How to remove, install and Grout Waterline and Accent glass tile in a pool
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- How to remove, install and Grout Waterline and Accent tile in a pool. This video shows demolition, preparation installation and grouting of the tile. The accents will not be grouted, because the diamond brite will be the filler.
Thanks for the commentary in the video. When I remodel and Replaster pools, I take out all the tile, thinset, plaster surface and have the demo done only once in the beginning. In fact we use advanced technology called hydroblasting rather than good old fashioned jack jack hammering for the plaster to protect the pools structure and rebar and provide a better adhesion surface.
After that, create the mortar bed for thinset, lay the tile, grout, then pebble/ plaster surface when the thinset and grout has had time to dry.
Thanks for the tips appreciate it and thanks for watching
One of the best videos for basic tile prep & install I have ever seen, good job Tom. I have a question. After Fernando finished the tile, what did you use to fill in the jagged line under the tile line. Also the tile on the steps with the tile raised with thin-set what did you do to even it out with the plaster finish? Was it Diamond brite? I may have missed it but saw it in your text. Nice job but type thin-set, grout, mixing amounts, and a few techniques could be discussed in more detail. Mixing large amount with a power mixer of recommended submersible thin set doesn't give you much time before it sets up.
Yes, we did use a diamond bright on the pool. I have a video on that showing the whole process. I will put the link below and you can check it out.
Complete guide to resurfacing a pool
ruclips.net/video/iF8XuQ5cA7E/видео.html
Thanks for capturing this with a good level of detail. Found it very useful. Love the tile color you chose!
Thanks we looked everywhere for it
Why not cut along the bottom edge of the tile to avoid the damage to the pool wall?
Where replastering the whole pool but probably that would’ve been a better idea thanks for the tips and thanks for watching
How would you make that cut? Angle grinder and thin blade?
angle grinder and a diamond blade
When the plaster guys come in, they will cut a straight line about 4 inches below the tile line and chip it to the concrete to be able to tie in the new finish flush to the new tile.
@@SirHumano97Usually plaster guys show up to a fully prepped pool, already has the undercut.
2:30 the possibility of bending any of the tools would terrify my old boss.
I guess these guys didn’t care I just went at it
can I change out the tile without resurfacing the whole pool? What brand of thinset and grout did you use? Also, that's grout float.
When installing tile in a pool, you need materials that can withstand constant exposure to water, chemicals, and temperature fluctuations. Here’s what to consider for both thin-set mortar and grout:
### 1. **Thin-set Mortar**:
- **Type**: Use a **modified thin-set mortar** specifically designed for submerged applications, such as pools or fountains.
- **Characteristics**:
- Waterproof and resistant to chemicals like chlorine.
- Strong adhesion in wet environments.
- Flexible enough to handle slight expansion and contraction from temperature changes.
- **Popular Brands**: Look for products like **Laticrete 254 Platinum** or **Mapei's Kerabond/Keralastic system**, which are recommended for pool installations.
### 2. **Grout**:
- **Type**: Use an **epoxy grout** or **high-performance cement-based grout** that’s rated for submerged applications.
- **Characteristics**:
- Epoxy grout is **non-porous**, highly resistant to stains, chemicals, and moisture, which makes it ideal for pools.
- Cement-based grouts (like **Laticrete PERMACOLOR®** or **Mapei Ultracolor Plus FA**) are also usable but should be sealed to ensure water resistance.
- **Epoxy Grout vs. Cement Grout**: Epoxy grout tends to be more durable and better for resisting pool chemicals, but it is also more expensive and trickier to apply than cement-based grouts.
### Key Considerations:
- Always ensure that both the thin-set and grout you choose are **labeled for submerged or underwater applications**.
- Proper surface preparation, including the use of a waterproof membrane, is crucial for a long-lasting tile job in a pool.
Tom, your videos are great. I am curious given the fact that there have been some criticisms about technique and materials used by your team as to how your pool is holding up.
Does it still look this good? Are your tiles still intact?
Pool still looks great, but on the bottom, you can feel like a little bumps and they did seal my light in so I could not change the bulb which I was a little freaked out about. I tried to get them to come back and fix the things that were screwed up, but they blew me off.
That worker adds a whole new meaning to installing "accent" tile .... translator please
Yep
So true...
Hi there , did you replaster also ? if you didnt how did they fix the broken plaster under the tiles ,what material did they use ? thank you
That’s a good question I have to get back to you after some research
@TomLeeman please get back to use
What type of thinset did you use?
That’s a good question. I guess it’s some type of water resistant product.
is it possible to do without emptying the pool? upside down? using battery tools to avoid electric accdient? any suction cups that can hold tarp to collect the debrees?
