Is this the same tiny hawk that comes in the total kit with goggles controller battery and case if so will that buzzer on it also what is the difference between all the tiny Hawks I see the difference on the freestyle model but confused on the others all I saw was color and the ability to change the camera angle I'm tryin to learn this but spend more time looking for the dang when I lose orientation and crash so a.louder buzzer rather than motors will help I live in the woods so open space is limited any help would great also looking to upgrade the radio the one that came with it is too small for my hands what radio will bind to the tiny hawk and is a good investment so I don't have 6 radios laying around thanks for your time hope all is well
Differences between them are significant, the first only being 1S compatible while the 2nd (Tinyhawk S) does 2S. The newest one has better adjustable cam with better VTx at the sacrifice of performance allegedly (I don't have that one). I will soon be doing a video on the Jumper T8SG Multi-protocol controller which is a great transmitter to control multiple copters👍🏽
Looks like the demand from those motors is just too much for a 1S either that or there is a crappy voltage regulator on the FC. Great try and doing this for the team! You're one of the best advocates for our hobby and I salute you!
EMAX just released a mod tobypass the voltage sag at 3.3v, you need to solder a capacitor 10uf on the 3.3v solder points on the board. check out the Facebook post.
Yes, beacon is setup already from factory but that only works as a lost model alarm. I like a buzzer for audio alert for LVC. Prefer audio over OSD as many times we forget to watch the OSD batt warning voltage..
Just got the tiny hawk kit with goggles and all love this little thing but will buzzer work like the one built into it it s not loud enough for me to hear spent four hours in the woods looking for could never hear it beeping too low if this is the fix where to order the beeper sir thanks for your time happy holidays
My Tinyhawk didn't have one built in. It used the motors as buzzer which wasn't very loud at all and could not buzz for low battery warning. Adding a buzzer makes it loud. If yours has a real buzzer already installed I wouldn't know how loud it is in comparison to mine because I never witnessed it. However, if yours only beeps when you hit the switch and not when the battery is low then, there is no buzzer.
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop no buzzer just what ever weak cry the motors due when you hit the switch if a buzzer is attached like you did will it beep when switch flipped to find
hey bro.just been donated a few parts for my progect so was wondering the best frame for orio32 4in1 2020 and omnibus f4 v6 nano and best motors kids want speed on this one.allso are the willys wild special juice motors good.
ggreetings about the problem is that when it reaches 3.1V the drone seems to accelerate and slow down on its own, that's what you mean and with the capacitor it solves my problem like that, and so you get more flight time, I hope your answer
I’ve only had mine a week, had a fairly heavy crash on concrete and now I’m getting a kind of vibrating sound, flies ok but what’s the sound. I’ve closely examined for damage, frame, props etc but there isn’t any. It’s just annoying, any ideas would be appreciated, I loved it when it was just smooth. Cheers.
Sounds like a motor bell might be ever so slightly bent. Next time you arm it don't give throttle, just pick up the drone and lean it to each corner for a few seconds causing the dipped motor to spin up faster than the others.. That way you can identify which motor is causing the sound👌
pretty sure there is a setting in betaflight you can turn on and use the escs as the buzzer. no soldering needed. also the brown outs you speak of happen around 3.4 volts? Look up other videos about low voltage on the tinyhawk. either solder on a small cap or get the newer batch.
Comes with ESCs already configured as buzzer but that feature is only good for lost model alarm and it's low. Real active buzzer works for LVC which is kinda important to set as reminder for catching it before it freaks out in LVC. Also, Emax just released this info on the lock up being caused by the MCU not having enough power at 3.4V. I added a cap in this video and it didn't work! But that's because Emax says the cap needs to be on the 5v out and - pad on the board. Check out the link in the comment before yours..
@@FlyerFrequency lvc is displayed in the osd. kinda seems redundant. the cap that you added was way to big and also from what ive watched the cap goes on the 3.3 positive to negative. needs a very small ceramic cap that about 10 micro ferrads I believe.
