Inside a uCharger Hi-speed charging adaptor, and making your own.
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- Опубликовано: 16 июн 2016
- It's debatable if these things are a good idea, since they basically trick your phone or tablet into thinking it's plugged into a dedicated charger instead of your computer. That can result in your device trying to draw a lot more current than the computer's USB port is designed to supply. A bit like wrapping tin foil round a fuse! There is the possibility that you could damage your computers 5V USB bus by overloading it.
You can also make your own simple USB protocol defeater by getting a standard USB lead, cutting the data lines and shorting them together at the end with the charging device to make it think it's plugged into a charger. But again, it's not recommended.
If you have a large screen phone and are having issues with battery life then a better option is to carry a proper charger or power bank.
An easy way to reduce your devices power consumption for longer run time is usually to turn screen brightness down. That will also extend the operational life of the screen's backlight.
I don't actually recommend that you use a device like this. The bottom line is that it can potentially damage your computer/laptop by overloading its USB ports.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and dodgy USB devices at / bigclive 
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Oh the tinfoil around the fuse! I used to use the foil off a ciggarette pack back when I inhaled Kools as fast as I could light them. I had a cousin who didn't smoke, one night we were partying, in his old 63 Impala, when the fuse on his radio burned out I was too out of it to think of the cigarette pack, and he looked on the floor. First he came up with a screw, but the head was to big, and we really wanted to keep listening to KOMA rock and roll, well he finally found a .22LR shell, and put that in. The radio came back on, and I went back to exciting my date in the back seat, as he was working on his date in the front. It was the song "They're coming to take me away, ha ha" playing, I can remember it as well as if it happened yesterday, when BOMB, the shell went off, pieces of the brass cartridge went here and there, in fact his date, a pretty young farm girl from Bison SD caught a piece in her arm and bled a little, man did that put an end to the excitation, the date, and his radio, all at once. Yes fuses are there for a reason, but when I think back on that night, I still have to chuckle.
what a story man
You sound like the kind of person who's been there and done things.
Nice urban legend there m8. Been shown on Mythbusters.
There you are:
scontent.fath1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/10516804_986856058009654_1915341550669500119_n.jpg?oh=29fd20c18d56c34bb74eb93bf805bb66&oe=57D04D4E
+TheZombini It's true alright.
I'm really glad that my laptop has good protection on the USB ports. I hooked up a step-up converter, and sometimes a load draws just a bit too much current. Not only does the computer deactivate the USB port, it gives me a little notification that a power surge was detected.
Maybe on your computer it doesn't, but I've literally seen the message "Power surge detected on USB port" appear on my computer when that happens.
Chris McRoy it also has appeared on me when I short circuited my laptop. The USB port turned off and I had to restart it.
@@LazerLord10 What laptop are you talking about exactly?
@@umxrr8677 Thinkpad T470. Although I did similar things with my older Lenovo Y500.
Most PCs do
Thanks a million. I made a small boombox/charger for my phone and it was barely charging despite the PSU that I was using being 5A rated. Did not know that you had to short the data cables for the phone to properly charge. I even ordered another PSU (used the old one for another project). Your video just saved me a lot of head scratching :)
Those things are great for older powerbanks or car adapters which are often optimised for Apple devices with their resistor network or have open data pins. If you plug an Android phone into them, it'll go into USB powered mode and charge very slowly. With the help of such adapter, you can make the phone charge fast.
Thanks for posting this!! The lack of higher than 500mA current draw of my tablet (8000mAh behemoth, can't charge it overnight at 500mA) from my own 5V 5A supply has been driving me nuts for so long. I'll take out the USB port network off of it and short its data pins. Thanks for teaching me this nibble of USB knowledge ♥️
I was hoping you would get a chance to do this, Clive. Very interesting and thank you for the video as always
i like how they go to the trouble of programming a microcontroller and everything when a simple switch would do the same.
1wsx10 Switches are sooooooo 2016!
Yeah I've always felt that those were a bad idea. I've repaired several motherboards where people have used them. Personally I use an old AT power supply that I've hooked a few scavenged USB jacks directly to the 5v rail and shorted the data pins as you discussed here. I can currently charge up to 10 devices at nearly 1.2 amps. There are a few tablets out there from Asus that draw that much.
no usb connector can handle 2.1A thought some devices require that lol
Glad to see the H1 is still going strong. I brought mine after you made your video on the Cubot H1.
