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Supercharging a Xentec HID ballast
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- Опубликовано: 3 янв 2011
- Took one of these apart and found a hidden potentiometer on the board which could be adjusted to make the ballast deliver more power to the lamp.
Im glad after reading the first few comments that I wasnt the only one that thought this guys voice is really annoying.
That black "jelly stuff" is the waterproofing for the ballasts. Now that you've cracked the case and removed the waterproofing, you might not want to use that in a wet environment. Your observation about the 35 vs 55w is correct, the potentiometer in the ballast is what makes the difference. Today's ballasts, however, are digital so it will not have the adjustable potentiometer inside, it has a microprocessor that controls the amps it outputs.
+Steven Peterson yes the gel like "jelly stuff" is actually a type of custom "thermally conductive epoxy"; it absorbs shock and actually helps to conduct heat to a stainless steel Hid ballast chassis case; now if he wanted to make it waterproof again its quite easy; just order some more "thermally conductive epoxy" and mix it up and fill it all the way to the top brim of Hid ballast chassis case; this awesome stuff is made by MG chemicals but its not cheap but its entirely effective in its application makes ones Hid ballast truly waterproof; now all one has to do is actually find a field proven Oem factory quality chipset Hid ballast that has a proven track record like in a genuine factory oem Denso, Hella, Mitsubishi, Matsushita, Panasonic D2S/ D1S type Hid Ballast!!
Loctite clear waterproofing silicone works great
You sound like that jewish kid on family guy that hits on Meg lol
Mort goldman
+Cody Yellott His kid
Neil
immortaljatt05 LMAO that's what I thought too
dustin from stranger things..
That coating is basically scotchkote, brush a dab on and you can ignore the children making ignorant comments:)
dustin from Stranger things.. is that you?
I think the kit is just a tweak on the pot. However the bulb is the resistor and so increasing the current is the same as putting a higher watt bulb in.
I'm wondering if you're right. The 55W ballasts may just be overdriven 35s. I run 55W HIDs on my Denali, and the ballasts certainly get hotter then the 35W ones on my CTS-V, or that I've ever used in the past.
I've only ran it for 5 minutes at most while it was turned up. I'm more worried about this ballast burning out though as it seems to get warm rather quickly operated above the 6 amp mark continuously.
Most automotive ballast run at a higher current (over 100 watts) for a couple seconds during start up to help the bulb warm up faster anyway. I've read that it isn't until you overdrive a bulb past 80 watts continuously would they have a chance of "popping" on you unexpectedly.
Thank you for your kindness
His voice is fine, geez. Hey Yuandrew, thanks for the video, it would be cool if you could see what amperage the ballast uses when the potientiometer is turned completely c-clockwise, on startup as well as the 9 amps or so it takes on steady state.
Could you sacrifice a ballast, turn it up all the way, put it back together, put it vertical on a hard table and let it burn-in for a few hours? Take temperature readings? Then we know if a fan+HS isneeded
This is so awesome, 100w ballasts for $10!
@Vindog800
It's harder to see on the camera but the bulb does get a little yellower-white when operated at higher current.
Thanks for the vid im gonna try this.
ps. Nothing wrong with how you sound bro. turn the other cheek. Haters gonna hate
Thanks for the video good buddy... Very informative, I do have a pair of Xentec ballasts laying around, wondering if the old Hella all-in-one ballasts are like that too, have a couple of them laying around as well...
i believe the schematic of other ballasts and even original Hella 5DV 008 290-00 is similar, which is the resistor which can be modified there to achieve the same?
You mention that when you turned up the ballast your 6000K Bulb ramped up and now was outputting like a 5000K bulb but in actuality the difference between Xenon bulbs is not light output (Lumens) its color temperature (Kelvin) 5000k is like an OEM white yellowish color light where as the 6000K bulb has a diamond white slight bluish shade to it.
More power to the hid bulb = more lumens, AND it shifts the color temp down. You get both.
Jesus you got that right. Couldn't even finish the video.
I'm following a thread on hidplanet called 'Supercharging a Xentec ballast?' and it looks like the plastic xentec ballasts might not have this potentiometer. The all metal ballast in this video looks like it's on amazon, called 'xentec universal ballast', and also on ebay
Or you could just order a ballast and bulb with the color and brightness your looking for, it's just a matter of time before you fry those ballasts and bulbs setting them higher then specs.
yeah but when you over clock the ballast like that and you first turn the lights on won't they burn themselves out while they're trying to warm themselves up since the amps jump up to warm them up and then goes back down that thing will probably max out& blow the bulbs everytime?
