This is not the only way to build a forge, but it is how I've been taught and this style works very well for me. After filming, the full performance of this particular forge continues to impress me with its lower fuel usage and smooth, even heating.
This was great. This was also the first forge of its type I've seen, but I've mostly watched homesteading and self-reliance types of videos - they all seem to use a common open coal table with air pushed up through the middle.
Chris, it was awesome to see you on F.I.F tonight. Sorry ya didn't win pal, I was pulling for ya. Hope to see you back again on there for another shot at the 10K. You LOOKED like 10grand in that snazzy vest!
Mr Price ...I'm really glad I watched this video as you talked about silica causing health problems.im just starting out in blacksmithing and I don't have a lot of money.on alot of RUclips videos there are people making homemade motar recipes and it's making liquid glass that can withstand high temperatures.its basically silica gel mixed with lye drain cleaner.do you think mixing this with mortar mix is dangerous or have you heard of anyone having problems doing this? Also did you say to set the ribbon burner at an angle to create the swirling flame effect ?
Is that the power hammer Sam built? Nice, low overhead design. I do like that ribbon burner design. I was turning those 316 stainless nozzles into bacon pretty frequently before casting the burner in place.
Brian Madigan Yes, that's the famous Salvati Tire Hammer. As for the burner, there is no "nozzle" involved, it's just the steel box manifold with the pipe coming out the back, and the casting on the face-side of it. I used Mizzou, but I think you could do everything with basic parts and furnace cement (the grey kind, not the black stuff) from the hardware store.
***** Excellent. Yeah the old way was to poke a flared nozzle through the kaowool and as it got exposed to the heat over time it would just disintegrate. Casting in the ribbon burner leaves no steel exposed to the atmosphere. Is good. Oh, another thing, if you want to get all the air bubbles out of the castable, use random oscillating sander with a rod screwed into it. Cheap vibratory bubble remover.
Perhaps I will try to place a flat piece of wood on the bottom after the "mizzou"(?) mixture. And then insert a section of large inner tube and blow it up with air in order to put even, constant pressure around the sides and top. Perhaps that would make a real nice arc for the inner venturi and pack the insulation until it cures. Then either simply pull the board up possibly having wrapped it in cling film or burn it off within the forge. Does that sound like too much to go through in your opinion? Just in case the insulation was mixed too thinly/watery? To keep it from dropping down our sagging like an inner city youth's pants! Thanks for this video it was very well explained. One more thing. The first thing that crossed my mind was instead of crayons, to use glue sticks used in hot glue guns. Would/could it be beneficial to actually carve them in to a slightly conical shape? For even more efficient use of pressure and gas? I am just lately getting the bug for the fire arts and although I'm handicapped I can see myself having a whole lot of therapeutic relief by getting my creative juices flowing again. After 20+ years of custom woodworking I've been crippled for the last 8 years with severe neuropathy. I cannot be defeated! But at times I would like to be "de-feeted" if you know what I mean 😃 this stuff hurts. Thanks again!
Everything you suggest would just complicate the build, I find. It's not too hard to adjust the consistency of the refractory cement, adding either a little water, or a little more mix, if you find yourself to one side or the other of ideal. Also, straight holes work just fine, tapering them would cause more turbulence and back pressure, when what you want is smooth flowing air/gas. Good luck.
Christopher Price thank you for the feedback. Knowing nothing, makes it hard for me to know anything 😃 Channels like yours make it possible to learn without making all of the same mistakes that you may have made.
If you weren't pressed for time could you have just left the refractory to cure for a couple days or would you still be baking steam out of it then? Also what are the reducers you use to go from 1 inch to the gas quick disconnect. Did you seal the connections with anything or are they just hand tight? Thanks
RocketCityGardener If only the Mizzou were wet, then yes you could just leave it to dry. I had an excess of water in the Kaowool, so I wanted to force it out before the inner shell fully cured. As for the fittings, I just used a 1" T-fitting, and found the step-downs to the quick-disconnect fitting. All threads from the gas line are doped and tested for leaks.
Wondering how your forge is working with the 1 inch black pipe,I'm in the middle of building a new ribbon burner forge ,everyone seems to be using 2 inch and it's a pain to get in Alaska without buying a 10 foot stick.
+worldtraveler No, just try to visualize the kind of airflow you want in your furnace, and how you'll handle the stability of the furnace with extra plumbing and weight up top. You might prototype it with bricks or plain inswool first, so if you don't like the heat distribution, you can alter your arrangement for your finished forge.
