PICCADILLY N GAUGE MODEL RAILWAY- LOCOMOTIVE REPAIR & SERVICE - my 37 STOPPED WORKING!

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  • Опубликовано: 10 июл 2021
  • PICCADILLY N GAUGE MODEL RAILWAY- LOCOMOTIVE REPAIR & SERVICE - my 37 STOPPED WORKING!
    You may remember seeing 37 running very well in the last video, but much work had to be done to reach this stage. This video outlines the steps I went through to getting running again.
    In this video I:
    • Investigate the problem with the 37
    • Explain / demonstrate the steps I took in sequence.
    • Showed the testing procedures and next steps
    • See it running on the layout.
    BASICS SERIES
    If there is something you would like me to demonstrate please get in touch, I’ll see what can be done.
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Комментарии • 55

  • @jolliemark6294
    @jolliemark6294 3 года назад +2

    Glad you was able to get it running 👍👍👍👍

  • @roystudds1944
    @roystudds1944 3 года назад +1

    Excellent job John. Such patience! Roy.

  • @NicholassTrainChannel
    @NicholassTrainChannel 3 года назад +2

    Well done on getting it running again and you saved it which is even better.- Nicholas.

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      Thank you, was a bit strange, it ran beautifully when ran last. Something got dislodged lol

  • @tonyjones1662
    @tonyjones1662 3 года назад +1

    Hi John, well done it`s always the last thing you touch and find the trouble item stay safe all the best TONY [ GRIFFIN STATION ].

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      Hi Tony, most decoders are usually ok. Although the zimo decoders are often loose, why the pins and sockets are not standard I don’t know.

  • @medwaypeninsulaMR
    @medwaypeninsulaMR 3 года назад +2

    Well fixed John
    Cheers Kev

  • @davidblore3629
    @davidblore3629 3 года назад +2

    Very informative, many thanks👍

  • @SoRTs6233
    @SoRTs6233 2 года назад +1

    Don't know why it's taken me so long to find this video, but glad i did. Careful diagnosis, successful result! Will be 'bookmarking' this for future reference. Thanks John.

  • @normanrowe2831
    @normanrowe2831 3 года назад +3

    Well done Dr.Warner. You diagnosed correctly and saved the patient.

  • @Pixie586
    @Pixie586 3 года назад +1

    What a nightmare and so fiddly but glad you got it sorted. Susannah

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      Lol, naaaaa easily sorted honestly… if only other areas of life were sorted so easily. Lol. Hope you’re well?

  • @moorlandmodelrailwayandy
    @moorlandmodelrailwayandy 3 года назад +1

    Hi John my wife says it to me all the time, the lights are on but nobodies home lol. I wouldn't have had a clue what to do if I'd had that problem. This video is saved just in case thanks for sharing atb Andy

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      Ahhhh, I’m sure you could do it. Do bare in mind that this is N gauge, OO are built slightly different, but principles remain the same

  • @ksld
    @ksld 3 года назад +2

    Excellent! Thanks John very informative. I have a GF class 47 doing the same so I’ll watch yours again with loco in front of me…fingers crossed cheers Mike

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      Hi, the 47 is very similar in basic construction, however be careful of the light boards, they do have a habit of dislodging, and this can sometimes lead to a broken wire.

  • @exehavenharbour
    @exehavenharbour 3 года назад +1

    Nice one John, I have a Farish engine that does the same, I bought it second hand when I first started and it has never worked. I shall have a delve and see if I can get it going. I was going to use it as a practice for weathering but if I get it going it shall join the fleet.
    Thanks for sharing mate, cheers for now John, John

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад +1

      Yes let’s hope so John It’ll be great to see it working on your layout

  • @andrewstevenson5449
    @andrewstevenson5449 3 года назад +2

    Good fault tracing!

  • @route7railway567
    @route7railway567 3 года назад +2

    Nice job John. It’s always very satisfying when a fault is found, sorted and the loco is back up and running again 👍👍👍
    Regards….. Steve 🤗

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      Absolutely, thought it was bit strange it ran beautifully before, just not ran for about 5 mths

  • @matthewcampbell5877
    @matthewcampbell5877 3 года назад +4

    I can relate to this train, "The lights are working, but there is NO motor function." .... :')

    • @matthewcampbell5877
      @matthewcampbell5877 3 года назад +2

      Would also like to point out, I still do not own any item to relate to this hobby, but yet I watched the video in its entirety! Love this content. Thank you.

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад +1

      Ahhhh that’s so kind of you. It’s just a matter of time before you get yourself a set.

  • @roncarter5532
    @roncarter5532 3 года назад +2

    Thank John for an informative video. My Farish 47 had the same problem. However as it’s still under warranty I’ve sent it back to Bachman. Nice to know what to check should any of my locos fail out of warranty.
    Ron

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад +1

      You are very welcome Ron, most of mine are out of warranty, and esp that 37 as I bought it from Bachmann as a refurbished return. The 47s are very similar just need to be careful of directional lighting board.