Very interesting, thank you for sharing
Great video, very informative. Thanks!
I'd be a bit afraid of having the bulb come apart on me, witht the increased current going to it! Is a neat trick though if you just plan to push a few more watts to it.
In other words alterering the amperage (Power Output)would never change the bulbs from 6000k to 5000k or in laymens terms from blue white to yellow white
What kind of power supply did you use?? Is it okay to use power supply more then 5A??
If you still don't know. No it does not. Just pulled apart a slim ballast and there is nothing you can adjust inside.
Good video. Ill keep this in mind.
Have you noticed a change in initial load after upping the pot and does it stay within an acceptable threshold? Have you tested it with a continuous load for an extended amount of time since this video? I'm curious to see what the max output is before you sacrifice reliability. Find out where it lets out the magic smoke and bring it down to 80% and let it be.
You kinda sound like trevor's mate wade on gta v
@XmojotronX weather/water proofing.
Hello,
Does potentiometer exists into slim ballast? or not?
Indeed, I have a second pair of Chinese ballast but light intensity decrease 10sec after boot time
+Ténébreux That is the Hid Ballast self adjusting itself to the higher level of current flowing thru the Hid ballast it has the ability to also regulate the Hid ballast current back downwards in order so that the Hid bulb does not burn out prematurely to a certain extent; which is a good thing!!
cool vid!!! Over and out
rude comments , picking on a persons voice ;-( !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
will this work on the VVME ballast they sell on eBay, also is there a chance of getting shocked when these are running, and turning the dial like that.
i have a 55w ddm tuning kit and my 6000k bulbs look white. Absolutely no blue in em
+Chris Park One of the known side effects of over driving a Hid ballast is it has a strong tendency to wash out the actual "color temperature range" upwards towards the left with less blue color; in terms of color on the kelvin color temperature scale; for example a 8K color kelvin temperature range Hid bulb will run at 6K color Kelvin temperature range when run at the higher wattage by being over driven by adjusting the current regulated through it to a much higher level like in this very particular instance!!
Well, considering there's some 23Kv running around inside the ballast, using that "plastic alignment tool" is more than a good idea. You should also observe what happens during ignition sequence after you "boost" the capacitor. Consider that the bulb could have a shorter lifespan when running @ 50W instead of 35... and oh, don't breathe helium and make video next time ;)
The 23 KV is only starting voltage. Actual working voltage of the bulbs is around 80-100V. Not that high,but still pretty dangerous. The multiturn potentiometer however is at about 12V level. It runs the current measurement signal to the controller input. Ballasts rarely regulate output voltage.
Eviltech Thanks for the info ;)
+Thomas Samoht and oh, don't breathe helium and make video next time ;)... that was funny......
+john morales you and tom are jerks
+Eviltech Yes that is correct Auto Hid ballasts are current regulated driven devices after it has struck its initial 23Kv it settles down to around 85 volts or so in a couple seconds on good Hid ballasts; when one adjusts the pot one varies that current measurement signal being input to the controller to allow one to overdrive ones Hid bulb!!
How long did everything last, any burnouts? Overheat issues (long term use)?
+Advanguard The effect of over driving the Hid Bulb with increased current causes it to shorten its life and cut its operating life basically in half; but it also burns twice as bright; also since there is increased current flowing across the Hid bulb's electrodes it will run at an increased temperature; causing excessive "wear and tear" on the Hid's electrodes; this will only cause it to accelerate its premature wear on the actual electrodes and eventually cause its early failure; though using a higher rated wattage Hid bulb will delay that effect somewhat!!
is the output of the ballast in DC or AC?
DO YOU KNOW WHY ITS COVERED IN BLACK JELLY LIKE SUBSTANCE?!
"get my little thing in there"? WTF lol 2:32
so I bought this hid headlights 6000k 55w for my 2004 mercedes-benz e320 when I finished installing I turn the light on and it works fine but when I turn the car on the lights starts to turn off and on by them self then it start twitch a lot . what can it be ? I switched the light to the other side and the ballast but still does the same
You need a relay
+badboytruck yep he definitely needs a Hid relay driven wire harness that pulls its own electrical power from the auto's battery; this is especially true if one is running with dual Hid headlight lamps with 55w bulbs as the required initial surge in electrical current has been enough to melt oem factory auto electrical wiring harnesses even!!
anybody know if this works with the slim ballast
quack quack quackidy quack quack.
nice video
does this work for digital ballasts??
