Poundland USB charger comparison. 2016
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- Опубликовано: 19 окт 2024
- Poundland has two mains voltage USB chargers in its stores. I thought I'd get one of each, test them and then take a look inside.
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"The pipe-grips of perpetual inquisitiveness".
Brilliant!
I thought he was gonna say "The Pipe-grips of Perpetuity" :P
"...And as the pipe-grips of perpetual inquisitiveness crack the case of circuital continuity, I notice it's the end of the show..."
+Christopher Woods it sure was a one way crack
Durable case to prevent "fallapart".
It's a favorite tool of the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence.
I'm happy to see these are actually of acceptable quality. I usually worry about chargers priced like these.
I saw these in poundland a couple weeks ago. Immediate thought: "Big Clive will do a tear down of these at some point"
Deltaexio whattsa mattah?
I am impressed that pound land have made a decent usb power supply for £1
top marks to them
Also, I bought a lamp from a charity shop in summer with a sticker on it saying it "passed" a PAT test. However your video made me curious so I checked the fuse, the lamp has a 13amp fuse fitted when it should be a 3 AMP, be careful folks. This is why as a rule of thumb I check everything myself. If I buy electrical items from car boot sales I will always open up plugs to check wiring and what not.
Matt Quinn I've never seen 1a fuses. I'll be sure to keep a lookout for them, most of the low current stuff have 3a fuses which seems a bit silly for a clock or something.
"The pipe grips of perpetual inquisitiveness" ... LOVE IT!
Blinking flip.!
That's a better PAT machine than I've ever been given to use..
Top gear!!
I had a Poundland USB cable plugged from my PC into my iPhone 4 at the time, and at the phone side of the connector it began to melt and smoke. Never bothered with anything electrical from the pound stores since. Interesting to see some of their more recent stuff.
Can you get "FAILED" stickers too? I want to troll.
I actually bought this a while ago but I've not even took it out the packaging as I began to feet a bit unsure... but after seeing this I am going to use it now :)
A video on PAT testing would be really interesting. I occasionally wonder if it is something I could do for the leads and appliances in my small office. Buying one of the lower-cost PAT-testers would pay for itself in a couple of years. I worry about damaging PCs though.
Most basic PAT testers will fail some PCs because of perceived leakage through suppression filters. Main tests for a PC are a basic continuity test for the ground to casing and a visual inspection of the cable.
I suppose Poundland has to be very careful with their mains devices to avoid the heavy hand of litigation. Which is a good thing.
Its not like Poundworld are any less culpable though.
Just brought one of these and was happy to find I'd brought the one you recommended. £1 well spent
I work for a largeish UK Bus Company in a regional Head Office...we have a PATS tester who comes round regularly and tests literally everything...from plugs, extension leads, radios to air conditioning units, computers, VDUs and the like...I gather this is the law, (and presumably we're compliant), but I'd be, (out of personal interest only), interested to know if this is typical of all UK firms? Does every company comply?
Clive, I hope it doesn't appear like I'm hijacking your channel...(if it does, please don't hesitate to delete my comment)...I respect you far too much for that - thanks for yet another interesting post
Dave
cogidubnus1953 PAT testing isn't law itself, but keeping the workplace 'safe' is. It's also typically an insurance requirement, but not always.
I have bought a couple of the tall cased ones - they measure approx 28Gigohms from primary to secondary on an insulation tester set for 1000V.
One benefit of being up all night coding is a fresh video from Mr. Clive to unwind with.
Night is for work. Day is for sleep.
I'm a support worker in a care home. I do all the pat testing.
Someone thinks I'm competent.
If you know what each test is testing then you are competent.
mostly!! However if I fail something no questions are asked the lead is cut off or it goes for a repair.
I'm not even supposed to change a plug so opening say a toaster isn't an option. The plus side of things I got a free Henry vacuum for my man cave and several other things to strip for components :-)
You should do a tutorial or (more likely) a series of them about what to check for and how to do it. Power supplies , LEDs/lights , usb stuff etc. I'm sure it would benefit a lot of us less knowledgeable /experienced people . I'm doing ok with DC stuff but could definitely use some tips on AC and AC to DC stuff personally.
