I cannot believe it took me this long to come accross your channel bud. My gosh how much time you could have saved me if i only knew and watched you from the start a few years back
So glad I found your channel! Thank you for doing everything on the cheap and your explanations are so much fun! I’m looking forward to watching many many many many more of your videos and hopefully trying out your techniques.
This video is what inspired me to have a go at nickel plating. I’ve literally just built the tank with aeration and a heater..I’m just waiting on my chemicals to have a go at this. Thank you 🙏🏼
@@BradMeehan I’m having next to no success with it all. I’ve converted my white vinegar into nickel acetate, I have heat and circulation and two nickel plates on the positive and the bar across the top on the negative. I’ve set the voltage to 3 volts and tried at 4.5 and still nothing plates...my copper bubbles but just seems to barely get anything on it even after 45 minutes...what’s wrong??
@@BradMeehan I’ve tried with copper pipe and I’ve also tried with a stainless steel club head...I’ve even degreased and acid pickled the items too...I’m so confused
@@brianhull5125 any way to check the voltage across the anode to the bar? Hold positive lead on the anode, negative on the bar and see if you have 4 volts?
Your videos are so addicting!! I stumbled on them this morning working 12 hours. I have watched a few now and they aree interesting!! I think most golfers like good looking clean clubs!! I subbed your channel too!!
I love watching your videos, I'm a actually starting my new job as a club fitter, so exciting!!!. Your videos are actually helping me learn alot about the craft. I have so Mizuno MP14's, I got them cheap in a goodwill, some were not in great condition. I'm missing the 7 and 9 iron but their amazing to hit. The problem is the groves, they seem like they were grinded down with a dremel. Can this be be fixed with copper? Make a video on this, please! Thank you for the videos, keep them coming.
I watch your beautiful video more than 5 times, and I enjoyed every time. Great job, really great job from a wonderful man. Thanks bro. I wish you do it with chrome once time on another beautiful chromic thing. I like it. I searched lot and didn't find a Applicable video But It was so simple and so professional also. I've been looking for it a lot. ❤❤❤❤ Thanks man Love u from Iran.
Hi Brad, thanks for the vids... I say vids instead of videos because I simply do not have the time to type the extra I O :).... I am wondering if it's possible to do a batch plating all at once? Grind, sand, polish, etc, to an 8 -10 club batch of irons, then put all of the heads in to the solution you made up in the video? Thank you.
Yes, but here's the catch: your anodes need to be about twice the surface area of the item you're plating, so you'd need a pretty hefty sized nickel anode to keep up with plating onto the club heads. I do more of an assembly line where I have one in the plating tank while I'm polishing the next so there's no time for the club heads to start corroding again.
Ya thats probably the best set up i have seen yet cheers bro for posting i couldnt get nickel in large enough size guitar strings are nickel wound but went with nickel welding rods think they are 50% nickel so not as shiny but did the job and not rusting...
Nickel isn't too difficult and it can come out very pretty and good protection too. It's not chrome, but also... the advantage is that it's not chrome. Rumour has it you can also add a layer of rhodium plating on top as another home option, but i haven't tried.
@@brfam1977 She does! I usually show her in person the progress I'm making but she still likes to watch the final video. She says they're really satisfying to watch - especially on the full restoration videos where i don't talk. Haha.
Thanks Brad, your videos are great! I'm learning so much and may incorporate this into my golf club hobby builds. Some of my family and friends have golf clubs they don't want to part with, but are looking quite beat up at this point!! In regards to this video, can you not do more than one at a time or did you only do this one golf iron for the purpose of simplifying how to do this? Thanks.
I do one at a time so I can tackle it in an assembly line way - meaning, I can plate a club while i'm sanding/polishing the next. They start to corrode if the bare steel is left sitting. Also, the size of the anode needs to be about twice the surface area of the item that you're plating. These little anodes aren't big enough to handle more. If you have a bigger setup, you can do multiple. Also, I'm lazy and a mega-procrastinator.
Was drinking coffee when you said “for my homies” and I spat it out all over my couch in laughter, I will be sending you the dry cleaning bill !!, but thanks for the info! Save me money and gives me confidence to DIY this!
Quick question if I sent you clubs could you do a video and charge me instead of me screwing things up. This could be a lucrative business users sending clubs in to be refinished. I have a set of mp64's I would like done. I also have mp54's depending on if you do and price maybe I send you both sets. Either way love your channel and will watch all content you put out.
Perhaps a hook solution that goes into the hosel in order to not have the exterior of the heads touch the suspension? I was mildly concerned that the touching points might look slightly different from the rest of the head? Or get less build-up of nickel in those spots?
love this shi!!!!!!!! Definitely inspired myself!!! Would be curious to see some different finishes with golf shafts, a nickel plated golf shaft with matching head would be bada$$$
Awesome videos brother. I found it easy to understand & follow your instructions. However, i read your description & you stated you used "nickle strike" before you submerged the part in the Nickle Bright Solution. I don't recall seeing you demonstrate using that procedure. Do you think you could do a quick video on that? Once again, awesome videos & tutorials. Thank you & Go! Pack! Go!
excellent video! If you repeat the process several times, can several layers of plating adhere? At how much voltage did you supply the plating tub? How did you remove the plate from the golf clubs? regards Thank you very much for the video greetings from Monterrey Mexico!!
Check out this link: ruclips.net/video/VRiefpq1iVs/видео.html This is how I removed the old finish. You can replate it again buy you'll have to reactivate the nickel using a nickel activation solution (also sold by those guys) for it to bond.
I forgot to answer the voltage question: I started with 4.5 volts and 1 amp, but lowered it to 3.5 volts and .5 amp on the second club but let it plate longer.
Do you find that using an airstone with very fine fast moving bubbles work better or does an airstone that produces larger air bubbles work best? Also, do you put the airstone directly on the item you are plating or a distance from it so the solution is just circulating and moving?
Hello Brad can you go thru all the items needed and a more in-depth video on how to make n get the correct supplies to make one to diy my clubs. Thank you. These are awesome dyi videos
This is awesome. I'm going to follow these steps and see if I can't restore some life into older clubs that I have laying around - specifically some old wedges. I saw a comment response earlier where you said that you stop at Nickel because Chrome plating isn't DIY friendly. What makes that the case? The amount of power required, cost, safety? Thanks!