Haven't you ever flown FPV and over looked the voltage in OSD and noticed late that the battery is half murdered? Happens a lot and not just to me. I personally think an active buzzer is more useful than not. Will definitely take it over OSD voltage reading as I think audible warning is harder to overlook. As for the capacitor, just check the dates of all the videos you find adding the capacitors to the pads on the board and you will probably find that all of them come AFTER the post from Emax themselves explaining what the problem is and advising to use a capacitor on the pads to fix the problem. Aside from adding the buzzer, all the other things I tried in the video was suggested by viewers who commented on another of my videos with options to try to solve the problem.
Hey man, good stuff. I saw you had the dipole out of the casing. Noticeable difference in video? Sometimes I get some horizontal lines but they eventually go away. did you pull the receiver wire up too? was gonna do that if it's worth it. Thanks man!
Not really, fix the video by adding a cap to the 5v and ground on the board and solve the problem I was fooling around with in this video by adding another cap to the 3.3v and ground pads.
My Brother stuff that small try liquid solder on a toothpick. Also you my want to use some silicone to tack down the buzzer, plus it will provide a little cushion on impacts.
Ofcourse you can! Alot of work thoug! You would have to change the voltage regulators on the flight controller and alot of the onboard capacitors, it is dooable but you need the right knowledge and tools. Like a rework station, and basic knowledge of OHMs law, microcircuits and components, if you know all that you might aswell build your own FC from scratch.
I def like the buzzer mod. Will be doing that tomorrow. I have some micro buzzers that will work great. I noticed you used a gnb 600mah. I was wondering if they fit without any mod. Looks like it does. I already have (16) 450 mAh batts for mine but if the 600's fit, then I'll get some of those too.
I know how it's hard to work on tinies! Yesterday swapped out the faulty US65 board with a new one. But I used the mec-hand that has a magnifying glass on it. I have not been able to do it without. The trasplant has been a success, with some bugs, but not caused by my solldering/assembling work. Done a video and is my channel for who need it. If you want, ffrc can you give a lokk and maybe solve some 'bugs' remained. Ciao ffrc. Maybe I will put a buzzer on my QX90X. I have 5 of them. Question: the condenser is needed specifically for this model, or do you believe that can be beneficial for everyone? bybye
Frequent Flyer RC have you seen the fix? Mine is fixed now, put a small cap on 3.3V and GND. Now finally I can use this s*** 😂 wonder if you managed to get it working
Mar1us it was just a small cap I‘ve found on an old Esc. basically it covers up both pads from its size for imagination... does not matter whoch one, but mine was perfect in size
FF, Every other review I've seen has stated the TinyHawk is frsky, only. Thanks for pointing out the obvious fact tha the connectors for FLSKY and DSMX are right on the FC
I dig your videos. Your flying abilities are an inspiration, especially when I've watched you fly LOS, and you often share really good tips. I just wanted to let you know I appreciate you! One little tip when it comes to changing connectors on batteries, not so much for you, but to pass on to people newer to soldering and working with LiPos. It 's a good habit to get into, to cut one power lead and leave the connector on the other until after you've soldered the first. You'll reduce the chance of an accidental short circuit. Whereabouts in the US are you? I need a flying buddy/mentor. 😉 Happy flying and again, thanks for the videos! 😁👍👊
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop West Philadelphia, born and raised...? 😉 Sorry, I used to love that show! I'm all the way up in Vermont, but I have family in PA. No immediate plans, but if I ever get down that way I might shoot you a note to see if you're interested in going flying together. I associate your channel mostly with BNF micros, but I've probably only scratched the surface of your video catalog. Do you fly mini quads like 3 and 5 inchers much? And since you live in Philly I have to ask, do you know Doug Crasher, AKA Botgrinder?😨😉 Happy flying my man! Keep the videos coming. I'm 99.999% sure I already am, but I'll go check and subscribe if not. 😁👍👊
FWIW: I was kind of a fan of the super pointy, fine pencil type tips. Especially for certain whoop class FCs, some of which have near microscopic pads for some of the connections (camera, usually). But I kept seeing people whose opinion I value recommend chisel tips and they're right. Having switched back and forth between the two a good bit to see if I can tell a difference, the flat spot on a chisel tip really does make for way better heat transfer, which makes for faster work and much shorter heat exposure to the board and adjacent components. I might still use the fine pencil tip for the cam leads on whoop boards, but the chisel tip will be the "default" tip from here on out. I've heard that going to a larger chisel tip is helpful when you're doing power leads on mini quads, because the larger tip cools off less and keeps the solder flowing better when you're trying to heat up all that copper and heavy gauge wire. As much of a difference as chisel vs. fine conical tip makes, I'm definitely trying that approach on my upcoming build.