I got one of each recently. I found the one with the screws has a SW5910 1631 instead of a TD203, handily it's more Google-able. It looks like a drop-in replacement for the TD203 and a bunch of other similar ICs. Couldn't find a PDF, however. Thanks for the examination and recommendation on these, handy for little projects, USB-powered soldering kits and the like.
You have so many great gadgets clive
I'm very glad you've done these, as I've recently bought the boxy one, and wondered about both. I was even going to mention them too you. My choice was based on it not looking like the cheaper one, and it being higher rated. I went in again, and they'd ran out of boxy ones.
That narrow body style is most useful with non-UK plugs, as those make the entire adapter narrow enough to be inserted in corresponding multi-way power sockets without blocking neighboring outlets on both sides, while the flat style will block 1 to 4 outlets on one side, or even block the door when plugged in to a vertical socket beneath a door frame lightswitch. This doesn't work as well with British sockets because the dummy earth pin is needed to open the 3 way shutters.
Really love your videos, don't understand half you are saying sometimes especially when you pull up your notebook and start drawing schematics xD But I like how you show me how secure what is. Having electronic things being made in China can and will lead to a whole heap of quality suffocation either to make it faster to make or cheaper to produce. I am also a subscriber to what is that Aussies name again, but his audience is a little bit more like.. Well you. This is a more PSA type of videos with just a tip of gory meat for the better knowledgeable people. And I really love it!!
PS. Ashen actually got me here, though it was more of me following a breadcrumb path to you than anything else :-)
Throughly enjoyed that video, it’s good to know it’s not all crap and that good safe usable products can be purchased for so little. I always default to expensive!
Love your videos!
Yep,My industrial tester goes to five kilovolts. And I've had some epic fails while testing that made the magic smoke come out.
In the early days of PCs (well, 486 time), we had a local authority PAT guy go to a client's and test the PCs. It was a school.
Blew all the bioses in a fun way.
Set the systems to the correct time/settings on a Monday, and they'd survive overnight, but the weekend gap from 1600 on Friday to 0900 on Monday was too much, and they'd wipe themselves.
So yes, it can damage them, but mostly either when they are already marginal, or you get a muppet doing to the testing.
We had a PAT guy blow the motherboards in 4 of the 7 PCs in a local library last week.
They're now wrangling over who pays for it...
Yeah, that's what I said. PAT test people are trying to blame the PC manufacturer!
Yes... blown a few items up in my time as well.
Not unrealistic for it to be the manufacturers fault though as the sort of bulk pre-built PCs that schools, libraries, etc buy are famous for having shitty PSUs.
Precocious output this month Clive! - Great stuff!
Clive have you ever compared these cheaper supplies to branded ones, such as Samsung or Apple chargers? Just curious as to what the differences may be and if the price difference can be justified. Cheers.
The real branded chargers are a better choice. But these supplies are a step in the right direction.
Another enjoyable video as all ways,Clive have you seen the water cooled LED light bulbs that DHgate.com are selling they look good for a test.
Why do they supply two chargers? Can you explain the difference between them. I don't intend to buy one, it's just that I'm one of those guys who doesn't really understand everything you say (read:nothing), but am fascinated and watch all your videos. Thanks!
I wish Poundland did 2amp 5volt power supply. They're far more handy.
thingyee1118 that would require not off the shelf products. For now.
2.5 amp would be nice for Raspberry Pi 3 users.
2.5/3 woukd be better. A lot of tablet chargers don't have the capacity to keep a plugged in tablet charged under heavy use, which is a pain.
The problem is that 3A is pushing what a USB cable can carry at 5V, its why fast-chargers and the new USB spec use higher voltages.
I have been through so many USB cables trying to find the ones able to handle charging my tablet properly with its STOCK PSU.
poundland now also sells 3 types of USB plug the 2 in your video and a white one (small front facing USB outlet)
i love the wrench of perpetual inquisitiveness!