I wonder if this would work with plastic, like for model kits? Trying to find a good chrome that is durable for plastic is really tough ... or very expensive. Great video. Thanks...
@@BradMeehan Hey Brad, I will do! I have a question for you - The T-Zoids have a pretty degraded chrome plating. I'm thinking about sanding it off by hand, or using a hydrochloric acid to pull it off the nickel underneath... Would that be how you'd go about it? I thought about trying reverse plating to remove the chrome, but it seems like quite a toxic and dangerous process, as it is actual chromium not brightened nickel, so was keen to avoid it...
@@Angelokwells Acid is the fastest. Legal disclaimer: I would research the safest method for your application. I'm just a dude in my basement shining old golf crap. I got C's in school.
Hey , really like the video and I found it very informative. The only thing I can't find out is whether or not nickel plating in this small a size gives off harmful fumes or not. I can't find a straight answer any where on google
Indefinitely if you keep it clean. The nickel anodes continually feed the solution. The nickel that doesn't stick to the club remains in the liquid. That said, you will have to replace the nickel anodes as they are being eaten as you plate. Hope that makes sense.
@@BradMeehan Makes sense yeh. This might sound dumb but essentially, why would you wanna plate the club head ? couldn't you leave it as is after simply polishing ? Thanks a lot for the knowledge
Do you need to use the wand and nickel activator before putting the clean clubhead into the bath? I see on here you didnt do that but on that beautiful vokey video you did brush the head woth nickel activator. Thanks brad!
Bro this is such amazing knowledge your sharing thank you. I sell golf clubs on eBay and this will allow me to give customers a better product and possibly make more money 🙏
Thank you. I'm glad it helped! I was thinking of buying two identical clubs then just cleaning one, and fully restoring the other to see the difference in selling price on eBay. I'd bet 5X at least.
Does the piece that's being plated show any blemishes at the points where it rests on the copper hook? Do you move it around periodically? Great video, thanks
It could. I've adapted my tank to be taller so I can hang it from the hosel now. I bought a plastic flour container and it's a good size. Check out some of the newer videos to see what it looks like. The rest is the same setup.
📍Decent setup tips! My only constructive criticism is “Once you submerge your part in the plating bath don’t TAKE IT OUT! You’ll find that on page 44 if you got the Caswell manual.😉 2nd is having a consistent temp of 135-140° for the Bright Nickel Solution while plating. [I didn’t notice a heater in the video or mention] 📍You did mention doing an “Electro-Clean” in your text, but didn’t mention the more important “Surface Activator” just before you drop the part in the Nickel Bath. It is very cheap way to be sure your part takes the Nickel! Lee
Excellent. I've done some metal cleaning with electricity and accidentally put some copper onto cast iron. So I've plated before, but not properly. I'm also familiar with making power sources. Thanks for the tutorial. Question, is there any limit to how many clubheads we plate at once? Looks like 2 or 3 might hang in your tank, more if bigger. Any drawbacks to that?
The only limit is real estate in the tank and the size of your anodes. The rule of thumb is the anodes have to be twice the size of the surface area of the club. Then, you'll need to adjust your current to accout for the additional draw. I'm still learning too, but this is what I've gathered at this point. Also, I appreciate you taking the time to comment!
Great video, totally new so forgive me… but is there any fumes that come off of the solution? Just wondering about any precautions to take when setting up to plate a club. Thanks!
This is great, extremely helpful. I have a set of mp 32's that I'm working with as well. Can you do multiple heads at the same time with this process or does it have to be 1 at a time?
You can, but you'd need larger anodes and a bigger tank. It plates better when the distance to your part isn't too close to the anode, so real estate in the tank is prime. This DIY stuff is st most going to handle two at a time.
Another great video which makes this look simple. Must try it. However, curious about the paint fill; the head seemed to emerge with perfect fill? Do you do the paint fill before dipping on the basis that the nicol won't attach to the paint? Would it not be better to plate the whole head and then paint fill?
Just lazy on my part and wanting to try it out. Acetone would remove the paint fill and would alleviate the risk of contaminating the nickel. Next video will be how to finish the face.
Brad, as usual, id like to thank you for showing the rest of us how to do this. The positively charged metal that you're using... What are they called so i can get them from Home Depot? Right now Ii don't know what they're called or what they are for that matter. I'm assuming that they're nickel plated metal in order to get the nickel to adhere to the negatively charged golf iron. I live in Canada, so to be on the safe side as far as sourcing some of this stuff, what should i ask for or look for to get those metal plates? If you don't get them from Home Depot, let me know so hopefully we have the same chain of stores here in Canada as well. Thanks in advance for your help and guidance. You're such a great guy doung all these videos for us laymen! I was wondering why you only do one at a time, but then I read a reply to one of my own comments and you explained why you only do one at a time. Once removed from the suspension, the metal starts to corrode quickly if left sitting for some time. That makes a lot of sense to do one at a time. Thanks man, you're awesome!!
What kind of power supply do you need for doing your plating - VDC and Amps? I have a set of Maxfli TM-92 Australian Blades that I have been playing for 20 years and I love them but they have gotten little dings and dents all over them from clanking around in the bag over the years and I would like to restore them to like new again and am doing some research.
Can you describe your process before playing? Do you degrease then prep with a muriatic acid mix? And if I scuff the surface before with a scotch brite pad will this plating still give it a uniformly smooth look? Thanks for your content man!!
How far before plating? After it's been polished? I use the acid for rust and some chrome removal before polishing. Once it's polished, I use the electrocleaner to really get the piece clean from any oils from the polishing compound, I active any remaining nickel that may be on the club so it can accept new nickel, then into the tank for a few hours. The club will take on the condition of the underlying metal, so if you see brush marks from the Scotch-Brite, you will see it in the plating. A heavy layer of copper first will help fill in the scuffs, but it's just easier to polish than go to that extra step. Polishing takes no effort. You're just standing there and letting the wheel do the work. Keep the questions coming so I know you are successful at this. Also, practice on a junk club.
