These techniques are so useful even for ornamental shrubs and trees. I have a small yard so I used your grafting techniques to graft several different Ficus elastica cultivars onto a Ficus lyrata. As well as grafting different colors of Angel trumpet vines into one tree. Thank you for sharing your techniques for trees in dormancy and when there is free-flowing sap.
Truly education comes from one another freely and in common. From this here work is coming a better way of raising a generation lost from lack of love for the truth. Doing the work for our master now that we know Him is the love of neighbour. All of the treasures are found in nature. To focus on one part of it is understand the whole. Much appreciation and love to all.
Another valuable video! Thank you. I did T-budding a few year back in fall. T-budding & whip and tongue in spring are what I love to do the most for grafting.
When you need to propagate good varieties that don’t respond well to other grafting techniques, using the T-Budding Grafting Technique in late summer or early fall with dormant buds can be the answer. Since the bud is protected inside the bark, it’s less prone to dehydration problems that can be an issue with other bud grafting techniques. Try it when propagating peaches, plums, citrus and many other fruit trees. if you liked the video or if you have any questions, leave a comment and I will try to answer as many as I can.
Most peaches, plums, nectarines, almonds, etc, which belong to the genus Prunus are compatible. Nevertheless, some cultivars might fail while others will work. You just have to try. Regarding apples, you can graft any number of Apple varieties into a granny smith (one different in every branch, if you want). The problem will be managing the vigor between the different grafted varieties. Check this video - ruclips.net/video/L_JI7n6QE7k/видео.html In the last grafting example, I have 7 different varieties of Pears grafted to the same Pear Tree.
Hello, Mr. Sacadura. Thank you for your excellent videos. I live in San Jose, CA and am new to grafting. I have 4 small (one vigorous, one moderately so) potted MP-29 rootstocks. This is hard to get in CA, almost impossible outside of wholesale. It's very resistant to oak root fungus (Amarillia) which is a big problem in our yard. I also have a vigorously growing hard-to-get heirloom peach tree scion. It was grafted this April onto the only available rootstock at that time -- rootstock which is NOT oak root fungus resistant. My aim is to graft this growing peach tree onto this disease-resistant rootstock so I can plant it into a specially prepared spot in our yard. (We all assumed the MP-29 rootstock would be bigger when it arrived this winter --it was new to the local rare plant organization I got to order it-- so the peach cutting could be grafted to it directly. Instead, I had the dormant peach scion grafted onto the non-disease resistant rootstock in April just so the peach could grow this season in case I can't get a cutting next winter.) In short, my scion and rootstock are very limited. 2.5 weeks ago (early June), I did a simple bud graft to one of the less vigorous MP-29s. I think it's alive (thanks for your instructions). But since then, one of the other MP-29s has really grown out with multiple branches. Since I also have vigorous peach growth (~3-4 long branches) of about the same diameter (pencil width), I'm wondering if I can graft a branch to the MP-29 (trim off the ends and leaves) instead of just a bud to take advantage of this vigor and speed up the process? I've seen this done elsewhere but the rootstock was cut clear through pretty low and the graft was attached near the cut like you would a chip-bud graft only with additional wrapping support. It gives multiple buds a chance to grow. Would something like that be possible WITHOUT completely cutting off the top of my MP-29 plant in case it doesn't work? In other words, could I treat the rootstock like chip-bud grafting (keep some leaves above the graft to keep juices flowing until the graft takes off)? I figure if I can graft a branch instead of a bud, it would help the peach get established sooner. But I don't want to lose most of my healthiest MP-29 if it fails. I would greatly appreciate your input! Thank you.
@@JSacadura I am moving to a new home in a while and plan to have fruit trees and a whole produce garden, so your videos are a gold mine to me right now. :D
Thanks for make this video.I'm from Bangladesh. In my country I never get parafilm easily .So, I want to get a video to using another types of grafting tap without parafilm.
With this type of graft you can use plastic grafting tape to secure the grafts. You can even use transparent plastic bags cut into narrow strips. Just be sure to avoid covering the bud. If you do, be sure to cut the plastic in the bud area after a few weeks, just in case the bud starts growing. It won't be able to break free from the plastic as it does with the parafilm.