I charge mine the similar way to you (overnight and used as an alarm clock) but every two to three days.
As for the charging, I may short out the data pins on my Solar USB charger and see if it drags too much current out of the capacitor bank and drop the voltage too far
oh fantastic, I was waiting for someone to comment on these. cheers Clive mate
nice video clive thank you. I have had the cubot h1 since last year and its a fine phone for the money @£90. Its my first proper smart phone and i cant imagine a reason to get anything better, thanks for the heads up on it in your video a while ago... keep up the great work, we all wait with anticipation for your next song :-) x
You should look into Qualcomm Quick Charge chargers. Qualcomm doesnt make them directly but manufacturers like samsung licenses the technology to create their 15w "Adaptive fast charge". It can give out maximum 2A at 5v but when connected with a compatible phone which also have the same tech, the voltage is raised to 9v at 1.66A thus 15w. These things charge my Galaxy S4 pretty damn fast and gets pretty hot too (sometimes a bit too hot). You should really look into these chargers as i'm curious how these things know when they are connected to compatible devices or how it steps up the voltage.
3 Years later... My wife's new OnePlus 8 Pro can be charged at 45 W over USB-C. My Samsung has like 30 W IIRC, but higher through USB-C than via Qi wireless.
"Let the magic smoke out ..." Hilarious -- thanks , Big Clive, for some of the best vids on YT.
In my former company (quality conrol department) we sold USB fans with USB 3 Ports. And there was a warning that you should not plug this into a USB 2 Port. Reason for that is, that the fan draw around 850mA (max with blocked fan), so it was to much for a USB 2 Port. Someone plugged it into a USB 2 Port of his laptop and guess who's USB port is dead....
Sure the Phones have some electronics inside and will stop when the voltage drop is to high, but I defenetly wouldn't recommend using those adapters. Chances are defenetly there to damage the USB controller or shit... Not a good thing to happen. Especially not on a Laptop. Bad Idea.
After working at Radioshack for a number of years, one of the harder concepts to explain to people was device charging. higher amp output chargers generally charged faster. Thicker charging cables were generally better. Larger capacity mobile chargers were always better. The hard part was explaining that the devices could only take up to a certain amount. Oh, and that convincing them that the gas station and Internet cheapo cables/adapters weren't exactly the best things...
"oh, I go through cables every few weeks" "is that so? where do you buy them?" "online or at the gas station" "well...these will last longer, and you can get an extra warranty so you won't have to buy a whole new one. Plus you can get a warranty on the replacement" "nah, I don't want to spend that much" Bad news, lady, you're already spending that much and more! Oh well, math was never the average person's strong suit...
I do miss it, though. I could rely on our products more than most competitor's store brands, and even many "name brands". I can't just go out and pay a reasonable amount for a quality cable anymore. It's almost as if quality doesn't enter into the equation anymore.
I have an Anker USB 3 A-C cable that I've had for probably about a decade now and was handed down to me by my mom.
it pays to get a good cable. that cable was like $20 at the time but it's probably the best USB cable you can buy.
Very Interesting Video Clive. It's a shame we didn't get to see the Magic Blue Smoke come out on Video tho. Keep up the great work. Nick.
I have a USB power bank with the data pins shorted and it charges my iPhone well but when I plugged my iPad into it, it ruined something because it said "this accessory may not be supported" but it now says that with every possible 5v source, iPad charger, iPhone charger, computer USB port, power bank. Nothing works because the iPad says "this accessory may not be supported". Any ideas?
I wouldn't have though it could damage the iPad. Have you tried a hard reset on the iPad?
Love your videos, educational and very interesting ;)
Glad you confirmed what I thought about these devices.
You are right, the polariy is aways changing from pin to pin, regardless of data or power pin. Pin 1 is +VBUS. That and that the data pins are the 2 inner pins is all you need to remember. So 1=Vbus // 2=D- // 3=D+ // 4=GND
Amazing. Nice to know. Great Video !
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you. Extremely valuable information.
Those unknown chips are obviously a Java Database interface, a microfahrad capacitor and a dedicated RUclips chip :-)
*microfart
if java database, then memory leak, else explode if BigClive = True.
