Are Outdoor Finishes Useless? Refinishing My Patio Table.
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
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Two years ago I made a redwood patio table. It's a great table with a sturdy design. However, the Spar Urethane finish on it turned out to be horrible. In fact, a planter box I made four years ago with NO finish looks tons better. This week I refinished the whole table with deck stain. But is outdoor finish really necessary?
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Hi Steve, since we're in lockdown, could you do a follow up on how durable that finish was (the 2nd time)
I'd be interested in this too. I'm going to use Steve's plans and make the same table. I think I might use teak to be safe. But that's going to be pricey.
+1
I made my garden table 20 years ago from Douglas fir, the only finish I've ever used is Linseed oil, it gets re-oiled every 2 years, never had any problems with it. The table stands straight on grass. I live up a mountain in France, we get 110 degrees in summer and 6 feet of snow, plus -10 in winter, the table takes it all.
god damn!
Just hand this exact problem. Have washed and sanded the table, and was thinking about using linseed oil. After reading this comment I think I’ll go ahead and do it :) Thanks arfamortis1! :)
thank you 👍👍 bonnie Scotland weather 🙈🙈
@@minirampbonden7927 nom de dieu!
I love that you went back and made a video to fix your "mistakes"! I just watched your video on how to make the table and now I won't have to deal with the problems you came across 2 years later! if you have any other tips on other projects that didn't turn out how you wanted I would love to see "fix it" videos! its a great way for new wood workers like myself to learn!
All the trouble you had with the table can be used as a kind of teaching material. The sort of wood, the glue, first coat you gave it after making it.... and so on. It's great material. You are not afraid to admit to an error so we can learn from it. I think that is cool!
Thank you for this video. I am so happy to listen you to say the truth about the brutal effect of the weather in the wood aplicated in exteriors. Thank you a lot Steve. Your channel is amazing. Excusa my bad english. Congratulations from Venezuela.
great way to revisit an old project
That table was one of my favorite projects you made, I'm glad to see it re-finished and given a second life. Thanks Steve!!
The time lapse drying shot was a great idea!
I made this patio table just two years ago and the outdoor finish I applied failed. If you want lasting UV and water protection for outdoor furniture, your best bet is paint, but painted furniture isn't visually appealing to some people. An alternative is a coat of oil based deck stain. It's easy to apply to bare wood, but if you already have a different finish applied, you are in for a lot of work! I spent more than three hours sanding this table.
Great video once again. Really helpful including your sanding time in the description. I always thought it will be really helpful if you included info like time and money spend or even smaller details like screw sizes sheets of sandpaper and amount of paint especially in big projects . Thanks for the inspiration
According to the manufacturer: "Three oil formula contains deep penetrating tung oil for long lasting protection"
Way better than any latex based clear finish as you found. Personally, unless it's paint, I hear "water based" or "water clean up" and I give that product a pass. My favorite finish is linseed oil and turpentine: looks great, smells great, and feels great (arthritic hands).
Well, you _had to_ sand that table a lot in order to get rid of the mould.
Your experience is just like mine; varathane or helmsman spar urethane is junk.. The water-based is horrible, and oil-based also fails miserably after 2-3 years. The penetrating deck stain is a much better option, and I've also found Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey works better than most oil-based products, with the benefit of smelling nice, being eco-friendly and super easy to apply (unaffiliated).
I'd always recommend a deck or outdoor furniture stain pigmented with transparent oxide such as this. Stains like this fail by chalking away, so a thorough clean is all that's required. Coatings, water based or oil based, will fail by cracking and peeling, so sanding will be required if you let them get too old (and we all do).
Hi Steve, happy fathers day,
You should try to use car oil, yes it migth sound carzy but it works very find. Just aply old motor oil to the wood, let it dry and then clean with a wipe, it lasts for a long time and it is very easy to give mantinegsment just by apling another coat when it is damaged.
thankfully I saw this before refinishing our patio table. Was thinking poly but will stick with deck stain to match our built in furniture. I touch that up annually, so I think this will look great.
I'm very curious how is the Table looking today!? Its been a few years. Can you share your thoughts on how the Oil Based deck stain did? Thank you again I really enjoy your channel.
The table is very beautiful again with this new finishing. Thank you for sharing. Thanks to MicroJig and Casper for sponsoring the show.