It’s winter here now in Australia, June July August, winter ends August then following Spring starts in September, October to November, summer is December to February-and Fall starts March a April May.
Thanks a lot again for sharing your knowledge! Could be possible for Master Sacadura to make a video about grape's grafting? I unsuccessfully tried several times in Spring & Summer! I will try again now in fall.
I'm in zone 9a. Its getting chilly at night (below 50º F - 10ºC). So most fruit trees are starting to drop their leaves and reducing sap flow, so graft healing is very slow and might fail.
Amazing as always, sir I do have a question ❓ Is aluminium foil covering needed to all types of grafting or only few choosen one, as I see you used aluminium foil in some cases and not in others...
Tenho videiras de mesa para consumo próprio mas pouca disponibilidade para lhes dedicar a tenção que mereciam nesta área complicada (muita humidade ambiental) e, por isso, são raros os anos que tiro delas tudo o que poderiam produzir (tento evitar usar pesticidas ao máximo). De futuro, pode ser que surjam alguns videos sobre o tema.
Thank you for the instructions. I have a question regarding to choosing rootstock. What is best location on the tree for the scion to be graft on? Do I graft the scion on the main branch or new branch? Do I do it top tree or bottom tree? If I'm grafting it in spring instead of summer or fall, would it be growing in the same year?
I know this is a year old, but in case you're wondering for next season- I'm not too sure since I just started horticulture myself, but I know you want to graft the scion on a newer branch, one that's tender, about 1-2 years old. Not Hardwood! (I think some can work with Hardwood though but honestly I don't remember.) Also I think the time does affect it, as I'm learning it, late summer is the best time to propagate fruit trees by budding, I'm not sure for non-fruit trees. I think the location of the graft doesn't matter on the tree, as long as the branch is new and sporting new growth and has no disease. (The branch the guy uses in the video is the best example I can give) Also if you're planning on starting your own rootstalk, my textbook said they are "usually started from seed in fall to the size of a pencil by July or August." By then the buds should be mature enough for use. After all, I haven't don't this myself yet, but I am planning to come Summer. (If anyone would like to correct me let me know, I'm still learning too so any help would be good.)
?? Todos los vídeos del canal tienen subtítulos en español, incluso este. Es una cuestión de activar los subtítulos y elegir la lengua pretendida en las configuraciones del vídeo.
Thank you very much for your information....very quiet, thoughtful, and helpful. A question.....can I graft an edible pear tree onto a weeping pear tree (Pyrus salicifolia)? Regards from New Zealand.
You are referring to peaches, I presume. In North America you might find some of the cultivars mentioned in this article - homeguides.sfgate.com/low-chill-peach-trees-75882.html In my orchard I have some low chill peaches and nectarines (like Lola or Victor ) but I believe they are only available in european dealers. These have very, very early bloom dates (has most low chill varieties do), so they are unsuitable in areas with late frosts. Artic Glo white nectarine, surprisingly, produced a decent crop this year. It requires 400--500 chill hours, and we probably had less than half of that, this past winter. Most peach trees with higher chill requirements didn't produce at all.
@@JSacadura hi ... Actually I did and I'm happy to tell you of great success in spring grafting.. I put nebbiolo buds on some established rooted vines. Some of them gave me several meters of growth in Niagara region Canada.
A poda de pessegueiros está no topo da lista dos vídeos a fazer sobre técnicas de poda para o próximo ano (assim a disponibilidade de tempo o permita).
Depende da zona. É fundamental que a casca se separe bem e, nalgumas zonas (como no Norte do País) o frio começa a reduzir a circulação de seiva. Se a gema não se separar com facilidade ou se for difícil abrir as laterais do corte em T, o mais certo é que o enxerto falhe, pois pode já não chegar a soldar corretamente. Mas pode sempre tentar...
@@JSacadura a chuva e o frio acabam amanhã e as temperaturas voltam a subir, aqui no Minho. 27º já para dia 7, daqui a 2 dias. Acho que este outubro ainda irá dar para fazer este tipo de enxertos, certo?