pulling on the motor wires?!? 😂 wow, nice way to break your motors connections! lift the FC and use some tweezers to unplug the plastic connectors, man
I'm not sure why I understand the need of adding a buzzer when you can use D-shot commands 🤔 I can hear mine from in the other room. A 25 volt cap??? You can get a 661-EMZR6R3ARA331MF6 6.3v 330uF That's way way WAY smaller. 1.5g is ALOT on something this small.
As for the active buzzer, it's better for most people to hear an audible warning for LVC as even though it might be on screen we tend to over look it and cook the battery. Dshot commands don't support LVC warning. Also, some don't like to have anything on the VTx feed at all. As for the cap, it's not heavy at all for a brushless system but I admit that if I knew it had to be on the 3.3v pad to work, I would have gone smaller. Emax released their statement on how to fix it almost a week after this video.
The little bitty motor bells don't make for much volume, so for people flying outside especially, a buzzer is going to be a whole lot easier to hear and locate. Between wind, crickets, other quads buzzing around etc., it can be really difficult to hear, so anything that increases your chances is a good thing.
@@FrequentFlyerRC ok i like the small chisel tip ones . i guess everyone has there favorites if you do need anything just ask ill help ya out if i can anytime . great video by the way
Thanks for making this video. I going to install the buzzer on my Tinyhawk S. I looks like it is the same as your board. Here is a link to amazon buzzers: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RH8TQK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Let me help you out here frequent, you dont need that xt30, its not a good idea s the esc is like 3amp, 2 watch this video as i fixed the brownout by puttung a small 20uf cap on the 3.3v pad and ground. ruclips.net/video/EOQdG1u9d1U/видео.html
Let me first ask, if you really know what your doing? The buzzer thing was nice but the rest is missleading. It just seems your trying to fix a problem without knowing the actual remedy :-) and now noobs will try the same, thinking they undestand when they don't (sorry noobs). Let me explain... You should use the right capacitor. That one is way over sized Voltage wise. You might want to use a solid state cap instead of the electrolytic ones. The solid state caps are alot smaller and more efficient, that is the reason they use them on flight controllers and it will fit better on that small kwad. I don't understand why no one uses those on drones, they are better, lighter, and potentially last for ever unlike Ecaps. Your problem is not the power cable, capasitor or any of the things your mentioning, sorry, but you have some other issue. When you say brown out, what are your talking about, the camera or the reciever? Brownouts or de-syncts as they are called can happen for many reasons, try placing the antenna better on the kwad, circular polarized antennas work better at 90 degrees, since the signal is sent and recieved through the length of it and not the tip. You could also bend the antenna on the radio so it is not sticking upright and pointing towards the kwad, but instead has the side of it towards where your flying. If it is the onboard reciever, you could try update the reciever firmware and your radio XJT internal module firmware on the taranis althoug I doubt that is the case. If it is the camera, change the antenna on the camera for a cloverleaf or change your goggle antenna to match the circular polarized one , they come in two versions I think, left and right polarized. Changing plugs won't do much since resistance in such a short wire is about 0 and was prooved by JB who intensively tested it. Hope this helps. As allways... fly hard!
SOLAR FPV Wow, you see this video as misleading?? You watch and listen to the whole video? I thought I was pretty clear that I said none of the things I tried successfully fixed the issue so why would a "noob" still do them? In what way am I "misleading" ?
Frequent Flyer RC - I watched it to the end, guess I should have watched it twice. I will watch again. About the missleading part,, though the mods are really cool and well done, and your explanation of the FC was great, the mods to solve the issue didn't help, but you have to watch till the end to find that out ;-) I am not critisizing, I was actually trying to help you solve your issue, but brown-outs can be many things, and you did'nt explain what you meant by that. I love your channel bro and wish I could help solve your issue. I am just concerned about new builders/flyers who use youtube as a guide, just like me, that is all. Since this hobby is complicated enough, they need the best and most correct info imo. I see now that your problem is the voltage, just pop it into betaflight and ajust the voltage , so you don't hear the beeper when getting voltage sag. Fly hard!
