Thanks for posting! I have a little issue with mine in first gear. It's manageable when blending it out with the clutch. In fact I never even considered fixing it because it's such a minor problem. I'm just appreciative that you went out of your way to thoroughly troubleshoot the issue for us lazy guys! Thanks again! Keep posting!
I was frustrated by the highly sensitive and jerky low throttle response. Tried lots of solutions and I finally went to the Dynojet Power Commander V. Solved all my isses.
Best video on this subject hands down. I watched another gentleman's first. It was worth learning from, but your video was clearer, shorter, and helped me realize that the screws could be more accessible. I rarely do this, but I almost thumbs downed the other guy, but I for sure gave you a thumbs up. I don't know if you've considered different oils for your Yamaha, but I've done an experiment and I'll do another if you'd like to come check it out.
Thanks for posting the video despite the lack of results, and for the honesty. My bike has the twitchy throttle too, and I was looking for ways to fix it. My fear was that claims of this mod working might just be due to the placebo effect.
If go for a fuel programmer, go for the power commander V. It's definitely worth the money. My bike felt like a totally new better one after i installed it. Trust me. Nice video by the way, didn't know that you can access that kind of information on the bike's screen. Thanks and greetings from Switzerland.
Great video. Such a perplexing problem that's it good to get this solid information. It's helps to see how much effort is involved and the possibility that it doesn't work. Thanks!
Mine jerks like crazy! So bad you couldn't ride at slow speeds without working the clutch hard. I tried larger rear sprocket, throttle tamer, and fuel programmer (with full FMF pipe). Nothing helped it completely. It might be a little better now. The larger rear sprocket was the best upgrade though. Much easier to ride. Thanks for the video! I was going to try this fix but seeing it didn't work for you, think I will skip it for now.
You can reduce engine braking by changing the ignition timing... You need a dyno tuner to do it. I had it done to a bike and there was so much less jerking
I think you should have pointed the camera to the part where the throttle body meets the intake sleeve. Essentially by pulling backward you are disconnecting the throttle body from the sleeve. Once out you can then rotate the throttle body such that the TPS comes into view, it's really difficult to work in that small space. Took me a few days to get that sorted out
I just saw that this is a few years old, but I’ll still give my response, for the benefit of anyone with this problem. I fitted a Booster Plug to my WR and it cured the snatchy throttle and smoothed things out nicely, relatively cheap at about £100.
@bob bobinson. As best as I can describe it, The Booster Plug fools the ECU into thinking that the ambient temperature is lower than it actually is. The ECU then delivers more fuel to the injector. Google “Booster Plug” , they do models for many different bikes.
Do you have exhaust or air box mods? Do you have an a/f controller? I had a problem like this when I had mods and my Power Commander 5 map was not good. I got a dyno tune and it never stalled again.
So, around 1 year later now. Still got the bike? Have you fixed the issue? I just bought a WR250R myself and have noticed a slight jerkyness when rolling on the throttle. Has a very 'on' or 'off' feeling to it. Have changed to a 47 tooth sprocket on the rear which has helped quite a bit. Also have the G2 throttle tamer on the way. Hope this fixed it. Good work on the video btw, helps a lot.
Have you fixed the issue? I have not done any mods at all to the bike except change sprockets to mine. The one thing I have done recently is remove my baffle from he bike which made it much louder of course but also seemed to fix the issue you were trying to resolve. I wasn't looking to fix the issue myself its just something that I had noticed when removing the baffle. Quick and easy 2 minute fix. Hope this helps.
Hey did you fix the problem? I was going nuts trying to fix mine. Played with the fueling on different maps on my pcv and nothing. I picked up a 2010 wrx last summer with 5000kms on it. I was starting to think that the dealer rolled back the odometer and it was a value issue. Turns out, I put way too much oil my last oil change. Sucked some out with a plastic syringe and it purrs like a kitten now. Might not be your issue but it's worth looking into.
+Glen Goncalves Still haven't fixed the issue. I put on a G2 throttle tamer but honestly I couldn't tell much difference. So let's say your bike's engine is off and cool, and you're holding it up straight (not on the kickstand). Where do you see the oil in the site glass? That'd be worth trying.