+Christopher Price Take a peak at this for me please... waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/uploads/Ribbon_Forge_Burner.pdf I'm building one of these now but is running on natural gas.
+worldtraveler Yes, I know Wayne, and have used his rig. That is one way to do it, but it seems like everyone's needs are a little different. Good luck.
Since I did this, I have welded many things, and much flux has landed in the floor of the forge. At welding heat, it gets a little sticky, but the mizzou has held up totally solid underneath it. Someday I'll have to chip it all out and re-line again, but that's something almost every forge has to endure periodically. No lining lasts forever under heavy use.
The kaowool refractory is flush against the steel body, and is between 1 and 2 inches thick at various points around the forge. More on the floor. The Mizzou castable refractory fills in any small gaps and seals the wool against particularization and abuse from flux and steel.
+Alex Rodriguez Yes, it's made by casting Mizzou castable refractory in a custom mold, using crayons to create the hollow space for air and fuel to flow through. You melt them out before installing.
@@cheapshotmike1091 We get around, Ric is a good friend and mentor. Before COVID there were plenty of times people travel and meet up. I'm in Virginia.
metalsculptingben My blower us up-cycled from a small moon-bounce toy, so it's overkill - but I reduce the hose from 4 inches to one inch pipe before adding fuel. It's what is commonly called a "squirrel cage" blower, good pressure, but backpressure won't burn out the motor because of the wide inlet... the blades will just spin in their own air with reduced output.
![VICTOR Denmark Open 2024 | An Se Young (KOR) [1] vs. Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] | SF](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Y3QEyCih85s/mqdefault.jpg)
This is not the only way to build a forge, but it is how I've been taught and this style works very well for me. After filming, the full performance of this particular forge continues to impress me with its lower fuel usage and smooth, even heating.
This was great. This was also the first forge of its type I've seen, but I've mostly watched homesteading and self-reliance types of videos - they all seem to use a common open coal table with air pushed up through the middle.
Chris, it was awesome to see you on F.I.F tonight. Sorry ya didn't win pal, I was pulling for ya. Hope to see you back again on there for another shot at the 10K. You LOOKED like 10grand in that snazzy vest!
Thank you!
Mr Price ...I'm really glad I watched this video as you talked about silica causing health problems.im just starting out in blacksmithing and I don't have a lot of money.on alot of RUclips videos there are people making homemade motar recipes and it's making liquid glass that can withstand high temperatures.its basically silica gel mixed with lye drain cleaner.do you think mixing this with mortar mix is dangerous or have you heard of anyone having problems doing this? Also did you say to set the ribbon burner at an angle to create the swirling flame effect ?
Is that the power hammer Sam built? Nice, low overhead design. I do like that ribbon burner design. I was turning those 316 stainless nozzles into bacon pretty frequently before casting the burner in place.
Brian Madigan Yes, that's the famous Salvati Tire Hammer. As for the burner, there is no "nozzle" involved, it's just the steel box manifold with the pipe coming out the back, and the casting on the face-side of it. I used Mizzou, but I think you could do everything with basic parts and furnace cement (the grey kind, not the black stuff) from the hardware store.
***** Excellent. Yeah the old way was to poke a flared nozzle through the kaowool and as it got exposed to the heat over time it would just disintegrate. Casting in the ribbon burner leaves no steel exposed to the atmosphere. Is good. Oh, another thing, if you want to get all the air bubbles out of the castable, use random oscillating sander with a rod screwed into it. Cheap vibratory bubble remover.
well done and very simple to follow :-)
great info! Thanks Chris!
Great video thanks for posting it.
hahahaha love the funny stuff.... tell's me your not new at this or nervous !!!
Love this video keep it up
As.I see if the added safety of a shut off selenoid justify adding one , Safety for $25.00 , Thanks for showing
I suggest using fire bricks for floor and there easy to switch out if they get flux on them
Perhaps I will try to place a flat piece of wood on the bottom after the "mizzou"(?) mixture. And then insert a section of large inner tube and blow it up with air in order to put even, constant pressure around the sides and top. Perhaps that would make a real nice arc for the inner venturi and pack the insulation until it cures. Then either simply pull the board up possibly having wrapped it in cling film or burn it off within the forge. Does that sound like too much to go through in your opinion? Just in case the insulation was mixed too thinly/watery? To keep it from dropping down our sagging like an inner city youth's pants!