SOLAR FPV Emax themselves released a post saying the issue is to be solved with a capacitor as I tried, only it needed to be applied to the 5v and ground on the board because they explained it was the MCU locking up because it's designed to run off more than 3.4v...
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop Thanks brother, It does unlock it, but the next time I plugged a new battery in it had switched back to locked. So I guess unless you want to do that and resetup fq & channel every time you take new flight it is not worth it. Just like to keep mine on same fq and channel so I don`t have to change in googles every time I fly a different bird.
Is this the same tiny hawk that comes in the total kit with goggles controller battery and case if so will that buzzer on it also what is the difference between all the tiny Hawks I see the difference on the freestyle model but confused on the others all I saw was color and the ability to change the camera angle I'm tryin to learn this but spend more time looking for the dang when I lose orientation and crash so a.louder buzzer rather than motors will help I live in the woods so open space is limited any help would great also looking to upgrade the radio the one that came with it is too small for my hands what radio will bind to the tiny hawk and is a good investment so I don't have 6 radios laying around thanks for your time hope all is well
Differences between them are significant, the first only being 1S compatible while the 2nd (Tinyhawk S) does 2S. The newest one has better adjustable cam with better VTx at the sacrifice of performance allegedly (I don't have that one). I will soon be doing a video on the Jumper T8SG Multi-protocol controller which is a great transmitter to control multiple copters👍🏽
Looks like the demand from those motors is just too much for a 1S either that or there is a crappy voltage regulator on the FC. Great try and doing this for the team! You're one of the best advocates for our hobby and I salute you!
EMAX just released a mod tobypass the voltage sag at 3.3v, you need to solder a capacitor 10uf on the 3.3v solder points on the board. check out the Facebook post.
Isaias Perez - That’s cool! Thanks.
@@isaiasperez1906 thanks!
@@isaiasperez1906 Do you have a link to the FB post? This is new to me and I would like to learn more. Thanks!
You can grind down the point of solkdering iron to make it smaller.
If I can be understood...
I like the larger one. I have smaller tips too..
switch mode adaptors usually have Capacitors like that... Instead of 25v they have like 6v but much greater capacity like 1000uf
Thanks for the info
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop no problem
why dont you use dshot beacon for buzzer? not as loud as real buzzer but it works right?
Yes, beacon is setup already from factory but that only works as a lost model alarm. I like a buzzer for audio alert for LVC. Prefer audio over OSD as many times we forget to watch the OSD batt warning voltage..
Just got the tiny hawk kit with goggles and all love this little thing but will buzzer work like the one built into it it s not loud enough for me to hear spent four hours in the woods looking for could never hear it beeping too low if this is the fix where to order the beeper sir thanks for your time happy holidays
My Tinyhawk didn't have one built in. It used the motors as buzzer which wasn't very loud at all and could not buzz for low battery warning. Adding a buzzer makes it loud. If yours has a real buzzer already installed I wouldn't know how loud it is in comparison to mine because I never witnessed it. However, if yours only beeps when you hit the switch and not when the battery is low then, there is no buzzer.
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop no buzzer just what ever weak cry the motors due when you hit the switch if a buzzer is attached like you did will it beep when switch flipped to find
Yup. And for low batt too!
Nice LOS flying ! Impressive!
Thanks man 👍🏿
Hey do you know how to unlock the vtx?
hey bro.just been donated a few parts for my progect so was wondering the best frame for orio32 4in1 2020 and omnibus f4 v6 nano and best motors kids want speed on this one.allso are the willys wild special juice motors good.
