it to spray all inside the mortise and spray some on top of the post, still have post in the ground 20 years later with no rot.
Great job , in wet or soft conditions I've often used a horizontal strut block about 30" long below ground level at a right angle to the strut. , quick easy and never had any customers complain.
A post laying horizontally in the ground at the foot of your stay is called a “dead man”. My uncle used them all the time when he was fencing. When I was fencing with a contractor, we used a “H” strainer with a round post, a horizontal brace & a backup with a diagonal wire tensioned up.
Great video! I love watching professionals work. The stay block that the second team put in was epic but both those fences will stand the test of time. Happy New Year Tim. Looking forward to more great videos in 2024.
The main thing I do differently is put about a 4' long stay block in horizontally across the fence line. - really great to see how the pros do it so easily and well - Liked the hole in the chain bar for depth, beats my Texta mark.
Where was this video a couple weeks ago lol. I have been watching your videos for months working up the courage to fence my own place and they have been really helpful but couldn't find any good information anywhere about hardwood strainers and stays. I just ended up just winging it. I can now see where I went wrong and what to do different next time. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks for showing the two different options. Did I miss the bit mentioned in this or the last video where the chain hanging down from the Thor was used as the guide to get the posts to the same depth each time?
Good morning, Tim, another brilliant video. Both of the chaps working their respective chainsaws could be orthopedic surgeons, Excellent chainsaw work. Really interesting seeing the two methods, I can see where I went wrong on my fencing attempts. Cheers
Great tips and techniques & the timber looks like the quality from the past .in nz they use fast grown pine and plastic which just doesnt cut the mustard !
I would really like a commentary on when and why you would go with this style vs ye old H brace end or corner. Here in the south east US I see almost exclusively H style.
If my end post moved that much when I was knocking the strainer into the notch I'd be pissed. Anything less than putting my shoulder to it to try to move it and I'm not happy. Or is it just the camera that makes it look like there's movement?
I wondered how long that strainer was as it was too easily moved by just pushing the stay in place by hand. If that was a 2.4 m strainer driven into ground like that it shouldn't shake like that, camera has nothing to do with it.
Couldn't come at a better time, doing some fences tomorrow i like the first way looks easier except i don't have an excavator, ill work out the stay post. One thing. why do both teams cut the bottom of the mortise 90 degrees to the post? Is there a reason? Shouldn't it be cut on an angle? Or it doesn't make a difference? Thanks again Tim great info and well explained. Cheers
Hi Tim! Great content as always! I think it does make a difference….having the bottom cut at 90 deg leaves a void inside the join……I guess in practical terms for the strength of the stay it doesn’t make any difference but it does leave a void that will potentially hold excessive moisture……..wish we could get timber that hard here in the uk, all our stuff is cardboard compared to what’s on display here! Lee up the great content 👌🏻👍🏻
I decided to cut mine on the angle to release water if any got in there also cut an angle on the angled piece for a better butt fit then painted the inside with old engine oil also for water but I have plenty of time to muck around
I've never really thought about it here in the states I see a lot of the braces up towards the top of the posts and they do pull out a locked I just don't understand how it would keep from doing that if you're lowering your brace is there some place that somebody could explain something like that to me very interesting very good video though
It’s got to do with angle of force applied on the strainer post. The higher the brace post, the more upward force is exerted on the end post. It’s vector physics. It might be worth a RUclips short… what do you think?
In the UK I see. 8ft post strainer then 7ft cut & nailed for crossing, followed by another 8ft post strainer then a 7ft at 45° degrees. A post hammered in at the end of the angled post. All joins are nailed. Then 7ft post there after. Strainer at every 50 meters or a bend.
Cut the face of stay blocks on a 30 degree and about 5-6hundred long. The stay has less chance to push down the block and when you hit stay end down it gets tighter as you go. So you don't have to have it so tight at beginning
So I can see the benefit of using a floating brace, overdoing the H brace because you do not have to do the extra work of putting in an extra post, but in that case they’re actually putting in a second brace post. Is there an advantage to that set up versus an H brace it almost looks like that would take longer to do once you get done with all the cutting and fitting? Another one of my wireman grapples on my strainer is failing. I’m not real impressed with that product. I think I’m gonna buy a strain right grappler to put in there as we have a dealer here in the states that I can buy from locally.
Hey mate, no. no advantage. Just another way of doing the end assembly job that's really popular in some regions. Regional practices are really unique in Australia. Sorry to hear about your strainer issues.