Thanks for the video, bought one of the suspect items 10 days ago, nice to know it's ok.
I got my G&G PAT ticket at Southampton, sitting alongside several electricians who were being laid off by BAT, so I could test electrical items donated to the charity I worked for at the time.
Always, always the visual inspection was the most important procedure in eliminating the 'duff stuff'.
Recently I've been involved in the Contract Cleaning industry as a manager which put me in the position of having to deliver H&S training to staff.
Trust me, the notion that anyone 'checks' a Henry before use is depressingly false..😕
...and don't me started on fully extending the cable before use.
glad you did this video, bought two for the wife as hers seem to go missing at work...
I personally use the £1 charging cables from Poundland. It works great on my iphone and as it's cheap if it get's damaged I can just replace it easily. I personally wouldn't trust a mains USB charger from them, I would rather get a amazon basic one as I know that amazon keeps a high standard. A supplier for poundland could either skimp or let standards get too slack.
Do you think Poundland discovered your channel and sought out a better quality products to get your approval?
I'm curious what the inside of a Poundland looks like.
Gooberslot
Just like any other shop.
i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2012/07/06/article-2169959-13EFD74E000005DC-424_634x421.jpg
Spikey DaPikey That's a lot nicer than I thought it would be. The only thing I have to compare it to in the US is the Dollar Tree and that place is pretty nasty.
Gooberslot yeah its just a standard store really. a lot of products are repeated and they spread things out over a much larger area than is needed. also it used to be that everything was £1, or if worth less than £1 maybe 2 or 3 for £1. but now theyve introduced just any old shit. somethings can be £30. they are losing their identity and are just switching more to selling whatever. you have to be careful as sometimes you assume its cheap but its not. they shrink things or put one or 2 less of something in a pack to bring it down to the £1 mark. the stores themselves though ive never had a problem with, clean and tidy.
I suppose it's kinda like the DAISO, a chain of ¥100 stores in Japan.
Just subbed. love your style of explaining circuitry. you have enriched my hobbyist knowledge of electronics. Thanks.
Hey Clive,
Any chance of us ever seeing some of the less than graceful footage that's almost always cut out? I can't really explain my need for seeing the pipe wrench in action but I do need it.
Pipe grips of perpetual inquisitiveness. Quality saying. I shall try to use this every day. :-)
I was waiting for you to get your hands on these
Do you remember the old round electric kettles (not Russell hobs) that the element was held on by a large diameter plastic but and sealed with a rubber grommet. Well the main body of the kettle was not earthed and would fail any Pat test and could not be regarded as an isolated part.
I quite like mole grips for cracking open stuff. You can more finely adjust the distance, so that they only just crack the glue and wont go too far.
@bigclivedotcom Thanks to you I'm now really interested in custom circuitry and PCBs. I'm 14 and I've now got a proper hobby besides gaming :P. Thanks heaps :D
Cheers Clive, I might pop down to Poundland and get one, they can power my USB xmas lights. Rename your pipe wrench to "the inquisitor"
My company just bought the same as above and Seaward provide a dvd that lets you do their exam on line to gain a certificate to say you have a good understanding of PAT testing and the equipment used. I did and passed :-) Not bad considering I have no idea how to wire a plug!!! ;-)
Although a tiny "sample size" this supports my observation that Chinese electronics product quality is very rapidly improving, even at the "extreme low budget" end. Companies such as Uni-Trend, Atten, Hantek, are all producing very good quality product, and this has meant the "average hobbyist" (the one without the inexhaustibly-deep pockets) can now get their hands on reasonable-quality instrumentation.
Phil S China has always had the capability to make even top notch stuff. They have the stereotype of being cheap shit, but everything made is made to spec, often 'cheap as fucking possible'. Have had runs of machined stuff done for random classic car fittings at spec, and the qc/machining was top notch. Quality was better than runs we had done in the states, but cost a third as much including shipping/freight.