+Pizdzirynka1 Good luck man, it's a simple job. Let me know your results. You may not need to take off that clamp on the air intake that I talk about at 4:35. It's kind of a pain to get that clamp back on so try first just loosening both rather than loosening one and removing one. I thought about removing the AIS but since I still have the stock exhaust there's a chance taking it out can plug up the catalytic converter, or so I've read.
+fender7802 thanks man, ill let you how that went, oh thats right, didnt think about as i got my bike with aftermarket pipe already, nevertheless bike is a lot more responsive with ais removed
+D'Elia Dualsport Glad it helped! Hopefully he has better results. Seems like it's a 50/50 chance it'll work or not. Playing with the idle and stock fuel injection settings even if the TPS doesn't do anything might make a tiny difference. I'm going to buy the G2 dirt tamer and see if that helps things.
I solved this problem by getting rid of EPA stuff and also taping down flapper in air box, its not you or the throttle its the bikes air flow that causes this problem i found out
Hey man, I did exactly the same thing as you with taping down the flapper but really couldn't notice a difference unfortunately. I replaced the flapper back to stock a while ago but am thinking about taping it down again for the heck of it. So what else did you do, remove the AIS? I was a little cautious of that since I still have the stock exhaust system.
you will be fine with stock exh i thought the same thing but looked up more on it and it really dos not do much (-) to the bike, but if you have a after exh it is a must
you might have a faulty throttle body that's the only thing i could think of it also might be user error make shor your gloves fit snog and don't grip bars hard, take it slow and move up from there ^^
Cool I'll rethink taking the AIS off. I'm having my dealer do the stator recall this week, and I'll have him take a look at the throttle jerkiness, see if he has any ideas.
A very slow throttle solves this problem. I made mine from a ttr 230 tube machined to give about 3/8 turn to full throttle. Now I can run 12/52 sprockets with no off idle lurch in first .
Here's some information... The Yamaha WR450F is an off-road motorcycle made by Yamaha Motor Company. It currently has a 450 cc (27 cu in) liquid-cooled single-cylinder engine. First offered in 1998 at 400cc, it shared many components and design concepts with the YZ400F motocross model. It is basically the racing YZ450F detuned slightly for more controllable power, with a headlight and lighting coil, softer suspension, a kickstand, lower noise specifications, larger radiators and lower emissions. The WR in the name indicates a wide-ratio gear box common to most enduro or trail bikes and stands in contrast to the close-ratio gearbox essential to a motocross racer. Over the years the WR has benefited from the advances made in the YZ motocross version gaining displacement and advancements such as an aluminum frame and improved suspension. Over much of its life the weight of the WR450F has remained fairly constant ranging from 244 to 249 pounds dry weight.
Thanks for posting! I have a little issue with mine in first gear. It's manageable when blending it out with the clutch. In fact I never even considered fixing it because it's such a minor problem. I'm just appreciative that you went out of your way to thoroughly troubleshoot the issue for us lazy guys! Thanks again! Keep posting!
I found taking all the slack out of the throttle cable helped my wr250r a lot. At least it was a lot less work than this! Props for doing this though.
I was frustrated by the highly sensitive and jerky low throttle response. Tried lots of solutions and I finally went to the Dynojet Power Commander V. Solved all my isses.
A well made video. I'm sure people will find this helpful. For one thing they will see what they are in for if they decide to try the TPS adjustment.
Best video on this subject hands down. I watched another gentleman's first. It was worth learning from, but your video was clearer, shorter, and helped me realize that the screws could be more accessible. I rarely do this, but I almost thumbs downed the other guy, but I for sure gave you a thumbs up. I don't know if you've considered different oils for your Yamaha, but I've done an experiment and I'll do another if you'd like to come check it out.
Thanks for posting the video despite the lack of results, and for the honesty. My bike has the twitchy throttle too, and I was looking for ways to fix it. My fear was that claims of this mod working might just be due to the placebo effect.
