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The possibilities are endless! You've got me daydreaming. Westland Lysander, Hurricane, (Spitfired, obviously), Beaufighter....but we must consider popularity I suppose.
FYI: The "vents" look to be cowl flaps. they are allowed to open during takeoff and climb-out, as them being open allows air to move faster through the engine compartment when the engine is working hard at lower speeds. This is a radial engine, so cooling is only via air flow. Cowl flaps will be kept closed during normal operation and especially during low-power flight, such as during the approach to land. Great bit of detail allowing them to open instead of just being painted or or as decals.
I did one of these motors and was not happy with the way it looked, not good. So I bought another pack one and two. I took your advice Wayne, and did not put the the last part on with the pipes glued on the pins with a very light glue. Put the part in with all the pipes attached. I went around and around getting pipe after pipe fitted. Still some resistance. I took all most of the pipes that were single while it was still together. Slowly I pushed down and got all the pins in the correct holes. I did need to clip off three or four pins on the bottom where they just would not fit. I then screwed the two last screws in and put the all pipes I took out back in and it works and looks fine. You were bragging again when you said it took two hours. It took me two days fiddling with this of about 4-5 hours each day. I am retired, old and have nothing better to do.
So silly me, I went ahead with Pack #2 before watching your video, Wayne! The Stage 11, Step 2! Oh, my. Yes, some of the build was fiddly (test fit ALL of the cylinder halves dry first, some of the castings don't mate properly without some work). But that monster "jellyfish" part 004-07 is now sitting there staring at me!! I have a day-lit workspace, which I will need. I have your visor (from your online shop, or 'shoppe') and the LEDs are certainly bright...but these eyes of mine still benefit from a sunny day.
I’m actually received my Pack 2 in the US the same day you posted this video. I am shocked, the US is usually like a couple months behind the UK. This pack was a bear! I broke one of the mount pins for the “A” exhaust and the two stationary flaps in the process getting everything in place, but that’s what superglue is for!
The engine, as a whole, is called a radial engine. The black parts are the engine cylinders. The part you called a spiders web, are the HT leads and spark pugs. The part you attached this to are the push rods for the cylinder head valves. The gray dome, you put the electric motor in, is the gear reduction housing. It would be best to take the prop off, and put it back on at the end of the whole build.
@@longtimelurker3591 Not really. Simply, they are "cowl flaps". Their purpose is to allow extra cooling airflow when on the ground, & in slow flight during hot OAT conditions ('OAT' = Outside Air Temperature). Air-cooled piston engines (whether radial or horizontally opposed) will suffer damage from Cylinder Head Temps that are too high...additionally, subject them to thermal shock is also detrimental.
Looks amazing. Great amount of detail that hopefully isn't completely obscured by front housing of plane. Noticed at 23:25ish, looks like one of wires had sprung loose again.
Wow that tuck ten hours to film and you say post production was involved wow again. Bet to have two days clear to do this if it your first high detailed model. Just a suggestion. Loving the build as all ways. Stay safe all.
Iys not my first but this was really hard. I don't want peeps doing it to under estimate it like I did. I'm still not happy with my finished look but it is what it is now
@@WorldofWayneUK I ment its best for other people to give this pack two days to build. If they have not done builds with this much detail sorry for the confusion i may have given you.
Hi, I commented on your Twitter post with the warning about stage 10-11, what I had issues with was the second screw closest to the jack, it wasn’t properly drilled out so mine only has 1 screw holding it in place, but I was eventually able to assemble my engine with no other complications other than when I was assembling the pipes, some of my black parts that I glued on the bottom of the engine were either knocked loose or off but was able to glue them back on
@@WorldofWayneUK also I feel like your exhaust pipes may be upside down, I am seeing in the instructions and on mine that the double piped are on the bottom of the engine not the top, and some of your pipes didn’t line up with the openings in the moving black covers
@@WorldofWayneUK I see, I’m waiting on my new stage 1 so I haven’t seen how mine looks with the prop but I can feel and hear mine working when I tested the electronics, I’m looking forward to stage 3 to see what we’ll be working on next, though agora did tease us a little by revealing stage 16 containing the lights for the guns. Are you planning on doing the same thing you did with the spitfire’s guns to these guns or leave them stock?
