I just completed this repair on my wife’s 2018 and this video was exactly what I needed. This saved me a lot of time on the passenger side for sure! Thank you much
I found it easiest to just remove wheel wells on both sides. Top was 18 mm. Easy to just remove with a ratcheting wrench. Bottom is 15 mm. Pay attention to where the prybar is placed when you pry the lower control arm to get the shock out. Couldn't find my prybar. Ended up using some black gas line pipe. I initially tried to pry the bottom A-arm. I ended up prying it from the top A-Arm. Just find the sweet spot on the caliper so that you don't bend the arm from the position sensor. When I got the new shock in, because I took out the wheel well, I could hold the shock in place and put the nut on the one top strut thread that was closest to me. Then I tightened it all the way down. NOTE when doing this the bottom of the strut is still hanging in the air. Then when I pried the lower A arm down the strut popped into place. I did have to move the strut slightly once it popped into place to get the bottom bolts to align. While the plugs themselves were the same, the slide lock on the plug assembly did not match what I had on my 2018 Yukon XL. I just zip tied it.
Great vid. Principal is the same for most vehicles. I've had all 4 replaced on my 10 year-old VW Golf Mk7 with DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) with 155,000 miles. Except VW use electronically controlled hydraulic adjustable shocks rather than (far) more expensive magnetic shocks used in the vid and on premium Audi's. They're around £150/$187 a pop here in the U.K. compared to the $800 monsters on the GMC truck.
Just found your video today. Cause that's what my 2015 baby needs done.But shut I was about to hit the floor how hard that's gonna be for my daughter and I to do this. Will need another 3 ton jack. And a lot of muscle for this. So uh yeah,But thank you I really liked your video and it was a LOT OF HELP for me anyways. Keep loading videos like this, very informative. Good day happy May 2023. Oh before I forget you got your self a Texas New Subscriber.
I just did a 2018 and I was able to lower the strut down from the top through the upper frame and didn’t have to fight trying to go past the steering linkage and axle and push it up through the bottom
I just completed this repair on my wife’s 2018 and this video was exactly what I needed. This saved me a lot of time on the passenger side for sure! Thank you much
Ol boy's spring replacement tips was excellent too.
Great video! Very useful tip on the passenger side. Took me 5 hours but got both done today!🎉
Great video. Clean, simple and no extra fluff. Thank you.
Nice vid! Did this today. Found it a lot easier to remove the tie rod from the knuckle to give more clearance for the strut to drop out!
Thanks! Yeah, it does take a little persuasion to maneuver that strut around the tie rods!
after dropping the strut about half way down into the lower control arm, you can angle it to you and remove up through the upper control arm
I found it easiest to just remove wheel wells on both sides.
Top was 18 mm. Easy to just remove with a ratcheting wrench. Bottom is 15 mm.
Pay attention to where the prybar is placed when you pry the lower control arm to get the shock out. Couldn't find my prybar. Ended up using some black gas line pipe. I initially tried to pry the bottom A-arm. I ended up prying it from the top A-Arm. Just find the sweet spot on the caliper so that you don't bend the arm from the position sensor.
When I got the new shock in, because I took out the wheel well, I could hold the shock in place and put the nut on the one top strut thread that was closest to me. Then I tightened it all the way down. NOTE when doing this the bottom of the strut is still hanging in the air. Then when I pried the lower A arm down the strut popped into place.
I did have to move the strut slightly once it popped into place to get the bottom bolts to align.
While the plugs themselves were the same, the slide lock on the plug assembly did not match what I had on my 2018 Yukon XL. I just zip tied it.
Great vid. Principal is the same for most vehicles. I've had all 4 replaced on my 10 year-old VW Golf Mk7 with DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) with 155,000 miles. Except VW use electronically controlled hydraulic adjustable shocks rather than (far) more expensive magnetic shocks used in the vid and on premium Audi's. They're around £150/$187 a pop here in the U.K. compared to the $800 monsters on the GMC truck.
Just found your video today. Cause that's what my 2015 baby needs done.But shut I was about to hit the floor how hard that's gonna be for my daughter and I to do this. Will need another 3 ton jack. And a lot of muscle for this. So uh yeah,But thank you I really liked your video and it was a LOT OF HELP for me anyways. Keep loading videos like this, very informative. Good day happy May 2023. Oh before I forget you got your self a Texas New Subscriber.
Hey thank you! I’m glad you found the video helpful. Well, if you’re near Katy then I could probably help!
@@jackhfletcher how much u charge to do this job?!? And u say u near Katy??
I have a 2015 Chevy Tahoe LTZ
I just found your channel today. I really enjoy your content
Hey thanks! I’m glad you do.
$1000 without the spring and they can't give you the damn connector?
Magnetic ride delete! A must...fox or Bilstein baby
Thank you for the video!
I just did a 2018 and I was able to lower the strut down from the top through the upper frame and didn’t have to fight trying to go past the steering linkage and axle and push it up through the bottom
Took the inner wheelwells off on both sides, which made it easier
How well did soldering the wires together rather than replacing them into the terminal go? Any performance issues?
Are the front shocks air ?? Or just the back ones ???
What's the part number for the correct connector?
How much those struts cost?
Ebay got them $180-$350 new
Those are chinese knock offs.
Terminal Removal Tool
maxtracstore.com/content/MaxTracInstructions/GENERAL/991500%20%28TERMINAL%20TOOL%29.pdf
Why didn’t you take it out through the top of the control arm and back in the same way