Exciting videos! I have a set of old titleist tour model from 81, they are fully playable as they are… But it would be really cool to have them in a mint condition. Chroming seems as a no go as a DIY process! How does the Nickel plating hold up for wear & tear? Other then that I guess it is just to follow your videos with the mizuno clubs? Great videos!!
Let's go! You can do this. This video was my first time trying anything like this. I'm a self-admitted moron, so if I can figure it out, you can do it with ease.
if i were to plate a round piece of steel 1.25" diameter and 25" long will this work or do i need more voltage/amps, i want plating to be as thick as i can get it. thanks and very good presentation
Check out my Electroless Nickel video. That may be a better option for this use case. But yes, you'd have to do a bit of math. There's a calculator on the Caswell site to help with power requirements for your parts. It takes into consideration the entire surface area to be plated.
Hey Brad I’m guessing if you go through the polishing process without the electroplating the clubs will corrode? This step is required or they will rust after polishing?
brother this is fuc@&n awesome!!!! i just learn how to change my own grips, ow i want to learn all this!!! how do you properly dispose of the liquids after you don’t need them?
Don't even know where to begin with the compliments or questions, so many of both, awesome stuff. Anyway I recently found a set of Fila F-02's that i crushed on back in early 90's in really good shape except some of the finish has peeled a bit on three irons at the bottom of the faces and I wanted to to try electro plating but not sure where to start. Do you have to blast the clubs before plating? Also what would you do for a cavity back iron to keep the plating out. Anyway way thanks for taking the time, awesome
Great video. How far will one mix go.? Like can you do several clubs in that one mix? How would you gauge when it's ready for replacement solution? Cheers!
It will last indefinitely of you keep it clean. You can add more distilled water to raise the level if it gets low. The inky thing you'll have to replace is the nickel anode because it gets eaten away as it sacrifices metal into the solution. I'll make a video about Tank Maintenance for you.
Thank you. There's a link in the description to power supplies on Amazon of you can access it. I bought an inexpensive one that was maybe 50 dollars. It's a brand called TackLife, but the brand won't matter. I only chose it because of the price and had decent reviews, so you can pick any. You can also make your own with an old charger (if you're super cheap like me). I have a video on my channel on how to make one. But you'd be better off buying one.
Can you talk a bit about the durability of nickel vs chrome plating? Will nickel plating hold up to the extended rigors a golf club goes through, or is replacing necessary after a while? When should you use chrome and when nickel? Thanks.!!
Just finished my first plating: a Ben Hogan Special 56 that was in tough shape when I acquired it. I took out the nicks, dechromed, cleaned, prepped and plated, like I learned from you. It's not perfect, there are a few spots and less lustrous places, but overall it's a winner. Sandblasting the face is next then I'm gonna shaft it, grip it and play it. Thanks, man!
Oops, spoke too soon. The sandblasting didn't go well. Didn't mask it enough. Nickel is flaking off hosel now. Starting over. What causes spots, like water spots on a window?
I got the nike slingshot, I just don't know about taking the clup head off and being able to put it !ack on. Its on the steal shaft. For now I want to polish it first. And see how it turns out. Also should I give it texture with the sand blower? I really enjoy your channel! Thanks again!
Word. Just put masking tape on the plastic ferrule on the shaft so you don't mess with it and you should be ok. That's the only thing you could damage. Sand with paper, then buff it you have a buffer (or make one like my tutorial). That should get you started and comfortable.
Is this how companies that refurbish clubs do it? How does this hold up over time afterwards? Let’s say 1 golf season? And if it’s not going to hold well then is there anything you can do to make it more durable?
@kevanpillay9701 it's limited by the size of the nickel anode. It must be 2x the surface area of the club. You're better doing an assembly line and polishing one while the other is plating
Do you take old chrome and nickel off first, if so how? How long do the annodes last? The green solution can be saved if you take out and do a copper bath correct? Amazing work Brad!
Greetings Brad, love your channel and thanks for making the video. What material did you use for the positive electrodes? I am thinking about doing this to my Ping cat eye set which is just plane dull stainless. What type of pre treatment would they need? Just an acid dip before plating to remove oxidation? Also need to remove any paint. Thanks again
For stainless, you won't have to do any of these steps. You can just sand and polish them as-is. If you want to make them matte like their original finish, you can spray it with your sand blaster to dull it down after polishing (unless you want it shiny)
Total, I'd say a 2 hours but I kept jacking with the voltages. The longer you leave it, the brighter and thicker it gets. I left the wedge in there for 4 hours on a lower voltage. "Slow and low" is the recommendation.
When you strip a club head by reversing this method, would you then be able to use the cathode as an anode to put the chrome back on after smoothing out the club head?
Sorry I missed this. I don't think you can re-chrome like that. Caswell sells chrome plating kits, but it's expensive (to me) and there are safety concerns.
So, I did my first wedge with steps youve put in video. Got all my stuff from caswell. It turned out great. I then prepped and did a 2nd wedge, and it came out with a black/chrome spiral finish...found out that my cable that connected the annodes dropped into the nickel solution during the plating process (im guessing some plastic got melted off). I tested with another club and got some "icky" results. I'm wondering if the solution got contaminated and if there is anything a guy can do to clean the nickel solution or do I need to start fresh with new crystals and nickel brightener? thanks for any help!
Hi Ben. Contamination is a possibility if something falls into the solution because it will also release lositively charged metal looking for a negatively charged part. Some forums say you can filter it through a fish tank carbon filter. Have you tried polishing the swirly one after? Does it shine?
i get nervous about the power source. Do you have a video about what is the best one to use? is any of this dangerous? between the electricity and the chemicals... just curious if there is info already out there about those steps and processes.