GREAT re-do Steve. I have used SuperDeck on several occasions and have not been disappointed.
Once we get through this "cool down" it's going to be HOT next week so you can enjoy your table.
Go Warriors!!
I saw your table build project for the first time a few days ago. I enjoyed the project very much. When I saw that you were using a urethane finish I knew there were going to problems. I had the bad learning experience or doing the same thing with a pressure treated lumber fence many years before. Oh boy. What I learned was that the finish can't breathe and move with the wood. So when I saw this video today, I was not surprised with your unhappy experience. I only use oil products for outside projects. Thanks Steve, great vid.
Man, you seriously have the most happy and colorful patio I have ever seen. I want it.
Also, I just noticed that the microjig ad shows a sawstop tablesaw. I guess you can't be too safe!
I have a theory that some umbrella have fabric treatments that attack wood finishes. Also, many big box stores are selling lumber laden with mold spores. I had to reject two delivered loads from a yard, finally switching yards to get lumber free of mold spores. I expect my lumber to be free of rot, disease, and excess moisture.
We've had a Casper mattress for a couple years, and the only good thing I can say about it is that the company sponsor some RUclips channels and podcasts I enjoy.
This has been the most useful channel for getting me started. Well done.
I think part of the problem might be that it was a water based product. I've had nothing but poor results with the majority of the water based products that I've used. I tend to avoid them, but oil based varnishes and paints are already starting to disappear. My father varnished a set of garage doors with OIL based spar varnish, and 20 years later, they still look amazing. Oil based really makes a big difference.
It is a shame you had so much trouble with the finish but that red wood stain looks great. I think it looks better then the spar varnish finish. Thanks for the information. It is really helpful.
Thank you! I also used that spar urethane. It flaked, peeled, and permitted mold, too.
I built some cedar window flower boxes. I coated them with three coats of boiled linseed oil. They held up nicely this year. Just gonna apply BLO every spring.
Really enjoyed this one, thanks!! You should do more like this where you talk about your experiences.
I built the same table and used the same finish. I thought it looked so good that I used it on a child's picnic table. And now too after one year the finish looks awful. I have just taken both my table's back in to strip them down. I think I will also use some type of deck stain to refinish mine. Thanks for the video.
I had the same thing happen with a bench I made and finished with spar urethane. Makes you wonder why it's even considered "outdoor" finish.
Thanks for the video!
Steve, you rock. Thanks for helping educate me and those of us who don't have your experience. Sometimes I wonder if you know I (and others) watch your September 2016 video (yikes!) and still learn something from this.
I see the previous commenter, Simon, is/was in lockdown a month ago and he's curious. I'm going on the beginning of month 4... so I totally echo that.
THANK YOU AGAIN for all you do. You're on my patreon channel. One day when I hit the jackpot, so will you. best regards from Tucson AZ. -Ehud
I method I learned from my uncle who learned it from a bunch of sailors is to soak the wood in a copper sulphate solution before applying any wood finish, this kills any mold spores and bacteria that can lead to the wood rotting sooner. They also used a solution of diesel, old engine oil and the red paint used on metal work to prevent rusting to paint the wood.
A couple of additional useful points on transparent deck stains. You're right they're a much easier product to reapply over the years than any film finish. (No peeling) One correction though, you should "not" put a 2nd coat on after it dries, or too soon over the years. The way they work is to soak in and "seal" the wood. If your wood is very thirsty and soaks up the first coat "very" quickly apply another lighter coat while still wet. If you let it dry and do a second coat it will sit on the surface and flake off because even if your wood may have soaked up a bit more while wet it won't after the first coat dries. On the same point, brush out any areas where it pools to avoid flaking also. Another bit of advice we give our customers is that if you spray or roll that's fine, but you really should back brush to work it into the wood better. It will last longer, this is true of solid color stains as well.
How are you supposed to lightly sand between coats if you're supposed to re-coat just before the last coat dries? That seems like advice that goes against the basic rules of staining/sealing.
I think that's a better way to go as well. I also like to use either BLO or Tung Oil mixed with a little thinner. Film finishes like poly or paint don't feel good on the skin when they get a bit warm. I think they have a tacky or sticky feel. And when the film starts to peel (and it will) the whole thing needs to be stripped or sanded away. Oil or stain just needs to be washed, dried & re applied.
That was a lot of sanding! It came out great in the end!
