You ask for tips, so here goes. 1: I notice you use ME non-weathered rail. Using the weathered rail saves a lot of time as the only painting necessary is a little touch-up around the turnouts. 2: Solder the feeder wires to the bottom of the rail before spiking it down. It's neater, not to mention easier. If using weathered rail, it's a simple matter to clean off a small section of the underside with a needle file. 3: When using 3-point gauges on a curve, don't put them one each way like you do with straight track. The two-prong end must go on the outside of the curve. 4: For straight track, I find it works best to lay one rail in place with only the ends attached, then lay a metal straight-edge against it (spike the back of the straight-edge in place so it doesn't move), insert all the spikes on one side of the rail, then remove the straight-edge and spike the other side.
Hi Ron. Just found the videos on the Garden State Division web site. Nice work. Suggestions. 1. File the ends of cut rails in the following ways: the bottom as you showed, square the ends you showed , plus bevel the tops if the base flanges each side of the web and taper each side of the flange. The rail join ers will slip on easier without spreading and hold better. Has your NMRA gauge to check your track. One side of the gauge has a center probe that you can use to check the centering of your rails against your pencil centerline.
Damn! I just noticed I put the section talking about organizing my tools on a board twice in the video. I must of been getting tired when I edited the video. Oh well. Better next time.
hey Ron... that was a great "how to" vid... i like the rail joiner tool that will help me when i install my "N" scale code 55 joiners.... here's a tip i learned a while back...if you take a small pocket screw driver & groove the end with a dermal to fit over the rail. then you can use this tool to push on your joiners. easier & faster than using the needle nose... thanks for sharing vinny
Ron Klaiss hey Ron... i am uploading a vid right now that gives a basic "how to" on the tool that i mentioned to you.. there is no particular shape as long as it JUST goes over the head rail.... hope this is useful to you as your joined spreader is to me vinny
I enjoyed the video very informative. I am going to start a layout and trying to decide to hand lay track or use pre made. I noticed that when you join sections of track you leave a slight gap, I am assuming that this is for expansion and contraction. But I was surprised that the joints were exactly across from each other, should the joints have more space between them? You have a lot of patience to do an entire layout with hand laid track. I have to give this more thought. Because of the cost might only build turnouts by hand. I will look at more articles and more videos. Thank you for yours. Ralph
WOW! That is some nice looking track. I seriously doubt that I have the patience to hand lay track. I'll stick to other details in the model train world...
ryan hills The biggest thing isn't advantage,it's doing it yourself and knowing it is done right. But as you hand lay track you should hand lay your switches as well,and that makes a huge difference in performance through your turnouts. I just thought of the fact you know your track is always in gauge. Hope thid helps
Hey Ron, you make a comment that you like hand laid track for narrow gauge. Do you use factory track for your standard or just take more care with your ties?
Ron Klaiss Wow, a lot of work. Looks great, keep up the good work. You have inspired me to pitch to my father about going with hand laid ties for our H.O scale layout.
Thanks for solving the problem of spreading open those ME rail joiners. ME's idea is to use a #11 xacto blade to open them up, so You might want to drop them an email with that tip vid attached, patent pending of course.
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Doing reruns Ron, very much love the way you show your track build method in this video. Very clear and concise!
You ask for tips, so here goes.
1: I notice you use ME non-weathered rail. Using the weathered rail saves a lot of time as the only painting necessary is a little touch-up around the turnouts.
2: Solder the feeder wires to the bottom of the rail before spiking it down. It's neater, not to mention easier. If using weathered rail, it's a simple matter to clean off a small section of the underside with a needle file.
3: When using 3-point gauges on a curve, don't put them one each way like you do with straight track. The two-prong end must go on the outside of the curve.
4: For straight track, I find it works best to lay one rail in place with only the ends attached, then lay a metal straight-edge against it (spike the back of the straight-edge in place so it doesn't move), insert all the spikes on one side of the rail, then remove the straight-edge and spike the other side.
Great tips. I'm always up for improving. Thanks.