@@BradMeehan ok so not gonna get electrocuted lol. Also I found your post that showed how to get a power source and you cut the wires but then what? What and how do you connect the alligator clips to the wires. Again sorry for being a moron with electronics
@@BradMeehan translation : What a great show, nice video where you explain everything, congratulations and greetings from Tuscany, Italy. Don't have Google Instant Translate? you should have it, congratulations again
Is there a way I could FaceTime you or something along those lines? I just like to ask a couple questions since I'm going through a nickel plating journey myself on my Nike VR pro combos and I just want to make sure I'm doing all the steps right from preparation to the nickel plating finish
Brad love the stuff man. I have a set of 32's I'm looking to fix up, but not strip and rechrome. What compounds on what wheels would you recommend? Should/could I deburr any larger gashes out? Anything you can do to the faces? Also, whats the lifespan look like on this nickel treatment...they look awesome
Thank you. The chrome layer is so durable that you'll have a hard time getting anything larger than scuffs out with polishing. At best you'll have shiny bag chatter, if that makes sense. The deburring wheel will eventually make it's way through the chrome layer and into the nickel, so you'll have exposed nickel in spots and chrome in others. Knowing how Mizuno wear, you likely have exposed steel somewhere that would at least need a brushed layer of nickel to protect it from rust, or use a corrosion preventative spray on it regularly. If you do want to shine them up as-is, I'd go with the stitched denim wheel and a yellow compound. It's very soft and won't cut through your chrome. The jury is out on the longevity of just nickel plating the irons since I just figured it out and haven't finished the set. The good news is, if it wears I can just throw them in the tank again with a little prep first. The nickel solution continually replenishes itself so all you need to add over time is more Distilled water and maybe more brightener. Keep me posted on your decision and let me know how they turn out.
@@BradMeehan Completely makes sense, luckily most of the set is in good shape so I think a solid polish will get them looking great for the season and maybe some re-polishing and reapplication of hoppes #9 lubricant will help them last longer. Anything after the denim/yellow to finish it off or you think just the denim/yellow is all it needs? 9 iron I have has a big gash on it (bought another to game incase I can't fix it) that I may try and deburr to see if it can get 'buffed' out. but I wasn't planning on getting that back to perfect anyways. I don't think I'll nickel plate but what you just said has me curious now haha. So you can save the nickel solution and just add distilled water to use again? Theoretically meaning that you could just continually replate them? Also since you have me thinking now...what did the nickel plating do to the overall weight? Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions! Unbelievably helpful
I cannot believe it took me this long to come accross your channel bud. My gosh how much time you could have saved me if i only knew and watched you from the start a few years back
Thank you!
Best plating DIY video! Loved how you kept it simple, but highly informative. Keep up the great videos.
Thank you for watching
This is the channel I’ve been looking for.
Awesome. Thank you.
Same!!
Ditto and bravo!
Btw, hope things are going ok with your Mom.
Yessir
Agreed
So glad I found your channel! Thank you for doing everything on the cheap and your explanations are so much fun! I’m looking forward to watching many many many many more of your videos and hopefully trying out your techniques.
"for my homies" LMAO! between that and your framed photo of Eric Estrada on the mini fridge, I like your sense of humor
Framed and SIGNED photo of Eric Estrada! Thank you!
The coolest people in the comments
This really is a game changer. I haven't looked yet but I hope you put the clubs back together so we can see a finished product.
This video is what inspired me to have a go at nickel plating. I’ve literally just built the tank with aeration and a heater..I’m just waiting on my chemicals to have a go at this. Thank you 🙏🏼
Very cool. Hit me up with questions. I learned it all from RUclips videos and reading forums.
@@BradMeehan I’m having next to no success with it all. I’ve converted my white vinegar into nickel acetate, I have heat and circulation and two nickel plates on the positive and the bar across the top on the negative. I’ve set the voltage to 3 volts and tried at 4.5 and still nothing plates...my copper bubbles but just seems to barely get anything on it even after 45 minutes...what’s wrong??
@@brianhull5125 Is there chrome on the iron? Or you're still testing on a piece of copper?
@@BradMeehan I’ve tried with copper pipe and I’ve also tried with a stainless steel club head...I’ve even degreased and acid pickled the items too...I’m so confused
@@brianhull5125 any way to check the voltage across the anode to the bar? Hold positive lead on the anode, negative on the bar and see if you have 4 volts?
Well... I have to try this now.. i have these clubs. Im not s handy person at all but youve inspired me... Thank you. Your channel is brilliant
can't beat that with a stick.... good job..
Thank you
Your videos are so addicting!! I stumbled on them this morning working 12 hours. I have watched a few now and they aree interesting!! I think most golfers like good looking clean clubs!! I subbed your channel too!!
Thanks! I'm glad you found the channel. Happy to help and you work through your projects.
That's what's up those nickel plated clubs are some 🔥
I love watching your videos, I'm a actually starting my new job as a club fitter, so exciting!!!. Your videos are actually helping me learn alot about the craft.
I have so Mizuno MP14's, I got them cheap in a goodwill, some were not in great condition. I'm missing the 7 and 9 iron but their amazing to hit. The problem is the groves, they seem like they were grinded down with a dremel. Can this be be fixed with copper? Make a video on this, please! Thank you for the videos, keep them coming.
It turned incredable, thanks for sharing it!
This is really cool! I would love'd to try it for my drums hardware and lugs 🔥🔥🔥 thanks so much forthis awesome video tutorial!!!
@@ninsdenso2809 you're welcome. Check out my video in electroless plating. It's even easier.
ruclips.net/video/f487RuyG1AY/видео.html
I watch your beautiful video more than 5 times, and I enjoyed every time.
Great job, really great job from a wonderful man.
Thanks bro.
I wish you do it with chrome once time on another beautiful chromic thing.
I like it.
I searched lot and didn't find a Applicable video
But It was so simple and so professional also.
I've been looking for it a lot.
❤❤❤❤ Thanks man
Love u from Iran.
Hi Brad, thanks for the vids... I say vids instead of videos because I simply do not have the time to type the extra I O :).... I am wondering if it's possible to do a batch plating all at once? Grind, sand, polish, etc, to an 8 -10 club batch of irons, then put all of the heads in to the solution you made up in the video? Thank you.
Yes, but here's the catch: your anodes need to be about twice the surface area of the item you're plating, so you'd need a pretty hefty sized nickel anode to keep up with plating onto the club heads. I do more of an assembly line where I have one in the plating tank while I'm polishing the next so there's no time for the club heads to start corroding again.
