Xenon Ballast Repair
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- Опубликовано: 30 ноя 2017
- Teardown Lab - Xenon Ballast Repair
Expensive ballast? Open it up and see what you can swap out!
ballast disassembly:
• L322 Xenon Headlamp Ba...
where the parts came from: • Xenon Repair Mailbag
soldering gotchas:
• Hot air failing EXTRA
headlamp teardown:
• L322 Xenon Headlamp Fu...
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Thanks you lovely people, and keep on tinkering!
you work on things a lot like I do, nothing delicate about my style. The only difference is my project often ends with me saying "oh well, it was broken anyways"
I always like to work on broken things, you have nothing to lose but a little time, but everything to gain if it works at the end 😁
So much fun to watch! Thanks for putting in the time to share your work!
You are most welcome, thank you for taking the time to comment
Mine had the current measuring smd resistor blown up (the green one in the corner 500mOhm / 3W). Sadly, I couldn't find any of those in stock, so I had to improvise and solder two 1Ohm resistors in the same 2010 package back to back in parallel config.
What components do you use for this repair ? Could you please list the parts
I love this! Thank you for you informative video it was quite entertaining 😂😅. Good day Sir!
THX Bro! :) Very helpfull
Hello.
Thanks for the video.
We are trying to repair similar device. After i have changed transistors and diode was were broken, the lamp start to light for 3 second and than stop. Do you have any idea what to check additionally. Thanks in advance.
The "trick" for working on anything like this, were the pcb is heavy copper or tightly heat sunk to the case (ie most power electronics) is either buying a cheap hot plate (set to 100 degC to pre warm the unit) or, if you're willing to exchange some cost for some more risk, is to use a hot air gun (paint stripper type) to VERY CAREFULLY warm the entire unit to around the same temp! (keep the hot air gun well away (12" or so) keep it moving, don''t rush the heating!
Do that, and you'll find your normal iron pops components off no probs at all!
(BTW, the capacitance of a capacitor is always very different as the tolerance is usually -10% + 20%. Far more important is the ESR of the capacitor, particularly, as here, when it is being used as a voltage snubber (ie it is absorbing a lot of ripple current)
+Max Torque lots of good advice here! I might need to log in via the web interface and make this a sticky 😁
Excellent ballast repair bro! I just swapped out my ballast with an Amazon one and I'm interested in opening it up and seeing if the capacitor is bulging or burned and needs to be swapped! 😊
Hello, can you telk from where you buy this components?
Link to parts used?
Good job! My first attempt at xenon ballast repair had killed my oscilloscope. Memories... :)
Oh no!!
Thanks so much, Sombody help me the list of parts number?
Autofocus is going really wild up there! 😂
+Penurious Sierra it's really freaking out. Might need to go manual soon!
what are the parts called?
Is the transistor unipolar or bipolar?
can you give me more details about the small black transistor because i need to change it and i don't know anything about it? thanks !
nice tester !
Excellent video. How did you open the ballast? The Valeo one on my car seems to be riveted closed.
I don't really how I opened it, screws I think. Can you drill out the rivets?
@@backofficeshow Yes, I think so and then glue it back together. Did you ever establish which of the two components was failing?
What number of MOSFET do u use
The capacitor which was warming up is on the low voltage supply. It heats up due to high ripple current from the inverter. Even ballasts with no faults show this capacitor heating up. What was the conclusion in this case? The tutorial was highjacked by adverts that bypassed my adblock and I could not see the end.
Can you tell me what the thermal camera is you are using and where do I buy one?
It's the flir one, it clips on the bottom of your phone. There seem to be a number of cheaper handheld ones available that I've never tried.
@backofficeshow 33:51 is that FLIR camera fixed/modded to use a cable instead of the short connector ? I have a similar one that I broke the connector :/
You should be able to solder a regular USB cable to the PCB in place of your broken one
Any update on the status afterwards?
Thanks I didn't no the flux trick .
What kind of insane device is this!? There's an 80-pin microcomputer chip to run a light bulb!? Please, someone get those German engineers laid! I remember when a light bulb was a few bucks and only required connection to a 12 volt dc power source. People have lost their damn minds.
One simple high altitude EMP weapon will darken all the headlights for 100 miles.
It's HID, about 2x times brighter than halogen and with no glare, generally ballasts last 15+ years
Same as Mazda 6 GY/GG
Molim da mi netko kaže,gdje se nalazi balast fatova na golf 4. Hvala
hello sir, i want to ask what is the code for the mosfet, happened in my ballast the mosfet is very hot, what is the code for the mosfet sir?
11:45
This is a good example of the difference between a soldering station's max temperature and it's thermal capacity.
It may be able to heat the tip to 480 C normally, but the temp will rapidly drop on a heatsink like that, and the station / iron can't keep up.
I would strongly recommend you switching to a less pointy "chisel" tip of around 2-3mm width.
It honestly makes a massive difference to getting good heat transfer, and might even help in heatsink situations like this one. ;)
With the slightly wider / shorter chisel tip, you don't really need to get the iron side-on to the components either, just end-on.
But, the chisel tip can still be used to solder very small SMD stuff, by using the corner of the tip.
Seriously, try a decent chisel - it will change your life. :p
19:00
The capacity of that iron looks pretty good tbh.
I'm convinced that MOSFET would have been removable without nibbling if the iron had a different tip.
Is that a Hakko or Weller clone of some type? The beeper sounds identical to my Duratool / Rhino / Zhongdi de-soldering station though, so I'm guessing you might have a combo version?