If go for a fuel programmer, go for the power commander V. It's definitely worth the money. My bike felt like a totally new better one after i installed it. Trust me.
Nice video by the way, didn't know that you can access that kind of information on the bike's screen.
Thanks and greetings from Switzerland.
I didn't know about getting to the screen either. That's awesome all by itself.
What map did you do? Was it as easy as must just sending that map?
Great video. Such a perplexing problem that's it good to get this solid information. It's helps to see how much effort is involved and the possibility that it doesn't work. Thanks!
Did you ever figure out a solution?
Mine jerks like crazy! So bad you couldn't ride at slow speeds without working the clutch hard.
I tried larger rear sprocket, throttle tamer, and fuel programmer (with full FMF pipe). Nothing helped it completely. It might be a little better now.
The larger rear sprocket was the best upgrade though. Much easier to ride.
Thanks for the video! I was going to try this fix but seeing it didn't work for you, think I will skip it for now.
Great info fender7802. I haven't seen anything on this before. Very thorough, and well done. Thanks for sharing!
+Old Guy Moto Freaking You got it man, if you try it I hope it helps!
Yeah my 2020 is so jerky at low speeds I'm going to have to try this.
fixed mostly with fuel programmer, took a while to find the right numbers but much smoother now
What did your adjustments look like? I have stage 1 mods for my ejk controller
@@jesseondrumsjd these numbers worked by far the best, no high speed cut out and smoother throttle response, 2,3,2,7,6,3
You can reduce engine braking by changing the ignition timing... You need a dyno tuner to do it. I had it done to a bike and there was so much less jerking
I think you should have pointed the camera to the part where the throttle body meets the intake sleeve. Essentially by pulling backward you are disconnecting the throttle body from the sleeve. Once out you can then rotate the throttle body such that the TPS comes into view, it's really difficult to work in that small space. Took me a few days to get that sorted out
I just saw that this is a few years old, but I’ll still give my response, for the benefit of anyone with this problem. I fitted a Booster Plug to my WR and it cured the snatchy throttle and smoothed things out nicely, relatively cheap at about £100.
What is a booster plug and where can I get it
@bob bobinson. As best as I can describe it, The Booster Plug fools the ECU into thinking that the ambient temperature is lower than it actually is. The ECU then delivers more fuel to the injector. Google “Booster Plug” , they do models for many different bikes.
@@longjonwhite thanks I will try. This problem is very annoying.
Do you know if this will fix my problem, sometimes when abruptly releasing throttle and wires WR250R will just die , even with the clutch held in.
Do you have exhaust or air box mods? Do you have an a/f controller? I had a problem like this when I had mods and my Power Commander 5 map was not good. I got a dyno tune and it never stalled again.
this was happening to me, my fuel tank return vacuum line was disconnected
Isn't the jerkyness related to the chain tentioning? Perhaps your chain is not stiff enough. Just a thought.
So, around 1 year later now. Still got the bike? Have you fixed the issue? I just bought a WR250R myself and have noticed a slight jerkyness when rolling on the throttle. Has a very 'on' or 'off' feeling to it. Have changed to a 47 tooth sprocket on the rear which has helped quite a bit. Also have the G2 throttle tamer on the way. Hope this fixed it. Good work on the video btw, helps a lot.
Have you fixed the issue? I have not done any mods at all to the bike except change sprockets to mine. The one thing I have done recently is remove my baffle from he bike which made it much louder of course but also seemed to fix the issue you were trying to resolve. I wasn't looking to fix the issue myself its just something that I had noticed when removing the baffle. Quick and easy 2 minute fix. Hope this helps.
Which baffle?
Did you ever try the throttle tamer? I love mine. Technical work in first gear is much easier
Mine is jerky in 1st gear and in 2nd gear. is yours jerky when you give it just a tiny bit of throttle?
What do you do when code 15 throttle position sensor error code pops up
Hey did you fix the problem? I was going nuts trying to fix mine. Played with the fueling on different maps on my pcv and nothing. I picked up a 2010 wrx last summer with 5000kms on it. I was starting to think that the dealer rolled back the odometer and it was a value issue. Turns out, I put way too much oil my last oil change. Sucked some out with a plastic syringe and it purrs like a kitten now. Might not be your issue but it's worth looking into.