This is great! Been wanting to try this out for a while
Ya thats probably the best set up i have seen yet cheers bro for posting i couldnt get nickel in large enough size guitar strings are nickel wound but went with nickel welding rods think they are 50% nickel so not as shiny but did the job and not rusting...
That's great. I'm glad you gave it a try.
What are you using for a power supply? Or did I miss something?
Fantastic,I have some old Ping Zings. I’ll give it a shot,lol
You may not have to plate those. You can probably just polish them to like-new condition
@@BradMeehan ok. I’m going to by a grinding wheel… I’ll polish first. I do want to try some plating though. You do beautiful work. Thanks Brad.
Nickel isn't too difficult and it can come out very pretty and good protection too. It's not chrome, but also... the advantage is that it's not chrome.
Rumour has it you can also add a layer of rhodium plating on top as another home option, but i haven't tried.
Gonna start doing this! I constantly bring home various clubs from garage sales and thrift stores.
Me too. It's a problem.
I added an equipment list to the description
@@BradMeehan you da man!
@@BradMeehan I bet your wife or significant other loves it as much as mine…
@@brfam1977 She does! I usually show her in person the progress I'm making but she still likes to watch the final video. She says they're really satisfying to watch - especially on the full restoration videos where i don't talk. Haha.
Thanks Brad, your videos are great! I'm learning so much and may incorporate this into my golf club hobby builds. Some of my family and friends have golf clubs they don't want to part with, but are looking quite beat up at this point!!
In regards to this video, can you not do more than one at a time or did you only do this one golf iron for the purpose of simplifying how to do this? Thanks.
I do one at a time so I can tackle it in an assembly line way - meaning, I can plate a club while i'm sanding/polishing the next. They start to corrode if the bare steel is left sitting. Also, the size of the anode needs to be about twice the surface area of the item that you're plating. These little anodes aren't big enough to handle more. If you have a bigger setup, you can do multiple. Also, I'm lazy and a mega-procrastinator.
Was drinking coffee when you said “for my homies” and I spat it out all over my couch in laughter, I will be sending you the dry cleaning bill !!, but thanks for the info! Save me money and gives me confidence to DIY this!
Your videos are always fantastic! Thank you
Thanks, I'm working on a new project now! Can't wait to share it with you.
Just found this channel I love this video I am going crazy buying old sets and this is perfect for me.
Quick question if I sent you clubs could you do a video and charge me instead of me screwing things up. This could be a lucrative business users sending clubs in to be refinished. I have a set of mp64's I would like done. I also have mp54's depending on if you do and price maybe I send you both sets. Either way love your channel and will watch all content you put out.
Perhaps a hook solution that goes into the hosel in order to not have the exterior of the heads touch the suspension? I was mildly concerned that the touching points might look slightly different from the rest of the head? Or get less build-up of nickel in those spots?
I completely agree. In hindsight, I would have made my tank a bit deeper so I could hang them from the hosel.
love this shi!!!!!!!! Definitely inspired myself!!! Would be curious to see some different finishes with golf shafts, a nickel plated golf shaft with matching head would be bada$$$
Love this video! Maybe I missed it, but what's the voltage of your power supply?
3.5 volts, 1 - 1.5 amps is what I do in my little tank
Awesome videos brother. I found it easy to understand & follow your instructions. However, i read your description & you stated you used "nickle strike" before you submerged the part in the Nickle Bright Solution. I don't recall seeing you demonstrate using that procedure. Do you think you could do a quick video on that? Once again, awesome videos & tutorials. Thank you & Go! Pack! Go!
excellent video! If you repeat the process several times, can several layers of plating adhere? At how much voltage did you supply the plating tub? How did you remove the plate from the golf clubs? regards Thank you very much for the video greetings from Monterrey Mexico!!
Check out this link:
ruclips.net/video/VRiefpq1iVs/видео.html
This is how I removed the old finish. You can replate it again buy you'll have to reactivate the nickel using a nickel activation solution (also sold by those guys) for it to bond.
I forgot to answer the voltage question: I started with 4.5 volts and 1 amp, but lowered it to 3.5 volts and .5 amp on the second club but let it plate longer.
Do you find that using an airstone with very fine fast moving bubbles work better or does an airstone that produces larger air bubbles work best? Also, do you put the airstone directly on the item you are plating or a distance from it so the solution is just circulating and moving?
I put it directly under it. I've only owned this one air stone, so I can't compare to something with larger bubbles.
Hello Brad can you go thru all the items needed and a more in-depth video on how to make n get the correct supplies to make one to diy my clubs. Thank you. These are awesome dyi videos
For sure. This is on my list. In the mean time, there is a link in the description to all of the equipment i use in the videos.
OMG AND YOURE A PACKERS FAN!!?IM A SUBSCRIBER!!
Go Packers!
This is awesome. I'm going to follow these steps and see if I can't restore some life into older clubs that I have laying around - specifically some old wedges. I saw a comment response earlier where you said that you stop at Nickel because Chrome plating isn't DIY friendly. What makes that the case? The amount of power required, cost, safety? Thanks!
Also, what do you do with your waste?
Great job on your video, by the way. Thank you!
What are you doing with all these clubs you refurbishing? Enjoying the content. I like the “how to”
Thanks for the lesson…about ready to plate some wood tools!
Cool. Let me know how it goes. Practice on something first and know that if you screw up, you can redo it.
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to make it. Can I send you some clubs? Lol
I'm still learning!
I wonder if this would work with plastic, like for model kits? Trying to find a good chrome that is durable for plastic is really tough ... or very expensive. Great video. Thanks...
Man, these videos are the shit. Thanks bro! Fixing up some T-Zoids... have a bench grinder coming... next build is the plating station!
Nice, Angelo. Send me some pics!
@@BradMeehan Hey Brad, I will do! I have a question for you - The T-Zoids have a pretty degraded chrome plating. I'm thinking about sanding it off by hand, or using a hydrochloric acid to pull it off the nickel underneath... Would that be how you'd go about it? I thought about trying reverse plating to remove the chrome, but it seems like quite a toxic and dangerous process, as it is actual chromium not brightened nickel, so was keen to avoid it...