+ElectronAsh it's unbranded, bit I have seen a duratool variant. I do have other tips and heating elements but not need to replace either in over 7 years 😁 good iron.
+ElectronAsh I might get hold of one of those big and nasty branding iron your types for the serious stuff, like motor brushes etc
The Backoffice
Well, that might work too. lol
I have a 6mm chisel for the Metcal, and that could probably solder to the Golden Gate. :p
I love your accent!
Руки тебе оторвать за такую пайку! )
Hi guys i have a vw passat cc ballast i need repairing can anyone do it for me
Sir plz make full hid circuit and upload video
Hello Master Andrea! i have the same problem with my ballast AL(bmw e46), where i can find the capacitory epcos and the transistor? The transistor is different from the OEM? Thanks in advance
+Paolo Perozzi eBay us your friend! Type in the part numbers of what you have in there and hopefully they will have some. Have a look and let me know if successful.
@@backofficeshow Ebay is NOT your friend. Too many inferior counterfeit components for sale there. Buy your parts from a reputable electronic supply company such as Digikey or Mouser.
can someone explain why does this thing need two rather large microchips? all it has to do is literally start the lamp and limit its current
how can i check the xenon ballast with a tester ¡
open it up and test the capacitor(s) and mosfet.
Hi! I need some informations from changed parts (or i need a link) ✌️
Read your pcb capacitors lables they usually tell u
i use the broad chisel style soldering tip at work a lot, helps to dump heat into parts evenly, your always going to struggle with the point tip. thanks for the video!
I'll try one next time I'm ordering bits
I'll have to try thst also. I thought point woul be better in small situations like this
So was that the problem or not ?
Pls repair a 7356250 BMW ballast! Both of my 2014 X3 ballasts failed a month apart!
Open it up and have a look, I'm sure it's the same components inside
Soldering would be much easier after removing the PCB from the case which works as a heatsink.
Hi there! I own a Mercedes C200 kompressor and I have an issue with the headlights,the right 1 especially.Is turning off for like 2 3 seconds then come back then again,I have replaced the droser but not with a new one,it worked for like 2 months and now I have the issue again but on the both headlights,some opinions,I did have a problem with the alternator,i have change it and I still have the headlight issue.maybe a short circuit?
I would think is either the ballast or the lamp. Are the lamps original or known good brand? I have had problems with cheap lamps from eBay before.
why my low beam ballast get sulfate ?
In conclusion what was the issue on the Droser? The Capacitor,the transistor or both?
Usually the transistor. But can be bowth
2018 A job well done i say. Now im off to store to get some free penny's parts. Capacitors n flux butter.. hands is faster that the eye.
Cheers👍
Capacitors in flux butter sounds delicious 😂
Where did you get the spare parts
Ebay cputer hardware or it solutions stores
Get yourself a Weller 75watt iron that will soon pop it if the board
+razie85 how about a full kilowatt iron 😂
bonjour Il faut bien sûr toujours essayer pour savoir si ça se répare ou pas 🤷♂️🤷♂️
The reason you’re having a pain with de-soldering things is that you have a pointed tip on the soldering iron.
First thing you should have done when you got your iron was to bin that tip. Use either an angled knife edge type or a chisel shaped. Use the broad flat edge of either tip against the MOSFET tab. It’ll go much quicker.
It doesn’t matter how high you turn up your iron’s temp. If you can’t get those watts transferred to the work, it’s all for naught.
Instablaster...
And lack of flux... hot air might me a simpler solution but on that board it needs some experience
How can I operate 12 volt ballast with 24 volt
Your best bet is a DC to DC converter
Thank you bro 🤗🤗
Does it work? :)
+The Tired Techie It does 👍
Even after prolonged time? :) Congrats :D
+The Tired Techie yes, I have performed many many many experiments 😁
:D
brother mery paas 150watts ki kit hy os ki mean splay negtiv trsnsistr blast ho gea hy os trnsistr ka nomber ml jay ga
I changed capacitor and power mosfet IRL2910 and still same problem :( When are xenon's cold no problem with start, but after 20 minutes when the xenon heats up and the next switch-off / on is no longer working, only the right xenon does not light up. But after a while the left xenon (which shines) gets warm, I turn off / on, right xenon shine up again .. please help :) ..
I have VCDS and i got this error from ballast: 65535 - control unit: memory error
Have you tried any other makes of lamp? I know it sounds crazy but this can be the problem. I recall measuring with a thermal camera and they were holding steady, but it was the xenon lamps themselves.
No, I did not try other lamp manufacturers, I only exchanged them with each other (the left lamp I put on the right side and right on the leftside) still is a problem with the right side. An error message when the right xenon does not light up : the resistance value is too high
I bet it's the lamps
Ok, I try to buy a new one, and then I write comment if it helped :)
I hope it solves your issue!
Silicon tube on a solder sucker?
www.amazon.co.uk/Quality-Innovative-Silicone-Nozzle-Engineer/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512222991&sr=8-1&keywords=engineer+ss-02+solder+sucker
I have one since over two years now and am very happy with it. The tube really makes a big difference and the vacuum didn't get weaker over time (in opposite to all the other solder suckers I had before), so quality spring and sealings. It came with a quite long piece of replacement tube, but so far I didn't have any reason to replace the original piece. But I don't use it that frequently too.
+Ingo Günther nice! I will add one to my Christmas list! 😁
omg, this gave me a headache
flux
A dremmel works a lot better for destroying this type of stuff.