I guess if you pulled the water down underneath it, you might be able to do it if you’re just laying the tile over the old tile, but I don’t know if that’s a smart way to do it. Thanks for watching.
What did you do about the chips on the wall below the tiles?
We resurface the whole pool. We tore out all of the bubbles and bad spots and put the tile up first and then put on the diamond right after I have a video on that also thanks for watching.
Hi i have a question the mini tile have to fill out or state like that ?
The accent tile is then later, covered by the diamond bright
wouldn't it be better to cut a line with a grinder below the tool so you don't blow off the diamond brite, and then pop out the tiles?
I think that’s a good tip
Hi, do you also have a video of your pool getting replastered? also how long did it take for your pool to finish?
ruclips.net/video/iF8XuQ5cA7E/видео.html and many more
Can you do this to a pool that is filled with water? Can we still change the upper boarder to something more modern
I think you can put tile over tile. You would have to drain the pool down low enough to change your waterline tile.
Hello. Thank you for sharing this. I just had my pool finished 3 weeks ago (brand new pool) but I absolutely hate my waterline tile. My pool builder did NOT tell us that our waterline tile could range from 0-100 in color variations so now we are stuck with literally white tiles, cream tiles, and brown tiles around our pool. It literally looks AWFUL. Is it possible to replace the tiles without needing needing plaster at all since we just had plaster done (we have StoneScapes)? Any suggestions?
You can lay tile over tile but then you’ll have a little edge on the bottom it’s better to do it when they re-plaster the pool good luck thanks for watching
Don't listen to this hack. First of all, they didn't waterproof the beam before they laid the glass tile which is negligent, and that tile will be popping off soon for sure. Second, he isn't using the correct thinset, he is using the $15-a-bag home depot special thinset that is not made for glass tile. Third and most importantly, YOU CANNOT TILE OVER TILE!!!!! Jesus Christ they'll let any idiot make a how-to video. Yes, you can replace the tile without having to replaster but you will have a grout line between the plaster and the tile which will not look normal and if the mason doesn't have a sturdy hand the bottom grout joint will look horrible. My advice would be not to rush a build, all tile will have color variation and so will coping. The only way to ensure the colors are closer to matching is to literally buy way more tile than you need so you can hand pick them and no you can't return the unused open boxes. Good luck.
Agree with Dutch. The Custom-brand Versabond from Home Depot is a general purpose mortar that is not rated by the manufacturer for submerged use. He also mixed it with water and not the polymer admix as prescribed by the manufacturer for submerged. As Dutch said he did not apply a waterproof membrane like RedGard under the thinset, as prescribed by Custom. And he did not use a thinset rated for glass tile. It looks good when done but will not hold up to time when not following manufacturer’s instructions.
I was told to use 254 Platinum as your thin set or mortor
254 platinum is good brand, very tacy and hard to get off your hands and clothes. But I would not use that rubber water sealer behind the tile, because it does peel off when it gets water behind it
What those teeth on the trowel are actually for is to ensure you have the proper amount of thin set on the wall prior to laying the tile. I enjoyed this video. The job turned out beautiful. I love the concrete work you had done and the tile color you chose. If you don’t mind can you post what color/brand you went with for the tiles
Thanks for the tips!
It’s been a while since I purchased this. It was an aqua green glass tile and I think I paid about $1500 but I can’t remember the name sorry
What kind of cement is he using? And how much of it do you need vs water to mix the concrete and the thin set?
It’s a thin set and he just poured water in and mixed it until you got the right consistency thickness I’m not sure exactly what the ratio is but I do believe in the package it gives you some direction when you buy it thanks for watching
@@TomLeeman what kind of concrete. Irs concrete first then thin set. That's what u said anyway
From what I've been told it should be a hydraulic cement
We grind the excess grout down, which makes it easier to set the new tile
Excellent tip thank you for writing
I really like that tile! Where can I buy it?
We bought it in a store in Delray Beach
@@TomLeemanwhat color is it and Who is the manufacturer
You asked if it will damage the tiles when they take off the other coat of the base. Why don’t they do it in the opposite order? Do the base coat first and then the finishing tiles? Just like my house……
I don’t think these guys for that professional
All the research I’ve seen said you “should” remove the old thinset before leveling out a new mortar bed then applying new thinset and the new tile.
Excellent tip thank you
Yes remove all of it
If the wall isn’t damaged I’d use a diamond cup to smoothen it out and not have to brown coat it
Good idea
Word
17:35 says it all
Thanks for watching
Muy lento el instalador
He was very tired
Im pretty sure this guy is jelipe . Mr Johnson helper.
20 bucks is too much money .
I should fired him in the beginning.
No bueno
These guys were not the best mechanics for sure