That is indeed a wartime plane. The type study was done on the no4. The bigger planes didn't get the changes until later. The frog design with the ogee and kidney bean lever cap started with a type 16. The bolts that hold the knob and tote being steel is also a t17 hallmark.
Hi from the UK. The 5½ is my 'go to' plane, of which I have four; two Stanley, one Record & a Verum (a Luban but built to a high standard). The Record is kinda retired but the two Stanleys are in regular use, though both irons have been replaced with thicker Ray Iles 0.125" ones, with throats opened up accordingly & longer chip breaker screws. I splashed out on Rob Cosman Adjustars for the three |i use i believe me, they're worth the $ (I'm over in the US a couple of times a year, so have stuff delivered to a friend in GA - saves on postage, customs duty, import taxes...). For some reason, the Stanley 5½ often sells on eBay over here for less than $40 equivalent, which to me is an absolute bargain.
This is a type 17-the type 15 molding marks weren’t done on the 5-1/2 even through the type 18-my 18 doesn’t have them. The unplated lever plate is another clue. Finer grit applied to the sole and sides will look better, work smoother, and resist rust better. Don’t use vinegar-too acidic. You have a nice plane!
Thanks, I like the 5-1/2s. Your 5-1/2 reminds me of 1 of my No. 4s, it looks like it is 'parts' plane. BTW, I think I found an easier way to flatten the sole. I have some concrete/cinder blocks that are clean, smooth, & fairly flat sided. I 'plane' the flat side (w/ iron withdrawn) of the blocks. It seems faster & it gives a nice finish, it reminds me of 120 grit sandpaper. Since I do it outside I just brush off the 'dust' & the block's surface is ready to go again. I'll prolly finish it w/ 120 or 150 wet/dry sc sandpaper. I like it because it seems to be faster than sanding the sole for hours. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
She's a beaut! About the depth-control knob, the wartime ones were hard-vulcanised rubber. And rather amazingly (to me 😁) after years and years of looking at this stuff I think this is the closest view I've ever had of one! So thanks for that. It is a well-known thing that some Stanleys from the factory used up older spare parts from the stores, and this is probably much more common for the fractional sizes (as well as maybe the 2s, 7s and especially the 8s). So I'm thinking definitely wartime production on this one. All the other details seem to match - the cheeks look thicker than typical for earlier Stanleys, no nickel plate on the lever cap, no paint in the logo recess, and it has the steel handle screws instead of studs with brass nuts. Have you had a chance to work on the handles some since the video was posted? I was wondering if they did turn out to be rosewood, because wartime ones were mostly stained hardwood. As these are in such nice condition for their age i was thinking they could be that, without any telltale wear-throughs or scratches that reveal the natural wood colour. BTW glad to see you have tons of the Johnson's paste wax left in that tin since I just found out they stopped production of it a while back 😢Hope it lasts you for a good long while!
Hi and thanks for the info! I'll take a deeper look at the adjustment knob. It seems shinier than the other ones I have which is why I thought it was a later plastic one from a Handyman or something. Compared to the other two WWII planes in my collection it looks the same, so I think you are right. Very cool. Good catch on the handle screws. A video on the the WWII planes is on my to-do list. I found that can of wax at an estate sale. JPW is gone, but Minwax still makes something similar.
@@NotanExpert-Woodworking Yeah I thought the wax might be a lucky yard sale find because I was subconsciously aware it was a vintage can (older graphics, plus the older wax colour from before the reformulation where they left out the orange colourant).
I love Hock blade chipbreaker combinations. But i have never bought one after Ron retired and sold to Lee Valley. But I seriously doubt Lee Valley will mess with it🙏. You cannot lap the sole of a plane using sandpaper that is shorter than the plane. Because the sandpaper contacts the center of the plane all of the time and the ends only sometimes you have made a hollow in the center of the plane. This is lapping 101. This is not meant as criticism but just information. Also do you know that Johnson paste wax is about $150 a tin now?
Thanks. Good info on the lapping, I'll give my plane a check. Johnson's is gone, but I think the Minwax is fine. That can of JPW was a garage sale find.
That is indeed a wartime plane. The type study was done on the no4. The bigger planes didn't get the changes until later. The frog design with the ogee and kidney bean lever cap started with a type 16. The bolts that hold the knob and tote being steel is also a t17 hallmark.
Thanks rvburbank1. Excellent info.
Hi from the UK.
The 5½ is my 'go to' plane, of which I have four; two Stanley, one Record & a Verum (a Luban but built to a high standard).