My 10c ..... stays are too high ... 2mtr deer fences we where about 700mm ... "normal" 1100mm stock fence 500 to top of stay... if in soft ground a breast block on the post down 500mm oppersite the stay..
Two good teams. However, the 2nd team gets my tick of approval as trainer/assessor and fencer as this is how we teach/ train. As I always say to my students, there is more than one way to fence (skin a cat!😀). The chainsaw operator of the 2nd team obviously has his chainsaw certification!
I do thousands of km of fencing in Australia. Sorry to say but you guys are in the dark ages. 100 mm galvanised pipe by 2.5 long. Drive it 1.5 into the ground. Weld top and angle brace and it'll be there long after your gone. Immune to bushfire, white ants ,rotting the lot.
You’re missing a huge point of these videos mate… celebrating skills in all forms. Being positive and open minded about what others do. Where these guys fence it’s all timber and they have their reasons. I’ve done a stack, and will do more on steel fencing and use it myself. That’s no reason not to celebrate skills I don’t use. I’m loving learning and growing, not entrenched and stuck. It’s hilarious that timber fencers from other countries have also had a crack without stopping to think that maybe another country has different materials, soil and conditions. Never judge someone unless you first get to know them I say. Anyway, safe travels and stay positive.
Good day mate, great tool , dog set up on tip of bar, now I am in Canada, Could you give me a price on this tool of your Dad^s. Thanks mate , have a great season, play safe, be strong, stay healthy, KB, Koala Bob
You are overlooking the difference between the two countries. You fence in very different conditions. I would be very happy to showcase your skills and trechniques such as deadman stays. I would never disrespect a tradesman from a different country or culture.
@@FarmLearningTimwould be great if you were able to do a video like this on NZ style, from what I understand their conditions are more similar to here in the UK
No comment, You guys did a very good job, we are learning at the same time, Go Aussie, Be proud of what you do.
Great to see both teams taking pride in their work. I'd be happy to utilise the services of either of them.
Awesome job to both crews 😊😊 you forgot to slap the stays and say “that’s not goin anywhere “ lol😂😂
😁
I was a fencer in NZ in the seventies. All axe, spade and chisel work. Our stay blocks were one metre set in solid ground horizontally. Interesting watching the young dudes and there ideas.
Great to hear from you Alan. Hope to get over there someday.
I feel technique one is more efficient but obviously it is what you are used to. Nice work gents.
Everyone has their ways but these guys all did a great tutorial. Thanks guys.
I've never put up a fence like we saw in this video, but I remember belonging to the Southend Motorcycle Club getting on for 60 years ago. Every year we put on a motocross event (we called it scrambles back then) and had to drive in hundreds of posts to fence off the track from the spectators. I grew up and worked on a farm and. and was fitter than most, but I dreaded that job. Hardest thing I've done in my life. There were some older guys who seemed to make light work of it, and come to think of it, they were also farm workers.
The tamper on the end of the shovel handle the second crew has is a great idea!
Yeah keep an eye on the Sneddens site for that one
@@FarmLearningTim I need to get one of those. Such a good idea
I'd normally do it following crew 1 however we'd always install the first post with the sap facing away from the stay so when that rots and falls off you don't lose tension on all wires.
Both methods work and have their advantages and disadvantages.
Me being a newbie on fencing , it has helped a lot on how & what to do.There has been many video's i have watched ,& many different ways These video's i find the best Thanks Tim.
It was fun watching different techniques. Good video.
Super demonstration
Both very good methods. The height is important as you have pointed out, the only thing I would prefer is a slightly longer stay. It appeared to be 3 metres or 10 feet, I always liked 12 feet. I had a plough disc with a piece of pipe welded on to it about a foot long with a v shaped jaw on it to put the stay on for doing the ends. They never got away and the saw was away from the ground. I have had very good results with concrete stay blocks, the end of the stay is out of the ground and they are quick, no digging needed. Also it effectively lengthens the stay as it is above ground and gives a better triangle. Jeff
I always have a weed spray bottle with a sump oil mix In it to spray all inside the mortise and spray some on top of the post, still have post in the ground 20 years later with no rot.
Great job , in wet or soft conditions I've often used a horizontal strut block about 30" long below ground level at a right angle to the strut. , quick easy and never had any customers complain.