@@gamingwithjacobi8757 probably stock at the moment but I will look at it when it arrives. Something else you may have noticed that in the thumbnail the engine cowling is on upside down lol
A pair of Bristol Engines on a Blenheim or Beaufighter would be amazing ... or a pair of Merlins on a DH98 Mosquito would look even better in this scale Wayne!
That was impressive engine work buddy, I think it would have been easier doing a refit on an actual full size engine buddy but as usual thank you so much for all your hard work,, well done pal 👏👏👏
I just noticed this. Not sure if its just me or not; According to the instructions for Step 3, Pack 2 - it says that the steps on how to insert the Pipes are "demonstrated on our video." The video is yours! lol
Also, am I the only one that wonders why I enjoy building these things so much when there is so much frustration involved? Think of the Delorean, the Jaguar, R2D2, and now this one. I had a huge Lego collection (8200 boxed sets and an extra 820K extra parts) and rarely did things not work as in the instructions. I think there should be a special place in hell for the designers of this engine and the Jaguar wire wheels. They were probably having a great time laughing and saying "let's see if the ever get these built. We got them a good this time."
Hi wayne i'm building this aircraft on my chanel too i'm at stage 12 so i watch after my stage 11 and you made à mistake on stage 11 2-2 you don't put the little nipple from the nose into the gap between the wire (or tubes)on the front. I hope you understand me What i'm trying to explain you .i follow you from à long neary 1 years you do a real great job
You've made a mistake!! the gray piece that covers the electric motor is mounted turned 180 ° with respect to its real position, at minute 17:59. The three fixing points of the spider web 004-07 do not enter the corresponding passages of the gray hub. Look at the left drawing of the minute 17:49 the part that protrudes laterally from the hub, slips exactly where the circle from which the flexible wires of the part 004-07 start. The engine is very detailed but the presence of the external screws on the rear piece and the large size of the wire passage take away a lot of exceptionality from the product. At that price it's not for me, "pure" model maker
After all that you hide all that detail with the engine cowling, I hope that was just clipped on so you can keep one half and show off all the hard work
@@WorldofWayneUK It was the same one "Candy Man" every 3-4 minutes, plus every chapter marker on your video. I understand the monetization aspect of the platform, but it is getting ridiculous, even with ad blocker.
If you enjoyed this video or some of my other content please consider pressing the SUBSCRIBE button and hitting the BELL next to it so you get notified when I release a new video. You will find all the links and information you want in the expanded video description. If you have any questions or comments please leave them below and you can always come find me on social media via the links in the description. You can also see my behind the scenes video logs on my Patreon at www.patreon.com/worldofwayne
Parts you refer to as vents are cooling Gills.
Would love to see them do an F4U Corsair with this much detail
I can think of a few other planes
They are a lot of plane to build in this scale
The possibilities are endless! You've got me daydreaming. Westland Lysander, Hurricane, (Spitfired, obviously), Beaufighter....but we must consider popularity I suppose.
Wow. Well done Wayne. That engine looks mighty impressive. This has to be the most detailed & fiddly engine I have ever seen.
FYI: The "vents" look to be cowl flaps. they are allowed to open during takeoff and climb-out, as them being open allows air to move faster through the engine compartment when the engine is working hard at lower speeds. This is a radial engine, so cooling is only via air flow. Cowl flaps will be kept closed during normal operation and especially during low-power flight, such as during the approach to land. Great bit of detail allowing them to open instead of just being painted or or as decals.
That engine detail looks incredible! I could only image the amount of concentration that took! WOW!!! Many props to you, Sir!
Hello Wayne, greetings from across the Pond. I just started Pack #1 a few days ago...
That looked really hard to do that engine but well worth it very detailed well done Wayne 👍
what a great bit of work, well done Wayne
Nice model fighter plane A6M Zero fighter. Like this plane. That's so cool 🤗👍amazing aircraft.
I did one of these motors and was not happy with the way it looked, not good. So I bought another pack one and two. I took your advice Wayne, and did not put the the last part on with the pipes glued on the pins with a very light glue. Put the part in with all the pipes attached. I went around and around getting pipe after pipe fitted. Still some resistance. I took all most of the pipes that were single while it was still together. Slowly I pushed down and got all the pins in the correct holes. I did need to clip off three or four pins on the bottom where they just would not fit. I then screwed the two last screws in and put the all pipes I took out back in and it works and looks fine.
You were bragging again when you said it took two hours. It took me two days fiddling with this of about 4-5 hours each day. I am retired, old and have nothing better to do.