A lot of USB ports have low value SMD resistors in series for protection. It's quite easy to blow them and knacker the ports.
Clive, I'm impressed that the phone even wanted to draw 1A from that setup with those very flimsy cables, and the multimeter in series. That must've given you a considerate voltage drop?
The Galaxy phones from Samsung seems to be very picky with their voltage, so you have to have a beefy USB cable, and good connections to even charge the damn thing.
that video was very useful. Thank you.
i love watching these videos because it shows me what producs are gonna kill me :)
I wanted to this video as soon as I saw unboxed therapy. Thanks Clive.
Several years ago I bought the port-a-pow red cable. It does the same. A friend uses it because his car radio usb port is rated at 2A but devices charge slowly with normal cable.
very good and great information.
I built a 'fast charger' for a friend that wanted his computer to charge things but no extra plugs. I bought one of those "mount in the drive bay" usb faceplates, wired it like that/used some slightly heavier gauge wires just because of the current even though it was short, ran power through some buck converters (I had a bunch of them layiing around from a project and will never use them all) to the greater than half a kilowatt power supply's 12v rail, bringing it down to a hearty 5v+max spec deviation. Overcurrent and burned out my usb tester (3A max) on one of his devices (which charged fine once the crispy tester was removed).
Didn't try any fancy signalling, he didn't have an iDevice.
My motorola-lenovo chargers deliver 15, 18, or 24 volts depending on the charger
It got a taste of its own medicine when Big Clive drew more current than it could handle!
Love the smell of magic Smoke in the morning!
Multiple standards: Yes, I got a battery bank that has several USB outlets; one is for Apple and one is for the later standardized version.
I got a gizmo from "zyx" or something like that, that is based on a microcontroller and has a OLED screen that shows stats and graphs. It will emulate the proprietary charger that the device is meant for. I don't know how it knows, but it shows on the readout: Apple, Samsung, whatever, with various letters and numbers indicating the variation.
As for charging from a PC: there are dedicated USB A ports that are meant for charging, recognizable by their strange color. They can provide power even when the PC is off, and can provide more power then the normal 500mA. Using that gizmo with the special socket or a powered hub that provides more power but doesn't tell the device that it can draw more power, might be OK.
The cycle repeats, with USB C connectors and power distribution standards. Plugging the wrong things together can actually damage the devices! Apparently the power can give higher voltages and some providers are too dumb to actually do the negotiation and some devices can't refuse what they can't actually handle. There's a warning on my external display / dock about 12V.
This stuff is amazing though. I have an old iphone 4s, last winter it stopped working and went into a reboot loop. Took me weeks to discover the real problem and in the mean time I reactivated an old android phone, which quickly reminded me why I upgraded. At any rate the problem with the iPhone was a bad battery, so I purchased a supposedly "OEM" battery and replaced the China special I had installed last fall. It has been a bad deal ever since, and I am guessing the OEM was Old china Export Merchandice. It seems to take a charge very fast, but loose it nearly as fast, especailly if I enable bluetooth and wifi. Yesterday it went dead on the road, so I plugged it into my vehicle with a nice 12-5 volt charger. I forgot about it, and after a hundred miles or so, I looked down and then recalled why my phone was on the floor of our RV. When I picked her up she was hot as a 2 dollar pistol, I quickly unplugged her and let her cool down. She is still at 62 percent charge now, some 24 hours later with wifi being enabled all that time. I am guessing it is my cheap Chinese "OEM" wall wart that is the culprit in my current charging problems.
Thanks for the fascinating videos Clive, I'm a big fan - except for the LiPo anti-climax.
On the subject of fast charging... I recently bought a Tronsmart 5-port charger that supports "VoltiQ" - I think this uses Qualcom's Quick Charge technology. Reading beyond the pseudo-science guff on their web site, that doesn't explain HOW it works, it seems that this allows a device to negotiate an increased charge voltage with the charger, up to 20V. With a higher voltage, the charger can obviously deliver more power (P = VI) for the same current; the maximum current being limited by cable and port-connection thickness. This allows quicker charging by quicker delivery of the required energy: Energy = Power x time. I presume the device being charged converts the higher voltage down to a lower voltage suitable to charge the battery but with a higher current than can be safely conducted over the USB cable/connectors. This is all conjecture based on 'reading between the lines' so if anyone knows better, or more on this subject, please comment. I'd be very interested if you could ever do an analysis/teardown of this Quick Charge functionality in action.