I have to refinish a couple outdoor projects this year. Canadian winters are harsh to outdoor furniture. Cool video Steve . Keep up the good work.
Hey Steve, I really enjoy your videos. While procceding with my medival reenacment i slowly quite with the most modern coatings as they always seal everything but not perfectly, so mold and rotted wood is the result. All my old replicated furniture are only coated with linseed oil and it works perfect. I just mix it with a bit solvent to get the oil deep in the wood. After some years its easy to add some oil as the pores are not completly closed, a bit fine sanding and a new coat, also smells some better.
I bought an outdoor IKEA patio table and chair set that was finished. Got mold in about a year exactly like your table. Seattle so lots of rain and cloudiness.
You should try sherwin Williams deck revive on the planter and see how well it brings the color back to the lumber.
I used MinWax Helmsman Spar Varnish on a 3/4" plywood deck for my small utility trailer and the same exact thing happened. The mold looked the same and of course the plywood started coming apart. I'm now redoing it by layering on canvas drop cloth saturated with latex house paint. Hopefully it will be more durable.
I used the same redwood deck finish on my first outdoor project which was a bench. I purchased it from Osh. It's held up ever since :)
I had that exact same spar urethane failure, same brand, using their oil-based product. I'm now trying Thompson's Water Seal, so far so good.
Honestly Steve I think it looks better than the day you finished it the first time.
The table stayed wet because it was under the umbrella. That's why you got the mold on it. Thanks for the video
Australian timber oil is so easy to use. Clean the furniture, and than wipe a new coat on after its dry. I used this product for a picnic table and some wine barrel chairs and it worked great!
I bought a spray can of this same spar urethane a few days ago to use on an outdoor project. Now having second thoughts.
I see we have the same taste in pressure washers. It's been a good machine for me for 3 years or so now, no problems. Hope you have the same experience with it, it sure is handy!
I attended a lecture with a phd in finishing who currently works as a consultant for chemichal industries. According to him, the best finishing for outdoor projects is.....Microjig!....
I just watched the build for this one. Beautiful table
Nice refinish job. I'll be giving deck stain a try on my next outdoor project.
I used same finish on work table outside. black mold and peeling finish this year.table is exterior marine ply so I know will not rot out . I want a finish that will not allow wood to splinter. trying teak oil/ oil base spar varnish mixture. maybe some mineral oil added so deep penetration. if finish is crap next year I am using your solution.
Hello, Steve. And what about Yachtlack? In Russia we have very extreme outdoor conditions. Sun, Rain, !!!Snow!!! I've made some outdoor projects and coated it with Yachtlack. After three years it's perfect! It's spent about all day for several layers of lacking, but it's totally worth it!
i've used the same type of finish(helmsman's spar urethane) and it has lasted great. i don't think you had enough coasts. they recommend 3 to 4, i think you only had one.
no he said in another video that it was helsman's.
This is interesting as I used WaterLox's Marine finish on one of my planters and in under a month, it started getting the mold/mildew issues, where as the one I made before it, without any finish, like yours, shows no signs of that. Houston, TX has been very wet this year, so it's interesting that the finished one gets the mold and mildew whilst unfinished doesn't. Great videos! Cheers!
I worked for Lowes and Sherwin Williams. outside topcoats rarely past more than a few seasons if they aren't treated like indoor furniture (which defeats the point, I know). no topcoat will last forever and most last for less time than we would like or intuitively think (exterior house paint, for example). road marking paint fades due to weather and we used to have specialty products used to paint aircraft carriers even those would fail due to weather.
it's worth it, in my opinion, if you want your furniture or deck or whatever to look good and you want the wood to last....but dont expect the finish to last more than a season or two if its truly outdoor furniture.
just my opinion. take as you will.
also, just a tip: dont EVER buy deck or fence cleaner. most places, like lowes, would ask that we try to sell 'deck wash' to customers because a surface must be clean, dry and dull for the topcoat to work as intended (in general, I mean). we would sell deck wash so people could clean the mold off of their decks. when I read the label, its bleach water. a mild diy bleach water wash will cost you far less than deck wash. 👍
I really like this table design. Maybe one day when I have time (hah, I have young kids, so maybe in 30 years) I'll figure out how to downsize it to be like one of those standing bar tables (essentially a smaller top maybe 3' across, 4'-4.5' tall, and without the umbrella hole) for use as a table for my beer while I'm working the grill in the backyard.
