@@jeremyb8493 they forgot to add in that the brake tension requires backing right off to be free of the drum. I learnt this the hard way. There is a slotted hole with that appears to be a cog looking wheel in the hole. This is the adjuster. Flick it which ever way loosens the shoe. This is also the adjustment to be made to tension the handbrake. I found all this out the hard way.
Looks like you’re also a Canberran - what are the odds that I’d look up a “how to” and find another Canberran showing how to. Perhaps do a quick how to on how to wind back the handbrake - I tried doing the rotor and pad swap last night and the first went exactly to plan as per your video - but the left side the rotor was held on by an over adjusted handbrake and nothing would get that rotten thing off. Had to call in reinforcements that worked out how to dial back the handbrake on that side. Took hours to do one side.
WARNING - Great video BUT remember to release handbrake BEFORE removing rotors. Followed video without pre-watching and they did not release handbrake until they noticed it was still on. This caused a can of worms for me with the handbrake becoming seized in the rotor and hours of work getting it off. I suggest you edit the video so you let viewers know of this error incase, like me, they dont watch it through first before attempting.
Read the comments first. They cut out the most important part. Adjusting the handbrake adjuster. You can see when he can’t get it off. He obviously made the mistake, should have left it in to show people what happened. Dick move
I followed this video and stuffed the shoe retainer clips. You don't know how to do this job properly and your misguided steps end in disaster. Take the video down. Learn from Forby diesel, not this guy
I second to this. He should mention that he needs to loosen the handbrake by adjusting through that small hole on the rotors before removing the rotors, otherwise you will stuffed up the clips. I recommend he needs to edit the video and add subtitles to remmind the viewers before they stuffed up their brake clips. Cheers kabayan.😊
Excellent job , explained that well … cheers guys
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
It appears your drums were fouling as the rotor didn’t come straight off. How did you free it up? It appears it had been edited out.
Seized handbrake cables?
@@jeremyb8493 they forgot to add in that the brake tension requires backing right off to be free of the drum. I learnt this the hard way. There is a slotted hole with that appears to be a cog looking wheel in the hole. This is the adjuster. Flick it which ever way loosens the shoe. This is also the adjustment to be made to tension the handbrake. I found all this out the hard way.
@@Ezzyboo11 thanks, yeah me too, just tore the whole lot out and will hand it to my mechanic for now… right pain in the behind!
@@jeremyb8493 haha. Yeah shot house hey. This video just annoyed me cause they have edited that part out.
@@Ezzyboo11wish I saw these comments. Think I’ve just stuffed mine up now 🤬 what a shit video for missing that
I appreciate your video brother thank you 🙏
Looks like you’re also a Canberran - what are the odds that I’d look up a “how to” and find another Canberran showing how to.
Perhaps do a quick how to on how to wind back the handbrake - I tried doing the rotor and pad swap last night and the first went exactly to plan as per your video - but the left side the rotor was held on by an over adjusted handbrake and nothing would get that rotten thing off. Had to call in reinforcements that worked out how to dial back the handbrake on that side. Took hours to do one side.
Use an old pad to retract the piston back so you don't damage it.
What did you do at 4:44 when vid stopped I’m stuck there, rotor is loose but won’t come off
Thanks. Looks really easy.
WARNING - Great video BUT remember to release handbrake BEFORE removing rotors. Followed video without pre-watching and they did not release handbrake until they noticed it was still on. This caused a can of worms for me with the handbrake becoming seized in the rotor and hours of work getting it off. I suggest you edit the video so you let viewers know of this error incase, like me, they dont watch it through first before attempting.
How's the brake dust with the DBA extreme pads?
Very little that's why they are the best
Read the comments first.
They cut out the most important part. Adjusting the handbrake adjuster. You can see when he can’t get it off.
He obviously made the mistake, should have left it in to show people what happened. Dick move
Does anyone know where the cruise control fuse is located? Prado 150, year 2014, engine 2.7.
Wish I read comments first .. this video is a proper stitch up .. 🤦♂️
Nice work thanks.
Important: Detention of the handbrake will likely be necessary.
Do you have to bleed after the installation ?
No bleeding needed as we pressed the brakes piston back with the brakes reservoir lid opened.
USE TECHSTREAM to bleed, its easy!@
Toytota wanted $1600 for new pads and rotors... bloody rip off, I can buy all the tools needed, after market parts and still save cash!
Oh what a rip off …….
A single rim from Toyota is $1650 too lol
I followed this video and stuffed the shoe retainer clips. You don't know how to do this job properly and your misguided steps end in disaster. Take the video down. Learn from Forby diesel, not this guy
I second to this. He should mention that he needs to loosen the handbrake by adjusting through that small hole on the rotors before removing the rotors, otherwise you will stuffed up the clips.
I recommend he needs to edit the video and add subtitles to remmind the viewers before they stuffed up their brake clips.
Cheers kabayan.😊
Have you boys got a link for it? I've got the same project on a kdj150
@@mtmjoziadventure1409 Good idea
True
Hey hey you skipped a bit because I had trouble brake pads getting caught on rotor
Good point