Thanks for this video it was very well explained. One more thing. The first thing that crossed my mind was instead of crayons, to use glue sticks used in hot glue guns. Would/could it be beneficial to actually carve them in to a slightly conical shape? For even more efficient use of pressure and gas? I am just lately getting the bug for the fire arts and although I'm handicapped I can see myself having a whole lot of therapeutic relief by getting my creative juices flowing again. After 20+ years of custom woodworking I've been crippled for the last 8 years with severe neuropathy. I cannot be defeated! But at times I would like to be "de-feeted" if you know what I mean 😃 this stuff hurts. Thanks again!
Everything you suggest would just complicate the build, I find. It's not too hard to adjust the consistency of the refractory cement, adding either a little water, or a little more mix, if you find yourself to one side or the other of ideal. Also, straight holes work just fine, tapering them would cause more turbulence and back pressure, when what you want is smooth flowing air/gas.
Good luck.
Christopher Price thank you for the feedback. Knowing nothing, makes it hard for me to know anything 😃
Channels like yours make it possible to learn without making all of the same mistakes that you may have made.
If you weren't pressed for time could you have just left the refractory to cure for a couple days or would you still be baking steam out of it then?
Also what are the reducers you use to go from 1 inch to the gas quick disconnect. Did you seal the connections with anything or are they just hand tight?
Thanks
RocketCityGardener If only the Mizzou were wet, then yes you could just leave it to dry. I had an excess of water in the Kaowool, so I wanted to force it out before the inner shell fully cured. As for the fittings, I just used a 1" T-fitting, and found the step-downs to the quick-disconnect fitting. All threads from the gas line are doped and tested for leaks.
Wondering how your forge is working with the 1 inch black pipe,I'm in the middle of building a new ribbon burner forge ,everyone seems to be using 2 inch and it's a pain to get in Alaska without buying a 10 foot stick.
WildmanPB Works just fine with the blower.
I just got my forge together last night with 2". One major downside is just how heavy 6 foot of 2" pipe is!
Quick question, How long would a propane tank last while fueling a forge like this?
Hey Chris... Thanks for the video. Can you see any issues with mounting the ribbon burner on the top of the forge instead of the side?
+worldtraveler No, just try to visualize the kind of airflow you want in your furnace, and how you'll handle the stability of the furnace with extra plumbing and weight up top. You might prototype it with bricks or plain inswool first, so if you don't like the heat distribution, you can alter your arrangement for your finished forge.
+Christopher Price Take a peak at this for me please... waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/uploads/Ribbon_Forge_Burner.pdf
I'm building one of these now but is running on natural gas.
+worldtraveler Yes, I know Wayne, and have used his rig. That is one way to do it, but it seems like everyone's needs are a little different. Good luck.
+Christopher Price Thanks bud!
Mr. Price, how does the mizzou stand up to flux? Does it last a while or should I add hard brick to the bottom or would it even matter?
Since I did this, I have welded many things, and much flux has landed in the floor of the forge. At welding heat, it gets a little sticky, but the mizzou has held up totally solid underneath it. Someday I'll have to chip it all out and re-line again, but that's something almost every forge has to endure periodically. No lining lasts forever under heavy use.
Wondering how much space is between the refractory & the steel plate? Looks around 3/8” or 1/2”.
The kaowool refractory is flush against the steel body, and is between 1 and 2 inches thick at various points around the forge. More on the floor. The Mizzou castable refractory fills in any small gaps and seals the wool against particularization and abuse from flux and steel.
what did is the brick made out of? is it the concrete material you used on the kaowool
+Alex Rodriguez Yes, it's made by casting Mizzou castable refractory in a custom mold, using crayons to create the hollow space for air and fuel to flow through. You melt them out before installing.
so are you in Wisconsin?
Nope, not sure what gave you that notion...
@@tidewaterforge you mentioned that you got material from the guy in door county.
I looked into taking classes there, but they were booked.
@@cheapshotmike1091 We get around, Ric is a good friend and mentor. Before COVID there were plenty of times people travel and meet up. I'm in Virginia.
What type of fan do you use?
metalsculptingben My blower us up-cycled from a small moon-bounce toy, so it's overkill - but I reduce the hose from 4 inches to one inch pipe before adding fuel. It's what is commonly called a "squirrel cage" blower, good pressure, but backpressure won't burn out the motor because of the wide inlet... the blades will just spin in their own air with reduced output.
cant hear you why waste your time and mine.