I feel like most people that hate on spar don't know how to use it, often they're lazy about it. Stuffs been around for a long time. It's one of the more time consuming finishes. That's what ya get if you want something to last outdoors. Minimum 3-5 coats with sanding... Pros tip: cut down the first couple coats with 10% mineral spirits. It'll soak deeper into the wood. And don't forget some kind of stain before, to help with the u.v. rays. Lastly, I recommend oil over water based always...
Iron sulfate on outdoor wood is great. It gives it the silvery greyish look like your flower box and it lasts forever.
Thanks for the update on this project and the new recommendations.
Hey Steve, It was awesome meeting you at VidCon. Thanks for the time.
Spar (yacht varnish UK) attracts dark mould & looks ugly after a year on outdoor projects. I have been trying raw linseed oil, (not the boiled) this is currently lasting longer & it is easy to re-coat & is relatively inexpensive. Only concern is that it dries by exothermic oxidation that can cause the rags to ignite
For anyone interested, this finish didn't hold up well either based on an update he posted a year later. It looked kinda rough and had some kind of residue that rubbed off when he touched it. Deck finish may be okay for decks, but doesn't seem like it's a good idea for a tabletop, or any furniture. I've been trying to figure out a good way to finish some outdoor cedar projects and now I'm totally stumped!
you should keep a record on the bottom of your patio table. write the type of finish, date and coats on the underside. that way you can keep track of the lousy finishes. I recommend that you drop the lousy brand immediately, but that's my opinion. I look forward to seeing your patio table in another year! ;)
I used oil based paint on a lot of projects, Latex doesn't seem to last long from some observations I have seen over the years, i'm no painter by any means, but it will be interesting to see how it holds up over a few years. I have no experience with deck stains.
Interesting. I literally just stained a bench I made with deck stain... and followed it up with Minwax SPAR Urethane... which is an oil based product. We'll see how it holds up. Looks beautiful, I'll give it that!
Back in the 90's cedar front doors and cedar garage doors became all the rage. Most were a mess after a few years, but others always looked brand new. After experiencing several failures of outdoor finishes on patio furniture of various species, I finally knocked and someone door and asked "What the hell did you finish your garage door with?"
The answer was SIKKENS. Sikkens outdoor finishes are a two part system. The first coat is a stain (various colours available) called "Cetol 1". The second coat is a clear UV protectant called "Cetol 23". You never have to re-apply the first coat. Every 3 to 5 years, you lightly sand the second coat only and re-apply the Cetol 23 only. Compared to other exterior finishes Sikkens products are quite expensive, but you need a quality product to get a quality finish which can look great for 15 to 20 years. Well worth the cost compared to re-staining every year or so. The products are still available in Canada and the U.S. on Amazon. You might have trouble finding their products elsewhere.
Before you leave the bathroom done forget to wipe your...MicroJig....
XD
I'm laughing my MIcroJig out. lol!
Hey I resemble that statement
Steve, I've watched your videos since the beginning. I really like your "woodworking for the rest of us" approach. It's been amazing to watch your journey from those early videos to the interesting and entertaining vids you are producing now. I used watch the New Yankee Workshop every chance I could and am a big fan of Norm. I think Norm would be impressed by what you have created. Congratulations!
PS It's also great to see how nice the weather is in Marin. we left Richmond CA for Toronto a few years back and seeing your vids reminds me of many enjoyable outings to Marin County.
You shouldn't be afraid to name names on products your not happy with. It's your opinion and you backed it up with details on your experience. That's why we watch these videos is to learn.
Here in Serbia (and the rest of Europe I guess, I don't travel much so it might be a a wild guess :D ) we have stain with wax in it, it is very good for outside projects since when dried a thin coat of wax remains on the surface, and it is a natural property of wax to be quite resilient to UV. Not to mention that wax seals the wood against moisture, and unlike lacquer, it expands and contracts with wood, so it doesn't brake when sunlight hits it.
Steve, for outdoor finishing the USFS has been doing tests for many years on outdoor finishes and has the last 65 years documented. You can learn a lot from their experience. But for brevity here is a pertinent part...