@@Angelokwells Acid is the fastest.
Legal disclaimer: I would research the safest method for your application. I'm just a dude in my basement shining old golf crap. I got C's in school.
Ah, I see you're using the chrome remover. Do you have a video that covers removing chrome? Would be hell keen to see how the wizard is doing it!
@@BradMeehan I feel like that legal disclaimer should apply to both you and I... Haha. Cheers Brad!
Thank you from Iran. ❤
Hey , really like the video and I found it very informative. The only thing I can't find out is whether or not nickel plating in this small a size gives off harmful fumes or not. I can't find a straight answer any where on google
Hi Brad ! Great videos man, Love all of em. Was wondering how many times you could use the nickel plating solution before have to replace it ?
Indefinitely if you keep it clean. The nickel anodes continually feed the solution. The nickel that doesn't stick to the club remains in the liquid. That said, you will have to replace the nickel anodes as they are being eaten as you plate. Hope that makes sense.
@@BradMeehan Makes sense yeh. This might sound dumb but essentially, why would you wanna plate the club head ? couldn't you leave it as is after simply polishing ? Thanks a lot for the knowledge
Great stuff. Easy to understand.
It'd work great for skidmarks on the back of a 5 iron.
Why didn’t you insert copper wire into the shaft hole to hang it? Doesn’t that give a better overall finish? Great work btw!
My tank is too shallow to point the clubhead toe-down. It bottoms out and wouldn't plate the toe. Design flaw of my 1.0 version.
Do you need to use the wand and nickel activator before putting the clean clubhead into the bath? I see on here you didnt do that but on that beautiful vokey video you did brush the head woth nickel activator. Thanks brad!
best vid on youtube , cheers
Bro this is such amazing knowledge your sharing thank you. I sell golf clubs on eBay and this will allow me to give customers a better product and possibly make more money 🙏
Thank you. I'm glad it helped!
I was thinking of buying two identical clubs then just cleaning one, and fully restoring the other to see the difference in selling price on eBay. I'd bet 5X at least.
Does the piece that's being plated show any blemishes at the points where it rests on the copper hook? Do you move it around periodically? Great video, thanks
It could. I've adapted my tank to be taller so I can hang it from the hosel now. I bought a plastic flour container and it's a good size. Check out some of the newer videos to see what it looks like. The rest is the same setup.
The contact point will have a thinner layer so move it around
📍Decent setup tips! My only constructive criticism is “Once you submerge your part in the plating bath don’t TAKE IT OUT! You’ll find that on page 44 if you got the Caswell manual.😉
2nd is having a consistent temp of 135-140° for the Bright Nickel Solution while plating. [I didn’t notice a heater in the video or mention]
📍You did mention doing an “Electro-Clean” in your text, but didn’t mention the more important “Surface Activator” just before you drop the part in the Nickel Bath. It is very cheap way to be sure your part takes the Nickel!
Lee
Excellent. I've done some metal cleaning with electricity and accidentally put some copper onto cast iron. So I've plated before, but not properly. I'm also familiar with making power sources. Thanks for the tutorial. Question, is there any limit to how many clubheads we plate at once? Looks like 2 or 3 might hang in your tank, more if bigger. Any drawbacks to that?
The only limit is real estate in the tank and the size of your anodes. The rule of thumb is the anodes have to be twice the size of the surface area of the club. Then, you'll need to adjust your current to accout for the additional draw.
I'm still learning too, but this is what I've gathered at this point.
Also, I appreciate you taking the time to comment!
where did you buy the chrome plating kit from? Everything from Caswell?
Thanks. I was having a hard time sourcing the nickel locally. Didn’t even think of Amazon.
Check out Caswell Plating too.
Great videos! May I ask, does this plating hold up against regular play as well as the factory plating?
Awesome Video, I've been wanting to chrome plate some 1/64th scale die cast cars........can you please tell me what kind of power supply your using?
He has a link in the description. Looks like he was using a switching variable benchtop power supply.
That is a great job.How long will the little pump last.
Great video, totally new so forgive me… but is there any fumes that come off of the solution? Just wondering about any precautions to take when setting up to plate a club. Thanks!
No fumes. No smell at all, really. But ventilation is recommended. Also, use rubber gloves.
@@BradMeehan Thank you! Speedy reply… much appreciated!
This is great, extremely helpful. I have a set of mp 32's that I'm working with as well. Can you do multiple heads at the same time with this process or does it have to be 1 at a time?
You can, but you'd need larger anodes and a bigger tank. It plates better when the distance to your part isn't too close to the anode, so real estate in the tank is prime. This DIY stuff is st most going to handle two at a time.
Don’t just like , love it 😊👏
Thank you!
Amazing, thanks!👍🏻
Another great video which makes this look simple. Must try it. However, curious about the paint fill; the head seemed to emerge with perfect fill? Do you do the paint fill before dipping on the basis that the nicol won't attach to the paint? Would it not be better to plate the whole head and then paint fill?
You should clean it out but it won't bond to paint, chrome, or anything dirty.
Just lazy on my part and wanting to try it out. Acetone would remove the paint fill and would alleviate the risk of contaminating the nickel. Next video will be how to finish the face.
Great video. Could something similar be done to my Ping ISI nickel irons?
I don't think you'd have to plate them. You could likely get away with just the polishing steps.
Brad, as usual, id like to thank you for showing the rest of us how to do this.
The positively charged metal that you're using... What are they called so i can get them from Home Depot? Right now Ii don't know what they're called or what they are for that matter. I'm assuming that they're nickel plated metal in order to get the nickel to adhere to the negatively charged golf iron.
I live in Canada, so to be on the safe side as far as sourcing some of this stuff, what should i ask for or look for to get those metal plates? If you don't get them from Home Depot, let me know so hopefully we have the same chain of stores here in Canada as well. Thanks in advance for your help and guidance. You're such a great guy doung all these videos for us laymen!