Preach brother!!
Wade lol
Intresting
Hi, From What Buyer did you get this Ballast from. I purchase one and they seem not to be the same from inside and don't have nothing to amp it up
Do you have any idea how dangerous this is?
i have bought several xentec fucking kits. Not a single kit had these ballasts. these are the nicer more expensive ballasts. but i switched to VVME!
I install the HIDs at one side doesn't want to work
Get yourself a relay kit.
Your father has some answering to do for your upbringing... upvoted anyway
nice
Ampssssetting
I have a 2012 kia optima LX and my low beam headlights aren't working, one of them went out about a week ago then the other one just recently and don't know if it's the bulbs itself or something else. I haven't tried anything yet. has anyone had this problem? any help or info would be appreciated
what did you eat? nice voice
laptap zeler apparently dry ice and peanut butter
Attack of the Nerds...
Sure!!! if any one need to see there car get on FIRE try it.. Make sure you have nation wide on your side... full cover lol
@brwhit2 Exactly what I was thinking.
Poindexter voice.
You obviously have no clue what you're talking about. 4300K is the brightest color temp around. The higher you go in color temp, the lower the lumens output will be. So in this case, a 5000k bulb is BRIGHTER and WHITER than any color temp above it. 6000K bulbs in a 55w ballast will wash out and look more like 5000k bulbs. This is true for cheap ballast.. no so much the same for quality OEM ballast or Morimotos.
think i'll use a hid ballast to feed my tesla coil with an hid bulb spark gap in a magnetic field to quench it.
...just don't go over 88mph or you'll be jumped back in time.
Wont work. A HID ballast only puts out 23kv for less than a second to initialize the spark between the electrodes in the bulb. After the bulb has ignited, the voltage drops down to around 80 volts or so to keep the bulb lit.
Flat bladed? Lol you mean flat head?
hmm fun. i saw the 23kv rating so i thought hmmm arc. sure enough a second of a 2 inch arc. neat. then if set electrodes about 1/8 inch apart you get a bright continuous arc until one of the electrodes burns off. hmm connect to door handle or ignition switch. try to steal car BLAMMOH. in the seat and out your hand.
lol, the voice hahahhahahah!
dOp3bOi599 this is a digital balast
Yes it is. That potentiometer is the feedback for the current feedback.
Donald duck
That doesn't look like a Xentec ballast, It looks like a VVME or a Goldmar. Xentecs are crap and do not have the sealed output connector that that one had and Xentec has cheap ass plastic housing. Unless of course Xentec stepped up to the plate and stopped making crap that's not a Xentec.
I guess that I'm the only one who doesn't give a fuck how he sounds.
Keep in mind that this is dangerous and will most likely ruin your ballast.
Wtf did i just watched..
if you new anything about electronics you would know it is real and you more then likely use one just about everyday now go get an education
Xentec is a DC ballast. Look for AC ballast. Xentec is bad quality.
+LordGryllwotth party on Wayne
+beaneriser Hid ballast manufacturers sell both DC driven Hid ballasts as well as Ac driven Hid ballasts; definitely only buy Ac driven Hid ballasts they have a much long and more stable performing Hid ballast life when compared with cheaper performing Dc driven Hid ballasts!!
@@profdleeucc A.C. ballasts are easier on the bulbs too. With a D.C. ballast, the current only flows one way through the bulb, and over time will actually carry tiny bits of one electrode over to the other, and ruin the bulb. With an A.C. ballast the current switches back and forth many times a second, and prevents the electrode erosion caused by D.C.
An A.C. ballast will also shift the color temp of the bulb slightly lower than with a D.C. ballast, and the bulb will appear slightly brighter. I will NEVER used a D.C. ballast. Junk.
5K color temp is less white! Than 6100K
xentec is the worst hid kit I've ever seen.
This is really the only good application for Xentec kits. Don't buy them to put in your car. This is one of the cheapest kits (quality-wise) I have seen. Bulbs are shit, ballasts are cheap, you'll only regret not using the money to help save up for a legitimate kit such as Morimoto or something along those lines.
What a dumb thing to do?