Coating bare wood with a paintable water-repellent preservative keeps finish on longer. Backed up by research at Purdue University and the U.S. government's Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, Wisconsin. It's important that a product's label make three claims: "water repellent," "preservative" and "paintable." The water repellent, often a wax, keeps the wood from shrinking or swelling as much when it rains, so the finish stretches less, stays intact and grips the wood longer. The preservative kills mildew, which could grow into the top layer and ruin its look, and fungi that cause wood to rot. There is a wide variation in formulas on the market, however. To find an effective preservative, follow the lead of the many window and door manufacturers who use products that contain 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, an iodine-based preservative often abbreviated IPBC.
I can tell you from experience you don't want to do more then one coat of the WRP or the wax build up will keep your finish from forming a good bond with the wood. Also let me pass on a couple of tips from Wood magazine that I have found helpful.
1. Ignore the directions. Thin your finish.
Oil-based varnish tops the durability charts in terms of water-resistance. The secret lies in its synthetic resins which have been bonded to drying oils and mixed with a thinner. (Faster to cure, varnishes that use urethane for their resin -- often labeled polyurethane -- dominate the modern market and are easier to find.) When the thinner flashes off and the varnish cures, its molecules form long, hard chains that armor-plate the surface of the wood against moisture.
But applying varnish is not easy. It drips. It bubbles. It broadcasts brush strokes. Aha! That's because you've been following the directions, specifically the directive in bold type on the can that says, "DO NOT THIN."
To meet government regulations for lowered volatile organic compound (VOC) emissions limits, manufacturers reduced the amount of thinners in their oil-based varnish. The tradeoff: those pesky drips, bubbles and brush strokes.
Break the rules. Stir a can of oil-based varnish. In a separate, sealable container combine one part varnish with one part mineral spirits and stir again. Voila! You've made a wiping varnish.
Thinned varnish spreads faster, so it settles flat and defect-free before it dries. It also retains varnish's water resistance, so use this finish on tabletops and kitchen and bathroom cabinets where moisture contact occurs.
2. Take a pass on the pigment
Ask your finish retailer for a low-maintenance, clear, water-resistant exterior wood finish. Then wait ten minutes for them to stop laughing. You might as well be asking for rainbow-colored unicorn milk. The reason? Exterior finishes take a beating from the one-two punch of ultraviolet (UV) light and exposure to the weather. UV breaks down the finish along with the wood beneath, while temperature and humidity changes swell and shrink the wood, shaking and flaking off the weakened finish. Unless you're paying top dollar for a specialty marine finish, you're left with the yearly task of sanding away the damaged, clear, film-forming finish and reapplying.
So what to do? Use exterior paint. But break the rules -- don't tint it.
Wait, isn't that just white paint? Not always.. Although all paint bases have varying amounts of pigments, providing much of its protection against damaging UV, the base reserved for the darkest colors (usually labeled "deep base" or designated base 4, 5, or E) has the least. A murky tan in the can, it dries virtually clear like a varnish.
But unlike many of the film-forming clear finishes marketed for outdoor use, most exterior paints also contain UV inhibitors to bolster their defense against the sun's damaging rays. Plus, they usually contain mildewcides and fungicides.
We used this little rule-bender on an exterior door and it needed only minor touch-ups after seven years of exposure.
Thanks! This video was very helpful. I'm going to be making some home made watercolor paper board/stretchers. They need to be water tight. Was planning on using a poly based product. Looks like deck stain is the what I need.
I always find mold on the north side of my house because it does not get direct sun exposure. Perhaps the shade from the umbrella is why mold flourished on your table
@2:00 you said latex paint is best for outside wood….another video you said lacquer paint was best for outdoor wood…so which is it??????
Lol I've never heard of lacquer paint
The table become beautiful. Wish you a nice and good weekend
Has it been that long since this table? This is great since I'm starting to try building outdoor stuff!
Steve- It looks like the initial finish didn't adhere. That would explain the mold too. Layers of wood, water, mold with a layer of finish on top holding the water in. I wonder if the red wood stain they applied wasn't oil based and that's the reason the spar urethane didn't adhere (oil and water don't mix without a coat of shellac in between).
I love the brand Sikkens and use Cetol 1 for the first coat and Cetol 23 for 2nd and 3rd coat .... Illegal in California
Purple bench made my morning.
I build a lot of out door structures and often i use timber oil or linseed oil... I find oil finishes a good solution as they let the wood breathe
standard house hold pressure washer with is good for lossening flaky finishes and soft wood. Towel dry the bulk and leave until next day. I find it takes less effort and shows you weaknesses in the wood.