  • @wimbletrain
    @wimbletrain 3 года назад +2

    Nice tip John with putting the wheels back on without damaging the pick ups. I made the mistake of pulling all the wheels off at once and then having lots of fun trying to put it all back together! John

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      Hi, you me alike then, have broken so many, it’s a new bogie. Can get expensive so I take it slow these days lol

  • @mikeuk1954
    @mikeuk1954 Год назад +1

    Those contact points for the motor on my models are always on the outside of the motor contact. Never seen them on the inside like you show.

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  Год назад

      Hi I spoke to Bachmann service dept about this and they basically said it doesn’t matter either way. As long as the loco works as it should, the contacts are rarely seen.

  • @wheezypalacemodels7726
    @wheezypalacemodels7726 3 года назад +2

    Hiya John, great video to use for future reference. Always great to see a Dr at work and again, you make it look so easy.. Cheers for now, Chris

  • @film49uk
    @film49uk 3 года назад +2

    Excellent clip and amazing how just a small connection can cause so much problems ......

  • @thegrowler-blackwoodngauge
    @thegrowler-blackwoodngauge 3 года назад +2

    Hi John - most informative video. Take the bogies off my Farish locos and remove the wheels quite regularly but it was good to learn how the power actually gets to the motor. Those two brass hangers feeding the motor - never realised what they actually did - so thanks for explaining all about the screws, contacts etc. Cheers Euan

  • @colinthomson7143
    @colinthomson7143 Год назад

    Hi John. Had exactly the same with a Farish Class 57. Lights on but no motor. Followed the same steps as your video. Hey Presto, the brass hangers were not touching the motor contacts. Now runs like a dream. Possibly a factory build quality issue?? But Thank you. 👍

  • @saltleywsc
    @saltleywsc 3 года назад +2

    Great Video thanks for sharing !

  • @Vonzack
    @Vonzack 3 года назад +2

    Hi John,
    Somebody must have been in that 37 before you, the feeds from the PCB should contact the outside of the motor tabs, never seen one put together like yours. Also re the bogies, Farish models are only designed to pickup from the outer wheelsets
    Great video, thanks for sharing

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      I put this question to Bachman a while a go, they told it makes no difference, so I don’t force the pins I leave them where they are using the natural spring. At the end of the day the loco WORKS and very well at that

  • @harperlarry49
    @harperlarry49 3 года назад +2

    Job well done. Nice work. Cheers - Larry.

  • @rogerclark5869
    @rogerclark5869 3 года назад +2

    Great video. Thanks for sharing info is the 47 the same please. Keep up with your excellent channel

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад +1

      Thank you Roger. Yes the 47 is SIMILAR, certainly for servicing, cleaning wheels etc. Just be careful of directional lighting boards as they can dislodge which could cause problems if its not repositioned.

    • @rogerclark5869
      @rogerclark5869 3 года назад +1

      @@piccadillymodelrailways thanks very much for the comment.

  • @ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932
    @ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 3 года назад +3

    What a coincidence John, I was doing exactly that yesterday, cheers.

  • @davidrauger
    @davidrauger 3 года назад +2

    Great video, very educational. Wasn't absolutely clear about putting wheels back in. Did you angle it so when one side was in you can push the contact in before pushing the wheel home.

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  3 года назад

      Hi Dave yes kind of at an angle, but it was making sure the pick up goes behind the wheel, then press down on the other pickup and pop the wheel back in. Otherwise it’s ohhh so easy to catch one pickup and bend one, breaking the pick up

  • @stewartsamson835
    @stewartsamson835 2 года назад +1

    Thank you for a very informative video. Can I ask a question as a real noob to anything technical? When you checked power with your GM Combi controller, if you had DCC loco would you use a DCC controller? Or do you need to use the DC controller as you showed? Sorry if that’s a really stupid question, thanks

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  2 года назад +1

      Hi Stuart, thank you, glad it was helpful to you. As long as the DCC decoder is reasonably new (year or two) it should run on DC. Some older decoders are not set to run on a DC controller. I would test though with the blanking plate in instead of the decoder, that way you know the loco works well. Then if a problem develops on DCC with the decoder, you know its the decoder.
      I MUST SAY though, dont not use a DC loco without a decoder on a DCC controller despite some saying you can. It can destroy your loco’s motor, believe me Ive done it.. You get that horrible feeling when you smell the burning smell and the loco refuses to move or respond in any way. On DCC the loco MUST have a decoder in before you put it on live track.
      Hope that helps, but please say if you need anything further.

    • @stewartsamson835
      @stewartsamson835 2 года назад +1

      @@piccadillymodelrailways thank you so much for taking the trouble to reply, much appreciated 👍 and I shall take note

    • @piccadillymodelrailways
      @piccadillymodelrailways  2 года назад

      YW