Em princípio, sim. Principalmente se os porta-enxertos estiverem em vaso e poderem ser recolhidos (protegidos no interior) no caso de vir mais frio no espaço de tempo que levam os enxertos para pegar (em regra, cerca de 3 semanas). Para enxertos no exterior, começa a ser um pouco mais arriscado...
I have an established espalier apple tree, with1 or 2 foot long bare spots on the cordons, that I'd like to bud graft onto, to fill the branch out. You said after the graft takes, to always cut off all the the growth ahead of the graft, but that would mean cutting off my cordon. Would it be ok to just let the graft take and grow into a fruiting spur and not cut off the growth ahead of the graft? I want to do 2 or 3 on each of the 6 variety branches.
Si, también funciona en higueras. El primero vídeo en mi canal - ruclips.net/video/3ZD2fiGbWzo/видео.html - ejemplifica esta técnica. De cualquier forma prefiero las técnicas utilizadas en este vídeo más reciente - ruclips.net/video/NBV9OIfQlaY/видео.html
The best ever in answering all our unexpressed questions in grafting.Thanks immensely.
Probably it's the best channel about grafting explication on RUclips! Thank you!
Glad you find it useful. Thanks for the comment.
These techniques are so useful even for ornamental shrubs and trees. I have a small yard so I used your grafting techniques to graft several different Ficus elastica cultivars onto a Ficus lyrata. As well as grafting different colors of Angel trumpet vines into one tree. Thank you for sharing your techniques for trees in dormancy and when there is free-flowing sap.
Truly education comes from one another freely and in common. From this here work is coming a better way of raising a generation lost from lack of love for the truth. Doing the work for our master now that we know Him is the love of neighbour. All of the treasures are found in nature. To focus on one part of it is understand the whole. Much appreciation and love to all.
Another valuable video! Thank you. I did T-budding a few year back in fall. T-budding & whip and tongue in spring are what I love to do the most for grafting.
When you need to propagate good varieties that don’t respond well to other grafting techniques, using the T-Budding Grafting Technique in late summer or early fall with dormant buds can be the answer. Since the bud is protected inside the bark, it’s less prone to dehydration problems that can be an issue with other bud grafting techniques. Try it when propagating peaches, plums, citrus and many other fruit trees.
if you liked the video or if you have any questions, leave a comment and I will try to answer as many as I can.
Thank u fro your information. From India (Asia continent )
Can I graft a plum bud onto a peach tree, or perhaps different varieties of apples on to a grannysmith apple tree? Thanks!
Most peaches, plums, nectarines, almonds, etc, which belong to the genus Prunus are compatible. Nevertheless, some cultivars might fail while others will work. You just have to try. Regarding apples, you can graft any number of Apple varieties into a granny smith (one different in every branch, if you want). The problem will be managing the vigor between the different grafted varieties.
Check this video - ruclips.net/video/L_JI7n6QE7k/видео.html
In the last grafting example, I have 7 different varieties of Pears grafted to the same Pear Tree.
@@JSacadura awesome!! Thank you so much
You are easily the best grafting instructor on RUclips, which basically means "in the world."
Im a geography student and I had this in my book ,im surely not forgetting this technique now
Great close up camera shots, I think I'll try it. TYVM.
Thanks for sharing this technique. With the help of your instructions, I am looking forward to trying this.
Nice informative video keep it more power to your chanel. Watching from Philippines 👍
Sempre um prazer de receber um novo video,e aprender mais um pouco.obrigado.
Ainda bem que o video foi útil. Obrigado pelo comentário.
Brilliant Sir,Thanks
Great job .simple to do it. Thanks for share your knowledge.
This is incredibly valuable information. This dude is clearly a master.
Dear friend it was clear explanation, thanks.