I've not had a look at these yet, but have the same thoughts as you, with specific communication between the devices to enable the higher voltage and then an inbuilt converter to allow the use of the full power to charge the cell. Some of these devices are getting a bit scary now. I can see a lot more charger/device fires in the future, especially when voltage switching is controlled by software.
Interesting! I don't know that before your video....
All the mainboards I used since my ASRock K7S8X had this little white SMD fuses for each USB 2.0 port. 2A if I am right. But the most of it had OCP functions too.
Today the most mainboards allow 1A on USB 2.0. I think the biggest problem on a desk computer would be the frontside ports. The used cables are often to small for more than 1A over a long time.
For notebooks and tablets the limits are often lower. Because they hav no big 5V PSU. The generate the 5V from the battery Voltage or from the external supply (typ. 16-20V).
I think the best way to charge tablets or phones with big batterys is, to use the external supply the came with. The function to load on a computer is more nice to have, than usefull.
My computer case has a cheap safeguard for too much current draw- it uses a SATA power cable to supply more 5V current when there is too much current draw
I have found that the cable that comes with an Anker wireless charger I bought seems to have this built in, as it doesn't enumerate with the computer and seems to charge quicker. Also, I typically try to plug in to USB 3 ports because they deliver 0.9A rather that .55A or whatever.
Great video, Im going to check my cheap chinese powerbank if it has the data pins shorted, because I suspect it doesnt. It also charges my phone very weirdly.
Ahh thank you sir for the information
I made just such a modified USB cable. Worked quite well on a dedicated charger, but when I accidentally plugged it into a computer USB 2.0 port, it did not. The USB port is now dead, though the rest of the computer works without apparent issue. On a side note, came to the Isle for the TT. Excellent experience, particularly for my first trip to Europe.
You got a great year for it. The weather is rarely so spectacularly good for the whole run.
You can't short or bridge any of the data wiring as the computer would see it. If you are doing this, only short or otherwise bridge pins on the device side, leaving the data lines open at the computer end.
Also remember that some cheap boards have current limiting fuses soldered that will need to be replaced if abused. These fuses are also present on the data lines to protect against the controller accidental voltage. This, unfortunately, includes just about any computer you buy in the store. HP, ASUS are notable users of this scheme.
So actually there are about 6 common charging schemes found for charging through USB at 5V. Shorting the data pins is only one of them, thus a lot of devices wont fast charge off of that (or not as fast as they can). As you note, others require a variety of specific voltages at the data pins.
If you wanted to make one of these, it would be best to use a chip like the TI TPS2514 which will detect which scheme the device is looking for, then supply the data pins accordingly to allow the device to charge at the highest current it can handle. It is ridiculously simple to implement, it just needs connected to the 5V supply and the data pins, and is normally fine without any external components at all, though a decoupling capacitor on the supply is advisable. It can also do 2 ports at once.
This helps for standard car chargers. Most are wired for Apple standard, so some Android/Samsung phones won't charge on high speed without this or a custom charge cable.
nyetloki A lot of these can't sustain 5V at 2A either, which is rather unfortunate :/
I think my computer has USB overload protection, but I know there's no overload protection on the ps/2 ports, because one day my mouse stopped working and then I noticed the cable getting quite hot! I found a short in the cable right inside where it goes into the mouse.
Well, likely the traces on the motherboard were getting even more toasty. :P
PS/2 isn't designed for hotplugging because it has little protection, thus no overcurrent either.
Quite surprising there wasn't a SMD fuse or polyfuse on the motherboard to burn out / trip though. XD
Thanks for your video. I was hoping you would make one about this subject. I tried shorting the data pins out but that only increased the current a bit. I was never able to get as high current as you (500 ma). Perhaps the phone doesn't like my 12v to DC step down module to USB way of supplying 5v
I've got 2.06V and 2.76V on the correct data pins but my ipad will only draw 140mA from it. the power supply is a 2A boost converter from ebay being powered from fully charged 18650 cells.