I'm not familiar with any of the stuff Yo named! LOL
@@FrequentFlyerRC whats a good frame for 2020 stacks and some powerfull motors for same frame
ggreetings about the problem is that when it reaches 3.1V the drone seems to accelerate and slow down on its own, that's what you mean and with the capacitor it solves my problem like that, and so you get more flight time, I hope your answer
Exactly
I’ve only had mine a week, had a fairly heavy crash on concrete and now I’m getting a kind of vibrating sound, flies ok but what’s the sound. I’ve closely examined for damage, frame, props etc but there isn’t any. It’s just annoying, any ideas would be appreciated, I loved it when it was just smooth. Cheers.
Sounds like a motor bell might be ever so slightly bent. Next time you arm it don't give throttle, just pick up the drone and lean it to each corner for a few seconds causing the dipped motor to spin up faster than the others.. That way you can identify which motor is causing the sound👌
Frequent Flyer's RC ChopShop thanks I’ll try it.
This is how we get better results...experimentation. Great work
Thanks man! Indeed! 👍🏽
Which batteries do you think will work best in it without having to modify the drone?
Graphene 1S
Thanks brother for the link and as usual your flight style is inspirational. You are the king of small spaces!!
LOL thanks for watching man!
pretty sure there is a setting in betaflight you can turn on and use the escs as the buzzer. no soldering needed. also the brown outs you speak of happen around 3.4 volts? Look up other videos about low voltage on the tinyhawk. either solder on a small cap or get the newer batch.
Comes with ESCs already configured as buzzer but that feature is only good for lost model alarm and it's low. Real active buzzer works for LVC which is kinda important to set as reminder for catching it before it freaks out in LVC. Also, Emax just released this info on the lock up being caused by the MCU not having enough power at 3.4V. I added a cap in this video and it didn't work! But that's because Emax says the cap needs to be on the 5v out and - pad on the board. Check out the link in the comment before yours..
@@FlyerFrequency lvc is displayed in the osd. kinda seems redundant. the cap that you added was way to big and also from what ive watched the cap goes on the 3.3 positive to negative. needs a very small ceramic cap that about 10 micro ferrads I believe.
@@FlyerFrequency ruclips.net/video/KcyUqiMy-Mk/видео.html
Haven't you ever flown FPV and over looked the voltage in OSD and noticed late that the battery is half murdered? Happens a lot and not just to me. I personally think an active buzzer is more useful than not. Will definitely take it over OSD voltage reading as I think audible warning is harder to overlook. As for the capacitor, just check the dates of all the videos you find adding the capacitors to the pads on the board and you will probably find that all of them come AFTER the post from Emax themselves explaining what the problem is and advising to use a capacitor on the pads to fix the problem. Aside from adding the buzzer, all the other things I tried in the video was suggested by viewers who commented on another of my videos with options to try to solve the problem.
awesome info. do you know how to install a dsmx receiver to the tinyhawk ?
Yes but if you have a new version the capacitors are on the 3.3v pad needed
I didn't realize it didn't have a buzzer. Man nicely done
Thanks man
can you recommend a value priced transmitter for this little drone ? Thank You
This is a good one that works with everything here : amzn.to/2zeLmwJ
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop Thank You !!!
very good video, for the buzzer, where I buy it, leave a link
Thanks man! m.banggood.com/5V-Buzzer-Alarm-Beeper-With-Cable-for-Eachine-QX70-QX90-QX95-NAZE32-F3-DIY-Micro-Brushed-FPV-Racer-p-1100338.html?rmmds=search&admitad_uid=9588f9d3a84db613a0a073c239c878e9&tagtag_uid=9588f9d3a84db613a0a073c239c878e9&cur_warehouse=CN
Hey man, good stuff. I saw you had the dipole out of the casing. Noticeable difference in video? Sometimes I get some horizontal lines but they eventually go away. did you pull the receiver wire up too? was gonna do that if it's worth it. Thanks man!
Not really, fix the video by adding a cap to the 5v and ground on the board and solve the problem I was fooling around with in this video by adding another cap to the 3.3v and ground pads.
My Brother stuff that small try liquid solder on a toothpick. Also you my want to use some silicone to tack down the buzzer, plus it will provide a little cushion on impacts.
you mean to use liquid solder , right?
PauL TerL Yes, it is ez to work on small jobs, where as the wiring was little or no movement.
You think this can handle a 2s conversion mod?