Great instructional vid. Exactly what I was looking for, with just the right amount of basic stepwise info & additional tips. Thanks!
C Frssll I’m glad it helped you. It’s totally the reason I made it. 👍🏼
Hi Ron. Just found the videos on the Garden State Division web site. Nice work. Suggestions. 1. File the ends of cut rails in the following ways: the bottom as you showed, square the ends you showed , plus bevel the tops if the base flanges each side of the web and taper each side of the flange. The rail join ers will slip on easier without spreading and hold better. Has your NMRA gauge to check your track. One side of the gauge has a center probe that you can use to check the centering of your rails against your pencil centerline.
I'm cracking up at the last 45 seconds!! Great video man! I've been wondering how this is done, you've explained it perfectly!
Now that is real modelling very impressed with that track work well done indeed!
Damn! I just noticed I put the section talking about organizing my tools on a board twice in the video. I must of been getting tired when I edited the video. Oh well. Better next time.
Nice, thanks for getting this done Ron! Much appreciated!
Thank you for the video Ron, your a great teacher, I must confess to falling asleep once but that's cause I am a fireman and need my naps.;-)
Hallo Ron. I love the way you work and explanation.
Enjoyed watching your videos, Ron. Great lay-out. All the best.
hey Ron... that was a great "how to" vid... i like the rail joiner tool that will help me when i install my "N" scale code 55 joiners.... here's a tip i learned a while back...if you take a small pocket screw driver & groove the end with a dermal to fit over the rail. then you can use this tool to push on your joiners. easier & faster than using the needle nose...
thanks for sharing
vinny
What shape do I grove the screwdriver? That sound interesting.
Ron Klaiss hey Ron... i am uploading a vid right now that gives a basic "how to" on the tool that i mentioned to you.. there is no particular shape as long as it JUST goes over the head rail.... hope this is useful to you as your joined spreader is to me
vinny
Glad your back!
Another nice video, thanks for all the nice time saving tips.
Another good vid Ron! I only nodded off once! Looking forward to your " How Paint Dries " video series!
I enjoyed the video very informative. I am going to start a layout and trying to decide to hand lay track or use pre made. I noticed that when you join sections of track you leave a slight gap, I am assuming that this is for expansion and contraction. But I was surprised that the joints were exactly across from each other, should the joints have more space between them? You have a lot of patience to do an entire layout with hand laid track. I have to give this more thought. Because of the cost might only build turnouts by hand. I will look at more articles and more videos. Thank you for yours. Ralph
My next layout I'm going to build all of my turnouts, but use commercial flex track.
WOW! That is some nice looking track. I seriously doubt that I have the patience to hand lay track. I'll stick to other details in the model train world...
Chad Portenga thanks. It's my first attempt at hand laying track. Not as bad as I thought.
What are the advantages of hand laying track as to buying track? I'm looking into hand laying track.
ryan hills
The biggest thing isn't advantage,it's doing it yourself and knowing it is done right. But as you hand lay track you should hand lay your switches as well,and that makes a huge difference in performance through your turnouts. I just thought of the fact you know your track is always in gauge. Hope thid helps
How do you keep the pair of rails centered on the ties? Do you just eyeball it?
Looks good Ron.
Mike
Hey Ron, you make a comment that you like hand laid track for narrow gauge. Do you use factory track for your standard or just take more care with your ties?
All of my visible track is hand laid. If it is hidden track I use Micro Engineering code 70 flex, but still hand laid turnouts.
Ron Klaiss Wow, a lot of work. Looks great, keep up the good work. You have inspired me to pitch to my father about going with hand laid ties for our H.O scale layout.
Fill that gap with a tiny drop of solder?
Thanks for solving the problem of spreading open those ME rail joiners. ME's idea is to use a #11 xacto blade to open them up, so You might want to drop them an email with that tip vid attached, patent pending of course.
Thanks Ron
Not sure, but it looks like your not leaving enough expansion room at each joint, expands .015 per 3 feet
The rails have been fine so far. 6 years and counting. My basement temperature is pretty consistent.