Brad! new watcher and getting into club tinkering, have a grinding wheel on order with a bunch of other stuff would you possibly ever make a video showing how to put the club head back on AND align it correctly Would love to see a generic grip tutorial aswell with aligning!!!! im scared i wont assemble it all back together right
@@BradMeehan , no, but it was very interesting, thank you. Callaway use a stick pin, and black epoxy, I think. There is very little on RUclips about them. Also, the ferrules are not available, so people use o rings??!? I have two to do, and am scarred!!!
Been watching your vids (as well as some other club refurb creators) with the intent of refurbishing a set of Maxfli Australian Blades 4-PW. Thanks for the tutorials & equipment links!!
You're welcome. My last video was an Australian blade. I don't think there are other channels doing the electroplating, so reach out of you have any questions.
is there a definitive way of knowing whether the club head is threaded or just epoxy’d? I have a Gary Player Slazenger 2 iron and even with heat from butane flame the ferrule melting away I can’t seem to budge it screwing or pulling 😮💨
I would ask on the Hickory and Vintage forum on GolfWRX. Someone there will know for sure. forums.golfwrx.com/forum/246-hickory-persimmon-and-classic-clubs/ You could need more heat, like the MAP gas torch I've been murdering ferrules with. You could also have a shaft that corroded and fused to the hosel. I've had a few of those that you just have to cut, then have someone bore out the remaining shaft. I usually give up by then and make wall art.
@BradMeehan, this answer is concerning. I have a full set of Slazenger Randall Vines blades (cannot find any evidence of their age or existence). None of the heads will budge... even with the strong smell of melted epoxy as it's bubbling out around the hossel
Have you done any clubs where you thought removing shaft might devalue it unless it goes back on, thinking hickory, but also some one off clubs like the Bobby Jones Jr pyratone Spalding, I have a set I want to do but am worried about damaging the pyratone coating with heat and also they are kro-flite cushion neck, the long hozzels are beautiful and part of the value of the club. Also persimmon woods, I know some have long pins in from the heel? Honesty I have a million questions all relating to specific clubs.
Great stuff Brad, thanks. For the clubhead where the pin is on one side and you tap it into the hosel, what happens when you go to reassemble? What happens to the pin? Is there a way to reuse the pin? Sorry if it was explained and I missed this. Thanks 👍
You can reuse the pin, but I've read that welding rods are the same diameter and can be cut to size to tap back into the hole. It's cosmetic at that point if you also use epoxy for reassembly.
Thanks for another good video Brad. Always enjoy your presentations. I’m still stumped by the screw in shaft on the Spaulding, I’ve never encountered that. Wouldn’t know to look for one, how did you figure it out?
That should work provided you can get the temperature hot enough. You could even put it over your gas stove but melting the ferrule would be my only concern. If you're going to replace it, then it's not a problem.
@@BradMeehan Thanks Brad! i'll definitely try a heat gun first then move to a torch. My stove is an electric stove so the torch would be the only option. Thanks for the response!
Brad I have a 12 degree, adjustable Taylormade Sim 2 Draw Driver, changed it to 14 degrees. I now want to return to 12 degrees, I cannot separate the driver from the shaft. Tried pulling and WD 40, won’t come out, don’t want to heat it, any ideas as to how I can get shaft out. Thanks
My Wilson dynapower driver gets stuck in the adapter too. I have to karate chop it to hit it off. I've even lubed it up when it's off and it still gets stuck. Just hit (with your hand) in the top of the head and it should budge.
Got advice from an Australian who twiddles about with clubs he suggested that I unscrew the the screw about 4 turns get the tool used and hit down on screw, or something thinner then take out screw and hit down. Used the former and it worked a treat, you have a hit a bit harder than you think. Well pleased.
Brad you should read Childrens book with that soothing tone of yours. 📖📚
We might hear a few soothing F-bombs on the course today.
Phenomenal work as always Brad. That Children’s Book VO career could be a nice side hustle
Brad!
new watcher and getting into club tinkering,
have a grinding wheel on order with a bunch of other stuff
would you possibly ever make a video showing how to put the club head back on AND align it correctly
Would love to see a generic grip tutorial aswell with aligning!!!!
im scared i wont assemble it all back together right
Hi Brad! Would love to see bore through removal and replacement, like the old Callaway irons 🤞🏻
Check this out and let me know if this is what you're referring to. ruclips.net/video/PjVccoBA5kk/видео.html
@@BradMeehan , no, but it was very interesting, thank you. Callaway use a stick pin, and black epoxy, I think. There is very little on RUclips about them. Also, the ferrules are not available, so people use o rings??!? I have two to do, and am scarred!!!
