This is the standard sort of brace I use in the UK. Doesn’t take me long now to set one up. I tend to position it at a 1/3 of the height of the post (out of the ground). That copper namphate preserver is great stuff because you can see where you’ve covered super easily.
I'd love to see you 'break test' some different brace designs - set them up side by side then pull along their loading plane with a big skid steer, with a tension guage in the system or something!
I can see the wire rotting in the ground after about five to tens years depending on the type of soil. A lot of extra work when the same could be accomplished with a typical H brace.
@Hotrodford It doesn't matter if the wire rusts off a foot over time. The idea is to stop the post lifting up with the tension of the wire. You only use them in dips or soft ground. Even when the wire rusts off a foot makes the post way way harder to lift out and an H brace doesn't do a similar job at all.
Who is going to go through this trouble and expense? A ratchet strainer and the same wire you will be secure and finished foe about 6 bucks and 10 minutes
@@SWiFence How do you build your pipe braces? I build mine with a 10' cross piece for the "h" and my posts are usually 3' in the ground. Even at that I've some pull to the weight of the hi-tensile wire.
@@westonandelin4556 You should put some N braces on where the one side is basically at the ground or close to the ground so then when you pull on from the opposite side as it pulls toward the side that's lower to the ground it will be stronger than an H brace even if it doesn't look as good and you can also put an H brace above it if you wanted.
You wanna know what I believe is a cheap, fast and easy way to make HN braces? I haven't actually done it exactly like this before but if you're using 2 3/8" vertical pipe posts for exapple put them just over 4 1/2 feet wide from each other and by 1 10' long 1 3/8" post and cut it at 4 1/2' on one side and 5 1/2' on the other side and buy the 95 cent end caps, 4 for each HN brace along with the $1.98 2 3/8" Brace bands as well as the little bag of the bolts and nuts that fit with it and you'll have really cheap, easy and affordable HN braces so what you do is you put one side of the longer piece of the 1 3/8 post basically at the ground on the inside of your brace where your fence will be pulling toward it with the other side higher up as tight to the next post as possible and put your ends on them with the brace bands bolted tight and then right above that high side you put your level H brace part of the post with wnd caps and brace bands bolted tight also and you might think the 1 3/8 posts aren't very strong fir HN braces but those are the exact same posts that are used in chain link fencing for the top part and people constantly climb them and step on them and they do give some and bend some but that's when they're straight at over 10 feet long and you can cut the few inches section off that is smaller that goes into the other side with another one of those posts when they're used for the chain link fencing but have one side be about a foot longer which will be your N brace but the H brace has to basically be perfect where it barely fits Straight across and your angled brace will be barely under it with the low side just about at the ground and you have an affordable quick and easy HN brace right there and I've used these posts and done that using angle braces into the ground straight but I haven't done it exactly quite this way above ground yet with H and N both but I intend to soon and you can get all that stuff at home depot.
Seems like overkill to me, and a huge outlay of capital in equipment. I’m not sure how effective this would be in Alberta Canada. Your foot that you originally installed would be pushed out by frost in this part of the word and would actually work as a plug for the frost to push against. Likewise with your buried in deadman. Up here, the key is to have your corner (king) post at least 4’ into the ground to get below frost line. Put a horizontal or diagonal brace notched into two 19:06 posts and tightened with twisted diagonal wire. The longer the brace, the stronger the brace. I can build one of these in less than 3 minutes and have 100 yards of posts pounded before you can build one of your braces, and mine will last as long as your’s. I am also concerned with how much you compromise the treatment on your diagonal post with your planer. Painted on treatments are never as good as pressure treated, and the chemicals are unhealthy. All this is unnecessary, up here because we don’t use much hi-tensile, just barbwire.
