I went shopping for my first bow on Tuesday at my local pro shop... I told the guy I was a lefty, and he said he only had one lefty bow in stock, and it was used.... Turned out to be a Hoyt Nitrum 30 in near perfect condition with an HHA Optimizer Lite King Pin sight, Trophy Ridge drop away rest, and 4 really nice arrows in a matching Hoyt quiver... Total price: $400.... Considering I was going in there for a Bear Species, I was ecstatic lol
At least in archery a lefty bow costs the same as a righty bow. Unlike rifle shooting... Where leftys are screwed over twice... You pay more for the thing when you buy it new and given less when your trade it in.
Northy TRUTH BRO!!! I’m currently building an AR, and I’ve already had to spend an extra hundred bucks for ambi parts, and I’m not even done yet... they call it the devils hand for a reason lol
I still shoot and love my Nitrum!!! I just can't justify $$ for a new one! I just put over 500 in new parts on it, so maybe next year I will finally upgrade to a new one and transfer my new stuff over to a new flagship.
My first compound bow was a Reflex Bighorn Hunter which I bought new off the rack at Dick's sporting goods locally. Since then I've owned over 30 different bows and learned (mostly self taught) everything I could about archery and compound bows. I do all my own work/modifications on my bows/arrows and all my equipment....I even built my own arrow saw (a lot like the Weston saws). I don't expect everyone to do that (and, I expect, the local archery shops pray you don't either!!), but it is quite gratifying and satisfying to be able to know that if anything happens, you can do your own shop work yourself.
Ive made my own arrow saw, fletching jig, string jig and bow press. I think every archer should know and should take the time to learn how to setup their bows and make a strings and arrows. Even if after that they choose to throw money at the archery shop. You really do get chest puffing points when you make and shoot your own stuff, knowing that you are responsible for your own quality control and not relying on the dude at the 'pro shop' to get it right for you.. Hell you may as well just ask him to shoot your bow for you too at the same time and pay him for the privilege.
As someone who’s looking to buy a bow and get into archery hunting within the next year, this video is great! Thanks for giving us info that’ll help protect us newbies 😉
Great informative video. I have not purchased a pre-owned bow, but that was very good! I have 2 bows that I am contemplating selling, and what you stated should help me in testing the waters. Keep it up, man! Great stuff.
I like with archery that if you have a set of accessories that you had with your old bow, you can usually bring that set over to a new bow. You won't be buying a new rest, sight, and stabilizers most of the time if you keep to a certain style of archery
I bought a Bear Threat RTH for $100.00 at my local pawn. Came with a soft case, three releases and wax. Took it to the pro shop to get it tuned and they told me they restrung that exact bow less than six months ago. $100 bucks. It doesn't always take a ton of money to get into the game. Just get into the game.
Out of all the archery equipment I have bought a bow press was definitely one of the best investments. Mainly because I prefer doing things myself and becoming proficient over time.
I wish bows were easier to upgrade. You know, limbs, limb pockets and cams in addition the just the modules. If they standardized the attachments and limb dimensions, the space could get very interesting and more competitive.
The recurve has the right idea with the ILF system. Compounds are just too dadgum complicated. The biggest issue is actually string dimensions more than anything. No lineup has the same string specs for two bows in their own lineup. It's insane.
@@averagejackarchery it bothers the heck out of me. I've been trying to make a custom bow, but it's hard to predict the Ata length based on the height of the riser (custom). You'd be surprised how cheap cnc machining has become. I'd say the riser is one of the cheaper parts to make.
I don't suggest getting a bow that needs new modules for every draw length if you're dealing with a teenager or someone who hasn't grown to adult size, considering Matthews for example, needs new modules for every draw length, it's not going to be fun to be shooting and then realizing you grown enough that you need another inch of draw length and have to put down another 60 dollars for a new module every single time...
Ive never bought a used bow, but, I guess its similar to buying a used car... Condition, condition, condition is the key. If its been beat up and looks battered... Walk on by. There will be another and its not worth the headache and money of putting it right.
4:28 - Compound bow string and cables need to be replaced every few thousand shots? That seems crazy often, since I've been doing about a thousand a week with my recurve in recent months.
It all depends on how you treat them. For me I don't even count the shots as I shoot so much year round and basically end up replacing string sets yearly or 1.5 years. And compounds see much more violent collisions of strings and cables against slides, modules, cams, and string stops at usually much high poundage than a recurve or long bow.