A post laying horizontally in the ground at the foot of your stay is called a “dead man”. My uncle used them all the time when he was fencing. When I was fencing with a contractor, we used a “H” strainer with a round post, a horizontal brace & a backup with a diagonal wire tensioned up.
@@jeffreyfahl7942 thanks Jeffrey you learn something new everyday.
@@jeffreyfahl7942 Be great to see how the Pros put in an "H" strainer assembly. ☺️
Might go do some fencing now. Great job by both parties
Great video! I love watching professionals work. The stay block that the second team put in was epic but both those fences will stand the test of time. Happy New Year Tim. Looking forward to more great videos in 2024.
Thank you for sharing these two methods.
The main thing I do differently is put about a 4' long stay block in horizontally across the fence line.
- really great to see how the pros do it so easily and well -
Liked the hole in the chain bar for depth, beats my Texta mark.
That bar jig is is something else
Im going with the second technique because of the way they measured the cut out block to the post & because of the better backfilling method.
I’ve done split rail
You name it !
In Montana , Idaho,Nevada on ranches
Forest Service
Good work. Well presented
Where was this video a couple weeks ago lol. I have been watching your videos for months working up the courage to fence my own place and they have been really helpful but couldn't find any good information anywhere about hardwood strainers and stays. I just ended up just winging it. I can now see where I went wrong and what to do different next time. Keep up the great videos.
😂
You guys are good !
Great work
They make it look easy but that comes with experience of course, great vid enjoyed this one.
Both ways seem great. One looks better for a solo job. The other looks better with a crew but all-around good job blokes.
Thanks for showing the two different options. Did I miss the bit mentioned in this or the last video where the chain hanging down from the Thor was used as the guide to get the posts to the same depth each time?
You didn't miss that. I'm releasing that in the future as a seperate tips video... Spoiler alert...
Good morning, Tim, another brilliant video. Both of the chaps working their respective chainsaws could be orthopedic surgeons, Excellent chainsaw work. Really interesting seeing the two methods, I can see where I went wrong on my fencing attempts. Cheers
Great tips and techniques & the timber looks like the quality from the past .in nz they use fast grown pine and plastic which just doesnt cut the mustard !
Learned a lot
Super cool and fun to watch vid
Scott is a man of many words 😂
Great job fellas, might do much need fencing myself.
Glad it inspired you mate
I would really like a commentary on when and why you would go with this style vs ye old H brace end or corner. Here in the south east US I see almost exclusively H style.
Lots of opinions and variables on that one for sure. I’ll think about how to best deliver that one for you.
Great content Tim, well done.
Thanks guys, great video.
Who supplies the digging bar in the second half?
Keep up the good work and informative content.
Thanks again, cheers Tom
Cheers mate. Snedden’s link in description
Beautiful lengthy job, now the termites will suss it out.
It will take decades for them to effect the support.
If my end post moved that much when I was knocking the strainer into the notch I'd be pissed. Anything less than putting my shoulder to it to try to move it and I'm not happy. Or is it just the camera that makes it look like there's movement?
Its a wide angle lense. It exaggerates.
I wondered how long that strainer was as it was too easily moved by just pushing the stay in place by hand. If that was a 2.4 m strainer driven into ground like that it shouldn't shake like that, camera has nothing to do with it.
Couldn't come at a better time, doing some fences tomorrow i like the first way looks easier except i don't have an excavator, ill work out the stay post. One thing. why do both teams cut the bottom of the mortise 90 degrees to the post? Is there a reason? Shouldn't it be cut on an angle? Or it doesn't make a difference? Thanks again Tim great info and well explained. Cheers
Hey Tony, dosen't make much of a difference.
Hi Tim! Great content as always! I think it does make a difference….having the bottom cut at 90 deg leaves a void inside the join……I guess in practical terms for the strength of the stay it doesn’t make any difference but it does leave a void that will potentially hold excessive moisture……..wish we could get timber that hard here in the uk, all our stuff is cardboard compared to what’s on display here! Lee up the great content 👌🏻👍🏻
I decided to cut mine on the angle to release water if any got in there also cut an angle on the angled piece for a better butt fit then painted the inside with old engine oil also for water but I have plenty of time to muck around
Hi tim great video. How does the barb wire come off of the strainer? Does it run on the outer or inner to the middle of the 1st strainer post.
The wire is tied around.
Nice job
Both ways are strong enough for any of my fences.