It's not so much China, as Ebay, Alibaba, Amazon, and dodgy market stalls. China's just filling in a demand for unbelievably cheap shite that sortof does the job and probably won't kill you, most of the time. Although they're pushing it with those gay Dalek camping lights.
If you go to actual reputable shops to buy stuff, you've got the same expectation of quality as ever. Unless maybe some Chinese pirate knockoff stuff's found it's way into the supply chain. But at least your next of kin can sue if that happens.
the "china makes crap" attitude is just from people who buy the cheapest possible stuff off ebay, didnt know or bother to find out that the "500,000mAh usb power bank" listing couldnt possibly be true etc etc, basically clueless cheapskates. then they get outraged when they realise they bought crap and assume that the thing is crap because its chinese and assume that all chinese stuff is equally crap when of course neither is true. its telling when you see amateur reviews or mentions of products, if somethings crap its described as chinese. if it isnt, theres no mention of its origin even though its also chinese.
btw there really are listings for 500,000mAh power banks, and people are buying them.
GetTheCheeseToSickbay I've bought "more than a few" metrology instruments (calipers, verniers, bore gauges etc.) from Chinese suppliers over the past decades, and I've found their stuff to be VERY well-made, and VERY good quality. OK, not "quite" up to Moore and Wright for example, but more than enough for the amateur machinist, and that includes all the digital "Mitutoyo knock-off" stuff I've indulged myself with :0) Chinese carbide inserts for lathe tools last just as long as the "big names" (especially on the softer materials - brass and alloy), and cut the machinable ceramics will noticeably less chatter. Chinese Hakko knock-off tips? just as good (same weight / dimensions), and the Hakko tip thermometer thermocouples are as good as the real deal, for a tenth of the price.
seaward equipment is really good. We bought one that was about £900. It was to replace a Meteral testing unit
Clive, I do predict this vid is filmed around 14 o'clock right?
I think I filmed that at about 9pm (21:00).
I was examining these in Poundland today!
Have you ever looked at the insides of the mains face-plates Clive?
I've been gradually replacing all my mains outlets with similar equivalents which have USB power ports in them, and _try_ to get ones rated for at least 2amps (2000mA) output due to the large number of smart devices I have which need to be charged in this manner, several of which need to be powered down to charge at 1amp because effectively stand-by operation consumes at least 1amp, and you need to get over 1.2amps to even trickle a charge into them.
I can pick them up in many of the supermarkets, in Wilkos, and in Wicks / B&Q quite easily, but I'm not sure of the quality of these devices. Certainly, they reduce the number of mains power sockets I'm taking up with portable devices on charge, but quite often these devices _are_ exactly the sort of iPhone / iPad / Surface type "premium" item which recommends you only charge it with the charger that came with that device, and yet I'd rather _not_ actually, because then I have nowhere in my house I can plug the kettle / toaster. XD (or every socket has an array of 8 gang power supplies hanging off it, with half of the sockets unpopulated because, again, these "premium" chargers often don't play well with multi-plug adaptors, just in terms of their physical dimensions)
I think I recognise that first board - I think you may have encountered it before!
I wish we had these at Dollar Tree in the States. All I can find there are 12V to 5V car adapters. DC to DC is not quite as exciting as AC/DC.
hey Clive.you must have a rather upmarket pound land and pound world,here in north London that never stock any useful bits like these...thanks for the reviews..
So "PAT testing" is like "LCD display" then.
and PIN number, ATM machine, NIC card, ,ABS brake system , GUI interfaces....
So many cases of of RAS syndrome (Redundant Acronym Syndrome :-)
AzuraelX "ABS stands for Antiblockiersystem (Anti Lock System) so ABS brakes is correct"
That'd be in German - in English the expansion is usually Antilock Braking System, So ABS Braking System would actually be a double redundundancy...
Don't mind me, I'm just being pedantic as usual
Not a good list of examples though.
We normally talk about a PIN code or just PIN. I've never heard anyone say, "PIN number."
Similar with an A.T.M. We just call it an A.T.M.