I was wondering why you only do one at a time, but then I read a reply to one of my own comments and you explained why you only do one at a time. Once removed from the suspension, the metal starts to corrode quickly if left sitting for some time. That makes a lot of sense to do one at a time.
Thanks man, you're awesome!!
What kind of power supply do you need for doing your plating - VDC and Amps? I have a set of Maxfli TM-92 Australian Blades that I have been playing for 20 years and I love them but they have gotten little dings and dents all over them from clanking around in the bag over the years and I would like to restore them to like new again and am doing some research.
Can you describe your process before playing? Do you degrease then prep with a muriatic acid mix? And if I scuff the surface before with a scotch brite pad will this plating still give it a uniformly smooth look? Thanks for your content man!!
How far before plating? After it's been polished?
I use the acid for rust and some chrome removal before polishing.
Once it's polished, I use the electrocleaner to really get the piece clean from any oils from the polishing compound, I active any remaining nickel that may be on the club so it can accept new nickel, then into the tank for a few hours.
The club will take on the condition of the underlying metal, so if you see brush marks from the Scotch-Brite, you will see it in the plating. A heavy layer of copper first will help fill in the scuffs, but it's just easier to polish than go to that extra step. Polishing takes no effort. You're just standing there and letting the wheel do the work.
Keep the questions coming so I know you are successful at this.
Also, practice on a junk club.
Exciting videos!
I have a set of old titleist tour model from 81, they are fully playable as they are… But it would be really cool to have them in a mint condition.
Chroming seems as a no go as a DIY process!
How does the Nickel plating hold up for wear & tear?
Other then that I guess it is just to follow your videos with the mizuno clubs?
Great videos!!
The nickel is quite durable. And, once you understand the process, you can re-do the plating as it wears.
@@BradMeehan Only if you electrostrip the first plating first.
Homie I need this. I wanna roll up with my MP-37s looking like I just bought them last week.
Let's go! You can do this. This video was my first time trying anything like this. I'm a self-admitted moron, so if I can figure it out, you can do it with ease.
When plating nickel, the copper wire was not plated, was it okay?
You should see nickel on the copper of it's clean and connected correctly (and it's actually copper)
if i were to plate a round piece of steel 1.25" diameter and 25" long will this work or do i need more voltage/amps, i want plating to be as thick as i can get it. thanks and very good presentation
Check out my Electroless Nickel video. That may be a better option for this use case. But yes, you'd have to do a bit of math. There's a calculator on the Caswell site to help with power requirements for your parts. It takes into consideration the entire surface area to be plated.
@@BradMeehan thank you much
Hey Brad I’m guessing if you go through the polishing process without the electroplating the clubs will corrode? This step is required or they will rust after polishing?
Thanks so much for the video. so, i want to order the same kit as you got. please, tell me what to order. Juan
hello! a consultation... the sandblasting is done before or after the electroplating processes
I now do it before to avoid damaging the plating.
Great video. Well explained but you did not specify the type and power to feed the solution. I would like to try this process too. Thanks.
The details are in the description. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Brad.
brother this is fuc@&n awesome!!!! i just learn how to change my own grips, ow i want to learn all this!!! how do you properly dispose of the liquids after you don’t need them?
You keep them. The nickel solution will last indefinitely. If the water in the solution evaporates, you're left with the crystals you started with.
Don't even know where to begin with the compliments or questions, so many of both, awesome stuff. Anyway I recently found a set of Fila F-02's that i crushed on back in early 90's in really good shape except some of the finish has peeled a bit on three irons at the bottom of the faces and I wanted to to try electro plating but not sure where to start. Do you have to blast the clubs before plating? Also what would you do for a cavity back iron to keep the plating out. Anyway way thanks for taking the time, awesome
Wow nice work , from tweed heads Australia 👌
Superb work
Thank you!
Great video. How far will one mix go.? Like can you do several clubs in that one mix? How would you gauge when it's ready for replacement solution? Cheers!
It will last indefinitely of you keep it clean. You can add more distilled water to raise the level if it gets low. The inky thing you'll have to replace is the nickel anode because it gets eaten away as it sacrifices metal into the solution. I'll make a video about Tank Maintenance for you.
Good video sir thank you, how to electroplate nikle and copper coating on aluminium.
I haven't done it buy here is a link to more information
www.finishing.com/80/41.shtml
GREAT VIDEOS. Question. What is the power supply you are using in this video? Sorry if this has been asked before but I didnt see it .
Thank you. There's a link in the description to power supplies on Amazon of you can access it. I bought an inexpensive one that was maybe 50 dollars. It's a brand called TackLife, but the brand won't matter. I only chose it because of the price and had decent reviews, so you can pick any. You can also make your own with an old charger (if you're super cheap like me). I have a video on my channel on how to make one. But you'd be better off buying one.
Can you talk a bit about the durability of nickel vs chrome plating? Will nickel plating hold up to the extended rigors a golf club goes through, or is replacing necessary after a while? When should you use chrome and when nickel? Thanks.!!
Just finished my first plating: a Ben Hogan Special 56 that was in tough shape when I acquired it. I took out the nicks, dechromed, cleaned, prepped and plated, like I learned from you. It's not perfect, there are a few spots and less lustrous places, but overall it's a winner. Sandblasting the face is next then I'm gonna shaft it, grip it and play it. Thanks, man!
Oops, spoke too soon. The sandblasting didn't go well. Didn't mask it enough. Nickel is flaking off hosel now. Starting over. What causes spots, like water spots on a window?
I got the nike slingshot, I just don't know about taking the clup head off and being able to put it !ack on. Its on the steal shaft. For now I want to polish it first. And see how it turns out. Also should I give it texture with the sand blower? I really enjoy your channel! Thanks again!
I have a Nike Slingshot video. You won't have to do any of these steps beside polish it. Check it out : ruclips.net/video/6OeENu71SFk/видео.html
Word. Just put masking tape on the plastic ferrule on the shaft so you don't mess with it and you should be ok. That's the only thing you could damage. Sand with paper, then buff it you have a buffer (or make one like my tutorial). That should get you started and comfortable.
Is this how companies that refurbish clubs do it?
How does this hold up over time afterwards? Let’s say 1 golf season?