I've never really thought about it here in the states I see a lot of the braces up towards the top of the posts and they do pull out a locked I just don't understand how it would keep from doing that if you're lowering your brace is there some place that somebody could explain something like that to me very interesting very good video though
It’s got to do with angle of force applied on the strainer post. The higher the brace post, the more upward force is exerted on the end post. It’s vector physics. It might be worth a RUclips short… what do you think?
In the UK I see.
8ft post strainer then 7ft cut & nailed for crossing, followed by another 8ft post strainer then a 7ft at 45° degrees. A post hammered in at the end of the angled post. All joins are nailed. Then 7ft post there after. Strainer at every 50 meters or a bend.
yeah i tend to nail mine too but i use deadmans and a 8 or 12ft strainer im on limestone country so sometimes you cant get good depths.
Cut the face of stay blocks on a 30 degree and about 5-6hundred long. The stay has less chance to push down the block and when you hit stay end down it gets tighter as you go. So you don't have to have it so tight at beginning
What kind of lumber? tanalised?
Would love to visit your country
Vice versa mate… as long as I can stay away from the cities…..
I think RHS & oval rail & concrete makes everything more simple and less technical 👍
I HAVE always done the same as second person but used A rock instead of the block
Top notch
So I can see the benefit of using a floating brace, overdoing the H brace because you do not have to do the extra work of putting in an extra post, but in that case they’re actually putting in a second brace post. Is there an advantage to that set up versus an H brace it almost looks like that would take longer to do once you get done with all the cutting and fitting? Another one of my wireman grapples on my strainer is failing. I’m not real impressed with that product. I think I’m gonna buy a strain right grappler to put in there as we have a dealer here in the states that I can buy from locally.
Hey mate, no. no advantage. Just another way of doing the end assembly job that's really popular in some regions. Regional practices are really unique in Australia. Sorry to hear about your strainer issues.
Wow !
However if you are putting up Rabbit fencing you can't use ground stays. Yes the rabbits do use them as a bridge
100 percent excellent !
My 10c ..... stays are too high ... 2mtr deer fences we where about 700mm ... "normal" 1100mm stock fence 500 to top of stay... if in soft ground a breast block on the post down 500mm oppersite the stay..
Two good teams.
However, the 2nd team gets my tick of approval as trainer/assessor and fencer as this is how we teach/ train. As I always say to my students, there is more than one way to fence (skin a cat!😀).
The chainsaw operator of the 2nd team obviously has his chainsaw certification!
That’ll keep those girls in
I do thousands of km of fencing in Australia.
Sorry to say but you guys are in the dark ages.
100 mm galvanised pipe by 2.5 long.
Drive it 1.5 into the ground.
Weld top and angle brace and it'll be there long after your gone.
Immune to bushfire, white ants ,rotting the lot.
You’re missing a huge point of these videos mate… celebrating skills in all forms. Being positive and open minded about what others do. Where these guys fence it’s all timber and they have their reasons. I’ve done a stack, and will do more on steel fencing and use it myself. That’s no reason not to celebrate skills I don’t use. I’m loving learning and growing, not entrenched and stuck. It’s hilarious that timber fencers from other countries have also had a crack without stopping to think that maybe another country has different materials, soil and conditions. Never judge someone unless you first get to know them I say. Anyway, safe travels and stay positive.
We don't all own stations. I use timber from the bush because I can't afford anything else. I think most who own 100 or so acres are in the same boat
I just want a THOR hammer‼️‼️
Na bugger that, that's why I always built box stays faster and easier and if done well will last a long time
I liked the first way less manual lifting in and out shit fuckun wrecks ya body
Good day mate, great tool , dog set up on tip of bar, now I am in Canada,
Could you give me a price on this tool of your Dad^s.
Thanks mate , have a great season, play safe, be strong, stay healthy,
KB, Koala Bob
ruralfencing.com/
The stay block will work better if it was horizontal. All these fencers need to head to N.Z. To learn how to fence. These are all learning bad habits.
You are overlooking the difference between the two countries. You fence in very different conditions. I would be very happy to showcase your skills and trechniques such as deadman stays. I would never disrespect a tradesman from a different country or culture.
@@FarmLearningTimwould be great if you were able to do a video like this on NZ style, from what I understand their conditions are more similar to here in the UK
@@NorthFenFarm if I get the chance I will. For some conditions that style of fencing is best.
Why is it the smallest countries have the biggest mouths ?
@@jonathanfriedlander8563 clearly because we are better. haha
every cripple has their own way of walking