Yes but can't handle 2S stock. Magic smoke on plug in!
Buzzer works! Ha ha
Frequent Flyer RC Sorry... this comment wasn’t supposed to be here, it was supposed to be in the regular section.
Ofcourse you can! Alot of work thoug! You would have to change the voltage regulators on the flight controller and alot of the onboard capacitors, it is dooable but you need the right knowledge and tools. Like a rework station, and basic knowledge of OHMs law, microcircuits and components, if you know all that you might aswell build your own FC from scratch.
I def like the buzzer mod. Will be doing that tomorrow. I have some micro buzzers that will work great. I noticed you used a gnb 600mah. I was wondering if they fit without any mod. Looks like it does. I already have (16) 450 mAh batts for mine but if the 600's fit, then I'll get some of those too.
Yes the 600mah fits without modification. Buzzer a must for me!
I know how it's hard to work on tinies!
Yesterday swapped out the faulty US65 board with a new one.
But I used the mec-hand that has a magnifying glass on it.
I have not been able to do it without.
The trasplant has been a success, with some bugs, but not caused by my solldering/assembling work.
Done a video and is my channel for who need it.
If you want, ffrc can you give a lokk and maybe solve some 'bugs' remained.
Ciao ffrc.
Maybe I will put a buzzer on my QX90X.
I have 5 of them.
Question: the condenser is needed specifically for this model, or do you believe that can be beneficial for everyone?
bybye
Cool! I need to get a US65
@@FrequentFlyerRC Yeah, is cool, but is brittle and fragile.
But do you have replayed to my question?
I'm not sure if I have a later version but mine has a Dshot beacon out of the box.
Yes, this one had Dshot beacon out of the box too. Added an active buzzer for audible LVC warning.. Dshot commands at the moment cannot do that..
nice vid, thX.
but seems to me at the end that it is still browning out? I‘m thinking in soldering a sepparated rx into mine, same issue
Yup, that was conclusion in the video in text. I think it need better batts
Frequent Flyer RC have you seen the fix? Mine is fixed now, put a small cap on 3.3V and GND. Now finally I can use this s*** 😂 wonder if you managed to get it working
Tullyo eL tUllHaO what kind off cap did you use?
Mar1us it was just a small cap I‘ve found on an old Esc. basically it covers up both pads from its size for imagination... does not matter whoch one, but mine was perfect in size
How many volts does the buzzer work
5v
Nice review. I would like to know where bought the buzzer from and the model number?? Love your chop shop videos!!
store.rotorriot.com/dys-micro-buzzer/
Here: 10pcs 3V 5V Active Electric Buzzer for Arduino Naze32 CC3D F4 Flight Controller www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYL2QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R137BbWCTD2XH
I get them (5) from BG
Great job👍🏽😎👍🏽
Thanks man!
FF,
Every other review I've seen has stated the TinyHawk is frsky, only. Thanks for pointing out the obvious fact tha the connectors for FLSKY and DSMX are right on the FC
Indeed lol
can u fly this on frsky x-lite transmitter?
Yes, FRSky is FRSky. But, bind in D8 mode.
Yup
Dude awesome video
Thanks man! 👍🏽
Good info. Thanks!
Happy to be of help! 👌🏽
Great additions and a nice look inside 👍🏻
Thanks! 😁 👍🏽
can add futaba micro rx?
Yes
@@FrequentFlyerRC thank you
I dig your videos. Your flying abilities are an inspiration, especially when I've watched you fly LOS, and you often share really good tips. I just wanted to let you know I appreciate you! One little tip when it comes to changing connectors on batteries, not so much for you, but to pass on to people newer to soldering and working with LiPos. It 's a good habit to get into, to cut one power lead and leave the connector on the other until after you've soldered the first. You'll reduce the chance of an accidental short circuit. Whereabouts in the US are you? I need a flying buddy/mentor. 😉 Happy flying and again, thanks for the videos! 😁👍👊
Thanks man! Good tip!