NIC stands for, Network Interface Controller. Therefore, "NIC card" expands to, "Network Interface Controller Card"
I've heard, "ABS Brakes" before, usually in marketing and advertising.
And I usually say, "a/the G.U.I." while most of my colleagues and friends have no idea what that is. :P
(no, I don't say "gooey" that would be like calling an L.E.D. a "lead" :P )
Aadil Shah interesting that you have never heard "PIN number". I find that a very common phrase where I live. I also here "ATM machine" used about equally with ATM
I live in South Africa. Maybe that's the difference?
Used to do PAT testing. I once succeeded in closing down a large school office. They ran everything off extension leads which all failed. Then to finish them off I failed their kettle and coffee machines.
I've got 3 of those USB chargers so far, pretty good for a quid.
its crazy that these are a quid. I can understand chinese ebay selling stuff at that price but retailed in the UK from actual shops...how can it be possible. also what are the little blobs of red stuff that look like tomato sauce on the smd side? extra insulation?
automated machines to assemble the units, and trained monkeys often called mangers to be in charge, and they bulk buy the raw components, i would to know how much it actually cost to make a unit, there can`t be making much of a profit.
The red streaks are the glue used to adhere the surface mount components before soldering. It's visible in unpopulated positions and also seems to have been applied to provide extra barrier insulation.
hard for me to see what you're looking at but its probably glue to hold the parts on the board so that they don't fall off during the manufacturing process. if that is the case then that process would be known as wave soldering
Gillian Seed cheers for repeating what Clive just said.
They don't necessarily make a profit. Sometimes they sell stuff for under cost to get people to come into the store and buy other things. Look up loss leaders.
Maybe a video about amounts of radio interference generated from these power supplies,as a radio ham we need as little interference from power supplies as possible,Colin
If you do the PAT vid, see if you can borrow the all singing and dancing version with flash test, that's what we used where i worked, would be cool to show the world how we do things ;)
we used the merohm pat tester, with the built in printer . easiest job of the year
We had a couple of Seaward PAT1000S testers. then upgraded to the seaward PAT2000
Steady on, do you mean to say that in the UK you have a horde of bureaucrats running around looking for green labels?
Here any permanent installation is subject to inspection, but the appliances you plug into the socket is completely the users responsibility.
'The tight grips of perpetual inquisitiveness' - LOL!
I recently got a Motorola Moto G4 and it has a "Turbo" charger (capable of outputting 12v at 1.3a over USB to a correct Turbo enabled device). I'd like to see a teardown of it to see how good it is. Unfortunately I can't send my brand new charger though.
As a non Electroguy, I would appriciate a little guide towhat all the components do, like the rektyfier and so on. Think you!
I'm...kind of confused?
I thought that pyrotechnics usually had the positive and negative leads wrapped around them to render them inert, how exactly does it work in this case?
Handy little supplys clive.
I take it the emi capacitor is connected to the mains neutral?
On one it's connected to the positive of the rectified and smoothed primary supply and on the other it's connected to the negative. It's really just intended to provide a return path for capacitively coupled leakage between transformer windings.
You can have a lot of fun if you find the red "fail" PAT test stickers.
Supposedly ;-)
I think we getting close to a point, Mr Clive, that we'd like you to share with us how or where you got your USB resistive load.
Standard on eBay.
Cut an old USB cable/broken USB stick and solder on high wattage resistors?
you can find suitable values/powers in any/most broken CRT tvs/monitors...
OR you could buy resistors, they are cheap, but i never tried, there is so much trashed stuff laying around...
Add a switch if you want it switchable resistance...but i found it easier to just make multiple plugs with different resisrors. They get HOT (just in case you forget ;-)
OR you can go ultra high tech and use a LM317 in current regulation mode, which is easier to mount on heatsink that does not burn your fingers/table/whatever it is touching after prolonged use ;-)
I got this one. Its using a mosfet as a load and has a ventilator that kicks in when the fet gets too hot: cgi.ebay.nl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=351633262422
Those green labels seem way better than what OSHA standards are... every thing has a giant form attached to it, must be inspected before use, and at predetermined intervals, also there's a written procedure on how to inspect it. And they are on everything....even the shop broom.