Those adapters are to mix and match phones and wall chargers, not for use on computers. They allow Samsung devices on Apple chargers and vice-versa. The charger has to hold up on the requested current for the cheat to work.
It's better carrying the appropriate charger than use those cheat devices and risk smoke somewhere.
Those adapters are to mix and match funds, into and out of wallets ;)
Clive, my Note 4's fast charger has I think a 9v output also, along with 5v, depending on the setting in the phone itself. How exactly does that work?
That usually requires actual communication between the devices to enable the higher voltage. It's so that a higher power can be passed through the USB cable at the same current range.
9V is the fast charging standard, my HTC changer used to bomb out with Samsung phones 'requesting' this. I think it just looks for a specific resistance on one of the data lines.
My asus tablet did that; charged happily from usb5v but if it detected the correct charger it would bump to 15v and 2 or 3 amps... Just a handshake - not sure if resistor network or real packet data.
I've just got an s7 edge and noticed it charges at 9v's and charges stupidly quick. it does make me wonder how the 9v will affect the battery life though
It converts the 9V back down to a suitable voltage at higher current in the phone or tablet.
When looking up datasheets for smd components using the package in the Google search, results in the best...results.
If you want to build your own, and don't mind spending an additional pound or two, there's a chip called the TI TPS2511. It, plus a resistor and two capacitors, will automatically detect which USB charger the device is looking for and pretend to be it.
I can drow much more than 2 A from my (over)powered hub. Short circuts are dangerous. It just smokes the shorted cable.
Will you review and do a teardown of one of those Anker PowerCore 10,000 units?
One place I visit has big warnings that connecting a phone to the USB port may well overload the PSU and crash the computer. The days of big 5v busses are over the high current busses with something to spare are 3.5v now.
WTF! You know the RUclips channel, Unbox Therapy! My LUCK this year. MAN!
On some motherboards, they have various power delivery modes, for example, on my gigabyte motherboard, It offers a ipad charge mode which will deliver around 2 amps on the port, and stay very close to 5V, but if it doesn't detect that, it tops out at 500mA, and if more current is pulled, the voltage drops to around 4.7V.
I just wish I could get that mode to activate when charging my android devices.
I've been using a (free) Asus Ai charger program (Windows) for years without issue. It appears to do the same as this USB dongle in your video but is a software solution instead. A regualr ipad will not normally charge from a regular PC USB port with the display on (says "Not Charging") and will take forever to charge with the ipad in sleep mode. The Asus program solves the issue and the ipad charges at the same rate as the 10W AC charger and still allows data transfer. I ended up buying one of those USB power meters ages ago to confirm the higher current draw.
The software seem to work on all the desktop PC's I've tried as well as my Dell and Toshiba laptops. Not sure is it works for Android devices connected to a PC. If it does, it sort of makes this USB dongle somewhat redundant considering the software is freeware.
Have not cooked the USB ports on my PCs or laptops yet after all this time though I've never tried two devices at once for this reason. I suspect two or more devices make start letting the smoke out.
I've ended up destroying quite a few USB ports on laptops over the years. Most recently an Acer laptop, 2 out of 3 ports are now broken. I believe they have a one-shot fuse or similar in them to protect the PSU and motherboard but if you cause a short or over-current it pops and gives up. I should pull it apart and find out what went as the two ports I suspect are on the same daughter board of my laptop so probably protected by the same circuit.
you can actually force a phone on AC if ur rooted and the kernel supports it, phone charged so much faster when I enabled that, went from 0.43A (it's this value on many androids) to 1.00A pretty neat
10 out of 10 video Clive. Thank you for the good info! All those codes you couldn't find? I found them to the CRAP Electronics catalog out of Shanghai. They are interested the 'burn up your shit' section.
I rewired all my USBs on my case of my PC to draw power directly off the 5V of my PSU (And, yes, there is protection inbetween, some diodes and shite to keep it from sending back volts into my psu or drawing more than 2.45A)
I have a feeling the JBDB30 chip is what disables the data lines. If I remember correctly.
quality motherboards like the gigabyte GA-970A-D3P can support up to 3a per usb 2.0 port and powered hubs can usually support up to 500ma+(adaptercurrent) total draw over all ports like the amazon 7 port usb2.0 hub that I have 500ma+4a or in the case of my motherboard 3a+4a
Going easy on charge current is better for the battery's long-term health anyway. More often than not, charging is when it sees the highest currents and gets heated up fairly well. (Avoiding deep discharges should have an even bigger effect.)
thanks Clive ...was looking forward to see your synopsis on this little.. voltage sucker
Probably good for USB 3.0/3.1/Type-C ports since they can handle the current pull.