Been watching your vids (as well as some other club refurb creators) with the intent of refurbishing a set of Maxfli Australian Blades 4-PW. Thanks for the tutorials & equipment links!!
You're welcome. My last video was an Australian blade. I don't think there are other channels doing the electroplating, so reach out of you have any questions.
Another great video Brad, you make it look so easy!
Thanks, mate. I love your channel.
is there a definitive way of knowing whether the club head is threaded or just epoxy’d? I have a Gary Player Slazenger 2 iron and even with heat from butane flame the ferrule melting away I can’t seem to budge it screwing or pulling 😮💨
I would ask on the Hickory and Vintage forum on GolfWRX. Someone there will know for sure.
forums.golfwrx.com/forum/246-hickory-persimmon-and-classic-clubs/
You could need more heat, like the MAP gas torch I've been murdering ferrules with.
You could also have a shaft that corroded and fused to the hosel. I've had a few of those that you just have to cut, then have someone bore out the remaining shaft.
I usually give up by then and make wall art.
@BradMeehan, this answer is concerning. I have a full set of Slazenger Randall Vines blades (cannot find any evidence of their age or existence).
None of the heads will budge... even with the strong smell of melted epoxy as it's bubbling out around the hossel
Thank you, Brad.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Have you done any clubs where you thought removing shaft might devalue it unless it goes back on, thinking hickory, but also some one off clubs like the Bobby Jones Jr pyratone Spalding, I have a set I want to do but am worried about damaging the pyratone coating with heat and also they are kro-flite cushion neck, the long hozzels are beautiful and part of the value of the club. Also persimmon woods, I know some have long pins in from the heel? Honesty I have a million questions all relating to specific clubs.
Great video Brad... thanks.
Great stuff Brad, thanks. For the clubhead where the pin is on one side and you tap it into the hosel, what happens when you go to reassemble? What happens to the pin? Is there a way to reuse the pin? Sorry if it was explained and I missed this. Thanks 👍
You can reuse the pin, but I've read that welding rods are the same diameter and can be cut to size to tap back into the hole. It's cosmetic at that point if you also use epoxy for reassembly.
Any tips on getting a wooden head off a steel shaft? Can't heat applied to the head of course
Thanks for another good video Brad. Always enjoy your presentations. I’m still stumped by the screw in shaft on the Spaulding, I’ve never encountered that. Wouldn’t know to look for one, how did you figure it out?
I read about it a while back and when I couldn't get the head off, I realized this must be one of those clubs with the threads. Sure enough!
Hi Brad, would a heat gun provide the same result when heating up the head for removal? Or should I always be using a torch
That should work provided you can get the temperature hot enough. You could even put it over your gas stove but melting the ferrule would be my only concern. If you're going to replace it, then it's not a problem.
@@BradMeehan Thanks Brad! i'll definitely try a heat gun first then move to a torch. My stove is an electric stove so the torch would be the only option. Thanks for the response!
Brad I have a 12 degree, adjustable Taylormade Sim 2 Draw Driver, changed it to 14 degrees. I now want to return to 12 degrees, I cannot separate the driver from the shaft. Tried pulling and WD 40, won’t come out, don’t want to heat it, any ideas as to how I can get shaft out. Thanks
My Wilson dynapower driver gets stuck in the adapter too. I have to karate chop it to hit it off. I've even lubed it up when it's off and it still gets stuck. Just hit (with your hand) in the top of the head and it should budge.
Got advice from an Australian who twiddles about with clubs he suggested that I unscrew the the screw about 4 turns get the tool used and hit down on screw, or something thinner then take out screw and hit down. Used the former and it worked a treat, you have a hit a bit harder than you think. Well pleased.
I pour boiling water on the ferrule and use all my might to slide it up the shaft. 80% success rate with this technique.
Or a hair drier works every time...
Just did this and it works great. Thanks for the tip.
I used your tip in my new Mizuno video. Worked great!