perma frost isnt something we come up against and how like is doing it is how its done in NZ, AUS , UK, I always say that its not how fast you build it, its how well you build it that counts (Uk fencer with 40 years experiance)
YA JUST NEED A BIT MORE EQUIPMENT TO MAKE THE JOB A BIT EASIER OH ASK AN ORCADIAN HIS OPINION HE WOULD HAVE IT DONE WHILE YOU LOT WERE TALKING ABOUT IT JEEEZE
HI DENISE! NO NEED TO SHOUT! 😀 This may surprise you, but the point of an explainer video is to explain. You'll have to forgive us for taking time out of the day to try to share knowledge with the world. But if we see any orcadians we will ask them. 👍🏻 We're always happy to learn from other people. A trait we hope becomes more common. 🙂
Okay Hannah. Sorry our paltry efforts at sharing knowledge didn't please you. The next time we go out and work in the mud just to make a video you're welcome to skip it.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Sneaking [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ILUps2zDFU/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the standard sort of brace I use in the UK. Doesn’t take me long now to set one up. I tend to position it at a 1/3 of the height of the post (out of the ground). That copper namphate preserver is great stuff because you can see where you’ve covered super easily.
I'd love to see you 'break test' some different brace designs - set them up side by side then pull along their loading plane with a big skid steer, with a tension guage in the system or something!
This is probably my favorite video. The long format i think would do well for you guys especially with the lil tidbits of knowledge.
Cute video boys, appreciate you sharing your knowledge
This is top soil where I come from... Yup laughed pretty good at that.
iterations of this are very common in the British Isles along with NZ and Australia and the kiwis are wire fence experts
For sure! We get a lot of our inspiration from them. 👍🏻
I can see the wire rotting in the ground after about five to tens years depending on the type of soil. A lot of extra work when the same could be accomplished with a typical H brace.
You have no idea what a foot is for if you think an h brace does the same thing.
@@thebighectaresI know that wire rusts away when it’s under soil.
@Hotrodford It doesn't matter if the wire rusts off a foot over time.
The idea is to stop the post lifting up with the tension of the wire. You only use them in dips or soft ground.
Even when the wire rusts off a foot makes the post way way harder to lift out and an H brace doesn't do a similar job at all.
I carry that machine in the bed of my pickup. Sometimes in emergency I just whip out my 20 ft hand twist auger with 3 inch bit
How many feet of standard page wire fence with wood posts can you guys do daily on average?
I'd say around 1200' a day.
These things look solid. But you'd have to charge a mint to use them across a big ranch due the labor?!
Not really. They may cost just a little bit more but not enough to matter in the overall scheme of things. The right crew can put them in pretty fast.
I live on solid lava rock. It's like the Lord poured me a nice slab and all I have to do is drill holes where I want them.
😮
Who is going to go through this trouble and expense? A ratchet strainer and the same wire you will be secure and finished foe about 6 bucks and 10 minutes
Why? Is this for an Elephant Herd?
This takes forever. Come to Florida with that camera. I’ll show yall how to do it right every time and make money on the way.
Well we don't take this long when we're not showing people and filming it of course. 😁
I’m just not a fan of this brace it’s very time consuming and not economical for large scale fencing
Honestly we aren’t a fan of wood braces period. Pipe is the way.
@@SWiFence I agree just not a huge demand for it where I’m located
@@SWiFence How do you build your pipe braces? I build mine with a 10' cross piece for the "h" and my posts are usually 3' in the ground. Even at that I've some pull to the weight of the hi-tensile wire.
@@westonandelin4556 You should put some N braces on where the one side is basically at the ground or close to the ground so then when you pull on from the opposite side as it pulls toward the side that's lower to the ground it will be stronger than an H brace even if it doesn't look as good and you can also put an H brace above it if you wanted.