I'm in Philadelphia
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop West Philadelphia, born and raised...? 😉 Sorry, I used to love that show! I'm all the way up in Vermont, but I have family in PA. No immediate plans, but if I ever get down that way I might shoot you a note to see if you're interested in going flying together. I associate your channel mostly with BNF micros, but I've probably only scratched the surface of your video catalog. Do you fly mini quads like 3 and 5 inchers much? And since you live in Philly I have to ask, do you know Doug Crasher, AKA Botgrinder?😨😉 Happy flying my man! Keep the videos coming. I'm 99.999% sure I already am, but I'll go check and subscribe if not. 😁👍👊
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop hi, really good pilot...were you in acro mode or Horizon while doing the fly test? Thanks
220 picofaranite condenser.
Really? Not capacitor?
Your soldering iron tip looks like it seen better days. Haha lol. For a job like that you need a pencil tip . I guess what ever works. Nice video.👍👍
I find it's better with flat slanted edge. The extra surface area heats pads more quick!
@@FrequentFlyerRC Good point!
FWIW: I was kind of a fan of the super pointy, fine pencil type tips. Especially for certain whoop class FCs, some of which have near microscopic pads for some of the connections (camera, usually). But I kept seeing people whose opinion I value recommend chisel tips and they're right. Having switched back and forth between the two a good bit to see if I can tell a difference, the flat spot on a chisel tip really does make for way better heat transfer, which makes for faster work and much shorter heat exposure to the board and adjacent components. I might still use the fine pencil tip for the cam leads on whoop boards, but the chisel tip will be the "default" tip from here on out. I've heard that going to a larger chisel tip is helpful when you're doing power leads on mini quads, because the larger tip cools off less and keeps the solder flowing better when you're trying to heat up all that copper and heavy gauge wire. As much of a difference as chisel vs. fine conical tip makes, I'm definitely trying that approach on my upcoming build.
U need a ts100 bro. 😎
What's that?
The best soldering iron. And its so cheap 👍
@@jandomingo9806 Brand?
@@paulterl4563 just go banggood and search it there. All i know its the soldering iron all pilots use.
They are on sale at Bang Good right now for $44 US. At that price I almost bought another just for my toolbox.
But I didn't.
pulling on the motor wires?!? 😂 wow, nice way to break your motors connections! lift the FC and use some tweezers to unplug the plastic connectors, man
🤣😂🤣😂🤣 indeed!
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop indeed, indeed
I'm not sure why I understand the need of adding a buzzer when you can use D-shot commands 🤔
I can hear mine from in the other room.
A 25 volt cap???
You can get a 661-EMZR6R3ARA331MF6
6.3v 330uF
That's way way WAY smaller.
1.5g is ALOT on something this small.
As for the active buzzer, it's better for most people to hear an audible warning for LVC as even though it might be on screen we tend to over look it and cook the battery. Dshot commands don't support LVC warning. Also, some don't like to have anything on the VTx feed at all. As for the cap, it's not heavy at all for a brushless system but I admit that if I knew it had to be on the 3.3v pad to work, I would have gone smaller. Emax released their statement on how to fix it almost a week after this video.
The little bitty motor bells don't make for much volume, so for people flying outside especially, a buzzer is going to be a whole lot easier to hear and locate. Between wind, crickets, other quads buzzing around etc., it can be really difficult to hear, so anything that increases your chances is a good thing.
nice work bro
Thanks man
Nice job!!!
Thanks man👍🏽
hey brother you want a smaller solder tip ill send you one
I have them but it seems to me that the slanted ones heat up faster and work better at getting the solder flowing faster..
@@FrequentFlyerRC ok i like the small chisel tip ones . i guess everyone has there favorites if you do need anything just ask ill help ya out if i can anytime . great video by the way
I just bought my Tinyhawk and it seems like both of these mods are now stock.
Good to hear! 👍🏿
You need a bigger soldering iron! :-)
Lol
Thanks for making this video. I going to install the buzzer on my Tinyhawk S. I looks like it is the same as your board. Here is a link to amazon buzzers: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RH8TQK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did a video on adding a buzzer to the Tinyhawk S too!
