My 5 1/4 is my scrub, it works great, is easy to adjust, and is light. I havent tried the 40 or 40 1/2. I didnt know there was a 40 1/2. Great info as always, thank you for sharing.
Try using a cambered iron of maybe 8 inch radius with a number 6 Bailey, especially on sawn boards. You'll get a wider cut and more jump over the valleys. I personally think that modern hand tool workers misuse scrubs. Where they excel is on board edges to remove an inch or less of material to get to a particular width while the more traditional 'fore plane' is better for flattening faces.
Awesome video Chester I have the 40 except my cap is solid brass.The cast metal breaks quite easily and are hard to find.So a bit of milling and it’s fixed
That makes total sense. That is an issue with them as they really require a good amount of force to keep the iron in place. If I had a mill I would make a couple before the originals break. Good idea and thanks for watching.
Good info, Chester. I have both a 40 and 40 1/2 and enjoy using them. I did not know about the handles and the different eras. Both of mine are beech, although it looks like the 40 was stained a rosewood color by a previous owner.
I have a relatively new Stanley #5 low angle jack plane. It has an adjustable throat using a sliding front shoe. Can I purchase a cambered scrub iron for this plane or do I have to make my own iron for scrubbing?
Buy a separate plane for quick removal - Stanley 40. Instead, you can use a regular Stanley 5, making a radius sharpening on its blade. When roughing wood there is a lot of dust, sand, etc. - the plane wears out greatly. Take care of your Stanley 62.
Great lesson, easy to understand. Thanks a lot
Great video. Thanks. It was good to see them in action. Looks like you where enjoying seeing the chips fly as well :)
Thank you and yes. I did enjoy them.
Thank you for sharing great scrub planes
My 5 1/4 is my scrub, it works great, is easy to adjust, and is light. I havent tried the 40 or 40 1/2. I didnt know there was a 40 1/2. Great info as always, thank you for sharing.
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing , scrub planes are really a benefit to have , I followed Paul seller converting a #4 stanely plane into one works like a champ.😊
Try using a cambered iron of maybe 8 inch radius with a number 6 Bailey, especially on sawn boards. You'll get a wider cut and more jump over the valleys. I personally think that modern hand tool workers misuse scrubs. Where they excel is on board edges to remove an inch or less of material to get to a particular width while the more traditional 'fore plane' is better for flattening faces.
Thank you for the information.
Awesome video Chester I have the 40 except my cap is solid brass.The cast metal breaks quite easily and are hard to find.So a bit of milling and it’s fixed
That makes total sense. That is an issue with them as they really require a good amount of force to keep the iron in place. If I had a mill I would make a couple before the originals break. Good idea and thanks for watching.
Great video
Thank you
Good info, Chester. I have both a 40 and 40 1/2 and enjoy using them. I did not know about the handles and the different eras. Both of mine are beech, although it looks like the 40 was stained a rosewood color by a previous owner.
Thank you kindly.
EXCELENTE THANKS.
Thanks! RWB ❤🎉
Thank you.
I have a relatively new Stanley #5 low angle jack plane. It has an adjustable throat using a sliding front shoe.
Can I purchase a cambered scrub iron for this plane or do I have to make my own iron for scrubbing?
Buy a separate plane for quick removal - Stanley 40. Instead, you can use a regular Stanley 5, making a radius sharpening on its blade. When roughing wood there is a lot of dust, sand, etc. - the plane wears out greatly. Take care of your Stanley 62.
@@vitaliy_om
Thank you. That's good advice! 👍
Much appreciated.