Hello, Mr. Sacadura. Thank you for your excellent videos. I live in San Jose, CA and am new to grafting. I have 4 small (one vigorous, one moderately so) potted MP-29 rootstocks. This is hard to get in CA, almost impossible outside of wholesale. It's very resistant to oak root fungus (Amarillia) which is a big problem in our yard. I also have a vigorously growing hard-to-get heirloom peach tree scion. It was grafted this April onto the only available rootstock at that time -- rootstock which is NOT oak root fungus resistant. My aim is to graft this growing peach tree onto this disease-resistant rootstock so I can plant it into a specially prepared spot in our yard. (We all assumed the MP-29 rootstock would be bigger when it arrived this winter --it was new to the local rare plant organization I got to order it-- so the peach cutting could be grafted to it directly. Instead, I had the dormant peach scion grafted onto the non-disease resistant rootstock in April just so the peach could grow this season in case I can't get a cutting next winter.) In short, my scion and rootstock are very limited.
2.5 weeks ago (early June), I did a simple bud graft to one of the less vigorous MP-29s. I think it's alive (thanks for your instructions). But since then, one of the other MP-29s has really grown out with multiple branches. Since I also have vigorous peach growth (~3-4 long branches) of about the same diameter (pencil width), I'm wondering if I can graft a branch to the MP-29 (trim off the ends and leaves) instead of just a bud to take advantage of this vigor and speed up the process? I've seen this done elsewhere but the rootstock was cut clear through pretty low and the graft was attached near the cut like you would a chip-bud graft only with additional wrapping support. It gives multiple buds a chance to grow.
Would something like that be possible WITHOUT completely cutting off the top of my MP-29 plant in case it doesn't work? In other words, could I treat the rootstock like chip-bud grafting (keep some leaves above the graft to keep juices flowing until the graft takes off)? I figure if I can graft a branch instead of a bud, it would help the peach get established sooner. But I don't want to lose most of my healthiest MP-29 if it fails. I would greatly appreciate your input! Thank you.
Great video thank you again for sharing
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. GOD Bless you!
Love the clear explanation and visuals! Perfect pacing too! Exactly what I needed. :-)
Unbelievable technic love your videos well done 👍🏽👌🏼🇦🇺
excellent
Your videos are exceptional , Planters like me have a lot to learn from you.
A Sea of Knowledge, thank you again.
Miss amal you from any city in libya
I from misrata and u
From one Jaime to another, I always appreciate and love your videos.
Glad you like them! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you, very informative and excellently presented.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
incredably clear and understandable,thankyou
VERy GOOD TO THE POINT VIDIO THANKS
Thank you for this excellent tutorial.
New follower love it thank you for the time 😍
Thank you for sharing
Fantastic as always. Thank you!
My pleasure. Thanks for the comment.
I have tried a few of your grafts and all have taken thank you for your video.
You are very welcome! I am glad the videos helped. Good luck with your plants.
Wow !
Excellent ! Clear visuals, precise explanation ... BEST VIDEO IN MANY MANY YEARS !
👍👌🙏
If school was like this I would have stayed awake a lot more. :D
You're too kind, Jeff. Glad you find the videos useful and entertaining. Thanks for the comment.
@@JSacadura I am moving to a new home in a while and plan to have fruit trees and a whole produce garden, so your videos are a gold mine to me right now. :D
great video. thank-you😄
So informative. Thank you!!!!
Good presentation for beginner
from 0.
السلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاته
ماشاء الله
بارك الله فيكم 🌹🌹
Nice job sir
Amei este prosseço de enxerto. Vou fazer . Tomara que dê certo .
Boa sorte, Marta. Obrigado pelo comentário.
Bravo svaka čast , respect 👏👍🇷🇸
The best video on budding. Thanks!
Thank you for very informative videos, I enjoy your work. God bless you my friend
Nice job .
MERCI POUR TOUS, C'EST PASSIONNANT!
Thank you for another excellent video. I think I will try one tomorrow morning.
Have fun! Thanks for the comment.
Very good idea's
Thanks for make this video.I'm from Bangladesh. In my country I never get parafilm easily .So, I want to get a video to using another types of grafting tap without parafilm.
With this type of graft you can use plastic grafting tape to secure the grafts. You can even use transparent plastic bags cut into narrow strips. Just be sure to avoid covering the bud. If you do, be sure to cut the plastic in the bud area after a few weeks, just in case the bud starts growing. It won't be able to break free from the plastic as it does with the parafilm.