And if it’s not going to hold well then is there anything you can do to make it more durable?
Hi Brad. Can you put more than one club for nickel plating or must you do it one at a time?
@kevanpillay9701 it's limited by the size of the nickel anode. It must be 2x the surface area of the club. You're better doing an assembly line and polishing one while the other is plating
Do you take old chrome and nickel off first, if so how? How long do the annodes last? The green solution can be saved if you take out and do a copper bath correct? Amazing work Brad!
NO YOU CANNOT NICKEL PLATE OVER CHROME. Chrome has to be stripped OFF first.
Greetings Brad, love your channel and thanks for making the video. What material did you use for the positive electrodes? I am thinking about doing this to my Ping cat eye set which is just plane dull stainless. What type of pre treatment would they need? Just an acid dip before plating to remove oxidation? Also need to remove any paint. Thanks again
For stainless, you won't have to do any of these steps. You can just sand and polish them as-is. If you want to make them matte like their original finish, you can spray it with your sand blaster to dull it down after polishing (unless you want it shiny)
@@BradMeehan awesome friend, and what did you use for the positive electrodes in the bath?
So awesome!! Roughly, how long did you leave the iron heads in the solution?
Total, I'd say a 2 hours but I kept jacking with the voltages. The longer you leave it, the brighter and thicker it gets. I left the wedge in there for 4 hours on a lower voltage. "Slow and low" is the recommendation.
When you strip a club head by reversing this method, would you then be able to use the cathode as an anode to put the chrome back on after smoothing out the club head?
Sorry I missed this. I don't think you can re-chrome like that. Caswell sells chrome plating kits, but it's expensive (to me) and there are safety concerns.
Hello there i need ur help can u put what is the row material name u use
The material is called Nickel Anode. I hope that answers your question.
So after you Nickel Plate them you can sandblast the face paint fill them and game them or do you have to put any kind of a coating afterwards
Absolutely. You could spray them with a bit of clear coat to extend the life, but it will scratch off eventually.
Pre-plating A golf club head. Best process to remove any old plating? Or is that even necessary?
So, I did my first wedge with steps youve put in video. Got all my stuff from caswell. It turned out great. I then prepped and did a 2nd wedge, and it came out with a black/chrome spiral finish...found out that my cable that connected the annodes dropped into the nickel solution during the plating process (im guessing some plastic got melted off). I tested with another club and got some "icky" results. I'm wondering if the solution got contaminated and if there is anything a guy can do to clean the nickel solution or do I need to start fresh with new crystals and nickel brightener?
thanks for any help!
Hi Ben. Contamination is a possibility if something falls into the solution because it will also release lositively charged metal looking for a negatively charged part. Some forums say you can filter it through a fish tank carbon filter.
Have you tried polishing the swirly one after? Does it shine?
What power sourse are you using ? a battery charger or what ?
It's a DC power supply. Check out the link in the description to my equipment page and click "electroplating" to see it.
i get nervous about the power source. Do you have a video about what is the best one to use? is any of this dangerous? between the electricity and the chemicals... just curious if there is info already out there about those steps and processes.
@mcburdiegolf I can do a more detailed explanation. But, for reference, it's about the same voltage as two AA batteries.
@@BradMeehan ok so not gonna get electrocuted lol. Also I found your post that showed how to get a power source and you cut the wires but then what? What and how do you connect the alligator clips to the wires. Again sorry for being a moron with electronics
Che spettacolo bravo bel video dove spieghi tutto complimenti ti è saluti dalla Toscana, italy❤
Ciao! Ho abitato in Italia molte anni fa! Non parlo Italiano speso ma ho capito tutto. Grazie!
@@BradMeehan translation : What a great show, nice video where you explain everything, congratulations and greetings from Tuscany, Italy. Don't have Google Instant Translate? you should have it, congratulations again
This is awesome! What do you use as your power supply?
I bought one from Amazon. There's a link in the description. I just chose an inexpensive one with good reviews.
Is there a way I could FaceTime you or something along those lines? I just like to ask a couple questions since I'm going through a nickel plating journey myself on my Nike VR pro combos and I just want to make sure I'm doing all the steps right from preparation to the nickel plating finish
Brad love the stuff man. I have a set of 32's I'm looking to fix up, but not strip and rechrome. What compounds on what wheels would you recommend? Should/could I deburr any larger gashes out? Anything you can do to the faces? Also, whats the lifespan look like on this nickel treatment...they look awesome
Thank you.
The chrome layer is so durable that you'll have a hard time getting anything larger than scuffs out with polishing. At best you'll have shiny bag chatter, if that makes sense. The deburring wheel will eventually make it's way through the chrome layer and into the nickel, so you'll have exposed nickel in spots and chrome in others. Knowing how Mizuno wear, you likely have exposed steel somewhere that would at least need a brushed layer of nickel to protect it from rust, or use a corrosion preventative spray on it regularly.
If you do want to shine them up as-is, I'd go with the stitched denim wheel and a yellow compound. It's very soft and won't cut through your chrome.
The jury is out on the longevity of just nickel plating the irons since I just figured it out and haven't finished the set. The good news is, if it wears I can just throw them in the tank again with a little prep first. The nickel solution continually replenishes itself so all you need to add over time is more Distilled water and maybe more brightener.
Keep me posted on your decision and let me know how they turn out.
@@BradMeehan Completely makes sense, luckily most of the set is in good shape so I think a solid polish will get them looking great for the season and maybe some re-polishing and reapplication of hoppes #9 lubricant will help them last longer. Anything after the denim/yellow to finish it off or you think just the denim/yellow is all it needs?
9 iron I have has a big gash on it (bought another to game incase I can't fix it) that I may try and deburr to see if it can get 'buffed' out. but I wasn't planning on getting that back to perfect anyways.
I don't think I'll nickel plate but what you just said has me curious now haha. So you can save the nickel solution and just add distilled water to use again? Theoretically meaning that you could just continually replate them? Also since you have me thinking now...what did the nickel plating do to the overall weight?
Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions! Unbelievably helpful
@@BradMeehan how is the longevity looking like with the nickel plating? any update?