It makes plenty of sense that a heavy compound would need new strings way more often than my light recurve. I'm not trying to be nit-picky, I'm genuinely curious. If you're replacing your strings every few thousand shots, and a few is about 3, and you're replacing your strings a max of once a year, that's only 58 shots a week?
I think I've heard some guys getting 10s of thousands of shots from their sets. Its really all about inspecting their condition over time. Sometimes the string material is fine and its the serving thatll need a redo. Centre serving especially and if you fine tune draw kength through cables you'll break apart the serving depending on string quality.
@@DarxusC Some manufacturers seem to wear thru strings quicker than others. Thats just down to bow design and how the strings and cables track thru cable slides and around the cams etc. I shoot a fair bit and the string/cables on my main bow start to look ratty after a year. My recurve string is 3 years old.. Ive had to repair the serving on the end loops, but its still going strong.
Question, so I don't have any equipment yet, except for a bow, I'm looking at binos and range finders. Right now for archery and even for gun. I'm looking at the vortex impact 1000 ($199) and (on sale) vortex crossfire HD 10x42 with glasspack harness and a vortex hat ($119). Are those good beginner equipment? Thank you! Oh I don't know if you remember me, I bought that bowtech BT-X 28, I went to another bowtech dealer and they said I didn't need new limbs. The first place that I went to told me that I needed new limbs ($175 + $20labor), + $150 for AAB string and cables, while the new place wants ($150 in-house string and cables)
I have used cheaper range finders my whole career as I'm only worried about 50 and in usually. And truly 30 and in for ethical bow shots. So I can't speak for those. For the binos I own the Vortex Diamondback 10x42 and they are excellent bang for the buck.
@@averagejackarchery so I was actually looking at cheap range finders, some people are selling those simmons protarget for $35-45. But some reviews say they're inaccurate. What's a cheap range finder that you'd trust?
MANY of the "E-Bay" bows for sale are ones that have been picked up at yard, or Estate sales...the "seller" knows NOTHING about the bow other than his desire to make a quick buck...
I went shopping for my first bow on Tuesday at my local pro shop... I told the guy I was a lefty, and he said he only had one lefty bow in stock, and it was used.... Turned out to be a Hoyt Nitrum 30 in near perfect condition with an HHA Optimizer Lite King Pin sight, Trophy Ridge drop away rest, and 4 really nice arrows in a matching Hoyt quiver... Total price: $400.... Considering I was going in there for a Bear Species, I was ecstatic lol
At least in archery a lefty bow costs the same as a righty bow.
Unlike rifle shooting... Where leftys are screwed over twice... You pay more for the thing when you buy it new and given less when your trade it in.
Northy TRUTH BRO!!! I’m currently building an AR, and I’ve already had to spend an extra hundred bucks for ambi parts, and I’m not even done yet... they call it the devils hand for a reason lol
I still shoot and love my Nitrum!!! I just can't justify $$ for a new one! I just put over 500 in new parts on it, so maybe next year I will finally upgrade to a new one and transfer my new stuff over to a new flagship.
My first compound bow was a Reflex Bighorn Hunter which I bought new off the rack at Dick's sporting goods locally. Since then I've owned over 30 different bows and learned (mostly self taught) everything I could about archery and compound bows. I do all my own work/modifications on my bows/arrows and all my equipment....I even built my own arrow saw (a lot like the Weston saws).
I don't expect everyone to do that (and, I expect, the local archery shops pray you don't either!!), but it is quite gratifying and satisfying to be able to know that if anything happens, you can do your own shop work yourself.
Ive made my own arrow saw, fletching jig, string jig and bow press.
I think every archer should know and should take the time to learn how to setup their bows and make a strings and arrows. Even if after that they choose to throw money at the archery shop.
You really do get chest puffing points when you make and shoot your own stuff, knowing that you are responsible for your own quality control and not relying on the dude at the 'pro shop' to get it right for you.. Hell you may as well just ask him to shoot your bow for you too at the same time and pay him for the privilege.
As someone who’s looking to buy a bow and get into archery hunting within the next year, this video is great! Thanks for giving us info that’ll help protect us newbies 😉
Wireless mic now!!!! Steppin' on up! Love it man. Keep on keepin' on brother!
This video gave me some great insight & knowledge that saved me from buying a bow today with a split limb! Thanks man!!
Great informative video. I have not purchased a pre-owned bow, but that was very good! I have 2 bows that I am contemplating selling, and what you stated should help me in testing the waters. Keep it up, man! Great stuff.