@@JSacadura Thanks brother to reply me.
Very useful ! ❤
Well done. Good camera work! Your English is impeccable! Thank you,
Good video
Very well explained
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment and the support.
excellent tutorial ! many thanks !
شكرا
Thank you
شكرا لك .
من الجزائر .
tx 4 sharing your experience!
My pleasure! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Love it!
Très bonnes explications lentes ,à la portée des francophones, continuer merci 🕸et bonne année 2021👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
C’est un plaisir. Merci pour le commentaire.
Subscribed. Probably the best horticultural channel that I've watched in a while
You're too kind! Thanks for the nice comment and the support.
very good information , please keep it up
It’s winter here now in Australia, June July August, winter ends August then following Spring starts in September, October to November, summer is December to February-and Fall starts March a April May.
You are right, Edna. I have to mention that I am in the Northern Hemisphere when mentioning dates in the videos.
A very good video. Thank you very much! 😊
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment.
Great work.
Its very useful for me
Very good video!
1:58 right sir. When i learn this method I cut my finger mene time. now i am good brider 😁😁😁
Great job
Good job sir
Nice
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Top demais obrigado.
Impecável! 👌 Obrigado!
Thanks a lot again for sharing your knowledge!
Could be possible for Master Sacadura to make a video about grape's grafting?
I unsuccessfully tried several times in Spring & Summer!
I will try again now in fall.
Great suggestion! I will add it to my list of ideas for next season grafting videos (its getting too cold to graft in my area).
@@JSacadura At first, thanks for your reply.
How cold is now in your area?
I'll be waiting for all your next season' videos!
I'm in zone 9a. Its getting chilly at night (below 50º F - 10ºC). So most fruit trees are starting to drop their leaves and reducing sap flow, so graft healing is very slow and might fail.
@@JSacadura Wow! I'm in zone 9a too! Also my vines are starting to drop their leaves... ...then, I can not graft until the next Spring.
Amazing as always, sir I do have a question ❓ Is aluminium foil covering needed to all types of grafting or only few choosen one, as I see you used aluminium foil in some cases and not in others...
Nice vedio
Obrigado por mais uma aula extraordinária. Queria saber se você tem experiência em cultivo de videira.
Tenho videiras de mesa para consumo próprio mas pouca disponibilidade para lhes dedicar a tenção que mereciam nesta área complicada (muita humidade ambiental) e, por isso, são raros os anos que tiro delas tudo o que poderiam produzir (tento evitar usar pesticidas ao máximo). De futuro, pode ser que surjam alguns videos sobre o tema.
Great video with great result👍🤝
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment.
Sir please make videos on mango Grafting
Thank you for the instructions. I have a question regarding to choosing rootstock. What is best location on the tree for the scion to be graft on? Do I graft the scion on the main branch or new branch? Do I do it top tree or bottom tree?
If I'm grafting it in spring instead of summer or fall, would it be growing in the same year?
I know this is a year old, but in case you're wondering for next season-
I'm not too sure since I just started horticulture myself, but I know you want to graft the scion on a newer branch, one that's tender, about 1-2 years old. Not Hardwood! (I think some can work with Hardwood though but honestly I don't remember.) Also I think the time does affect it, as I'm learning it, late summer is the best time to propagate fruit trees by budding, I'm not sure for non-fruit trees. I think the location of the graft doesn't matter on the tree, as long as the branch is new and sporting new growth and has no disease. (The branch the guy uses in the video is the best example I can give)
Also if you're planning on starting your own rootstalk, my textbook said they are "usually started from seed in fall to the size of a pencil by July or August." By then the buds should be mature enough for use. After all, I haven't don't this myself yet, but I am planning to come Summer.
(If anyone would like to correct me let me know, I'm still learning too so any help would be good.)
Em pêssego eu faço por placage da muito certo
I wonder will this work on my blueberry bushes..
Plz elaborate late summer mean month in which it work best June July August etc thx
Excelente video, pero como una sugerencia seria bueno subtitular en español para la comunidad espano hablante.