So silly me, I went ahead with Pack #2 before watching your video, Wayne! The Stage 11, Step 2! Oh, my. Yes, some of the build was fiddly (test fit ALL of the cylinder halves dry first, some of the castings don't mate properly without some work). But that monster "jellyfish" part 004-07 is now sitting there staring at me!! I have a day-lit workspace, which I will need. I have your visor (from your online shop, or 'shoppe') and the LEDs are certainly bright...but these eyes of mine still benefit from a sunny day.
It's really hard but the end result......wow
I’m actually received my Pack 2 in the US the same day you posted this video. I am shocked, the US is usually like a couple months behind the UK. This pack was a bear! I broke one of the mount pins for the “A” exhaust and the two stationary flaps in the process getting everything in place, but that’s what superglue is for!
How did you get the exhaust pipes in?
@@cs7511 Persistance!
The engine, as a whole, is called a radial engine. The black parts are the engine cylinders. The part you called a spiders web, are the HT leads and spark pugs. The part you attached this to are the push rods for the cylinder head valves. The gray dome, you put the electric motor in, is the gear reduction housing. It would be best to take the prop off, and put it back on at the end of the whole build.
Excellent. Thanks for this
Also The engine flaps are usually refred to as Coolin gills.
@@longtimelurker3591 Not really. Simply, they are "cowl flaps". Their purpose is to allow extra cooling airflow when on the ground, & in slow flight during hot OAT conditions ('OAT' = Outside Air Temperature). Air-cooled piston engines (whether radial or horizontally opposed) will suffer damage from Cylinder Head Temps that are too high...additionally, subject them to thermal shock is also detrimental.
the paint on everything is so good i cant tell what is and isnt plastic or metal
Mostly metal
Looks amazing. Great amount of detail that hopefully isn't completely obscured by front housing of plane.
Noticed at 23:25ish, looks like one of wires had sprung loose again.
Looking forward to pack 4 or 5.
Wow that tuck ten hours to film and you say post production was involved wow again.
Bet to have two days clear to do this if it your first high detailed model.
Just a suggestion.
Loving the build as all ways.
Stay safe all.
Iys not my first but this was really hard. I don't want peeps doing it to under estimate it like I did. I'm still not happy with my finished look but it is what it is now
@@WorldofWayneUK I ment its best for other people to give this pack two days to build.
If they have not done builds with this much detail sorry for the confusion i may have given you.
Amazing detail! This will be a stunning mod when finished!
Hi, I commented on your Twitter post with the warning about stage 10-11, what I had issues with was the second screw closest to the jack, it wasn’t properly drilled out so mine only has 1 screw holding it in place, but I was eventually able to assemble my engine with no other complications other than when I was assembling the pipes, some of my black parts that I glued on the bottom of the engine were either knocked loose or off but was able to glue them back on
The exhausts were the biggest challenge for me
@@WorldofWayneUK also I feel like your exhaust pipes may be upside down, I am seeing in the instructions and on mine that the double piped are on the bottom of the engine not the top, and some of your pipes didn’t line up with the openings in the moving black covers
@@gamingwithjacobi8757 yep. Hence why I had to cut away and redo them lol
@@WorldofWayneUK I see, I’m waiting on my new stage 1 so I haven’t seen how mine looks with the prop but I can feel and hear mine working when I tested the electronics, I’m looking forward to stage 3 to see what we’ll be working on next, though agora did tease us a little by revealing stage 16 containing the lights for the guns. Are you planning on doing the same thing you did with the spitfire’s guns to these guns or leave them stock?
@@gamingwithjacobi8757 probably stock at the moment but I will look at it when it arrives. Something else you may have noticed that in the thumbnail the engine cowling is on upside down lol
I want a JU-88 or a ME-262, or possibly a Mosquito... Still contemplating getting this one, though.
Focker Wulf 190 for me please
@@andrewjackson3686 I could go for that or a BF109.
@@docdeth904 totally agree with Mosquito that would be impressive in large scale
@@andrewjackson3686 Imagine building those twin Merlins... WOW. I think this would be awesome though!
Thanks for your dedication and hard work
A pair of Bristol Engines on a Blenheim or Beaufighter would be amazing ... or a pair of Merlins on a DH98 Mosquito would look even better in this scale Wayne!
Yay new plane vid
Wayne, use the same technique for the port holes on the exhaust tip and they will really pop!