+Glen Goncalves Still haven't fixed the issue. I put on a G2 throttle tamer but honestly I couldn't tell much difference. So let's say your bike's engine is off and cool, and you're holding it up straight (not on the kickstand). Where do you see the oil in the site glass? That'd be worth trying.
Hey Glen can you let me know where the oil in the site glass is with the bike cool?
very clear video, im going to try this on my bike this weekend. By the way, you should do the AIS Removal on your bike :)
+Pizdzirynka1 Good luck man, it's a simple job. Let me know your results. You may not need to take off that clamp on the air intake that I talk about at 4:35. It's kind of a pain to get that clamp back on so try first just loosening both rather than loosening one and removing one. I thought about removing the AIS but since I still have the stock exhaust there's a chance taking it out can plug up the catalytic converter, or so I've read.
+fender7802 thanks man, ill let you how that went, oh thats right, didnt think about as i got my bike with aftermarket pipe already, nevertheless bike is a lot more responsive with ais removed
I might end up trying it. I kind of wanted to leave all that alone but would like a little bit more responsiveness out of the bike.
Great video my bros is having the same symptoms
+D'Elia Dualsport Glad it helped! Hopefully he has better results. Seems like it's a 50/50 chance it'll work or not. Playing with the idle and stock fuel injection settings even if the TPS doesn't do anything might make a tiny difference. I'm going to buy the G2 dirt tamer and see if that helps things.
@@fender7802 dud the throttle tamer help the wr250r jerkiness?
I need information for wr450f please. ... thanks
I solved this problem by getting rid of EPA stuff and also taping down flapper in air box, its not you or the throttle its the bikes air flow that causes this problem i found out
Hey man, I did exactly the same thing as you with taping down the flapper but really couldn't notice a difference unfortunately. I replaced the flapper back to stock a while ago but am thinking about taping it down again for the heck of it. So what else did you do, remove the AIS? I was a little cautious of that since I still have the stock exhaust system.
lol just saw you watched my video on the flapper mod XD
you will be fine with stock exh i thought the same thing but looked up more on it and it really dos not do much (-) to the bike, but if you have a after exh it is a must
you might have a faulty throttle body that's the only thing i could think of it also might be user error make shor your gloves fit snog and don't grip bars hard, take it slow and move up from there ^^
Cool I'll rethink taking the AIS off. I'm having my dealer do the stator recall this week, and I'll have him take a look at the throttle jerkiness, see if he has any ideas.
A very slow throttle solves this problem. I made mine from a ttr 230 tube machined to give about 3/8 turn to full throttle. Now I can run 12/52 sprockets with no off idle lurch in first .
Can you be more specific, please!
Is the wr250r normally jerky?
Cant reach the screwss?m
What year?
16
AHH IT AINT THAT BAD BRO...YOUR JUST A SOFTY.Mabey the bike is more manly than you get a 150 kawi
Don't be a jerk. I would never do this much work, but I appreciate this level of commitment!!!
I need information for wr450f please. ... thanks
Here's some information... The Yamaha WR450F is an off-road motorcycle made by Yamaha Motor Company. It currently has a 450 cc (27 cu in) liquid-cooled single-cylinder engine. First offered in 1998 at 400cc, it shared many components and design concepts with the YZ400F motocross model. It is basically the racing YZ450F detuned slightly for more controllable power, with a headlight and lighting coil, softer suspension, a kickstand, lower noise specifications, larger radiators and lower emissions. The WR in the name indicates a wide-ratio gear box common to most enduro or trail bikes and stands in contrast to the close-ratio gearbox essential to a motocross racer. Over the years the WR has benefited from the advances made in the YZ motocross version gaining displacement and advancements such as an aluminum frame and improved suspension. Over much of its life the weight of the WR450F has remained fairly constant ranging from 244 to 249 pounds dry weight.