The Record is kinda retired but the two Stanleys are in regular use, though both irons have been replaced with thicker Ray Iles 0.125" ones, with throats opened up accordingly & longer chip breaker screws.
I splashed out on Rob Cosman Adjustars for the three |i use i believe me, they're worth the $ (I'm over in the US a couple of times a year, so have stuff delivered to a friend in GA - saves on postage, customs duty, import taxes...).
For some reason, the Stanley 5½ often sells on eBay over here for less than $40 equivalent, which to me is an absolute bargain.
This is a type 17-the type 15 molding marks weren’t done on the 5-1/2 even through the type 18-my 18 doesn’t have them. The unplated lever plate is another clue. Finer grit applied to the sole and sides will look better, work smoother, and resist rust better. Don’t use vinegar-too acidic. You have a nice plane!
Thanks. That supports what rvburbank1 commented also on the type. I'm learning more about the type study differences all the time.
Looks like steel knob and tote screws also, I'd say WWII type 17 maybe earlier production got the nicer rosewood...
I have 4 type 17's now. This one was my first. Always on the lookout for them.
FYI Put your magnet in a plastic bag. It makes it MUCH easier to get all those tiny shavings off later.
Great tip. Thanks.
Thanks, I like the 5-1/2s.
Your 5-1/2 reminds me of 1 of my No. 4s, it looks like it is 'parts' plane.
BTW, I think I found an easier way to flatten the sole.
I have some concrete/cinder blocks that are clean, smooth, & fairly flat sided.
I 'plane' the flat side (w/ iron withdrawn) of the blocks.
It seems faster & it gives a nice finish, it reminds me of 120 grit sandpaper.
Since I do it outside I just brush off the 'dust' & the block's surface is ready to go again.
I'll prolly finish it w/ 120 or 150 wet/dry sc sandpaper.
I like it because it seems to be faster than sanding the sole for hours.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
I never would have thought of cinder blocks. I have ground a few things on cement slabs before though.
She's a beaut! About the depth-control knob, the wartime ones were hard-vulcanised rubber. And rather amazingly (to me 😁) after years and years of looking at this stuff I think this is the closest view I've ever had of one! So thanks for that.
It is a well-known thing that some Stanleys from the factory used up older spare parts from the stores, and this is probably much more common for the fractional sizes (as well as maybe the 2s, 7s and especially the 8s). So I'm thinking definitely wartime production on this one. All the other details seem to match - the cheeks look thicker than typical for earlier Stanleys, no nickel plate on the lever cap, no paint in the logo recess, and it has the steel handle screws instead of studs with brass nuts.
Have you had a chance to work on the handles some since the video was posted? I was wondering if they did turn out to be rosewood, because wartime ones were mostly stained hardwood. As these are in such nice condition for their age i was thinking they could be that, without any telltale wear-throughs or scratches that reveal the natural wood colour.
BTW glad to see you have tons of the Johnson's paste wax left in that tin since I just found out they stopped production of it a while back 😢Hope it lasts you for a good long while!
Hi and thanks for the info! I'll take a deeper look at the adjustment knob. It seems shinier than the other ones I have which is why I thought it was a later plastic one from a Handyman or something. Compared to the other two WWII planes in my collection it looks the same, so I think you are right. Very cool. Good catch on the handle screws. A video on the the WWII planes is on my to-do list.
I found that can of wax at an estate sale. JPW is gone, but Minwax still makes something similar.
@@NotanExpert-Woodworking Yeah I thought the wax might be a lucky yard sale find because I was subconsciously aware it was a vintage can (older graphics, plus the older wax colour from before the reformulation where they left out the orange colourant).
I love Hock blade chipbreaker combinations. But i have never bought one after Ron retired and sold to Lee Valley. But I seriously doubt Lee Valley will mess with it🙏. You cannot lap the sole of a plane using sandpaper that is shorter than the plane. Because the sandpaper contacts the center of the plane all of the time and the ends only sometimes you have made a hollow in the center of the plane. This is lapping 101. This is not meant as criticism but just information. Also do you know that Johnson paste wax is about $150 a tin now?
Thanks. Good info on the lapping, I'll give my plane a check. Johnson's is gone, but I think the Minwax is fine. That can of JPW was a garage sale find.
I buy partial cans of Johnson paste wax at estate/yard sales for $1 or less. I have a lifetime supply.
Gave up on this when you failed to complete the sole.