?? Todos los vídeos del canal tienen subtítulos en español, incluso este. Es una cuestión de activar los subtítulos y elegir la lengua pretendida en las configuraciones del vídeo.
¿Cuál es más efectivo, con madera o la llena limpia sin madera?.
¿Sirve que la rama del patrón sea del mismo año, osea joven y verde?.
Thank you very much for your information....very quiet, thoughtful, and helpful.
A question.....can I graft an edible pear tree onto a weeping pear tree (Pyrus salicifolia)?
Regards from New Zealand.
Wonderful as always. Off the top of your head, can you name some excellent varieties that won't need more than 300 chill hours please.
You are referring to peaches, I presume. In North America you might find some of the cultivars mentioned in this article - homeguides.sfgate.com/low-chill-peach-trees-75882.html
In my orchard I have some low chill peaches and nectarines (like Lola or Victor ) but I believe they are only available in european dealers. These have very, very early bloom dates (has most low chill varieties do), so they are unsuitable in areas with late frosts. Artic Glo white nectarine, surprisingly, produced a decent crop this year. It requires 400--500 chill hours, and we probably had less than half of that, this past winter. Most peach trees with higher chill requirements didn't produce at all.
👌👌👌👍🙏
Excellent instruction, as always. Do you think this would work on grapes?
Yes, definitively. Check my video on grafting grapes (ruclips.net/video/XHvcreBnQYI/видео.html) where budding is one of the techniques used.
@@JSacadura hi ... Actually I did and I'm happy to tell you of great success in spring grafting.. I put nebbiolo buds on some established rooted vines. Some of them gave me several meters of growth in Niagara region Canada.
There is only one place I come to for anything grafting..
Também queria saber se futuramente você poderia fazer vídeos explicando sobre a poda de pêssego .desde já agradeço
A poda de pessegueiros está no topo da lista dos vídeos a fazer sobre técnicas de poda para o próximo ano (assim a disponibilidade de tempo o permita).
What variety of peach did you show at the end, the red one, at 10:30?
Parabéns por mais este vídeo.
Nesta altura ainda se pode fazer este tipo de enxerto?
Depende da zona. É fundamental que a casca se separe bem e, nalgumas zonas (como no Norte do País) o frio começa a reduzir a circulação de seiva. Se a gema não se separar com facilidade ou se for difícil abrir as laterais do corte em T, o mais certo é que o enxerto falhe, pois pode já não chegar a soldar corretamente. Mas pode sempre tentar...
@@JSacadura a chuva e o frio acabam amanhã e as temperaturas voltam a subir, aqui no Minho. 27º já para dia 7, daqui a 2 dias. Acho que este outubro ainda irá dar para fazer este tipo de enxertos, certo?
Em princípio, sim. Principalmente se os porta-enxertos estiverem em vaso e poderem ser recolhidos (protegidos no interior) no caso de vir mais frio no espaço de tempo que levam os enxertos para pegar (em regra, cerca de 3 semanas). Para enxertos no exterior, começa a ser um pouco mais arriscado...
if the graft is successful in 2 or 3 weeks, do you have to break the petiole off?
Sir what is the best method for grafting jackfruit plant?
I have an established espalier apple tree, with1 or 2 foot long bare spots on the cordons, that I'd like to bud graft onto, to fill the branch out. You said after the graft takes, to always cut off all the the growth ahead of the graft, but that would mean cutting off my cordon. Would it be ok to just let the graft take and grow into a fruiting spur and not cut off the growth ahead of the graft? I want to do 2 or 3 on each of the 6 variety branches.
Thank you for your videos Sir. when would be the best season for T-Budding Peaches to Apricot?
Would this technique work for apple and kiwi trees in late summer or autumn
Hola ! Se puede aplicar esta tecnica de injerto en higueras? Por su respuesta gracias.
Si, también funciona en higueras. El primero vídeo en mi canal - ruclips.net/video/3ZD2fiGbWzo/видео.html - ejemplifica esta técnica. De cualquier forma prefiero las técnicas utilizadas en este vídeo más reciente - ruclips.net/video/NBV9OIfQlaY/видео.html