I like with archery that if you have a set of accessories that you had with your old bow, you can usually bring that set over to a new bow. You won't be buying a new rest, sight, and stabilizers most of the time if you keep to a certain style of archery
I bought a Bear Threat RTH for $100.00 at my local pawn. Came with a soft case, three releases and wax. Took it to the pro shop to get it tuned and they told me they restrung that exact bow less than six months ago. $100 bucks. It doesn't always take a ton of money to get into the game. Just get into the game.
let me say this: you lucked out-pure and simple
Out of all the archery equipment I have bought a bow press was definitely one of the best investments. Mainly because I prefer doing things myself and becoming proficient over time.
well put together and well delivered. I think if you do work on your own bows it helps to get your eye in to spot problems.
Good info, wish I had this before I bought my bow that turns out has to short draw length.
Lots of gray advise ! Thanks
I wish bows were easier to upgrade. You know, limbs, limb pockets and cams in addition the just the modules. If they standardized the attachments and limb dimensions, the space could get very interesting and more competitive.
The recurve has the right idea with the ILF system. Compounds are just too dadgum complicated. The biggest issue is actually string dimensions more than anything. No lineup has the same string specs for two bows in their own lineup. It's insane.
@@averagejackarchery it bothers the heck out of me. I've been trying to make a custom bow, but it's hard to predict the Ata length based on the height of the riser (custom). You'd be surprised how cheap cnc machining has become. I'd say the riser is one of the cheaper parts to make.
I don't suggest getting a bow that needs new modules for every draw length if you're dealing with a teenager or someone who hasn't grown to adult size, considering Matthews for example, needs new modules for every draw length, it's not going to be fun to be shooting and then realizing you grown enough that you need another inch of draw length and have to put down another 60 dollars for a new module every single time...
Ive never bought a used bow, but, I guess its similar to buying a used car... Condition, condition, condition is the key. If its been beat up and looks battered... Walk on by. There will be another and its not worth the headache and money of putting it right.
I’m looking for a 55-60 pound 3D/target bow what would you suggest
Let's see - $600 for a used bow? Yep, that would be me sleeping out in the backyard. The wife would not be happy! 😒
Lol!
4:28 - Compound bow string and cables need to be replaced every few thousand shots? That seems crazy often, since I've been doing about a thousand a week with my recurve in recent months.
It all depends on how you treat them. For me I don't even count the shots as I shoot so much year round and basically end up replacing string sets yearly or 1.5 years. And compounds see much more violent collisions of strings and cables against slides, modules, cams, and string stops at usually much high poundage than a recurve or long bow.
It makes plenty of sense that a heavy compound would need new strings way more often than my light recurve. I'm not trying to be nit-picky, I'm genuinely curious. If you're replacing your strings every few thousand shots, and a few is about 3, and you're replacing your strings a max of once a year, that's only 58 shots a week?
I think I've heard some guys getting 10s of thousands of shots from their sets. Its really all about inspecting their condition over time. Sometimes the string material is fine and its the serving thatll need a redo. Centre serving especially and if you fine tune draw kength through cables you'll break apart the serving depending on string quality.
@@DarxusC Some manufacturers seem to wear thru strings quicker than others. Thats just down to bow design and how the strings and cables track thru cable slides and around the cams etc.
I shoot a fair bit and the string/cables on my main bow start to look ratty after a year.
My recurve string is 3 years old.. Ive had to repair the serving on the end loops, but its still going strong.
Question, so I don't have any equipment yet, except for a bow, I'm looking at binos and range finders. Right now for archery and even for gun. I'm looking at the vortex impact 1000 ($199) and (on sale) vortex crossfire HD 10x42 with glasspack harness and a vortex hat ($119). Are those good beginner equipment? Thank you!
Oh I don't know if you remember me, I bought that bowtech BT-X 28, I went to another bowtech dealer and they said I didn't need new limbs. The first place that I went to told me that I needed new limbs ($175 + $20labor), + $150 for AAB string and cables, while the new place wants ($150 in-house string and cables)
I have used cheaper range finders my whole career as I'm only worried about 50 and in usually. And truly 30 and in for ethical bow shots. So I can't speak for those. For the binos I own the Vortex Diamondback 10x42 and they are excellent bang for the buck.
@@averagejackarchery so I was actually looking at cheap range finders, some people are selling those simmons protarget for $35-45. But some reviews say they're inaccurate. What's a cheap range finder that you'd trust?
Price! ;)
MANY of the "E-Bay" bows for sale are ones that have been picked up at yard, or Estate sales...the "seller" knows NOTHING about the bow other than his desire to make a quick buck...