Very impressed - and now it's covered!!! - joking aside, tempted to purchase after that as i like the detail
That was impressive engine work buddy, I think it would have been easier doing a refit on an actual full size engine buddy but as usual thank you so much for all your hard work,, well done pal 👏👏👏
Awesome.
That was a marathon. You can now use that propeller as a fan to cool down now
Lol. That took 10 hours of filming
@@WorldofWayneUK I was wondering why the delay in posting...
This looks pretty good
I just noticed this. Not sure if its just me or not; According to the instructions for Step 3, Pack 2 - it says that the steps on how to insert the Pipes are "demonstrated on our video." The video is yours! lol
Yep.
I'd display it without the engine cover. Why have all that lovely detail if it can't be seen?
I wayne good build they look like cooling canes for the engine
Dang, Wayne, you Brits get all the cool toys! Lol.
すばらしい!
Yeah I wish I could get SBD Dauntless like that
Like it looks so good
mega filmy
Wayne the rear frame with the vents is on wrong too, the flatter edges front and rear should match
Yep. A Lot of work was done in post. This took 10 hours to film lol.
@@WorldofWayneUK tell me about it sir I got mine wrong on Sunday going to ask Agora to rebuy all engine parts
@@andrewjackson3686 I think a lot of folks are going to find this stage hard
The instructions aren't very good I think I use my phone to view them, would much prefer quality printed ones like the Enterprise D ones.
Also, am I the only one that wonders why I enjoy building these things so much when there is so much frustration involved? Think of the Delorean, the Jaguar, R2D2, and now this one. I had a huge Lego collection (8200 boxed sets and an extra 820K extra parts) and rarely did things not work as in the instructions.
I think there should be a special place in hell for the designers of this engine and the Jaguar wire wheels. They were probably having a great time laughing and saying "let's see if the ever get these built. We got them a good this time."
You should do the hacheet artworks mallard
Wayne you put the spark plug leads in wrong way the gap should be at the square block section on the prop shaft
I don't think its gonna matter. Everything looks.lkay
Hi wayne i'm building this aircraft on my chanel too i'm at stage 12 so i watch after my stage 11 and you made à mistake on stage 11 2-2 you don't put the little nipple from the nose into the gap between the wire (or tubes)on the front. I hope you understand me What i'm trying to explain you .i follow you from à long neary 1 years you do a real great job
Yep. I redid this I post production
@@WorldofWayneUK ho Nice i don't your next
What Glue do you use ??? and what plastic are the models made of ????
Mostly an abs composite so I use a CA glue
Thank you so much !!!
Love your Vids keep up the great work
Is it a trick of the camera or does the propeller has a tiny bit of wobble in it?
Not that I noticed. When I did the test it wasn't pushed all the way in so there may have been a bit of shimmy
Real Zeros also had a little spinner wobble
You've made a mistake!! the gray piece that covers the electric motor is mounted turned 180 ° with respect to its real position, at minute 17:59.
The three fixing points of the spider web 004-07 do not enter the corresponding passages of the gray hub.
Look at the left drawing of the minute 17:49 the part that protrudes laterally from the hub, slips exactly where the circle from which the flexible wires of the part 004-07 start.
The engine is very detailed but the presence of the external screws on the rear piece and the large size of the wire passage take away a lot of exceptionality from the product.
At that price it's not for me, "pure" model maker
Yer. I had to fix A LOT after this filming
Like
Bismarck has finally arrived
Stages 13 and 14 appear to be the cowl flaps that control the cooling for the engine
how did you get all the parts for bismarck
I'm doing it with Hachette too and they started almost 2 years earlier.
@@WorldofWayneUK ok Thank you
After all that you hide all that detail with the engine cowling, I hope that was just clipped on so you can keep one half and show off all the hard work
It's got a magent seal so you can take it off whenever you wany
@@WorldofWayneUK thank god
Great vid 💞💞👍👍🙏🙏🐕🐕🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
I think the name on these is getting mixed up. I am John Patterson but not 6660. (Special place in hell and then the 6660 shows up?????)
+
the iPhone commercials are really getting annoying!
The commercials are annoying
@@WorldofWayneUK It was the same one "Candy Man" every 3-4 minutes, plus every chapter marker on your video.
I understand the monetization aspect of the platform, but it is getting ridiculous, even with ad blocker.
@@BobBuesking my chrome ad block.extension blocks them all.