Ah that explains why the RGB LED strip I got from eBay manages to draw 1A from my PC USB ports, obviously I use a proper power supply for it these days as that is way too much for a PC and it causes the voltage to drop
MSI USB ports can supply 1200mA but to get that you need to download the software for it.
I never plan ahead with my phone. I've left my house at 6:30 am to go to work with my phone at 3%. Plug it into my car center console, which I've wired to always be on regardless of the key or lock status, then leave it in there till my first break roughly three hours into my shift. Come back out, and it's nice and full. Have a car battery rated roughly 5 times the CCAs my car needs to start, so it'll never die. I could charge stuff all day long and it'd still start the car. Port is in the center console under the armrest so away from direct lithium-exciting sunlight and prying eyes.
I suppose all that does count as planning ahead. That port has come in incredibly handy though. From charging stuff hidden away while I'm not in the car to powering my little air compressor without the engine running (while laughing at the plebs who sit at gas station air pumps and spend quarters to fill tires), it's been super useful. I also have a super long lead I plug in while camping to have 12V in the tent.
ace video , I find when i plug the tablet into the charger it draws low current but if I remove the usb plug then swiftly replug it in it will draw more current. I use USB current metre to show this,approx 3 times more current,1.38amps
Oddly, this unit also pulsed the load once before turning it on. I wonder if it was for the same effect.
This would be good to implement fast charging on a dumb 5V 3A power supply though. Also I'm not sure how good of a idea the shorting out is, I read that best practice for that hack is a 200Ω resistor. It worked fine for me. I used to use a little step down DC-DC converter on a rather large battery pack before powerbanks where a thing. And I wondered why some devices would charge so slow despite the rather generous current range the converter could handle. I recently upgraded my old tech with the 200Ω resistor hack. It's giving the usb power bricks I made before usb power bricks where a thing a new lease of life.
can you do a video explaining how/why it is that ipads and iphones will refuce to charge using si=ome third party cables (particularly cheap dollar store ones) it seems like ti could be a similar pheomenon
You can buy molex to USB adaptor on ebay for dirt cheap and not worry about damaging the motherboard
On some USB devices the charging current drops if the voltage drops. One reason not to use a cheap usb cable. Most USB ports have resettable poly fuses on them. Still not good however.
I a while ago had a bit of an incident. I had a USB DVD drive and accidentally plugged a 12v barrel jack into the drive and it pushed 12v down the USB into the computer. Let's just say USB rfid reader was fried but no other damage thanks to motherboard protection
btw for anyone with an Android, some brands don't have very good protection for over charging so you shouldn't leave them charging over night because they can over charge and then wont turn back on.
This happened to my wifes Samsung galaxy and while searching for a solution i saw a bunch of other brands have the same problem.
Can you tear down a handcrank power supply for phone cheap knock off
my ipod touch refuses to charge from my mains power adaptor and my power bank. it charges ok from the official plug though... i might check the data pins on my power bank and maybe short them together? unless the chip onboard is actually communicating with the device being charged? edit - just checked, the data pins on the power bank are a dead short
I've noticed my Samsung charger as well as a few Apple chargers increasing Vout to about 5.5V. I'm assuming this is meant to offset the V drop due to cable resistance. Might be worth exploring.
ivonly ever seen 5.25 max. 5.50 is way too much
Interesting, my laptop has quick charge and can provide at least 1.5 amps when it detects a device (such as my phone), and the phone came with a special fast charger, which according to a measurement app I have installed, delivered 2 amps.
I wonder if the fast charger works in the same manner or if it's a bit more advanced, I need to try hooking my usb power meter to it and connecting another device to charge.
hey Clive, there is an app called ampere which tells you what current your phone or tablet is charging at.
I wonder what type of charge optimizer you got, usual there is no way they can be damage. They do not see the charge current, only the coding on the data pins.
My advice is to get a charger with build in charge optimizer (or auto coding as I call it). Using an external charge optimizer will often be a bad idea.