THanks BIG CLIVE for that.Still waiting for your battery one O one
We have a pound shop AND a 99p shop here in Blackpool......I was going to go in the 99p shop the other day, but changed my mind in case the quality wasn't as good as the pound shop !!!!!! (we now have a 5p shop as well !!!! (they just sell carrier bags)..........
NOBODY EXPECTS THE PIPE GRIPS OF PERPETUAL INQUISITIVENESS!!!! XD Sorry, I had to.
God dammit, it happened again. Got home from a long day of driving around and shopping, got onto YT to watch some vids, and fell asleep to Clive doing his thing again.
Well here I was all set to say that if I ever travel to the UK, I'll just stop by Poundland & get a charger for my phone rather than use a death-dapter. Maybe I'll take my chances the death-dapter... But I'll probably find a place where I can get a square pin to mickey mouse ears cord for my laptop power supply.
do all poundland stores get there stuff from the same source or do different stores have different suppliers and clive just lives next to the good store.
I was looking at one of those today and was wondering how good they are.
I would be interested to see a video on PAT testing
Hey Big Clive, had an argument with my mate about the difference between Digital and Normal electric motors he told me there was no such thing as a digital electric motor (or they all are) if there is a difference could you do a video on what the difference is? of if he is right just let me know... cos i want to know.. I think there must be or Dyson couldn't make a big old fuss about their motors being digital on adverts if there is no such thing, I know its not related to this video, but i thought if anyone would know and be able to explain it - it would be you! thanks for your videos you got be back into electronics again (I dropped out because I can;t physics)
also this seems relavent www.hulldailymail.co.uk/fire-risk-as-poundworld-phone-chargers-are-recalled/story-29970870-detail/story.html
no such thing
It's a real thing, but with marketing hype. What they mean by "digital" is that the motors are electronically commutated. Or in other words they have no brushes or slip rings. The coils are switched electronically (that's the digital bit) by sensing magnetic feedback. This allows small motors to be run at much higher speeds than could be achieved with carbon brushes.
bigclivedotcom thanks! :D
does that really make it a "digital" motor tho? theres no doubt that the dyson motors are really well made little things but if electronic control makes a digital motor then a lot of motors are digital, the direct drives in technics decks, or the 12v motor I put in a little dremel/drill thing I made that has a quids worth of ebay PWM module controlling it. personally I think dyson are stretching the language as far as they can get away with
I am always PAT testing PCB boards.
PCB boards for ATM machines, surely.
i was in poundland today and they have new usb chargers these ones look more like the apple ones so worth checking them out mate
Was in looking for them today and they don't have them here yet.
bigclivedotcom we had quite a lot of them if you would like i could post you a few on and im in dundee so not a huge distance away
Compared to the charger that comes with Sony or Samsung phones, the smooth version of this (coupled with a poundland USB lead) connected to the mains is extremely slow at charging said device.
If I catch the USB cable I use to charge my phone on the back of my arm, I can feel a slight tingle.
I assume it must be mains voltage AC at a low current?
They all seem to do it, irrespective of their apparently quality.
Its just because your skin is not that thick on these body parts so you feel it easier i think
its the class x capacitor that feeds a small amount of ac 240v across it, yes they all have such a thing
The metal strips running from the plug to the terminals inside the second charger, what do they run near? Those giant bare metal strips seem like they might ruin some of the clearance or isolation inside the unit.
It is clear of everything. I checked that.
Bought two of the round one. First one 5.02 volts runs a Raspberry Pi no problem (which is an achievement). Second 4.8 volts, Pi runs OK but the warning low power flash keeps appearing.
Another great review.
7:46
YOU NEVER FINISHED THAT STORY AGH!
