I too moisturize the inside of my shoes. The one problem that I have had is to put the shoe tree back in before it is completely dry, usually a day or two. I have had the shoe tree stick to the inside. What a pain to remove if this happens. This seems to happen only on the bare wood shoe trees but not the lacquered wood trees. Have you had this problem?
It depends on the hatch grain. You can use a dark base coat of polish which will create the subtle contrast with the grains. However the real key is in lasting. Experienced shoemakers are able to last the grain without stretching. I’ll do a video showing this. I think it’s one of the most fascinating things about high quality shoemaking.
I have. I really only use it if the soles get soaked and when dry seem a little off. I only use on veg tanned soles. Bark tan soles don’t seem to need it ever.
I too moisturize the inside of my shoes. The one problem that I have had is to put the shoe tree back in before it is completely dry, usually a day or two. I have had the shoe tree stick to the inside. What a pain to remove if this happens. This seems to happen only on the bare wood shoe trees but not the lacquered wood trees. Have you had this problem?
I haven’t but as I said this is uncommon for me.
What's the key to getting the hatch grain to be so visible? Some trick to the shine, or just specifying a darker color of hatch?
It depends on the hatch grain. You can use a dark base coat of polish which will create the subtle contrast with the grains. However the real key is in lasting. Experienced shoemakers are able to last the grain without stretching. I’ll do a video showing this. I think it’s one of the most fascinating things about high quality shoemaking.
Have you ever used the Saphir Sole Guard Conditioner ?
I have. I really only use it if the soles get soaked and when dry seem a little off. I only use on veg tanned soles. Bark tan soles don’t seem to need it ever.