The best charger you can get today is one with auto coding and QC2 or QC3, it will charge just about any usb device at maximal speed (And stay away from cheap Chinese models, they may kill you).
Ive seen those resistors on one of those "RING" branded 12v cigarette socket to usb, two 49.9k resistors and a 43.2k and 75k resistors.
Im no fan of charging stuff from computer usb sockets, i use a charger.
I would love to see a video about your workspace
That would be great
1:31 You got the data polarity correct.
I never trash things! even if its broke. So long as the item in question has some sort of potential value/ future use .. now Im affraid I have early signs of hoarding, how do you stay organized Clive?? Lol
Since USB 1 we've had overload protection built in to the USB controller, it'll shutdown the supply and Windows will display a message saying the port has been overloaded.
This is why the emergency phone charger I made didn't work well. Phones check data lines before fast charging, and some won't charge at all if data lines are open.
Henry Kroll You can get one of those PortaPow dongles they sell for a couple of quid on amazon. They do all the data line fiddling so you don't have to :D
Magic smoke. That's what I always thought. Because once you let the smoke out it's quits working.
Question, if I could from you. When I plug my phone in to the computer (desktop). It asked me if it's data, media files, or charging. Is that so the computer knows how much power to put out? But the phone always shows that it's charging no matter what option I picked.
Isn't the red LED quite a useful safety feature if you were walking along a road at night?
So could these be used with 1 amp power banks and get the current closer to 2 amps? And how safe would that be to the power bank's circuitry?
The magic smoke. When i say that at work they just look dumbfounded. Hahaha
What is the phone you mentioned with such a good battery life? Cheers.
How can an LED be variously Blue, Red and Black??? I would love to see black LEDs. Is "Black" a technical term for OFF?
In order to "convert" a usb charger to "fast charge" would it be ok to use a male and female usb with the power leads passing through but the center leads shorted toward the cell phone?
I have a plethora of chargers but only a couple of them are fast chargers.
With this adapter all of them could be as fast as their output will allow.
It would also keep my LG from complaining about not using the correct charger...
I doubt that the charging controller actually communicates with the host. It's more likely that it simply monitors the voltage sag and varies the charging current accordingly.
My notebook has a "supercharger" feature. If it ever works (...) it can put out up to 2 Amps per USB port, which can be quite handy. But as I said "IF it ever works". Plugged my powerbank to the PC, drawing 2A confirmed by the charger doctor. Then I was like "wut, it works :0 " and tried to replug it into the same port...now only 1A. Then again replugged it to the same port, 500mA left :D
Cool thing is that it is on all the 4 USB ports with different chances to actually get the max. output. Or I could just use the USB extension 3cm right next to the laptop which goes to a 1A supply which is enough for all devices except for the tablet and powerbank c:
Oh and: When I play the game "Cities Skylines" on this thing here, the CPU is loaded 90% and the GPU almost 100%, making the power consumption really damn high. If I then plug in anything more than a USB Stick or mouse to the notebook, the CPU gets utterly downclocked from 3,2GHz to 1,0GHz because the whole power consumption exceeds the 120W input of the laptop :D
Thats why there is the extension, to supply the extra fan-pad without killing the gameplay every 30 seconds.
I was really hoping you'd dig into the real 2.1 amp fast chargers like my Samsung uses, or Nexus devices. The difference between an incompatible charger delivering 300mA and a proper one at 2.1a is nuts. How does it work? How does the phone know it's connected to a fast charger?
lifehacker.com/charge-your-phone-in-half-the-time-quick-chargers-expl-1682276989
Read :)
+Chris kv A decent article but was hoping to go deeper in the video, comparing the internals/schematic, maybe hacking a non quick charge to do quick charge?
+Bobby M u can't, only quick charge supported phones can use quick charge. Since it's a technology developed by Qualcomm.
Happilicious I have a quickchage enabled phone and am constantly annoyed that only my oem charger will do it. I meant I'm curious, what are the other chargers missing. There must be some signaling
Bobby M sorry to say this but if only qualcomm were to release the schematics of the technology, then it's possible. U cannot simply "hack" a charger unless u know what u are doing, this technology itself is complicated for a consumer to tinker around. I wonder why not u get a quickcharge charger?