That was the story
"The wrong types of fuses"
Doesn't feel like a proper ending. Like he's about to say some more stuff you can find out from doing high voltage tests, but the label gets in the way
Sorry, I got distracted. In the UK we have fused plugs to protect the flex. You should choose the fuse according to the flex size and part of the PAT procedure is to pop the lid off the plug and check the fuse is the correct type and also whether the screws are tight. Typical fuse values are 3A, 5A and 13A.
bigclivedotcom I'm interested in finding out about that mobile phone you featured in one of your videos, how is it going for you now?
I've often wondered about PAT approval stuff, just never bothered to look into it though, given it's that simple to do I could probably do it myself, if I could be arsed... :P
mostly is obvious failures, bad cables to check for, most appliances wont fail in themselves, just buy some labels and slap them on! lol,
jusb1066
Nah, like I say, I'd do it if I could be arsed, and I could probably just print off some labels myself (colour laser owner, which has a PAT label on it!!!!), saves buying pre-printed ones... :P
What is the difference between a low-voltage/high-current test and a high-voltage/low-current test that is, why are they different if the power is to be the same and what are they meant for?
slightly off topic but amusing:
today i was at some thrift store today that also sells new stuff and i found new led filament bulbs of aliexpress.
the same brand i bought too.
I'm almost ashamed to ask, but what is the purpose of the spark gap on the PCB?
Prevents arcing between tracks on the board.
If there's an electrostatic discharge onto the chargers lead or whatever is connected to it, it provides a path back that avoids excess electrical strain on the insulation of the transformer or suppression capacitor.
I get 800v peaks every minute when there is lightning here, if I remove my TVS protection.
The peaks give 7A over my 600v TVS(first line of defence) measuring quickly with my bluetooth Mooshimeter at only 8KHZ, so higher irl.
I might burn the oscilloscope and I know enough to want to put some quit big TVS arrays and thermal fuses in.
I'd love to see a video on PAT testing FAQ, and a video where you PAT test all that chinese tat you've got over the years :)
Do you think a genuine Apple iPhone charger will really be significantly different?
well they have gone through extensive testing, so you know theres no cheap wire in the transformer to catch you out, or fake caps etc, and a proper spark gap that complies fully etc, what it comes down to is, sure some chinese adaptors are fine, but you never know, with apple you know everytime (so long as you didnt buy a fake one)
Could you get a OnePlus dash charger for a teardown? They claim to do smart stuff in the wall plug so the phone doesn't get hot, but I can't see what that would be... unless they actually supply a different voltage that better matches the cell...
Only Lurking I know the newer generations of Qualcomm's charging standard can drop the output voltage to 3.mumble volts in multiple increments for this reason
We have a similar thing in the computer hardware world. Where some people call it a NIC card and they are calling it a Network Interface Card card.
I was taught with a megger, one of the old wind up ones as well!!
It is 25A, well the fluke I use at work is on its higher setting.
I always wondered how much ripple cheap chargers will have.
Martin J I had chinese one... 300mA ok. but 1A load turned it into an toothsaw generator.
***** Ouch! I found an old web page on the subject that was really interesting. www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html
Very elaborate research done on several chargers. Thanks for sharing that link!
***** no prob.
Could you test and explain USB killer 2.0?
I can do it in 10 words: the less protection it has the more parts are destroyed.
I know very little about electricity, but I can roughly explain how a USB killer works.
Essentially, it is first charged, which charges the high voltage capacitors on the PCB. When it is plugged into a device, the large amount of charge from the capacitors will be put through the device you want it to go through. A lot of products nowadays have overvoltage protection on their USB ports, however a LOT do not, including a lot of desktop computers. Even the ones with overvoltage protection quite often don't function how they used to, for example if I remember correctly, using one on an iPhone 7 will make the charging port redundant.
What I'd really like to know is what is the danger of something like this failing catastrophically? I'm imagining it'd kill the device plugged in?
well theres that, or it could kill you. clive did a vid a few months back about a usb power supply that put out mains voltage on the usb sockets. and those poundworld ones that got recalled are apparently a fire risk.
These ones are better than many others in that regard, but when something small like this fails there's always the risk of the conductive flash of plasma engulfing the interior of the unit and briefly providing a path for fault current to the output.