You wanna know what I believe is a cheap, fast and easy way to make HN braces? I haven't actually done it exactly like this before but if you're using 2 3/8" vertical pipe posts for exapple put them just over 4 1/2 feet wide from each other and by 1 10' long 1 3/8" post and cut it at 4 1/2' on one side and 5 1/2' on the other side and buy the 95 cent end caps, 4 for each HN brace along with the $1.98 2 3/8" Brace bands as well as the little bag of the bolts and nuts that fit with it and you'll have really cheap, easy and affordable HN braces so what you do is you put one side of the longer piece of the 1 3/8 post basically at the ground on the inside of your brace where your fence will be pulling toward it with the other side higher up as tight to the next post as possible and put your ends on them with the brace bands bolted tight and then right above that high side you put your level H brace part of the post with wnd caps and brace bands bolted tight also and you might think the 1 3/8 posts aren't very strong fir HN braces but those are the exact same posts that are used in chain link fencing for the top part and people constantly climb them and step on them and they do give some and bend some but that's when they're straight at over 10 feet long and you can cut the few inches section off that is smaller that goes into the other side with another one of those posts when they're used for the chain link fencing but have one side be about a foot longer which will be your N brace but the H brace has to basically be perfect where it barely fits Straight across and your angled brace will be barely under it with the low side just about at the ground and you have an affordable quick and easy HN brace right there and I've used these posts and done that using angle braces into the ground straight but I haven't done it exactly quite this way above ground yet with H and N both but I intend to soon and you can get all that stuff at home depot.
the japanesey joinerary is might fine except I cant figger out how I'm gonna fit that planer in my saddlebags...
Trade in the horse for a helicopter maybe?
Nice if someone is paying you by the hour to build and you need to justify your expensive unnecessary equipment.
Wow! C'mon, Seth! Tell us what you really think! 😑
people DONT put rum in their cereal?😮
Seems like overkill to me, and a huge outlay of capital in equipment. I’m not sure how effective this would be in Alberta Canada. Your foot that you originally installed would be pushed out by frost in this part of the word and would actually work as a plug for the frost to push against. Likewise with your buried in deadman. Up here, the key is to have your corner (king) post at least 4’ into the ground to get below frost line. Put a horizontal or diagonal brace notched into two 19:06 posts and tightened with twisted diagonal wire. The longer the brace, the stronger the brace. I can build one of these in less than 3 minutes and have 100 yards of posts pounded before you can build one of your braces, and mine will last as long as your’s. I am also concerned with how much you compromise the treatment on your diagonal post with your planer. Painted on treatments are never as good as pressure treated, and the chemicals are unhealthy. All this is unnecessary, up here because we don’t use much hi-tensile, just barbwire.
perma frost isnt something we come up against and how like is doing it is how its done in NZ, AUS , UK,
I always say that its not how fast you build it, its how well you build it that counts (Uk fencer with 40 years experiance)
No
Don’t be surprised if you start to see many more of this style in the coming years.
Not for me!
Spending way to much time and expensive equipment just building a fence brace. This isn’t cost effective for most stockmen.
This is far from best. Takes much longer and requires more tools than how we do it here. Its definitely the best way if your getting paid by the hour.
We slowed down considerably for the video.
YA JUST NEED A BIT MORE EQUIPMENT TO MAKE THE JOB A BIT EASIER OH ASK AN ORCADIAN HIS OPINION HE WOULD HAVE IT DONE WHILE YOU LOT WERE TALKING ABOUT IT JEEEZE
HI DENISE! NO NEED TO SHOUT! 😀 This may surprise you, but the point of an explainer video is to explain. You'll have to forgive us for taking time out of the day to try to share knowledge with the world. But if we see any orcadians we will ask them. 👍🏻 We're always happy to learn from other people. A trait we hope becomes more common. 🙂
@@SWiFence
Thanks for actually slowing down to show to do this. Some of us like to learn & appreciate the knowledge gained. 👍🏻
Learn how to build fence city slickers 😅 too slow
Oh we can build much faster than that. It was a learning exercise.
ruclips.net/video/EVeu8Q8onwY/видео.html
Takes to long.
This demo has been slowed down considerably. And we like the fact it's much less prone to failure.
You must be on a day rate
Okay Hannah. Sorry our paltry efforts at sharing knowledge didn't please you. The next time we go out and work in the mud just to make a video you're welcome to skip it.