I love your MicroJig and Casper commercials!
A table which occasionally has food spilled on it, or drinks, and also is shaded by an umbrella and gets less direct sunlight, will definitely grow mold faster/better than a very clean surface which is never blocked from the sun by said umbrella.
Man....this video was exactly what I looking for.... We have some kind of dwarf pine tree (I know nothing about trees) that was in a cute, cheep-o, wood barrel in the middle of our front yard - cute little tree, whatever the hell it is... Anyway, the barrel rotted and today I built a simple box, with untreated lumber as the frame and pressure treated one-by-fours around the outside. I told my wife, today, that I was going to stain the outside with redwood deck stain (coincidentally, given that's what you did in this video) and I told her that I thought maybe I should put polyurethane on the thing - I guess that would be a mistake. The pressure treated one-bys are nailed horiztonally around the box and nailed to OBS and studs - I slapped some junk paint on the inside frame and the OBS to see if it would seal it a bit.... I was wondering if I should put clear, acrylic caulk in the cracks between the pressure treated wood to keep water from seeping in and rotting the OBS and the frame....which will eventually rot, no what matter what the hell I do - I know. It's wood. Would caulking between the cracks, on the outside, be (1) smart, (2) stupid (3) make me taller and better looking, etc....??? Help - I don't know what I'm doing - skipped shop class in high school! Seems like keeping water away from OBS and the untreated frame would be a good idea. But I know almost zero. Thanks for any suggestions, and, thanks for the video.
How's the redwood finish holding up now after 15 months?
You should do a wwmm basics video on finishes [indoor and outdoor finishes] if you could that would b really good keep up the work
Hey now I dig spar urethane. Do mostly outdoorsy projects so I use it a lot. Now I prefer Minwax, steve was using Varathanes version. Now you have to do at least 3 coats of the stuff with sanding in between. Not sure if Steve went that far, I'm suspicious... I also always do some kind of minwax stain before, even if it's just the 'Natural' which adds very little color. That oil based stain underneath the 3-5 coat oil based spar will hold up that wood for years
I made this table 2 years ago from pressure treated pine finished with Cabot Gold deck stain with Spar urethane once the stain cured. The finished failed and not sure if I didn’t allow the wood to dry out but, the spar pealed and broke down. I’m not sure if I needed pressure-treated since the table sits on my deck and I see plenty of videos of patio furniture made of plain old construction lumber. Also, not sure if I used oil based or water based spar.
I think the problem with deck stain is eating off it. I have kids that I don't want to consume whatever is in deck stain. Thanks for the helpful videos!
2020 quarantine and I'm watching this. How about an update to the update?
I had the exact problem with that same spar finish on a pizza cutter handle. It's gross.
I haven't used it by that Superdeck seems the be very highly regarded among pro's. I've recently tried Australian Timber Oil as well which I've heard is good. We'll see though - that project has only been out in the elements a few months.
The umbrella actually probably contributed to the mold. Mold has more trouble growing when it's being bombarded by UV light.
Mold and weathering on outdoor furniture can be cleaned up nicely with some Tide powder detergent and a green scotchbrite pad
As someone who has stained around 30+ decks I would agree these deck stains last tho if its says 3-5 years it should last your looking at the low end more realistic 2 years. That mostly depends as I used mostly sherwin Williams products and after 3 years it still looks decent.
Nice job :) I always use for outdoor finishing all kind a wood oils and stains what soaks good in wood - everything hwat stays on top gonna come off...
Repeated use of pigmented deck stains can be a bad idea. The oils leave over time but the pigments tend to stay. So unless you take it back to bare wood it is best to refresh the finish with a clear version of the stain/finish originally used.
Your video intros are gold.
That casper bit got a little wild for a min there.XD
love the deck stain look. such a better finish.
Great video Steve, I've had a great deal of success with Organoil outdoor furniture oil which is an Australian product that you might not have access to over there. My door is a year old now and looks exactly the same as when new
I'm going to need to build a 15 foot long, 2 feet wide and 2.25 inch thick desk that has a super high gloss white glassy finish. It would be nice if you had anything like this on your channel? Also would be nice if it had many parts and such.
Can you do a Micro jig intro compilation?
that deck finish leaves a very nice colour on the table