Let me help you out here frequent, you dont need that xt30, its not a good idea s the esc is like 3amp, 2 watch this video as i fixed the brownout by puttung a small 20uf cap on the 3.3v pad and ground. ruclips.net/video/EOQdG1u9d1U/видео.html
It woyld be nice if you could pin my comment as many are having problems with brownouts
you missed the post a couple comments earlier that leads to a message from Emax
themselves explaining the problem and how to remedy it..
@@FrequentFlyerRC Dont need to look at it because my video solves it too as i did it myself
I think you're missing the point though, the Emax post says to do exactly what you did and it was released before your video was..
@@FrequentFlyerRC Hope you srent implying that i copied them but if you arent then pin their message instead.
Let me first ask, if you really know what your doing? The buzzer thing was nice but the rest is missleading. It just seems your trying to fix a problem without knowing the actual remedy :-) and now noobs will try the same, thinking they undestand when they don't (sorry noobs). Let me explain... You should use the right capacitor. That one is way over sized Voltage wise. You might want to use a solid state cap instead of the electrolytic ones. The solid state caps are alot smaller and more efficient, that is the reason they use them on flight controllers and it will fit better on that small kwad. I don't understand why no one uses those on drones, they are better, lighter, and potentially last for ever unlike Ecaps. Your problem is not the power cable, capasitor or any of the things your mentioning, sorry, but you have some other issue. When you say brown out, what are your talking about, the camera or the reciever? Brownouts or de-syncts as they are called can happen for many reasons, try placing the antenna better on the kwad, circular polarized antennas work better at 90 degrees, since the signal is sent and recieved through the length of it and not the tip. You could also bend the antenna on the radio so it is not sticking upright and pointing towards the kwad, but instead has the side of it towards where your flying. If it is the onboard reciever, you could try update the reciever firmware and your radio XJT internal module firmware on the taranis althoug I doubt that is the case. If it is the camera, change the antenna on the camera for a cloverleaf or change your goggle antenna to match the circular polarized one , they come in two versions I think, left and right polarized. Changing plugs won't do much since resistance in such a short wire is about 0 and was prooved by JB who intensively tested it. Hope this helps. As allways... fly hard!
Lmao you also slightly dont know what you are talking about, i made a video on the remedy to his problem. ruclips.net/video/EOQdG1u9d1U/видео.html
SOLAR FPV Wow, you see this video as misleading?? You watch and listen to the whole video? I thought I was pretty clear that I said none of the things I tried successfully fixed the issue so why would a "noob" still do them? In what way am I "misleading" ?
Frequent Flyer RC - I watched it to the end, guess I should have watched it twice. I will watch again. About the missleading part,, though the mods are really cool and well done, and your explanation of the FC was great, the mods to solve the issue didn't help, but you have to watch till the end to find that out ;-) I am not critisizing, I was actually trying to help you solve your issue, but brown-outs can be many things, and you did'nt explain what you meant by that. I love your channel bro and wish I could help solve your issue. I am just concerned about new builders/flyers who use youtube as a guide, just like me, that is all. Since this hobby is complicated enough, they need the best and most correct info imo. I see now that your problem is the voltage, just pop it into betaflight and ajust the voltage , so you don't hear the beeper when getting voltage sag. Fly hard!
Bonemyster FPV - thanks... live and learn some more.
SOLAR FPV Emax themselves released a post saying the issue is to be solved with a capacitor as I tried, only it needed to be applied to the 5v and ground on the board because they explained it was the MCU locking up because it's designed to run off more than 3.4v...
Has this model too much problems or what??
C'mon Emax!!!!!!.....
Not many problems, just the one. LOL
@@FrequentFlyerRC What is the problem?
Dude why do you need a buzzer and the other mods at 1.8 grams is to much . You dont need that
1.8g too much for you? Can't tell the difference in flight.. I don't pay attention to the OSD sometimes so I prefer audible LVC
Hey do you know how to unlock the vtx?
Hey do you know how to unlock the vtx?
I think you hold the button in while plugging in 👌🏽
@@FrequentFlyersRCChopShop Thanks brother, It does unlock it, but the next time I plugged a new battery in it had switched back to locked. So I guess unless you want to do that and resetup fq & channel every time you take new flight it is not worth it. Just like to keep mine on same fq and channel so I don`t have to change in googles every time I fly a different bird.